ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ส.ค. 2024
- A quick run through of 3 popular synthetic ambergris-like materials. Sniffed, compared and my usage percent recommendations.
- Ambroxan
- Cetalox
- Fixature 505E
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I diluted Ambroxan about 1 year ago at 10% completely forgot I diluted it until today. I have been stuck on using ISO E Super, and Cashmeran. Replaced the ISO E, and Cashmeran with this year old Ambroxan dilute, and smells amazing. Tossed it into a citrus floral blend, in really small amounts its deliciously potent. May try a mix of Ambroxan, and ISO E.
BK,
Thanks again for your videos...Waiting for more.
I love these videos when you explain and describe different oils. It really helps. I would really appreciate it if you could do one video on leather scents. Thank you!
Thank you so much for the detailed video ❤
Excellent video for learning. Really is helpful and appreciated. You detail these items very well. Thank you
Thanks for this video Bryan! Love your videos!!!! :)
Very informative and details of the compound, thanks do uploading more formulation related AV. Best wishes from Bharat (India) 🙏
Very cool!
Hey BK! Enjoyed the video as always. I’m having some troubles with constructing a Marine accord. Could you do a showcase of marine/ozonic compounds?
Sounds like a great idea! I have a ton of "ozonic" materials....
Yeah I've got all three and performance wise I was a little disappointed and that was even doing something similar to a creed accord. I have a seller here in Australia that sells some of the finest from the south East of Asia, his Ambergris isn't real either but I tell you what it's pretty good. Your welcome to try and find it by Natural Alchemy. He sells quite a few his myrrh absolute smells really professional top notch.
I bought a bottle of Ambroxan EDP; I mixed 7 pumps into 8ml travel atomizers, and filled the rest with perfume.
And they smell better, last longer, and the Ambroxan just smells delicious.
I also, wear the Ambroxan by itself, and I get delicious sweet, ambery, woody smooth, velvety, and almost vanilla like wafts of Ambroxan.
I wore 3 sprays of Afnan 9PM, and 4 sprays of Ambroxan. Then, I went to the store and got stalked and followed by to ladies that asked me what i was wearing because I smelled "sooooooo goooooood". I said Ambroxan.
The scent is truly intoxicating, and addictive.
For Dior Sauvage. The Ambroxan is smelled dayyyyyyyys after the top notes have vibrated away.
Question what did you use to dissolve the cetalox (Aka Ambroxan) I bought some not sure what to do with it, currently doing research.
Great video, BK, thank you! I don't have cetalox, but I do have ambrox super, which is supposed to be less woody and more animalic. I would love to get your take on ambrofix too. Looking forward to the next video!
Isn’t ambrofix a different name for ambroxan? The more I research it, they share the same CAS and have the same chemical string name, this I never bothered to pick it up....hmmmm
@@bkscents7050 They do share the same CAS and structure, but at least according to Chris Bartlett at Pell Wall they smell similar but not the same, and he favors ambrofix over ambroxan. I've read this is possible due to slight variations in purity and different balance of certain isomers, but I don't know enough chemistry to full understand how that works.
Hmmmmm.....now I wanna get some to see for myself. Time to go shopping! 😆
Yes please add on ambrox super, ambrifix, and ambrinol 95!
Another fantastic video! Would you suggest maturing these dilutions before using them in a trial?
Nah, once diluted down...they are ready to use instantly.
Actually, its name is FIXATEUR 505 E, it's a french word. Nice entry level videos, keep up the good work!
Ur explanations r precise,it would b much better if u add more references n contexts to the given chemicals/substances.Great effort n kudos to u.
NAMASTE from INDIA.
Ambroxan plays HUGE role in Alien by MUGLER - wmns. Te juxtaposition of Hedione and Hedione high cis, Salicylates Benzyl and Cis 3 Hexyl Salicylate and an overdose of Ambroxan are the centerpiece of Alien, dry woody - Solar is what they call it. So Ambroxan is by far not limited to men's cologne. Now the question I have is: are Cetalox and Ambrox Super the same? I have Ambox DL and it is creamy liquid and Ambrox Super is powdery pebbles it is softer in smell and creamier and not sharp smelling. Ambroxan is crystalline like you said. Love the vid btw - thumbs up!
oooh i love it when people drop insider tips on designer frags! :)
Ambrox DL is just Cetalox in a different format. Ambrox Super however is different (but still very similar), theres a great thread on this forum about it below:
www.basenotes.net/threads/433729-Ambrox-Super-What-do-we-know-about-it
I have to disagree and say that Alien is a lot more about the overdose of Cashmeran and Ambroxan.
Boom! Dropping more knowledge and insider tips in here! Love it 😊
@@GollumSmeagol I am sorry but I have to disagree. Have you tried overdosing cashmeran? You can't, because cashmeran gets immersed in other notes and gives overall powdery effect because it is a musk with no significant top notes. What you smell in Alien is an extended Cashmeran accord. The impression of extended Cashmeran (wood) is created through Patchuli - Pino acetaldehyde - Phenoxanol and Trimofix accord.
Cashmeran is and does get overdosed. I'm not sure what you mean that it doesn't have any significant top not. Cashmeran, in fact, has a tendency to bring out a salty note to accords, and does not get "immersed in other notes", unless you want it to. Have you ever tried a Marine/ocean accord with Cashmeran? Perfection. People often forget that about some of the effects of Cashmeran.
It also certainly doesn't disappear in popular oud accords.
The late and wonderful Laurent Bruyère and Dominique Ropion were experts, any problem they would have encountered, they would have fixed it by working around it. Maurice Roucel once put 25% of it in Dans tes bras.
All the notes you mentioned are in fact in Alien, however they do not replace Cashmeran, nothing replaces Cashmeran. They simply extend it, like you said. The original Alien formula had a lot of Cashmeran. It could have been changed since and probably will because of IFRA.
Apparently, 25% is the maximum that has been put in some fragrances (Not Alien)….that's not overdosing for you?
Great video, thanks! Are Ambroxan and Ambrofix the same product? There seems to be conflicting information on this online.
Good question, I don’t have ambrofix to compare directly, but from what I gather online...the seem to be the same. Same CAS and same chemical string name....but I can’t be certain cause I don’t have any ambrofix to compare with my ambroxan crystals
Sounds like we're drawing the same conclusion. I've yet to see a supplier that sells both. Thanks!
Cetalox to ambergis is what clearwood is to patchouli in my opinion
Nice VIdeo!
I was trying to mimic a "MOlecule 02" and diluted Ambermor (IFF Ambroxan) in 10% grain alcohol. BUT, after diluted and when applied over my skin, it got a “plastic” texture (not oily, as the most of fragrance feels over skin)!
After a few minutes, started to crack over my skin!
Is there anything else to dilute and help to bind with the skin and helps on longevity? Or, if i let macerate for a few weeks this could help with bind with my skin?
Thank you!
I've just made a 10% solution of Ambroxan in alcohol and it smells like pretty much nothing from the test strip! At first I thought my nose was fatigued, but my wife just confirmed that it really is a very faint smell indeed. I can't pick even a slight nuance of it. The raw powder also smells kind of warmish but indistinct as well. What can be wrong?..
The 10% Solution does smell faint indeed...but its one of those silent creepers, once you add it to a blend it becomes apparent and noticeable. Theres nothing wrong with your 10% solution. Use it in a blend of a fragrance you're working on, and do a test batch with it (try around 2-3% of your formula), and one without it. You will notice the difference it adds, and youll also see why some perfumers use up to 10% of this material in their blends, but im not saying your fragrance needs THAT much of it, lol.
My thought is crystal form is good. I diluted this almost 1 year ago to 10% perfumers alcohol and its amazing, let it marinate for some time...my own experience. Ambroxan crystals I have are from Perfumers Aprentice.
not promoting any company those are the crystals I have, not powder form.
Which brand company of Ambroxan do you advise and how can one purchase it
Can you add ambroxan and Hedione in same mixture ? What qualities will both add to the fragrance individually ?
Its VERY common to add Hedione and Ambroxan in the same mixture
grisalva is pretty good too.
I have diluted ambroxan in dpg and used a drop in 30ml ready made perfume but still projection is not good....pls suggest how to improve projection and make my ordinary perfume smells like premium one
Do you dilute ambroxan in DPG or can it be in perfumers alcohol?
Either is fine. I use ethyl alcohol and it does the job as long as you dilute it down to 10% or less. Anything more than that and the solution will crystallize if the room temp gets below 62 degrees.
What note profile will attract men more??
You seem to be able to find out compositions so my question is… I want to make a mens oud… in the family of Gucci intense oud… can you help me? Or will you?
I’m really curious what the difference is in Calone vs Cascalone, I really hate Calone, and find it really noticeable-but recently I came across Guerlains aqua allagorica watermelon perfume and loved it, so I’m wondering if they used Cascalone instead
Cascalone is less melony than regular calone. While it still smells of regut calone, they somehow removed the melon aspects. There are other ways to do a melon note......melanol, cis-6 nonenol, melon givco (Givaudan)
i think u will love melonal but the natural version
Is this thing that responsible to give monster projection in perfumery, I know a few people even utuber who's claiming ambroxan really makes the perfume project like a beast
I do own dior sauvage 2017 batch, n the projection n sillage is very powerful according to people around me
I wouldnt say this material by itself gives monster projection...but when doesed around 1-2% in your formula, it does radiate and give this nice "blu" like sweetness. In Dior Sauvage it uses Ambrocenide which is a potent woody-amber material that helps it project as well.
@@bkscents7050 thank u so much for the info..wat about iso e super, i watch ur previous video on workhorse materials, but u doesn't say anything about performance aspect for iso e super..I also heard this one increase projection in a fragrance..can u comment on this? It is easier for me to obtain iso e super in my country
@@ahmadfirdaus6880 Iso E super in my opinion doesn't really project much, nor help with projection. Its a very faint material that helps give some body (faint woodiness) to the overall fragrance, but i wouldnt really say its a material that helps project anything. Its really not as diffusive as you would think.
Can u tell me something that can make the perfume more long lasting ?
Spray more. Spray on clothes.
cetalox is big and chunky so how do you measure it? can you use a zester to break it down?
You measure it with a scale (weight) by the gram(s). All dilutions and ratios should be by weight
@@bkscents7050 if i wanted to add the dilution to candlewax, what would be better than alcohol but just as good as alcohol?
I use Cetalox a lot but my personal favorite is Ambrox Super.
I haven't tried ambrox super yet. How's it compare to ambroxan and cetalox? Is it the same odor profile, but a higher strength?
@@bkscents7050 Ambrox Super is to me refined and perfected Cetalox. I used it generously in my Tom Ford Grey Vetiver inspired formula and it really made it smell high-end fragrance.
@@bkscents7050 Ambrox super is real Ambroxan as Firmenich lost that patent long ago hence they had to change the name. But it's way more powerful and the real deal.