Learned while employed at an engine shop, trust nothing even the fresh bore job for the engine you're rebuilding, measure it all. I never had an issue at the shop, but if I didn't measure things Murphys law said it would blow up in 10 seconds.
i learned the hard way too. check everything. not just engine parts. got a radiator from amazon. didnt check it, just put it in... no bueno i know... i know... amazon was my first mistake
Those catalogs were awesome! Roughly the same thickness as the big Sears seasonal catalogs and loaded with technical information about the parts sold. I always liked the names used for their engine kits too...Gorilla, Super Gorilla, I think there might even have been some called Godzilla.
Learned lesson on thermostats. When replacing one, drop it in a pot of boiling water to see if it opens. Got bit on the haunches on one 318 4V police package Diplomat during a road test. Two more failed the boiling pot test on other jobs. Nick of Nick's Garage channel lost a client's 327 from the same. Several manufacturers were used so they were just flukes from mass production. On my end, no other engines were harmed in the making of this advice. Mikel
I remember my first engine rebuild. This was back in the days of catalogs and phone calls. We didn’t even have fax machines. We certainly didn’t have FedEx or Amazon. It took weeks of research to decide what parts I wanted, then to call and make sure they’d all work together. Then you order, wait for the check to clear, and then finally ship. It was like Christmas when each order came in and waiting for that last important thing to arrive was torture. It sure seems easier today. Of course, my problem today would be budgeting everything. Sure it’s easy to search and research on the internet. And what good is overnight delivery if you can’t afford it and the credit card is full up to the limit? The struggle is real.
I remember all of that AND ordering parts C.O.D. (cash on delivery) because, when I did my first engine at age 15, I didn't have a checking account and, I certainly didn't have a credit card.
@@MikeBrown-ii3pt Exactly. I forgot all about COD. And having to get postal money orders because that’s all some vendors would trust. I remember my grandparents got a Mastercard and it made everything easier. It really was a very different world. A better one in many, many ways and worse in others.
When ordering parts online, it's a good idea to have 2nd window open to research the full specs of the part you're looking to order. The parts websites don't always have the full specs. VOE
The trick with Rock Auto is the shipping. Depending on the items, they can come from different warehouses making the shipping more expensive so changing the brand of parts can lead to coming from the same warehouse.
Yep, once you select all your parts you may have to dipsey doodle some of them and make different selections so that each part doesn’t ship from a different location
ever turn on the feature that says lowest cost or best shipping ? I have not, but you are right about watching where the parts ship from. And adding stuff changes that too.
What is nice is that they show you on the parts if it's coming from the same warehouse as the parts in your cart or not to make it easy to reduce the number of shipments and the time spent waiting on parts.
Making Rock Auto orders, watch where they are shipping from or you will end up with 5 shipping costs. You will save money getting them from one location, so check your list and maybe spend a dollar or two more on a part that moves it to the same warehouse as other parts. Then you get into receiving the wrong part. That's fun.
Sorry to be gloom & doom, but too often then comes the crash when they shipped the wrong parts, the parts have been opened/installed before, etc and you realize what a pita it's going to be to repack and ship stuff back.
THANKD FOR THE WORK YOU DO UNCLE TONY! Nice to have honest instruction that isnt influenced by sponsors, ads etc. Appreciate it, you are really helping us viewers
Im the buy local type as long as they dont rip you off. Like when my 60 foot walk Napa store is like my wharehouse. I need something. I walk there instead of filling my garage to much, unless i get a deal on anything, then i stock piles. But when i needed an alternator for my 66 pontiac and they priced it at 250$, i went online and got it for 80$. This is another excellent video. When you know what you need, you can shop different brands or stores. Compare prices and sometime wait less time then the local store when its back order. Ps. Sometime you get cheap or wrong parts and return is not as easy as walking back to store and swap it. Check the comments and return policies. If you need to pay to return, your not saving at all. Thanks UTG for sharing this content. Im sure some still are not familiar with shopping online and PayPal or giving there card numbers. Maybe consider using a prepaid card to be safe when your anxious about giving your credit card #. I actually shoped this morning for front struts and saved 40$ on partsavatar from rock auto. Deals changes everyday. Best community ever!
I also prefer to buy parts locally as long as there isn't a huge price difference. Electrical parts are the one thing that I flat refuse to buy online specifically because of the issues with online returns. If you're buying a starter, alternator or some sort of sensor, chances are you need it NOW and can't wait if you get the wrong one. On the note of stock replacement alternators and starters for older vehicles (like your Pontiac and my Square Body pickups), I don't get why they're so expensive these days. I assume it's because so many have been scrapped over the years rather than sent for "remanufacturing" but, with the prices they demand, I've taken to just buying new, high output alternators and high torque starters from Power Master and other manufacturers for roughly the same price.
The process of choosing and ordering parts is not ridiculous, and nothing to ignore. Especially in these modern times and the junk parts that are out there waiting to soak up your money.
@@paulcox2009 You’re right it’s not surprising to see that. Also not surprising to see those fail. Had 3 failures in the past couple of years. One out of the box, another went 14 miles , another 121 miles. That was 3 different vehicles.
While I use Rock Auto for some items I use them very little for internal engine parts. I have two very trusted eBay sellers where I can get NOS and OEM internal parts that were made in the US some years ago. With a Mercury 410 getting rebuilt right now and then a 3.0L Vulcan next I have been lucky. All bearings and rings,for the Vulcan, are Ford. The 410 got TRW, FM, and Mahle parts while lifters are NOS Ford. The only part that won't likely be from 10-20 years ago, in the original box or at all, is the cam assuming I replace it. Just had delivered a full set of lifters for my Mopar 360 today by Sealed Power US made. At $53 I thought was pretty good.
In this one I started watching it to see what you were going to do as far as the cam and lifters. You said yours were fine and you didn't need new ons and basically we were on our own. That is the biggest problem today and you just blew it off. Thanks !!!
I've been using Rock Auto for years and have generally been pleased with them. When I rebuild a Chevy small block I have used Northern Auto Parts(NAP) for over 20 years. Their engine rebuilding kits have been good deals but I haven't done an engine in 7 years. Good video. Good Luck, Rick
@@DarkLinkAD where I live, fedex is miles better than any other delivery method - always the same very friendly driver etc, she just automatically drops any parts directly into the back of my truck for me, they rock
Rock Auto can be a great source. It my go to for lots of builds, and been using them for years, with only one incorrect part being sent, and they fixed it quick.
I've used Rock Auto and Parts Geek several times. So far so good from both. I do still prefer to deal locally though if the price difference isn't extreme. That way, IF there's a problem, I can actually walk in and get it fixed.
UT, suggestion for another video in this series would be how to purchase precision tools, micrometers, calipers and such. It would be along the lines of hey, you can cheap out on harbor freight calipers but go for quality micrometers.
Maybe it's just from me running into high quality precision measuring tools for very cheap/free, but I would never cheap out for the harbor freight tools. The measurements from their calipers and mics aren't terrible, but the gripe I usually have is with the fit and finish. They just feel terrible to use, and sometimes that doesn't inspire confidence in the measurements either. An example would be the calipers being all sticky or crunchy sounding when moving. Their bore gauges also seem to wobble all over the place. I've had good luck over the years keeping my eyes open at estate sales and swap meets for good deals. My most recent score were some unused Brown & Sharpe mics for 5$ a pop, not even HF can beat that.
My first car engine build was '79 Toyota 20R Truck. I had credit at the local NAPA and they had a set of std-0.010 over rings?? Thinking that I honed the motor that much. I use ring groove cutter too. You could not drive the piston in the cylinder. A older wiser mechanic explained to me That these rings were for running a std piston in a 0.010 over bore cylinuder.I went got std rings, slid right down cylinder, I spun bearing 100,000 so my crank was turned 0.010/0.030. I love 100 octaine AV fuel, burns the plugs clean, high Rpms
I've ordered a lot of parts for my '71 318 rebuild from Rock Auto, but had a heck of a time determining origin on a lot of them; even visiting the manufacturer website they were cagey as heck about where the parts were made (which almost always means china...). It took several orders to get a complete set of Melling valves and pushrods because they never had 8 each in stock; similar problems getting new rocker arms and shafts, and valve retainers that weren't made in china of mystery metal. I picked up lifters (Johnson) and camshaft from Hughes Engines; I keep hearing that they are still properly made.
Thanks a million times over! I have a 360 that needs a rebuild and I want to do it myself. I'm comfortable with engine repair and maintenance, but I have never done an overhaul. I rebuilt the transmission a couple years ago without a hitch, so now I'm going to carefully dig into the engine. Again, thanks as this video series is just what I need.
I like Rock Auto and Summit Racing. (and sometimes Jeg's) Even though Rock Auto is usually cheaper, if they ship from more than one warehouse it can be more expensive than Summit as they have free shipping on orders over $100.
Yeah, that's what bugs me about so many online places. I actually placed an order with Summit last night and, since it's shipping from Nevada, it won't arrive for a few days. No big deal since I won't even be working on that particular engine for at least 2 weeks and, the shipping is free. The same order from some other online stores would've cost over $20 in shipping and, wouldn't have arrived any sooner. In my case, the best part about Summit and Jegs is that their main warehouses (Talmage and Columbus, OH) are both only a couple hours away from me. If I need something and, it ships from Ohio, I get it the next day and it's still free shipping. If I absolutely need it that day and, assuming it's in stock in Ohio, I can just fire up the truck and go pick it up.
@@MikeBrown-ii3pt I used to live an hour or so from Summit in Talmage. They were open 7 days a week, until 9pm IIRC. Saved me many times while working on a weekend if I had one of those surprises and need something fast to keep working. Plus a trip to their warehouse/showroom is always a bit of a treat.
@@chriskucia8348 The first time I went to Summit was back in 1987. They were still in Akron proper and the big store in Talmage was years away. I do enjoy visiting the showroom though.
It's always a good idea to get a new water pump, when rebuilding an engine.. if not it will go bad a few months down the road and you'll be replacing it. Always run coolant in the engine, just water will wear out the seals.
I'm 62 and to a pause from my first engine teardown to watch this series. My engine was caked in oil and I haven't found where it is leaking but discovered SAAB never used an oil pan gasket or a timing cover gasket or an oil filter gasket. I'm going to use anerobic gasket gel when I put it back together. So far I've done things as suggested. I've been trying to keep costs down so unless I find broken rings, I'm not going to sped the $75 on a new set. Ditto for any bearings.
. I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee and another 4.0 that was running but had a knock out of a parts vehicle, I would like to go through it, freshen it up or do a stroker, this video series is great! Looking forward to the next episode
My first i just went to napa got the rebuild kit, picked up the engine from the shop, checked notthing, bolted it togeter and went. Ive put 380,000 on it from the time i did that. I was lucky. Edit, tony you are using that chair wrong....
One more thing Tony...whether ordering online OR standing at the parts counter, always know exactly what you're ordering parts for. For example...just yesterday, I bought a junkyard 302 Ford that is currently in a 1990 F-150. The thing is, while I know for sure that it's a 302 (5.0L for the youngsters out there), the vehicle that it's in is now 33 years old. Who knows if the engine is original to that vehicle? Is it original, newer, older? What type of cam does it have? Etc, etc, etc. I bought the complete engine even though I won't be using certain parts but, until the yard gets it out of the truck and it's in my shop where I can check numbers and disassemble it, I won't be ordering anything EXCEPT (since I'll be switching from E.F.I. to a 4bbl) a Holley throttle lever extension and transmission kickdown stuff so that it'll work with the C-4 that I'll be using. The ONLY reason that I ordered those parts when I got home is because they were in stock and, actually already shipped this morning. I figured I'd get them since I know I'll need them and they're available right now (who knows if they'll be available in a month or so).
the crankshaft in my 1994 xj came from the factory with two different sizes on the rods, std and .001 under.the mains were .001 under. I had to buy mopar to get the thrust that size paid around $25. per bearing
@uncletony. Rock auto has a habit of shipping parts on the same order from different warehouses all over the place. And you get charged shipping from each warehouse. I did a complete brake replacement on my Pilot, rotors pads calipers master cylinder. Everything. The parts came from 3 warehouses and my shipping was almost 100 bucks. It will pay to make sure they are coming from the same warehouse if possible If that happens to you on this order maybe go over that when you do the unboxing. Have a good day
They give you a little truck icon next to all the parts that will ship from the same warehouse. I try to keep all the parts grouped to 1 or two warehouses to keep shipping cost down.
Saving for the edlebrock aluminum head for my 99 4.0 Cherokee should be last winter of walking in snow hopefully you use one loving the series will be my first time 😁
Might be good to give a summary, pistons, rings, connecting rod bearings, oil pump, water pump, etc. I missed the episode on cam, but I would have thought the same way, new cam. Yes it is my first engine build and I am well past 18.
For everything there is a first time; the 1st time ordering parts can be pretty daunting. This should help the person who's an absolute newb get thru a hard set of decisions... thanks for putting it up!
I've ben following this series though I haven't rebuilt an engine in decades. Back then we didn't any on- line resources. I had a chosen few auto parts stores I relied upon. I would drive past the newer chain stores to get any important part. I also preferred a few name brands, (Felpro, TRW. National, Standard/Blue Streak etc.) I wonder if you recommend using "plastiguage" even if you have calipers and dial indicators. As a rule of thumb we always changed the oil pumps and timing sets. Just be careful when choosing flowrates. (do you really need 75lbs of oil pressure at idle?) I'm a firm believer of "when in doubt, change her out." I used to always change lifters as cheap insurance. It's disturbing hearing about the bogus parts that are around now. My brother made the mistake of reusing the old lifters when he changed the cam on his LS5 rebuild. It resulted in a golf ball size hole in the block and a pushrod protruding through the rocker arm. So much for a "numbers matching block".
Had an AMC tech/shop instructor mention that 4.0 (6) & 2.5 (4) share bore & stroke dimensions, for production expediency.. good luck on build, been following series on this.
Ive ordered from rock auto 3 times and all 3 times I ended up with trash parts that didn't work out the box. I usually just deal with summit racing because at least when they send me trash they always take care of it super fast
Well you didn't do your homework then! YOU have to determine which one of the 15 different options sold by RockAuto is the good one (if any). I've been ordering parts for decades, and I still typically spend more time on the computer (forums, etc) researching what parts to order, than it actually takes to install them! Recently I ordered Moog suspension parts for my F350. RockAuto saved me hundreds of dollars - tie rod on RA was $75, but $175 at local store, for example. The same difference in price for the other suspension parts as well. And all Made in USA parts too, in this instance.
You have the option of buying garbage parts or quality parts on Rock Auto. I have ordered close to 1k orders from them. I may have had a handful of wrong or defective parts.
Rock auto takes returns pretty much hassle free. I returned a condenser because it hadn’t been machined and welded for the drier. They took the return and sent me another. The replacement had boogered drier tubes with cut o rings. Wholesale closeout is often older but better made parts.
@@raoulcruz4404 You have to be careful with the returns. Any part you "tried" to install, they won't take back. I tried some brake pads, they were so far off they would not fit in the brackets. Since I answered their online return info properly, they refused the return.
As others have already posted, that's why you don't buy "economy" grade parts, especially when buying online. With the exception of all new, polyurethane bushings, I bought everything I needed to completely rebuild the front suspension under my 1994 Ford Ranger from Rock Auto. Every part I bought from them was either Moog or TRW and everything fit and worked properly. The bushings came from Summit and are Energy Suspension brand. Edit: I didn't buy my new Radius Arms from Rock Auto either. They came from my local NAPA because, believe it or not, NAPA was $20 cheaper than anywhere else!
As I'm building this car and engine ,there's not 2 days that go by where I don't get a delivery at the house. Best delivery was the air ride suspension, like 8 boxes piled up in front of my door and I had to move them all to get inside. I've had a blast making my debit card glow. Of course,I've got the money set aside for this so it's not like it's making me broke. Try it ,you only live once it's fun spending boatloads of cash.
Mann this home builder guide is helping me so much build a 5.7 for my charger going all stock with agressive cam no turbo any information is good information I have it all tore down sitting on the stand. I still need lots information tho
I dont know if i would have gone with the cheapest head bolts, there are videos of people snapping cheap head bolts before they even reach proper torque! I know GM uses smaller bolts than Mopar, but its still sketchy even by my standards! Lol. Love the vids Uncle Tony!
Might have to start making this parts, like lifters at home. The machinery is becoming cheaper and cheaper, while the quality of at home production is more accessible.
Yo Uncle Tony, on Steve Mags's Nova video today, he holds up an advertisement for the '68 or '69 Nova SS 396, and I'll be damned if the ad description doesn't tout aluminum bearings!! It says: "Both Turbo Jet 396s feature four barrel carburetors, molybdenum inlaid piston rings, forged steel cranks, ALUMINUM BEARINGS, and alloy steel connecting rods." This is visible at 6:29 in that video.
This series comes at a perfect time. I’m attempting to replace my pistons in my 01 Cherokee while it’s still in the car. I was looking at rockauto for rod bearings and saw they have std and .001 undersize and was curious if the .001 are better for a used crank that won’t be machined what do you think?
Id like to get a late 80's early 90's Cherokee, 2wd, and swap in a 4200 vortec, maybe do some mini tubs, and a 5speed, 255-50-15 or 295-50-15 in the rear, 225-50 , maybe 225-60 in front, forged Pistons, better rods, port the heads a bit, turbo it, it should do 750 at the tire, with 93 and alot of methanol injection! Probably run a 10 gallon cell just for it, build a throttle position sensor, to control a pwm motor controller, to control a high pressure pump, with a low methanol warning light, and use water only for a limp home band-aid, and reduce boost, make a daily driver from it! Either that or a LV3 v6 in a blaster or S10, these are a 6cyl LS engine!! Id like to cut one to a v4 and put it on a Harley frame,. Some guys have made v2 SBC engines, a v4 even in a small car could be cool! A chevette or Vega with a turbo 4cyl LS v4, or a LV3 v6, they replaced the 4.3 engines used from the 80's, a 6cyl LT engine direct injection, the V8 intake and exhaust will fit with block off plates!😆 That's crazy! But cool they share so much and handle tons of boost, make tons of power,n just like the LS/LT engines!! The 4200 i6 engines have DOHC, with 4valves per cylinder, and the cam timing can be advanced and retarded, with a proper ECM, on the fly, making low end power, and top end HP, with boost, it really responds , it's like magic!!
My first large engine rebuild, was on the farm. Ol man, laughed at me when I mentioned crank bearings. He went in the back, pulled out an old leather belt. Cut it to fit. That tractor still runs today.
What will you do when the piston weight doesn't match the original weight? It's funny, I had a core plug that rusted through on my mustang about 30 years ago so I replaced just the one. None of the others have leaked since then.
Tony, I agree with about 98% of what you say and do with cars. But a $1.50 for a t stat? That’s scary unless it’s wholesale closeout. Some of those closeout items are vintage quality made from years ago and have just been sitting in a warehouse.
As an industrial chain supplier who deals with miles of chain every year, I strongly recommend to ALWAYS use new sprockets when you put on new chain...and vice versa. Old chain will quickly wear brand new sprockets to match the worn-out chain. Old sprockets will stretch new chain to match the old sprocket wear. I battle people all the time who are trying to save fifty cents by skipping half---and it always ends up costing them in the long run. Just don't.
Hey Mr Mopar, I was wondering if you might be able to tell me are do a video on removing lean burn on a 1985 slant 6 I have a 57' dodge pickup I'm putting in a 85' 225 slant 6 lean burn and I'd like to remove all and run points and the Holley 1904 1 brl carb any opinions are suggesting would be great thanks
Tony usually avoids the comments section. So I hope you or Tony don’t mind if I interject a comment. You might try looking this guy on the internet “ slant 6 Dan”.
I get the vast majority of my parts online. I can't stress enough the importance of a doing a little research especially if you're unfamiliar with the brand. For the guys just getting started a quick web search for the manufacturer and part number should at least let you know if you're risking being stuck roadside in a cloud of smoke and busted parts. You can find out specific details and if people have been burned by bad parts someone is always going to post about it.
The only thing I dislike about Rock Auto is that they charge separate shipping from every different warehouse they ship from. So if your order contains parts from warehouse A, B, and C, you have to pay shipping for each one. Other than that I think they are great.
What do you expect if you're ordering from different physical places?! It's awesome that you CAN get things direct from a zillion different warehouses, often right from the manufacturer's main distributions points!
@@GJM866 No, you are ordering through _one website_ who is simply acting as a broker, taking your order and forwarding it on to the appropriate stocking distributor. Having access to this huge range of wholesale distributors is a *godsend!* RockAuto doesn't warehouse things themselves, the simply _allow you_ as an individual to order from a bunch of distribution centres that even your local parts store probably doesn't have as wide ranging access to! If you don't like that, order from somewhere else, or your local shop and have THEM essentially arrange and pay the shipping and mark it all up appropriately. Or, order from somewhere like Summit that *_HAS_* a large warehouse to act as a distribution point (although even places like Summit don't actually always stock EVERYTHING directly in one place) where you're more likely to not have to play "pick the best parts combo" to minimize your shipping. You're simply being obtuse.
I usually group parts together to get the lowest shipping costs. Heavy items such as brake rotors are getting expensive in shipping though. The 5% discount they give offsets a great deal of the shipping cost, especially on large orders. $1k order, that's $50 discount.
I see you didn't order camshaft bearings. I don't remember you deciding these were good in a previous video. Did I miss something? If not, please address this in the next video. Thanks!
Also, it’s false what you are saying about “MODERN” Aluminum engine bearings. They do not distort! In fact most car manufacturers use bi-layer aluminum bearings in their engines because they are far more stronger.
Hey UT I have a couple of questions regarding adding boost to an engine I didn’t build that is currently naturally aspirated. It’s a 6.8L V-10 and basically I want to boost it to add economy to it as it seems the engine just operates very inefficiently. Would appreciate your thoughts on this and willing to give email or phone for direct response if you prefer.
Next in the series should be inspection and measurements of NEW parts. Something every first timer will overlook. 👍
Learned while employed at an engine shop, trust nothing even the fresh bore job for the engine you're rebuilding, measure it all.
I never had an issue at the shop, but if I didn't measure things Murphys law said it would blow up in 10 seconds.
Rule NO. 1 trust no MF!
i learned the hard way too. check everything. not just engine parts. got a radiator from amazon. didnt check it, just put it in... no bueno
i know... i know... amazon was my first mistake
WTTW. The pickup tube is a real treat to get into and out of the pump!
I miss the old P-A-W speed parts catalog. I built my first Mopar 360 back in the late 80’s with parts from them.
Those catalogs were awesome! Roughly the same thickness as the big Sears seasonal catalogs and loaded with technical information about the parts sold. I always liked the names used for their engine kits too...Gorilla, Super Gorilla, I think there might even have been some called Godzilla.
I built a 350 Olds, a 350 Chevy, and a 400 Ford (F or M? I don't remember, it wasn't mine) with parts from PAW. Good times.
Learned lesson on thermostats. When replacing one, drop it in a pot of boiling water to see if it opens. Got bit on the haunches on one 318 4V police package Diplomat during a road test. Two more failed the boiling pot test on other jobs. Nick of Nick's Garage channel lost a client's 327 from the same. Several manufacturers were used so they were just flukes from mass production. On my end, no other engines were harmed in the making of this advice.
Mikel
I remember my first engine rebuild. This was back in the days of catalogs and phone calls. We didn’t even have fax machines. We certainly didn’t have FedEx or Amazon. It took weeks of research to decide what parts I wanted, then to call and make sure they’d all work together. Then you order, wait for the check to clear, and then finally ship. It was like Christmas when each order came in and waiting for that last important thing to arrive was torture.
It sure seems easier today. Of course, my problem today would be budgeting everything. Sure it’s easy to search and research on the internet. And what good is overnight delivery if you can’t afford it and the credit card is full up to the limit? The struggle is real.
Also the last part to come is Always the the one you need to start (Murphys law) lol
That exactly what happens
I remember all of that AND ordering parts C.O.D. (cash on delivery) because, when I did my first engine at age 15, I didn't have a checking account and, I certainly didn't have a credit card.
I bet the quality of the parts exceeded todays cheap stuff as well
@@MikeBrown-ii3pt Exactly. I forgot all about COD. And having to get postal money orders because that’s all some vendors would trust. I remember my grandparents got a Mastercard and it made everything easier. It really was a very different world. A better one in many, many ways and worse in others.
When ordering parts online, it's a good idea to have 2nd window open to research the full specs of the part you're looking to order. The parts websites don't always have the full specs. VOE
Exactly. One extra window for the manufacturer's page. One for reviews.
The trick with Rock Auto is the shipping. Depending on the items, they can come from different warehouses making the shipping more expensive so changing the brand of parts can lead to coming from the same warehouse.
Yep, once you select all your parts you may have to dipsey doodle some of them and make different selections so that each part doesn’t ship from a different location
ever turn on the feature that says lowest cost or best shipping ? I have not, but you are right about watching where the parts ship from. And adding stuff changes that too.
What is nice is that they show you on the parts if it's coming from the same warehouse as the parts in your cart or not to make it easy to reduce the number of shipments and the time spent waiting on parts.
Making Rock Auto orders, watch where they are shipping from or you will end up with 5 shipping costs. You will save money getting them from one location, so check your list and maybe spend a dollar or two more on a part that moves it to the same warehouse as other parts. Then you get into receiving the wrong part. That's fun.
I love ordering online. I get excited waiting for them to come in, and opening up the boxes, feels like Christmas!!
Sorry to be gloom & doom, but too often then comes the crash when they shipped the wrong parts, the parts have been opened/installed before, etc and you realize what a pita it's going to be to repack and ship stuff back.
It's about 1/3 of the fun.
THANKD FOR THE WORK YOU DO UNCLE TONY! Nice to have honest instruction that isnt influenced by sponsors, ads etc. Appreciate it, you are really helping us viewers
Im the buy local type as long as they dont rip you off. Like when my 60 foot walk Napa store is like my wharehouse. I need something. I walk there instead of filling my garage to much, unless i get a deal on anything, then i stock piles. But when i needed an alternator for my 66 pontiac and they priced it at 250$, i went online and got it for 80$. This is another excellent video. When you know what you need, you can shop different brands or stores. Compare prices and sometime wait less time then the local store when its back order.
Ps. Sometime you get cheap or wrong parts and return is not as easy as walking back to store and swap it. Check the comments and return policies. If you need to pay to return, your not saving at all.
Thanks UTG for sharing this content. Im sure some still are not familiar with shopping online and PayPal or giving there card numbers. Maybe consider using a prepaid card to be safe when your anxious about giving your credit card #.
I actually shoped this morning for front struts and saved 40$ on partsavatar from rock auto.
Deals changes everyday.
Best community ever!
I also prefer to buy parts locally as long as there isn't a huge price difference. Electrical parts are the one thing that I flat refuse to buy online specifically because of the issues with online returns. If you're buying a starter, alternator or some sort of sensor, chances are you need it NOW and can't wait if you get the wrong one. On the note of stock replacement alternators and starters for older vehicles (like your Pontiac and my Square Body pickups), I don't get why they're so expensive these days. I assume it's because so many have been scrapped over the years rather than sent for "remanufacturing" but, with the prices they demand, I've taken to just buying new, high output alternators and high torque starters from Power Master and other manufacturers for roughly the same price.
The process of choosing and ordering parts is not ridiculous, and nothing to ignore. Especially in these modern times and the junk parts that are out there waiting to soak up your money.
He said “a $1.50” for a t stat. Unless it’s wholesale close out, that’s really scary.
@@raoulcruz4404 that’s not surprising to see one that cheap. They are around five to ten bucks at the local brick and mortar stores.
@@paulcox2009 You’re right it’s not surprising to see that. Also not surprising to see those fail. Had 3 failures in the past couple of years. One out of the box, another went 14 miles , another 121 miles. That was 3 different vehicles.
The drill is your friend.
@@raoulcruz4404 Those are rockauto prices, even brand name parts.
While I use Rock Auto for some items I use them very little for internal engine parts. I have two very trusted eBay sellers where I can get NOS and OEM internal parts that were made in the US some years ago. With a Mercury 410 getting rebuilt right now and then a 3.0L Vulcan next I have been lucky. All bearings and rings,for the Vulcan, are Ford. The 410 got TRW, FM, and Mahle parts while lifters are NOS Ford. The only part that won't likely be from 10-20 years ago, in the original box or at all, is the cam assuming I replace it. Just had delivered a full set of lifters for my Mopar 360 today by Sealed Power US made. At $53 I thought was pretty good.
That was *great* ! Practical, real-world advice. Accept no substitute
In this one I started watching it to see what you were going to do as far as the cam and lifters. You said yours were fine and you didn't need new ons and basically we were on our own. That is the biggest problem today and you just blew it off. Thanks !!!
I've been using Rock Auto for years and have generally been pleased with them. When I rebuild a Chevy small block I have used Northern Auto Parts(NAP) for over 20 years. Their engine rebuilding kits have been good deals but I haven't done an engine in 7 years. Good video. Good Luck, Rick
The shipping can be an issue, Fedex escpeciallly
Rock Auto can get expensive quickly, when it comes to shipping.
@@DarkLinkAD where I live, fedex is miles better than any other delivery method - always the same very friendly driver etc, she just automatically drops any parts directly into the back of my truck for me, they rock
@@kellismith4329 Mines all diversity hire and ANYTHING goes. Stealing packages, throwing them out the window and markin them delivered etc.
Rock Auto can be a great source. It my go to for lots of builds, and been using them for years, with only one incorrect part being sent, and they fixed it quick.
Parts geek sent me a bad part
Then I had to pay to send it back. Jerked me around about a refund for a month. Then kept my core.
I've used Rock Auto and Parts Geek several times. So far so good from both. I do still prefer to deal locally though if the price difference isn't extreme. That way, IF there's a problem, I can actually walk in and get it fixed.
UT, suggestion for another video in this series would be how to purchase precision tools, micrometers, calipers and such. It would be along the lines of hey, you can cheap out on harbor freight calipers but go for quality micrometers.
I wish I could do 100 thumbs up ! Please Tony!!!
Maybe it's just from me running into high quality precision measuring tools for very cheap/free, but I would never cheap out for the harbor freight tools.
The measurements from their calipers and mics aren't terrible, but the gripe I usually have is with the fit and finish. They just feel terrible to use, and sometimes that doesn't inspire confidence in the measurements either. An example would be the calipers being all sticky or crunchy sounding when moving. Their bore gauges also seem to wobble all over the place.
I've had good luck over the years keeping my eyes open at estate sales and swap meets for good deals. My most recent score were some unused Brown & Sharpe mics for 5$ a pop, not even HF can beat that.
My first car engine build was '79 Toyota 20R Truck. I had credit at the local NAPA and they had a set of std-0.010 over rings?? Thinking that I honed the motor that much. I use ring groove cutter too. You could not drive the piston in the cylinder. A older wiser mechanic explained to me That these rings were for running a std piston in a 0.010 over bore cylinuder.I went got std rings, slid right down cylinder, I spun bearing 100,000 so my crank was turned 0.010/0.030. I love 100 octaine AV fuel, burns the plugs clean, high
Rpms
Spotted an easter egg for the race date!
I've ordered a lot of parts for my '71 318 rebuild from Rock Auto, but had a heck of a time determining origin on a lot of them; even visiting the manufacturer website they were cagey as heck about where the parts were made (which almost always means china...). It took several orders to get a complete set of Melling valves and pushrods because they never had 8 each in stock; similar problems getting new rocker arms and shafts, and valve retainers that weren't made in china of mystery metal.
I picked up lifters (Johnson) and camshaft from Hughes Engines; I keep hearing that they are still properly made.
Thanks a million times over! I have a 360 that needs a rebuild and I want to do it myself. I'm comfortable with engine repair and maintenance, but I have never done an overhaul. I rebuilt the transmission a couple years ago without a hitch, so now I'm going to carefully dig into the engine. Again, thanks as this video series is just what I need.
How'd it go?
All your videos have value. Perfect series for those with initiative and not afraid to try. Most importantly, enjoy the process....
I liked it when there was J C Whitney one stop shop.
I KNEW IT! tony IS a time Traveller, this video was made in March 🛸👽
in 5 to 10 working days can you post something about how to do returns. thanks
I like Rock Auto and Summit Racing. (and sometimes Jeg's) Even though Rock Auto is usually cheaper, if they ship from more than one warehouse it can be more expensive than Summit as they have free shipping on orders over $100.
Yeah, that's what bugs me about so many online places. I actually placed an order with Summit last night and, since it's shipping from Nevada, it won't arrive for a few days. No big deal since I won't even be working on that particular engine for at least 2 weeks and, the shipping is free. The same order from some other online stores would've cost over $20 in shipping and, wouldn't have arrived any sooner. In my case, the best part about Summit and Jegs is that their main warehouses (Talmage and Columbus, OH) are both only a couple hours away from me. If I need something and, it ships from Ohio, I get it the next day and it's still free shipping. If I absolutely need it that day and, assuming it's in stock in Ohio, I can just fire up the truck and go pick it up.
@@MikeBrown-ii3pt I used to live an hour or so from Summit in Talmage. They were open 7 days a week, until 9pm IIRC. Saved me many times while working on a weekend if I had one of those surprises and need something fast to keep working. Plus a trip to their warehouse/showroom is always a bit of a treat.
@@chriskucia8348 The first time I went to Summit was back in 1987. They were still in Akron proper and the big store in Talmage was years away. I do enjoy visiting the showroom though.
My sons dart was built from your page using your info and mine.
Best part about rockauto is the magnets they usually throw in with orders
The last thing you'd want would be to have magnets anywhere near an oil pump or bearing shell
@@al_dente4777 They are too weak to be a problem. They barely hold the picture to the fridge.
@@al_dente4777 he's talking about fridge magnets lol. It's the size of a business card.
We’re talking about fridge magnets right?
Yeah, little flat magnets about the size of a business card
Ol'e Time J C Whitney, & fiquiring out "Shipping" method by the Weight, I got an education, also!
It's always a good idea to get a new water pump, when rebuilding an engine.. if not it will go bad a few months down the road and you'll be replacing it. Always run coolant in the engine, just water will wear out the seals.
I'm 62 and to a pause from my first engine teardown to watch this series. My engine was caked in oil and I haven't found where it is leaking but discovered SAAB never used an oil pan gasket or a timing cover gasket or an oil filter gasket. I'm going to use anerobic gasket gel when I put it back together. So far I've done things as suggested. I've been trying to keep costs down so unless I find broken rings, I'm not going to sped the $75 on a new set. Ditto for any bearings.
Rings should always be changed. That will give you perfect compression
@@naturalfizzsailingvideos Well I did spend the $80 on new rings for the very reason you point out. Thanks for that!
Thanks for all your videos. They’re awesome! I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience with us and you do it well.
. I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee and another 4.0 that was running but had a knock out of a parts vehicle, I would like to go through it, freshen it up or do a stroker, this video series is great! Looking forward to the next episode
My first i just went to napa got the rebuild kit, picked up the engine from the shop, checked notthing, bolted it togeter and went. Ive put 380,000 on it from the time i did that. I was lucky.
Edit, tony you are using that chair wrong....
He puts pistons in backwards too! Haha...
One more thing Tony...whether ordering online OR standing at the parts counter, always know exactly what you're ordering parts for.
For example...just yesterday, I bought a junkyard 302 Ford that is currently in a 1990 F-150. The thing is, while I know for sure that it's a 302 (5.0L for the youngsters out there), the vehicle that it's in is now 33 years old. Who knows if the engine is original to that vehicle? Is it original, newer, older? What type of cam does it have? Etc, etc, etc. I bought the complete engine even though I won't be using certain parts but, until the yard gets it out of the truck and it's in my shop where I can check numbers and disassemble it, I won't be ordering anything EXCEPT (since I'll be switching from E.F.I. to a 4bbl) a Holley throttle lever extension and transmission kickdown stuff so that it'll work with the C-4 that I'll be using. The ONLY reason that I ordered those parts when I got home is because they were in stock and, actually already shipped this morning. I figured I'd get them since I know I'll need them and they're available right now (who knows if they'll be available in a month or so).
Use a screen recorder program and wear a headset and you can show the screen and talk to it, will make the video more interesting.
the crankshaft in my 1994 xj came from the factory with two different sizes on the rods, std and .001 under.the mains were .001 under. I had to buy mopar to get the thrust that size paid around $25. per bearing
@uncletony.
Rock auto has a habit of shipping parts on the same order from different warehouses all over the place. And you get charged shipping from each warehouse.
I did a complete brake replacement on my Pilot, rotors pads calipers master cylinder. Everything. The parts came from 3 warehouses and my shipping was almost 100 bucks. It will pay to make sure they are coming from the same warehouse if possible
If that happens to you on this order maybe go over that when you do the unboxing.
Have a good day
They give you a little truck icon next to all the parts that will ship from the same warehouse. I try to keep all the parts grouped to 1 or two warehouses to keep shipping cost down.
Love you video following along as I'm doing my first build on 6.9 diesel
Saving for the edlebrock aluminum head for my 99 4.0 Cherokee should be last winter of walking in snow hopefully you use one loving the series will be my first time 😁
Ordering parts video... The precursor to the unboxing video!
Might be good to give a summary, pistons, rings, connecting rod bearings, oil pump, water pump, etc. I missed the episode on cam, but I would have thought the same way, new cam. Yes it is my first engine build and I am well past 18.
For everything there is a first time; the 1st time ordering parts can be pretty daunting. This should help the person who's an absolute newb get thru a hard set of decisions... thanks for putting it up!
Anytime ordering parts is daunting
I've ben following this series though I haven't rebuilt an engine in decades. Back then we didn't any on- line resources. I had a chosen few auto parts stores I relied upon. I would drive past the newer chain stores to get any important part.
I also preferred a few name brands, (Felpro, TRW. National, Standard/Blue Streak etc.) I wonder if you recommend using "plastiguage" even if you have calipers and dial indicators.
As a rule of thumb we always changed the oil pumps and timing sets. Just be careful when choosing flowrates. (do you really need 75lbs of oil pressure at idle?)
I'm a firm believer of "when in doubt, change her out." I used to always change lifters as cheap insurance. It's disturbing hearing about the bogus parts that are around now.
My brother made the mistake of reusing the old lifters when he changed the cam on his LS5 rebuild. It resulted in a golf ball size hole in the block and a pushrod protruding through the rocker arm. So much for a "numbers matching block".
Love you guys
Had an AMC tech/shop instructor mention that 4.0 (6) & 2.5 (4) share bore & stroke dimensions, for production expediency.. good luck on build, been following series on this.
Ive ordered from rock auto 3 times and all 3 times I ended up with trash parts that didn't work out the box. I usually just deal with summit racing because at least when they send me trash they always take care of it super fast
Well you didn't do your homework then! YOU have to determine which one of the 15 different options sold by RockAuto is the good one (if any). I've been ordering parts for decades, and I still typically spend more time on the computer (forums, etc) researching what parts to order, than it actually takes to install them!
Recently I ordered Moog suspension parts for my F350. RockAuto saved me hundreds of dollars - tie rod on RA was $75, but $175 at local store, for example. The same difference in price for the other suspension parts as well. And all Made in USA parts too, in this instance.
You have the option of buying garbage parts or quality parts on Rock Auto. I have ordered close to 1k orders from them. I may have had a handful of wrong or defective parts.
Rock auto takes returns pretty much hassle free. I returned a condenser because it hadn’t been machined and welded for the drier. They took the return and sent me another. The replacement had boogered drier tubes with cut o rings.
Wholesale closeout is often older but better made parts.
@@raoulcruz4404 You have to be careful with the returns. Any part you "tried" to install, they won't take back. I tried some brake pads, they were so far off they would not fit in the brackets. Since I answered their online return info properly, they refused the return.
As others have already posted, that's why you don't buy "economy" grade parts, especially when buying online. With the exception of all new, polyurethane bushings, I bought everything I needed to completely rebuild the front suspension under my 1994 Ford Ranger from Rock Auto. Every part I bought from them was either Moog or TRW and everything fit and worked properly. The bushings came from Summit and are Energy Suspension brand.
Edit: I didn't buy my new Radius Arms from Rock Auto either. They came from my local NAPA because, believe it or not, NAPA was $20 cheaper than anywhere else!
As I'm building this car and engine ,there's not 2 days that go by where I don't get a delivery at the house.
Best delivery was the air ride suspension, like 8 boxes piled up in front of my door and I had to move them all to get inside.
I've had a blast making my debit card glow.
Of course,I've got the money set aside for this so it's not like it's making me broke.
Try it ,you only live once it's fun spending boatloads of cash.
Mann this home builder guide is helping me so much build a 5.7 for my charger going all stock with agressive cam no turbo any information is good information I have it all tore down sitting on the stand. I still need lots information tho
I dont know if i would have gone with the cheapest head bolts, there are videos of people snapping cheap head bolts before they even reach proper torque! I know GM uses smaller bolts than Mopar, but its still sketchy even by my standards! Lol. Love the vids Uncle Tony!
Thanks so much for this video series mate! All the way from australia first engine rebuild, how can we donate to you?
l started measring my crank when l was 13.
It shrinks as you get older, drips oil ever.😂
That's pretty cheap, looking like a great build, can't wait, thanks for sharing, all the best to yous and your loved ones
clean-clean-clean,,,plastic gauge everything,,,just to be sure
4.0 run hot a 195 tstat is factory + they like to run at 210 all day. Its worth a few MPG to run a hotter tstat.
Good job tony. I remember buying my first cam from summit.
This particular video reminds me so much of the UTG format of 3 or so years ago 😆
Might have to start making this parts, like lifters at home. The machinery is becoming cheaper and cheaper, while the quality of at home production is more accessible.
I only use King bearings or those sold by Jegs under their house brand (they are King bearings!)
Uncle Tony, it's not March yet!
YOU'RE GOING TO GET AHEAD OF YOUURSELF!!!
Yo Uncle Tony, on Steve Mags's Nova video today, he holds up an advertisement for the '68 or '69 Nova SS 396, and I'll be damned if the ad description doesn't tout aluminum bearings!!
It says: "Both Turbo Jet 396s feature four barrel carburetors, molybdenum inlaid piston rings, forged steel cranks, ALUMINUM BEARINGS, and alloy steel connecting rods." This is visible at 6:29 in that video.
I love all his content.
Great information provided again, always good tips.
This series comes at a perfect time. I’m attempting to replace my pistons in my 01 Cherokee while it’s still in the car. I was looking at rockauto for rod bearings and saw they have std and .001 undersize and was curious if the .001 are better for a used crank that won’t be machined what do you think?
Crown automotive
Has everything for jeep
Id like to get a late 80's early 90's Cherokee, 2wd, and swap in a 4200 vortec, maybe do some mini tubs, and a 5speed, 255-50-15 or 295-50-15 in the rear, 225-50 , maybe 225-60 in front, forged Pistons, better rods, port the heads a bit, turbo it, it should do 750 at the tire, with 93 and alot of methanol injection! Probably run a 10 gallon cell just for it, build a throttle position sensor, to control a pwm motor controller, to control a high pressure pump, with a low methanol warning light, and use water only for a limp home band-aid, and reduce boost, make a daily driver from it! Either that or a LV3 v6 in a blaster or S10, these are a 6cyl LS engine!! Id like to cut one to a v4 and put it on a Harley frame,. Some guys have made v2 SBC engines, a v4 even in a small car could be cool! A chevette or Vega with a turbo 4cyl LS v4, or a LV3 v6, they replaced the 4.3 engines used from the 80's, a 6cyl LT engine direct injection, the V8 intake and exhaust will fit with block off plates!😆 That's crazy! But cool they share so much and handle tons of boost, make tons of power,n just like the LS/LT engines!!
The 4200 i6 engines have DOHC, with 4valves per cylinder, and the cam timing can be advanced and retarded, with a proper ECM, on the fly, making low end power, and top end HP, with boost, it really responds , it's like magic!!
Sneaking 3/25 update on Casper info in the video 👀
I see Casper over there on the 25th of March.
My first large engine rebuild, was on the farm. Ol man, laughed at me when I mentioned crank bearings. He went in the back, pulled out an old leather belt. Cut it to fit. That tractor still runs today.
Tony check your application of t stat computer may be set up for a 195 and have trouble going into closed loop.
Thank you Sir
Should look into some screen recording software like Open Broadcasting Software (OBS)
What will you do when the piston weight doesn't match the original weight?
It's funny, I had a core plug that rusted through on my mustang about 30 years ago so I replaced just the one. None of the others have leaked since then.
Just asking how much a typical cam swap should cost. All the videos on now are cam plus headers and chrome valve covers intake etc.
If you have the aluminum body oil pump it's best to replace it with the earlier cast iron pump.
Idea for a vid, exhausts, drag, race, crossover pipes ect
This 67 year old "kid" appreciates all these videos.
Tony, I agree with about 98% of what you say and do with cars. But a $1.50 for a t stat? That’s scary unless it’s wholesale closeout. Some of those closeout items are vintage quality made from years ago and have just been sitting in a warehouse.
As an industrial chain supplier who deals with miles of chain every year, I strongly recommend to ALWAYS use new sprockets when you put on new chain...and vice versa. Old chain will quickly wear brand new sprockets to match the worn-out chain. Old sprockets will stretch new chain to match the old sprocket wear. I battle people all the time who are trying to save fifty cents by skipping half---and it always ends up costing them in the long run. Just don't.
Rock Auto is all about the shipping...
Where's your collection of RockAuto fridge magnets? Mine is literally everywhere around my shop.
Good morning to you Uncle Tony I hope that you have a great afternoon.
As a hoser from north of border, $1.50 for a termostat is bonkers! (I heard that right, right?!)
I just bought a 180 for my 67 Camaro in Southern Ontario, it was 21 bucks plus tax.😳
You heard right.
Hey Mr Mopar, I was wondering if you might be able to tell me are do a video on removing lean burn on a 1985 slant 6 I have a 57' dodge pickup I'm putting in a 85' 225 slant 6 lean burn and I'd like to remove all and run points and the Holley 1904 1 brl carb any opinions are suggesting would be great thanks
Tony usually avoids the comments section. So I hope you or Tony don’t mind if I interject a comment. You might try looking this guy on the internet “ slant 6 Dan”.
I get the vast majority of my parts online. I can't stress enough the importance of a doing a little research especially if you're unfamiliar with the brand. For the guys just getting started a quick web search for the manufacturer and part number should at least let you know if you're risking being stuck roadside in a cloud of smoke and busted parts. You can find out specific details and if people have been burned by bad parts someone is always going to post about it.
I definitely got something out of that
The only thing I dislike about Rock Auto is that they charge separate shipping from every different warehouse they ship from. So if your order contains parts from warehouse A, B, and C, you have to pay shipping for each one. Other than that I think they are great.
What do you expect if you're ordering from different physical places?!
It's awesome that you CAN get things direct from a zillion different warehouses, often right from the manufacturer's main distributions points!
@@drussell_ I am not ordering from different physical places, I am ordering from ONE place, Rock Auto.....
@@GJM866 No, you are ordering through _one website_ who is simply acting as a broker, taking your order and forwarding it on to the appropriate stocking distributor. Having access to this huge range of wholesale distributors is a *godsend!*
RockAuto doesn't warehouse things themselves, the simply _allow you_ as an individual to order from a bunch of distribution centres that even your local parts store probably doesn't have as wide ranging access to!
If you don't like that, order from somewhere else, or your local shop and have THEM essentially arrange and pay the shipping and mark it all up appropriately. Or, order from somewhere like Summit that *_HAS_* a large warehouse to act as a distribution point (although even places like Summit don't actually always stock EVERYTHING directly in one place) where you're more likely to not have to play "pick the best parts combo" to minimize your shipping.
You're simply being obtuse.
I usually group parts together to get the lowest shipping costs. Heavy items such as brake rotors are getting expensive in shipping though. The 5% discount they give offsets a great deal of the shipping cost, especially on large orders. $1k order, that's $50 discount.
If you have an old water pump in your hand, don't put it back on : )
Replace with all the hoses.
If you were doing something very common (SBC etc) and could buy a compete rebuild kit from Summit or the like, would you?
March 25th, casper… hmm. Easter egg on a race?
casper vs Bottle rocket is on the 25th of march? 😁
I said the same about aluminum bearings. Why do they even exist is the first place. This shouldn't even be an option.
I see you didn't order camshaft bearings. I don't remember you deciding these were good in a previous video. Did I miss something? If not, please address this in the next video. Thanks!
He is not replacing the camshaft and lifters. The block wasn't hot tanked, so the existing cam bearings will be fine.
@@RaysLaughsAndLyrics Got it! Thanks!
Also, it’s false what you are saying about “MODERN” Aluminum engine bearings. They do not distort! In fact most car manufacturers use bi-layer aluminum bearings in their engines because they are far more stronger.
Step one…sit in your chair backwards…! Lol
Casper on the 25th?
Where are all your Rock Auto magnets?
March 25 casper???? 😁😁😁😁😁
Hey UT I have a couple of questions regarding adding boost to an engine I didn’t build that is currently naturally aspirated. It’s a 6.8L V-10 and basically I want to boost it to add economy to it as it seems the engine just operates very inefficiently. Would appreciate your thoughts on this and willing to give email or phone for direct response if you prefer.