Great job man. I like your integrity and enjoy your content. I’ve found it’s a good practice to check behind the board if it’s suspect. That lizard created HIGH RESISTANCE in the board’s circuitry, causing the board to think the switch was open. High Resistance causes current and voltage to drop because they are proportional to each other. Crazy how little things that can cause chaos at times!
That's the sign of somebody who takes pride in their work. There is very few of us out here who will still do the right thing and will not stick it to the customer. Don't change young man don't change.
With parts we've all been there and done that. No worries! At least it was bad. Do you know what the temp rise was at the RTU? I'm suspecting that it is what took out the heat exchanger. Clean the evap them, if the temp rise is still high with a dry coil, drop the gas pressure below the standard 3.5 iwc or what ever the MFG is calling for. I came in after another company this week and the temp rise was 92° at the RTU. I took it down to 2 iwc to get the rise to 60° max rise was 75°. With the FP probes I drill a hole for the tip of the probe in the supply on the side discharge door, but not the return. I put the return probe all the way inside. If you drill a hole in the return it will suck air inside and effect the probe readings. I use metal high temperature tape to seal afterwards. My favorite tool for this is the Diablo DSD0500S06. It's small and goes right on your impact.
@AB_HVAC I haven't had a problem yet, but you could use a cheep thermometer if your worried. Measurement range -40 to 250 degrees. I do pop the door to make sure I'm not going to drill through the heat exchanger or have the hole directly agenst the heat exchanger. I like to use them because I can document with screen shots in Houscall Pro.
@HVACR559 gotcha. We use housecall pro so the screenshots i put in the videos are also going in there. I'll try drilling the holes next time I'm on a rheem
Those control boards are bad about the solder points on the back of the eight pin connector breaking/cracking. I replaced those boards a bunch of times for that exact same reason that you had.
The specifications on that dataplate state 40-70, I was st 60 about 2-3minutes before the system satisfied indoors. I agree it's dumping out A LOT of heat but it doesn't seem to be causing a problem right now. I'll notate it on the invoice though on our end so if we get sent back out we can check it
What is crazy is that companies making these boards do so;as if the board will be placed in a weather proof box. yet it’s installed where moisture, and even lizards have access to it. At least coat the board with some insulating paint.
The worst part would've been if the system kept working after removing the lizard i don't think the supply house would've let me take the board back because I broke the seal on the package of the board 🤣
Great job man. I like your integrity and enjoy your content. I’ve found it’s a good practice to check behind the board if it’s suspect. That lizard created HIGH RESISTANCE in the board’s circuitry, causing the board to think the switch was open. High Resistance causes current and voltage to drop because they are proportional to each other. Crazy how little things that can cause chaos at times!
Thanks for the video. Stay safe out there.
That's the sign of somebody who takes pride in their work.
There is very few of us out here who will still do the right thing and will not stick it to the customer.
Don't change young man don't change.
Thanks a lot 🙏🏽
you did the right thing and figured it out. bravo, sir!
Appreciate that ✊🏽 definitely was second guessing for a minute
With parts we've all been there and done that. No worries! At least it was bad.
Do you know what the temp rise was at the RTU? I'm suspecting that it is what took out the heat exchanger. Clean the evap them, if the temp rise is still high with a dry coil, drop the gas pressure below the standard 3.5 iwc or what ever the MFG is calling for.
I came in after another company this week and the temp rise was 92° at the RTU. I took it down to 2 iwc to get the rise to 60° max rise was 75°.
With the FP probes I drill a hole for the tip of the probe in the supply on the side discharge door, but not the return. I put the return probe all the way inside. If you drill a hole in the return it will suck air inside and effect the probe readings. I use metal high temperature tape to seal afterwards. My favorite tool for this is the Diablo DSD0500S06. It's small and goes right on your impact.
On the supply side, isn't the radiant heat of the heat exchanger right there going to affect my probe?
@AB_HVAC I haven't had a problem yet, but you could use a cheep thermometer if your worried. Measurement range -40 to 250 degrees. I do pop the door to make sure I'm not going to drill through the heat exchanger or have the hole directly agenst the heat exchanger. I like to use them because I can document with screen shots in Houscall Pro.
@HVACR559 gotcha. We use housecall pro so the screenshots i put in the videos are also going in there. I'll try drilling the holes next time I'm on a rheem
You did right my bro good job awesome content once again
🙏🏽 Thanks for the support
Great video!
Thanks for watching!
Those control boards are bad about the solder points on the back of the eight pin connector breaking/cracking. I replaced those boards a bunch of times for that exact same reason that you had.
I knew there was something wonky about these dang boards
Great video. Thank you for sharing
Good job !!!
Good work big bro
Thank you 🤟 😎
✊🏽
Don't beat yourself up too much bro I've been doing this for 25 years and I still run into crazy issues like that
Appreciate that 🙏🏽
🤘🔥
✊🏽
those needle probes have a bad case of rickets
Cut back on the gas pressure after coil cleaning to get temperature rise in specifications.
The specifications on that dataplate state 40-70, I was st 60 about 2-3minutes before the system satisfied indoors. I agree it's dumping out A LOT of heat but it doesn't seem to be causing a problem right now. I'll notate it on the invoice though on our end so if we get sent back out we can check it
I Would advise them to fix their duct issues because that most likely caused premature failure
What is crazy is that companies making these boards do so;as if the board will be placed in a weather proof box. yet it’s installed where moisture, and even lizards have access to it. At least coat the board with some insulating paint.
I mean I hear ya but that's almost the same as contactors, no matter who makes them I'm pretty sure ants are getting I'm them and messing them up 😅
Crusty Lizard trying to foil your repair and make you feel like a tool. 🤣 Actually, you did a great job with the fix given all those twists and turns!
The worst part would've been if the system kept working after removing the lizard i don't think the supply house would've let me take the board back because I broke the seal on the package of the board 🤣
@@AB_HVAC A little spray adhesive would bring that packaging back to new. Allegedly. 😁
@jkmarshall3553 🤣 allegedly
I'd blame it on the lizard also!!
I guess a lizard is 4 amps so he shorted out the board without blowing a 5 amp fuse.
🤣 I guess