Both a woodworker and a chef of many years, and might I proffer this advice. gradually stir the cold ingredients into the hot, that is the turps and oil mixture into the hot bees wax which will prevent it curdling.
I find this method easier : Put your beeswax in a glass jar. Put the glass jar in a pot and fill water around the jar (but not so much as to make the jar float / or put a thick bolt in with the beeswax to weigh it down) Heat water and wax - take your time ! When wax is melted, lift out of water & add the remaining ingredients. This saves pouring & cleaning another vessel.
You have to be careful not to drip water into your wax. I suggest canning tongs. If you don't know them, the tongs are used to place and retrieve jars from a hot water canner. Sturdy and they extend your grip by six inches.
@@rezamovie - It's better than nothing of course, but not something I'd recommend. I'd go for a coat or two of oil or paint -- something you can apply with a brush or roller; a wax finish usually involves a lot of rubbing and I guess the surface of your backyeard panel is too rough for that sort of treatment.
I'm in the middle of restoring an 1861 rifled musket. In my research for the correct finish I happened accross the 1860s US Army Ordinance specifications for their muskets and this is exactly the recipe for that. Thanks for a clever way to mix it.
@@12tribeff Pine resin probably, if you want to make traditional turpentine. Turpentine is the ingredient that dissolves the rosin in the resin which is more of a solid on its own. Modern turpentine is inorganic as far as I know.
Hi Josh, I have been looking for a suitable finish for a piece for my dining table since May and just came across your video tonight. It's exactly what I've been searching for. I wanted a natural, less glossy finish with a beautiful smell and you've provided all of these. Will go sourcing for products tomorrow. I live around 5 hours from Sydney so may have to wait until the next farmers markets for the beeswax though. Thank you so very much!
Just made my first Jar, doing exactly what you said, worked beautifully, I am no way by any means a experience woodworker but I do like to play around in the shop and this is perfect for the little things that I do thank you so very much
Just started a muzzle loader build. Thanks for this vid and it's good info. Plan to use this finish on it after staining the wood with a propolis tincture. All from our own bees.
You the man! That propolis is damn fine stuff - as a fellow keep, I’ve used the mix for boots, gear, wood, iron etc - but that propolis is the bull horn! Excellent stuff for instrument (musical repair) etc. 👍
Just cooked up a batch of this as my first wax based finish and it's great! It was easy to apply, dried super fast (with a bit of help from a blow dryer to work it in better). I have one question though: how long does it take for the smell of the turpentine to fade away after application?
Turpentine is a "byproduct" of making Pine Tar, which is also a fantastic additive for this finish, especially on woods that will be in high moisture environments or outside. I prefer to use Pine Tar over the linseed oil, personally, because it keeps thing in the family, so to speak, and the pine tar has anti-microbial properties that help prevent mold/mildew blooms and bug infestations. It's not any more durable than the linseed oil, but it also does more to help the wood, in my estimation.
@@safecyber7996 Yep. Great stuff. Comes in cans like paint. It's been used for thousands of years and you can even make it yourself if you have some pine and can build a fire. You can also buy it from places that deal with livestock - vets, country stores, etc. They use it as an antimicrobial/bacterial wound dressing. If you have a large wood/traditional boating scene near you, those kinds of stores might also carry it. I just buy mine online. Tenda, Bickmore, and Davey's are good brand names. There's one brand with a big horseshoe on the label that you should steer clear of. They cook their stuff down to a paste like axle grease and then you have to add turpentine to it to make it more usable. But for preserving wood, there's nothing better, imo. Sailors used it to paint their ships, ropes, and sails because it has that anti-rot stuff in it that preserved their organic material while they were out on the ocean. You can even mix in powdered pigments to make paint. Iron Oxide + Pine Tar + Linseed Oil..... that's the reason we have barns that are red. The Iron Oxide and Pine Tar worked together to prevent the wood from rotting. Great stuff, and everyone should have a quart on the shelf.
I will give this a try but what I have used in the past is just beeswax And food safe mineral oil. 1 1/2 cups of oil to 70 g of beeswax. You can adjust the amount of beeswax that you want to use.
@@deemdoubleu Ha, ha, yeah, that would be a bit difficult. The class is taught by David Ray Pine. He did an article on making the stool in Fine Woodworking Magazine (issue #80). Where in the UK are you? I used to live up in Scotland.
@@WoodAndShop Lancashire, my wife is a Scot (and don't I know it haha). Thanks for the info! BTW how did you find obtaining wood over here? I find it quite difficult to get hold of nice raw materials, certainly not readily available locally. It seems like you just pick it up from the side of the road over the the USA.
@@deemdoubleu Yes, you definitely know a Scot! Where's she from in Scotland? Finding wood here is quite easy, and yes, you can pick up wood on the side of the road! I get free lumber all the time, so I feel spoiled. And yes, much harder in the UK I'm sure. But I guess it also depends on where you live: countryside vs. city.
TURPENTINE OIL 7 litres DB LINSEED OIL 5 litres TERMINATOR OIL 2 litres APPLE CIDER VINEGAR 2 litres PIDILITE EXTERIOR VARNISH 5 litres BEES WAX 2.5kg/2 litres TURPENTINE RESIN 1.6 kgs Leave it in a sealed tin can in sun for a week so that everything is blended , shake it well before every use. This makes a perfect, tried and tested polish for wood houses.Only for exterior.
I work at a retirement home, I am also a wood carver. One of our residence has been carving for years and was wanting to make one more carving on a piece of white pine, he's mentioned he uses a beeswax/turpentine mixture for his finish. So today we are going to pick up a piece of white pine, beeswax, turpentine and maybe some linseed oil. Thank you for posting this video.
How cool! Thanks for letting me know! I'd love to see photos of the carving when he's finished: woodandshop.com/submit-your-woodworking-project-workshop/
Thank you! I know you must receive a gazillion of questions from us, but I'm taking my chance: I have an oak buffet that's finished with stain and protective lacquer. What should I use as a final finish to give it a nice look (not mate) over the lacquer, bees wax, some kind of mix?
Once you have the three components mixed in the jar you may want to try placing the open jar into the hot water (no fire) to remelt the wax and then re-stir the mixture. Also, when you refer to "historical" you may want to briefly explain from where and when the process came. It adds to your credibility as a resource/authority.
Half and half? I've been turning some goblets lately and was debating on how to finish the outside. The insides I use melted pine rosin with a little beeswax melted in but it can get tacky with hand temperature.
Will gum turpentine work? I happen to have the gum form handy. I love the natural smell of pine trees. The artificial smell doesn't satisfy lol! Ie pine household cleaners.
Thank you so much! I'm actually planning to use it on a rune set that I'm crafting, just small wood pieces with rune carvings to scry on, and I was looking for some organic varnish for that ^^
@@NobleSteed00 lol, yes, they are. If you ever took chemistry classes, the tubular containers you poured chemicals into, that had ml or cl markings on the side, are called "graduated cylinders." They are so called because the cylinder has "graduation" marks printed on the side of glass container. FWIW
Josh, I really appreciate the preservation of historical woodworking methods, especially in today's age of instant...everything! While I live in Alaska now (totem poles are some examples of traditional Tlingit and Haida wood working), my family is from North Carolina and probably came over on the Mayflower (Thomas Rogers signed the Compact). I own 30' fiberglass sailboat but she has some nice teak both inside and out and people are always amazed at how beautiful my teak is when it's done w/ teak oil and a good quality clear varnish. To get the oil to soak in, I allow pieces to soak in the oil overnight and then do 5-6 coats of varnish that dry for 24-48 hours. It can take a week to finish one piece! I plan on retiring in a couple of years and moving back to the Carolina's and exploring some of the traditional and historical aspects of the lives of these early pioneers. Thanks for contributing to the continuation of the knowledge of traditional woodworking techniques.
Josh, I've been here for almost 28 years and since I boat in SE Alaska, I get to see a lot of timber! And whales. It is magical and I love being able to get out and get into wildlife. Hope to visit Colonial Williamsburg after retirement.
Thank you. I'm looking to experiment for the best things (for various people's preferences or various options to offer) when it comes to the insides and outside of wooden flutes, such as Native American-style flutes. I need to keep the mouthpiece 100% food-safe, but I don't see why I can't use some of my copious quantities of regular boiled linseed oil on the rest of the instrument. Beeswax and oil is a major tradition with these, but I don't mind the thought of incorporating an oil that will eventually tend to polymerize even if it's over time. I don't have turpentine but I have "Turpentene" which I guess is too much of an unknown. A turpentine mimic with petroleum. I'm trying to use some things I already have, which includes beeswax, boiled linseed oil, safflower oil, olive oil (I hear that spoils in wood, whereas it surely doesn't on my veg-tanned leather, I suppose because of the tanning preservatives), 90% mineral oil with 10% lemon oil, coconut oil, and tea tree herbal anti-fungal oil mix that's supposedly ok to chew your nails with. I will definitely use some of that to fight mildew. And I do not mind making two batches (one for mouthpiece and one for the rest). Thanks for your videos
Great info, thanks! If I wanted to add a mica or pigment powder to color this paste and use it as a decorative furniture wax when I want it to lay deep into carved surfaces, would the ingredients be the same? How long does this mixture take to cure and not feel "greasy"? Thank you again.
I really like the wood polish. Just one question. Why do you use yellow bees wax as opposed to white bees wax? Yellow bees wax darkens wood such as Marri.
Have you tried that? I'm somewhat surprised. As an FYI, Yellow beeswax is older wax from the hive which becomes dark due to exposure to honey and other things. The white beeswax is either 1) cappings that were removed in order to harvest the honey, or 2) yellow wax that has been treated chemically (bleached). The bleached (sometimes mistakenly referred to as "purified") wax is inferior especially if natural products are desired for your project. Just something to be aware. Cheers.
Thanks for showing that, Joshua. Some of my finishing references indicate that in the 17th-18th centuries boiled linseed oil was first applied and allowed to cure, referred to as 'priming' the wood. Then the beeswax polish was applied. Have you heard of this?
put all the ingredients into the double boiler and heat them up together, stirring regularly. Eliminates the suspended wax particles and gives you a uniform paste with the consistency of shoe polish. Use more BLO and turp to give a more vaseline consistency.
This is a great finish but Joshua is showing the messy method. The easiest way to do it is add all the ingredients into a jar as described BUT use a crockpot with water in it. Measure the beeswax by weight. 3 OZ of beeswax coincidentally weighs 3 OZ, how convenient. Set the crockpot on medium and let the wax melt. Stir as required. Done. No mess. Btw, any thrift shop will have a crockpot for a few bucks.
just use a crockpot, you don't need water, even better heat the separate ingredients in crockpots and they blend much better, I have been making something similar for 35 years.
If you heat up the linseed oil enough to disolve the wachs in it, then let it cool while stirring, you end up with a similar creamy paste, that you can rub on your furniture, without the turpentine fumes. Especially good for bowls and other stuff where you don't want turpentine left over in your food. You don't need boiled linseed oil, you can just buy regular old linseed oil. Takes longer to cure and harden, but it's more natural and food save. Additionally it penetrates deeper into the wood because it flows better than the boiled linseed oil.
Just use a hardening oil (linseed, walnut, tung) that will harden before they go rancid - although oxidation is kind of going rancid the big difference is that the fully hardened oil is foodsafe and doesn’t have a horrible smell. Stay away from olive oil. It basically never hardens and will go rancid.
Awesome video, Joshua, I really enjoyed it. One thing though: you might want to use an electric heater around flammable materials. Fire, solvents and lots of dry wood aren't the safest combination.
Flammable turpentine next to an open flame and using your wife's bowl - You are a brave man!!!
Linseed oil is very flammable as well, keep in mind he is using a makeshift double boiler as to not directly heat the mixture.
Don't let fear guide your life
😂
Did anybody die? Lol
Both a woodworker and a chef of many years, and might I proffer this advice. gradually stir the cold ingredients into the hot, that is the turps and oil mixture into the hot bees wax which will prevent it curdling.
I find this method easier :
Put your beeswax in a glass jar.
Put the glass jar in a pot and fill water around the jar (but not so much as to make the jar float / or put a thick bolt in with the beeswax to weigh it down)
Heat water and wax - take your time !
When wax is melted, lift out of water & add the remaining ingredients.
This saves pouring & cleaning another vessel.
Thanks for the tip. Hot wax can make quite a mess to clean up.
You have to be careful not to drip water into your wax. I suggest canning tongs. If you don't know them, the tongs are used to place and retrieve jars from a hot water canner. Sturdy and they extend your grip by six inches.
Is the mixture good for protecting wooden panel in my backyard ?
@@rezamovie - It's better than nothing of course, but not something I'd recommend. I'd go for a coat or two of oil or paint -- something you can apply with a brush or roller; a wax finish usually involves a lot of rubbing and I guess the surface of your backyeard panel is too rough for that sort of treatment.
I do the same, much better method 👍
I'm in the middle of restoring an 1861 rifled musket. In my research for the correct finish I happened accross the 1860s US Army Ordinance specifications for their muskets and this is exactly the recipe for that. Thanks for a clever way to mix it.
That's really cool to hear...thanks!
I am a beekeeper and just made my own turpentine through distillation over a campfire so this is perfect! Thanks for sharing.
what did you distil?
@@12tribeff Pine resin probably, if you want to make traditional turpentine. Turpentine is the ingredient that dissolves the rosin in the resin which is more of a solid on its own. Modern turpentine is inorganic as far as I know.
Same recipe for blacksmith finish too. Been using it for years. Applied to warm iron, it makes a good durable finish for my outdoor items.
Thanks for reminding us of this traditional furniture polish. Thanks to you, i’m gonna have to find an excuse to use it.
great choice of materials for wood working
I just made this and I couldn’t be more proud.
Amazing! Thanks for sharing!
Hi Josh, I have been looking for a suitable finish for a piece for my dining table since May and just came across your video tonight. It's exactly what I've been searching for. I wanted a natural, less glossy finish with a beautiful smell and you've provided all of these. Will go sourcing for products tomorrow. I live around 5 hours from Sydney so may have to wait until the next farmers markets for the beeswax though. Thank you so very much!
Made my first batch Works 10 times better than store-bought!
I can't wait to try this, thanks a lot.
I enjoy the intro music. Despite what others say, I like that the intro is long, and it's inspiring to watch traditional woodworkers do their work.
And ride the elevators up and down to listen to the music too. lol, just kidding.
The song is “Hard times come again no more” by Steven Foster 1854
Great video thanks for posting 👍
Love this and your shop!
Thank you for the advise on making this traditional polish.
Just made my first Jar, doing exactly what you said, worked beautifully, I am no way by any means a experience woodworker but I do like to play around in the shop and this is perfect for the little things that I do thank you so very much
Glad to see I'm not the only one who hoards talenti gelato containers
Yes sir...the gift that keeps giving...around the shop and around the waist line!
Just started a muzzle loader build. Thanks for this vid and it's good info. Plan to use this finish on it after staining the wood with a propolis tincture. All from our own bees.
You the man! That propolis is damn fine stuff - as a fellow keep, I’ve used the mix for boots, gear, wood, iron etc - but that propolis is the bull horn! Excellent stuff for instrument (musical repair) etc. 👍
I've made similar but with pure flax oil with food-grade bees and carnauba waxes. Works great and is safe on surfaces that may touch food.
Thanks, I will try it out. Have some oak bed to do.
best regards.
Just cooked up a batch of this as my first wax based finish and it's great! It was easy to apply, dried super fast (with a bit of help from a blow dryer to work it in better). I have one question though: how long does it take for the smell of the turpentine to fade away after application?
Turpentine is a "byproduct" of making Pine Tar, which is also a fantastic additive for this finish, especially on woods that will be in high moisture environments or outside. I prefer to use Pine Tar over the linseed oil, personally, because it keeps thing in the family, so to speak, and the pine tar has anti-microbial properties that help prevent mold/mildew blooms and bug infestations. It's not any more durable than the linseed oil, but it also does more to help the wood, in my estimation.
A liquid pine tar ?
@@safecyber7996 Yep. Great stuff. Comes in cans like paint. It's been used for thousands of years and you can even make it yourself if you have some pine and can build a fire.
You can also buy it from places that deal with livestock - vets, country stores, etc. They use it as an antimicrobial/bacterial wound dressing.
If you have a large wood/traditional boating scene near you, those kinds of stores might also carry it.
I just buy mine online. Tenda, Bickmore, and Davey's are good brand names. There's one brand with a big horseshoe on the label that you should steer clear of. They cook their stuff down to a paste like axle grease and then you have to add turpentine to it to make it more usable.
But for preserving wood, there's nothing better, imo. Sailors used it to paint their ships, ropes, and sails because it has that anti-rot stuff in it that preserved their organic material while they were out on the ocean.
You can even mix in powdered pigments to make paint. Iron Oxide + Pine Tar + Linseed Oil..... that's the reason we have barns that are red. The Iron Oxide and Pine Tar worked together to prevent the wood from rotting.
Great stuff, and everyone should have a quart on the shelf.
Good job 👍
Great thanks for this recipe and tutoriial, I love the natural finish
Really beautiful finish!!
Outstanding, many thanks
Great video thanks for sharing.
Great video!
Really good video!
Thanks Amanda!
Can I use tung oil in place of the linseed
Those Talenti ice cream jars are great for lots of things around the shop. I always save mine.
Ha, ha, yup, they're great!
May I ask what finish is on the block of wood being worked on at the end of the video? Its exactly the effect that I like.
Thank you for sharing, you are good! Learnt a lot.
Muito agradecido pela sua bondade de levar conhecimentos aos seus semelhantes.
I will give this a try but what I have used in the past is just beeswax And food safe mineral oil. 1 1/2 cups of oil to 70 g of beeswax. You can adjust the amount of beeswax that you want to use.
Thank you!
Thank you so much for this tutorial! It's made the process seem less daunting.
Thanks very much!
Good work I like it.
Love the stool!
Glad you love it! We have a class on making it, if you live near Virginia
@@WoodAndShop I wish I did but I'm in the UK - if I'm ever over there....
@@deemdoubleu Ha, ha, yeah, that would be a bit difficult. The class is taught by David Ray Pine. He did an article on making the stool in Fine Woodworking Magazine (issue #80). Where in the UK are you? I used to live up in Scotland.
@@WoodAndShop Lancashire, my wife is a Scot (and don't I know it haha). Thanks for the info! BTW how did you find obtaining wood over here? I find it quite difficult to get hold of nice raw materials, certainly not readily available locally. It seems like you just pick it up from the side of the road over the the USA.
@@deemdoubleu Yes, you definitely know a Scot! Where's she from in Scotland? Finding wood here is quite easy, and yes, you can pick up wood on the side of the road! I get free lumber all the time, so I feel spoiled. And yes, much harder in the UK I'm sure. But I guess it also depends on where you live: countryside vs. city.
Nice. Thanks a lot. Its simple and easy
TURPENTINE OIL 7 litres
DB LINSEED OIL 5 litres
TERMINATOR OIL 2 litres
APPLE CIDER VINEGAR 2 litres
PIDILITE EXTERIOR VARNISH 5 litres
BEES WAX 2.5kg/2 litres
TURPENTINE RESIN 1.6 kgs
Leave it in a sealed tin can in sun for a week so that everything is blended , shake it well before every use.
This makes a perfect, tried and tested polish for wood houses.Only for exterior.
Hello! Could you also use tung oil instead of linseed oil?
I work at a retirement home, I am also a wood carver. One of our residence has been carving for years and was wanting to make one more carving on a piece of white pine, he's mentioned he uses a beeswax/turpentine mixture for his finish. So today we are going to pick up a piece of white pine, beeswax, turpentine and maybe some linseed oil. Thank you for posting this video.
How cool! Thanks for letting me know! I'd love to see photos of the carving when he's finished: woodandshop.com/submit-your-woodworking-project-workshop/
Thank you! I know you must receive a gazillion of questions from us, but I'm taking my chance: I have an oak buffet that's finished with stain and protective lacquer. What should I use as a final finish to give it a nice look (not mate) over the lacquer, bees wax, some kind of mix?
Once you have the three components mixed in the jar you may want to try placing the open jar into the hot water (no fire) to remelt the wax and then re-stir the mixture. Also, when you refer to "historical" you may want to briefly explain from where and when the process came. It adds to your credibility as a resource/authority.
very well said Steve Frank
how can I make a similar finish for cutting boards?
culinary wood projects could use beeswax melted with mineral oil
Half and half? I've been turning some goblets lately and was debating on how to finish the outside. The insides I use melted pine rosin with a little beeswax melted in but it can get tacky with hand temperature.
I made a wax for spoons using equal parts cold press walnut oil and coconut oil. Use the same 3:1 wax ratio.
excellent tutorial, and enjoyable, thanks Joshua
You're most welcome!
Will gum turpentine work? I happen to have the gum form handy. I love the natural smell of pine trees. The artificial smell doesn't satisfy lol! Ie pine household cleaners.
Very good..
Would this be a suitable finish for plywood boxes for my grandson's lego? Ty for the recipe! 👍
Thank you so much! I'm actually planning to use it on a rune set that I'm crafting, just small wood pieces with rune carvings to scry on, and I was looking for some organic varnish for that ^^
I'm a beekeeper so I have my own wax. Thanks for the recipe.
I'm a beekeeper too, but all my bees died :(
Wood and Shop I'm doing 7 hives this year
Greetings. Would the rag used for waxing be prone to self combusting because of the boiled linseed oil?
I really want to try this! FYI, the markings on the jar are called "graduations".
lol, no, they are not.
@@NobleSteed00 lol, yes, they are. If you ever took chemistry classes, the tubular containers you poured chemicals into, that had ml or cl markings on the side, are called "graduated cylinders." They are so called because the cylinder has "graduation" marks printed on the side of glass container. FWIW
@@kevinf6413 just took IPS but even I definitely know this.. some people 🤣🤦🏾♂️
Thank you it was very helpful much appreciated
You're welcome Elaine!
What do you think about using this on oak veneer plywood?
Thanks, I just did this yesterday, but used mineral spirits instead of turpentine, which hopefully will work as well for a gunstock wax.
I like your little footstool. Do you have a tutorial on that?
Church furniture finish ! 😊
What would you use to finish an oak dinner table?
Gerçekten güzel anlattınız. Teşekkürler
Ne oluyo bu simdi
how long does this recipe take to dry? Do you put on multiple coats or just one.
Can I use it for outdoor wooden panel for protection?
I’m glad I’ve stumbled into, onto, whichever...happy to subscribe!
welcome Tom!
Can this be applied to stained wood without messing up the color?
Nice video. I'll have to try this.
A rice cooker works great and you can add all the ingredients at once. Great video, thanks,
Great tutorial, great recipe, I’m off to to workshop to make some. It’s just what I was looking for. Thankyou
Can i use it on a vanished piece as a polish
Josh, I really appreciate the preservation of historical woodworking methods, especially in today's age of instant...everything! While I live in Alaska now (totem poles are some examples of traditional Tlingit and Haida wood working), my family is from North Carolina and probably came over on the Mayflower (Thomas Rogers signed the Compact). I own 30' fiberglass sailboat but she has some nice teak both inside and out and people are always amazed at how beautiful my teak is when it's done w/ teak oil and a good quality clear varnish. To get the oil to soak in, I allow pieces to soak in the oil overnight and then do 5-6 coats of varnish that dry for 24-48 hours. It can take a week to finish one piece! I plan on retiring in a couple of years and moving back to the Carolina's and exploring some of the traditional and historical aspects of the lives of these early pioneers. Thanks for contributing to the continuation of the knowledge of traditional woodworking techniques.
Cool Wade! I used to live in Alaska. A very magical place, but also tough place to live.
Josh, I've been here for almost 28 years and since I boat in SE Alaska, I get to see a lot of timber! And whales. It is magical and I love being able to get out and get into wildlife. Hope to visit Colonial Williamsburg after retirement.
Wow, sounds like MY dream come true to boat around Alaska. I lived in Fairbanks, so I didn't see the coast.
Did you retire?
@@HighTone45 yes. 4 years ago…
Once again thx for the great info
You're sure welcome Josey!
Also, is it a wipe on wipe off finish or do you let it sit for a while? Thank you
Just the beeswax with work if I apply on my wooden plates?
Thank you Josh for sharing this is a finish I'll be using from now on. I can't wait not only to have it but I look forward to the smell !
Thank you. I'm looking to experiment for the best things (for various people's preferences or various options to offer) when it comes to the insides and outside of wooden flutes, such as Native American-style flutes. I need to keep the mouthpiece 100% food-safe, but I don't see why I can't use some of my copious quantities of regular boiled linseed oil on the rest of the instrument. Beeswax and oil is a major tradition with these, but I don't mind the thought of incorporating an oil that will eventually tend to polymerize even if it's over time. I don't have turpentine but I have "Turpentene" which I guess is too much of an unknown. A turpentine mimic with petroleum. I'm trying to use some things I already have, which includes beeswax, boiled linseed oil, safflower oil, olive oil (I hear that spoils in wood, whereas it surely doesn't on my veg-tanned leather, I suppose because of the tanning preservatives), 90% mineral oil with 10% lemon oil, coconut oil, and tea tree herbal anti-fungal oil mix that's supposedly ok to chew your nails with. I will definitely use some of that to fight mildew. And I do not mind making two batches (one for mouthpiece and one for the rest).
Thanks for your videos
Great info, thanks! If I wanted to add a mica or pigment powder to color this paste and use it as a decorative furniture wax when I want it to lay deep into carved surfaces, would the ingredients be the same? How long does this mixture take to cure and not feel "greasy"? Thank you again.
I have seen pumice added to the mix and it does some fine sanding for you, possibly more appropriate for woodturning.
Great video,
I really like the wood polish. Just one question. Why do you use yellow bees wax as opposed to white bees wax? Yellow bees wax darkens wood such as Marri.
Have you tried that? I'm somewhat surprised. As an FYI, Yellow beeswax is older wax from the hive which becomes dark due to exposure to honey and other things. The white beeswax is either 1) cappings that were removed in order to harvest the honey, or 2) yellow wax that has been treated chemically (bleached). The bleached (sometimes mistakenly referred to as "purified") wax is inferior especially if natural products are desired for your project. Just something to be aware. Cheers.
Thanks for showing that, Joshua. Some of my finishing references indicate that in the 17th-18th centuries boiled linseed oil was first applied and allowed to cure, referred to as 'priming' the wood. Then the beeswax polish was applied. Have you heard of this?
Yes I have. There are many variations, but this is a more quick and simple method.
Boiled linseed dries pretty quickly anyway.
Great recipe. Simple and easy. I like that. Thanks!
put all the ingredients into the double boiler and heat them up together, stirring regularly. Eliminates the suspended wax particles and gives you a uniform paste with the consistency of shoe polish. Use more BLO and turp to give a more vaseline consistency.
Turpentine and linseed oil are flammable, it was even mentioned right in the video.
Loved it thanks, will be making some for furniture shop
I've never put turpentine in my oil n wax. Ill give a try when it stops snowing
I really like to try this one! Thankscand subscribed 😊👍
This is a great finish but Joshua is showing the messy method. The easiest way to do it is add all the ingredients into a jar as described BUT use a crockpot with water in it. Measure the beeswax by weight. 3 OZ of beeswax coincidentally weighs 3 OZ, how convenient. Set the crockpot on medium and let the wax melt. Stir as required. Done. No mess. Btw, any thrift shop will have a crockpot for a few bucks.
Yes, that is certainly more convenient. The only downside is that occasionally the jars crack, causing an even bigger mess. Thanks for sharing!
just use a crockpot, you don't need water, even better heat the separate ingredients in crockpots and they blend much better, I have been making something similar for 35 years.
Still good information look forward to hear from you...
Do you have a suggestion for a large western red cedar sculpture that will be outside mostly undercover in a cool rainy environment?
I actually made this for my cutting board, but without turpentine and with wallnut oil instead instead of line seed oil.
Thanks for the info Josh!
Any reason why you can't heat the BLO and turpentine a little bit for a better mix and skip that 2-3 days in the window sill?
i wonder if you could use parrifen or gulf wax nstead of bees wax
If you heat up the linseed oil enough to disolve the wachs in it, then let it cool while stirring, you end up with a similar creamy paste, that you can rub on your furniture, without the turpentine fumes. Especially good for bowls and other stuff where you don't want turpentine left over in your food. You don't need boiled linseed oil, you can just buy regular old linseed oil. Takes longer to cure and harden, but it's more natural and food save. Additionally it penetrates deeper into the wood because it flows better than the boiled linseed oil.
You mean better skip turpentine in formula ?
@@safecyber7996 If you want it to be food safe: Yes.
@@W4ldgeist 100% beeswax is Ok ? Becouse some oil tend to rancid quick
Just use a hardening oil (linseed, walnut, tung) that will harden before they go rancid - although oxidation is kind of going rancid the big difference is that the fully hardened oil is foodsafe and doesn’t have a horrible smell. Stay away from olive oil. It basically never hardens and will go rancid.
Awesome video, Joshua, I really enjoyed it. One thing though: you might want to use an electric heater around flammable materials. Fire, solvents and lots of dry wood aren't the safest combination.
Fabulous
this polish can we use in resine epoxy table
Can you add dye to your wax? Let's say I'd like to darken the finish?
Great video.What are the measurements for the beeswax say l want to make 1kg of this precious wax