My favorite seized seatpost story; 24 hour soak with WD40. Bike was stripped of most other parts, but BB and cranks were in still. Seatpost was decided to be a throwaway and got clamped into a bench vice. Heavy action on the post with a propane torch, a little bit on the frame, too. Two mechanics grab the frame and start levering on it. It starts moving. Slowly at first, then slowly all the way to the end. There was a lot of friction. When the post finally came free, and oxygen reached the superheated WD40, a 16 inch jet of flame shot out of the seat tube. It was glorious. I would use the same technique again, but just pull the BB to prevent a "framethrower" incident.
I so enjoy working on bikes, cleaning, lubricating, fixing - just making them better! Especially for kids, or big kids! You make it look so much easier than it is. Love watching your videos.
After stripping the bottom bracket, invert the bicycle. Fill the seat tube with Oxalic Acid. Let it sit in a well-ventilated area for ten days. Drain the acid out and rinse the bicycle with water. The acid dissolves the chemical bond between the steel frame and the aluminum seat post.
I would NEVER have thought of using Gallium to screw with the post!.. great idea!.. my frame was aluminium though .. probably not the best idea to do this with a alu frame tbh!..lol..
My Cannondale F1000 had a snapped seatpost when I bought it (got it ridiculously cheap b'cos of this) .. but it was just below (like 1-2 mm) the seat-tube opening.. 05:57.. this looks VERY similar!.. I had MONTHS of messing around..trying not to damage the frame.. I got hold of one of those "single sided" hacksaws.. Padsaw i think its called.. and started gently sawing away.. cut out 2 lines opposite each other till i was close to the frame.. then just swapped sides after a few "saws" and POOF..or POP..out it flew.. hardest thing I've ever had to fix on a bike..it wasn't going ANYWHERE..litterally snapped on the other fella who tried to get it moving..thing was STUCK!.. it's starting to come together now though.. I ADORE this frame tbh.
I bought my wicked in 88 and felt that it was the ultimate Mtn. Bike. I don’t understand how people let a nice bike ever get to that kind of deteriorated state.
WOW! I've never seen anything seized to that extent through galvanization. Loved your use of gallium on the aluminum post remnants. Thanks for sharing!
Currently fighting a seat post in a '90 GT all terra, came here for motivation! Hopefully will win the fight soon! Great work on that bike, that collective is lucky to have you!
Had similar on a used old frame several years back and saw a forum post advising to use caustic soda as it just eats aluminium. I left it a few hours and there was nothing remaining of the post in the morning. Was great, as had been tearing my hair out. Heat and large amounts of penetrating fluid did nothing.
ohh now I have to go in the basement and work on that Trek frame with a seized post too, thanks a lot!! haha. another beautiful restore cool to see the 'live' rebuild
Awesome new life given to that sweet old bike... The floor of the Old Shovel shop must be its own work of art from the blending of all the cool paint colors you've used for the rebuilds over the years...
Lol actually one thing I like about the spray.bike paint is that it drys to a powder about 18 inches out of the can (ideal spray distance is less than 6”. So after a paint job I just sweep up.
@@oldshovel Whoa that's really cool - never knew that could be a characteristic of a paint that could also be resilient enough to use on a bike frame... I've learned lots from this video !
Gallium ... what a great Idea. I have a 1993 Marin Bear Valley SE in my Barn .. Nowadays totally stripped for Parts but with a Setpost that Stuck even the Frame is sucked on like Shrink Tube. I never won't to let it go and throw it away. Now i know a new Route to go. Thanks alot
It takes more work than it looks like in the video but it did work. The Gallic process took most of a day, letting it sit for a couple hours between “soakings” and chipping. Good luck.
Advocating for better bike infrastructure is also a great way to help those who get around on bike as transportation. Be it kids, those who can’t drive, or afford to drive, and everyone else! :)
for aluminum/steel galvanic corrosion i always go pretty quickly to the reciprocating saw and cut the top then the inside. It is usually the only way since it is almost like it's welded. Puts less stress on the frame you just have to be careful to only cut the seatpost.
After trying everything else bar the blowtorch, I had to get similarly mediaeval on a campag chorus carbon post which had welded itself into a very expensive carbon frame. Thankfully it worked and with no (apparent) damage.
Think you might test the seat post first before picking a bike out? Watching Spindatt last year scared me and a lifetime as an industrial mechanic have me leary of extra wrenching and heating. Great work for a fantastic organization. Rather than collect the big parts bin, your channel has inspired me to pass on working spares and take-offs to Boulder area coop since I don’t have one in my area.
Honestly i feel you on this one. have a 1996 karakoram with a stuck seat post and it wont barge a millimeter. the bike is almost done but the seat post stops me in my way.
Have you tried vinegar pour it down the seat post let it sit overnight put it in a bench vice and it will brake free make sure you tape it off though.👍
Been there, done that. It took me weeks to get it out. The alloy had fused with the steel frame. I had to saw and chisel it out. There's still a bit left in the frame. So much pain.
Oh boy. Right after graduation I worked at an engineering college. I purchased a bike from the police auction with a stuck post like that. I worked an hour a day in the machine shop with a drill and a rat tail file. It took 3 weeks to get that seat post out. When I was done the machinist asked how much a bike without a stuck post would have been. Good learning discussions were had
I found blow torches to work best. They tend to heat up the seat post way more than a heat gun and bbs, seatposts or forks come out so quickly and easily. I`ve been giving up on my favourite frame, rode it with a stuck bottom bracket and I've been so happy the day I finally got it out - without any harm and sweat - just by the use of a blow torch.
I did that as well. It worked fine. But it was an aluminium fame. Since the temperature coefficient of aluminium (frame) and steel (bottom bracket) are largely different, the frame will expand more. Hence the BB will become lose. With steel on steel, or even an aluminium seat post in a steel frame that probably does not work.
Awesome video and awesome opportunities for you, man! I mean, it's every bike geek's secret dream to get to travel to new places, work alongside Calvin & Truman, show off your work to the guy that is responsible for the bike being manufactured in the first place, and then present it to a non-profit back home as a fundraiser. Okay, well maybe ALL of that isn't every bike geek's secret dream, because who could've dreamt all of that up for one sub-20 minute video??? Another cool bike build and another great job of documenting it.
That's the true nightmare of any mechanic !!! I still got a rare CroMo frame from Bogner Racing with a seized seat post ... wish me luck to get it out of there 😂. Nice work Oldshovel !
Adding to all the others who've shared ideas... I had a stuck carbon fiber post in an aluminum frame. There had been a chemical reaction that bonded both in place really tightly. I used citric acid drops around the insert point to soak/seap down into the spaces around the seatpost inside the frame. That helped break the chemical bond. Then I used repeated rounds of nearly boiling hot water over the seat tube to create a gentle expansion of the aluminum. After a lot of that and multiple rounds of trying to wiggle the post, it finally broke free after like 45 minutes. I was able to save the frame and not damage the paint with a torch while still doing the job of adding the necessary heat. The seatpost came out in one piece too.
@@oldshovel Thanks! I can't take credit for it. I found it searching online. Some engineer type who loves to wrench explained that it has something to do with the two different types of materials and how they both oxidize. I'd been using citric acid to remove rust oxidation on bike parts, so figured it was worth a try. Lo and behold, it worked great! Thanks for all your great videos!
Chris Chance could have been more excited. The fire in his heart seems out. Maybe he is just low key but if your at trade exposition you have to turn it on at least. I think oldshovel has be part of a restoration bike hobby for a older generation and thats great.
Belíssima bike. É parabéns pela sua ajuda no trabalho comunitário. Projetos como esse são ainda mais importantes. Obrigado e continue sempre seu trabalho artístico
Hi Old Shovel, I often wonder how you determine the correct chain length. Would be awesome if you elaborate this in one of your videos. Thanks for the awesome content, you have been an inspiration for me to rebuild old bicycles in my family!
It sounds counter-intuitive but if you were to give that seatpost a whack towards the frame rather than away from the frame you’d have a much better chance of breaking the seized seal. I did this with a wicked frame once. Post moved a fraction of a MM which was enough to work out out with the vice.
Wowww! That seat post was a really stuck in there, glad you got it out. I thought mine was stuck but it was no where near as bad as yours!! Great to see it saved ! I was surprised how light the frame was all the welds/joins were spot on. Fat chance makes great bikes. Nice work on the resto 👍
I was having flashbacks to my past adventures and disasters with stuck seat posts. So far, I've been successful every time except the time that the screw driver punched through the seatpost on an otherwise really nice Rockhopper. What a nightmare! Great work on rescuing that frame, Rob! -Mike's Bikes Work
I had one that took me 4 days to get off last summer. I ended up using heat and pounding it down with a rubber mallet. I ended up moving it up about 1/2 inch at a time. Each session took me about an hour.
I’ve removed no less than a dozen severely stuck posts. Lay the frame on the ground flat (on grass), take the pipe wrench and put a pipe on it for leverage, stand on the frame and push down with leverage.. I use a four foot pipe for leverage. Sometimes I’ll have someone stand on the frame so I can concentrate on the pipe wrench.
If you take a can of duster spray and hold it upside down while spraying it will instantly freeze anything in front of it . I would try heating the steel seat tube as you did then freezing the inside of the seat post next time . Just a thought , love your videos .
Gallium...what a concept! I know that lye will do a similar number on aluminum posts, without harming the steel. Been in the same situation and I really hate it when an otherwise good post has to be sacrificed. It leaves me feeling defeated.
Yeah, Gallium. Spindatt Eric did a video about that. It is better than lye, because it wont destroy the paint. But it is kinda expensive, if you can get it at all.
Me neither. But, as soon as I saw the vial, I knew what he was up to. It's a strange molecular reaction that causes solid aluminum to become crumbly. The whole idea is inspired! DON'T use it anywhere near an aluminum frame, though!
WOW! What a GREAT Work! It remembers me trying to repair my brother's old bmx bike to his daughter. The worst problem is 20 years forgotten in my farher's barn, with no caution at all. So rust has made its appearance... hopefully, it is a really hard bike. Let's hope I can unmount completely! Now i'm at wheel status.. (trying to recover them... I don't know if I should change spokes... not rusty at all)
Great vid. I was "listening" to the banging as I was trying to remove a wire-bead 30tpi tire from a MTB wheel to convert to tubeless...bead was able to get a perfect lock between the J hook and the rim tape and would not budge...ended up separating one side with a vice, and the other only came out after I destroyed and pulled out the rim tape to creat that much tiny of space...two wheels, took about 2 hours before I decided that something had to be sacrificed. No Rims, Inner Tubes or Tires were destroyed in the making of all these sweaty spots.
I had a post that was seized on a tandem. I drilled a hole and put a solid steel bar through and with a lot of cursing and anti rust spray I got it out. First by rotating it a few times and then with pulling.
When I have one that stuck I take the seat post water bottle cage bolts out, turn the frame upside down, then soak the inside of the seat post tube overnight with your favoeite penetrating oil. then, clamp a pipe wrench in your vise THEN hook your seat post in the wrench and twist the frame. also, would help a lot if you could get your vise bolted down solid. GREAT video as always - good work sir
Ι use diesel injected with the frame upsidedown from the bb straight to the seat tube.leave it for a night or so..and if still resist drill the seat post to insert horizontally a long lever in hole and turn...its always working..regards from a vintage mtb collector from far away Greece
Nice build as always! What type of Bottom Bracket is that? My Panasonic Mountain Cat is also threadless and has a cup and ball bearings, the diameter of the BB shell is larger that those Shimano BB that fit most bikes. I'm lucky that it doesn't need replacing yet.
Luckily the one I have a seat problem with is about the perfect height for me I've tried all my normal tricks pb blaster. the pipe wrench that I even hammered on that a little I've never been stumped that one got me. For now.
Beautiful bike!! You did a great work. Did you ever think about using two-component spray cans for painting? They are much more durable than normal cans and you don't need to apply transparent finish.
Graet idea with the Gallium. When I was in this situation i used sodium hydroxide solution which solves aluminum but not steal, and it is more accessible than pure Gallium.
I battled three hours yesterday with a Ritchey Ascent frame. My post is broken flush. What was the liquid you heated and then poured into the seat tube? Love your videos!
Well it's the first time I've seen a toxic metal to get a seatpost out!☣️ If you come across stuck seatposts a lot, I recommend building/buying a seatpost removing jig. Basically you push the seatpost out via two hefty tubes e.g scaffolding pipe either side of seatpost linked together at one end through an old set of BB cups and a rod, going up to the seatpost end (anchored at seatpost via various methods). And some screwing mechanism at the top. It looks pretty effective and saves all that agro. You can apply a lot of force to get the seatpost out, mm by mm. Another technique is a slide hammer. From videos on yt that works pretty well too. If you're going to clamp a cut tube in the vice, put an expendable lump of metal e.g. a socket to support the tube otherwise it will inevitably get crumpled and useless for leverage. I'm currently working on one method with a stuck post. Got the frame inverted and I've filled the seat tube with an equivalent to wd40 . I'm going to leave it a week, give it some heat occasionally, and see how it goes! If that doesn't work I'll try with releasing agent.
A year ago I restored a TREK "MetroTrack" and converted it into a fixie/single speed bike. Just like in your case I had to saw off the seat post just above the frame and then slit it at two points open lengthwise with a saber saw, but after that it came out 😩. Aluminum oxide and iron oxide seemed to react with each other, so that both parts were as if welded...
My favorite seized seatpost story; 24 hour soak with WD40. Bike was stripped of most other parts, but BB and cranks were in still. Seatpost was decided to be a throwaway and got clamped into a bench vice. Heavy action on the post with a propane torch, a little bit on the frame, too. Two mechanics grab the frame and start levering on it. It starts moving. Slowly at first, then slowly all the way to the end. There was a lot of friction. When the post finally came free, and oxygen reached the superheated WD40, a 16 inch jet of flame shot out of the seat tube. It was glorious. I would use the same technique again, but just pull the BB to prevent a "framethrower" incident.
Awesome story 🙌
"Framethrower" is an amazingly good misuse of the english language. 😂
I so enjoy working on bikes, cleaning, lubricating, fixing - just making them better! Especially for kids, or big kids! You make it look so much easier than it is. Love watching your videos.
Thanks 🙏
I'd have kept the XT Thumbshifters, but GORGEOUS!
And not one swear. OS is a man of inner calm.
Lol. This one did test that inner calm. 😂🙌 there was no swearing though.
A Fat Chance??!? Legendary! Keep up the awesome work! What you do for the bike community is inspiring.
Thanks 🙏
After stripping the bottom bracket, invert the bicycle. Fill the seat tube with Oxalic Acid. Let it sit in a well-ventilated area for ten days. Drain the acid out and rinse the bicycle with water. The acid dissolves the chemical bond between the steel frame and the aluminum seat post.
I would NEVER have thought of using Gallium to screw with the post!.. great idea!.. my frame was aluminium though .. probably not the best idea to do this with a alu frame tbh!..lol..
My Cannondale F1000 had a snapped seatpost when I bought it (got it ridiculously cheap b'cos of this) .. but it was just below (like 1-2 mm) the seat-tube opening.. 05:57.. this looks VERY similar!.. I had MONTHS of messing around..trying not to damage the frame.. I got hold of one of those "single sided" hacksaws.. Padsaw i think its called.. and started gently sawing away.. cut out 2 lines opposite each other till i was close to the frame.. then just swapped sides after a few "saws" and POOF..or POP..out it flew.. hardest thing I've ever had to fix on a bike..it wasn't going ANYWHERE..litterally snapped on the other fella who tried to get it moving..thing was STUCK!.. it's starting to come together now though.. I ADORE this frame tbh.
I bought my wicked in 88 and felt that it was the ultimate Mtn. Bike. I don’t understand how people let a nice bike ever get to that kind of deteriorated state.
WOW! I've never seen anything seized to that extent through galvanization. Loved your use of gallium on the aluminum post remnants. Thanks for sharing!
Currently fighting a seat post in a '90 GT all terra, came here for motivation! Hopefully will win the fight soon!
Great work on that bike, that collective is lucky to have you!
Did you win? 😀 Just been given a gt timberline for free. Just get the seatpost out, new bb and cranks and it's mission accomplished.
Had similar on a used old frame several years back and saw a forum post advising to use caustic soda as it just eats aluminium. I left it a few hours and there was nothing remaining of the post in the morning. Was great, as had been tearing my hair out. Heat and large amounts of penetrating fluid did nothing.
I've also done this with a stem to great success.
Been there, tried all that. Chemistry works the best!
Disposing of or neutralizing caustic soda seems easier than to get rid of gallium.
I've had great luck with ammonia on an alloy post in steel frame.
Another great job, I love your ethos of sharing and repairing and helping so many other people 👍
thank you for what you do for others. for no matter where there from or who they are. thank you
thanks for getting me into old steel hardtails and teaching me so much about mtb service!
Awesome
@@oldshovelI just picked up an ‘85 fat chance kicker for $50 cad
ohh now I have to go in the basement and work on that Trek frame with a seized post too, thanks a lot!! haha. another beautiful restore cool to see the 'live' rebuild
Awesome new life given to that sweet old bike... The floor of the Old Shovel shop must be its own work of art from the blending of all the cool paint colors you've used for the rebuilds over the years...
Lol actually one thing I like about the spray.bike paint is that it drys to a powder about 18 inches out of the can (ideal spray distance is less than 6”. So after a paint job I just sweep up.
@@oldshovel Whoa that's really cool - never knew that could be a characteristic of a paint that could also be resilient enough to use on a bike frame... I've learned lots from this video !
Thankyou for what you do, I am currently living this seatpost hell on a old Giant. You have re-inspired me.
That seatpost removal is me trying to shake my college's alumni association's mailing list.
Removing the seat post was like pulling teeth. But good things take time. Ingo sends a happy Easter from Germany.🚴👍
Gallium ... what a great Idea. I have a 1993 Marin Bear Valley SE in my Barn .. Nowadays totally stripped for Parts but with a Setpost that Stuck even the Frame is sucked on like Shrink Tube. I never won't to let it go and throw it away. Now i know a new Route to go. Thanks alot
It takes more work than it looks like in the video but it did work. The Gallic process took most of a day, letting it sit for a couple hours between “soakings” and chipping. Good luck.
Awesome job. Love to see the old bikes I remember brought back to life. Love the colors. Total 80s-90s.
Advocating for better bike infrastructure is also a great way to help those who get around on bike as transportation. Be it kids, those who can’t drive, or afford to drive, and everyone else! :)
for aluminum/steel galvanic corrosion i always go pretty quickly to the reciprocating saw and cut the top then the inside.
It is usually the only way since it is almost like it's welded.
Puts less stress on the frame you just have to be careful to only cut the seatpost.
After trying everything else bar the blowtorch, I had to get similarly mediaeval on a campag chorus carbon post which had welded itself into a very expensive carbon frame. Thankfully it worked and with no (apparent) damage.
Think you might test the seat post first before picking a bike out? Watching Spindatt last year scared me and a lifetime as an industrial mechanic have me leary of extra wrenching and heating. Great work for a fantastic organization. Rather than collect the big parts bin, your channel has inspired me to pass on working spares and take-offs to Boulder area coop since I don’t have one in my area.
Honestly i feel you on this one. have a 1996 karakoram with a stuck seat post and it wont barge a millimeter. the bike is almost done but the seat post stops me in my way.
Have you tried vinegar pour it down the seat post let it sit overnight put it in a bench vice and it will brake free make sure you tape it off though.👍
@@cstaff4773 no I haven't, but I can't put it in a vice anymore. But I will pour vinegar in it and smash it.
Been there, done that. It took me weeks to get it out. The alloy had fused with the steel frame. I had to saw and chisel it out. There's still a bit left in the frame. So much pain.
12:12 epic crossover moment haha Great video also thank you
Oh boy. Right after graduation I worked at an engineering college. I purchased a bike from the police auction with a stuck post like that.
I worked an hour a day in the machine shop with a drill and a rat tail file. It took 3 weeks to get that seat post out. When I was done the machinist asked how much a bike without a stuck post would have been. Good learning discussions were had
I found blow torches to work best. They tend to heat up the seat post way more than a heat gun and bbs, seatposts or forks come out so quickly and easily. I`ve been giving up on my favourite frame, rode it with a stuck bottom bracket and I've been so happy the day I finally got it out - without any harm and sweat - just by the use of a blow torch.
I did that as well. It worked fine. But it was an aluminium fame. Since the temperature coefficient of aluminium (frame) and steel (bottom bracket) are largely different, the frame will expand more. Hence the BB will become lose. With steel on steel, or even an aluminium seat post in a steel frame that probably does not work.
@@martimcfly6207 In my case: It did. I think all these approaches really contain some luck in every case. :)
@@jerrys.projects good to hear. Maybe the expanding and shrinking also helps to loosen the bond between steel and steel. If it works, it works
Awesome video and awesome opportunities for you, man! I mean, it's every bike geek's secret dream to get to travel to new places, work alongside Calvin & Truman, show off your work to the guy that is responsible for the bike being manufactured in the first place, and then present it to a non-profit back home as a fundraiser. Okay, well maybe ALL of that isn't every bike geek's secret dream, because who could've dreamt all of that up for one sub-20 minute video??? Another cool bike build and another great job of documenting it.
It was cool how it all worked out.
@@oldshovel I bet that it was. Enjoy the videos.
I felt like a bit of a geek at @12:19 when I thought I recognized Calvin!
I had NEVER seen a seatpost this bad, thanks for showing (and warning about) this!!
Love the way bikes look when it's just handle bars and and some wheels they just look so cool to me
Nice job removing the seatpost, got one like that waiting for me in the shop like for half a year now 😁
That's the true nightmare of any mechanic !!! I still got a rare CroMo frame from Bogner Racing with a seized seat post ... wish me luck to get it out of there 😂. Nice work Oldshovel !
the reaction from the chance guy though.. little did he know the patience, love, and effort that went into that previously condemned bike..
Love what you're saying. I work at a shop, but I don't charge for simple things. It's amazing that we think alike.
Probably my fav build yet!
Adding to all the others who've shared ideas... I had a stuck carbon fiber post in an aluminum frame. There had been a chemical reaction that bonded both in place really tightly. I used citric acid drops around the insert point to soak/seap down into the spaces around the seatpost inside the frame. That helped break the chemical bond. Then I used repeated rounds of nearly boiling hot water over the seat tube to create a gentle expansion of the aluminum. After a lot of that and multiple rounds of trying to wiggle the post, it finally broke free after like 45 minutes. I was able to save the frame and not damage the paint with a torch while still doing the job of adding the necessary heat. The seatpost came out in one piece too.
Interesting. I haven’t heard of that technique.
@@oldshovel Thanks! I can't take credit for it. I found it searching online. Some engineer type who loves to wrench explained that it has something to do with the two different types of materials and how they both oxidize. I'd been using citric acid to remove rust oxidation on bike parts, so figured it was worth a try. Lo and behold, it worked great! Thanks for all your great videos!
thats why i maintained my bikes because of your videos ❤ gdblss you man mad respect on your builds ❤😊❤
Chris Chance could have been more excited. The fire in his heart seems out. Maybe he is just low key but if your at trade exposition you have to turn it on at least. I think oldshovel has be part of a restoration bike hobby for a older generation and thats great.
He was actually really great to talk to. The clip doesn’t do him justice.
Belíssima bike. É parabéns pela sua ajuda no trabalho comunitário. Projetos como esse são ainda mais importantes. Obrigado e continue sempre seu trabalho artístico
Hi Old Shovel,
I often wonder how you determine the correct chain length. Would be awesome if you elaborate this in one of your videos.
Thanks for the awesome content, you have been an inspiration for me to rebuild old bicycles in my family!
The fact that I have recently found a 93 Rockhopper, with seized seatpost and this video came out makes me wanna cry
It sounds counter-intuitive but if you were to give that seatpost a whack towards the frame rather than away from the frame you’d have a much better chance of breaking the seized seal. I did this with a wicked frame once. Post moved a fraction of a MM which was enough to work out out with the vice.
I did try that, I’ve had it work before also. This was definitely the worst I’ve ever dealt with. I spent way more time trying then I showed.
@@oldshovel Salt Lake and Aluminum do not play well together.
I am in awe how you remained 'family friendly' during the lengthy process of seat post removal.
ah...it's called editing...lol
Love, when an Oldshovel video comes out an a sunny day :)
Awesome
That's a wicked paint job. You brought that bike back to life
Wowww! That seat post was a really stuck in there, glad you got it out. I thought mine was stuck but it was no where near as bad as yours!! Great to see it saved ! I was surprised how light the frame was all the welds/joins were spot on. Fat chance makes great bikes. Nice work on the resto 👍
Thanks my friend. It was a rough one to get out. I’ve had some bad ones but not this bad. 🙌
Love the new colorway on this.
Thanks
Great to see a master craftsman at work.
Wow, I feel you man. I had a stubborn seatpost last year I had to take a blowtorch to.
This is a gourgeous bike. Astonishing. Bravo! 👍
You can rot an alloy post out with caustic soda.
I was having flashbacks to my past adventures and disasters with stuck seat posts. So far, I've been successful every time except the time that the screw driver punched through the seatpost on an otherwise really nice Rockhopper. What a nightmare! Great work on rescuing that frame, Rob! -Mike's Bikes Work
Finish Line Products has a spray for that kind of seizing
I had one that took me 4 days to get off last summer. I ended up using heat and pounding it down with a rubber mallet. I ended up moving it up about 1/2 inch at a time. Each session took me about an hour.
I’ve removed no less than a dozen severely stuck posts. Lay the frame on the ground flat (on grass), take the pipe wrench and put a pipe on it for leverage, stand on the frame and push down with leverage.. I use a four foot pipe for leverage. Sometimes I’ll have someone stand on the frame so I can concentrate on the pipe wrench.
If you take a can of duster spray and hold it upside down while spraying it will instantly freeze anything in front of it . I would try heating the steel seat tube as you did then freezing the inside of the seat post next time . Just a thought , love your videos .
Grande trabalho! A bike ficou linda, parabéns.
Gallium...what a concept! I know that lye will do a similar number on aluminum posts, without harming the steel. Been in the same situation and I really hate it when an otherwise good post has to be sacrificed. It leaves me feeling defeated.
Is that what that stuff was?! Seemed to work, I've not seen that method before!
Yeah, Gallium. Spindatt Eric did a video about that. It is better than lye, because it wont destroy the paint. But it is kinda expensive, if you can get it at all.
Me neither. But, as soon as I saw the vial, I knew what he was up to. It's a strange molecular reaction that causes solid aluminum to become crumbly. The whole idea is inspired! DON'T use it anywhere near an aluminum frame, though!
Yep I saw Eric Spinny do it and tried it out.
Is that Calvin @12:13? So much good work put into this rebuild!!
Yep
WOW! What a GREAT Work! It remembers me trying to repair my brother's old bmx bike to his daughter. The worst problem is 20 years forgotten in my farher's barn, with no caution at all. So rust has made its appearance... hopefully, it is a really hard bike. Let's hope I can unmount completely! Now i'm at wheel status.. (trying to recover them... I don't know if I should change spokes... not rusty at all)
Great vid. I was "listening" to the banging as I was trying to remove a wire-bead 30tpi tire from a MTB wheel to convert to tubeless...bead was able to get a perfect lock between the J hook and the rim tape and would not budge...ended up separating one side with a vice, and the other only came out after I destroyed and pulled out the rim tape to creat that much tiny of space...two wheels, took about 2 hours before I decided that something had to be sacrificed. No Rims, Inner Tubes or Tires were destroyed in the making of all these sweaty spots.
On these old frames, do you usually check the derailleur hanger alignment before you start bolting on the derailleur?
Super cool seeing that gallium work!
12:12 the parktool guy😊🍻
I had a post that was seized on a tandem. I drilled a hole and put a solid steel bar through and with a lot of cursing and anti rust spray I got it out. First by rotating it a few times and then with pulling.
When I have one that stuck I take the seat post water bottle cage bolts out, turn the frame upside down, then soak the inside of the seat post tube overnight with your favoeite penetrating oil. then, clamp a pipe wrench in your vise THEN hook your seat post in the wrench and twist the frame. also, would help a lot if you could get your vise bolted down solid. GREAT video as always - good work sir
stellar job mate! I watched this entire video with a big fat smile on my face :D
Ι use diesel injected with the frame upsidedown from the bb straight to the seat tube.leave it for a night or so..and if still resist drill the seat post to insert horizontally a long lever in hole and turn...its always working..regards from a vintage mtb collector from far away Greece
Awesome restoration old shovel keep up the good work
Love your videos Sir! All done for the love of cycling. Keep up the great work!
Nice build as always!
What type of Bottom Bracket is that? My Panasonic Mountain Cat is also threadless and has a cup and ball bearings, the diameter of the BB shell is larger that those Shimano BB that fit most bikes. I'm lucky that it doesn't need replacing yet.
Amigo. Excelente trabajo. Felicitaciones. Un saludo desde Mérida Venezuela. ✌🏼
Luckily the one I have a seat problem with is about the perfect height for me I've tried all my normal tricks pb blaster. the pipe wrench that I even hammered on that a little I've never been stumped that one got me. For now.
12:13 My man Calvin Jones. The Legend.
Beautiful bike!! You did a great work. Did you ever think about using two-component spray cans for painting? They are much more durable than normal cans and you don't need to apply transparent finish.
I use the two hacksaw cuts method 'cos I like not being able to feel the tip of my index finger for a month . Nice work sir.
Very nice refurbished bike and new build. What was the silvery liquid you used to finally help get the old seat post out?
I've cut a seat post out of a lovely 531 Pearson road frame before. Such a headache!
Oh that brings back so many memories (bad ones). Pretty much exactly the same process I followed.
Dang, extraordinary efforts to remove that seat post, I'm impressed. Well done 👍.
Graet idea with the Gallium. When I was in this situation i used sodium hydroxide solution which solves aluminum but not steal, and it is more accessible than pure Gallium.
I battled three hours yesterday with a Ritchey Ascent frame. My post is broken flush.
What was the liquid you heated and then poured into the seat tube?
Love your videos!
What seatpost was that? Mine is always slipping, maybe I should get one of these
I see u finally went with the Spindatt post removal technique.
🙌 Eric is awesome. Perhaps my favorite bike TH-cam channel. @spindatt
Thank you for for everything you do! You are great man!
Well it's the first time I've seen a toxic metal to get a seatpost out!☣️
If you come across stuck seatposts a lot, I recommend building/buying a seatpost removing jig. Basically you push the seatpost out via two hefty tubes e.g scaffolding pipe either side of seatpost linked together at one end through an old set of BB cups and a rod, going up to the seatpost end (anchored at seatpost via various methods). And some screwing mechanism at the top.
It looks pretty effective and saves all that agro. You can apply a lot of force to get the seatpost out, mm by mm.
Another technique is a slide hammer. From videos on yt that works pretty well too.
If you're going to clamp a cut tube in the vice, put an expendable lump of metal e.g. a socket to support the tube otherwise it will inevitably get crumpled and useless for leverage.
I'm currently working on one method with a stuck post. Got the frame inverted and I've filled the seat tube with an equivalent to wd40 . I'm going to leave it a week, give it some heat occasionally, and see how it goes! If that doesn't work I'll try with releasing agent.
Very nice bike. Great job!
Thanks
Gorgeous build! 👍
Hi!
I love ur videos and am a amateur bike restorer myself! Just wondering, why don't you use paint stripper instead of sanding it down?
Does park tool make a dead-blow hammer that expands below the seatpost for this type of job?
Nice colour 😁👌 love the work
A year ago I restored a TREK "MetroTrack" and converted it into a fixie/single speed bike. Just like in your case I had to saw off the seat post just above the frame and then slit it at two points open lengthwise with a saber saw, but after that it came out 😩. Aluminum oxide and iron oxide seemed to react with each other, so that both parts were as if welded...
awesome, this will save me and my koga.
How much gallium do you recommend me to order (not cheap the stuff) ? 20 g enough?
Great video Rob
If you were around 30+ years ago, those Fat Chance's were coolest of the cool.
Wow, pulled out almost every tool in the shop on that seat post and not a single swear!
Lol I’m not big on cursing but this definitely tried my patience. What’s not on is I worked on this seat post on and off for over a month. 😁