Everything about this fix is excellently explained and demonstrated. But this would be a little trickier with insulation commonly found in hollow walls.
That was my immediate thought, in the setting of newer homes or recently renovated homes. the cavity between studs typically will have insulation and will not be this bare. Just for all to keep in mind.
Nice tip mate . Not so easy if the wall is rammed full of class fibre insulation or rockwool ( sound proofing & heat insulation ) , a requirement in the uk .
Really depends on which wall it is in the US. If it is an exteriar wall then you will find all sorts of insulation material. The interior walls will be more empty but you can still come across all sorts of pipes and wires.
Nice idea. The only comment I've got is this. It's always best to hit studs with nails to hold the base back snug. If the person doing this keeps track of the wire locations, it may be okay. Having said that, if someone else pulls the base and doesn't know there is a wire in that location, it may be a problem. Some of the newer air nailers can blow through p plates or kick and curl the nails. Nice video though! 😊
My walls are old plaster walls but are in really good condition. I am trying to rid of some of the old outlets and install new ones. How could I do this with old plaster walls if it's possible. Since the house is older some of the other outlets can be gone. I am tired of extention cords and electric power strips especially during the holidays. Any advice would help. Thank you
Hi Jacquelyn! I will have to create a mock up made of plaster to accomplish this tutorial. It will be made of lath and plaster, is that similar to yours? If you can send me a picture of the inside of the wall if possible that would be great! Here is my email: fixthishouse1@yahoo.com 🙏🏽👍🏽😊
Any thoughts on metal studs? Am thinking of drilling holes with a hole saw behind the baseboard area and installing the plastic protectors normally used in metal studs for protecting Romex.
That sounds simple and easy but it is far from easy. How can I cut the drywall straight across if there are studds in the way of me cutting the drywall?In between the studds would be an easy cut straight across however as soon as I get to a studd I would start cutting into the studd.
Is there any issue if I skip putting back the bottom drywall at all? The wires won't be exposed and bottom drywall is not visible at all anyway right? What are your thoughts?
Thanks for this. Idea,, question is it necessary to use pigtails at the first outlet? Or is fine to connect straight to outlet powering second outlet. Thanks man
Hi! Either way works. It’s good to use pigtails just in case the outlet fails, the rest of the outlets down the same circuit connecting to that outlet doesn’t get affected.
No, and not necessary. No. Remember, even where local codes are stricter than the NEC, they usually allow homeowners, I.E., DYI, more leeway. An electrician may, by code, have to do something a certain way, while the homeowner may not.
To elaborate, conduit on the outside of the wall would be ugly. :-p Of course, if you don't care, have at it. It would still have to run into the wall, and into the old/new junction boxes, secured to the boxes, with no less than 6" of wire/s coming out past the wall/new junction box. The dude failed to mention the required wire length. The required wire length would also apply to the old box.
In Somali and Spanish and Chinese, ect,ect, ect, ect, ect, ect, ect... for all the Doctors and scientists the hair sniffer Biden is allowing in? Plus water flooding?
"while"? If you meant to say, whole, no, the rewire has to start at the panel/breaker. There is more to rewiring a whole house than meets the eye, first, regarding code. So, bottom line, you need to state more elaborately, and specifically, what you are wanting to do. Important, also, is why. Do you have a dead section of wiring/outlet/s, for instance? AL wiring? Code, wire type, amps, voltage, proper circuit breaker for said, is just the _beginning_ of what you have to consider. Keep in mind, one circuit for each room, if possible. You don't want an outlet on a circuit in one room, that is on the same circuit as an outlet in another room. However, there may be instances where you may properly wire two adjacent rooms, basically individually, on the same circuit. The room closet to the electrical panel will be the first room, then the last outlet in the first room will run to the first outlet in the second room. In both rooms, the first outlet runs to the other outlets in the room, then to the light switch, then to the light fixture. If you meant to say, "while". Yes, but it will be time-consuming. Do your very best to get the outlets the same height as the existing outlets. Would you still need to run wire to the switch, and then the light fixture? There is so much more, then. You need to do a lot of research. Consider this: know what you want to do, put the plan on paper, hire a pro to evaluate, follow what the pro says you, as the homeowner, can or cannot do, and make detailed notes of that! You still need to do a lot of research... LEARN! NOTE: In case there has been someone before you in that home, invest in a wire finder, so if they already did some wiring, you have less of a chance to cut/nail into any existing wiring. Learn how to use it, and _always_ use it in any area you will drill or cut. And, or, use one or more of the recommendations in this video. Don't kill yourself, or burn down your house, or kill your family... please. :-)
I think it’s smart to drill your holes up higher but at the same time trimmers use 2” nails so if you were to drill the center of the studs down low I don’t think it would be a problem
The only problem is you would have to remove the trim to read that and the only time you're really going to hit the wire as if you hit it with a brad nailer which you wouldn't need to remove the trim to do that
Studs can still be drilled, and wire can still be fished. Or, buy more wire, run up, across, then down. There may be the issue of a fire block, but that can be overcome, also.
Why don't you just not put back the cut drywall ? So if someone put new baseboard they will see the cable running along the wall when removing the old baseboard
My understanding is you should never run power horizontally in walls. When some one goes to run a data line or fiber correctly from above and uses a drywall saw to place a post wire box, guess what will happen?!
"My understanding is you should never run power horizontally in walls." ... You have a misunderstanding. What _should_ happen is the person has to make sure there is no wire/s to cut/nail into. In that case, guess what will not happen.
@@FixThisHouse I. Not I. No way discriminating not being fastened. I'm asking because I'm needing to do basically same thing. But in baseboards used as the chase. But didn't want it to be wrong.
@@FixThisHouse You should have cut lower, and also taped/sealed. Regarding his question/s, what exactly is he asking? Anyway, the NEC does not state a homeowner has to secure/staple, wires in a finished wall. That's usually the case even where local codes are stricter. For an electrician, and what you did, the electrician would not be required to secure the wiring.
You had me until the flex bit and putting your hand in the wall... Your hand clearly goes beyond the 2x4 stud, which in real life applications would be impossible due to insulation inside the wall (most of the time) and sheetrock on the other side of the wall.
Why can't I just run the new wire within metal conduit? I cringed just looking at your wrist. I have a hard enough time just dealing with 12 guage wire, being a 71 year old woman.
Not an electrician, but that may be okay as long as you aren't using FMC, as nails/screws go right through it and it tends to move less than Romex, making the wires more likely to be damaged by a nail or screw. To me, even EMT seems a little risky, so I'd use IDF to make sure it's protected. However, rigid metal conduit is going to use a lot of space, so might have to notch more than you're allowed. Plus still have the water issue if there is a flood or leak, so would also want to use wiring rated for wet environments, like THWN. Again, I'm not an electrician, so check with an electrician or inspector. I'd rather cut out drywall, patch and paint than deal with all this though
It's a great concept idea but that's been done for decades and the only reason that idea didn't take off well... There is a chance of electrical damage... So please everybody pay attention if he should ever replace those baseboards and someone installs new baseboards with finish nails they will impact and hit that electrical wire which will cost a shortage and hopefully does not create a fire... Keep this in mind and a real framing while there is insulation that is easy to catch fire.. that concept idea would not even pass through city codes... I know this because I'm a general contractor part of my license traded C10 which is for residential electrical... The other element most likely your house insurance will not cover any fire damage once is inspected how this wire was installed...
This guy went way overboard .....first off wtf uses nails that long for a baseboard.....2nd just go center of the stud and drill your whole...problem solved
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That's an awesome tip young man! Thank you so much! 😊
Thank you so much Jeanne! 🙏🏽😊
I'm digging that outlet. If I need to do any outlet replacement they will be my go-to outlets.
Those outlets decora edge are amazing 👍🏽😊
Everything about this fix is excellently explained and demonstrated. But this would be a little trickier with insulation commonly found in hollow walls.
That was my immediate thought, in the setting of newer homes or recently renovated homes.
the cavity between studs typically will have insulation and will not be this bare. Just for all to keep in mind.
Not in south Florida. I’ve renovated many homes and never encountered insulation in an interior wall.
@@quentin.smith_ not interior walls insulation is put in exterior walls.
Good demonstration video and explanation
Thank you Friend! 🙏🏽👍🏽😊
yo im about to wire my home w cat6 and im using this strat. good stuff bro.
Nice tip mate . Not so easy if the wall is rammed full of class fibre insulation or rockwool ( sound proofing & heat insulation ) , a requirement in the uk .
Really depends on which wall it is in the US. If it is an exteriar wall then you will find all sorts of insulation material. The interior walls will be more empty but you can still come across all sorts of pipes and wires.
Bro, what a life saver. I have to subscribe.
do you have a video for multimeters?
Nice idea. The only comment I've got is this. It's always best to hit studs with nails to hold the base back snug.
If the person doing this keeps track of the wire locations, it may be okay. Having said that, if someone else pulls the base and doesn't know there is a wire in that location, it may be a problem. Some of the newer air nailers can blow through p plates or kick and curl the nails. Nice video though! 😊
I’m pretty sure he knows that. He’s just explaining what can happen. Some may not know about the studs. This is for DIYers😉
Thanks so much for making this intuitive video... thought me a lot... 🙂
Hi, thank you for your great video. Would you please send the link for your flexible drill extension?
Thank you so much Daved! Here is the link for the flexible drill extension: amzn.to/3mRpvIf
My walls are old plaster walls but are in really good condition. I am trying to rid of some of the old outlets and install new ones. How could I do this with old plaster walls if it's possible. Since the house is older some of the other outlets can be gone. I am tired of extention cords and electric power strips especially during the holidays. Any advice would help. Thank you
Hi Jacquelyn! I will have to create a mock up made of plaster to accomplish this tutorial. It will be made of lath and plaster, is that similar to yours? If you can send me a picture of the inside of the wall if possible that would be great! Here is my email: fixthishouse1@yahoo.com 🙏🏽👍🏽😊
@@FixThisHouseDid you end up making this video? 🙏🏻
You can take out the plaster behind the baseboards and jsut put in some sheetrock to bring it back out level.
Excellent tips
Great tips, thank you 🙏
Thank you Salvador! 🙏🏽😊
Any thoughts on metal studs? Am thinking of drilling holes with a hole saw behind the baseboard area and installing the plastic protectors normally used in metal studs for protecting Romex.
How the electrical box is fixed to the drywall, because there seems to be no stud behind for the screws ?
Hi! It’s an old work j-box 👍🏽😊
That sounds simple and easy but it is far from easy. How can I cut the drywall straight across if there are studds in the way of me cutting the drywall?In between the studds would be an easy cut straight across however as soon as I get to a studd I would start cutting into the studd.
Huh?
Love how you explain everything!! T.Y.👍
Thank you Lee! 🙏🏽😊
Thank you for sharing.
Is there any issue if I skip putting back the bottom drywall at all? The wires won't be exposed and bottom drywall is not visible at all anyway right? What are your thoughts?
Thanks for this. Idea,, question is it necessary to use pigtails at the first outlet? Or is fine to connect straight to outlet powering second outlet. Thanks man
Hi! Either way works. It’s good to use pigtails just in case the outlet fails, the rest of the outlets down the same circuit connecting to that outlet doesn’t get affected.
@@FixThisHouse true, thanks! Love your videos👍 wallet doesnt
Could you run in a piece of metal conduit.
Does the wire in the stud need a meta protection plate ?
Great video wirh your display
Most houses are gonna have plastic boxes, how would you run metal conduit to a plastic box
No, and not necessary.
No.
Remember, even where local codes are stricter than the NEC, they usually allow homeowners, I.E., DYI, more leeway. An electrician may, by code, have to do something a certain way, while the homeowner may not.
To elaborate, conduit on the outside of the wall would be ugly. :-p Of course, if you don't care, have at it. It would still have to run into the wall, and into the old/new junction boxes, secured to the boxes, with no less than 6" of wire/s coming out past the wall/new junction box. The dude failed to mention the required wire length. The required wire length would also apply to the old box.
How about write a warning on the drywall you cut out that there is a hidden cable behind drywall! Problem solved with a lot less work and aggravation.
In Somali and Spanish and Chinese, ect,ect, ect, ect, ect, ect, ect... for all the Doctors and scientists the hair sniffer Biden is allowing in? Plus water flooding?
Thanks for all the content it has helped me so much in my house that I just purchased
I’m glad I could be of help Brian! 🙏🏽😊
Nice! Thx
No problem!
Great idea.
Can you rewire while house that has many wires coming inside with this method of minimal wall destruction?
"while"? If you meant to say, whole, no, the rewire has to start at the panel/breaker. There is more to rewiring a whole house than meets the eye, first, regarding code. So, bottom line, you need to state more elaborately, and specifically, what you are wanting to do. Important, also, is why. Do you have a dead section of wiring/outlet/s, for instance? AL wiring?
Code,
wire type,
amps,
voltage,
proper circuit breaker for said,
is just the _beginning_ of what you have to consider.
Keep in mind, one circuit for each room, if possible. You don't want an outlet on a circuit in one room, that is on the same circuit as an outlet in another room.
However, there may be instances where you may properly wire two adjacent rooms, basically individually, on the same circuit. The room closet to the electrical panel will be the first room, then the last outlet in the first room will run to the first outlet in the second room. In both rooms, the first outlet runs to the other outlets in the room, then to the light switch, then to the light fixture.
If you meant to say, "while". Yes, but it will be time-consuming. Do your very best to get the outlets the same height as the existing outlets. Would you still need to run wire to the switch, and then the light fixture?
There is so much more, then. You need to do a lot of research. Consider this: know what you want to do, put the plan on paper, hire a pro to evaluate, follow what the pro says you, as the homeowner, can or cannot do, and make detailed notes of that! You still need to do a lot of research... LEARN!
NOTE: In case there has been someone before you in that home, invest in a wire finder, so if they already did some wiring, you have less of a chance to cut/nail into any existing wiring. Learn how to use it, and _always_ use it in any area you will drill or cut. And, or, use one or more of the recommendations in this video.
Don't kill yourself, or burn down your house, or kill your family... please. :-)
Thanks for the tips. Much appreciated.
Thank you Vince! Im glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
I think it’s smart to drill your holes up higher but at the same time trimmers use 2” nails so if you were to drill the center of the studs down low I don’t think it would be a problem
The only problem is you would have to remove the trim to read that and the only time you're really going to hit the wire as if you hit it with a brad nailer which you wouldn't need to remove the trim to do that
Huh?
Great idea unless it is an insulated exterior wall.
Studs can still be drilled, and wire can still be fished. Or, buy more wire, run up, across, then down. There may be the issue of a fire block, but that can be overcome, also.
Why don't you just not put back the cut drywall ? So if someone put new baseboard they will see the cable running along the wall when removing the old baseboard
Or, leave some gaps. You need to fill in the gap so the baseboard can be nailed to the stude and stay upright.
Get the new outlets/wiring the same height as the existing ones. Always put the cut-out piece back in. In fact, it should also be taped/sealed.
Very nice
My understanding is you should never run power horizontally in walls. When some one goes to run a data line or fiber correctly from above and uses a drywall saw to place a post wire box, guess what will happen?!
"My understanding is you should never run power horizontally in walls." ... You have a misunderstanding. What _should_ happen is the person has to make sure there is no wire/s to cut/nail into. In that case, guess what will not happen.
Just drill a hole in the center of stud. Notching could lead to a brad nail going through wire.
You didn't watch the whole video. Or, you fell asleep. :-p
Why would you be able to not fasten 12 inches from the box with this method. But fail inspection if a wire isn't secured when doing rough wiring
Code requirements as stated in the NEC
@@FixThisHouse I. Not I. No way discriminating not being fastened. I'm asking because I'm needing to do basically same thing. But in baseboards used as the chase. But didn't want it to be wrong.
@@FixThisHouse You should have cut lower, and also taped/sealed. Regarding his question/s, what exactly is he asking? Anyway, the NEC does not state a homeowner has to secure/staple, wires in a finished wall. That's usually the case even where local codes are stricter. For an electrician, and what you did, the electrician would not be required to secure the wiring.
@@shanester8712 Just call your local code/permit entity. I have always found them to be very helpful. (Although, this is a year ago.)
Good luck for those of us with insulation in our interior walls!
Don't forget get about the sheetrock that would be on the other side of the wall at 5:25
You had me until the flex bit and putting your hand in the wall... Your hand clearly goes beyond the 2x4 stud, which in real life applications would be impossible due to insulation inside the wall (most of the time) and sheetrock on the other side of the wall.
The lack of finished wall/s, insulation is just for demonstration. Nothing you posted can prevent what he did.
Jay I ran across a situation today where a small radio kept blowing a breaker with it turned off. Could you maybe make a video explaining why?
Hey guys
Hi!
Wagos on an outlet is awesome
Why can't I just run the new wire within metal conduit? I cringed just looking at your wrist. I have a hard enough time just dealing with 12 guage wire, being a 71 year old woman.
Not an electrician, but that may be okay as long as you aren't using FMC, as nails/screws go right through it and it tends to move less than Romex, making the wires more likely to be damaged by a nail or screw.
To me, even EMT seems a little risky, so I'd use IDF to make sure it's protected. However, rigid metal conduit is going to use a lot of space, so might have to notch more than you're allowed. Plus still have the water issue if there is a flood or leak, so would also want to use wiring rated for wet environments, like THWN. Again, I'm not an electrician, so check with an electrician or inspector.
I'd rather cut out drywall, patch and paint than deal with all this though
It's a great concept idea but that's been done for decades and the only reason that idea didn't take off well... There is a chance of electrical damage... So please everybody pay attention if he should ever replace those baseboards and someone installs new baseboards with finish nails they will impact and hit that electrical wire which will cost a shortage and hopefully does not create a fire... Keep this in mind and a real framing while there is insulation that is easy to catch fire.. that concept idea would not even pass through city codes... I know this because I'm a general contractor part of my license traded C10 which is for residential electrical... The other element most likely your house insurance will not cover any fire damage once is inspected how this wire was installed...
Hi! I’m assuming you didn’t watch the video. I placed the wire almost 9” off the floor. Those are very high baseboards 😅
Watch the whole video. He said not to place the wire along the baseboard.
😎🤙
🙄
😎
This guy went way overboard .....first off wtf uses nails that long for a baseboard.....2nd just go center of the stud and drill your whole...problem solved