I appreciate how mellow you are, it made me feel a lot more relaxed about having a go at fixing this problem myself. Great presentation and very informative.
Hi. I live in tropical country. I have sometime (not always) problem with overheating of engine when in traffic or in stand still. This happen like around 10 time in a year. Some information as follows: - the car is Isuzu Alterra diesel engine with clutch fan - the radiator cap is ok - radiator unit is new (i use the original radiator) - radiator level is ok. - no radiator leak. I never top off the radiator fluid. - i use fully coolant fluid - no plastic blocking the front of the radiator - air condition fan unit is working (it switch on and off) - when no engine over heat, the air con give cool air - air con evaporator unit is clean (new cabin filter) - clutch fan seem to work because i check the RPM (with non contact rpm tester/tachometer). The tachometer RPM at tester unit show same as the RPM at the car Gauge tachometer. Clutch fan is not easy to rotate when engine is at operating temperature. Clutch fan spin more freely when engine temp is cool. When engine overheat, the aircon blow hot air as well One time, when engine overheat, i switch OFF the air-con unit, slowly the engine temperature go down to normal engine temperature. May i ask for your recommendation why my car sometime overheat when in traffic.
oh and btw i love how you explained the whole coolant system and i love that you speak clear english too, and not too fast. this is a great vid and i am going to save it so i can actually go thru each step to figure out what is wrong with my truck and why it's overheating. watching ur vid make me(YES A WOMAN) confident i will find what the problem is then get it fixed. so thanks so nuch and yes i have subscribed to your channel!!! thanks: yvonne k. tennessee
Great video, You certainly cannot cover every possible issue but you covered 95% of them. Like your systematic explanation. I could used this as a learning tool to teach my kids about how engines work. Can you do one on brakes and oil pressure next? Hats off you. Thanks
Hey Man thanks a lot for the video, it helped me figure out my stupid mistake. I have a 01 Intrepid rt 3.5, and it kept overheating after i tried to fix a mess with the fan wires. I had one of the fans pushing air instead of extracting it, I never would have thought to look at the direction they were blowing. All fixed now. Guy i bought it from thought it was the water pump, but he just didnt have things connected correctly. The reservoir tank was connected wrong too. Saved myself a few hundred dollars at the shop and future headaches thanks to this video!!!
When flushing the system , I recommend also reverse flushing . Especially the heater core . I have had heaters that were only warm come back to life with a reverse flush - directly on the core . Deposits build up over time and cut down on the heat . Also on the radiators , the tubes can get restricted . You can use a laser thermometer to check ALL the tubes . They are usually colder in the middle of the radiator if clogged . You can also put your hand on the tubes to check for cold areas - if you can get it in there . BUT you don't want your hand near an electric fan , even when not running . If hot , they can still turn on with the ignition off .
So my radiator is at 175 all around but in the center it’s cool. I can touch it. I thought it was because the clutch fan was pulling in air the most right there. I checked it right after taking the upper fan shroud off then I could stick my hand and a lazer thermometer everywhere with out the clutch fan in the way
@@Phuq_it I would think if the tubes are cold in the center of the radiator , it's because they are clogged and not allowing hot coolant to get through them . It will cut down on the ability of the radiator to get rid of the heat . I would replace the radiator . Also check the thermostat and circulation from the water pump . A reverse flush of the entire system, including the heater core , will bring everything back to full potential . You are working on a complete cooling system . Don't just slam a radiator in without doing a complete job . Don't forget to check the cooling fans . And don't run straight water .
@@billsmith2212 I just had my 454 dually redone. I changed everything to stock. Someone had an idea for a show truck but on a really tight budget. I decided to pull everything out and redo it from stock. Only thing is I can’t keep it from overheating after the outside temperature gets above 100. I even spent 1200 on a new ac. Once it gets 230 I turn heat on and sweat it out. It’s all factory now. Even the old engine did the same thing
@@billsmith2212 I just got off the phone with the builder and he said the center is going to be cold because that’s where the fan clutch pulls the most. The coolant sensor and thermostat is what he said to look at. Those thermostat’s are junk now and they see alot of them failing in the last 5 years
@@Phuq_it If the center is cold , the tubes are blocked . Because you are in an extremely hot area , you may want to upgrade to an oversized radiator and cooling fans with more CFM . There may also be a water pump with more flow . But if the coolant moves too fast , it may not allow it to give up the heat when going through the radiator . However , the larger radiator may balance that out . Look into radiator shrouds and air dams that direct the air flow . I would think there are shops that specialize in cooling systems , especially in Arizona . A specialist may have a complete system to get the temperature down . I would start with that blocked radiator core .
Man let me tell you sometime you what you are talkin about appreciate you people that watching video he knows what he is talking about again thank you young man thank you thank you thank you I will share this video with anybody that has a problem with their cooling system thank you thank you thank you thank you stay safe and again I appreciate you young man
when i got my xj the blades on my auxiliary fan (the electic one) where gone . i went and got a new one , installed it and wired to a toggle switch . greatest choice ive ever made . for the most part i can control my engine temp :)
The clutch fan on my '88 Cherokee didn't budge with the engine off. It still spun when the engine was running, but the clutch was seized. I found a couple of fans at a junkyard that still spun freely and swapped out the original for one of the junkyard fans. Had to pull the radiator, but got it done.
Jeep Cheorkee 2000. 140K Miles. rusted out radiator (too much water) March. replaced with new one, thermostat and engine flush - fan shroud broke, did not replace. Worked fine through NorCal, OR, WA, ID, UT, NV, AZ - 2000miles. Overheated once in MT. Split upper radiator hose. Replaced. Once back in SoCal, overheated. Lower hose replaced. Ran fine for 3 weeks. Then, began overheating on slight grade, or after running for 20m driving. Could let it sit for 90m at idle with AC on full, nothing. Drive it up a grade, or for 20m overheat. One too many times and Cracked head between Cylinders 3/4. Replaced head. New fan, water pump. radiator cap. Still overheats on grade or after 15m. Had Firestone do cooling systems check. Passed block test, another radiator cap and tightened hose clamps. Said it was good to go. Still overheats on grade. I've had five Cheorkees - still have two - and get 200K miles + out of each. Any ideas?
Hey just went through a night mare for a weird over heating problem in my 2010 Jeep Liberty found out after a thermostat then water pump then radiator and five days later found out that the thermostats from part stores will not work in this vehicular you have to get them from car dealer because rectory thermostats are specials ; my car would over heat as I got up to speed of 65 if I stayed at 55 or slower it would not over heat this is just info if your out there having problems like this yes it was a feascail but it runs awesome now
that sounds right about the relay, I'm not sure which on it would be but just start sapping relays until it works then you'll know. Sorry I don't know much about electrical but you might want to ask the question on your favorite jeep forum and see if someone there has an answer for you.
Hey Matt, I've watched this video several times and changed out pretty much the whole cooling system in a 99 XJ. New pump, thermostat, cap, rad is less than 2 years old and the hoses look good and fairly new. I've also flushed several times. I thought it may be the "spring" in the lower hose so I changed out the lower hose and sure enough, no spring. I've been to several local auto parts stores but they don't have any with springs. So I used a new one hose from Autozone. It does seem more stiff than the old one, but she's still overheating and after running, antifreeze upchucks out of the reservoir. Does this sound like the lower hose is collapsing and if so, where do I get a spring? Thank you for all your videos, I watch them all the time:)
robpossible I've read about this and apparently only the Factory hoses had springs and they were for filling the system with antifreeze quickly on the assembly line and were not needed after that. Another theory, modern hoses are stiff enough they don't need springs anymore.
Replacement of the viscous clutch on the mechanical fan will suck volumes of cooling air through the radiator,replace it,if you have overheating problems,as there is really no way of telling if it is working correctly ..Replacement of the viscous clutch can make a major difference to the running of your jeep, never overlook or pass the replacement of the viscous clutch by.
They are both separated in different tubes. just like the oil and coolant both go into the engine but they are in different compartments and dont mix. The radiator cools the tranny just fine on stock applications but some people choose to add on another in line external cooler for performance applications, lets day for towing, racing, hillclimbing, etc.
forgot two very common causes: 1. cracked head, block, or head gasket, 2. plugged radiator. Also, sometimes the water pump impeller will erode away or just spin on the shaft without its bearings going bad so you need to discuss a way to test its actual flow.
Good video. I am a full time autotech. It is rare, but I have seen water pump impeller's seperate from the mainshaft. It won't leak or wobble, but it will not move water. It is common on VW engines with plastic impellar, but I have also seen it on chevy's. Also air in the system can cause overheating. Honda civic's with the heater core up higher that the radiator cap are bad about this. I use a special funnel to bleed out the air. Keep up the good work.
+Mike Meegan - Sorry but if the " Radiator Cap " is " NOT OPENING ", then the " RESERVOIR " would " OVERFLOW " first. I agree with " BleepinJeep ". If the " Upper Hose " is bulging. 3- Things you check. #1. The Radiator Clogged. #2. Internal Clogged (Engine Block Passage). #3. The Thermostat is NOT opening correctly.
Awesome vid. replaced my water pump and lost a lot of coolant. Put more coolant but Car was overheating. Did your "burp" method and all is well. Thought for a second that i received a bad water pump from auto parts store. MANY MANY THANKS!!!
NO, do NOT put mayonnaise in your car's cooling system!! It will cause damage and does not have the proper viscosity that your car's recommended coolant needs to have. Not to mention mayonnaise will freeze in winter conditions, and does a poor job at cooling your car!!! Do not listen to this guy trust me, mayonnaise is not a good idea for putting in your car's cooling system, it's a common urban myth that it can work!!!
that really depends on if you are offroading it or not and how you drive. Offroad I would say 33's for the dana35, 34's for the 8.25, 33's for the dana30 and 36's for the dana 30 with chromoly.
The issue I'm having is that the car only over heats when I turn the ac on. The ac works' but the car over heats if it's kept on. If I don't use ac the car run just fine. Can you please help?
Great steps thanks. I'm a shade tree but start panicking & thinking the worst moving down from there. usually buying replacing parts I didn't need too sweat and replace. Nice to have a mellow guy go through steps I already know, slow me down, think. B.T.W. my wife loved it. She cant change flashlight batteries, but understood every word. Finally!!! she wont blow another head gasket Grrrr. I too stressed the importance of always wearing eye protection while working, thanks Jason. Phoenix , AZ july 2016 114 degrees today.
I have a 2003 honda 140k that's been always overheats, I pour coolant into it and it's fine with highway driving it's not until I stop or idle that the temp gauge begins to climb. Around the time I stop/idle after driving the a/c will change from blowing hot air to blowing cold air. After it overheats I'll pull it off to the side and check the components the overflow tank looks to have spitted out all the antifreeze towards the bottom and some on the air intake. I've had a new thermostat installed, fans checked/electricals, new radiator was installed. I thought it was a bad head gasket but there is no white pummels of smoke or a milky dipstick and I had a mechanic do a chemical test and it came back negative. What might be wrong? Thank you
i had the same issue a while back and it was the clutch fan. sometimes they aren't bad but just aren't as good as they should be. try putting a new clutch on there and see if that fixes the problem.
the oil pump screen or oil filter.the aintfrezze is new fans good every thing good with fluid new caps temp gauge good readyater. .could be the head gasket the motor gets hot nothing else the oil red hot .
"Harmonic Balancer" I recently learned the inner rubber membrane can break down and cause the water pump to not circulate water fast enough. To check this, see if the outside of the Harmonic Balancer turns at the same rate of speed as the center of the Harmonic Balancer bolted to the Crankshaft. Yes, it will separate and damage the radiator.
could be a ton of things but I would check that you don't have a clogged radiator first, that you didn't install the thermostat backwards, and that the spring in the lower radiator hose is still there (if it is suppose to have one).
I know there are some writeups on it out there, not sure about videos. But if you wait a few months I might have one as my new cherokee still has the closed system.
I just found out a clogged or bad fuel filter can cause also cause a car to overheat traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?188533-Fuel-Filter-overheating-problem
Man, your laid-back style is the best. I have an 04 Cherokee 4.0L 6 cylinder 2 wd. It has been running hot. It took about 2 hours to get it home one night because it would drive only so far and then get too hot to start. After it cooled to less than half of its max hotline on the gauge I would take off again and drive as far as possible and that cycle repeated until I finally arrived home. I stopped and pour 5 small bottles of water into the coolant reservoir. That made no difference. It's in my garage as I write you. Your video certainly widened my perspective on what the problem could be. My mechanic was to come by and check it out Friday but never showed or called me (typical). The radiator or engine cooling fan does not spin when the engine is off and I attempt to turn it manually. It may be out. Or, the resistor as you taught could be shot. Do you know any mechanics in Memphis? If so, give me their name and number. Thanks. I subscribed and clicked the like button.
dude,thanks for this info.was most informative.have a jeep cherokee 12 years.has always run warm or hot.head cracks/gasket etc. will check these things you mentioned.
I just watched the video. Great info. But maybe you should mention that after doing all nine steps if still haven't resolved the problem, to check for oil in the water or water in the oil for a bad head gasket.
You covered more then anyone so far👍 although one guy out there talks about factory clamps and how to check for a weak hose. Thanks a bunch friend. Now I have a lot of work to do.
Really good work, liked it a lot. My car had a Thermostat Problem and after replacing with new one all is working fine :). Thanks a lot and wish you the best.
Thank YOU! An alternate way to check the fan clutch! The book says when it's hot it should be harder to move, but as you say- it's practically impossible to check that way- my old one failed that test but so did the NEW one I bought- so is it bad? I doubt it; your "coasting" method sounds much better. I was about to drill a hole it the old one and pin it, but now I'll check it your way. I don't have anyone to help, but I can rig up my LizardCam so I can see it from the driver's seat if I can't shut it off from outside the cab...EDIT: Just checked it that way, and it coasted for about 1/2 sec. Thanks again!
Can a cooling system flush really solve an overheating engine issue?My Ranger 3.0 was overheating.The coolant was replaced and this seems to have fixed the problem.No other problem was found.Thanks and you have a new subscriber!
well there are two types of cooling systems, open and closed. If your overflow bottle is sealed like a pressure vessel then it is a closed system and you need a new bottle. Most modern cars have open systems though and the overflow bottle has a vent and does not contain pressure. if that is your case then there is a problem elsewhere which is just venting the coolant out the reservoir which it is suppose to do when there is a problem.
Mine is perfect stock system with high flow pump and still overheats. Az summers 35’s 4:88 won tons and loaded up with strong tuned up 4.0 is too much for it so had to install a large trans cooler which works wonders! I now think the leading cause of overheating cherokees may be this exact thing. rad fan shrouds super important and removing stock skid plate that creates vacuum on backside of rad is a bad thing but we all must do it for a multitude of reasons.
91 jeep yj. Changed rad, tstat, water pump, hoses...it's still running hot. Not the 210 it used too. Only thing left if the fan clutch? Fan seems to be working fine. It's running around the 230 range not matter if it's hot or cold outside. 4.0, 295 tstat. Thanks
excellent video one thing I am curious about is when you mentioned transmission fluid flowing thru your radiator. I am little confused if that is the cases then how do these fluids not mix together i.e the transmission fluided and the coolant/antifreeze fluided? And do you have any video as good as this one for the air conditioning / car heating system? Great job
Like your basic diagram in the beginning you brought up good points here in a little constructive criticism and I mean no harm. Coolant temp sensor you missed which is what tells them there might be an issue and sometimes false alarm/faulty sensor, you didn't elaborate on the internal radiator within the radiator for the xmsn or tranny should I say my aircraft mechanic terminology kicked sorry. A lot of the newer vehicles are using oil coolers i didn't see when this video was posted if old viewer might want to look into what systems your vehicle may include. If they are missing coolant didn't elaborate on where they might want to check where the coolant in going if so. Some vehicle water pumps break the impeller but still actually look like they are still good when their not. Radiator or heater core being clogged internally. For the most part well done
Distilled water is water that has many of its impurities removed through distillation. Distillation involves boiling the water and then condensing the steam into a clean container. Tap water has calcium and many other additives that can build up in your cooling system over time.
If your temp is fine on the highway and high when you stop then not enough air is being manually pushed through... Usually that would mean your fan is not pulling enough air.
if I read the posts below correctly, you are not having any overheating issues? Are you sure the coolant isnt flowing and you just cant see it flowing?
That is a complex question. Fist off, don't mix the two. I would suggest you do some research on the internet or wiki about the differences between dex-cool and the green stuff. It's pretty complicated and I'm not bright enough to understand it all myself!
I assume you are talking about electric fans in which case you need a new fan or fans. If it's coming from the clutch fan I would assume that its coming into contact with the fan shroud... meaning your shroud is loose or the engine mounts are bad and the engine is moving around.
are you sure its a clutch fan or an electric fan? most clutch fans I have dealt with are operated thermostatically and don't have a wire to control the clutch. So now I'm a bit confused if you are talking about a clutch fan, an electrical fan, or a A/C clutch. What kind of car is this?
Very thorough thank you...also love the goggles...is there risk of putting air back into the system with the pressure cap off while running/testing?? I also thought that you are to put coolant in while the engine it's cold only, so how would it effect it one filling it with the engine hot?
Ok, I'll try that soon... One more question, I check me radiator fluid and it's a yellowish looking color brown kind of mirky look. And there's some sediment in it that looks almost like mud... I also have a weird noise coming from somewhere near the engine, that almost sounds like the power steering system when you turn hard, but has a high hum sound to it. Might this be the water pump? It does to to suck water when I increase the throttle. Thank you so much for taking the time to help! :)
My 4.0 renix ran cool at 160. Found out my thermostat was stuck open, replaced it and now it reaches about 180-190. I've heard proper operating temp for the 4.0 was about 210, any idea what may cause it to run cooler? My secondary fan is manually operated, so it's off most of the time unless I'm sitting still. I could drive her for a couple hours and grab the coolant line bare handed without burning myself, I know my temp gauge is reading right. Suppose I should be happy it cools itself so well.
same radiator but different tubes for the coolant and tranny fluid (not all radiators have tranny fluid in them). The tubes zig zag back and fourth and the fins cover the tubes to dissipate the heat more efficiently. try googling radiator cross section for an image
Hi I have a question I have a Jeep compass 2007 drove from LA to Yosemite-overheats when you drive long distance and uphill I already checked the fans which they look okay at the transmission oil flushed out two years ago but I didn't change the filter. Does not overheat when I'm driving on the street or on freeway. Told it was the transmission oil cooler that needed to be replaced but I just want to doublecheck if that is the correct reason. I know if I flush out the transmission oil again and change the filter in my cause more problems. Please help me!!
hmm, not really sure on this one... if the system is cooling good how do you know the elec fan needs to come on?? does the fan work when you turn the a/c on?
Hi there thanks for all the great videos. I have a 96 xj with 173,000 mi. On it. Has good headers and a cold air intake. I am having trouble with it passing the 210 mark when I'm driving in traffic or lots of stop and go. But when I'm on the free way with air flow it does good. What do you think about louvers also good locations to install them. And lastly a good upgrade radiator I could install. Thanks.
what i was saying is that you might have an airflow problem... the fans are not pushing enough air when you aren't moving fast. check your fans. That low rattling sound was probably your coolant boiling in the plastic bottle.
you might try flushing it if your are concerned, many times it was be a vacuum issue as well. you might also want to check or replace the heater control valve. But the heater core has nothing to do with a car overheating unless it is leaking the coolant out.
Yes, you should consider yourself lucky! but did you get the stock 195° thermostat? do you have a 3 core radiator? and to know the real temp you need a laser temp gun.
Thanx for this amazing video...1 question I recently had a over heating issue an when I'm driving at a slow speed my nissan pathfinder drives fine an the heat gage seems to stay constant but the moment I pick up speed then it over heats...any thoughts...thanx
Years ago we use to flush a vehicles cooling system and remove and test the thermostat to make sure it operated properly. Then we would remove the upper hose off the radiator and fill the whole cooling system and start the engine and the water would fly out of the upper hose about 10 to 20 feet in front of the vehicle and empty the system in a few seconds. This would tell us we had a good water pump and that the rapid flow means we at least didn’t have any obstructions or blockage through the hoses and block. Also a combustion test on the radiator water would tell us that the block, heads and gaskets were either good or bad.
several possibilities... Either you have air in the system, or you have a clogged heater core, or you have a vacuum leak somewhere which will keep the vacuum controls from working properly until higher rpm.
Thanks, if you feel inclined to tackle it yourself there are a few good vids out there on YT. Not sure if Eric the car guy has one but he is pretty good.
2a) debris between the radiator & AC condenser. 10) plugged converter. ;) I like to use those lever-lock radiator caps when I can find them. Then you can safely release coolant pressure when the system is hot. Most radiator caps are also designed so you can release the pressure when hot, but I don't like to share that with people because you have to know what you are doing to do it safely. I like to run a pre-filter on those cloth type filters, especially for when the water gets deep. ;)
Matt -- Cooling issue began on my 2000 Jeep G. C. Laredo 6C 4.0L immediately after changing the oil. Bought a new radiator cap and replaced the thermostat. Took your advice on "burping" the system, which I hadn't done. Parked it on an incline cold, took off the radiator cap and started the engine. The coolant was about three inches off the top. Nothing happened after starting the car, but as the engine warmed up the coolant started to rise until it spilled over on the ground. At that point I stopped the engine. Seems like there's an obstruction. What could be wrong?
My bro in-law had an overheating problem with his 2000 Cherokee, had the 4.0 inline 6. I noticed a ''no flow'' condition so I removed the water pump. The bearings n seal were great, the impeller was almost GONE, it was just a flat disc spinning in the coolant. New pump, no more problems!
Jeep xj's have a hard time in the desert. Hood louvers help as well as a larger capacity aluminum radiator. But lots of people have a hard time yet still in our summers. If you ever build a 4.0 here don't over bore the engine more than .020" because i've seen plenty of problems in cooling if bored more than that
Good info in your video! I replaced my water pump, thermostat and rad this past summer. I am getting good cooling but I can't seem to get the electric fan working. The fan works when I unplug the coolant temp sensor ( which I also replaced) but not with it connected. I also replaced the fan relay. Could it be related to the air conditioning system which stopped working just before the fan stopped working. It's a 94 Jeep Cherokee Country edition. Any ideas?
Man, I really like your relaxed attitude when explaining how things work, you are very thorough. Thank you !
Yah that super suave posture in the beginning . One cool dude
Been in the automotive business for 25+ years and concur with all you presented here....welll done
I appreciate how mellow you are, it made me feel a lot more relaxed about having a go at fixing this problem myself. Great presentation and very informative.
The engine diagram was helpful. But great video overall and the uphill vsm downhill camera trick was great. Bravo.
I love your tutorials I have 96 Jeep Cherokee classic and every time something breaks this is where I end up
Hi. I live in tropical country. I have sometime (not always) problem with overheating of engine when in traffic or in stand still. This happen like around 10 time in a year.
Some information as follows:
- the car is Isuzu Alterra diesel engine with clutch fan
- the radiator cap is ok
- radiator unit is new (i use the original radiator)
- radiator level is ok.
- no radiator leak. I never top off the radiator fluid.
- i use fully coolant fluid
- no plastic blocking the front of the radiator
- air condition fan unit is working (it switch on and off)
- when no engine over heat, the air con give cool air
- air con evaporator unit is clean (new cabin filter)
- clutch fan seem to work because i check the RPM (with non contact rpm tester/tachometer). The tachometer RPM at tester unit show same as the RPM at the car Gauge tachometer. Clutch fan is not easy to rotate when engine is at operating temperature. Clutch fan spin more freely when engine temp is cool.
When engine overheat, the aircon blow hot air as well
One time, when engine overheat, i switch OFF the air-con unit, slowly the engine temperature go down to normal engine temperature.
May i ask for your recommendation why my car sometime overheat when in traffic.
I love how informative and professional your videos are. Good work man
oh and btw i love how you explained the whole coolant system and i love that you speak clear english too, and not too fast. this is a great vid and i am going to save it so i can actually go thru each step to figure out what is wrong with my truck and why it's overheating. watching ur vid make me(YES A WOMAN) confident i will find what the problem is then get it fixed. so thanks so nuch and yes i have subscribed to your channel!!! thanks: yvonne k. tennessee
The Bob Ross of mechanics 😅💗thank you
This is the most comprehensive among all cooling system videos. Thumbs Up!
Great video, You certainly cannot cover every possible issue but you covered 95% of them. Like your systematic explanation. I could used this as a learning tool to teach my kids about how engines work. Can you do one on brakes and oil pressure next? Hats off you. Thanks
Hey Man thanks a lot for the video, it helped me figure out my stupid mistake. I have a 01 Intrepid rt 3.5, and it kept overheating after i tried to fix a mess with the fan wires. I had one of the fans pushing air instead of extracting it, I never would have thought to look at the direction they were blowing. All fixed now. Guy i bought it from thought it was the water pump, but he just didnt have things connected correctly. The reservoir tank was connected wrong too. Saved myself a few hundred dollars at the shop and future headaches thanks to this video!!!
When flushing the system , I recommend also reverse flushing . Especially the heater core . I have had heaters that were only warm come back to life with a reverse flush - directly on the core . Deposits build up over time and cut down on the heat . Also on the radiators , the tubes can get restricted . You can use a laser thermometer to check ALL the tubes . They are usually colder in the middle of the radiator if clogged . You can also put your hand on the tubes to check for cold areas - if you can get it in there . BUT you don't want your hand near an electric fan , even when not running . If hot , they can still turn on with the ignition off .
So my radiator is at 175 all around but in the center it’s cool. I can touch it. I thought it was because the clutch fan was pulling in air the most right there. I checked it right after taking the upper fan shroud off then I could stick my hand and a lazer thermometer everywhere with out the clutch fan in the way
@@Phuq_it I would think if the tubes are cold in the center of the radiator , it's because they are clogged and not allowing hot coolant to get through them . It will cut down on the ability of the radiator to get rid of the heat . I would replace the radiator . Also check the thermostat and circulation from the water pump . A reverse flush of the entire system, including the heater core , will bring everything back to full potential . You are working on a complete cooling system . Don't just slam a radiator in without doing a complete job . Don't forget to check the cooling fans . And don't run straight water .
@@billsmith2212 I just had my 454 dually redone. I changed everything to stock. Someone had an idea for a show truck but on a really tight budget. I decided to pull everything out and redo it from stock. Only thing is I can’t keep it from overheating after the outside temperature gets above 100. I even spent 1200 on a new ac. Once it gets 230 I turn heat on and sweat it out. It’s all factory now. Even the old engine did the same thing
@@billsmith2212 I just got off the phone with the builder and he said the center is going to be cold because that’s where the fan clutch pulls the most. The coolant sensor and thermostat is what he said to look at. Those thermostat’s are junk now and they see alot of them failing in the last 5 years
@@Phuq_it If the center is cold , the tubes are blocked . Because you are in an extremely hot area , you may want to upgrade to an oversized radiator and cooling fans with more CFM . There may also be a water pump with more flow . But if the coolant moves too fast , it may not allow it to give up the heat when going through the radiator . However , the larger radiator may balance that out . Look into radiator shrouds and air dams that direct the air flow . I would think there are shops that specialize in cooling systems , especially in Arizona . A specialist may have a complete system to get the temperature down . I would start with that blocked radiator core .
Man let me tell you sometime you what you are talkin about appreciate you people that watching video he knows what he is talking about again thank you young man thank you thank you thank you I will share this video with anybody that has a problem with their cooling system thank you thank you thank you thank you stay safe and again I appreciate you young man
when i got my xj the blades on my auxiliary fan (the electic one) where gone . i went and got a new one , installed it and wired to a toggle switch . greatest choice ive ever made . for the most part i can control my engine temp :)
Lmk about the install idk shit about the wiring
Wow, Im genuinely impressed. Sonetimes when the car gets stressfull, its nice to hear someone being calm. Good reset while figuring things out
The clutch fan on my '88 Cherokee didn't budge with the engine off. It still spun when the engine was running, but the clutch was seized. I found a couple of fans at a junkyard that still spun freely and swapped out the original for one of the junkyard fans. Had to pull the radiator, but got it done.
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Jeep Cheorkee 2000. 140K Miles. rusted out radiator (too much water) March. replaced with new one, thermostat and engine flush - fan shroud broke, did not replace. Worked fine through NorCal, OR, WA, ID, UT, NV, AZ - 2000miles. Overheated once in MT. Split upper radiator hose. Replaced. Once back in SoCal, overheated. Lower hose replaced.
Ran fine for 3 weeks. Then, began overheating on slight grade, or after running for 20m driving. Could let it sit for 90m at idle with AC on full, nothing. Drive it up a grade, or for 20m overheat. One too many times and Cracked head between Cylinders 3/4. Replaced head. New fan, water pump. radiator cap. Still overheats on grade or after 15m. Had Firestone do cooling systems check. Passed block test, another radiator cap and tightened hose clamps. Said it was good to go. Still overheats on grade. I've had five Cheorkees - still have two - and get 200K miles + out of each. Any ideas?
Hey just went through a night mare for a weird over heating problem in my 2010 Jeep Liberty found out after a thermostat then water pump then radiator and five days later found out that the thermostats from part stores will not work in this vehicular you have to get them from car dealer because rectory thermostats are specials ; my car would over heat as I got up to speed of 65 if I stayed at 55 or slower it would not over heat this is just info if your out there having problems like this yes it was a feascail but it runs awesome now
never F around with aftermarket cooling system parts, leave that for suspension
that sounds right about the relay, I'm not sure which on it would be but just start sapping relays until it works then you'll know. Sorry I don't know much about electrical but you might want to ask the question on your favorite jeep forum and see if someone there has an answer for you.
What about a partially clogged radiator?
@silverbird58 what is comet?
do you have any more ways specifically to check the water pump? is there a video to show how to replace the waterpump if it's bad?
Hey Matt, I've watched this video several times and changed out pretty much the whole cooling system in a 99 XJ. New pump, thermostat, cap, rad is less than 2 years old and the hoses look good and fairly new. I've also flushed several times. I thought it may be the "spring" in the lower hose so I changed out the lower hose and sure enough, no spring. I've been to several local auto parts stores but they don't have any with springs. So I used a new one hose from Autozone. It does seem more stiff than the old one, but she's still overheating and after running, antifreeze upchucks out of the reservoir. Does this sound like the lower hose is collapsing and if so, where do I get a spring? Thank you for all your videos, I watch them all the time:)
robpossible I've read about this and apparently only the Factory hoses had springs and they were for filling the system with antifreeze quickly on the assembly line and were not needed after that. Another theory, modern hoses are stiff enough they don't need springs anymore.
😭😭😭 I have the same problem with overheating I have changed the water pump, changed the radiator, change even the gasket but still overheating
Its a head gasket unfortunately.
The Best Instructional Auto coolant flow video on the net.
Great video.....must have been other mechanics who gave you thumbs down out of jealousy. You told everything an inexperienced mechanic needs to know!
thanks buds ! couldn't agree more , i know i learned something thanks again!
Good mechanics give information freely, dispel misinformation, because keeping your car in proper working order is just good business.
Replacement of the viscous clutch on the mechanical fan will suck volumes of cooling air through the radiator,replace it,if you have overheating problems,as there is really no way of telling if it is working correctly ..Replacement of the viscous clutch can make a major difference to the running of your jeep, never overlook or pass the replacement of the viscous clutch by.
They are both separated in different tubes. just like the oil and coolant both go into the engine but they are in different compartments and dont mix. The radiator cools the tranny just fine on stock applications but some people choose to add on another in line external cooler for performance applications, lets day for towing, racing, hillclimbing, etc.
forgot two very common causes:
1. cracked head, block, or head gasket,
2. plugged radiator.
Also, sometimes the water pump impeller will erode away or just spin on the shaft without its bearings going bad so you need to discuss a way to test its actual flow.
Excellent comment ..
Good video. I am a full time autotech. It is rare, but I have seen water pump impeller's seperate from the mainshaft. It won't leak or wobble, but it will not move water. It is common on VW engines with plastic impellar, but I have also seen it on chevy's. Also air in the system can cause overheating. Honda civic's with the heater core up higher that the radiator cap are bad about this. I use a special funnel to bleed out the air. Keep up the good work.
nice video you for got blown head gasket
Dude!! Best tutorial out here on youtube. Thank you so much for taking your time
If you are over heating and your upper radiator hose is bulging could this be a radiator cap that is not opening?
+Mike Meegan i would think maybe a clogged radiator.
+BleepinJeep potentially more complicated. Here's the latest. Thanks! www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/overheat-upper-rad-hose-bulging-3586106/
www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/overheat-upper-rad-hose-bulging-3586106/
+Mike Meegan - Sorry but if the " Radiator Cap " is " NOT OPENING ", then the " RESERVOIR " would " OVERFLOW " first. I agree with " BleepinJeep ". If the " Upper Hose " is bulging. 3- Things you check. #1. The Radiator Clogged. #2. Internal Clogged (Engine Block Passage). #3. The Thermostat is NOT opening correctly.
Mike Meegan k
Awesome vid. replaced my water pump and lost a lot of coolant. Put more coolant but Car was overheating. Did your "burp" method and all is well. Thought for a second that i received a bad water pump from auto parts store. MANY MANY THANKS!!!
2:56 made me laugh for some reason.
@Coleman Kairo d I’m I’m Che
Ahha And When He Was On A Steep Hill Hahahaha
An entire tree and a piece of paper 🤣
did you replace the radiator cap? or you might have air in the system. is this a pressurized reservoir? if so it could have a hole in it.
Is mayonnaise a coolant?
NO, do NOT put mayonnaise in your car's cooling system!! It will cause damage and does not have the proper viscosity that your car's recommended coolant needs to have. Not to mention mayonnaise will freeze in winter conditions, and does a poor job at cooling your car!!! Do not listen to this guy trust me, mayonnaise is not a good idea for putting in your car's cooling system, it's a common urban myth that it can work!!!
@@micaarzur Alright fine, deli mustard it is.
@@shark180 much better.
Are you talking about sandwiches?
that really depends on if you are offroading it or not and how you drive. Offroad I would say 33's for the dana35, 34's for the 8.25, 33's for the dana30 and 36's for the dana 30 with chromoly.
The issue I'm having is that the car only over heats when I turn the ac on. The ac works' but the car over heats if it's kept on. If I don't use ac the car run just fine. Can you please help?
Did you fix your problem? I'm having the same issue with my Nissan Maxima
Nah, but some told me that it's a sign of the head gasket going bad'
Bcs I put a new radiator, hoses, thermal stat. And it's still doing it
+AR-X I Yea I took my car to the dealer. Same thing coolant leaking in to the spark plug cylinder. New engine needed.
you should have replaced the head gasket!
Great steps thanks. I'm a shade tree but start panicking & thinking the worst moving down from there. usually buying replacing parts I didn't need too sweat and replace. Nice to have a mellow guy go through steps I already know, slow me down, think. B.T.W. my wife loved it. She cant change flashlight batteries, but understood every word. Finally!!! she wont blow another head gasket Grrrr. I too stressed the importance of always wearing eye protection while working, thanks Jason. Phoenix , AZ july 2016 114 degrees today.
I have a 2003 honda 140k that's been always overheats, I pour coolant into it and it's fine with highway driving it's not until I stop or idle that the temp gauge begins to climb. Around the time I stop/idle after driving the a/c will change from blowing hot air to blowing cold air. After it overheats I'll pull it off to the side and check the components the overflow tank looks to have spitted out all the antifreeze towards the bottom and some on the air intake. I've had a new thermostat installed, fans checked/electricals, new radiator was installed. I thought it was a bad head gasket but there is no white pummels of smoke or a milky dipstick and I had a mechanic do a chemical test and it came back negative. What might be wrong?
Thank you
Have u check your water pump dude?
Had a master ASE tech check it out, blown head gasket.
James Whyte my 2001 honda civic does same thing. hopefully it's not a blown head gasket tho.
check cooling fan switch.
James Whyte it's a Honda... that's why :)
Thank you very much for putting the time into this video. Its people like you who save people like me a lot of money! Thanks again
NOTE: Internal Clogged (Engine Block Passage) is the hardest and you could pull all your Hair out before you realized it's in the Engine Block ://.
What to do then??
I replaced the water pump and the thermostat but my truck is still overheating what could be the reason ????
@@twinewinfieldwinfield6734 - You have to do an " Extreme Flush ". See this video here: th-cam.com/video/0aaLVCpVS08/w-d-xo.html
i had the same issue a while back and it was the clutch fan. sometimes they aren't bad but just aren't as good as they should be. try putting a new clutch on there and see if that fixes the problem.
the oil pump screen or oil filter.the aintfrezze is new fans good every thing good with fluid new caps temp gauge good readyater. .could be the head gasket
the motor gets hot nothing else the oil red hot .
"Harmonic Balancer" I recently learned the inner rubber membrane can break down and cause the water pump to not circulate water fast enough. To check this, see if the outside of the Harmonic Balancer turns at the same rate of speed as the center of the Harmonic Balancer bolted to the Crankshaft. Yes, it will separate and damage the radiator.
its best that you dont put your keft hand on your waist.
Why
@@OysterPir8 bro is been waiting 3 years for the reason 💀
Keft?
Homiswheryoumakeit
could be a ton of things but I would check that you don't have a clogged radiator first, that you didn't install the thermostat backwards, and that the spring in the lower radiator hose is still there (if it is suppose to have one).
3:38 LMAO wtffff lolllllllll
Pkproduction217 foreals.. good video but that was over the hill exagerated lmao
This is a very good video. I was expecting the host to bark at me, but he kept a calm, cool demeanor. Well done!
he sounds like that high pitched old fella from family guy hahahaha
I know there are some writeups on it out there, not sure about videos. But if you wait a few months I might have one as my new cherokee still has the closed system.
I just found out a clogged or bad fuel filter can cause also cause a car to overheat traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?188533-Fuel-Filter-overheating-problem
Man, your laid-back style is the best. I have an 04 Cherokee 4.0L 6 cylinder 2 wd. It has been running hot. It took about 2 hours to get it home one night because it would drive only so far and then get too hot to start. After it cooled to less than half of its max hotline on the gauge I would take off again and drive as far as possible and that cycle repeated until I finally arrived home. I stopped and pour 5 small bottles of water into the coolant reservoir. That made no difference. It's in my garage as I write you. Your video certainly widened my perspective on what the problem could be. My mechanic was to come by and check it out Friday but never showed or called me (typical). The radiator or engine cooling fan does not spin when the engine is off and I attempt to turn it manually. It may be out. Or, the resistor as you taught could be shot. Do you know any mechanics in Memphis? If so, give me their name and number. Thanks. I subscribed and clicked the like button.
Was not expecting all of the humor but certainly loved it! 🤣
dude,thanks for this info.was most informative.have a jeep cherokee 12 years.has always run warm or hot.head cracks/gasket etc. will check these things you mentioned.
I just watched the video. Great info. But maybe you should mention that after doing all nine steps if still haven't resolved the problem, to check for oil in the water or water in the oil for a bad head gasket.
You covered more then anyone so far👍 although one guy out there talks about factory clamps and how to check for a weak hose. Thanks a bunch friend. Now I have a lot of work to do.
Really good work, liked it a lot. My car had a Thermostat Problem and after replacing with new one all is working fine :). Thanks a lot and wish you the best.
Thank YOU! An alternate way to check the fan clutch! The book says when it's hot it should be harder to move, but as you say- it's practically impossible to check that way- my old one failed that test but so did the NEW one I bought- so is it bad? I doubt it; your "coasting" method sounds much better. I was about to drill a hole it the old one and pin it, but now I'll check it your way. I don't have anyone to help, but I can rig up my LizardCam so I can see it from the driver's seat if I can't shut it off from outside the cab...EDIT: Just checked it that way, and it coasted for about 1/2 sec. Thanks again!
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Is engine condition cause any radiator over heating? . Nice and easy presentation.
thx.
Can a cooling system flush really solve an overheating engine issue?My Ranger 3.0 was overheating.The coolant was replaced and this seems to have fixed the problem.No other problem was found.Thanks and you have a new subscriber!
well there are two types of cooling systems, open and closed. If your overflow bottle is sealed like a pressure vessel then it is a closed system and you need a new bottle. Most modern cars have open systems though and the overflow bottle has a vent and does not contain pressure. if that is your case then there is a problem elsewhere which is just venting the coolant out the reservoir which it is suppose to do when there is a problem.
Mine is perfect stock system with high flow pump and still overheats. Az summers 35’s 4:88 won tons and loaded up with strong tuned up 4.0 is too much for it so had to install a large trans cooler which works wonders! I now think the leading cause of overheating cherokees may be this exact thing. rad fan shrouds super important and removing stock skid plate that creates vacuum on backside of rad is a bad thing but we all must do it for a multitude of reasons.
I added water to my 2005 Impala park up facing a hill and you were right! Thank you for the video and that radiator was thirty for water.
91 jeep yj. Changed rad, tstat, water pump, hoses...it's still running hot. Not the 210 it used too. Only thing left if the fan clutch? Fan seems to be working fine. It's running around the 230 range not matter if it's hot or cold outside. 4.0, 295 tstat. Thanks
excellent video one thing I am curious about is when you mentioned transmission fluid flowing thru your radiator. I am little confused if that is the cases then how do these fluids not mix together i.e the transmission fluided and the coolant/antifreeze fluided?
And do you have any video as good as this one for the air conditioning / car heating system? Great job
Separate sections so they can't mix.
Like your basic diagram in the beginning you brought up good points here in a little constructive criticism and I mean no harm.
Coolant temp sensor you missed which is what tells them there might be an issue and sometimes false alarm/faulty sensor, you didn't elaborate on the internal radiator within the radiator for the xmsn or tranny should I say my aircraft mechanic terminology kicked sorry. A lot of the newer vehicles are using oil coolers i didn't see when this video was posted if old viewer might want to look into what systems your vehicle may include. If they are missing coolant didn't elaborate on where they might want to check where the coolant in going if so. Some vehicle water pumps break the impeller but still actually look like they are still good when their not. Radiator or heater core being clogged internally.
For the most part well done
Distilled water is water that has many of its impurities removed through distillation. Distillation involves boiling the water and then condensing the steam into a clean container. Tap water has calcium and many other additives that can build up in your cooling system over time.
If your temp is fine on the highway and high when you stop then not enough air is being manually pushed through... Usually that would mean your fan is not pulling enough air.
no prob bob, thanks for watching!
if I read the posts below correctly, you are not having any overheating issues? Are you sure the coolant isnt flowing and you just cant see it flowing?
That is a complex question. Fist off, don't mix the two. I would suggest you do some research on the internet or wiki about the differences between dex-cool and the green stuff. It's pretty complicated and I'm not bright enough to understand it all myself!
I assume you are talking about electric fans in which case you need a new fan or fans. If it's coming from the clutch fan I would assume that its coming into contact with the fan shroud... meaning your shroud is loose or the engine mounts are bad and the engine is moving around.
One of the better tutorials on the cooling system . You should be a Teacher ?
are you sure its a clutch fan or an electric fan? most clutch fans I have dealt with are operated thermostatically and don't have a wire to control the clutch. So now I'm a bit confused if you are talking about a clutch fan, an electrical fan, or a A/C clutch. What kind of car is this?
Very thorough thank you...also love the goggles...is there risk of putting air back into the system with the pressure cap off while running/testing?? I also thought that you are to put coolant in while the engine it's cold only, so how would it effect it one filling it with the engine hot?
Awesome video! Thnx a ton 4 helping me diagnose and fix my cooling system problem! Saved my trooper,and my headache! Thanks again!!
Teresa Waters sure, no problem!
Ok, I'll try that soon...
One more question, I check me radiator fluid and it's a yellowish looking color brown kind of mirky look. And there's some sediment in it that looks almost like mud... I also have a weird noise coming from somewhere near the engine, that almost sounds like the power steering system when you turn hard, but has a high hum sound to it. Might this be the water pump? It does to to suck water when I increase the throttle.
Thank you so much for taking the time to help! :)
My 4.0 renix ran cool at 160. Found out my thermostat was stuck open, replaced it and now it reaches about 180-190. I've heard proper operating temp for the 4.0 was about 210, any idea what may cause it to run cooler? My secondary fan is manually operated, so it's off most of the time unless I'm sitting still. I could drive her for a couple hours and grab the coolant line bare handed without burning myself, I know my temp gauge is reading right. Suppose I should be happy it cools itself so well.
same radiator but different tubes for the coolant and tranny fluid (not all radiators have tranny fluid in them). The tubes zig zag back and fourth and the fins cover the tubes to dissipate the heat more efficiently. try googling radiator cross section for an image
This helped Me a lot. Thanks for sharing your wisdom.
look at the treads on those front tires. perfect alignment. very cool.
Hi I have a question I have a Jeep compass 2007 drove from LA to Yosemite-overheats when you drive long distance and uphill I already checked the fans which they look okay at the transmission oil flushed out two years ago but I didn't change the filter. Does not overheat when I'm driving on the street or on freeway. Told it was the transmission oil cooler that needed to be replaced but I just want to doublecheck if that is the correct reason. I know if I flush out the transmission oil again and change the filter in my cause more problems. Please help me!!
hmm, not really sure on this one... if the system is cooling good how do you know the elec fan needs to come on?? does the fan work when you turn the a/c on?
Hi there thanks for all the great videos. I have a 96 xj with 173,000 mi. On it. Has good headers and a cold air intake. I am having trouble with it passing the 210 mark when I'm driving in traffic or lots of stop and go. But when I'm on the free way with air flow it does good. What do you think about louvers also good locations to install them. And lastly a good upgrade radiator I could install. Thanks.
what i was saying is that you might have an airflow problem... the fans are not pushing enough air when you aren't moving fast. check your fans. That low rattling sound was probably your coolant boiling in the plastic bottle.
Very good video. Thanks. One additional issue may be the existence of combustion gases in the cooling system due to a cracked head or head gasket.
you might try flushing it if your are concerned, many times it was be a vacuum issue as well. you might also want to check or replace the heater control valve. But the heater core has nothing to do with a car overheating unless it is leaking the coolant out.
Yes, you should consider yourself lucky! but did you get the stock 195° thermostat? do you have a 3 core radiator? and to know the real temp you need a laser temp gun.
Thanx for this amazing video...1 question I recently had a over heating issue an when I'm driving at a slow speed my nissan pathfinder drives fine an the heat gage seems to stay constant but the moment I pick up speed then it over heats...any thoughts...thanx
ya no problem, thanks for watching!
depends if it is a closed or open system. I'm guessing it is an open system in which case it just keeps it from spilling and keeps dust out.
Years ago we use to flush a vehicles cooling system and remove and test the thermostat to make sure it operated properly. Then we would remove the upper hose off the radiator and fill the whole cooling system and start the engine and the water would fly out of the upper hose about 10 to 20 feet in front of the vehicle and empty the system in a few seconds. This would tell us we had a good water pump and that the rapid flow means we at least didn’t have any obstructions or blockage through the hoses and block. Also a combustion test on the radiator water would tell us that the block, heads and gaskets were either good or bad.
I believe you helped me out when it came to step 8 and 9 that's what I haven't heard on other videos so thanks a lot good video
several possibilities... Either you have air in the system, or you have a clogged heater core, or you have a vacuum leak somewhere which will keep the vacuum controls from working properly until higher rpm.
Thanks, if you feel inclined to tackle it yourself there are a few good vids out there on YT. Not sure if Eric the car guy has one but he is pretty good.
2a) debris between the radiator & AC condenser.
10) plugged converter. ;)
I like to use those lever-lock radiator caps when I can find them. Then you can safely release coolant pressure when the system is hot. Most radiator caps are also designed so you can release the pressure when hot, but I don't like to share that with people because you have to know what you are doing to do it safely.
I like to run a pre-filter on those cloth type filters, especially for when the water gets deep. ;)
Matt -- Cooling issue began on my 2000 Jeep G. C. Laredo 6C 4.0L immediately after changing the oil. Bought a new radiator cap and replaced the thermostat. Took your advice on "burping" the system, which I hadn't done. Parked it on an incline cold, took off the radiator cap and started the engine. The coolant was about three inches off the top. Nothing happened after starting the car, but as the engine warmed up the coolant started to rise until it spilled over on the ground. At that point I stopped the engine. Seems like there's an obstruction. What could be wrong?
My bro in-law had an overheating problem with his 2000 Cherokee, had the 4.0 inline 6. I noticed a ''no flow'' condition so I removed the water pump. The bearings n seal were great, the impeller was almost GONE, it was just a flat disc spinning in the coolant. New pump, no more problems!
Jeep xj's have a hard time in the desert. Hood louvers help as well as a larger capacity aluminum radiator. But lots of people have a hard time yet still in our summers. If you ever build a 4.0 here don't over bore the engine more than .020" because i've seen plenty of problems in cooling if bored more than that
Good info in your video! I replaced my water pump, thermostat and rad this past summer. I am getting good cooling but I can't seem to get the electric fan working. The fan works when I unplug the coolant temp sensor ( which I also replaced) but not with it connected. I also replaced the fan relay. Could it be related to the air conditioning system which stopped working just before the fan stopped working. It's a 94 Jeep Cherokee Country edition. Any ideas?