Something that needs to be mentioned, if the oil cooler is what controls how much oil goes into a horizontal or vertical shaft engine, something you need to remember that part is interchangeable between the two engines and it's found on both.
Maybe a oil tank below engine that holds the oil and a electric pump that shoots the oil through a orfice threaded into the (was bottom) of the block thats pointed towards the bottom of crank and connecting rod and it will sling the oil throughout. Essentially a dry sump oil system.
As a machinist. It is possible to elongate the entier cover so it is deeper and put the bearing boss's in the correct places and heights with the correct tolerances so you dont even need to use a bearing. You need a +or- 1 guy lol of course this would mean a complete billet pan.
I appreciate the confirmation. Another viewer had the input to order a second china side cover have it milled flat on the outside then sandwich it. This idea so far seems the most doable on a budget to me.
@@redneckcomputergeek agreed. But you still have the bearing issue. If the cam does still sit in the bore it wont be much at all. You really need that full contact area to support the cam. You would still have to modify the current cover to accept a standoff to hold a bearing for the cam. And the lip on the crank that rides the seal is a hole nother story
you could use a suzuki m120x engine, commonly found in toro ccr2000 snowblowers. they can turn 6000+ stock, and 7500 with port work. they have a motorcycle style crankshaft, with as forged rod. indestructable...
I wonder if you could use a map gas torch/oxyacetylene torch and fill the oil plugs with a brazing rod and tap them for a regular pipe plug that could run the oil cooler on one side or a drain.
For a drain, just use a fitting in the valve cover and run a hose to the block cover. If you have honda cover there is a fitting that has the same threads as the dipstick and a hose barb on the other side. Fitting, search for "Metric M20X2.5 Male to 3/4" barb"
As far as a spacer you could take a square picture of the pan import to cad scale it with known dimensions cad out the spacers and order it cut from the correct thickness from send cut send or osh cut willing to help if needed
One problem spacing the cam would change where the lobes touch on lifters if the lobes didn't hit case they would unevenly hit lifters and probably bend them causing the big boom 💥 then 😭
So what your saying is it'll run better when low on oil 😂😂😂 im kidding but seriously though if that cam gear is say ¼ of the way covered in oil (so it reduces resistance from splashing in too much oil) while extending the oil splasher and moving the sump or oil pump (what have you ) from the side to the bottom with a rubber hose going up the side of the NEW side of the engine( the old bottom ) so it sprays oil up and on the cam , would that work ??? Reason im asking is because i am in the beginning stages of converting the BS 20hp intek off a craftsman LT1000 from a vertical to a horizontal shaft for one of my gocarts.... If its not possible or well not worth it then i have several other options like a 15hp sideshaft , 2 different gy6150's ( one is already on it already and runs fine but i want more power) and then again i have many other smalll motors to try but im also in the process of building a polaris-6000 68/63 440 two stroke to put on my other gocart but im not a patient person😂😂😂😂 so im going through motors trying to figure out whats the most reliable vs more powerful=more fun but for longer 😂 motors while my 440 is being built .... Im eventually going to put the 440 polaris6000 on it but im trying to find other fast snd powerful motors to play with on my other ones in the meantime... So once again can i not just extend the sump hose to spray the cam and run a little less oil for les resistance or no ?? Edit : autocorrect either changes things or it doesnt do anything at all 😂
Pretty big challenge. I'd imagine oil level needs to be below the cylinder also. If not, the oil would get past the rings hydrolock the piston and also burn if you do get it started.
Look for a vertical shaft sump off a Chinesium engine from a log splitter or push mower . That said even if you machine a spacer it would need to be done from a billet of aluminum on a CNC machine or fabricated in a welding shop then machined . Then you have to address the crankshaft being too short . Can you make a horizontal engine run in a vertical position ? Absolutely , for how long or how much power that's the question . Now if you used an old school Briggs or Tecumseh I don't think you'd have a problem . Now what's machine work and fab work cost ? plus materials Just rebuild that crusty old Briggs motor on the floor and re drill it to raise the oil pressure and it won't explode if you change the head gasket frequently and keep the oil full .
I think you're running into more problems than it's worth doing. I hope it works out for you. I have a challenge if you are interested. Turning a four-stroke Briggs into a 2 stroke engine.
I’ve been thinking of making a mod motor like u did expect I wanna put some new parts for performance now I have a question if I where to put stiffer valve spring could I run it like that or would I have to put roller rockers and a stiffer rod. I’m also going to buy a 3D printer to do like u did
The limiter on these tends to be the rob and the cam to start with before springs matter. Heavy springs are to prevent valve float on a bigger cam lobe. The stock spring will work into higher RPM then the rod can survive. This is why once I get it running in vertical it will end up with a NR Racing stage 2 kit to hit over 6k RPM.
@Redneck Mowers no worries I belive you. Can do it and good idea long term are to entirely different things. The duromax dragster hits 6800rpm on stock internals. But only for the 30 seconds of race time. Held at that for hours the rod would say goodbye eventually.
Pardon me in a previous video you where going to use old gas to kill dandelions did you know you can eat the leaves pick them rinse them boil them with ham and beans and since you mentioned corn have cornbread with it. That was one of the meals I had as a kid. The beans that where used had to be soaked in salt water over night and I think there called northern beans I think don't quote me on that I was only a kid then I'm 55 now.
![ลองสั่งของจากแอพ temu ถูกจริงหรอ?? ( part : 1/2 ) [โกงไหมครับ ep.89 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RTcZSQTiDZw/mqdefault.jpg)
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My 21 hp Briggs and Stratton is 13 years old. Never had a problem with it . She still mows like a champ.
Any engine could do that. im assuming you just use it for your own yard. if you ask a lawn service they'll tell you what's actually good
Something that needs to be mentioned, if the oil cooler is what controls how much oil goes into a horizontal or vertical shaft engine, something you need to remember that part is interchangeable between the two engines and it's found on both.
Maybe a oil tank below engine that holds the oil and a electric pump that shoots the oil through a orfice threaded into the (was bottom) of the block thats pointed towards the bottom of crank and connecting rod and it will sling the oil throughout. Essentially a dry sump oil system.
As a machinist. It is possible to elongate the entier cover so it is deeper and put the bearing boss's in the correct places and heights with the correct tolerances so you dont even need to use a bearing. You need a +or- 1 guy lol of course this would mean a complete billet pan.
I appreciate the confirmation. Another viewer had the input to order a second china side cover have it milled flat on the outside then sandwich it. This idea so far seems the most doable on a budget to me.
@@redneckcomputergeek agreed. But you still have the bearing issue. If the cam does still sit in the bore it wont be much at all. You really need that full contact area to support the cam. You would still have to modify the current cover to accept a standoff to hold a bearing for the cam. And the lip on the crank that rides the seal is a hole nother story
I do understand it is a test project engine. Also so what ever way you go is cool.
Power steering pump as oil pump might work, and it'll work without 12v power or charging systemp
you could use a suzuki m120x engine, commonly found in toro ccr2000 snowblowers. they can turn 6000+ stock, and 7500 with port work. they have a motorcycle style crankshaft, with as forged rod. indestructable...
I wonder if you could use a map gas torch/oxyacetylene torch and fill the oil plugs with a brazing rod and tap them for a regular pipe plug that could run the oil cooler on one side or a drain.
For a drain, just use a fitting in the valve cover and run a hose to the block cover. If you have honda cover there is a fitting that has the same threads as the dipstick and a hose barb on the other side.
Fitting, search for "Metric M20X2.5 Male to 3/4" barb"
As far as a spacer you could take a square picture of the pan import to cad scale it with known dimensions cad out the spacers and order it cut from the correct thickness from send cut send or osh cut willing to help if needed
That is a great idea! I could even test print in PLA plastic to be sure then send it in.
Rtv black, (good stuff gasket maker). Thanks! Appreciate you videos.
One problem spacing the cam would change where the lobes touch on lifters if the lobes didn't hit case they would unevenly hit lifters and probably bend them causing the big boom 💥 then 😭
So what your saying is it'll run better when low on oil 😂😂😂 im kidding but seriously though if that cam gear is say ¼ of the way covered in oil (so it reduces resistance from splashing in too much oil) while extending the oil splasher and moving the sump or oil pump (what have you ) from the side to the bottom with a rubber hose going up the side of the NEW side of the engine( the old bottom ) so it sprays oil up and on the cam , would that work ??? Reason im asking is because i am in the beginning stages of converting the BS 20hp intek off a craftsman LT1000 from a vertical to a horizontal shaft for one of my gocarts.... If its not possible or well not worth it then i have several other options like a 15hp sideshaft , 2 different gy6150's ( one is already on it already and runs fine but i want more power) and then again i have many other smalll motors to try but im also in the process of building a polaris-6000 68/63 440 two stroke to put on my other gocart but im not a patient person😂😂😂😂 so im going through motors trying to figure out whats the most reliable vs more powerful=more fun but for longer 😂 motors while my 440 is being built .... Im eventually going to put the 440 polaris6000 on it but im trying to find other fast snd powerful motors to play with on my other ones in the meantime... So once again can i not just extend the sump hose to spray the cam and run a little less oil for les resistance or no ??
Edit : autocorrect either changes things or it doesnt do anything at all 😂
Thank you for the video
Kohler makes an old flat head that's universal you just need to change the carb
Pretty big challenge. I'd imagine oil level needs to be below the cylinder also. If not, the oil would get past the rings hydrolock the piston and also burn if you do get it started.
Good point. When I take off the side cover I will be sure to measure the height stock vers on its side.
@@redneckcomputergeek great video john - (PS -ck your email/spam - i sent a quick Q)
dry sump oil system with a pump would be easier than trying to extend the pan.
Look for a vertical shaft sump off a Chinesium engine from a log splitter or push mower . That said even if you machine a spacer it would need to be done from a billet of aluminum on a CNC machine or fabricated in a welding shop then machined . Then you have to address the crankshaft being too short . Can you make a horizontal engine run in a vertical position ? Absolutely , for how long or how much power that's the question . Now if you used an old school Briggs or Tecumseh I don't think you'd have a problem . Now what's machine work and fab work cost ? plus materials
Just rebuild that crusty old Briggs motor on the floor and re drill it to raise the oil pressure and it won't explode if you change the head gasket frequently and keep the oil full .
What is the difference in the oiling in 19-21 hp engines and the lower hp engines?
I think you're running into more problems than it's worth doing. I hope it works out for you. I have a challenge if you are interested. Turning a four-stroke Briggs into a 2 stroke engine.
I’ve been thinking of making a mod motor like u did expect I wanna put some new parts for performance now I have a question if I where to put stiffer valve spring could I run it like that or would I have to put roller rockers and a stiffer rod. I’m also going to buy a 3D printer to do like u did
The limiter on these tends to be the rob and the cam to start with before springs matter. Heavy springs are to prevent valve float on a bigger cam lobe. The stock spring will work into higher RPM then the rod can survive. This is why once I get it running in vertical it will end up with a NR Racing stage 2 kit to hit over 6k RPM.
@@redneckcomputergeek not bad ok was wondering and I have a motor that went over 7k stock I can send u a pic on messenger if u want
@Redneck Mowers no worries I belive you. Can do it and good idea long term are to entirely different things. The duromax dragster hits 6800rpm on stock internals. But only for the 30 seconds of race time. Held at that for hours the rod would say goodbye eventually.
@@redneckcomputergeek sick
Pardon me in a previous video you where going to use old gas to kill dandelions did you know you can eat the leaves pick them rinse them boil them with ham and beans and since you mentioned corn have cornbread with it. That was one of the meals I had as a kid. The beans that where used had to be soaked in salt water over night and I think there called northern beans I think don't quote me on that I was only a kid then I'm 55 now.
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