I use it to move things around regularly, but have only done a couple small jobs with it since I got it going. I intended to redo my driveway before winter, but had to postpone it due to limited free time this time of year. I will be making a snow removal video once we get a big storm
Definitely do it, pretty straightforward to do it the way I did. Good machines, definitely worth keeping around. I’d happily go with any vanguard over 20hp. Even the 18hp I’m running does perfectly fine, never stalled it out, though it does bog down turning on dry concrete.
That’s my plan, waiting on a shipment of fabric weed barrier then I’ll be redoing my driveway with asphalt millings. I intend to make a longer video of the process. The little Melroe will be used heavily.
Apologies for the delayed response. Crankshaft side spins counterclockwise and flywheel side spins clockwise. Chain and sprocket are on crankshaft side.
I believe I have the same machine, no serial number plate. Purchased a few months ago and it doesn't want to turn without stalling the engine. It has been retrofitted with a 22hp Kawasaki. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for watching, your issue sounds like it has been improperly geared. If your sprocket tooth count is too far off it puts a very heavy load on the engine and if you’re not on a loose surface, stalling will be extremely easy. If you have a chain drive set up, that is. If they decided to keep the original variable speed pulley, but instead modified it to be fixed, the same issue would occur. What set up is yours running?
Something to check out is if you’re adjustable sheave on your jack shaft is actually moving freely. Depending on how the re-power was done, there may or may not be enough tension on the belt for it too open up the adjustable sheave. In that situation your drive ratio will be something around .75 revolutions of crankshaft to one revolution of Jack shaft. Motor won’t have enough torque.
chain drive is not very good go. go to industrial belt drive i did conversion 5 years ago. that dam chain drive will drive you mad. oil flicked every wear. and constant replacement. i fitted dual belt drive never touched it for 5 years and my engine bay is clean. no chain noise don't learn the hard way
I did give it quite a bit of consideration, I will be adding a tensioner/idler. I could care less about the noise as I always use hearing protection. Chain drive is very easy to maintain. Chain can be replaced in 5 minutes. I will consider changing it if I experience any issues, but there is no reason to change something that has been working perfectly fine for the last 80 hours.
Really cool project, I bet it’s very handy machine. Definitely need a video of that dude working.
I use it to move things around regularly, but have only done a couple small jobs with it since I got it going. I intended to redo my driveway before winter, but had to postpone it due to limited free time this time of year. I will be making a snow removal video once we get a big storm
The Onan in my old 444 locked up this winter. It was pretty tired being 59 yrs old. This summer im thinking of dropping a 23hp vanguard in it.
Definitely do it, pretty straightforward to do it the way I did. Good machines, definitely worth keeping around. I’d happily go with any vanguard over 20hp. Even the 18hp I’m running does perfectly fine, never stalled it out, though it does bog down turning on dry concrete.
@@FenrirFabrication thank you for putting your videos out and for the encouragement!
Can we see some video of you running the machine and operating it
That’s my plan, waiting on a shipment of fabric weed barrier then I’ll be redoing my driveway with asphalt millings. I intend to make a longer video of the process. The little Melroe will be used heavily.
The output shaft that drives the chain and wheels runs clockwise or counterclockwise?
Apologies for the delayed response. Crankshaft side spins counterclockwise and flywheel side spins clockwise. Chain and sprocket are on crankshaft side.
I believe I have the same machine, no serial number plate. Purchased a few months ago and it doesn't want to turn without stalling the engine. It has been retrofitted with a 22hp Kawasaki. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for watching, your issue sounds like it has been improperly geared. If your sprocket tooth count is too far off it puts a very heavy load on the engine and if you’re not on a loose surface, stalling will be extremely easy. If you have a chain drive set up, that is. If they decided to keep the original variable speed pulley, but instead modified it to be fixed, the same issue would occur. What set up is yours running?
It seems to be all original setup with the variable speed pulley functioning as it should. Thanks for the response. @@FenrirFabrication
Something to check out is if you’re adjustable sheave on your jack shaft is actually moving freely. Depending on how the re-power was done, there may or may not be enough tension on the belt for it too open up the adjustable sheave. In that situation your drive ratio will be something around .75 revolutions of crankshaft to one revolution of Jack shaft. Motor won’t have enough torque.
I am waiting for a hydraulic filter canister o-ring to come in, once i get it and get the machine started I will check it out.@@FenrirFabrication
chain drive is not very good go. go to industrial belt drive i did conversion 5 years ago. that dam chain drive will drive you mad. oil flicked every wear. and constant replacement. i fitted dual belt drive never touched it for 5 years and my engine bay is clean. no chain noise don't learn the hard way
I did give it quite a bit of consideration, I will be adding a tensioner/idler. I could care less about the noise as I always use hearing protection. Chain drive is very easy to maintain. Chain can be replaced in 5 minutes. I will consider changing it if I experience any issues, but there is no reason to change something that has been working perfectly fine for the last 80 hours.
So what are the diameter sizes of the pulleys used