A couple weeks ago we did a tech video on cooling off performance cars. Sunnie had a car running 260. The changes made to the car dropped it to 190 during the main. Changes: switching from a reduction pulley to 1-1 Changing to distilled water Removed the restrictor. Switched to a 4 blade fan Moved the fan 2 inches closer to radiator. Removed pump and radiator coated with sediment from not using distilled water. Backed timing off from 34 to 32. No noticeable loss in power. Hopefully this information will help some of you that may be dealing with heat issues.
Some good cooling tips. Definitely recommend getring a piston stop and adjustable timing pointer for finding true tdc. From what ive noticed most sbc like roughly 34-36, more on low performance, and as you get into better engines with more compression that may be closer to 28-32. At ~ 4100ft I run my iron vortec 2bbl 383 at 36°(200psi limmit rule) but I do run 100 octane.
I think the short version is...don't put a drag racing underdrive setup on anything but a drag car. Does number of passes in a radiator matter? Depends on gpm output of water pump - more volume probably needs more passes to prevent reduction of heat exchange time.
You clearly dont own a water softener. If you did know you use salt to filter it. Not sure what part of an engine the salt is good for? The supid shit like this I see people claim is endless.
Not sure why. I've notest that some electronic components for cars in the directions. Say to use certain types of timing lights some of which are from the early 60's what's up with that
I knkw this is an old video so not sure if you will see this, but what shroud is that? Im running into the same issues and trying to find a shroud just like that
I would do 40 below. I've used water wetter and it works but I've heard a lot of people swear by 40 below for extreme temp reduction. I would also think about using a 4-blade fan.
@@btuff We changed pulleys to 1:1 and it seems to have helped a ton in our situation from what happened at practice. We always run distilled and have fan as close as possible. We'll see how race #1 goes :)
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A couple weeks ago we did a tech video on cooling off performance cars. Sunnie had a car running 260. The changes made to the car dropped it to 190 during the main.
Changes: switching from a reduction pulley to 1-1
Changing to distilled water
Removed the restrictor.
Switched to a 4 blade fan
Moved the fan 2 inches closer to radiator.
Removed pump and radiator coated with sediment from not using distilled water.
Backed timing off from 34 to 32. No noticeable loss in power.
Hopefully this information will help some of you that may be dealing with heat issues.
Some good cooling tips.
Definitely recommend getring a piston stop and adjustable timing pointer for finding true tdc.
From what ive noticed most sbc like roughly 34-36, more on low performance, and as you get into better engines with more compression that may be closer to 28-32.
At ~ 4100ft I run my iron vortec 2bbl 383 at 36°(200psi limmit rule) but I do run 100 octane.
An old dirt track racer also told me to distilled water with fabric softener in my built atv and that seemed to work also
I think the short version is...don't put a drag racing underdrive setup on anything but a drag car. Does number of passes in a radiator matter? Depends on gpm output of water pump - more volume probably needs more passes to prevent reduction of heat exchange time.
Drilling 4 3/16 holes in thermostat fixes running hot also. We do it on turbo street / strip BB cars to keep them at 170 .
I heard the distilled water is bad for the aluminum. You should use softened water not straight tap.
Opposite. You can pull distilled water out after racing it and it looks like new water. Stray voltage is bad for aluminum.
@@btuff Softened water is adding minerals to the water, I agree that is a horrible Idea.
You clearly dont own a water softener. If you did know you use salt to filter it. Not sure what part of an engine the salt is good for? The supid shit like this I see people claim is endless.
Not sure why. I've notest that some electronic components for cars in the directions. Say to use certain types of timing lights some of which are from the early 60's what's up with that
I had a 18 nylon fan about 3/4 of an inch from my triple pass radiator, and I ran 190 degrees.
I knkw this is an old video so not sure if you will see this, but what shroud is that? Im running into the same issues and trying to find a shroud just like that
You don’t want to use distilled you want to use DEIONIZED water.
Distilled is still better than tap or spring water. Less minerals. We buy distilled to run thru our EDM de-ionizers.
Distilled has the minerals removed and thats what the buildup is. So, no you"re wrong.
Great video. What are your thoughts on running products like WaterWetter?
I would do 40 below. I've used water wetter and it works but I've heard a lot of people swear by 40 below for extreme temp reduction. I would also think about using a 4-blade fan.
Water Wetter = Gimmick.
How did you not know to use distilled water?
Good Video!
What do you think about restrictors on a single pass? Is it a must? We are having an issue with overheating and are getting stuck.
Are you missing any of this:
Distilled water
40 below
1-1 pully?
You will probably need a restrictor with a single pass.
@@btuff We changed pulleys to 1:1 and it seems to have helped a ton in our situation from what happened at practice. We always run distilled and have fan as close as possible.
We'll see how race #1 goes :)
Do the rules allow you to run an electric water pump, electric fan?
no. On dirt you wouldn't want that. Too much mud flying around
Your shroud would work better if it was deeper.
The faster the coolant flows the greater the transfer from the coolant to the surface its on
I hear the opposite
@@jakefriesenjake
Yup, it'll flow so fast it doesn't have time to "grab" the heat , but the cold number on your temp gauge is fooling you.
living in Missouri i know what hard water can do to the inside of an engine. c'mon it's less than 5 buck to use distilled water.
Liquid nitrogen air conditioning system