Yes, a main 12-3 Romex wire going into the attic (garage attic) from my house to the garage only comes about 2 inches from the wall Maybe much less. Always leave plenty of extra wire in J boxes and outlet boxes! Also I had dozens of poorly done wire nuts, and zero strain reliefs on a single J box. Every J box was open! Had lights flickering, went through and found a number of very poor connections. It's best to pretwist the wires with line man pliers before installing the wire nut. Always use quality wire nuts too
yes, I did. I replaced a lot of outlets and switches when we moved in; a bunch had short leads. Wish I'd thought of something like this. Got it done OK with needlenose, but this would have been easier.
Nice video. Yes, I came across this and used a 3 port Wago to help 'extend' the wires, as I wasn't aware of the inline Wago product. Nice to know for the future!
Way back in the late 80's when I started an apprenticeship (I didn't stay in the trade though) my employer taught me to always leave around 3" of slack inside the wall between the last staple and the box for "just in case" (his exact words). He also taught me to leave a full inch of sheathing inside the box for "just in case" and then to always leave 7" of wire inside the box for (you guessed it) "just in case". Basically this would ALWAYS leave the next guy at least 10" to play with and as he also told me "If 10" isn't enough for you then you're just greedy". I loved that guy.
I leave 4 in wall and 2 to 4 in the box depend in the number of wires which is actually code. The wire must extend a certain number of inches beyond the front of the box. Since I do not do it as a career I do not recall the number of inches.
Great video.. I've been an electrician for 38 years and I have always used wire nuts. Because of comments on my videos I bought some WAGO 221 connectors and I have they connected to a well pump which is a pretty taxing circuit for testing. If they hold up I'll start recommending them as well.
I have built 2 complete houses in my 60 yrs of life.....everything but the concrete and roofing...I hate both. The amount of connective "surface area making contact" between the 2 wires (or multiple) in these "Wago's" is almost molecular compared to using a wire nut. It's comparable to touching the very ends of 2 wires together....and that causes heat, corrosion and everything else that can go wrong in an electrical box. I can't believe any state building code allows this short-cut.
@@readmore3634 I agree for the most part but there are a few things to consider. The Wago does have a larger connective area and a better method of keeping tension than the back stab device connections. Like I mentioned I have some installed for testing. Second many people whole are unskilled in electrical work may have a better chance of making a lasting connection with a wago over a wire nut.
Yep, I found those Wago 221 straight connectors a few months aro and said to myself now this makes sense. Your not loosing any wire length and taking up less volume in the box. Great job explaining this short wire solution in the video.
@@JasperJanssen Those are push-ins (like backstabbing) and over time are not as secure as lever nuts. Also you shouldn't reuse them as removing the wire can weaken or break the metal tab that holds the wire in. After the wire is removed the end will need to be cut off so that will shorten the wire whereas the lever nuts can simply be opened and the wire removed cleanly.
@@kamX-rz4uy well, for one thing this is not true, they are still reusable after you remove a wire from them, but also and more importantly, you don’t have to cut off and strip fresh after it either. You remove them by twisting them around the wire while pulling. This is, in fact, supported use. So no, they’re not like backstabbing at all, and if you’d ever seen one you’d know. Don’t import the limitations of your shitty sockets onto these connector blocks just because they vaguely resemble the same outside appearance of being “a hole”. (The internals of the stab nuts are *exactly* the same as the lever nuts, just without the lever to open them up. So they’re also not “less secure over time than lever nuts”, no.)
@@kamX-rz4uy Not true. Push-ins as you call them is absolute standard issue in europe for solid wire. The universal ones with level, which the Americans start to discover are mainly only used for stranded. Three reasons: price, size and the lever which can’t be damaged. I’m a professional myself.
I've been chipping away at this issue in my older home. Thanks for the review with a simple breakdown of basic electrical code. You showed my "old" way that I've been using and the new. subscribed
NEVER force a wire into a closed wago - ensure the lever is up in the open position. Forcing a wire into a closed wago will result in a weak termination and damage the device.
Part of the problem may be advice from inspectors years ago. Two different ones told me that I was wasting too much copper by having what I considered to be compliant lengths. My response was that I was not trying to low ball the job.
Wow, I had not heard that one yet but like you said, it might explain why some of the remodels I have done, I have found short wires and I know it was installed by an electrician. That and neighborhoods go up as fast as possible and the inspectors arent checking super closely all of the boxes. Really appreciate the input Luther!
@@robertwazniak9495 lol not always, but sometimes. Also I know an inspector that was damn good in the trades but was now slightly obese, had a few injuries, and was older. So u kinda get a whole range, but I think personality (like any job) and a willingness to learn their craft is the most important thing.
I have used Wago connectors for a while now and like them very much. One tip would be to give it a single wrap of electrical tape to help keep the levers down. If your gang box is exceptionally stuffed full of wires, the levers can catch and pop up while shoving everything in.
I actually learned something I haven't seen in the numerous videos about the Wago connectors. That is that you don't have to open the lever to insert the wire. I just bought a box of them to use in rewiring my garage and basement this summer. I'm looking forward to the job.
Push in connectors are good for this too. Do t need to use a huge tan nut for 12AWG, can use just a two wire connector. Less expensive too. I keep Wago, push in and regular nuts in my box to fit a variety of situations.
I know some people really like the Insure push in connectors, I just personally don't care much for them. Especially with an option like Wago available. But they are certainly an approved option! And like you said you are prepared for numerous situation, which is the way to be! Thanks for the input.
Was concerned with the Wago's at high currents, did some testing. Used 14Awg wire with 30amps, after 1 hour the temperature rise was 15degC, wiggled and pulled the wires temp rise still at 15degC. Have no worries about the Wago connector having a poor connection or over heating. Over the years have seen many poor twist connector connections that fall apart when I did service. Will never use a twist connector again.
@@KameraShyNo longer (February 2024). 60 pieces for $24 on Amazon, same day delivery for Prime members. Forty cents each to quickly cure a wire issue while taking up a fraction of the space of wire nuts is a screaming bargain.
Great video - one question: the code says the length is measured from where the wire "emerges "from its raceway or cable sheath." Isn't that before the connectors you added, so what do the connectors gain in terms of the code? I'm sure I'm missing something about this. Love your channel.
@@17kcotsdoow86 thanks for the response, but I am confused… Why would you want to address the functionality issue if you can’t install the outlet to code? Perhaps only in circumstances where the outlet will not be inspected?
@dansklrvids7303 At the end of the day, it's to save the cost and possible esthetics of the repair. You can either tear open the walls to get the short wire to a different box to make a splice and then extend a new wire to the original box. Then repair walls/ceiling. Or you could add a new junction box with a blank cover (or add a new receptacle) close enough to the original problem box to make the splice. In the real world, a customer is not going to pay to rewire their home because of short wires, possibly left from before the code was written as it is now. The resolve is safe it just doesn't fix the code issue with this rule.
Ideal use for inline wago, BUT cable had yellow sheath, so it is presumably 12awg. and wago you showed (cle4ar center section) is only good up to 14awg. You should have wago 221-2401 (white center) for 12awg.
@@Tybeebee incorrect. The clear straight through is only rated for 14ga. If you freeze the video, you can even see the -14ga max rating printed directly on the side of it. It is a bit misleading because all of the other 221 are clear and are rated for 12, but not this connector. Only the white top ones are rated for 12.
@@Robnord1 incorrect. The clear straight through is only rated for 14ga. If you freeze the video, you can even see the -14ga max rating printed directly on the side of it. It is a bit misleading because all of the other 221 are clear and are rated for 12, but not this connector. Only the white top ones are rated for 12.
Great stuff! Thanks. I have a couple boxes with this problem that I need to address and this info will allow me to do so without the anxiety I was previously feeling.
Nice work. I also like to take a photo with my phone on the before and especially after of the connections just to make my OCD worrying head to not drive me insane wondering how good its done. But more just for reflection to see if I could have improved anything.
@@rb8049 Resistance is only slightly higher for most of the Wago style connectors and offer several other benefits over wire nuts. I especially like Wago's when combining stranded and solid wires.
@@rb8049there’s a video here on TH-cam where someone tested all the wire connection devices, including Wago and wire nuts. The Wago’s worked fine way past the rated amps of the breaker.
I ran into a problem with a WAGO connector when extending 40's vintage wire that has thicker insulation than Romex. You need to strip more insulation off of the old wire in order for the wire to seat properly. Be sure to do a tug test. Sometimes I will also wrap the levers in electric tape to keep them from accidently opening and/or to be sure none of the stripped wire is exposed.
@@steveemmett9540 I have some of the larger WAGO's for 10 ga. wire. I was just surprised that the old cloth insulated 14 ga. wire was as thick as it was.
Yeah, you might need to be more precise and with modern Romex you can strip it so it in just inside but not where there is contact with the metal inside.
I know what’s it’s like to have a short wire going into the box and how unsatisfying that can be for everyone, so thanks for the great video, very helpful.
My biggest problem with wire nuts has been there is never enough room in the box and bending any thicker solid wire grades is a force nightmare. It would be nice to see you do a video showing what to do with both the WACO and wire nuts pushing or winding them into old metal boxes., especially when you have to put more than two wires together, like in some ceiling fans. Any tips or methods would be appreciated.
You can get Wacos with up to six parallel ports (maybe more) for when you have more than two wires to connect. Personally - even for only two wires - I find the parallel Wacos are easier to push back into the box than the in-line version.
Try changing out to smart receptacles, which are quite larger than standard receptacles. Talking about frustration! Just not enough room in standard boxes. You either go deeper or wider or both.
Ceiling fans should have their own junction box above the ceiling, just like a smoke detector. Both are easy. You so not have all the power in / out and loads. Switches are the worse. I actually have a box with half leads just for lights, line in, line out, fan, etc. It is mess.
Those are a great option but for the ground wire it's better to use the little copper splice cap because it's smaller and gives a very strong and permanent connection. You will need crimpers that have the crimper on the end of the pliers, so you can get to the part that you need to. In fact when I need maximum room in the box I use the insulated crimp on devices, what are much smaller than the Waygos. When you have something like a GFCI or a dimmer switch sometimes you need more room in the box.
Yes, ground and neutral bundles are ideal but if you have 12 it is not practical. Even on my own house I have 9 wires. Sorry, but a pair of 6 is much easier.
@actionjksn - I was about to make the same comment about ground crimps. But considering that the topic is "too short conductors", people may come across the situation where some numb nuts cut off the off the crimped ground pigtail, leaving just a stub in the box. In that case, something like the wago may be your only option.
@@jeffeverde1 Yep, it was my situation recently while installing a KASA switch and dimmer, I had to use 3 and 1 I was able to just use a wire nut. I most use them with items that have a stranded wire. I do NOT like mixing stranded with solid without using a Wago unlike all solid wire. KASA comes with 2 or 4 stranded wires depending on if a dimmer or switch and in the dimmer location all but ground and neutral were too short and ground and neutral on the were stranded. I had to use inline out the load, line was long enough. I also put electric tape over each to avoid accidental disengagement and twist each set. I have found since a Wago spreads wire more and in a line that rotating the wire around each other in a bundle is easier and more reliable than using linesman pliers. I have shot videos about it I will eventually post.
I've come across this issue many times, frustrating for sure. My only question is how easily can those connectors come un latched? Shoving the wires back into the box I just wonder if they can be opened and not seen.
Way too often. They do take a pretty good amount of force to open them but yes, it is possible. I always try to be careful when pushing my wires back into the box when using them. I have seen when pushing them in, if one is not paying attention and pushing the wires in with some decent force, the latch catching on another wire. Thank you for the question!
What about soldering could you soldering them would that be acceptable? Because I feel like this is a much better connection than any other connection like this. Does anybody know about this?
Good video and good info. I recently had to add a plug and extend a light switch connection. Though I knew how to,do it, I wasn’t up to speed on modern devices and code and your videos were a great help.
What if you have older metal mud in boxes that are smaller than today's standard sizes. I have an older house were the metal boxes are almost 3/4 in shallower than a plastic one. Most of them are Appleton boxes that are around 100 years old cause that is when the house was first wired.
rip it out and replace with the old construction style blue box u see in this video. They sell them in various depths and widths pending on how many gang the existing box is. However if your depth is shallow which can be they also sell ones that arent as deep . They are very easy to install..
@@culbyj3665 They can be a real PITA to rip out without trashing the plaster wall. An old work box is a good solution, but I'd go to a lot of trouble to avoid having to remove an old metal box that's mudded in.
I've found with levernuts that you can stab solid wire in without lifting the lever. Stranded wire you need to lift the lever first. I'm rigging my home with a bunch of smart switches and the WAGOs make the job so easy.
What’s hilarious to me is you have written negative and sarcastic comments like this on at least two of my videos now, yet you’re still here. Amazing! 😂
@@HowToHomeDIY What can I say, I like good comedy and you make me laugh with your pretend drama and your attitude that only you know the right and wrong way to do things.
Never said I was the only one. But for many they didn’t know about these connectors or options. See, I don’t make my videos with the know it alls in mind like yourself but for the majority of people that don’t know and could use help. But you keep on laughing and commenting away! It only gives others a laugh at the pettiness and helps the video reach more people. So thanks!!
I had a situation just last week. Beach houses sometimes have grooved outside paneling on the outside. I had 4 sections that had rotted and had to be replaced. I took down the non working fixture and saw that the wire had rotted right where it cam out of a 2X4. The cause of the problem was the installation of the fixture. Someone had hung it over a groove. Water ran down the groove and into the fixture. I had told the guy replacing the paneling to pull the wire back from the 2X4 so I could move the fixture after the paneling was replaced. He didn't. I'm 5 hours away and can't supervise the people who work on my house. I drilled a hole 8 inches down from the old hole and pulled the wire back. Put in a new box after pulling a piece of cable toward the unneeded hole where the wire had come out before. The carpenter had cut a new hole where the fixture had been on the old paneling. I spliced the cables together and put a water proof cover over the splice box and caulked it to seal it. I installed the fixture over the old hole location he'd drilled. I filled the groove in the paneling with caulk so water couldn't run behind the fixture and put a bead over the top of the fixture. I put 2 coats of paint over the splice cover and it's practically invisible. I've owned this house for 22 years and it's been completely renovated. Most of my repair work years ago was related to poor workmanship. Today I am still redoing bad workmanship on recently down work. It is very difficult to find good workman here on the NC coast. I'm fortunate that I'm handy. Most of my experience comes from my time as a Navy Seabee working in a base public works department for four years.
I once saw a test of different types of devices to connect household wires together. One thing that stayed with me was that the WAGO connector had a small but yet significant voltage drop across it. To me this means that the WAGO connector doesn't have enough surface of connection to the wires. I wouldn't trust a WAGO connector to carry a full current load on a wire with out there being at least some heating of the connector. I like the twist on connectors but I also think that the best possible connection would be to twist the wires together and solder them and cover it with heat shrink. Maybe 2 layers of heat shrink material. It would definitely take up the least amount of space!
@@jash21222 : In one way of thinking of it, yes, everything has a resistance to it, even the wire itself. However, if the device holding two pieces of wire together produces more resistance than the same length of wire would (basically zero inches and thus 0 ohms) then the device is providing an extra resistance in the electrical path. In the video I watched the wire nuts had the least resistance. Basically any connector/connection that has less surface contact than the equivalence of the volume of the wire's surface will provide a resistance and lower the wire's ability to carry current. And low but not zero resistance with a high current draw creates a heater and thus creates a potential hazard. The absolute best connection possible, though very impractical when doing house wiring, would be to solder the wires together. An absolute zero resistance or drop of voltage. I would never use Wago connectors, especially in a circuit where a high current draw would be expected. I don't think Wago connectors provide any better of a connection than the infamous "stabbing" connectors in cheep outlets often use in mobile home construction and that are often responsible for fires.
I"ve used this "style" of connector and I love them! I'm not sure why the traditional nuts are still being used (obviously cost?). The only reason I use wire nuts is because I have a ton. Once those are gone I'm not going back.
I was a Electrician and we used Twister Wire Nuts. The tan Twister like you showed can be twisted on 2 straight wires and then use your 5/16 nut driver over the back of the wire nut. Try one like this and then take off the wire nut to see the results. It will look just like you twisted the wire first. By the way, I would have straighten the existing wires with my linesman pliers and then installed tan Twister wire nuts on each. Then I would have selected a good device. We used spec grade back wired receptacles, where the screw has a plate that tightens down on a straight wire. Like Lowes Item # 24356.
I never (absolutely never) pre-twist wire pairs when using an appropriate wire nut. Only when there are 3 or more conductors. IMO, it all works much better that way and it's what the nuts are designed for.
You can also end up with short wires from damaged ends getting trimmed or broken off too. Copper can only take so many bends before work-hardening and becoming brittle. Aluminum wiring is even worse.
Nice, didn't know they had inline connectors too. The house i bought has a bit of DIY wiring the inspector didn't catch. Front garage sconces have romex going into loft but not on a circuit, at least they left like 20ft for each one. Couple outdoor light fixtures not using junction boxes. I have a switch that, i assume goes to an outside fixture above the rear garage door. The romex is very short and rigid so pigtails may help. I did replace all my T8 flourescent fixtures with LED using wago - so much easier. Edited fir stupid autocomplete errors.
I've always hated figuring out how to shove that 6" of 3 wires back into the box. I always feel like it's going to cause shorts. Also it seems that, at least in my house, when I buy a new switch or outlet it's got a larger body than the old switch I'm replacing. Especially, those that have a USB port integrated, or have dimming, or multifunctional capability. I feel that outlet boxes need to be as deep as the cavity any more.
Yeah I think it is going to become more and more of an issue as more people start buying smart switches and receptacles for their homes. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
@@tightwad Nice to hear. I bought a brand new house in 96 and damned if boxes weren't the smallest and most were lucky to have 5in of wire extending out past the wall. I know spec houses have to be built cheap .... but damn I'd sure rather have a house built by a professional and have all the intelligent design things highlighted that explained the higher cost. Not sure I'd like seeing the blank cover plates in the walls but ... having the extra space sure would be liberating. :)
@@HowToHomeDIY I think, IMO, that the industry needs to go the way of industrial automation using PLC's or that type of controllers. Instead of multiple points of failures, that all controls are brought to a single location, and switches are wired with low voltage and thus allowing to control outlets via relays from central location.
Your video preview pic was a bit misleading/confusing as it seemed to convey the wago was dangerous as it had a slash through it. Loved the video tho - informative,clear and explained a few things I didnt know about the code
0:21 it’s a surprise when jobs aren’t like this lol I always end up fixing other people’s mistakes or coverups. But I show up and I don’t steal so I get more work than I can handle. wish I could find a couple helpers who are the same
And your helpers will be off on their own undercutting your prices, just as soon as they learn enough to earn beer momey. I tried for 30 years..................
They can straighten them out but when copper gets bent back and forth it becomes weak. So I just prefer to start with fresh copper and know that I am not going to have any issues with it later. Thanks for the input!
I have had many inspections over the years for electrical work. Never once did an inspector pull outlets out of the box to check length. The do check that wire is fastened close enough to the boxes. I like long wires but working on older homes rarely are they that long. Most come out of boxes 2" or less. Only in really short situations do you actually have to add wires. It isn't actually an unsafe issue, it is an issue of working on it in the future. Also some times adding additional wires into a box becomes a code issue. Over crowding a box can be more unsafe and more of a code issue than short wires. Most areas here in Pennsylvania, do not require that you update to modern code unless you are completely re-wiring an electrical system.
Is it really necessary to cut the bent ends off the wires in the box? Couldn't you just straighten them out with the pliers? It seems like it'd give a little more room to work if you're using wire nuts.
It would give more room but here is the concern. The copper had already been bent pretty sharply in places. When you bend copper one way and then you bend it back the other direction, it weakens it quite a lot. So while it MIGHT be ok to just straighten it out, it may also snap off at some point and provide a possible fire hazard later. I just always try to show what is safest. Does that make sense? I hope I was able to answer your question.
@@HowToHomeDIY Most wires inside a j box do not get the anmout of bending you refer toward. Too silly to pay attention while working can cause this error to present itself.
I like the Wagos but I also like the Ideal push on connectors especially in this situation. That have a smaller footprint and are great for pigtail applications with minimal clutter.
Here in Germany, Wago 2273 are way more common in junction boxes, and if i remember correctly they are in every way better than wire nuts. Less resistance, easier and faster, smaller, easier to reuse, and you can just add a wire to an existing connection or swap the Wago for a bigger one in less than 30 seconds. They are only good for up to 2,5mm2 (12AWG), but for up to 6mm2 (10AWG) there are versions of the Wago 773.
@@ronblack7870 You are somewhat right, a perfectly applied wire nut usually has a little over half the resistance of a Wago 2273, but as the wire nut itself doesn’t conduct electricity, there is no way to guarantee that low resistance while wagos just need somewhere between 10 to 15mm bare conductor pushed in as far as possible (officially 11mm but in my experience 10-15 still works just fine), which is undeniably easier and more repeatable than applying wire nuts perfectly every single time. Some other benefits I was just reminded of are: - direct connection between solid (Wago 2273) or solid and stranded (Wago 221) conductors *made from Copper, Aluminium and Steel* possible - possible to remove any single wire without even touching the others, which is a unique feature not found on any other common connectors made for 3 or more wires. - easy to check the connection of the individual conductors, basically impossible with wire nuts
Great tips, but it assumes the box fill allows the added space the wire nuts (or Wagos) and wire will take up. I've run into situations where the box is already at capacity and you can't fit the extensions... you have to then cut out the old box and place a larger capacity box in its place.
Box fill does not include connectors or added wire such as pigtails in their calculations. So from a code standpoint it is my understanding it doesn’t make a difference. If there is not room for them then I would guess the box is already overfilled or a device like a GFCI or smart switch are going in it which take up a ton of room but still only count as 2 in box full calculations. Like you said, sometimes the box needs to be replaced with a deeper one. Is this your understanding as well?
A girl has to do what a girl has to do. If you have a box at or above capacity you have to redo the mess even if it means to open more of the wall then you want to. Document it! Unless you did the first install this will help you.
In my 1930's house, circuits wiring for the entire house was routed through one 4x4 metal box. Packed tight. It was serviced by 2 glass plug-type fuses. But then there were far, far fewer electrical applications. Shows how much different it now. I unraveled it and re-routed a number of circuits, all in EMT.
I have AL wiring in my house and these WAGOS work great for it! I used some OXGARD (instead of the Wago brand) poured 3/4 into the port, and put my 10 AWG and 12 AWG AL wires precoated in AntiOX into these and they are working great 3+ years. I like to wrap the WAGO levers and use the electrical tape with the correct coloring code (Black = hot, etc) to correspond to each wire. (I also try to wrap the wires inside the wagos to hold them together in the splicer) I've accidentally flipped the levers while installing these in the box, I think it's prudent to tape the levers, even though WAGO doesn't recommend it. People should consider using WAGO for AL Wire. I would recommend using freshly cut, unscratched and clean AL wire that has been pre-coated in antiox. (People should use the antiox that WAGO recommends. I didn't buy it because its stupidly expensive for some reason.) I recently inspected to look for any signs of bulging/expansion, and oxidation and there was none. These splicers should be inspected every 5 years for oxidation, expansion, etc. Too much expansion could release the levers and possibly make a lose connection - which is why I like to tape my wires together as they go into the splicer. Devices that use continous high current have bulged on me using the ALUMICONN lug splice connectors, and I've had ALUMICONN lugs with no anti ox paste in them, which is why it's important to pre-inspect these to make sure they have sufficient antiox in them, and to check for tight connections before installing. Noalox works great if you need to top off on fresh antiox in these.
Now you just have to find another way of connecting the outlet... Maybe something without screws and without exposed conductors. America really should be more open to inventions we made in europe 30 years or so ago. You can pull out an any outlet here without shocking instantly yourself, even the ones with screws. Code can be changed...
If you are going to do this, I suggest that your pigtails and wirenuts be long enough to be pushed all the way to the back of the box and then just the new wires come out of the box 6 inches. This keeps the wirenuts from coming lose when folding the wire into the box after attaching the outlet. It is impossible to push the wirenuts to the back of the box with the wires cut as short as you said and still be able to attach the outlet. I always make 10-inch lengths of wire out of my scrap wire just for this reason. The Wagos are a great idea but still unproven over time under high loads such as space heaters. Even the Wagos should be pushed to the back of the box before attaching a strapped device (outlet). The wire coming out of the box should be prefolded like a "W" so that it will compress into the box easily when mounting the device to the wall.
I would use much longer pigtails so that the splices never need to be disturbed. They should sit in the back of the outlet box and never move if you install or remove a device from the box. One of the wiring specs we had on a job was that wire length in an outlet box was a minimum of 200cm or about 8 inches. It just makes installing receptacles and switches a lot easier to work with.
There are recommendations for what wires should sit where in the box (although most people might just jam them in there). It is recommended that grounds go in the back (first), then neutrals, then hots. It’s to be safer.
Using the Wago's make it so you don't need any extra taking up space as if you ever need to replace the pigtail with something longer, it takes 2 seconds to replace. You can even pre-attach the pigtails to the outlet before attaching to the Wago so it is even easier.
Is the service loop/love loop against building code? Coming from the low-voltage/communication sector, it's how we roll, 'cause stuff happens. Those butt-joint Wagos are interesting! Not sure how I feel about them in this application, though. Especially in a stuffed box, having the wires come back on themselves in a regular Wago or a wire nut may actually afford you some extra flexibility when tucking everything back in. I'm also curious about how electrical code addresses wire length in pancake boxes, as I may have to use a couple in a reno I have coming up. Still a 6" minimum, or is it less because the box is shallower? You do awesome and informative videos! Thank you for sharing them with us!
I have all my wire connectors in the carry boxes with clear cover I bought at harbor freight years back, all my wire tools in a carry bag to make life easy , Just a DIY guy!!!! wired my BBQ shed , run wire from home to sub panel also going to have solar power to recharge my vtoman portable power units.
Yup I do the same. Home Depot had the clear covered stackable Dewalt cases on sale a while back I just bought a bunch of them. They make great cases for all of the connectors! Sounds like you are going to have quite a lot powered!
@@HowToHomeDIY I buy from lowes and home depot too. Harbor Freight member of the inside trade club, but I watch what tools to buy and not to buy. No air tools from them I buy name brand tools. but other items at HF are okay to buy
I just recently ran across a problem like this with a metal ceiling box and light. The light was always flickering, so when I opened it up to replace the fixture, I found that there was barely enough wire to meet in the middle before going out the opposite side and to the next room. The wires twisted together with only a turn and a pigtail, soldered together with a torch (I could see where the burns were) and wrapped with tape, no wirenut. I was honestly amazed it never caused a fire. After stripping and cleaning up the wire, there was hardly enough left to get into the box. I ended up having to run new wire from both directions and finding a similar mess in the rooms before and after this box. I don't know how many years it was like that, but now I'm hunting for of the same. I've only been in this house for a year.
Iam in the same situation and came up with this same solution. I even have had the WAGO already. I have been pausing a bit before getting underway because a concern about the WAGO latches releasing unexpectedly while tucking away the wires. Another thing is if say a receptacle is not a branch circuit terminal, could I connect the grounding wires as input to a WAGO and one wire out to the ground screw?
Question: do short wires pose a fire or safety risk? I recently replaced a wired smoke detector and did something stupid, which was cut off parts of the wires in the box with a stripper. Now the black wire is about 3-4″ and the white wire is about 4″. Is it ok for one wire to be shorter than the other, or do they have to be the same length? I know they are not code compliant, but I'm not noticing anything strange. I don't want it to possibly start a fire in the future though from my smoke detector of all places. Please let me know if I need to extend the wires just to be safe.
Do you guys in the US ever use the 'standard' WAGO 2273 push-ons? Those are the go-to wire connectors across the pond if there's no stranded wire involved. They're a lot cheaper than the 221's and much slimmer as well. And they come in a number of different sizes (including a 2-wire).
@@kamX-rz4uy @Nervous Breakdown Both 221s and 2273 have their place. The 221 series is great up to the 5-wire limit. The 2273 series is great up to 8 solid wires. If you have both, you'll likely find a use. If you can only afford one, 221 is the way to go.
Great video. I thought you were a fan of Wago, so the cover picture confused me. It shows an arrow labeled "bad". Was the misleading picture to drive more traffic?
I wouldn’t call me a fan of Wago, I think they serve a purpose and I use them in certain applications. No the bad is not intended for the Wago but the connection underneath.
This is great info. One thing I'll add that others have mentioned is that you can use crimp insulated butt connections, too. Both wagos and crimps will work to connect stranded and solid wire together, something that can be done with wirenuts but isn't always great. Using stranded 12 instead of solid can make it easier to get everything in and out of a box. Same volume, but less force required. 12 stranded THHN is readily available by the foot at box stores.
@@jamescole3152 :) Because you wouldn't do it that way, or because you wouldn't give advice to a DIY person? Which wirenuts do you carry in your bag, and are they still rated for a solid/stranded mix? Because Ideal bought most of them, and they're not all rated that way anymore.
I have to move (lower it) a wall plug and one of the wire (coming from the top) is too short, Can you tell me if i can elongate the wire with a junction without having that joint put in a jonction box ? Thank you.
I been using the Wago connectors on DIY project and talk about making life alot easier. The wirernuts always takes up so much room, which mades it a B@@@@, to get multiple switches in the box.
Is it possible to do an inline twisted splice , solder it and cover it with a couple of layers of heatshrink tubing? or is that not code approved! I have soldered short ground conductors before after twisting them together, but not hot and nuetral wires.
I have used the 221 for many years. Industrial Electrical Distributors have carried them far longer than Residential Retailers. I am curious if anyone had the lever flip up while pushing the wires into the box. I always double check but have only found one in 15 years.
It has happened to me. Only once. After that I made sure it was seated where I wanted it and that everything was still in it's place. Appreciate the input Tom!
Have you ever come across this issue? I feel like it is way more common than it should be!
Yes, a main 12-3 Romex wire going into the attic (garage attic) from my house to the garage only comes about 2 inches from the wall Maybe much less. Always leave plenty of extra wire in J boxes and outlet boxes! Also I had dozens of poorly done wire nuts, and zero strain reliefs on a single J box. Every J box was open! Had lights flickering, went through and found a number of very poor connections.
It's best to pretwist the wires with line man pliers before installing the wire nut. Always use quality wire nuts too
Yes, I have.
Henry Homeowner does this crap a lot.
yes, I did. I replaced a lot of outlets and switches when we moved in; a bunch had short leads. Wish I'd thought of something like this. Got it done OK with needlenose, but this would have been easier.
Nice video. Yes, I came across this and used a 3 port Wago to help 'extend' the wires, as I wasn't aware of the inline Wago product. Nice to know for the future!
huh, always assumed that the service loop was adequate as opposed to filling the box. Thanks for referencing the standard outright!
Way back in the late 80's when I started an apprenticeship (I didn't stay in the trade though) my employer taught me to always leave around 3" of slack inside the wall between the last staple and the box for "just in case" (his exact words). He also taught me to leave a full inch of sheathing inside the box for "just in case" and then to always leave 7" of wire inside the box for (you guessed it) "just in case". Basically this would ALWAYS leave the next guy at least 10" to play with and as he also told me "If 10" isn't enough for you then you're just greedy". I loved that guy.
I leave 4 in wall and 2 to 4 in the box depend in the number of wires which is actually code. The wire must extend a certain number of inches beyond the front of the box. Since I do not do it as a career I do not recall the number of inches.
Sounds like a really cool guy.
2 inches of sheathing in the box is more common, even my short runs have that much.
Yes, typically 1-2 inches of sheathing is used in the back of the box.
Same way I was taught in 2022
Tucking (cramming) the wires into the box is a little bit of an art. Something you don’t see on TH-cam.
I discovered In-Line Wagos a few years ago and they're a game changer. Worth every penny.
Great video.. I've been an electrician for 38 years and I have always used wire nuts. Because of comments on my videos I bought some WAGO 221 connectors and I have they connected to a well pump which is a pretty taxing circuit for testing. If they hold up I'll start recommending them as well.
my torture test is in a corrosive environment.
I agree, repeated High inrush is a great stress test.
@@steveurbach3093 Exactly.. And so far they are holding up.
I have built 2 complete houses in my 60 yrs of life.....everything but the concrete and roofing...I hate both.
The amount of connective "surface area making contact" between the 2 wires (or multiple) in these "Wago's" is almost molecular compared to using a wire nut. It's comparable to touching the very ends of 2 wires together....and that causes heat, corrosion and everything else that can go wrong in an electrical box. I can't believe any state building code allows this short-cut.
@@readmore3634 I agree for the most part but there are a few things to consider. The Wago does have a larger connective area and a better method of keeping tension than the back stab device connections. Like I mentioned I have some installed for testing. Second many people whole are unskilled in electrical work may have a better chance of making a lasting connection with a wago over a wire nut.
Yep, I found those Wago 221 straight connectors a few months aro and said to myself now this makes sense. Your not loosing any wire length and taking up less volume in the box. Great job explaining this short wire solution in the video.
I agree! Really appreciate all of the feedback!
Check out the wago 2273-202. Waaaay smaller than the 221s, even the inlines.
@@JasperJanssen Those are push-ins (like backstabbing) and over time are not as secure as lever nuts. Also you shouldn't reuse them as removing the wire can weaken or break the metal tab that holds the wire in. After the wire is removed the end will need to be cut off so that will shorten the wire whereas the lever nuts can simply be opened and the wire removed cleanly.
@@kamX-rz4uy well, for one thing this is not true, they are still reusable after you remove a wire from them, but also and more importantly, you don’t have to cut off and strip fresh after it either. You remove them by twisting them around the wire while pulling. This is, in fact, supported use.
So no, they’re not like backstabbing at all, and if you’d ever seen one you’d know. Don’t import the limitations of your shitty sockets onto these connector blocks just because they vaguely resemble the same outside appearance of being “a hole”.
(The internals of the stab nuts are *exactly* the same as the lever nuts, just without the lever to open them up. So they’re also not “less secure over time than lever nuts”, no.)
@@kamX-rz4uy Not true. Push-ins as you call them is absolute standard issue in europe for solid wire. The universal ones with level, which the Americans start to discover are mainly only used for stranded. Three reasons: price, size and the lever which can’t be damaged. I’m a professional myself.
I've been chipping away at this issue in my older home. Thanks for the review with a simple breakdown of basic electrical code. You showed my "old" way that I've been using and the new. subscribed
NEVER force a wire into a closed wago - ensure the lever is up in the open position. Forcing a wire into a closed wago will result in a weak termination and damage the device.
Part of the problem may be advice from inspectors years ago. Two different ones told me that I was wasting too much copper by having what I considered to be compliant lengths. My response was that I was not trying to low ball the job.
Wow, I had not heard that one yet but like you said, it might explain why some of the remodels I have done, I have found short wires and I know it was installed by an electrician. That and neighborhoods go up as fast as possible and the inspectors arent checking super closely all of the boxes. Really appreciate the input Luther!
The "Inspector" title went to his head!
@@HowToHomeDIY The last lot along the major street by my place was subdivided. Sad, no yards on the entire throughway.
Inspectors are usually just tradesmen that couldn't make it doing the trade.
@@robertwazniak9495 lol not always, but sometimes. Also I know an inspector that was damn good in the trades but was now slightly obese, had a few injuries, and was older. So u kinda get a whole range, but I think personality (like any job) and a willingness to learn their craft is the most important thing.
I have used Wago connectors for a while now and like them very much. One tip would be to give it a single wrap of electrical tape to help keep the levers down. If your gang box is exceptionally stuffed full of wires, the levers can catch and pop up while shoving everything in.
You mean on the OUTSIDE of the levered junction and not on any wires, right? In that case I agree.
@@JLilliquist yep
@@mgweir3252 cool, out
... and then rotate the bundle with longer wires. It is actually easier then using a linesman's pliers.
I've been using (and love) Wagos for years but I never knew about the inline connectors. Ordering some right now. Thanks!
You are welcome! They can definitely be helpful!
The inline Wagos are relatively new. I used them when I rewired my 1950 house.
@@im2yys4u81 1968 here but no lead paint or asbestos.
I actually learned something I haven't seen in the numerous videos about the Wago connectors. That is that you don't have to open the lever to insert the wire. I just bought a box of them to use in rewiring my garage and basement this summer. I'm looking forward to the job.
Yeah, but so anyway. It also depends on the wire.
Thanks, I've been using my wire stretcher all these years!
I'll trade u my board stretcher for it. Wire stretchers are so rare they're almost a myth.
@@tightwad Board stretchers are infinitely more useful than cable stretchers, everyone needs both!
I recently started using the Wago. I love how easy they are compared to wire nuts.
Most notably you can SEE what's going on
Push in connectors are good for this too. Do t need to use a huge tan nut for 12AWG, can use just a two wire connector. Less expensive too.
I keep Wago, push in and regular nuts in my box to fit a variety of situations.
I know some people really like the Insure push in connectors, I just personally don't care much for them. Especially with an option like Wago available. But they are certainly an approved option! And like you said you are prepared for numerous situation, which is the way to be! Thanks for the input.
@@HowToHomeDIY Most of the time I'm using Wagos for testing circuits before the walls get closed up. Also good for diagnostics.
Yeah, I have a few of each.
Was concerned with the Wago's at high currents, did some testing. Used 14Awg wire with 30amps, after 1 hour the temperature rise was 15degC, wiggled and pulled the wires temp rise still at 15degC.
Have no worries about the Wago connector having a poor connection or over heating.
Over the years have seen many poor twist connector connections that fall apart when I did service.
Will never use a twist connector again.
I’ve stopped using wire nuts , they take up far to much space. Thank you I wasn’t aware of the in line wago. Very helpful!
enjoy the fire.
Inline Wagos are very recent, difficult to find in the US and expensive if you do.
@@KameraShyNo longer (February 2024). 60 pieces for $24 on Amazon, same day delivery for Prime members. Forty cents each to quickly cure a wire issue while taking up a fraction of the space of wire nuts is a screaming bargain.
@@soisaidtogod4248 old dude, wagos have been code in Europe for over 20 years now. What is this mythical fire you dream of?
Just bought a box of the Wago in lines, these things are the BOMB!
Great video - one question: the code says the length is measured from where the wire "emerges "from its raceway or cable sheath." Isn't that before the connectors you added, so what do the connectors gain in terms of the code? I'm sure I'm missing something about this. Love your channel.
You didn't miss anything. This is not a resolve for the code issue. This only fixes the functionality issue, making it easier to install the device.
@@17kcotsdoow86 thanks for the response, but I am confused… Why would you want to address the functionality issue if you can’t install the outlet to code? Perhaps only in circumstances where the outlet will not be inspected?
@dansklrvids7303 At the end of the day, it's to save the cost and possible esthetics of the repair. You can either tear open the walls to get the short wire to a different box to make a splice and then extend a new wire to the original box. Then repair walls/ceiling. Or you could add a new junction box with a blank cover (or add a new receptacle) close enough to the original problem box to make the splice.
In the real world, a customer is not going to pay to rewire their home because of short wires, possibly left from before the code was written as it is now. The resolve is safe it just doesn't fix the code issue with this rule.
@@17kcotsdoow86 thanks!
Thanks for the tip on wago inline connectors.
I wasn't "shocked" but I did have a "spark" of inspiration.
Ohhh I like that! 😂 I may have to use that one in the future.
@@HowToHomeDIY 👍
I received some samples of these inline Wago connectors and they are awesome for working in tight spaces.
Ideal use for inline wago, BUT cable had yellow sheath, so it is presumably 12awg. and wago you showed (cle4ar center section) is only good up to 14awg. You should have wago 221-2401 (white center) for 12awg.
Check their product specs. All of the 221 series are good for 12 AWG
There are two type we're talking about here: WAGO 221-2401(Max 12ga) and WAGO 221-2411(Max 14ga)
@@Tybeebee incorrect. The clear straight through is only rated for 14ga. If you freeze the video, you can even see the -14ga max rating printed directly on the side of it. It is a bit misleading because all of the other 221 are clear and are rated for 12, but not this connector. Only the white top ones are rated for 12.
@@Robnord1 incorrect. The clear straight through is only rated for 14ga. If you freeze the video, you can even see the -14ga max rating printed directly on the side of it. It is a bit misleading because all of the other 221 are clear and are rated for 12, but not this connector. Only the white top ones are rated for 12.
@@tsouristv5178 Thanks. Now I know why my large 221 assortment has white body straight throughs.
Excellent information as always. Thanks, keep up the great work.
Great stuff! Thanks. I have a couple boxes with this problem that I need to address and this info will allow me to do so without the anxiety I was previously feeling.
You are welcome! Really glad to hear it was helpful! Thanks a lot for the feedback Michael!
It seems mostly common with switches rather than receptacles.
Nice work. I also like to take a photo with my phone on the before and especially after of the connections just to make my OCD worrying head to not drive me insane wondering how good its done. But more just for reflection to see if I could have improved anything.
Wago’s are the way to go when cleaning and tidying up messy cluttered boxes.
They definitely do have their place. Thanks for the feedback Geoffrey!
Wagon have more resistance. Twist and nuts are better but just a bit more work.
@@rb8049 Resistance is only slightly higher for most of the Wago style connectors and offer several other benefits over wire nuts. I especially like Wago's when combining stranded and solid wires.
@@rb8049there’s a video here on TH-cam where someone tested all the wire connection devices, including Wago and wire nuts. The Wago’s worked fine way past the rated amps of the breaker.
@R B If you check out the tests online they do just fine. The wire melts before the Wago
I love all your videos! I'm learning a lot! My like always!
Really glad to hear you are finding value in the channel. Thanks a lot for the feedback and will see ya in the next one!
Another Great Video! BTW. I ended up with a pair of the Knipex Electricians pliers and you were right! They’re the best I’ve ever used.
I ran into a problem with a WAGO connector when extending 40's vintage wire that has thicker insulation than Romex. You need to strip more insulation off of the old wire in order for the wire to seat properly. Be sure to do a tug test. Sometimes I will also wrap the levers in electric tape to keep them from accidently opening and/or to be sure none of the stripped wire is exposed.
WAGO do larger ones for thicker cable you know. Wire nuts are not safe..
@@steveemmett9540 I have some of the larger WAGO's for 10 ga. wire. I was just surprised that the old cloth insulated 14 ga. wire was as thick as it was.
Yeah, you might need to be more precise and with modern Romex you can strip it so it in just inside but not where there is contact with the metal inside.
I know what’s it’s like to have a short wire going into the box and how unsatisfying that can be for everyone, so thanks for the great video, very helpful.
My biggest problem with wire nuts has been there is never enough room in the box and bending any thicker solid wire grades is a force nightmare. It would be nice to see you do a video showing what to do with both the WACO and wire nuts pushing or winding them into old metal boxes., especially when you have to put more than two wires together, like in some ceiling fans. Any tips or methods would be appreciated.
Agree! Why they made those boxes so small is so dumb.
You can get Wacos with up to six parallel ports (maybe more) for when you have more than two wires to connect.
Personally - even for only two wires - I find the parallel Wacos are easier to push back into the box than the in-line version.
There is room, just not as much as there should be.
Try changing out to smart receptacles, which are quite larger than standard receptacles. Talking about frustration! Just not enough room in standard boxes. You either go deeper or wider or both.
Ceiling fans should have their own junction box above the ceiling, just like a smoke detector. Both are easy. You so not have all the power in / out and loads. Switches are the worse. I actually have a box with half leads just for lights, line in, line out, fan, etc. It is mess.
How many amps are those in-line connectors good for? Seems to me that a heavy draw (electric heater, blow dryer, etc.) would create a hotspot there.
I've watch stress tests of these connecters and they hold up incredibly well. In most cases the wire burns before the connector fails.
Those are a great option but for the ground wire it's better to use the little copper splice cap because it's smaller and gives a very strong and permanent connection. You will need crimpers that have the crimper on the end of the pliers, so you can get to the part that you need to. In fact when I need maximum room in the box I use the insulated crimp on devices, what are much smaller than the Waygos. When you have something like a GFCI or a dimmer switch sometimes you need more room in the box.
Yes, ground and neutral bundles are ideal but if you have 12 it is not practical. Even on my own house I have 9 wires. Sorry, but a pair of 6 is much easier.
@actionjksn - I was about to make the same comment about ground crimps. But considering that the topic is "too short conductors", people may come across the situation where some numb nuts cut off the off the crimped ground pigtail, leaving just a stub in the box. In that case, something like the wago may be your only option.
@@jeffeverde1 Yeah people do some super dumb shit in electrical boxes.
@@jeffeverde1 Yep, it was my situation recently while installing a KASA switch and dimmer, I had to use 3 and 1 I was able to just use a wire nut. I most use them with items that have a stranded wire. I do NOT like mixing stranded with solid without using a Wago unlike all solid wire. KASA comes with 2 or 4 stranded wires depending on if a dimmer or switch and in the dimmer location all but ground and neutral were too short and ground and neutral on the were stranded. I had to use inline out the load, line was long enough. I also put electric tape over each to avoid accidental disengagement and twist each set. I have found since a Wago spreads wire more and in a line that rotating the wire around each other in a bundle is easier and more reliable than using linesman pliers. I have shot videos about it I will eventually post.
I have switched to using the inline Wago for line or load and leave the ground and neutral as bundles.
great video series, mate!
Thanks! I have never seen the ‘straight thru’ kind of Wagos. I had hoped they were available somewhere!
You are welcome! Glad you found it useful! Thanks for the feedback!
Available on Amazon
Amazon
6:27 this tip alone was worth the upvote. Thank you!
You are very welcome. Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback Cullen!
I've come across this issue many times, frustrating for sure.
My only question is how easily can those connectors come un latched?
Shoving the wires back into the box I just wonder if they can be opened and not seen.
Way too often. They do take a pretty good amount of force to open them but yes, it is possible. I always try to be careful when pushing my wires back into the box when using them. I have seen when pushing them in, if one is not paying attention and pushing the wires in with some decent force, the latch catching on another wire. Thank you for the question!
@@HowToHomeDIY Some put electrical tape around the levers for that reason.
What about soldering could you soldering them would that be acceptable? Because I feel like this is a much better connection than any other connection like this. Does anybody know about this?
Good video and good info. I recently had to add a plug and extend a light switch connection. Though I knew how to,do it, I wasn’t up to speed on modern devices and code and your videos were a great help.
Really glad to hear they were able to help you out! Thanks a lot for the feedback Dave!
I get changed every few years...
I have found a few Wago’s fail on me were the wire was not secure and could be pulled out easily and potential to arc.
A lot of older homes tend to have short wires and people have to be aware that there are very specific code requirements on box fill as well.
So very simple, why would anyone not use the Wagos? Easy, Code and one keeps the length!! ACE!
Bob
England
Thanks a lot for the feedback Bob!
What if you have older metal mud in boxes that are smaller than today's standard sizes. I have an older house were the metal boxes are almost 3/4 in shallower than a plastic one. Most of them are Appleton boxes that are around 100 years old cause that is when the house was first wired.
rip it out and replace with the old construction style blue box u see in this video. They sell them in various depths and widths pending on how many gang the existing box is. However if your depth is shallow which can be they also sell ones that arent as deep . They are very easy to install..
@@culbyj3665 They can be a real PITA to rip out without trashing the plaster wall. An old work box is a good solution, but I'd go to a lot of trouble to avoid having to remove an old metal box that's mudded in.
@@incognitotorpedo42 it's not that hard. Even with a small saw. Bi metal Lennox construction blade.
@@incognitotorpedo42 u don't even need a power tool.
Thank you! Previous owners cut the wires too short, been looking for an option that didn’t require demoing the drywall. 😎
I've found with levernuts that you can stab solid wire in without lifting the lever. Stranded wire you need to lift the lever first. I'm rigging my home with a bunch of smart switches and the WAGOs make the job so easy.
Adding a jumper wire to extend short wires? That is SHOCKING!! NO One has ever thought of that before, thanks for the info! You’re a genius!
What’s hilarious to me is you have written negative and sarcastic comments like this on at least two of my videos now, yet you’re still here. Amazing! 😂
@@HowToHomeDIY What can I say, I like good comedy and you make me laugh with your pretend drama and your attitude that only you know the right and wrong way to do things.
Never said I was the only one. But for many they didn’t know about these connectors or options. See, I don’t make my videos with the know it alls in mind like yourself but for the majority of people that don’t know and could use help. But you keep on laughing and commenting away! It only gives others a laugh at the pettiness and helps the video reach more people. So thanks!!
I had a situation just last week. Beach houses sometimes have grooved outside paneling on the outside. I had 4 sections that had rotted and had to be replaced. I took down the non working fixture and saw that the wire had rotted right where it cam out of a 2X4. The cause of the problem was the installation of the fixture. Someone had hung it over a groove. Water ran down the groove and into the fixture. I had told the guy replacing the paneling to pull the wire back from the 2X4 so I could move the fixture after the paneling was replaced. He didn't. I'm 5 hours away and can't supervise the people who work on my house.
I drilled a hole 8 inches down from the old hole and pulled the wire back. Put in a new box after pulling a piece of cable toward the unneeded hole where the wire had come out before. The carpenter had cut a new hole where the fixture had been on the old paneling. I spliced the cables together and put a water proof cover over the splice box and caulked it to seal it. I installed the fixture over the old hole location he'd drilled. I filled the groove in the paneling with caulk so water couldn't run behind the fixture and put a bead over the top of the fixture. I put 2 coats of paint over the splice cover and it's practically invisible.
I've owned this house for 22 years and it's been completely renovated. Most of my repair work years ago was related to poor workmanship. Today I am still redoing bad workmanship on recently down work. It is very difficult to find good workman here on the NC coast. I'm fortunate that I'm handy. Most of my experience comes from my time as a Navy Seabee working in a base public works department for four years.
I once saw a test of different types of devices to connect household wires together. One thing that stayed with me was that the WAGO connector had a small but yet significant voltage drop across it. To me this means that the WAGO connector doesn't have enough surface of connection to the wires. I wouldn't trust a WAGO connector to carry a full current load on a wire with out there being at least some heating of the connector. I like the twist on connectors but I also think that the best possible connection would be to twist the wires together and solder them and cover it with heat shrink. Maybe 2 layers of heat shrink material. It would definitely take up the least amount of space!
@@jash21222 : In one way of thinking of it, yes, everything has a resistance to it, even the wire itself. However, if the device holding two pieces of wire together produces more resistance than the same length of wire would (basically zero inches and thus 0 ohms) then the device is providing an extra resistance in the electrical path. In the video I watched the wire nuts had the least resistance. Basically any connector/connection that has less surface contact than the equivalence of the volume of the wire's surface will provide a resistance and lower the wire's ability to carry current. And low but not zero resistance with a high current draw creates a heater and thus creates a potential hazard. The absolute best connection possible, though very impractical when doing house wiring, would be to solder the wires together. An absolute zero resistance or drop of voltage.
I would never use Wago connectors, especially in a circuit where a high current draw would be expected. I don't think Wago connectors provide any better of a connection than the infamous "stabbing" connectors in cheep outlets often use in mobile home construction and that are often responsible for fires.
I"ve used this "style" of connector and I love them! I'm not sure why the traditional nuts are still being used (obviously cost?). The only reason I use wire nuts is because I have a ton. Once those are gone I'm not going back.
I was a Electrician and we used Twister Wire Nuts. The tan Twister like you showed can be twisted on 2 straight wires and then use your 5/16 nut driver over the back of the wire nut. Try one like this and then take off the wire nut to see the results. It will look just like you twisted the wire first. By the way, I would have straighten the existing wires with my linesman pliers and then installed tan Twister wire nuts on each. Then I would have selected a good device. We used spec grade back wired receptacles, where the screw has a plate that tightens down on a straight wire. Like Lowes Item # 24356.
I never (absolutely never) pre-twist wire pairs when using an appropriate wire nut. Only when there are 3 or more conductors. IMO, it all works much better that way and it's what the nuts are designed for.
Wow, you did an amazing job!
I qam looking forward to your next video!
Well done!
Really glad to hear you liked it so much! Thanks a lot for the feedback Robert!
You can also end up with short wires from damaged ends getting trimmed or broken off too. Copper can only take so many bends before work-hardening and becoming brittle. Aluminum wiring is even worse.
You are right about that! Thanks for the input!
Thanks! Your videos have taught me so much!
Quick tip... Use needle nose pliers to hold the short wires as you install your inline splice. Some of us are thick and that leads to fat fingers ;-)
Good tip! Thanks James.
Hemo stats or the wire stripers he was using.
I'm 350 pounds and have lean hands. No figure.
I find 12 gauge a lot more difficult to bend than 14.
Nice, didn't know they had inline connectors too. The house i bought has a bit of DIY wiring the inspector didn't catch. Front garage sconces have romex going into loft but not on a circuit, at least they left like 20ft for each one. Couple outdoor light fixtures not using junction boxes. I have a switch that, i assume goes to an outside fixture above the rear garage door. The romex is very short and rigid so pigtails may help. I did replace all my T8 flourescent fixtures with LED using wago - so much easier.
Edited fir stupid autocomplete errors.
It is their newest model.
I've always hated figuring out how to shove that 6" of 3 wires back into the box. I always feel like it's going to cause shorts.
Also it seems that, at least in my house, when I buy a new switch or outlet it's got a larger body than the old switch I'm replacing. Especially, those that have a USB port integrated, or have dimming, or multifunctional capability. I feel that outlet boxes need to be as deep as the cavity any more.
Yeah I think it is going to become more and more of an issue as more people start buying smart switches and receptacles for their homes. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
Yeah I always buy the BIGGEST boxes I can find , usually 22cuin. Hell, I often use a 2 gang for something needing several wires but only one device.
@@tightwad
Nice to hear. I bought a brand new house in 96 and damned if boxes weren't the smallest and most were lucky to have 5in of wire extending out past the wall. I know spec houses have to be built cheap .... but damn I'd sure rather have a house built by a professional and have all the intelligent design things highlighted that explained the higher cost.
Not sure I'd like seeing the blank cover plates in the walls but ... having the extra space sure would be liberating. :)
@@HowToHomeDIY
I think, IMO, that the industry needs to go the way of industrial automation using PLC's or that type of controllers.
Instead of multiple points of failures, that all controls are brought to a single location, and switches are wired with low voltage and thus allowing to control outlets via relays from central location.
Your video preview pic was a bit misleading/confusing as it seemed to convey the wago was dangerous as it had a slash through it. Loved the video tho - informative,clear and explained a few things I didnt know about the code
0:21 it’s a surprise when jobs aren’t like this lol I always end up fixing other people’s mistakes or coverups. But I show up and I don’t steal so I get more work than I can handle. wish I could find a couple helpers who are the same
Tell me about it. Seems like this has become WAY too much of a norm to uncover. Glad to hear you are busy!
And your helpers will be off on their own undercutting your prices, just as soon as they learn enough to earn beer momey. I tried for 30 years..................
Wago’s are very useful really enjoy your content 👍👍👍
You don't have to cut off the hooks unless physically damaged. A good pair of linesman pliers will straighten out the wire enough for twisting.
They can straighten them out but when copper gets bent back and forth it becomes weak. So I just prefer to start with fresh copper and know that I am not going to have any issues with it later. Thanks for the input!
@@HowToHomeDIY As long as you got the length I agree.
I have had many inspections over the years for electrical work. Never once did an inspector pull outlets out of the box to check length. The do check that wire is fastened close enough to the boxes. I like long wires but working on older homes rarely are they that long. Most come out of boxes 2" or less. Only in really short situations do you actually have to add wires. It isn't actually an unsafe issue, it is an issue of working on it in the future. Also some times adding additional wires into a box becomes a code issue. Over crowding a box can be more unsafe and more of a code issue than short wires. Most areas here in Pennsylvania, do not require that you update to modern code unless you are completely re-wiring an electrical system.
Is it really necessary to cut the bent ends off the wires in the box? Couldn't you just straighten them out with the pliers? It seems like it'd give a little more room to work if you're using wire nuts.
It would give more room but here is the concern. The copper had already been bent pretty sharply in places. When you bend copper one way and then you bend it back the other direction, it weakens it quite a lot. So while it MIGHT be ok to just straighten it out, it may also snap off at some point and provide a possible fire hazard later. I just always try to show what is safest. Does that make sense? I hope I was able to answer your question.
@@HowToHomeDIY Yes, that makes good sense. Thank you!
@@HowToHomeDIY Most wires inside a j box do not get the anmout of bending you refer toward. Too silly to pay attention while working can cause this error to present itself.
You are working with solid wire. What about stranded wiring. Will the "221" work with that type of wiring?
It would be grand if Wago made a 6 port device that had 3 separate connections to make all of them in one device.
so no different than 3 double ended singles....................................
I like the Wagos but I also like the Ideal push on connectors especially in this situation. That have a smaller footprint and are great for pigtail applications with minimal clutter.
Here in Germany, Wago 2273 are way more common in junction boxes, and if i remember correctly they are in every way better than wire nuts. Less resistance, easier and faster, smaller, easier to reuse, and you can just add a wire to an existing connection or swap the Wago for a bigger one in less than 30 seconds. They are only good for up to 2,5mm2 (12AWG), but for up to 6mm2 (10AWG) there are versions of the Wago 773.
there is no way a wago has less resistance than a properly applied wire nut.
@@ronblack7870 You are somewhat right, a perfectly applied wire nut usually has a little over half the resistance of a Wago 2273, but as the wire nut itself doesn’t conduct electricity, there is no way to guarantee that low resistance while wagos just need somewhere between 10 to 15mm bare conductor pushed in as far as possible (officially 11mm but in my experience 10-15 still works just fine), which is undeniably easier and more repeatable than applying wire nuts perfectly every single time.
Some other benefits I was just reminded of are:
- direct connection between solid (Wago 2273) or solid and stranded (Wago 221) conductors *made from Copper, Aluminium and Steel* possible
- possible to remove any single wire without even touching the others, which is a unique feature not found on any other common connectors made for 3 or more wires.
- easy to check the connection of the individual conductors, basically impossible with wire nuts
I have seen this a few times. Glad you shared the correction.
Great tips, but it assumes the box fill allows the added space the wire nuts (or Wagos) and wire will take up. I've run into situations where the box is already at capacity and you can't fit the extensions... you have to then cut out the old box and place a larger capacity box in its place.
Box fill does not include connectors or added wire such as pigtails in their calculations. So from a code standpoint it is my understanding it doesn’t make a difference. If there is not room for them then I would guess the box is already overfilled or a device like a GFCI or smart switch are going in it which take up a ton of room but still only count as 2 in box full calculations. Like you said, sometimes the box needs to be replaced with a deeper one. Is this your understanding as well?
A girl has to do what a girl has to do. If you have a box at or above capacity you have to redo the mess even if it means to open more of the wall then you want to. Document it! Unless you did the first install this will help you.
You cannot overload the circuit by cramming too much in the WAGO box .
Huh?
In my 1930's house, circuits wiring for the entire house was routed through one 4x4 metal box. Packed tight. It was serviced by 2 glass plug-type fuses. But then there were far, far fewer electrical applications. Shows how much different it now. I unraveled it and re-routed a number of circuits, all in EMT.
Great video. Love this channel!
Really glad to hear you refining value in the channel. I really appreciate the feedback! Thank you!
Hacks don't realize that it's much easier to fold in the wires when they are long. So they're notorious for cutting them off short!
Yes, much easier!
I have AL wiring in my house and these WAGOS work great for it! I used some OXGARD (instead of the Wago brand) poured 3/4 into the port, and put my 10 AWG and 12 AWG AL wires precoated in AntiOX into these and they are working great 3+ years.
I like to wrap the WAGO levers and use the electrical tape with the correct coloring code (Black = hot, etc) to correspond to each wire. (I also try to wrap the wires inside the wagos to hold them together in the splicer) I've accidentally flipped the levers while installing these in the box, I think it's prudent to tape the levers, even though WAGO doesn't recommend it.
People should consider using WAGO for AL Wire. I would recommend using freshly cut, unscratched and clean AL wire that has been pre-coated in antiox. (People should use the antiox that WAGO recommends. I didn't buy it because its stupidly expensive for some reason.)
I recently inspected to look for any signs of bulging/expansion, and oxidation and there was none. These splicers should be inspected every 5 years for oxidation, expansion, etc. Too much expansion could release the levers and possibly make a lose connection - which is why I like to tape my wires together as they go into the splicer.
Devices that use continous high current have bulged on me using the ALUMICONN lug splice connectors, and I've had ALUMICONN lugs with no anti ox paste in them, which is why it's important to pre-inspect these to make sure they have sufficient antiox in them, and to check for tight connections before installing. Noalox works great if you need to top off on fresh antiox in these.
Might need a green wire nut for the ground wire.
I'd never seen these before, ordered some to try out. thanks for the great video.
I am really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback Roy!
We don’t staple the wire in he wall. Stapling adds no values and makes it impossible to retire a house at a later date
A non licenced person has fool tips.
I have seen both done to my house. I use staples in the attic but not in walls.
LOVE those connectors a whole lot better than wire nuts!
Now you just have to find another way of connecting the outlet... Maybe something without screws and without exposed conductors. America really should be more open to inventions we made in europe 30 years or so ago. You can pull out an any outlet here without shocking instantly yourself, even the ones with screws. Code can be changed...
If you are going to do this, I suggest that your pigtails and wirenuts be long enough to be pushed all the way to the back of the box and then just the new wires come out of the box 6 inches.
This keeps the wirenuts from coming lose when folding the wire into the box after attaching the outlet.
It is impossible to push the wirenuts to the back of the box with the wires cut as short as you said and still be able to attach the outlet.
I always make 10-inch lengths of wire out of my scrap wire just for this reason.
The Wagos are a great idea but still unproven over time under high loads such as space heaters.
Even the Wagos should be pushed to the back of the box before attaching a strapped device (outlet).
The wire coming out of the box should be prefolded like a "W" so that it will compress into the box easily when mounting the device to the wall.
I would use much longer pigtails so that the splices never need to be disturbed. They should sit in the back of the outlet box and never move if you install or remove a device from the box. One of the wiring specs we had on a job was that wire length in an outlet box was a minimum of 200cm or about 8 inches. It just makes installing receptacles and switches a lot easier to work with.
There are recommendations for what wires should sit where in the box (although most people might just jam them in there).
It is recommended that grounds go in the back (first), then neutrals, then hots. It’s to be safer.
Using the Wago's make it so you don't need any extra taking up space as if you ever need to replace the pigtail with something longer, it takes 2 seconds to replace. You can even pre-attach the pigtails to the outlet before attaching to the Wago so it is even easier.
Is the service loop/love loop against building code? Coming from the low-voltage/communication sector, it's how we roll, 'cause stuff happens.
Those butt-joint Wagos are interesting! Not sure how I feel about them in this application, though. Especially in a stuffed box, having the wires come back on themselves in a regular Wago or a wire nut may actually afford you some extra flexibility when tucking everything back in.
I'm also curious about how electrical code addresses wire length in pancake boxes, as I may have to use a couple in a reno I have coming up. Still a 6" minimum, or is it less because the box is shallower?
You do awesome and informative videos! Thank you for sharing them with us!
Anyone who didn't know to do that shouldn't be working with electricity or related components.
I have all my wire connectors in the carry boxes with clear cover I bought at harbor freight years back, all my wire tools in a carry bag to make life easy , Just a DIY guy!!!! wired my BBQ shed , run wire from home to sub panel also going to have solar power to recharge my vtoman portable power units.
Yup I do the same. Home Depot had the clear covered stackable Dewalt cases on sale a while back I just bought a bunch of them. They make great cases for all of the connectors! Sounds like you are going to have quite a lot powered!
@@HowToHomeDIY I buy from lowes and home depot too. Harbor Freight member of the inside trade club, but I watch what tools to buy and not to buy. No air tools from them I buy name brand tools. but other items at HF are okay to buy
I just recently ran across a problem like this with a metal ceiling box and light. The light was always flickering, so when I opened it up to replace the fixture, I found that there was barely enough wire to meet in the middle before going out the opposite side and to the next room. The wires twisted together with only a turn and a pigtail, soldered together with a torch (I could see where the burns were) and wrapped with tape, no wirenut. I was honestly amazed it never caused a fire. After stripping and cleaning up the wire, there was hardly enough left to get into the box. I ended up having to run new wire from both directions and finding a similar mess in the rooms before and after this box. I don't know how many years it was like that, but now I'm hunting for of the same. I've only been in this house for a year.
Iam in the same situation and came up with this same solution. I even have had the WAGO already. I have been pausing a bit before getting underway because a concern about the WAGO latches releasing unexpectedly while tucking away the wires.
Another thing is if say a receptacle is not a branch circuit terminal, could I connect the grounding wires as input to a WAGO and one wire out to the ground screw?
Question: do short wires pose a fire or safety risk? I recently replaced a wired smoke detector and did something stupid, which was cut off parts of the wires in the box with a stripper. Now the black wire is about 3-4″ and the white wire is about 4″. Is it ok for one wire to be shorter than the other, or do they have to be the same length? I know they are not code compliant, but I'm not noticing anything strange. I don't want it to possibly start a fire in the future though from my smoke detector of all places. Please let me know if I need to extend the wires just to be safe.
Great presentation
Thank you very much for awesome video 🙏👍
Do you guys in the US ever use the 'standard' WAGO 2273 push-ons? Those are the go-to wire connectors across the pond if there's no stranded wire involved. They're a lot cheaper than the 221's and much slimmer as well. And they come in a number of different sizes (including a 2-wire).
See also Ideal In-Sure.
I have some 6 wire ones.
They have their place but for the average DIYer it's best if they keep some 221's on hand and use those.
@@kamX-rz4uy @Nervous Breakdown Both 221s and 2273 have their place. The 221 series is great up to the 5-wire limit. The 2273 series is great up to 8 solid wires. If you have both, you'll likely find a use. If you can only afford one, 221 is the way to go.
@@kamX-rz4uy They are best when space is at a premium which why I got their 6 connectors version. Yes, I have boxes with 6 hots/lines or more.
You're great at what U do. THANKS!
Great video. I thought you were a fan of Wago, so the cover picture confused me. It shows an arrow labeled "bad". Was the misleading picture to drive more traffic?
I wouldn’t call me a fan of Wago, I think they serve a purpose and I use them in certain applications. No the bad is not intended for the Wago but the connection underneath.
This is great info. One thing I'll add that others have mentioned is that you can use crimp insulated butt connections, too. Both wagos and crimps will work to connect stranded and solid wire together, something that can be done with wirenuts but isn't always great. Using stranded 12 instead of solid can make it easier to get everything in and out of a box. Same volume, but less force required. 12 stranded THHN is readily available by the foot at box stores.
Not an electrician ^^^
@@jamescole3152 :) Because you wouldn't do it that way, or because you wouldn't give advice to a DIY person? Which wirenuts do you carry in your bag, and are they still rated for a solid/stranded mix? Because Ideal bought most of them, and they're not all rated that way anymore.
What is the difference between backstabbing electrical outlets and waco? They are both using a flexible tab to hold the wire in place?
I have to move (lower it) a wall plug and one of the wire (coming from the top) is too short, Can you tell me if i can elongate the wire with a junction without having that joint put in a jonction box ? Thank you.
Can I use this technique to relocate a receptacle a few feet away? Thx.
I been using the Wago connectors on DIY project and talk about making life alot easier. The wirernuts always takes up so much room, which mades it a B@@@@, to get multiple switches in the box.
Is it possible to do an inline twisted splice , solder it and cover it with a couple of layers of heatshrink tubing? or is that not code approved! I have soldered short ground conductors before after twisting them together, but not hot and nuetral wires.
I have used the 221 for many years. Industrial Electrical Distributors have carried them far longer than Residential Retailers. I am curious if anyone had the lever flip up while pushing the wires into the box. I always double check but have only found one in 15 years.
It has happened to me. Only once. After that I made sure it was seated where I wanted it and that everything was still in it's place. Appreciate the input Tom!
What do you do in case of aluminum wires. Those alumicom connectors are expensive and bulky.
Can you remove the box, and extend the wires from the back outside the box? Less crammed in the box
Does home depot sell Wago connectors? I don't seem to see them.