I bought my 'H' model way back in the '70's. I see they still have the same design. Why change something if it works. Old dog -new tricks - I like the idea of a jar with thinners. I take mine apart to the last part and clean with acetone which takes up time between colors. I have all three sizes of nozzles and they do cover a wide range of applications. Thanks for the great demonstration. At the time I bought the airbrush, I also purchased the Paasche compressor. I quit using it since not having an accumulator tank to smooth out the air flow, it had a 'pulsing' condition which spoiled the spray pattern. Plus there was only one pressure although I could adjust that with the little jack screw under the finger lever.
Just getting into airbrushing. I've just bought this airbrush, can't wait to try it. This tutorial is so helpful for me. Thank you for taking the time to show all the important steps and tips! Will save this one to review again!
This is a great addition for anyone's hobby tool box. The H will lay enamels on Car bodies like nobody's business and when thinned correctly will produce a Mirror finish. Iwata's are great for the small details but for quick priming base coating and even large finish coat jobs the H will never let you down. Like Rex said basically a variable spray can with much better detail and smoother paint laying.
The Paasche H is a nice workhorse for heavy fluids. The Paasche company was around about the same time Orville and Wilbur made their first flight. Nice demo Barbatos!
What i love about paasche airbrushes is their reliability and simplicity. Ive used them for everything from model kits to commercial signmaking and car customization. You cant kill them unless youre really motivated to do so.
This airbrush was left to meby my Dad along with his collection of models. Never had the patience when I was young but have found a lot of joy in model building and continuing his work. I have bought extra sets of needles and tips. Some for spraying metal paints, one for enamels and one for acrylics. Makes changing fast and easy.
Best in depth review of this popular kit. You really tied up all the loose ends and made my selection much easier. Thanks a ton my friend. All of your links in the description are excellent. I will make sure to use your links with my Amazon purchases 🤘
I just inherited this model and I had no idea how to use it. Glad you covered it. I will need to buy a different needle but should be a nice addition to my other airbrush. Thanks Rex!
I had one of these back in the 60's. They are remarkably rugged and work well for prime and base coats. It was my main brush through my early days of model railroading and never let me down.
I bought this airbrush last year and was nervous to use it for the first time but seeing this gives me a lot of confidence that I can use it effectively every time so thank you for posting this.
This is one hell of a work horse airbrush. It sprays really well. Great for clearcoats, primers and painting enamels/lacquers for car models, etc. If I am not mistaken I think the original design is from the late 30's. But like they say, if it ain't broke, why fix it.
After watching this, I'm going to break out my 25 year old Paasche and give it a workout. It served me well for a long time and I'm happy that I never got rid of it. Using it again for priming is a great idea......I'm embarrassed I never thought of it. Thanks for this great episode.
Thank you very much for the review, I absolutely love your channel because of the real world reviews and fantastic content. Thank you again and KEEP ME COMING. Everyone keep yourselves and love ones safe and healthy.
I've had one of these for over 20 years. It's my go to airbrush. In fact it's all I use. I would highly recommend this to anyone starting out airbrushing. Like me you may not even bother with anything else.
I’m still new to airbrush but this was my first brush and I love it. I’ve used it for all sorts of stuff and it’s easy to use and clean up. Thanks for the test.
My brother first purchased this airbrush in 1972 at our local shop called “ The Hobby Shop” in Queens NY.It was the days of Humbrol paint if you were advanced or Testors in the jars. My brother who is always a much better model hthan me always got amazing results. After he would build he would give those models to me and sadly I destroyed everyone of them… he never really seem to mind though. I received his brush as a hand me down and it’s what I learned on. I could never get the same results that he did over the years -more my fault than the brush. At that time I really didn’t know how to thin paint like I do now. Through the years I wore that airbrush out and replaced it with another. I still have the receipt from the one my brother purchased.. that little piece of paper has a lot of sentimental value to me. When I brought my Iwata HP-CS it was a game changer for me. It’s great to see these still used as the great tools they are.Thanks for the review and memories!
Great story and memory . I have the same found memories of my dad teaching me the hobby, then when I started driving my buddy and I would travel all over New England searching hobby shops for models we've never seen. It was work back then way before the internet. He had to search out yellow pages in each state and look-up hobby shops
It truly is a workhorse. I use this specific airbrush and have two of them. I have one just for my enamel clears and the other strictly for my enamel paints. I also have an Iwata HP-CS for my base coat lacquer colors and a Grex Tritium for my fine work.
I really appreciate that you have all these videos. My brother concerned me the other day when he warmed me about excessive amounts of overspray. He used to airbrush HO scale train models and he said the room would be filled with overspray and fumes even with a spraybooth exhaust running. So I went into the basement and found his old airbrush just to see what exactly he was using. Turned out he was using a Paasche H0811, single action siphon feed, with Walmart craft department acrylics, in a basement with next to zero airflow with the exception of the spraybooth exhaust. So I came here to see if your test of a Paasche H model could shed anymore light on why he was getting so much overspray which I've never seen be an issue in any video as long as a spraybooth exhaust was running. But your video actually did the opposite, I can't see any particular reason outside of room conditions or specific usage that there would be so much. This airbrush, which is at least in the same family, I couldn't even find the H0811 on their website, actually looks really good. I don't know why, but going into this hobby I was led to believe that gravity-fed airbrushes were far better than siphon feed's. But this works fantastically it would seem, especially with the customizable needle, and the ability to hot swap pre-prepared paints like the Sparmax Flyer, except you can get a lot more bottles for cheaper.
what do you use to hold your airbrush when you need to set it down whilst painting? I find it tips when using the bottles or cup and can't find a suitable holder. thanks
I remember borrowing this airbrush from my dad back in the 90s it came with a plastic back in or some hard bakelite - at least that's what my memory remembers good little workhorse.
Glad to see the H yeah plastic bottles and not as good a quality stainless steel it is now a magnetic stainless but still works well mine is over 25 yrs old and still works good just like the day I bought it, should have bought 3 they are work horses.
Thank you for this great video, I've had one for a couple of years but have yet to use it as in the past I found my old air brush a pain to clean. i'll definitely try it out now after watching your video.
They call this the Workhorse for a reason, and I know some twit will wanna cry about their Iwata being better but for the work load this was made for it isn't. The fine tip for this will do Warhammer minis though being single action takes some 2 handed finesse but I would recommend a dual for small details, that said the H will not fail you for general purpose model painting even camo schemes. I have 4 of these now plus 2 side feed Paasche designs I've collected over the years and love them fully. I use my Patriot and Anthem brushes mostly these days but for large work I have my H's always nearby. Even though my Patriot can do eyes on mini's fine I break out the Iwata for that. Great video Rex!
I have a Paashe Talon top feed version, which also has a siphon feed version which I've been considering but the H-Series looks pretty decent, and is a bit more affordable too. I may have to consider that when/if I decide to get a siphon feed. I do mostly minis for D&D and the like, moreso than models so even priming I don't use but a few drops so still not sure a siphon feed is worth the investment for me. Thanks for another outstanding review/demo!
With out question the Paasche H model is the best single action airbrush ever developed. The perfect beginners airbrush for learning to thin paint and perfect soft blending as well as how to use masking and templates when the operators skill isn't ready for fine lines and fussy double action airbrushes. I have two in my fleet of too many airbrushes and still use them when I do not need high detail in what I am painting. I usually use the side cup as the jars hold a ton of paint and tend to be a bit heavy when filled.
I own 2, handle also fit the VL model. At one time metal handle was an upgrade. I loaded my handles with #9 lead bird shot so more balanced when a jar of paint is used. I like the wide feel for my big hands. I have a rare black body which I have a #5 needle, my silver one has a #3 needle. I learned with this airbrush. FYI: not all siphon feed airbrush bottles' nipple are the same angle. Badger has a different angle.
Another informative video!! Will the glass jars throw off the balance from the plastic ones? Doesn’t harbor freight have something similar, again thank you for sharing👍👍
I love the cleaning method ..i stop and cleaning the needle between each color and the paint jar it's a pain in the butt and a lot of cleaner 🤦♂️.. another great video 💯👊
I love your video on the Paasche H airbrush it is a very cool airbrush I just ordered it and can’t wait to try it out !!! I heard about the “H” series is the ultimate workhorse and is very reliable !!!
I found this model in the dumpster at my work didn't have notting but the airbrush and the bowl that hangs to the side. Somebody cleaned there garage and dumped at my work dumpster it was dirty I knew the name i use a iwata eclipse and a badger,iwata neo bottom feed.i had trouble learning with these but mastered them but if I had this one I found in the dumpster this one is built big and simple and good there's notting to really mess up its a Brute of a Airbrush good to have when you want to lay down some color.
Another great review Rex. When I first started airbrushing I got this and the VL-1. While good airbrushes, I didn't care for how fat they were behind the trigger. I just didn't find them comfortable. But, like everything else, to each their own. After now owning the Iwata Revolution, I was looking for a "spray can style" in an airbrush, and as you know, I now have the PS-290 with the fan cap which works fabulous. This style airbrush does have it's niche though. Thanks again and have a great day. P.S. Waiting for your acrylics line. 🙂
I really like using the H Series for applying Vallejo polyurethane clear coats because of the ease of cleaning. After using I first blow through some water and airbrush cleaner. I then remove the needle assembly and drop it in warm soapy water to soak for a bit followed by a hot water rinse. I don't have to worry about gumming up the inside of a double action airbrush. Ditto for primers. As a model railroader I could probably get away with an H series for everything, but I really like my double action H&S Ultra for most painting.
I have both the paasche H series and VLS series been using them both for over 20 year's have only had to rebuild them once most parts are cheap damn good reliable airbrushes for the price.
😂, just kidding. I have owned many Paasche ab’s over the years even their air compressors. Unfortunately, had to walk away from Paasche due to high cost of replacement parts and their lack of customer concerns. For this reason, I have found the Amazon airbrush kits to be as good or better than Paasche. I do expect flak from all the die hard American shoppers out there, but think about this, Paasche gets their compressor’s from China….. We all work hard for our money so let’s spend it wisely. Great video. Using the spoons is a great idea!
Great review. Multiple people I know use it, and I’m hesitant because I’m kind of stuck with the procon 289. Looks like it would be great for primer and clear coats.👍👍
Not sure if you have covered this somewhere else, but was wondering what quick connect system you are using. I finally got a Master airbrush and pulled out my old Paasche H that I bought over 15 years ago and never used. It is still new in box. Realized I need an adapter to convert it and would rather invest in a disconnect system since I also plan to purchase a Badger 105 in the coming months. Thanks for your informative and extremely helpful videos. Really appreciate the response as well, sure you are very busy and sorry if you have already mentioned it and I didn't find the answer.
This looks like the setup for me. Thanks. I use an epoxy paint and do camo. I can't mix paint and hardener in a gravity cup, I need a bottle. The little caps seem nice. I might go with plastic bottles and throw them away after a use. I'll check prices.
@@barbatosrex9473 thank you! Hoping it works well with my acrylic Createx paints. Also I love that orange enamel paint you showed in the video. I have a Deathstroke helmet I'm working on and that orange looks like it would be a perfect color for one half of the mask. I might need picking that up, but I'll have to watch videos on enamel paints because I don't know anything about them lol.
@@learnwithchuck2173 my personal paint line consists of mostly enamels. I'll be releasing 20 colors this week and more ext week. I'll post a video on them next week. Be on the look out for it. I might have the orange in this next batch, if not then next week. Enamels are the easy to work with. They thin with lacquer thinner
I have used the H for a very long time - it is perfect for the large scale working models I build (My Gneisenau in 1/100 scale is about 8 feet long). Easy to use, easy to clean it is a useful tool to have in your arsenal, and very affordable.
@@GenuineRage I built a workbench against the wall in my shop and put storage for that ship under it. A plastic frame with a thin plexiglass panel sits in front of her and gives dust protection. She is radio controlled and I take her out for a spin from time to time - the gun turrets work and she even has a stereo system.
A few thoughts and questions: I’m not sure you covered “canned air”, but the canister ALWAYS need to sit in a bucket of warm water to prevent icing. Before you airbrush these model parts are you cleaning them of mold release first? Great channel, I’ve bought a lot product based on your reviews 👍🏻
C'est mon premier aérographe avec lequel j'ai peint des avions 1/72 et 1/48 en entier. Ca ne pose jamais de problème et c'est facilement nettoyable. En plus il n'y a aucun risque de plier les aiguilles. J'en ai même acheté un second au cas où je perdrais le premier.
Geez, as I only spray cars, I was thinking of buying the new 2024 Ultra. But according to Don Yost, this seems to be very good at applying primer and base just fine, But enamels seem to be the best, which are quite smelly with the thinner and all.......thanks
Seems great for primers and clear coats and the enamels you did were a beautiful smooth and glossy finish. Is there likely to be any runs with such a volume of paint being delivered. That is one area I have trouble with, either getting graining or runs. Just have to keep practicing with my mixing and getting the right setting for paint flow. Thanks for showing this Rex.
Now you see why I moved to the GSI Creos 290 from the Paasche H. It's a great starter brush but once you get good at painting you realize you can make your job easier. Paint atomization and spray pattern. Less work with the Creos 290. But ill say I used this as a great starter. Moved to the Paasche action VL and then the GSI creos. I now have a 3 way splitter. I run GSI Creos .5mm for big parts. I run the Paasche VL double action .3mm for detail. Then run the paasche H on a .3 or .5 for clear coat
The H is a great workhorse. Thanks for the tip on the jars (UK suppliers do 'em with tip covers). Where did you get the Paasche H holder/stand please 🤔👍✌️🤞😊
I have bought a lot of stuff already but I am tempted to buy this set. I bought the patriot 105. And a compressor. I am thinking that this airbrush could paint stuff I 3D design that are bigger pieces that do not need intricate detail work. Just a better option than a hardware store spay can. The only spray cans I like is the Rust-oleum Artisan or something like that. Those have a better trigger by far. I am thinking this Airbrush will have a better spray than that product. Also, you are pretty limited by standard spray cans in colors. BTW: Anyone looking to buy a Patriot 105 don't buy on Amazon it is listed for $125us. I am returning mine and bought another one at SprayGunner with all three Needle sizes for $98.00us. This Airbrush set is on Amazon for $68. A little higher than $60 but not to bad of a price.
I just ordered an H. But I am struggling to locate those glass jars and caps. Master Airbrush, does it have a direct online store? There are hundreds of various types of similar one, however many indicate for duel action brushes only. The syphon tips are different angles and diameters. Any help here? Thanks Richard
Mr Barbatos while we speak about primers have you yet tried Revell's aqua primer or Revell's primer for their email colours? I think both of these primers are the same and they are alcohol based and I think it works great with X20a or Aqua color mix. Dont use lacquer thinner if you are going to try it because I learned the hard way.
First attempt with this has been a complete disaster. Sprayed some Mr Hobby surfaced successfully with my Iwata double action, and thought I would try the same mix in this. Wouldn’t spray at all. It was murder to clean as well. The Iwata is so much easier. Will try again another day, but can’t see the point.
@@barbatosrex9473 vivo has a fairly cheap one around $85-110 that had my eye for a bit but it had some shotty reviews. May be a look for a "beginner compressor" review though.
Mostly cause it was one of the things that drove me off from airbrushing to begin with over a decade ago, that cleaning method with a dedicated bottle of lacquer thinner/acetone should work with the Badger 350 line right? Due to lack of direct knowledge around me at the time and lack of good resources on youtube back then around 2009/2010, I found myself taking a half hour between color changes cleaning the entire brush out via disassembly/deep cleaning. If I may be honest, I found airbrushing at the time to be fairly aggravating and an absolute waste of time to do back then when starting out due to stuff that because I thought and was told that that was how it was supposed to work.
G'day m8.....as an expert in your opinion, does the H series use more paint over your gravity fed Badgers or Iwata for the same or better finish? Any insight is a bonus....Regards, a m8 downunder
Can I build/spray models with a mix of enamel vs. acrylic via different parts of the model build? I bought 70 acrylic paints... maybe I should've bought 70 enamels??? 🤷
The first air brush compressor I have is badger 80-2 and the 200 dollar harbor freight air brush and badger 150 air brush the reasone why I asked you to film a review video on the paasche d220r because no one has one running and someday if the badger compressor dies on me because I’m looking at that compressor and the iwata sprint jet to replace it someday
I'm just starting out and this looks like one to start with. What kind of compressor would you recommend? For mainly figure costumization and maybe statues.
They also have different versions of this line, even double action, try the AB for ultra fine details. I've been wanting to get back to airbrushing, unfortunately, all of my equipment was stolen and broken by a jealous ex
A little bit of out of topic question but how long does your airbrushing sessions last? I just got a spraybooth like yours and I was wondering if the fan can handle hours of spraying sessions since I usually paint hundreds of parts per session since I only get Perfect Grade kits from Bandai. Hope you'll answer :) Thanks.
As always you're the best! Will you do a full review of their Talon GF? I have own and I got so many probs with it... Piece of crap, just a bad one, need finetuning or something I'm doing wrong...
@LemurKrazy Happy for you. But can you tell me if there is a good (really) community about Paasche Airbrush, 'cos I really have some majors problems with it. (bubbles, clogging...) I would appreciate your feedback.
@LemurKrazy Thanks for your response, I know that acrylics can be treaky sometimes. But I think that my Talon has some sort of a problem with nozzle connection (Paasche sent me news ones) and I got bubbles in the cup even with water...
@LemurKrazy Yeap, you're right. I bought the .21mm combos too. I suspect leakage from aircap o'ring / nozzle. Because often the nozzle get stuck inside the aircap when I remove it. When I use some teflon tape on threads, the problem is almost gone. I will try some threads sealant or bee's wax...
I found my older paascheH, it has a plastic end not aluminum lol...what pressure were you using while painting? mine came with 2 glass bottles and 1 big triangle shaped jar...
On your bench next to the nail file is a cup of bearings. What were those? I remember you showed them in a video a long time ago to keep in the paint bottles. But I can’t remember what they were made of. I just remember they were not stainless steel. Thanks
Only certain acrylics. Many acrylics are solvent based, not water based. Tamiya, Mr Hobby Aqueous, AK Real Color and SMS are all solvent based acrylics and you can use lacquer thinner with those. Do not use lacquer thinner with Vallejo, Citadel and any other water based acrylic. Here's how you can tell which is which. Look for a Flame logo on the label. Flame means solvent and no flame means its water based
I had this exact airbrush way back when it first came out and I had nothing but problems with it, half the time I couldn't get the thing to work properly I think the biggest problem was that I relied upon canned air and this Airbrush needed more air pressure than what canned air could provide, plus the can always iced up reducing the pressure and further making the issue worse. eventually I got so disgusted with this model that I sold it for virtually nothing at a garage sale just to rid myself of it! If you decide to get this airbrush, it'll require more air pressure than other airbrushes would.
Definitely would have been better with a tank compressor. That was an issue I had as a kid with cheaper air brushes that turned me towards brushing kits back then.
what air pressure are you using. 25 to 30 psi maybe because it has a siphon feed so you need a high enough air flow to pull the paint out of the jar is this correct....
I bought my 'H' model way back in the '70's. I see they still have the same design. Why change something if it works.
Old dog -new tricks - I like the idea of a jar with thinners. I take mine apart to the last part and clean with acetone which takes up time between colors.
I have all three sizes of nozzles and they do cover a wide range of applications. Thanks for the great demonstration.
At the time I bought the airbrush, I also purchased the Paasche compressor. I quit using it since not having an accumulator tank to smooth out the air flow, it had a 'pulsing' condition which spoiled the spray pattern. Plus there was only one pressure although I could adjust that with the little jack screw under the finger lever.
Just getting into airbrushing. I've just bought this airbrush, can't wait to try it. This tutorial is so helpful for me. Thank you for taking the time to show all the important steps and tips! Will save this one to review again!
This is a great addition for anyone's hobby tool box. The H will lay enamels on Car bodies like nobody's business and when thinned correctly will produce a Mirror finish. Iwata's are great for the small details but for quick priming base coating and even large finish coat jobs the H will never let you down. Like Rex said basically a variable spray can with much better detail and smoother paint laying.
One of the easiest airbrushes to clean ( 3 parts ). Simplicity at its finest.
The Paasche H is a nice workhorse for heavy fluids. The Paasche company was around about the same time Orville and Wilbur made their first flight. Nice demo Barbatos!
What i love about paasche airbrushes is their reliability and simplicity. Ive used them for everything from model kits to commercial signmaking and car customization. You cant kill them unless youre really motivated to do so.
This airbrush was left to meby my Dad along with his collection of models. Never had the patience when I was young but have found a lot of joy in model building and continuing his work. I have bought extra sets of needles and tips. Some for spraying metal paints, one for enamels and one for acrylics. Makes changing fast and easy.
Just inherited my first airbrush and compressor. Glad you posted this good sir, thank you
Best in depth review of this popular kit.
You really tied up all the loose ends and made my selection much easier.
Thanks a ton my friend.
All of your links in the description are excellent.
I will make sure to use your links with my Amazon purchases 🤘
I just inherited this model and I had no idea how to use it. Glad you covered it. I will need to buy a different needle but should be a nice addition to my other airbrush. Thanks Rex!
I had one of these back in the 60's. They are remarkably rugged and work well for prime and base coats. It was my main brush through my early days of model railroading and never let me down.
I bought this airbrush last year and was nervous to use it for the first time but seeing this gives me a lot of confidence that I can use it effectively every time so thank you for posting this.
This is one hell of a work horse airbrush. It sprays really well. Great for clearcoats, primers and painting enamels/lacquers for car models, etc. If I am not mistaken I think the original design is from the late 30's. But like they say, if it ain't broke, why fix it.
After watching this, I'm going to break out my 25 year old Paasche and give it a workout. It served me well for a long time
and I'm happy that I never got rid of it. Using it again for priming is a great idea......I'm embarrassed I never thought of it.
Thanks for this great episode.
Don't forget a minimum air pressure of 30 psi
Thank you very much for the review, I absolutely love your channel because of the real world reviews and fantastic content. Thank you again and KEEP ME COMING. Everyone keep yourselves and love ones safe and healthy.
Hey there buddy, thanks for the great feedback. Many more videos to come that's for sure
CAN'T WAIT
I've had one of these for over 20 years. It's my go to airbrush. In fact it's all I use. I would highly recommend this to anyone starting out airbrushing. Like me you may not even bother with anything else.
I’m still new to airbrush but this was my first brush and I love it. I’ve used it for all sorts of stuff and it’s easy to use and clean up. Thanks for the test.
My brother first purchased this airbrush in 1972 at our local shop called “ The Hobby Shop” in Queens NY.It was the days of Humbrol paint if you were advanced or Testors in the jars. My brother who is always a much better model hthan me always got amazing results. After he would build he would give those models to me and sadly I destroyed everyone of them… he never really seem to mind though. I received his brush as a hand me down and it’s what I learned on. I could never get the same results that he did over the years -more my fault than the brush. At that time I really didn’t know how to thin paint like I do now. Through the years I wore that airbrush out and replaced it with another. I still have the receipt from the one my brother purchased.. that little piece of paper has a lot of sentimental value to me. When I brought my Iwata HP-CS it was a game changer for me. It’s great to see these still used as the great tools they are.Thanks for the review and memories!
Great story and memory . I have the same found memories of my dad teaching me the hobby, then when I started driving my buddy and I would travel all over New England searching hobby shops for models we've never seen. It was work back then way before the internet. He had to search out yellow pages in each state and look-up hobby shops
It truly is a workhorse. I use this specific airbrush and have two of them. I have one just for my enamel clears and the other strictly for my enamel paints. I also have an Iwata HP-CS for my base coat lacquer colors and a Grex Tritium for my fine work.
I've been using this airbrush for over 40 years, its rugged,easy to maintain,and extremely versitile
Really good a for single action air brush, brought one decades ago still going strong. Cheers
I really appreciate that you have all these videos. My brother concerned me the other day when he warmed me about excessive amounts of overspray. He used to airbrush HO scale train models and he said the room would be filled with overspray and fumes even with a spraybooth exhaust running. So I went into the basement and found his old airbrush just to see what exactly he was using. Turned out he was using a Paasche H0811, single action siphon feed, with Walmart craft department acrylics, in a basement with next to zero airflow with the exception of the spraybooth exhaust. So I came here to see if your test of a Paasche H model could shed anymore light on why he was getting so much overspray which I've never seen be an issue in any video as long as a spraybooth exhaust was running. But your video actually did the opposite, I can't see any particular reason outside of room conditions or specific usage that there would be so much. This airbrush, which is at least in the same family, I couldn't even find the H0811 on their website, actually looks really good. I don't know why, but going into this hobby I was led to believe that gravity-fed airbrushes were far better than siphon feed's. But this works fantastically it would seem, especially with the customizable needle, and the ability to hot swap pre-prepared paints like the Sparmax Flyer, except you can get a lot more bottles for cheaper.
First like! Still looking forward to those paint reviews though... 😁
what do you use to hold your airbrush when you need to set it down whilst painting? I find it tips when using the bottles or cup and can't find a suitable holder. thanks
It comes with a holder or you can use this one which works with several different brand airbrushes
amzn.to/3W0PpbA
Another great airbrush for general use. This Airbrush was my first airbrush, definitely been around a long time!
I may have to get this as my new airbrush. I hate how finicky other ABs can be. This one seems easy to maintain and clean. Thanks!
Fascinating! This might convince me to get a siphon style airbrush.
I was hesitant on moving on to airbrushes because of the cleaning and maintenance
I remember borrowing this airbrush from my dad back in the 90s it came with a plastic back in or some hard bakelite - at least that's what my memory remembers good little workhorse.
Glad to see the H yeah plastic bottles and not as good a quality stainless steel it is now a magnetic stainless but still works well mine is over 25 yrs old and still works good just like the day I bought it, should have bought 3 they are work horses.
Thank you for this great video, I've had one for a couple of years but have yet to use it as in the past I found my old air brush a pain to clean. i'll definitely try it out now after watching your video.
They call this the Workhorse for a reason, and I know some twit will wanna cry about their Iwata being better but for the work load this was made for it isn't. The fine tip for this will do Warhammer minis though being single action takes some 2 handed finesse but I would recommend a dual for small details, that said the H will not fail you for general purpose model painting even camo schemes. I have 4 of these now plus 2 side feed Paasche designs I've collected over the years and love them fully. I use my Patriot and Anthem brushes mostly these days but for large work I have my H's always nearby. Even though my Patriot can do eyes on mini's fine I break out the Iwata for that. Great video Rex!
I have a Paashe Talon top feed version, which also has a siphon feed version which I've been considering but the H-Series looks pretty decent, and is a bit more affordable too. I may have to consider that when/if I decide to get a siphon feed. I do mostly minis for D&D and the like, moreso than models so even priming I don't use but a few drops so still not sure a siphon feed is worth the investment for me.
Thanks for another outstanding review/demo!
Outstanding review. I have the brush and I use it for all final color on car model bodies!
With out question the Paasche H model is the best single action airbrush ever developed. The perfect beginners airbrush for learning to thin paint and perfect soft blending as well as how to use masking and templates when the operators skill isn't ready for fine lines and fussy double action airbrushes. I have two in my fleet of too many airbrushes and still use them when I do not need high detail in what I am painting. I usually use the side cup as the jars hold a ton of paint and tend to be a bit heavy when filled.
I own 2, handle also fit the VL model. At one time metal handle was an upgrade. I loaded my handles with #9 lead bird shot so more balanced when a jar of paint is used. I like the wide feel for my big hands. I have a rare black body which I have a #5 needle, my silver one has a #3 needle. I learned with this airbrush.
FYI: not all siphon feed airbrush bottles' nipple are the same angle. Badger has a different angle.
Most Badgers use the 60 degree angle but the Badger 350 uses this same 30 degree angle.
Another informative video!! Will the glass jars throw off the balance from the plastic ones? Doesn’t harbor freight have something similar, again thank you for sharing👍👍
No the glass jars were fine, no problems at all
I love the cleaning method ..i stop and cleaning the needle between each color and the paint jar it's a pain in the butt and a lot of cleaner 🤦♂️.. another great video 💯👊
Seems like it would be a good airbrush for painting 1/8 scale Lexan RC car bodies. Great video!!
Great video. This brush always reminds me of Don Eddy. You should check out his photorealistic work that he did with this brush.
Great information every time ...keep the great content coming. Happy New Year!
I love your video on the Paasche H airbrush it is a very cool airbrush I just ordered it and can’t wait to try it out !!! I heard about the “H” series is the ultimate workhorse and is very reliable !!!
I found this model in the dumpster at my work didn't have notting but the airbrush and the bowl that hangs to the side. Somebody cleaned there garage and dumped at my work dumpster it was dirty I knew the name i use a iwata eclipse and a badger,iwata neo bottom feed.i had trouble learning with these but mastered them but if I had this one I found in the dumpster this one is built big and simple and good there's notting to really mess up its a Brute of a Airbrush good to have when you want to lay down some color.
Another great review Rex. When I first started airbrushing I got this and the VL-1. While good airbrushes, I didn't care for how fat they were behind the trigger. I just didn't find them comfortable. But, like everything else, to each their own. After now owning the Iwata Revolution, I was looking for a "spray can style" in an airbrush, and as you know, I now have the PS-290 with the fan cap which works fabulous. This style airbrush does have it's niche though. Thanks again and have a great day. P.S. Waiting for your acrylics line. 🙂
I really like using the H Series for applying Vallejo polyurethane clear coats because of the ease of cleaning. After using I first blow through some water and airbrush cleaner. I then remove the needle assembly and drop it in warm soapy water to soak for a bit followed by a hot water rinse. I don't have to worry about gumming up the inside of a double action airbrush. Ditto for primers. As a model railroader I could probably get away with an H series for everything, but I really like my double action H&S Ultra for most painting.
I have both the paasche H series and VLS series been using them both for over 20 year's have only had to rebuild them once most parts are cheap damn good reliable airbrushes for the price.
😂, just kidding. I have owned many Paasche ab’s over the years even their air compressors. Unfortunately, had to walk away from Paasche due to high cost of replacement parts and their lack of customer concerns. For this reason, I have found the Amazon airbrush kits to be as good or better than Paasche. I do expect flak from all the die hard American shoppers out there, but think about this, Paasche gets their compressor’s from China….. We all work hard for our money so let’s spend it wisely. Great video. Using the spoons is a great idea!
Great review. Multiple people I know use it, and I’m hesitant because I’m kind of stuck with the procon 289. Looks like it would be great for primer and clear coats.👍👍
Great, informative video. Just getting back into using an airbrush and introduced my son to it.
I love this airbrush
Not sure if you have covered this somewhere else, but was wondering what quick connect system you are using. I finally got a Master airbrush and pulled out my old Paasche H that I bought over 15 years ago and never used. It is still new in box. Realized I need an adapter to convert it and would rather invest in a disconnect system since I also plan to purchase a Badger 105 in the coming months. Thanks for your informative and extremely helpful videos. Really appreciate the response as well, sure you are very busy and sorry if you have already mentioned it and I didn't find the answer.
This looks like the setup for me. Thanks.
I use an epoxy paint and do camo. I can't mix paint and hardener in a gravity cup, I need a bottle. The little caps seem nice. I might go with plastic bottles and throw them away after a use. I'll check prices.
Nice video! I picked this up since all the stuff I'm making and painting are pretty large.
This looks like it should make the job much easier.
It works really well. Be sure you go with at least 30 psi
@@barbatosrex9473 thank you!
Hoping it works well with my acrylic Createx paints.
Also I love that orange enamel paint you showed in the video.
I have a Deathstroke helmet I'm working on and that orange looks like it would be a perfect color for one half of the mask.
I might need picking that up, but I'll have to watch videos on enamel paints because I don't know anything about them lol.
@@learnwithchuck2173 my personal paint line consists of mostly enamels. I'll be releasing 20 colors this week and more ext week. I'll post a video on them next week. Be on the look out for it. I might have the orange in this next batch, if not then next week. Enamels are the easy to work with. They thin with lacquer thinner
Great video and very helpful! Thank you for posting!
I have used the H for a very long time - it is perfect for the large scale working models I build (My Gneisenau in 1/100 scale is about 8 feet long). Easy to use, easy to clean it is a useful tool to have in your arsenal, and very affordable.
holy MOLY that's a big model! where the heck do you display that?? 😂
@@GenuineRage I built a workbench against the wall in my shop and put storage for that ship under it. A plastic frame with a thin plexiglass panel sits in front of her and gives dust protection. She is radio controlled and I take her out for a spin from time to time - the gun turrets work and she even has a stereo system.
A few thoughts and questions: I’m not sure you covered “canned air”, but the canister ALWAYS need to sit in a bucket of warm water to prevent icing. Before you airbrush these model parts are you cleaning them of mold release first? Great channel, I’ve bought a lot product based on your reviews 👍🏻
Excellent demonstration.
I have a paasche h for Christmas and I use it for primer, createx wicked paints and KBS Diamond clear coat
C'est mon premier aérographe avec lequel j'ai peint des avions 1/72 et 1/48 en entier. Ca ne pose jamais de problème et c'est facilement nettoyable. En plus il n'y a aucun risque de plier les aiguilles. J'en ai même acheté un second au cas où je perdrais le premier.
Geez, as I only spray cars, I was thinking of buying the new 2024 Ultra. But according to Don Yost, this seems to be very good at applying primer and base just fine, But enamels seem to be the best, which are quite smelly with the thinner and all.......thanks
Seems great for primers and clear coats and the enamels you did were a beautiful smooth and glossy finish. Is there likely to be any runs with such a volume of paint being delivered. That is one area I have trouble with, either getting graining or runs. Just have to keep practicing with my mixing and getting the right setting for paint flow. Thanks for showing this Rex.
I haven't had any runs yet with this airbrush
Now you see why I moved to the GSI Creos 290 from the Paasche H. It's a great starter brush but once you get good at painting you realize you can make your job easier. Paint atomization and spray pattern. Less work with the Creos 290. But ill say I used this as a great starter. Moved to the Paasche action VL and then the GSI creos. I now have a 3 way splitter. I run GSI Creos .5mm for big parts. I run the Paasche VL double action .3mm for detail. Then run the paasche H on a .3 or .5 for clear coat
GSI airbrushes are great
The H is a great workhorse.
Thanks for the tip on the jars (UK suppliers do 'em with tip covers).
Where did you get the Paasche H holder/stand please 🤔👍✌️🤞😊
I have bought a lot of stuff already but I am tempted to buy this set. I bought the patriot 105. And a compressor. I am thinking that this airbrush could paint stuff I 3D design that are bigger pieces that do not need intricate detail work. Just a better option than a hardware store spay can. The only spray cans I like is the Rust-oleum Artisan or something like that. Those have a better trigger by far. I am thinking this Airbrush will have a better spray than that product. Also, you are pretty limited by standard spray cans in colors. BTW: Anyone looking to buy a Patriot 105 don't buy on Amazon it is listed for $125us. I am returning mine and bought another one at SprayGunner with all three Needle sizes for $98.00us. This Airbrush set is on Amazon for $68. A little higher than $60 but not to bad of a price.
Yet another great information video. I was wondering what PSI are you using in the video?
30 psi
I just ordered an H. But I am struggling to locate those glass jars and caps. Master Airbrush, does it have a direct online store? There are hundreds of various types of similar one, however many indicate for duel action brushes only. The syphon tips are different angles and diameters. Any help here? Thanks Richard
Mr Barbatos while we speak about primers have you yet tried Revell's aqua primer or Revell's primer for their email colours? I think both of these primers are the same and they are alcohol based and I think it works great with X20a or Aqua color mix. Dont use lacquer thinner if you are going to try it because I learned the hard way.
First attempt with this has been a complete disaster.
Sprayed some Mr Hobby surfaced successfully with my Iwata double action, and thought I would try the same mix in this. Wouldn’t spray at all.
It was murder to clean as well. The Iwata is so much easier.
Will try again another day, but can’t see the point.
Can you get a paasche d220r compressor and do a review on it and also a iwata sprint jet compressor to do a review video
I'm planning on a few compressor tests. I want to test the cheapest model on Amazon
@@barbatosrex9473 vivo has a fairly cheap one around $85-110 that had my eye for a bit but it had some shotty reviews. May be a look for a "beginner compressor" review though.
Mostly cause it was one of the things that drove me off from airbrushing to begin with over a decade ago, that cleaning method with a dedicated bottle of lacquer thinner/acetone should work with the Badger 350 line right? Due to lack of direct knowledge around me at the time and lack of good resources on youtube back then around 2009/2010, I found myself taking a half hour between color changes cleaning the entire brush out via disassembly/deep cleaning. If I may be honest, I found airbrushing at the time to be fairly aggravating and an absolute waste of time to do back then when starting out due to stuff that because I thought and was told that that was how it was supposed to work.
Seems best for larger scale models, or ones with flatter surface areas. Ships, tanks, cars, and aircraft. 💯
Great video I was thinking about getting a air brush like that and this makes me want to get one more.
Thanks for info
Looks like a good one to serve the purpose that it's made for
G'day m8.....as an expert in your opinion, does the H series use more paint over your gravity fed Badgers or Iwata for the same or better finish? Any insight is a bonus....Regards, a m8 downunder
Great info , one question, do you watch your videos. Just seems like every videos you do is like the 1st one you ever done.
Really nice review as always. How heavy is that thing to you? Does it have a real weighty feel
It's actually not that heavy. It does look like it would be
Can I build/spray models with a mix of enamel vs. acrylic via different parts of the model build? I bought 70 acrylic paints... maybe I should've bought 70 enamels??? 🤷
The first air brush compressor I have is badger 80-2 and the 200 dollar harbor freight air brush and badger 150 air brush the reasone why I asked you to film a review video on the paasche d220r because no one has one running and someday if the badger compressor dies on me because I’m looking at that compressor and the iwata sprint jet to replace it someday
I'm just starting out and this looks like one to start with. What kind of compressor would you recommend? For mainly figure costumization and maybe statues.
Thanks for the heads-up 🙂
Were was the air pressure set at. Pls
can't wait till your glow and the dark stuff i thinking if you did that yet and how many color are there for glow in the dark that's clear
It's coming this week
They also have different versions of this line, even double action, try the AB for ultra fine details. I've been wanting to get back to airbrushing, unfortunately, all of my equipment was stolen and broken by a jealous ex
Well that's not cool
A little bit of out of topic question but how long does your airbrushing sessions last? I just got a spraybooth like yours and I was wondering if the fan can handle hours of spraying sessions since I usually paint hundreds of parts per session since I only get Perfect Grade kits from Bandai. Hope you'll answer :) Thanks.
I'll go a couple hours no problem. Booth should be fine
@@barbatosrex9473 Good to know. Thanks!
Is it true that this won’t spray as smooth as internal mix AB?
Barbatos you have tested many Badger airbruses lately. But have you ever tried Ammo by migs air viper? Its an improved version of the badger patriot.
It's on the list, it's not cheap though
As always you're the best! Will you do a full review of their Talon GF? I have own and I got so many probs with it... Piece of crap, just a bad one, need finetuning or something I'm doing wrong...
From research it seems the Talon just isn't a good airbrush. Because of that I never looked into it.
@LemurKrazy Happy for you. But can you tell me if there is a good (really) community about Paasche Airbrush, 'cos I really have some majors problems with it. (bubbles, clogging...) I would appreciate your feedback.
@LemurKrazy Thanks for your response, I know that acrylics can be treaky sometimes. But I think that my Talon has some sort of a problem with nozzle connection (Paasche sent me news ones) and I got bubbles in the cup even with water...
@LemurKrazy Yeap, you're right. I bought the .21mm combos too. I suspect leakage from aircap o'ring / nozzle. Because often the nozzle get stuck inside the aircap when I remove it. When I use some teflon tape on threads, the problem is almost gone. I will try some threads sealant or bee's wax...
Fantastic video about an iconic workhorse! At how much psi you airbrushed?
30
Hi sir, can you tell me what is the white and green tool on your table ? is it a kind of air-changing ? can you tell me more please? Thanks Filippo
It's a Paint Mixer. Here's my video review of it
th-cam.com/video/IV5KcCHLVRY/w-d-xo.html
@@barbatosrex9473 Interesting, thanks a lot !
I found my older paascheH, it has a plastic end not aluminum lol...what pressure were you using while painting? mine came with 2 glass bottles and 1 big triangle shaped jar...
I found that 35psi works best for mine. At less that that the atomization isn't great, very speckley. But at 35 it smooths right out
On your bench next to the nail file is a cup of bearings. What were those? I remember you showed them in a video a long time ago to keep in the paint bottles. But I can’t remember what they were made of. I just remember they were not stainless steel. Thanks
I put those in paint jars to help with mixing them. They help big time when mixing with my paint shaker
@@barbatosrex9473 What are the made of?
@@nearzero1555 stainless steel
@@barbatosrex9473 cool thank you! I think that will help me out!
I gotta get one. The ability to set and forget is great
Great tutorial 😊
So you can thin Acrylics with lacquer thinner...or just the Tamiya Acrylic?
T.Y
Only certain acrylics. Many acrylics are solvent based, not water based. Tamiya, Mr Hobby Aqueous, AK Real Color and SMS are all solvent based acrylics and you can use lacquer thinner with those. Do not use lacquer thinner with Vallejo, Citadel and any other water based acrylic. Here's how you can tell which is which. Look for a Flame logo on the label. Flame means solvent and no flame means its water based
@@barbatosrex9473 awesome Thanks.
👌👌👌👌awesome product...sold....
I had this exact airbrush way back when it first came out and I had nothing but problems with it, half the time I couldn't get the thing to work properly I think the biggest problem was that I relied upon canned air and this Airbrush needed more air pressure than what canned air could provide, plus the can always iced up reducing the pressure and further making the issue worse. eventually I got so disgusted with this model that I sold it for virtually nothing at a garage sale just to rid myself of it! If you decide to get this airbrush, it'll require more air pressure than other airbrushes would.
I am no expert but the cans likely did not help. The pressure continues to decrease and there is no consistency from the start.
Definitely would have been better with a tank compressor. That was an issue I had as a kid with cheaper air brushes that turned me towards brushing kits back then.
These need a real compressor. It must be at a stable 30 psi
Yes sir, most are rated at a 40psi minimum
Lol can air
Can you get a master airbrush cold runner 2 and a badger 150 air brush and do a review video on it
I will look into it 👍
what psi did you use?
30 psi
what air pressure are you using. 25 to 30 psi maybe because it has a siphon feed so you need a high enough air flow to pull the paint out of the jar is this correct....
30psi
I've looked through your videos and I did not find a review on the paasche talon TG. Have you reviewed this airbrush?
I haven't. Couple of friends and subscribers do and their feedback is it's an awful airbrush. Quality control issues
@@barbatosrex9473 Thanks for your input I'll stear clear of that one.
It's a syphon feed as opposed to a gravity feed.