Sam shows his process for heating up a beeswax and mineral oil finish. This procedure must be focused on safety. The only problem is finding some beeswax.
Nice video Sam with lots of useful info. I can see how this could be useful as a threading lubricant. Although this mix, if used as a finish is not very durable, as a "food safe" finish it is easy to renew. Nice looking pens and great tips, thanks! Nice tribute to those who took charge, refused to be victims, and as a result saved many lives!
Thank you for this helpful video ! And, nice praise for the three young men in France saving passengers on the 15:17 to Paris train ! A movie was made about it, and Alek Skarlatos has been running for office now in 2020 and 2021.
Sam I've done this with beeswax and mineral oil. Really nice. I also added sunscreen to it and tested it on cherry. It still "sun tanned" as in darkened but no where near the speed it does without the sun block. I use Bullfrog for Kids and added two tablespoons to eight ounces of beeswax/mineral oil. My mineral oil to beeswax was about 2 fluid ounces of mineral oil and 6 fluid ounces of beeswax. My thought was to protect cherry furniture from occasional sunlight.
Sam, you are a wealth of information. Thanks for showing yet another finish to try out. I use your Shellac/mineral oil finish all the time and love it. I'll be taking a stab at this one also. Thanks again, Fred
Hi Sam , I have experimenting with several polishing compounds using beeswax and mineral oil. With One mix I added pumice and another mix I added rottenstone. I”m going to make another using Tripoli. The mix I use is 4 parts mineral oil 1part beeswax and 1 part abrasive powder. So far I like the results. I use the same process you do for heating up the mix.
I made a mixture of carnuba, bees max and mineral oil. It is ok. It probably is no better than wax out of a can in terms of finish and seems kind of hard. Kudos for giving credit to the brave men.
I am learning so much watching your videos. Thank you for going to so much effort! I do have a suggestion for you and others making your own mixtures. I learned this lesson the hard way when making herbal salves. Make sure your jars are somewhat close to the temperature of the hot mix you're pouring in them. Too much temperature difference and the glass will break, occasionally even explosively if the temperature difference is too great. Usually it will just break the sides loose from the bottom. What I do now is to warm the jars if they have cooled, and set them in a large baking pan. This way if the jar does break I dont have a huge mess to clean up and I don't lose/waste the material. For some people beeswax is hard to locate and when found is expensive.Hope this is helpful and keep up the good work!
Hi Sam, many thanks for your reply. I totally agree with you, that "Evil will exist while good men do nothing". Anyway keep entertaining and educating fellow Woodturners Warm regards Max
Hi Sam - I am a long time subscriber and watch all of your videos. Just a comment please. I communicate regularly with Annikas Kostas in Greece (His videos are also very worth watching). In conversation, I told him that I made a wax with beeswax / Olive Oil . He commented back that using olive oil was not a god choice because Olive Oil never really dries. (He is very familiar with olives and olive wood for turning on his farm on Kefalonia Island in Greece). So I accept his knowledge. So the comment you made on using mineral oil rather than olive oil rings true with me. Just a little information that I would like to pass on. Thanks for your videos - always very informative. Regards Dennis Beamish Cambridge Ontario Canada PS - What an awesome new shop you built in Montana - has to be the envy of every wood turner!!!
Dennis, I would think Olive oil would work. One caution however: Olive oil is like a vegetable oil-it might become rancid. (I don't think i is likely to happen though). But I feel it is important to use a non drying oil. I am not sure what would happen if you used, say, varnish or poly. It would eventually dry. I use my mixture mainly for wet sanding. Sam
For thinner, natural pine gum turpentine is often used. I prefer mineral oil too over vegetable oils as it won't go off, but I've heard it can somewhat compromise synthetic fabrics and stitching over time. Very cool that you've got all that beeswax to use locally. Cheers.
This is what I’m looking to do, coat my knives. Is mineral oil the best for this or have you found anything that works better? Also any idea the best ratio or consistency?
I have been looking for a beeswax Waterproofer, moisturiser, and soften for very heavy build ,leather boots,very old school.What's mineral oil,well baby oil is mineral oil.Experiment with ratio, works well.Dubbing is ok,but for boots that get lot of use,and made in 1967,you need lot of not cheap dubbing.
Omg, just loved this and u😍👌🙏 u seems to be a "real" person, and I loved to see that u think safety is important. Sry if I use wrong words or something, but hope I am excused , I'm from Sweden 😁😅🙈 Thank u for the great video 🙏
Lilly Thanks so much. I love Sweden.....Sorry to have to tell you this. But I am actually a robot. Just kidding. I am truly real. Thanks for finding my channel. Sam
Thanks, Sam. Good info. One correction of your terminology: You were not using a double boiler; you were using a water bath. A double boiler is made up of two pans. The bottom pan contains water and the top pan fits into the rim of the bottom pan. In use, the top pan is heated by the steam from the boiling water in the bottom pan. A water bath helps heat things evenly, but the bottom of what ever you're heating is still in contact with the bottom of the pan and can get much hotter than the surrounding water. That's not the case with a double boiler. Whatever you're heating will never get hotter than the water -- which can make a double boiler safer for melting wax.
Hi Sam, beeswax and mineral oil is the best food safe finish there is. Good video, however, don't forget that your videos are broadcast world wide. You might have upset a few of your UK subscribers with your introduction. It was three Americans and one Brit that stopped that lunatic. Three Americans and one Brit were given a medal by the French president. Pride in your nation is one thing but give credit where it is due, to the valour of all four. Kind regards Max
Beorn2010 Yes you are right. As I did this video shortly after the incident, there was little or no talk about the 4th person (I did make a note with his name) and I even hear now of a 5th person. I will mention this and correct it in the next video. Thanks Sam
Yes Sr. I found out bout it when a fried was having issues with his cherry console, the sun hit it in the evening and well, sun tanned the southwest corner. He applied sunscreen directly to the wood and it worked fairly well. I started adding it to my beeswax/mineral oil blend. I use Bullfrog for Kids (for sensitive skin as I have sun allergies as well as am a burn victim and this does not make have an allergic reaction to my skin). I tried it on my Hal Taylor inspired rocker made of American Cherry and it worked very well. Direct sunlight on any surface will win, but the little amount of travel the sun rays passed across my rocker did not darken the cherry.
My blend is Walnut Oil, beeswax, powdered pigment to desired color for furniture stain. Orange oil, carnuba wax and apply it over wood alcohol based wood stain. The problem with mineral oil and most veg. oils are that they are non-drying. Your mix is food surface safe but not furniture wax.
OK, please tell me why this mixture would not be used on furniture. I agree that my mixture is non-drying. (But I do not use vegetable oil as it would go bad/rancid). I don't make this blend to be a drying' mixture. So when you say it is food safe but "not for furniture" I am not sure why. One more bit of information-as a woodworker, I don't believe in applying wax or any wax blend on one of my turned pieces or on furniture I have made. It will eventually wear off. Thanks, I appreciate your comment. Sam
I thought you were joking about turning pens to recuperate after the Russian olive Sam, but clearly not! Though not directly relevant to this video, could I offer a big 'thank you' for all your past videos, especially thread chasing! My first pair of threads came out better than I could have dreamed following your video 'tutorials'. And now I shall lubricate threads with beeswax... Cheers Tom
Hi Sam, I liked the video, I have made my own wax polish prety much like yours only I use "very cheap Baby oil" with a bit of boiled linseed oil, it makes a great polish, thanks Sam, I watch quite a lot of your videos, keep up the good work, Happy new year
Sam, Nice informative video there. I use 3 oz. of melted bee's wax and top off a pint mason jar with mineral oil. Its a nice soft consistency and a good base for whatever you want to do with it. Sanding lube, food safe finish,or even a lip balm. Also just wanted to thank you for supporting the Boy Scouts, I noticed the tin you used was a Boy Scout popcorn tin...LOL. Again, Thank You for all you do. Mike
+Edward Duhamel I had a young man knew from school who was an Eagle Scout. He asked if I would speak at his ceremony. It was a nice honor. Other than that I don't know any other scouts. But he was a woodturner. Sam
Less hard? Thinned down? Doh, I think the word you were looking for Sam was "soften". I hate it when an obvious word just won't reveal itself! Lol.... Great stuff
At about 1:40 into the video I do talk about a couple of uses for bees wax. It can be mixed with mineral oil as a "wax" finish or mixed with other drying oils to be used as a finish. Are you new to turning? But this is a great question and one I should have developed a better answer for in the video. Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER yeah I've been wanting to experiment more with beeswax. I do a little bit of leather work and I was wondering about mixing beeswax with neat's foot oil maybe some other stuff to treat and protect leather. Neets food oil is made from cow shin bones. Also I'm looking for a formula to use on filson tincloth. Maybe lio balm.
Mineral oil is better than most vegetable oils when used on food contact items such as cutting boards and wooden utensils. Continual use of most vegetable oils eventually will leave a putrid smell embedded in to wood from the natural oils oxidizing and will transfer to your foods.
FM I wonder about that. I used glycerin years ago to condition veneer i cut on my bandsaw. I actually have some little bottle in my show. I was never clear about just what glycerin was made of??? Thanks Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER Alright, thanks. I'm trying to reduce the melting temperature of wax to 105°F or so. Somebody suggested mineral oil. That's why I asked
Speacking of own blends. Watching other videos some person mention something and I came with the idea...: It is posible to mix on this recipe some sort of oil or extract of lavender or citronella or something similar to repel insects. Just to protect wood in some places like animal fences or outdoor places. What do you think?
+Jorge P I think it is a brilliant notion. Mainly you could add something that would make it smell good. People are always wanting to smell a turned piece but they are only smelling whatever finish is on the piece. With your idea you could add a little fragrance. Sam
+WYOMINGWOODTURNER be very careful of adding natural oils. they can go rancid after some periods of time. this is shown very well when people treat their cutting boards with vegetable oil.
The French and the Portuguese... Se call it Banho Maria... The direct translation would be something like Mary Bath or something (ahhahahah). We use it to Cook some stuff Such as sweets and some other recepies. Regards
I always wear full protective gear when doing this kind of thing, because I dont want to be that embarrassed moron sitting in A&E ..... but it is nevertheless ironic that most people do things just as, or even more dangerous, when they are cooking. Thanks for the video btw. +1
+Glen Hendricks Well beeswax and mineral oil really don't cure. This finish does not have a hardener in it. My feeling is that for a finish to be truly a finish, it must cure or harden. I really use this more for wet sanding or Maybe' a little wax on top of something I have already applied. Sam
+WYOMINGWOODTURNER I see I have the word "finish" in the title. I think this is misleading so I am going to change it. Thanks very much for the comment. Sam
Annie Excellent question. This is a concern when you have a surface that is already finished or is finished with a particular type of finish. Mineral spirits is a solvent. It CAN degrade or wear away a finish over time. Although I think it would take many applications over a number of years. Here is another example. Some spray furniture cleaners or spray products used for dusting can actually have solvents like mineral spirits in them. I never recommend these for furniture as they will dull the finish over time. Hope this helps. Sam
As a rule I do not use wax as a finish. I have done little with Rosewood. As a fretboard it will get heavy use and contact from fingers so I feel it needs to be sealed with a drying oil of some sort. I think wax will wear away. Sam
Could you please let me know does the finish waterproofs. because I'm in the process of making wooden drinking glasses and making it to were they can be used to drink out of. Does the wooden drinking glass finish with this Beeswax and Mineral oil finish how long will it protect ? Thank you
+sasika weerasinghe Sasika, the main issue is for a finish to be a finish.....it must dry. Poly, varnish, linseed oil and many others will dry and harden and last a long time. The mineral oil/wax mixture is a quick fix for a breadboard but only last a short time, maybe 2 or 3 weeks. Plus the beeswax/mineral oil mix may impart some taste: (what are you going to drink from these)? I would go with an oil, maybe tung oil or a wipe on poly. But there are many others which you could use. Don't use shellac or lacquer!!!! Let me know what you decide. Sam
+WYOMINGWOODTURNER Thank you very much for your response. Actually I'm doing some wooden products facebook.com/artifactsdesignstore/ such as wooden plates, bowls and cups. Though I design these stuffs I don't have good knowledge about these stuff. My main issue is when the people asking the usage of it with food. Because right now I only apply wood protection sealer.That's not food grade. If ppl want drink hot or cool drink or serve some cut fruits and sandwiches on plaits. These days I'm trying to find a solution for this. It seems mineral oil is also not durable.What do you meant by wipe on poly. and is there other options?
Good video. Question please... how do you clean the raw beeswax please? I was given a bucket of honeycomb and was wondering how to clean it. I had thought of a double-boiler and a pot filled with water and the beeswax to allow the wax to release the rubbish when it melted and then float on the water. Best Wishes, Brendan.
I've not tried this myself but an old school beekeepers trick, is to wrap the dirty comb up in hessian (burlap) with something heavy (brick or rock). Chuck it in container of boiling water, preferably outside (don't know what your domestic arrangements are but she who must be obeyed, will not be amused if you try this in the kitchen)using a cut down oil drum or similar. The theory is, that weight will hold the wax and hessian below the surface, as the water boils and melts the wax, the molten wax will seep through the hessian leaving the debris behind. When the water cools the clean wax floating on top will solidify. Hope this helps, let me know. Regards Max
+Beorn2010 Thank you Max, I hadn't heard of this before. Thanks for the advice not to cut the drum in half and boil things up in the kitchen because that's exactly the sort of thing I would do and then wonder what the whole fuss was about. So, you've saved my wax and my marriage. Good start to your day (and mine). Best Wishes, Brendan.
+WYOMINGWOODTURNER To the first comment on this thread. I have never had a need to filter or clean the wax in some way. I wonder if my friend does this with his wax???? Not sure but it seems ready to use. Sam
WYOMINGWOODTURNER Beeswax raw is separated from propolis and impurities residues. The wax you used is already clean. It exists on the market a wax bleached by UV rays, is colorless and more expensive. www.antichitabelsito.it/cera_api_sbiancata.htm
I am sure you can make up your own recipe. But what I am trying to achieve and make is an item without a dryer in it. Boiled Linseed oil has a dryer in it. Sam
Trewq I think it possibly could protect metal from rust but would ear off and may need to be re applied. I think many turning or woodworking will simply not rust-mostly cause the normally get wet. If a tool is prone to rust it probably will rust no matter what you do to it. Sam
yeah, boiled contains heavy metals and other polymerising agents, its bad juju! also, if you have alot of vegan/vegetarian/organic wankers where you sell, call it "extra virgin flaxseed oil" same stuff, but you can charge about 4 times as much
well if you get that hot stuff on those gloves you will not be in good shape. Bain-marie is translated into Mary's bath, as in the Mother of Christ. it is not a double boiler as they go to 212 degrees and the Bain-marie is at 140 degrees. FYI
Why any chemicals at all. I use bees wax and Vaseline. As waterproofer, on my skin for moisturizer, on boot laces to make them Last longer., fire starter
Aren’t Vaseline and mineral oil both petroleum based products? Like both made of the same stuff Tony? I use Vaseline for fires too. Works super fast with cotton balls.
Hi Sam! Great video, thank you for sharing! I actually use a mixture of beeswax and mineral oil that also has tripoli powder, so it is a great finishing for the sanding process before I apply friction polish, I would like to share with you the video where I show the formula: th-cam.com/video/JIiQJVLLbvk/w-d-xo.html I hope you enjoy it! Cheers! Daniel
I find this by accident because I was looking for mineral oil and I appreciate your video is very interesting butt can you be so kind to let me know what is used for thank you?
Martha Ponce Hi Martha! Beeswax and Mineral Oil are both food safe, so the mixture is a great finish for wooden elements (bowls, spoons, chopping boards, etc) that will be in touch with food. The paste that I show in the video of my previous comment to Sam's video, adds also Tripoli powder as an abrasive. Tripoli powder can be found as Food safe Diatomaceous Earth, which in turn, used in combination with the beeswax and mineral oil will also make a food safe finish for wood. Let me know if you have more questions! Cheers! Daniel
Excelente trabajo !!! El Que usted desempeña!! Son hermosas piezas de arte!! Muy agradable sorpresa poder comunicarme en Castellano!! Un Sincero agradecimiento, su explicación me encantó Por detallista. Hasta la Proxima pregunta have a good day.
this is a terrible how to video. you should be melting the wax in a metal mixing bowl above the water, not in glass jars in direct contact with the bottom of the pot.
Nice video Sam with lots of useful info. I can see how this could be useful as a threading lubricant. Although this mix, if used as a finish is not very durable, as a "food safe" finish it is easy to renew. Nice looking pens and great tips, thanks! Nice tribute to those who took charge, refused to be victims, and as a result saved many lives!
+Rick Stonewood Arts Thanks I agree, it is not the greatest finish. But I like it for cutting boards. Sam
Thank you for this helpful video ! And, nice praise for the three young men in France saving passengers on the 15:17 to Paris train ! A movie was made about it, and Alek Skarlatos has been running for office now in 2020 and 2021.
Sam I've done this with beeswax and mineral oil. Really nice. I also added sunscreen to it and tested it on cherry. It still "sun tanned" as in darkened but no where near the speed it does without the sun block. I use Bullfrog for Kids and added two tablespoons to eight ounces of beeswax/mineral oil. My mineral oil to beeswax was about 2 fluid ounces of mineral oil and 6 fluid ounces of beeswax. My thought was to protect cherry furniture from occasional sunlight.
+J Fenter Sunscreen? Really?
Sam, you are a wealth of information. Thanks for showing yet another finish to try out. I use your Shellac/mineral oil finish all the time and love it. I'll be taking a stab at this one also. Thanks again, Fred
+Fred Graber Thanks, I think it is best for cutting boards and such.
Sam
Hi Sam , I have experimenting with several polishing compounds using beeswax and mineral oil. With One mix I added pumice and another mix I added rottenstone. I”m going to make another using Tripoli. The mix I use is 4 parts mineral oil 1part beeswax and 1 part abrasive powder. So far I like the results. I use the same process you do for heating up the mix.
Thanks for that formula. I have also done the same with some Rottenstone. Very cool. Sam
I made a mixture of carnuba, bees max and mineral oil. It is ok. It probably is no better than wax out of a can in terms of finish and seems kind of hard.
Kudos for giving credit to the brave men.
+Frank B Yes, I agree. I rarely use the beeswax for a finish. But as it is free, I do find uses for it.
Sam
A very experienced cabinet maker taught me to put beeswax on screws before driving them into pilot holes in hard woods.
When I do this I use a trivet as a spacer between the actual pan and the base of the wax container. The spacer used in pressure cookers works well.
I am learning so much watching your videos. Thank you for going to so much effort! I do have a suggestion for you and others making your own mixtures. I learned this lesson the hard way when making herbal salves. Make sure your jars are somewhat close to the temperature of the hot mix you're pouring in them. Too much temperature difference and the glass will break, occasionally even explosively if the temperature difference is too great. Usually it will just break the sides loose from the bottom. What I do now is to warm the jars if they have cooled, and set them in a large baking pan. This way if the jar does break I dont have a huge mess to clean up and I don't lose/waste the material. For some people beeswax is hard to locate and when found is expensive.Hope this is helpful and keep up the good work!
+Wolfsong Alodi
Great advice on the exploding jars, I never thought about that. Thanks very much. Sam
Thanks for acknowledging these three heroes.
I love the tip about putting beeswax in a sock!!!
Hi Sam, many thanks for your reply. I totally agree with you, that "Evil will exist while good men do nothing". Anyway keep entertaining and educating fellow Woodturners
Warm regards Max
Hi Sam - I am a long time subscriber and watch all of your videos.
Just a comment please.
I communicate regularly with Annikas Kostas in Greece (His videos are also very worth watching). In conversation, I told him that I made a wax with beeswax / Olive Oil . He commented back that using olive oil was not a god choice because Olive Oil never really dries. (He is very familiar with olives and olive wood for turning on his farm on Kefalonia Island in Greece). So I accept his knowledge. So the comment you made on using mineral oil rather than olive oil rings true with me. Just a little information that I would like to pass on.
Thanks for your videos - always very informative.
Regards
Dennis Beamish Cambridge Ontario Canada
PS - What an awesome new shop you built in Montana - has to be the envy of every wood turner!!!
Dennis, I would think Olive oil would work. One caution however: Olive oil is like a vegetable oil-it might become rancid. (I don't think i is likely to happen though). But I feel it is important to use a non drying oil. I am not sure what would happen if you used, say, varnish or poly. It would eventually dry. I use my mixture mainly for wet sanding. Sam
For thinner, natural pine gum turpentine is often used. I prefer mineral oil too over vegetable oils as it won't go off, but I've heard it can somewhat compromise synthetic fabrics and stitching over time. Very cool that you've got all that beeswax to use locally. Cheers.
Thanks for the tip Sam, i know what I'l be doing this coming weekend with some large lumps of beeswax that I have :)
Take care
Mike
Thank you for this very informative video. I use this mixture for my carbon steel knives. Best regards from France.
This is what I’m looking to do, coat my knives. Is mineral oil the best for this or have you found anything that works better? Also any idea the best ratio or consistency?
Hi Sam, I really enjoy your videos & made up some Beeswax & MO this morning. Maybe a trip to your Beekeeper friend would make a good video.
Mike
I may try this to treat leather boots.
For better results than using a standard paint thinner try using artist grade pure gum turpentine. Works a treat.....
I have been looking for a beeswax Waterproofer, moisturiser, and soften for very heavy build ,leather boots,very old school.What's mineral oil,well baby oil is mineral oil.Experiment with ratio, works well.Dubbing is ok,but for boots that get lot of use,and made in 1967,you need lot of not cheap dubbing.
Beautiful instructive Video, Sam.Thanks for sharing.Tuhs I know i can mix beeswax and Mineral oil to ensure that the wax is not as strong. :-D
Omg, just loved this and u😍👌🙏 u seems to be a "real" person, and I loved to see that u think safety is important. Sry if I use wrong words or something, but hope I am excused , I'm from Sweden 😁😅🙈 Thank u for the great video 🙏
Lilly
Thanks so much. I love Sweden.....Sorry to have to tell you this. But I am actually a robot. Just kidding. I am truly real. Thanks for finding my channel.
Sam
I also add some rottenstone in the mix, it makes a great shine to my pens.
Thanks for havong courage to praise those follows
Thanks, Sam. Good info. One correction of your terminology: You were not using a double boiler; you were using a water bath. A double boiler is made up of two pans. The bottom pan contains water and the top pan fits into the rim of the bottom pan. In use, the top pan is heated by the steam from the boiling water in the bottom pan. A water bath helps heat things evenly, but the bottom of what ever you're heating is still in contact with the bottom of the pan and can get much hotter than the surrounding water. That's not the case with a double boiler. Whatever you're heating will never get hotter than the water -- which can make a double boiler safer for melting wax.
+David Walser Did a little research. You are correct. I did not know there was a difference. Sam
I was about to point that out but decided to check comments first. LOL.
Long live the Giant’s 🤜🏻
Hi Sam, beeswax and mineral oil is the best food safe finish there is. Good video, however, don't forget that your videos are broadcast world wide. You might have upset a few of your UK subscribers with your introduction. It was three Americans and one Brit that stopped that lunatic. Three Americans and one Brit were given a medal by the French president. Pride in your nation is one thing but give credit where it is due, to the valour of all four.
Kind regards Max
Beorn2010 beeswax and linseed oil, RAW linseed, NOT BOILED!
beeswax and linseed (linwax) is a perfectly food safe finish, and i use it all the time!
😊
Beorn2010 Yes you are right. As I did this video shortly after the incident, there was little or no talk about the 4th person (I did make a note with his name) and I even hear now of a 5th person. I will mention this and correct it in the next video. Thanks Sam
Yes Sr. I found out bout it when a fried was having issues with his cherry console, the sun hit it in the evening and well, sun tanned the southwest corner. He applied sunscreen directly to the wood and it worked fairly well. I started adding it to my beeswax/mineral oil blend. I use Bullfrog for Kids (for sensitive skin as I have sun allergies as well as am a burn victim and this does not make have an allergic reaction to my skin). I tried it on my Hal Taylor inspired rocker made of American Cherry and it worked very well. Direct sunlight on any surface will win, but the little amount of travel the sun rays passed across my rocker did not darken the cherry.
Thank you for sharing..
Great video very educational and inspiring learned a lot thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks so much Sam.
My blend is Walnut Oil, beeswax, powdered pigment to desired color for furniture stain. Orange oil, carnuba wax and apply it over wood alcohol based wood stain. The problem with mineral oil and most veg. oils are that they are non-drying. Your mix is food surface safe but not furniture wax.
OK, please tell me why this mixture would not be used on furniture. I agree that my mixture is non-drying. (But I do not use vegetable oil as it would go bad/rancid). I don't make this blend to be a drying' mixture. So when you say it is food safe but "not for furniture" I am not sure why. One more bit of information-as a woodworker, I don't believe in applying wax or any wax blend on one of my turned pieces or on furniture I have made. It will eventually wear off. Thanks, I appreciate your comment. Sam
Interesting topic Sam.....Thank you !!
Chris.
I thought you were joking about turning pens to recuperate after the Russian olive Sam, but clearly not! Though not directly relevant to this video, could I offer a big 'thank you' for all your past videos, especially thread chasing! My first pair of threads came out better than I could have dreamed following your video 'tutorials'. And now I shall lubricate threads with beeswax...
Cheers
Tom
Hi Sam, I liked the video, I have made my own wax polish prety much like yours only I use "very cheap Baby oil" with a bit of boiled linseed oil, it makes a great polish, thanks Sam, I watch quite a lot of your videos, keep up the good work, Happy new year
ps.... I use a none-stick metal pan inside the pan full of water like the french do lol
Baby Oil, brilliant.
I will try that.
Sam
I use the Unscented & it is very cheap, I hope you like it, let me know what you think of it, Gordon, Yorkshire England
Sam,
Nice informative video there. I use 3 oz. of melted bee's wax and top off a pint mason jar with mineral oil. Its a nice soft consistency and a good base for whatever you want to do with it. Sanding lube, food safe finish,or even a lip balm. Also just wanted to thank you for supporting the Boy Scouts, I noticed the tin you used was a Boy Scout popcorn tin...LOL.
Again, Thank You for all you do.
Mike
+Edward Duhamel I had a young man knew from school who was an Eagle Scout. He asked if I would speak at his ceremony. It was a nice honor. Other than that I don't know any other scouts. But he was a woodturner.
Sam
Less hard? Thinned down? Doh, I think the word you were looking for Sam was "soften". I hate it when an obvious word just won't reveal itself! Lol.... Great stuff
Awesome Sam
Good video. What can this be used for?
At about 1:40 into the video I do talk about a couple of uses for bees wax. It can be mixed with mineral oil as a "wax" finish or mixed with other drying oils to be used as a finish. Are you new to turning? But this is a great question and one I should have developed a better answer for in the video. Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER yeah I've been wanting to experiment more with beeswax. I do a little bit of leather work and I was wondering about mixing beeswax with neat's foot oil maybe some other stuff to treat and protect leather. Neets food oil is made from cow shin bones. Also I'm looking for a formula to use on filson tincloth. Maybe lio balm.
Could use that mixture for rubbing on cutting boards.
Yep, good idea. Sam
I've never used mineral oil i use linseed oil for wood working stuff or food oils for skin stuff
Great opening line Sam...I'm a good man who wants to know what happened to building 7 on 911. thanks maan
Mineral oil is better than most vegetable oils when used on food contact items such as cutting boards and wooden utensils. Continual use of most vegetable oils eventually will leave a putrid smell embedded in to wood from the natural oils oxidizing and will transfer to your foods.
Would glicerine (líquid) would work as well?
FM I wonder about that. I used glycerin years ago to condition veneer i cut on my bandsaw. I actually have some little bottle in my show. I was never clear about just what glycerin was made of??? Thanks Sam
Any idea about the reduction in melting point ?
I really don’t have any idea. I might’ve used a meat thermometer to check the temperature.
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER Alright, thanks. I'm trying to reduce the melting temperature of wax to 105°F or so. Somebody suggested mineral oil. That's why I asked
Can i mix wax with cooking oil to get same result
Cooking oils like vegetable oil or olive oil might go rancid. Mineral oil will not. Sam
Speacking of own blends. Watching other videos some person mention something and I came with the idea...:
It is posible to mix on this recipe some sort of oil or extract of lavender or citronella or something similar to repel insects.
Just to protect wood in some places like animal fences or outdoor places.
What do you think?
+Jorge P I think it is a brilliant notion. Mainly you could add something that would make it smell good. People are always wanting to smell a turned piece but they are only smelling whatever finish is on the piece. With your idea you could add a little fragrance. Sam
+WYOMINGWOODTURNER be very careful of adding natural oils. they can go rancid after some periods of time. this is shown very well when people treat their cutting boards with vegetable oil.
+adam anthoni I did not know this, thanks for the advice...
@@mortarsquad12 That's why food grade mineral oil is advised.
The French and the Portuguese... Se call it Banho Maria... The direct translation would be something like Mary Bath or something (ahhahahah). We use it to Cook some stuff Such as sweets and some other recepies. Regards
can you tell us the ingredients of aluminum polish compound and the comparison between the ingredients, thank you
What aluminum polish?
I always wear full protective gear when doing this kind of thing, because I dont want to be that embarrassed moron sitting in A&E ..... but it is nevertheless ironic that most people do things just as, or even more dangerous, when they are cooking.
Thanks for the video btw. +1
thanks for giving the shout out for the americans!
I understand this is a food safe finish. MY question IS: How long does it take to cure??
+Glen Hendricks
Well beeswax and mineral oil really don't cure. This finish does not have a hardener in it. My feeling is that for a finish to be truly a finish, it must cure or harden. I really use this more for wet sanding or Maybe' a little wax on top of something I have already applied. Sam
+WYOMINGWOODTURNER I see I have the word "finish" in the title. I think this is misleading so I am going to change it. Thanks very much for the comment. Sam
Is paint thinner or mineral spirits mixed with wax bad for prefinished kitchen cabinets?
Annie
Excellent question. This is a concern when you have a surface that is already finished or is finished with a particular type of finish. Mineral spirits is a solvent. It CAN degrade or wear away a finish over time. Although I think it would take many applications over a number of years. Here is another example. Some spray furniture cleaners or spray products used for dusting can actually have solvents like mineral spirits in them. I never recommend these for furniture as they will dull the finish over time. Hope this helps. Sam
If I mix beeswax with mineral oil, could I achieve the consistency of say vaseline??? And it would not harden?
That is correct. It will last a long while but the mineral oil does dry out (not harden) and you can just add more mineral oil. Sam
Is it safe for Rosewood? I’m thinking of applying to my guitar fretboard. Thanks
As a rule I do not use wax as a finish. I have done little with Rosewood. As a fretboard it will get heavy use and contact from fingers so I feel it needs to be sealed with a drying oil of some sort. I think wax will wear away. Sam
sam nice tip.
Could you please let me know does the finish waterproofs. because I'm in the process of making wooden drinking glasses and making it to were they can be used to drink out of. Does the wooden drinking glass finish with this Beeswax and Mineral oil finish how long will it protect ? Thank you
+sasika weerasinghe
Sasika, the main issue is for a finish to be a finish.....it must dry. Poly, varnish, linseed oil and many others will dry and harden and last a long time. The mineral oil/wax mixture is a quick fix for a breadboard but only last a short time, maybe 2 or 3 weeks. Plus the beeswax/mineral oil mix may impart some taste: (what are you going to drink from these)? I would go with an oil, maybe tung oil or a wipe on poly. But there are many others which you could use. Don't use shellac or lacquer!!!! Let me know what you decide. Sam
+WYOMINGWOODTURNER Thank you very much for your response. Actually I'm doing some wooden products facebook.com/artifactsdesignstore/ such as wooden plates, bowls and cups. Though I design these stuffs I don't have good knowledge about these stuff. My main issue is when the people asking the usage of it with food. Because right now I only apply wood protection sealer.That's not food grade. If ppl want drink hot or cool drink or serve some cut fruits and sandwiches on plaits. These days I'm trying to find a solution for this. It seems mineral oil is also not durable.What do you meant by wipe on poly. and is there other options?
Looking for a diy wax recipe that will resist bugs and mold. In hawaii 90 percent humidity year round.
Maybe you could use neem oil?
reminds me of watching Kenny Everits diy show
Good video. Question please... how do you clean the raw beeswax please? I was given a bucket of honeycomb and was wondering how to clean it. I had thought of a double-boiler and a pot filled with water and the beeswax to allow the wax to release the rubbish when it melted and then float on the water.
Best Wishes, Brendan.
I've not tried this myself but an old school beekeepers trick, is to wrap the dirty comb up in hessian (burlap) with something heavy (brick or rock). Chuck it in container of boiling water, preferably outside (don't know what your domestic arrangements are but she who must be obeyed, will not be amused if you try this in the kitchen)using a cut down oil drum or similar. The theory is, that weight will hold the wax and hessian below the surface, as the water boils and melts the wax, the molten wax will seep through the hessian leaving the debris behind. When the water cools the clean wax floating on top will solidify. Hope this helps, let me know.
Regards Max
+Beorn2010 Thank you Max, I hadn't heard of this before. Thanks for the advice not to cut the drum in half and boil things up in the kitchen because that's exactly the sort of thing I would do and then wonder what the whole fuss was about. So, you've saved my wax and my marriage. Good start to your day (and mine).
Best Wishes, Brendan.
+Beorn2010 Interesting
Sam
+WYOMINGWOODTURNER To the first comment on this thread.
I have never had a need to filter or clean the wax in some way. I wonder if my friend does this with his wax????
Not sure but it seems ready to use. Sam
WYOMINGWOODTURNER Beeswax raw is separated from propolis and impurities residues. The wax you used is already clean. It exists on the market a wax bleached by UV rays, is colorless and more expensive. www.antichitabelsito.it/cera_api_sbiancata.htm
Why don't you use a double boiler? Much easier, no contact with boiling water.
Hello could you make a wooden bowl to store you mixture
a make on microwave! rapid and sure!
What about beeswax paraffin and. Linseed oil?
I am sure you can make up your own recipe. But what I am trying to achieve and make is an item without a dryer in it. Boiled Linseed oil has a dryer in it. Sam
Will this wax protect metal tools from rust?
Trewq
I think it possibly could protect metal from rust but would ear off and may need to be re applied. I think many turning or woodworking will simply not rust-mostly cause the normally get wet. If a tool is prone to rust it probably will rust no matter what you do to it. Sam
Though it would probably need to be reapplied, it would probably last longer than just oil by itself. Just an assumption
I also like to add some linseed oil (replacing some of the mineral oil). Still experimenting with the ratios, though.
Steffen Glückselig i find 1:1 seems to work the best for linwax, hope your not using BLO!
kingswoodkid1985 That is a good thing to keep in mind. Use the Raw and it won't harden....
Thanks
kingswoodkid1985, WYOMINGWOODTURNER thanks for emphasizing using *raw* linseedoil. I'll have to change my recipe. :-(
yeah, boiled contains heavy metals and other polymerising agents, its bad juju!
also, if you have alot of vegan/vegetarian/organic wankers where you sell, call it "extra virgin flaxseed oil" same stuff, but you can charge about 4 times as much
how to make stabwood liquid sir?
Stabwood?
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER stabilizing wood liquid..
Nice video--what was I watching?
The bottom of the jar is still basically in contact with the heat.Looks like they overflowed.
Sweet Jesus! 10 minutes for a video that could be less that 2...
Yes sorry about that.....But the longer I make these videos, the more I get paid. So far this video has made $3.87
why not heat it in Microwave ?
+art kempenich I don't know how much control there is with a microwave. I think it would require to much attention.
Sam
Yes but safer then hot water , We get in enough of that with out trying.
well if you get that hot stuff on those gloves you will not be in good shape. Bain-marie is translated into Mary's bath, as in the Mother of Christ. it is not a double boiler as they go to 212 degrees and the Bain-marie is at 140 degrees. FYI
OK
Thanks
Sam
Why any chemicals at all. I use bees wax and Vaseline. As waterproofer, on my skin for moisturizer, on boot laces to make them Last longer., fire starter
Tony
I did not go back and review the video. What chemicals are you talking about? Sam
Aren’t Vaseline and mineral oil both petroleum based products? Like both made of the same stuff Tony? I use Vaseline for fires too. Works super fast with cotton balls.
I think you are right...
Sam
Vaseline is a petroleum product
How do I send a photo of my work to you??
+J Fenter Just saw this comment. You can use my e-mail address: samandcheryle@gmail.com
just send as an attachment. Sam
Hi Sam! Great video, thank you for sharing! I actually use a mixture of beeswax and mineral oil that also has tripoli powder, so it is a great finishing for the sanding process before I apply friction polish, I would like to share with you the video where I show the formula: th-cam.com/video/JIiQJVLLbvk/w-d-xo.html I hope you enjoy it! Cheers! Daniel
+Daniel Vilarino I just saw this comment. That is a good idea mixing the triple powder....Sam
I find this by accident because I was looking for mineral oil and I appreciate your video is very interesting butt can you be so kind to let me know what is used for thank you?
Martha Ponce Hi Martha! Beeswax and Mineral Oil are both food safe, so the mixture is a great finish for wooden elements (bowls, spoons, chopping boards, etc) that will be in touch with food. The paste that I show in the video of my previous comment to Sam's video, adds also Tripoli powder as an abrasive. Tripoli powder can be found as Food safe Diatomaceous Earth, which in turn, used in combination with the beeswax and mineral oil will also make a food safe finish for wood. Let me know if you have more questions! Cheers! Daniel
Excelente trabajo !!!
El Que usted desempeña!!
Son hermosas piezas de arte!!
Muy agradable sorpresa
poder comunicarme en Castellano!!
Un Sincero agradecimiento, su explicación me encantó
Por detallista.
Hasta la Proxima pregunta have a good day.
You can get Beeswax at Hobby Lobby
looks like 4 to 1 ratio
I had to really mess around with the mixture. It seemed too thick at first.
Thanks for watching Sam
this is a terrible how to video. you should be melting the wax in a metal mixing bowl above the water, not in glass jars in direct contact with the bottom of the pot.
CLEARLY YOU ARE FROM THE CITY ... JUST LIKE CANNING VEGETABLES OR MEAT NOTHING WRONG WITH THE WAY HE DONE IT