"SHOCKING" New Way to Fix Short Wires In an Electrical Box to Code | Very Important
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มี.ค. 2023
- In this video I show you numerous ways to fix wires that are too short in an electrical box. This one of the most common mistakes when running electrical wires that are made by not just DIYers but also some pros. But with some easy fixes they can be brought into a safe and code compliant state!
Items Used In the Video:
Wire Strippers: amzn.to/3KW7sug
Ideal Tan Wire Nuts: amzn.to/3Jc8tNg
Wago 221 Inline Connectors: amzn.to/3Yle5co
Wago 221 Lever Nut Assortment Pack: amzn.to/3SKvslX
Wago 221 Lever Nut Large Assortment Pack: amzn.to/3moZNdI
Milwaukee ECX Screwdriver: amzn.to/3EYo4xI
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Klein Lineman's Pliers: amzn.to/3IOtYT5
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Have you ever come across this issue? I feel like it is way more common than it should be!
Yes, a main 12-3 Romex wire going into the attic (garage attic) from my house to the garage only comes about 2 inches from the wall Maybe much less. Always leave plenty of extra wire in J boxes and outlet boxes! Also I had dozens of poorly done wire nuts, and zero strain reliefs on a single J box. Every J box was open! Had lights flickering, went through and found a number of very poor connections.
It's best to pretwist the wires with line man pliers before installing the wire nut. Always use quality wire nuts too
Yes, I have.
Henry Homeowner does this crap a lot.
yes, I did. I replaced a lot of outlets and switches when we moved in; a bunch had short leads. Wish I'd thought of something like this. Got it done OK with needlenose, but this would have been easier.
Nice video. Yes, I came across this and used a 3 port Wago to help 'extend' the wires, as I wasn't aware of the inline Wago product. Nice to know for the future!
huh, always assumed that the service loop was adequate as opposed to filling the box. Thanks for referencing the standard outright!
Way back in the late 80's when I started an apprenticeship (I didn't stay in the trade though) my employer taught me to always leave around 3" of slack inside the wall between the last staple and the box for "just in case" (his exact words). He also taught me to leave a full inch of sheathing inside the box for "just in case" and then to always leave 7" of wire inside the box for (you guessed it) "just in case". Basically this would ALWAYS leave the next guy at least 10" to play with and as he also told me "If 10" isn't enough for you then you're just greedy". I loved that guy.
I leave 4 in wall and 2 to 4 in the box depend in the number of wires which is actually code. The wire must extend a certain number of inches beyond the front of the box. Since I do not do it as a career I do not recall the number of inches.
Sounds like a really cool guy.
2 inches of sheathing in the box is more common, even my short runs have that much.
Yes, typically 1-2 inches of sheathing is used in the back of the box.
Same way I was taught in 2022
Ideal use for inline wago, BUT cable had yellow sheath, so it is presumably 12awg. and wago you showed (cle4ar center section) is only good up to 14awg. You should have wago 221-2401 (white center) for 12awg.
Check their product specs. All of the 221 series are good for 12 AWG
Tucking (cramming) the wires into the box is a little bit of an art. Something you don’t see on TH-cam.
I've been chipping away at this issue in my older home. Thanks for the review with a simple breakdown of basic electrical code. You showed my "old" way that I've been using and the new. subscribed
I discovered In-Line Wagos a few years ago and they're a game changer. Worth every penny.
Yep, I found those Wago 221 straight connectors a few months aro and said to myself now this makes sense. Your not loosing any wire length and taking up less volume in the box. Great job explaining this short wire solution in the video.
I agree! Really appreciate all of the feedback!
Check out the wago 2273-202. Waaaay smaller than the 221s, even the inlines.
@@JasperJanssen Those are push-ins (like backstabbing) and over time are not as secure as lever nuts. Also you shouldn't reuse them as removing the wire can weaken or break the metal tab that holds the wire in. After the wire is removed the end will need to be cut off so that will shorten the wire whereas the lever nuts can simply be opened and the wire removed cleanly.
@@kamX-rz4uy well, for one thing this is not true, they are still reusable after you remove a wire from them, but also and more importantly, you don’t have to cut off and strip fresh after it either. You remove them by twisting them around the wire while pulling. This is, in fact, supported use.
So no, they’re not like backstabbing at all, and if you’d ever seen one you’d know. Don’t import the limitations of your shitty sockets onto these connector blocks just because they vaguely resemble the same outside appearance of being “a hole”.
(The internals of the stab nuts are *exactly* the same as the lever nuts, just without the lever to open them up. So they’re also not “less secure over time than lever nuts”, no.)
@@kamX-rz4uy Not true. Push-ins as you call them is absolute standard issue in europe for solid wire. The universal ones with level, which the Americans start to discover are mainly only used for stranded. Three reasons: price, size and the lever which can’t be damaged. I’m a professional myself.
Great stuff! Thanks. I have a couple boxes with this problem that I need to address and this info will allow me to do so without the anxiety I was previously feeling.
You are welcome! Really glad to hear it was helpful! Thanks a lot for the feedback Michael!
It seems mostly common with switches rather than receptacles.
I actually learned something I haven't seen in the numerous videos about the Wago connectors. That is that you don't have to open the lever to insert the wire. I just bought a box of them to use in rewiring my garage and basement this summer. I'm looking forward to the job.
Yeah, but so anyway. It also depends on the wire.
Part of the problem may be advice from inspectors years ago. Two different ones told me that I was wasting too much copper by having what I considered to be compliant lengths. My response was that I was not trying to low ball the job.
Wow, I had not heard that one yet but like you said, it might explain why some of the remodels I have done, I have found short wires and I know it was installed by an electrician. That and neighborhoods go up as fast as possible and the inspectors arent checking super closely all of the boxes. Really appreciate the input Luther!
The "Inspector" title went to his head!
@@HowToHomeDIY The last lot along the major street by my place was subdivided. Sad, no yards on the entire throughway.
Inspectors are usually just tradesmen that couldn't make it doing the trade.
@@robertwazniak9495 lol not always, but sometimes. Also I know an inspector that was damn good in the trades but was now slightly obese, had a few injuries, and was older. So u kinda get a whole range, but I think personality (like any job) and a willingness to learn their craft is the most important thing.
I like the Wagos but I also like the Ideal push on connectors especially in this situation. That have a smaller footprint and are great for pigtail applications with minimal clutter.
Nice work. I also like to take a photo with my phone on the before and especially after of the connections just to make my OCD worrying head to not drive me insane wondering how good its done. But more just for reflection to see if I could have improved anything.
I've been using (and love) Wagos for years but I never knew about the inline connectors. Ordering some right now. Thanks!
You are welcome! They can definitely be helpful!
The inline Wagos are relatively new. I used them when I rewired my 1950 house.
@@im2yys4u81 1968 here but no lead paint or asbestos.
I recently started using the Wago. I love how easy they are compared to wire nuts.
Most notably you can SEE what's going on
Thanks, I've been using my wire stretcher all these years!
I'll trade u my board stretcher for it. Wire stretchers are so rare they're almost a myth.
@@tightwad Board stretchers are infinitely more useful than cable stretchers, everyone needs both!
Thank you! Previous owners cut the wires too short, been looking for an option that didn’t require demoing the drywall. 😎
Great video.. I've been an electrician for 38 years and I have always used wire nuts. Because of comments on my videos I bought some WAGO 221 connectors and I have they connected to a well pump which is a pretty taxing circuit for testing. If they hold up I'll start recommending them as well.
my torture test is in a corrosive environment.
I agree, repeated High inrush is a great stress test.
@@steveurbach3093 Exactly.. And so far they are holding up.
I have built 2 complete houses in my 60 yrs of life.....everything but the concrete and roofing...I hate both.
The amount of connective "surface area making contact" between the 2 wires (or multiple) in these "Wago's" is almost molecular compared to using a wire nut. It's comparable to touching the very ends of 2 wires together....and that causes heat, corrosion and everything else that can go wrong in an electrical box. I can't believe any state building code allows this short-cut.
@@readmore3634 I agree for the most part but there are a few things to consider. The Wago does have a larger connective area and a better method of keeping tension than the back stab device connections. Like I mentioned I have some installed for testing. Second many people whole are unskilled in electrical work may have a better chance of making a lasting connection with a wago over a wire nut.
Just bought a box of the Wago in lines, these things are the BOMB!
I wasn't "shocked" but I did have a "spark" of inspiration.
Ohhh I like that! 😂 I may have to use that one in the future.
@@HowToHomeDIY 👍
Excellent information as always. Thanks, keep up the great work.
I have used Wago connectors for a while now and like them very much. One tip would be to give it a single wrap of electrical tape to help keep the levers down. If your gang box is exceptionally stuffed full of wires, the levers can catch and pop up while shoving everything in.
You mean on the OUTSIDE of the levered junction and not on any wires, right? In that case I agree.
@@JL-yo1du yep
@@mgweir3252 cool, out
... and then rotate the bundle with longer wires. It is actually easier then using a linesman's pliers.
I know what’s it’s like to have a short wire going into the box and how unsatisfying that can be for everyone, so thanks for the great video, very helpful.
It amazes me that people are so keen on using push in connectors like the WAGO ones, but have such a hate for push in connectors on the backs of receptacles. The "in-line" WAGO connectors look as though they may take up quite a bit of space, or only fit in the box running lengthwise. Other than that they seem like an interesting alternative to wire nuts. As a Licensed Electrician, I'll be keeping with the traditional wire nut splicing.
I personally use wire nuts in most of my installs. But the Wagos do make more internal contact with the wire than the push ins on receptacles and switches. I think the inlines are perfect for this particular issue but wire nuts work great as well. Appreciate the input.
even tho the push in connection on the back of the receptacles is ok to use per code, it is garbage option and is only there for installation speed when wiring. they are garbage because of point contact, as a electrician you should know what point contact is and how it effects the connection point. my home was built in 1984 and i have replaced every outlet for one reason or another and I when have gone to remove the outlet almost every one of the wires in the push in connections has had signs of heating and has slowly melted the insulation right near the outlet to the point that it is hard. this due to the high resistance of point contact right at the push in connection point because the contact area is very small. Over time and use the area is heated and cooled which weakens the spring effect of the connection point in the plug adding to the increasing resistance and the cycle continues until the connection point fails or there is fire. on plugs where the side terminal have been used i have seen a failure, only failure has been the receptacle due to use. btw i am a electrical engineer by trade with 35 years of experience in both high power and RF applications.
I received some samples of these inline Wago connectors and they are awesome for working in tight spaces.
Was concerned with the Wago's at high currents, did some testing. Used 14Awg wire with 30amps, after 1 hour the temperature rise was 15degC, wiggled and pulled the wires temp rise still at 15degC.
Have no worries about the Wago connector having a poor connection or over heating.
Over the years have seen many poor twist connector connections that fall apart when I did service.
Will never use a twist connector again.
Thanks for the tip on wago inline connectors.
I’ve stopped using wire nuts , they take up far to much space. Thank you I wasn’t aware of the in line wago. Very helpful!
enjoy the fire.
Inline Wagos are very recent, difficult to find in the US and expensive if you do.
@@KameraShyNo longer (February 2024). 60 pieces for $24 on Amazon, same day delivery for Prime members. Forty cents each to quickly cure a wire issue while taking up a fraction of the space of wire nuts is a screaming bargain.
@@soisaidtogod4248 old dude, wagos have been code in Europe for over 20 years now. What is this mythical fire you dream of?
You're great at what U do. THANKS!
Thanks! Your videos have taught me so much!
Push in connectors are good for this too. Do t need to use a huge tan nut for 12AWG, can use just a two wire connector. Less expensive too.
I keep Wago, push in and regular nuts in my box to fit a variety of situations.
I know some people really like the Insure push in connectors, I just personally don't care much for them. Especially with an option like Wago available. But they are certainly an approved option! And like you said you are prepared for numerous situation, which is the way to be! Thanks for the input.
@@HowToHomeDIY Most of the time I'm using Wagos for testing circuits before the walls get closed up. Also good for diagnostics.
Yeah, I have a few of each.
I have found a few Wago’s fail on me were the wire was not secure and could be pulled out easily and potential to arc.
I have had many inspections over the years for electrical work. Never once did an inspector pull outlets out of the box to check length. The do check that wire is fastened close enough to the boxes. I like long wires but working on older homes rarely are they that long. Most come out of boxes 2" or less. Only in really short situations do you actually have to add wires. It isn't actually an unsafe issue, it is an issue of working on it in the future. Also some times adding additional wires into a box becomes a code issue. Over crowding a box can be more unsafe and more of a code issue than short wires. Most areas here in Pennsylvania, do not require that you update to modern code unless you are completely re-wiring an electrical system.
Wow, you did an amazing job!
I qam looking forward to your next video!
Well done!
Really glad to hear you liked it so much! Thanks a lot for the feedback Robert!
I have seen this a few times. Glad you shared the correction.
I'd never seen these before, ordered some to try out. thanks for the great video.
I am really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback Roy!
Nice, didn't know they had inline connectors too. The house i bought has a bit of DIY wiring the inspector didn't catch. Front garage sconces have romex going into loft but not on a circuit, at least they left like 20ft for each one. Couple outdoor light fixtures not using junction boxes. I have a switch that, i assume goes to an outside fixture above the rear garage door. The romex is very short and rigid so pigtails may help. I did replace all my T8 flourescent fixtures with LED using wago - so much easier.
Edited fir stupid autocomplete errors.
It is their newest model.
Another Great Video! BTW. I ended up with a pair of the Knipex Electricians pliers and you were right! They’re the best I’ve ever used.
A lot of older homes tend to have short wires and people have to be aware that there are very specific code requirements on box fill as well.
great video series, mate!
Wago’s are the way to go when cleaning and tidying up messy cluttered boxes.
They definitely do have their place. Thanks for the feedback Geoffrey!
Wagon have more resistance. Twist and nuts are better but just a bit more work.
@@rb8049 Resistance is only slightly higher for most of the Wago style connectors and offer several other benefits over wire nuts. I especially like Wago's when combining stranded and solid wires.
@@rb8049there’s a video here on TH-cam where someone tested all the wire connection devices, including Wago and wire nuts. The Wago’s worked fine way past the rated amps of the breaker.
@R B If you check out the tests online they do just fine. The wire melts before the Wago
Good video and good info. I recently had to add a plug and extend a light switch connection. Though I knew how to,do it, I wasn’t up to speed on modern devices and code and your videos were a great help.
Really glad to hear they were able to help you out! Thanks a lot for the feedback Dave!
I get changed every few years...
Thank you for another excellent electric ⚡️ educational video!
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
The second connector are rated by the way so make sure you have the proper size for the wire rating.
Wago’s are very useful really enjoy your content 👍👍👍
Great video. Love this channel!
Really glad to hear you refining value in the channel. I really appreciate the feedback! Thank you!
Dude - you are a Godsend❣️
Iam in the same situation and came up with this same solution. I even have had the WAGO already. I have been pausing a bit before getting underway because a concern about the WAGO latches releasing unexpectedly while tucking away the wires.
Another thing is if say a receptacle is not a branch circuit terminal, could I connect the grounding wires as input to a WAGO and one wire out to the ground screw?
I had a situation just last week. Beach houses sometimes have grooved outside paneling on the outside. I had 4 sections that had rotted and had to be replaced. I took down the non working fixture and saw that the wire had rotted right where it cam out of a 2X4. The cause of the problem was the installation of the fixture. Someone had hung it over a groove. Water ran down the groove and into the fixture. I had told the guy replacing the paneling to pull the wire back from the 2X4 so I could move the fixture after the paneling was replaced. He didn't. I'm 5 hours away and can't supervise the people who work on my house.
I drilled a hole 8 inches down from the old hole and pulled the wire back. Put in a new box after pulling a piece of cable toward the unneeded hole where the wire had come out before. The carpenter had cut a new hole where the fixture had been on the old paneling. I spliced the cables together and put a water proof cover over the splice box and caulked it to seal it. I installed the fixture over the old hole location he'd drilled. I filled the groove in the paneling with caulk so water couldn't run behind the fixture and put a bead over the top of the fixture. I put 2 coats of paint over the splice cover and it's practically invisible.
I've owned this house for 22 years and it's been completely renovated. Most of my repair work years ago was related to poor workmanship. Today I am still redoing bad workmanship on recently down work. It is very difficult to find good workman here on the NC coast. I'm fortunate that I'm handy. Most of my experience comes from my time as a Navy Seabee working in a base public works department for four years.
Great presentation
I love wago lever nuts. I use them all the time. 💝🇨🇦
So very simple, why would anyone not use the Wagos? Easy, Code and one keeps the length!! ACE!
Bob
England
Thanks a lot for the feedback Bob!
Just about finished rewiring and plumbing a 1966 Mobile Home. What a mess. Every box had 4 inches of wire max, most were 2.5 inches.
Of the 15 outlets, 8 had open grounds and 4 the hots and neutrals were reversed. And all grounds and neutrals were together in the sub panel breaker box, the main disconnect is at the power pedestal outside.
All outlets were on 12-2 wire and a single 15 amp breaker, two wires under the same screw on the breaker.
All lights were run with 12-2 gauge wire and were on three 20 amp breakers.
Chassis was not bonded to MGN. No ground rod outside. Sub panels ground wire is 6 gauge Aluminum and the ground clamp to the chassis was loose enough to pull the wire out of it.
I ran a new 6 gauge copper from Sub panel to the MGN in the power pedestal, and bonded the chassis to the MGN.
Clothes dryer was not run to the sub panel breaker box. It has a 10-4 wire going to the power pedestal and then connected to a 50 amp breaker. Imagine throwing the main breaker in the sub panel and thinking you can work on the dryer outlet. ZAPPP.
It is all fixed now.
Wow, that sounds like you had quite the project on your hands! It is always amazing to discover what is really in behind the walls. Thanks a lot for sharing your experience Dave!
That's good information.
I've found with levernuts that you can stab solid wire in without lifting the lever. Stranded wire you need to lift the lever first. I'm rigging my home with a bunch of smart switches and the WAGOs make the job so easy.
Nice work
Thanks! I have never seen the ‘straight thru’ kind of Wagos. I had hoped they were available somewhere!
You are welcome! Glad you found it useful! Thanks for the feedback!
Available on Amazon
Amazon
Your video preview pic was a bit misleading/confusing as it seemed to convey the wago was dangerous as it had a slash through it. Loved the video tho - informative,clear and explained a few things I didnt know about the code
you are helping me alot. thanks
Glad to hear you are finding value in the channel! Thanks a lot for the feedback Mark!
Those are a great option but for the ground wire it's better to use the little copper splice cap because it's smaller and gives a very strong and permanent connection. You will need crimpers that have the crimper on the end of the pliers, so you can get to the part that you need to. In fact when I need maximum room in the box I use the insulated crimp on devices, what are much smaller than the Waygos. When you have something like a GFCI or a dimmer switch sometimes you need more room in the box.
Yes, ground and neutral bundles are ideal but if you have 12 it is not practical. Even on my own house I have 9 wires. Sorry, but a pair of 6 is much easier.
@actionjksn - I was about to make the same comment about ground crimps. But considering that the topic is "too short conductors", people may come across the situation where some numb nuts cut off the off the crimped ground pigtail, leaving just a stub in the box. In that case, something like the wago may be your only option.
@@jeffeverde1 Yeah people do some super dumb shit in electrical boxes.
@@jeffeverde1 Yep, it was my situation recently while installing a KASA switch and dimmer, I had to use 3 and 1 I was able to just use a wire nut. I most use them with items that have a stranded wire. I do NOT like mixing stranded with solid without using a Wago unlike all solid wire. KASA comes with 2 or 4 stranded wires depending on if a dimmer or switch and in the dimmer location all but ground and neutral were too short and ground and neutral on the were stranded. I had to use inline out the load, line was long enough. I also put electric tape over each to avoid accidental disengagement and twist each set. I have found since a Wago spreads wire more and in a line that rotating the wire around each other in a bundle is easier and more reliable than using linesman pliers. I have shot videos about it I will eventually post.
I have switched to using the inline Wago for line or load and leave the ground and neutral as bundles.
Is it possible to do an inline twisted splice , solder it and cover it with a couple of layers of heatshrink tubing? or is that not code approved! I have soldered short ground conductors before after twisting them together, but not hot and nuetral wires.
I have to move (lower it) a wall plug and one of the wire (coming from the top) is too short, Can you tell me if i can elongate the wire with a junction without having that joint put in a jonction box ? Thank you.
Thank you very much for awesome video 🙏👍
I have AL wiring in my house and these WAGOS work great for it! I used some OXGARD (instead of the Wago brand) poured 3/4 into the port, and put my 10 AWG and 12 AWG AL wires precoated in AntiOX into these and they are working great 3+ years.
I like to wrap the WAGO levers and use the electrical tape with the correct coloring code (Black = hot, etc) to correspond to each wire. (I also try to wrap the wires inside the wagos to hold them together in the splicer) I've accidentally flipped the levers while installing these in the box, I think it's prudent to tape the levers, even though WAGO doesn't recommend it.
People should consider using WAGO for AL Wire. I would recommend using freshly cut, unscratched and clean AL wire that has been pre-coated in antiox. (People should use the antiox that WAGO recommends. I didn't buy it because its stupidly expensive for some reason.)
I recently inspected to look for any signs of bulging/expansion, and oxidation and there was none. These splicers should be inspected every 5 years for oxidation, expansion, etc. Too much expansion could release the levers and possibly make a lose connection - which is why I like to tape my wires together as they go into the splicer.
Devices that use continous high current have bulged on me using the ALUMICONN lug splice connectors, and I've had ALUMICONN lugs with no anti ox paste in them, which is why it's important to pre-inspect these to make sure they have sufficient antiox in them, and to check for tight connections before installing. Noalox works great if you need to top off on fresh antiox in these.
LOVE those connectors a whole lot better than wire nuts!
Is the service loop/love loop against building code? Coming from the low-voltage/communication sector, it's how we roll, 'cause stuff happens.
Those butt-joint Wagos are interesting! Not sure how I feel about them in this application, though. Especially in a stuffed box, having the wires come back on themselves in a regular Wago or a wire nut may actually afford you some extra flexibility when tucking everything back in.
I'm also curious about how electrical code addresses wire length in pancake boxes, as I may have to use a couple in a reno I have coming up. Still a 6" minimum, or is it less because the box is shallower?
You do awesome and informative videos! Thank you for sharing them with us!
I"ve used this "style" of connector and I love them! I'm not sure why the traditional nuts are still being used (obviously cost?). The only reason I use wire nuts is because I have a ton. Once those are gone I'm not going back.
I WOULD HAVE NEVER THOUGHT OF THAT!!!
Thanks bro
I ran into a problem with a WAGO connector when extending 40's vintage wire that has thicker insulation than Romex. You need to strip more insulation off of the old wire in order for the wire to seat properly. Be sure to do a tug test. Sometimes I will also wrap the levers in electric tape to keep them from accidently opening and/or to be sure none of the stripped wire is exposed.
WAGO do larger ones for thicker cable you know. Wire nuts are not safe..
@@steveemmett9540 I have some of the larger WAGO's for 10 ga. wire. I was just surprised that the old cloth insulated 14 ga. wire was as thick as it was.
Yeah, you might need to be more precise and with modern Romex you can strip it so it in just inside but not where there is contact with the metal inside.
Love them In line wago
Good video im just gonna recommend to pull on the wire slightly to see if there's slack from the wall. Sometimes pushing it back up helps make it easier to make the outlet fit. Most houses this is the issue.
Yeah, I find with outlets slinging a little wire out of the wall and into the box and then doing the reverse when closing helps. It is not as common with switches. I alos noted that switches are 99% backstabbed unlike receptacles. That pretty much tells you what the qualification of the worker was.
Well explain 😊👍
I changed an AC outlet a while back, it worked perfect for a while. Then I plugged in portable heater and there were cracks in the insulation I didn't see. The draw from that heater blew the circuit breaker and cut off the black and ground wires leaving only the hot wire. All three were short to begin with. Not up to code. I may try and use the inline Wago splicers to repair the wires. But no more electric heaters. I wonder if my Window AC would cause an issue with this plug? Computers and other electronics worked perfectly on it. Apparently it was the amps that caused the short. Also my outlet boxes are the old metal type.
I have all my wire connectors in the carry boxes with clear cover I bought at harbor freight years back, all my wire tools in a carry bag to make life easy , Just a DIY guy!!!! wired my BBQ shed , run wire from home to sub panel also going to have solar power to recharge my vtoman portable power units.
Yup I do the same. Home Depot had the clear covered stackable Dewalt cases on sale a while back I just bought a bunch of them. They make great cases for all of the connectors! Sounds like you are going to have quite a lot powered!
@@HowToHomeDIY I buy from lowes and home depot too. Harbor Freight member of the inside trade club, but I watch what tools to buy and not to buy. No air tools from them I buy name brand tools. but other items at HF are okay to buy
My biggest issue is 4 gang boxes that don't have enough room for four deep smart home switches... or the like. Also multiple dimmers on one circuit for LEDs have major issues with flickering and buzzing. I have resorted to putting a tungsten blub in one spot to help increase the load. I feel these circuits should be designed with leds in mind these days. I have heard of some resorting to fx lighting as a standard. (What is used on stage, etc.)
I know I am old-fashioned but I trust those Wago connectors like I trust the "push-in" connectors on devices like receptacles and switches where the tip of a spring bites into the wire to make the connection. I have seen too many device failures at that point. I know they are code compliant but I believe it is a less-quality connection than twisting the copper together and protecting it with a good wire nut. I totally understand how an electrician can save time and make more money using these connectors but they are the weak point in the chain, especially when used anywhere near a saltwater body (ocean front, bays, etc.) where corrosion comes strongly into play. I have sent Electricians home that refused to hard wire each device on a job.
the mechanism of a wago is more positive than stab connectors, but I still have concerns with the fact there's an extra point of connection on each splice, and there is a smaller contact area. I use them for connections that I expect to be taking apart and reconnecting on a regular basis.
@@kenbrown2808 Someone else here said something similar, using Wago connectors for testing is certainly better than alligator clips.
Valid point!
@@samTollefson if you're moving the connection a LOT then alligator clips are easier to work with, but when you have components with a high wear rate, it makes changing them out easier.
@@kenbrown2808 Thank you!
thanks for the info
You are very welcome. Glad you found it helpful. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
I've never liked wire nuts. Just something about them. But when I found wago connectors I was so happy.
Hand coordination is tough!
I found the tan wire nuts a while back, they became my favorites quickly.
This guy likes tan nuts.
Question: do short wires pose a fire or safety risk? I recently replaced a wired smoke detector and did something stupid, which was cut off parts of the wires in the box with a stripper. Now the black wire is about 3-4″ and the white wire is about 4″. Is it ok for one wire to be shorter than the other, or do they have to be the same length? I know they are not code compliant, but I'm not noticing anything strange. I don't want it to possibly start a fire in the future though from my smoke detector of all places. Please let me know if I need to extend the wires just to be safe.
I been using the Wago connectors on DIY project and talk about making life alot easier. The wirernuts always takes up so much room, which mades it a B@@@@, to get multiple switches in the box.
What term would you search to even find residential electrical codes? I searched for my area and can’t find anything. I used township and county and state websites.
1) (first time seeing your channel) I noticed right away you wear the non-conductive wedding band. Nice touch.
2) Do they make the inline quick splice device for interfacing aluminum wiring (in older houses) to copper pigtails for code compliance? Currently we have to use twist locks with antiox for corrosion protection.
* Thanks for the concise presentation.
They also make non-conductive screwdrivers, I own a set.
“If I measure from the back it’s at least 8 inches”
“But if I measure from the base, it’s still at least 6 inches”
I see you bro.
I've come across this issue many times, frustrating for sure.
My only question is how easily can those connectors come un latched?
Shoving the wires back into the box I just wonder if they can be opened and not seen.
Way too often. They do take a pretty good amount of force to open them but yes, it is possible. I always try to be careful when pushing my wires back into the box when using them. I have seen when pushing them in, if one is not paying attention and pushing the wires in with some decent force, the latch catching on another wire. Thank you for the question!
@@HowToHomeDIY Some put electrical tape around the levers for that reason.
I worked on a two story modular home once and found the wires between sections were connected via push in connectors that I found in the floor of the second floor/ ceiling of the first floor, it made sense but seemed cheap for such an expensive home.
Yeah I am not a fan at all of the push in connectors.
Those Tyco connectors can be prone to failure if they're just left flopping about. In the mobile home setup instructions, they'll usually make you nail or screw the mated pair through provided mounting slots, to the joists nearby.
Early in my apprenticeship, a customer wanted nothing to do with them, so he had us place the 20 or so splices in a 12x12x4 box in his basement.
I wonder if Wago connectors can be used in Canada ?
What about soldering could you soldering them would that be acceptable? Because I feel like this is a much better connection than any other connection like this. Does anybody know about this?
Can I use this technique to relocate a receptacle a few feet away? Thx.
great video!
I just recently ran across a problem like this with a metal ceiling box and light. The light was always flickering, so when I opened it up to replace the fixture, I found that there was barely enough wire to meet in the middle before going out the opposite side and to the next room. The wires twisted together with only a turn and a pigtail, soldered together with a torch (I could see where the burns were) and wrapped with tape, no wirenut. I was honestly amazed it never caused a fire. After stripping and cleaning up the wire, there was hardly enough left to get into the box. I ended up having to run new wire from both directions and finding a similar mess in the rooms before and after this box. I don't know how many years it was like that, but now I'm hunting for of the same. I've only been in this house for a year.
In line connectors are great, but I would recommend using some black electrical tape around them to keep the levers set. Thank you for the video.
The levers never go up. Tape is nonsens.
There are one time WAGOs without levers too
Had lever go up on one after pushed into the box. I now pay much closer attention to how it lays in the box. Although with nuts how you lay it in the box is also important. There are times where one might have to push things a bit more than normal and nuts seem to fair better in that situation.
My biggest problem with wire nuts has been there is never enough room in the box and bending any thicker solid wire grades is a force nightmare. It would be nice to see you do a video showing what to do with both the WACO and wire nuts pushing or winding them into old metal boxes., especially when you have to put more than two wires together, like in some ceiling fans. Any tips or methods would be appreciated.
Agree! Why they made those boxes so small is so dumb.
You can get Wacos with up to six parallel ports (maybe more) for when you have more than two wires to connect.
Personally - even for only two wires - I find the parallel Wacos are easier to push back into the box than the in-line version.
There is room, just not as much as there should be.
Try changing out to smart receptacles, which are quite larger than standard receptacles. Talking about frustration! Just not enough room in standard boxes. You either go deeper or wider or both.
Ceiling fans should have their own junction box above the ceiling, just like a smoke detector. Both are easy. You so not have all the power in / out and loads. Switches are the worse. I actually have a box with half leads just for lights, line in, line out, fan, etc. It is mess.
I was hoping for some unique compact suggestion, but not today... To often those boxes I have had to deal with were so short due to the former service guy or when they built the house used those push in the back connectors on the outlet or switch did not come out or they did not come out for me. The old old system had larger switches and outlets and sometimes a shallow electrical box. No room for even wire nuts.....
Great video - one question: the code says the length is measured from where the wire "emerges "from its raceway or cable sheath." Isn't that before the connectors you added, so what do the connectors gain in terms of the code? I'm sure I'm missing something about this. Love your channel.
You didn't miss anything. This is not a resolve for the code issue. This only fixes the functionality issue, making it easier to install the device.
@@17kcotsdoow86 thanks for the response, but I am confused… Why would you want to address the functionality issue if you can’t install the outlet to code? Perhaps only in circumstances where the outlet will not be inspected?
@dansklrvids7303 At the end of the day, it's to save the cost and possible esthetics of the repair. You can either tear open the walls to get the short wire to a different box to make a splice and then extend a new wire to the original box. Then repair walls/ceiling. Or you could add a new junction box with a blank cover (or add a new receptacle) close enough to the original problem box to make the splice.
In the real world, a customer is not going to pay to rewire their home because of short wires, possibly left from before the code was written as it is now. The resolve is safe it just doesn't fix the code issue with this rule.
@@17kcotsdoow86 thanks!
If you are going to do this, I suggest that your pigtails and wirenuts be long enough to be pushed all the way to the back of the box and then just the new wires come out of the box 6 inches.
This keeps the wirenuts from coming lose when folding the wire into the box after attaching the outlet.
It is impossible to push the wirenuts to the back of the box with the wires cut as short as you said and still be able to attach the outlet.
I always make 10-inch lengths of wire out of my scrap wire just for this reason.
The Wagos are a great idea but still unproven over time under high loads such as space heaters.
Even the Wagos should be pushed to the back of the box before attaching a strapped device (outlet).
The wire coming out of the box should be prefolded like a "W" so that it will compress into the box easily when mounting the device to the wall.
Here in Germany, Wago 2273 are way more common in junction boxes, and if i remember correctly they are in every way better than wire nuts. Less resistance, easier and faster, smaller, easier to reuse, and you can just add a wire to an existing connection or swap the Wago for a bigger one in less than 30 seconds. They are only good for up to 2,5mm2 (12AWG), but for up to 6mm2 (10AWG) there are versions of the Wago 773.
there is no way a wago has less resistance than a properly applied wire nut.
@@ronblack7870 You are somewhat right, a perfectly applied wire nut usually has a little over half the resistance of a Wago 2273, but as the wire nut itself doesn’t conduct electricity, there is no way to guarantee that low resistance while wagos just need somewhere between 10 to 15mm bare conductor pushed in as far as possible (officially 11mm but in my experience 10-15 still works just fine), which is undeniably easier and more repeatable than applying wire nuts perfectly every single time.
Some other benefits I was just reminded of are:
- direct connection between solid (Wago 2273) or solid and stranded (Wago 221) conductors *made from Copper, Aluminium and Steel* possible
- possible to remove any single wire without even touching the others, which is a unique feature not found on any other common connectors made for 3 or more wires.
- easy to check the connection of the individual conductors, basically impossible with wire nuts
What about the Wago 2273? Are they legal to use over there for solid wires? The 221s are great if you connect stranded wires but they are quite bulky.
They are legal but Ideal kind of has the push in connector market cornered with their In Sure connectors.
The 2 wire and inline models are MUCH smaller.
You kind of sound like Tony hinchcliff from kill Tony lol love the content thank you 🙏
I always leave a few inches of slack in the wall that can be pulled later to extend the wires if need. You never know when it will be needed 50 years for now