Towing the Blazer out to Utah with the Cummins powered Suburban! Squarebody road trip!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
- What an adventure! Three weeks ago I was getting my butt kicked by my drivetrain issues! Those are all behind hopefully after a 1000 mile road trip out to Sand Hollow in Utah for a week of wheeling and exploring!
See how the Burb did, and the inevitable issues that arose during the trip.
The link to the dashcam in the video: AZDOME M550
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Look into champion radiators. They have four core versions for most full size trucks. Also GM/chevy used a taller radiator in the big block trucks. look into what it takes to run one of those.
Yea I am looking at them. Looks like a great option if I can fit it
You should use the 2nd gen ram radiator and try to find a 1st gen intercooled fanclutch and alternator pulley, they will give you more room between the fan and radiator
The fan clutch was hard to find. I have a gen II intercooler but the rad I ordered didn’t fit. Need to trace another.
hey for those spectra radiators the house brand at autozone or napa or orileys is usually a spectra and though the quality isnt oem its the best commonly available option you can get for most applications. I run one in my notoriously hot running 94 cherokee (210-240ish is operating temp for the 4.0) and its perfect, runs cool and hasnt leaked for 2 years and if it leaks or i have an issue autozone doesn't jerk me around on the warranty they just pull a new one off the shelf for me same day. I think you should see if theres a radiator maybe from a first gen or 2nd gen cummins you can get through the parts stores and adapt it so you can run a commonly available part since on a tow rig serviceability is a huge deal. stick through the parts store rad = no problem buy another autozone radiator, stick through a custom aluminum rad = dead in the water
I totally agree. That’s why I went with it in the first place. My Blazer has gone through about 8 aluminum Griffin radiators and I said screw it and put in the parts store. No more leaking!
@@MerricksGarage are you running a cummins rad or the square rad? I've seen both with used on the swap. i'm trying to nail down my plan of attack for a cummins swap crew cab 4x4
I saw you on the side of the road just outside of Baker on the 15. I should have turned around and stopped to help but it looked like you had it. Safe travels bud!
Lol yea the doubler slipped out of high again. I need to put a retention spring on it or something.
You probably saw fab rats and Matt's offroad recovery up there
Man this makes me want a barndoor suburban. I already have a k5 blazer.. please do a video on Dakota dash install that's in the future for me
I am just finishing up the install. It is rad. The hardest part is hooking up the wiring but that’s what I think I’ll show in the video. Where dimmer wire signal is etc
Brave man hitting the road with half the gauges not working lol. So why didn't you use a Dodge Cummins radiator ? On my Cummins swap I'm still running the stock Chevy K20 copper radiator and it has work well so far lol. I have the Dakota Digital VHX series and it works awesome easy setup comes with sensors about as plug and play as you can get it for a build like that. Keep them videos coming ... good stuff 🤙🤙🤙
That’s good to hear. I couldn’t find a new radiator that wasn’t a plastic tank unit. Would love to have a metal one
Hi love your work. If you are interested in building a 1980 3x3 dually I have one for ya. Also a 85 3/4 burb to sweeten the deal if you decide to take on the build. Been watching your stuff for years!
What engines?
1980 is a clean slate. Has a 454 but always wanted a cummins. 85 burb has a built 6.5 4l80e and tailgate instead of barn doors.
You need to install a good dual disk clutch. Before it smokes itself on the highway in the middle of nowhere.
Definitely need a bigger radiator. Great video.
You need a 4 core radiator as well with axillary fans outside behind grill or bigger fans inside but both inside and outside both sides radiator .fans
Yes! I just need to find one!
How did you like trip to Moab?
didn't go to Moab this time. Was out in Sand Hollow this trip! Awesome time, I'll have the video up soon
Both of my 12 valves run between 160° and 180°. I have only had one get hot, the fan clutch died and I was towing over a hill and it was over 100° outside.
Great result man. I remember when you shared your build specs, and here is the finished article. Huge respect for what you have undertaken and achieved. Very inspiring, thank you
Much appreciated!
Well done sir, I have been watching your channel for over three years now and it has been awesome to watch your skills continue to grow. Keep rocking the failures and the success brother!
Thanks man. As long as the failures don’t outweigh the successes I will be all good!
How did you pass smog inspection here in California..?
this was a diesel title VIN build
how are the brakes with all the weight and 38s? seems a bit much for stock dana 60 brakes. if thats what your running!
The stock Dana 60 do just fine they are big old single piston calipers and massive heavy discs but they get the job done. The rear helps too especially towing
The factory radiators from the GM 6.2 & 6.5 Detroit Diesels would be perfect for the Cummins without a lot of unnecessary gymnastics with installation.
Hose routing would be your only challenge.
Brass side tanks and rad fins makes for easy trail fixes with a brazing rod and propane torch.
Yea but I can’t find an original. They are always the new plastic junk ones
@@MerricksGarage I got a oe brass tanked one from the junkyard and had it rebuild by a local radiator shop. But I do believe a company called mishimoto sells one now for these... maybe. (Saw one in a crew cab but didn't get a chance to ask if it was made for it or modified to work)
@@stellco I have a Mishimoto OEM style replacement radiator that I will be using for my GMT400 Cummins swap. Its a replacement for a 454 and is very large. Quite a few old school guys don't like radiators with plastic end tanks but the stock one in my Suburban has lasted 305k miles. To each their own I guess.
yea, I don't have a problem with the plastic tanks. My BMW is plastic and is doing fine. I just worry about capacity. They just don't seem as large. I am continuing my search though. A junkyard might be the best option in the end....
You may have mentioned this in the rest of your burb series, but how’d you manage to Cummins swap in California?
you need a diesel titled VIN. That's the only way. This is an 83 diesel with 89 fascia
That is what I’ve been reading… would love to achieve a similar build with my 98 k2500 Suburban, but it has the small block.
do you think you might need a more heavier duty clutch? the weight of the burb, the trailer and the k5 might just be too much for the clutch? usually there is never an issue with cummins. Im sure it is fine especially with barely any issues with the burb. it is a project. you put it together, drove it and still testing. Not every project is perfect the first time go around and a lot of channels do not show issues they have with their builds. You did an awesome job and its probably a dream fora lot of us square body guys out there. Square body + cummins/manual + 1 tons = perfection
Thanks dude. Yea that’s what a lot of people miss. I got the build mobile but that doesn’t mean it’s finished. It’s far from it. Now that it is working it is time to fine tune and polish all the rough edges.
I will go to a heavy clutch after this one dies. So far so good though. Going to a dual disc or metal clutch will impact daily driving though and I wanted to see if I could get away with reg clutch first.
@@MerricksGarage you can get organic dual disks from Valair which won't be near as bad with a ceramic clutch. Either way backing up trailers and stuff like that 4lo is your friend to keep from being jerky
@@MerricksGarage sometimes you have to give to take. And sacrifice a little daily driving will give you a better tow rig.
A Cummins 3500 makes an awesome hauler BUT the short gears make it a mess at times for highway or cross country cruising. But it could tow 10k easy all day long…..
It’s a dope project which will never be finished because there are always things to improve on
Lookin good! I’ve had pretty good luck with the 12 valves that I’ve had. Typically run pretty cool…. I even ran one without a cooling fan for two years. I’d just turn the heater on when I was in traffic….lol. Now that we’ve got AC I’ve noticed that it runs just a bit hotter whenever I pull our camper. I don’t expect you’d have much trouble with that electric fan setup, but I’m excited to see what you do with this build next!
It looks like the rear axle is about 2” rearward. If you reverse the springs won’t that make it about 2” too fare forward? +/-4” is a pretty big swing. I have a few square bodies that I’d like to do things to and watch your channel along with others for ideas. Great content. Thanks.
Thanks man. I need to measure the springs exactly to see what the wheelbase changes will be but I don’t think it’s gonna be 4 inches
@@MerricksGarage I forget if you went with a 56” spring or not. You special ordered them through ORD, right?Wonder if they centered the pin? Hence moving it back 2”. As you know, then it wouldn’t matter which way they’re installed.
Can't wait to see you fix the rear end. PUMPED!!
I just noticed that I'm seeing daylight under your driver's side leafspring when you filmed from the rear of the burb. Did that leaf not align with the dimple on the axle housing mount? I had a similar issue when I put new leafs in my 72 Jimmy. I had to lightly grind the corners of the bolt head under the spring to allow it to fit my stock axle housing to allow it to sit down tight.
I did. I had to grind it quite a bit too. It’s all gonna get revisited when I pull them out. It rides so killer with the custom leaves though!!
Always love your videos and the hard work you put in. I too was curious about successfully swapping a diesel in California. I have an 89 burb, does horrible 5mpg towing my jeep, and can't pull a grade. Been thinking of a cummins swap. You going to do a short video on that process at some point?
It’s simple but not easy or cheap. Start with a diesel vin. In my case this was a diesel titled vehicle to begin with. An 83
Diesel Burb is my ultimate dream now... It's your fault James
You are welcome. It’s as rad as it looks
@@MerricksGarage When you looked at the milspec square body, did you see any tricks they used that could make your boxed frame even stronger ? I feel yours might be actually stronger to be honest, except maybe for that front member your friend mentioned in the video that ties the front of the frame... although your cummins is quite a strong tie in between the frame hehe
Such a cool trip. I’m hoping to run my Burb to Full Size Invasion in a couple of years
The wheelbase of the burbs makes them killer in the rocks.
Awesome stuff! Let’s go get it!
Here me out just flip the leafs around don't cut anything . should be 26 from hanger to center pin if it's a 56 leaf pack if you gotta move your shackle hanger then you gotta move your shackle hanger.
I think it’s a 63” though. Been so long since I got them I can’t remember what the length was.
Where are you located?
Cali Central Coast
You should absolutely rig up an oil pressure gauge. 'B is for Build" channel destroyed one of his diesel engines on his boat because of not having an oil gauge.. Temp gauge is needed too, but you'll see signs of high temp. There is no warning of low or no oil pressure. By the time you realize it, it's too late- because now your engine is knocking. Oil pressure gauge should be your TOP priority-- I can't stress it enough.
Yea it is. That’s one of the main reasons for the upgrade. Then again I knew I had oil pressure. The gauge said 60psi! Ha ha
If ever there was a man I was jealous of....