I like both. CA would be harder, more brittle, UV would be softer. So dents and scratches would fallow suit. Just got some UV stuff. Im wandering how well it cures between two sheets of opaque material such as metal or very dark glass, plastic etc. Where its hard toget light into.?
Yes we do! It is a bit harder of a material so I would sand as high in grit as possible but then you should finish with a polish compound like zam that we have on our site!
Do you have a description or even a link to the accessories for your lathe? I only have a wooden mandrel, but these are quite handy for finishing I reckon
You need to do a full dip in UV resin for a complete coating and then set it all in one go. Can then file/sand it down a little bit if its a bit thick. Gives an amazing finish as its a complete coat all the way around in one go 👍
It was a nova chuck with some soft jaws. However since this video we have created and use our own jaws now for the nova. shopdreamwood.com/collections/ring-blanks-and-adhesives/products/lathe-jaws-3d-printed
It depends on how it is applied. In this case I didn't polish it because my last coat went on perfectly. If I put it over a channel and had to sand it down then yes I would polish it.
Can I use uv resin and CA glue on the top of the resin? Just put 1st layer of uv and another of CA glue? How many layers of CA glue should I put to make product waterproof? What are the tools for polishing CA glue? How long do you wait with polishing ( how long the car glue dries?)
I have tried multiple layers of different finishes and it usually does not turn out well. I use a Zam polish compound you can find at Shopdreamwood.com as well as a cotton buffing wheel!
CA is harder, more brittle. UV is softer. Hence, one scratches and shows dents, and the other flexes more. So, CA being harder would be placed first, then the softer UV. Just my take on it.
There it is, watching right now. Took not to long dude. Nice work buddy, working with uv for about 3to4 months and youre right. Took a bunch of rings to set the thickness and size right with the uv. Both have their amazing capabilities.
I've used both Alumi Uv and also some other brands I found off Amazon which seems to work just as well. The light I got from AliExpress to get a 300 watt uv light that matches what the resin needs.
My issue is the feel. Alumi-UV Resin always has an almost soft hard plastic feel. Is that normal? It is solid but that feelings feels cheap. Am I doing something wrong? I envisioned it would feel like glass not clear plastic. I am doing 4mm steel channel cores.
It should feel harder than the CA. If you think it is soft maybe it's possible it hasn't cured all the way? But at the end of the day it is just a resin.
The biggest issue with Alumi UV is that no one can recommend a proper UV light to cure it. It claims to harden in seconds with a 365mns uv light, but most uv lights claiming to have 365mns are junk. I've bought three lights so far and none harden the Alumi uv properly, I'm about to give up
I purchased a 365nm light 300watt from Aliexpress. It at least cures in 8minutes or less. Feel free to send me an email I can send you the link...I believe it was about $75.
I have the exact same issue. I’m on my third lamp. Called Alumilite and was told to get a higher wattage lamp. Bought a 50w and still won’t cure after many, many hours. So frustrating.
This is a resin problem, not the UV. I've "had" the same problem until I've compared a friends resins with the same lights. All lights worked on his product... But good resin and the lights honestly won't matter. If you have light cloud cover, UV will still work on hardening it, even after a few hours. The resin is the key component.
I use UV resin and one of my customer's rings turned yellow over time. She said she had used hand gel all the time and said this is why it turned yellow. Is this the case or is there something wrong with the process I have used or the resin? Thanks
What brand did you use? I don't think it is anything you did. It could be chemicals she is using on her hand for sure! But also some brands of the UV resin will yellow more than others.
A big point with Alumiuv, and they say this is the data sheet, is that the medium can’t be porous, if the medium absorb the alumiuv you will have a layer of wet causing bad adhesion and a short life. This principle also applies to a dirty surface. It also has to be much thicker than a CA finish because alumiuv is semi-flexible. The best way is to do multiple coats, doing a light sand after each cure. If you can solve these issues it makes a freaking great ring functional coating.
Good to know! Even with multiple coats of the resin would the first layer still have those adhesion issues though? I also have problems with adhesion even on some non porous material. Although I've not tried scuffing that material since it had to have a gloss finish.
@@DreamwoodRings ya you will, the base coat is the one that really matters. Like I said, it has to be thickkk, thick of what a resin coated bar top looks like. You probably have bad adhesion because you have a thin coat with a short life. Another great trick is to get a spray can of adhesion promoter, it’s a clear primer, and a life saver. uPol brand is the best imo but you’ll have to order it, the next one I like is dupli-color, that you can get at most auto stores. Do a CA coat to seal the wood, sand smooth with like 800grit sandpaper. Then adhesion promoter, two coats is plenty, then alumiuv. Make sure to let the adhesion promoter cure first, alumiuv won’t let the adhesion promoter out-gas. Remember to do multiple coats of alumiuv, 800grit smooth sand inbetween each coat. Don’t sand the last coat, if you sanded well it’s be smooth like glass.
Thanks for posting this. I found it really helpful. You mentioned using UV resin for metal channel rings. Do you have issues with stonework coming out of the channel when using ca glue as the resin and if so, does using UV resin solve this problem? This is a problem I'm having with using CA glue in channel rings and I would appreciate any feedback. Thanks!
I have not had good luck with the resins. They don't finish up as good, and have a soft feel. They don't polish good either. CA looks and polishes much better. Except I have had .CA rings come back in a few months all beat to hell. The .CA doesn't seem strong or durable enough. Wish there was a super durable product out there.
I agree, have you tried the flex ca? Since we have been using it I have not had any rings come back damaged. I would try it out if you haven't. shopdreamwood.com/products/insta-flex-flexible-thin-ca-glue-bsi-adhesives
Have you tried applying the finishes in other ways? For CA, I see most people on TH-cam putting multiple coats- 8 or so; on UV, I've seen people glue a fine string to the edge of the ring and dipping it in the resin before the UV bath. I'm just wondering if applying things differently would make a difference since dipping might give a thicker coat and get the edges while multiple coats of XA might add strength/resilience.
I have, and it takes forever with worse results in my opinion! Just letting it roll and dry like that takes less than 10 minutes for a perfect finish. I will use the UV resin on Metal edged rings, but think the CA has an overall better finish.
@DreamwoodRings do you still use the uv resin for inlays? I've thought about long cure casting resins instead of UV as well but each ring would take longer per layer of resin. The casting resins seem to be harder.
Thank you so much for this video. Still a tough decision but knowing that the CA finish looks better as it wears down is huge.
Glad it was helpful! That was the biggest turning point for me as well.
Great thank! Glad I went with CA
Good choice! I think it is all around better and easier!
What are those pads you're using to polish?
They are micro mesh pads, however since filming this video I have just moved to 3m 1,000-1,500-2,000 and so on. Much cheaper and works just as well!
I like both. CA would be harder, more brittle, UV would be softer. So dents and scratches would fallow suit. Just got some UV stuff. Im wandering how well it cures between two sheets of opaque material such as metal or very dark glass, plastic etc. Where its hard toget light into.?
This would be a great alternative for CA glue when making pens too I think.
That would be interesting. I have found the resin works better when it is thicker but could work!
can you buff the uv finish
Yes we do! It is a bit harder of a material so I would sand as high in grit as possible but then you should finish with a polish compound like zam that we have on our site!
Do you have a description or even a link to the accessories for your lathe? I only have a wooden mandrel, but these are quite handy for finishing I reckon
Try searching for expanding ring mandrel. We are working to hopefully carry them soon!.
You need to do a full dip in UV resin for a complete coating and then set it all in one go. Can then file/sand it down a little bit if its a bit thick.
Gives an amazing finish as its a complete coat all the way around in one go 👍
Thanks for the tip!
What kind of chuck is that for when you do the inside of the ring and edges?
It was a nova chuck with some soft jaws. However since this video we have created and use our own jaws now for the nova. shopdreamwood.com/collections/ring-blanks-and-adhesives/products/lathe-jaws-3d-printed
@@DreamwoodRings will these work with the G3 nova chuck? Sorry, I don't have any experience with these types of chucks!
@@sykes378 no problem. They will work for that chuck yes. It is the same one I have I believe.
What about a finish comparison when using hand sanitizer for healthcare workers?
That is a great idea!
What is the fitting you have your wood rings on? It looks adjustable too.
It is a expanding ring mandrel there are few places that sell these if you search those keywords!
Do you not polish the UV RESIN at all?
It depends on how it is applied. In this case I didn't polish it because my last coat went on perfectly. If I put it over a channel and had to sand it down then yes I would polish it.
Can you us a uv flashlight to cure the uv resion? Or do you have to have a uv curing oven?
You can use a uv flashlight, it might just take longer. Getting the right wavelength light will help as well.
@@DreamwoodRings thank you very much for the info sir!!👍👍
Can I use uv resin and CA glue on the top of the resin? Just put 1st layer of uv and another of CA glue? How many layers of CA glue should I put to make product waterproof?
What are the tools for polishing CA glue? How long do you wait with polishing ( how long the car glue dries?)
I have tried multiple layers of different finishes and it usually does not turn out well. I use a Zam polish compound you can find at Shopdreamwood.com as well as a cotton buffing wheel!
@@DreamwoodRings 🙏 thank you
CA is harder, more brittle. UV is softer. Hence, one scratches and shows dents, and the other flexes more. So, CA being harder would be placed first, then the softer UV. Just my take on it.
There it is, watching right now. Took not to long dude.
Nice work buddy, working with uv for about 3to4 months and youre right. Took a bunch of rings to set the thickness and size right with the uv. Both have their amazing capabilities.
It was a quick one take edit 😁 thank you!
What kind of uv resin and light do you use?
I've used both Alumi Uv and also some other brands I found off Amazon which seems to work just as well. The light I got from AliExpress to get a 300 watt uv light that matches what the resin needs.
Can UV resin be applied over a CA finish?
No it shouldn't it will peel right off.
@@DreamwoodRings can I apply CA glue on uv resin?
It may work, but you should mark the resin with maybe 220 or 400 first. I'm not real sure how it will turn out though!
When using CA for the finish coat are you using a thin or a think CA?
Usually using thin ca
@@DreamwoodRings perfect, I'll give that a try, thank you
why dont you use the accelerator with the ca glue?
It messes things up way more than helping. Especially on the last coat the way I do it.
what about yellowing in sunlight overtime ?
I've not noticed either finish yellow. I have had a tray of rings with both finished out for local markets and both still look great.
My issue is the feel. Alumi-UV Resin always has an almost soft hard plastic feel. Is that normal? It is solid but that feelings feels cheap. Am I doing something wrong? I envisioned it would feel like glass not clear plastic. I am doing 4mm steel channel cores.
It should feel harder than the CA. If you think it is soft maybe it's possible it hasn't cured all the way? But at the end of the day it is just a resin.
What's bit bit or chuck you're using?
The red jaws are soft jaws from Nova and the chuck is also a nova chuck
Thanks! Is that a specific bit for holding the ring?
@@CatCityDesign It's an expanding ring mandrel
The biggest issue with Alumi UV is that no one can recommend a proper UV light to cure it. It claims to harden in seconds with a 365mns uv light, but most uv lights claiming to have 365mns are junk. I've bought three lights so far and none harden the Alumi uv properly, I'm about to give up
I purchased a 365nm light 300watt from Aliexpress. It at least cures in 8minutes or less. Feel free to send me an email I can send you the link...I believe it was about $75.
I have the exact same issue. I’m on my third lamp. Called Alumilite and was told to get a higher wattage lamp. Bought a 50w and still won’t cure after many, many hours. So frustrating.
This is a resin problem, not the UV. I've "had" the same problem until I've compared a friends resins with the same lights. All lights worked on his product...
But good resin and the lights honestly won't matter. If you have light cloud cover, UV will still work on hardening it, even after a few hours. The resin is the key component.
I use UV resin and one of my customer's rings turned yellow over time. She said she had used hand gel all the time and said this is why it turned yellow. Is this the case or is there something wrong with the process I have used or the resin? Thanks
What brand did you use? I don't think it is anything you did. It could be chemicals she is using on her hand for sure! But also some brands of the UV resin will yellow more than others.
The higher grade "hard" uv resins are good in bulk for printers. Almost dental grade stuff if you use a blue laser to cure with eye protection.
Interesting, does it come in clear?
A big point with Alumiuv, and they say this is the data sheet, is that the medium can’t be porous, if the medium absorb the alumiuv you will have a layer of wet causing bad adhesion and a short life.
This principle also applies to a dirty surface.
It also has to be much thicker than a CA finish because alumiuv is semi-flexible. The best way is to do multiple coats, doing a light sand after each cure. If you can solve these issues it makes a freaking great ring functional coating.
Good to know! Even with multiple coats of the resin would the first layer still have those adhesion issues though? I also have problems with adhesion even on some non porous material. Although I've not tried scuffing that material since it had to have a gloss finish.
@@DreamwoodRings ya you will, the base coat is the one that really matters. Like I said, it has to be thickkk, thick of what a resin coated bar top looks like. You probably have bad adhesion because you have a thin coat with a short life.
Another great trick is to get a spray can of adhesion promoter, it’s a clear primer, and a life saver. uPol brand is the best imo but you’ll have to order it, the next one I like is dupli-color, that you can get at most auto stores.
Do a CA coat to seal the wood, sand smooth with like 800grit sandpaper. Then adhesion promoter, two coats is plenty, then alumiuv. Make sure to let the adhesion promoter cure first, alumiuv won’t let the adhesion promoter out-gas. Remember to do multiple coats of alumiuv, 800grit smooth sand inbetween each coat. Don’t sand the last coat, if you sanded well it’s be smooth like glass.
So.... I’ll use both for extra strength xD
Hey Bro, what’s with the black nail polish at the end??? :)
Haha it is a customers picture 😂 showing how bad the UV resin is!
I've been using Solarez products with excellent results for over a year now. I prefer it to any brand of CA and Allumilite UV resin.
Thanks for posting this. I found it really helpful. You mentioned using UV resin for metal channel rings. Do you have issues with stonework coming out of the channel when using ca glue as the resin and if so, does using UV resin solve this problem? This is a problem I'm having with using CA glue in channel rings and I would appreciate any feedback. Thanks!
I don't, both methods work great. IN fact I have started using the CA as the finish once again.
I keep gluing my dang rings to the mandrel and then breaking them trying to get them off. 😂🤣
Less glue! have you tried the glue tips we have on shopdreamwood.com?
I have not had good luck with the resins. They don't finish up as good, and have a soft feel. They don't polish good either. CA looks and polishes much better. Except I have had .CA rings come back in a few months all beat to hell. The .CA doesn't seem strong or durable enough. Wish there was a super durable product out there.
I agree, have you tried the flex ca? Since we have been using it I have not had any rings come back damaged. I would try it out if you haven't. shopdreamwood.com/products/insta-flex-flexible-thin-ca-glue-bsi-adhesives
@@DreamwoodRings is this for the inlay or finish? can you use the same for both or is it better to use two different types?
good vid. answered my question
Awesome! Thanks for the watch.
CA doesn't "dry" It hardens/cures.
Thanks for watching!
Have you tried applying the finishes in other ways? For CA, I see most people on TH-cam putting multiple coats- 8 or so; on UV, I've seen people glue a fine string to the edge of the ring and dipping it in the resin before the UV bath. I'm just wondering if applying things differently would make a difference since dipping might give a thicker coat and get the edges while multiple coats of XA might add strength/resilience.
I have, and it takes forever with worse results in my opinion! Just letting it roll and dry like that takes less than 10 minutes for a perfect finish. I will use the UV resin on Metal edged rings, but think the CA has an overall better finish.
Cool
was thinking of trying Uv resin.. il stick to glue :) thank you ;* check us out :)
C.A . wins :-)
I think so! I still use both today, but it really depends on the project.
@@DreamwoodRingsyes indeed
@DreamwoodRings do you still use the uv resin for inlays? I've thought about long cure casting resins instead of UV as well but each ring would take longer per layer of resin. The casting resins seem to be harder.
@@ttonAb2 as a top coat yes, I started using a hard flexible UV resin it seems to have better results.
the next thing you need to do is get rid of that so called music
Ha thanks! You know, this video is quite old. My "music" has gotten better since. Thank you for the support and watching!
If you don’t like the music don’t watch
that so called music is so bad i had to stop watching the video--GET RID OF IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the feedback! This was one of the very first videos we ever did. Hopefully the newer videos feel better for you.