Question about the support box. Did you cut it at an angle to match the roof pitch? And I saw you screwing it in, did you build a 2x4 box to attach it to? Thanks for posting this video!
Another question...Have you had any issues with ice dams forming? We also have a vaulted ceiling and I'm nervous to install the wood stove as someone warned us that a wood stove's heat can cause ice dams on vaulted ceilings due to there not being an attic/increased insulation...
Hey there had a question on the exterior chimney pipe to interior stove pipe transition. Getting the same setup from Menards. I am confused as to how the transition occurs with double wall pipe inside the ceiling support box. Do I need a universal chimney adapter as well as a stove pipe adapter?
I used the cathedral ceiling support box, and it came with a clamp type collar that went around the first length of insulated chimney. You clamped and screwed it into the chimney pipe about 6" up. The edge of the collar is what hold the chimney up when you set it in the support box. A stove pipe adaptor, (separate purchase) is then attached to the chimney pipe hanging that 6" down on the inside of building. That's about the best I could describe it.
@@MIhere2 Ok- thanks! I just asked because on pg. 2 of those instructions it references #12 connecting with #18- the stove pipe adapter connecting to the chimney adapter. Maybe that's just for double wall flue pipe? One other question- any tips on how to find the ceiling rafters on a vaulted ceiling (no attic to get into)? First time, so I'm a little nervous trying to figure it out!
Bought the cathedral ceiling kit but didn’t come with roof jack, had to purchase flat ceiling kit to get roof jack, is this a common problem, now I have parts I can’t use! Your video was helpful thank you!
Ya gotta love the "Code Crew". Seems like there's always one on every youtube posting. Sometimes, all you can do is just smile and drive on. Have watched all off you work on this greenhouse ... and it's AMAZING in my book. Thanks for the glimpse behind your curtain.
There's no telling who some these commenters are, when they have no content or information on their channel. Some just like to throw attack bait, so they feel important, or they don't have anything to do. Would a normal person talk to you like this in person? But in some cases, they can be scammer trying to instill fear, so they can get someone to exchange email contact information with them. Once they get a person's email, they can email them (using some reputable name source) that their computer has hacked, and to call a certain telephone number to protect banking information. -Had to deal with something like that this summer. You have to be careful with all these. Thanks for watching and commenting!
If you mean the chimney cap; from Menards. Not my favorite store, but I got all the chimney parts from there. You can look at their website if you needed to order it. Hope that helps.
You must have a little bit of a warmer climate where you're at. I think it was in 1977 where one time we didn't have snow at Christmas, (got some later). And sometimes -40˚F then.
The instructions for this chimney I put in, says it quite clearly on page 16. It's a common sense thing to do. You just need to use high temp insulation.
any part numbers for the extension below the box,i didnt see those at lowes ,i see theres a wider strap keeps it from falling thru when placing the first section from roof hole ..down into black box,im presuming twist lock,...i saw you twist and clamp, the smoke pipe to chimney pipe,...is that 6 in section double wall?...thanks
At about 3:40 in this video you can see me painting the part of the chimney the sticks down through the cathedral support box. It's actually part of the first section of the chimney that sticks down. There's a 'support band' that is screwed to the first section of chimney at the desired spot. The 'support band' came with the cathedral support box. Then a stove pipe adaptor is connect to that first chimney section, from below. Hope that helps.
@@MIhere2 thank you that does help,is the stove pipe adapter double wall ,the one i got from lowes was 45 bucks and twist locks into the section,ive had a big problem bought 2 ht double wall sections that twist lock second hand(its selkirk),...but is different diameter from accessories sold ,by about 1/4 inch the twist licks werent the same,...so long story short ,the stuff i bought originally came from lowes,and us called suoer vent,...by selkirk? but uts not metalbestos/selkirk,....even though the lable on them doesnt say super vent ,they say selkirk....which really had me suoer confused,been on the phone w selkirk, texting photos, our local woodstove store has a dripless smoke adapter im returning ,sibce it and the square finished support box,neither would work with super vent from lowes,....lowes doesnt offers a smokeless adapter, or the flat fsp(finished support pack),as selkirk metalbestos,does ,...so i have to go a similar route like your big square box,i was wondering if you used the rsk roof support brackets,for more support ....not the rods ...the adapter plates that screws to the double wall stainless ht section ,and adjust for pitch,ill be less than 5 ft also,thanks so much for the video, i ll check back as i progress,...ours us going on a back patio, low pitch, no attic,just 2x6 rafters, so theres not much depth ,but i want it supported well for wind ,ill be adding some framing for my support bix ,and affix the brackets if needed,maybe even those rods ,but like your metal ceiling i wanted to be sure to keep away the combustable underside ,not sure of the length of penetration inside,there isnt insulation, other than whats in the double wall,so 2 inches,i didnt plan on any double wall ,just single stove pipe meeting up to the double stainless sections of super vent ,i heard you say in video your ceiling needed like so many inches was it 9 or? i should clarify selkirk ultra temp ,and sure temp are NOT compatible with lowes SUPERVENT FROM LOWES ,all are ul 103 2100° rated,the twist locks are different by 1/4 inch,and WONT lock together
@@sonofthunder. All the parts I got were from Menards. No Lowes anywhere around here. The stove pipe adaptor was for either single or double wall, $38. I didn't use any other support on the roof but the chimney flashing and storm collar. The installation instructions has charts for clearances, and that's what you need to go by.
@@MIhere2 thank you very much ,im slowly getting there,and following the charts,i spoke to guy at selkirks,and the roof support kit brackets aren't required,im just thinking extra stability,they dont sell the support band indivudually which is weird,you have to buy the kit, there isnt even a part number for just the band,this stuff makes me crazy,i do like the twist lock, cap,...lowes kit fir 6 in was 120.00 and i have my iwn supervent sections,not sure yet if ill add roof guy support rods,only needed over 5 ft high,nw arkansas,.. where you at we dont have menards,just tractor supply,i find some things online too,...thanks for getting back
@@MIhere2 it's all in the Selkirk manual. They do allow the use of their insulation in the support box. They don't say you can fill it with perlite so you can't. Code says ul listed appliances and chimney systems need to be installed to manufacturers specs you didn't do that so you don't comply with code
@@benholler1389 Because you say it doesn't mention it, isn't evidence that you can't. The UL is for the chimney itself. Perlite is actually used to insulate chimney liners to get a UL approval. They may not mention ceramic wool from Home Depot either, because that's not their brand. A firecode or building code just wouldn't want you to use an organic and low temp insulation. No worries at all here.
@@MIhere2 I am not just saying it doesn't mention it. It doesn't I read the manual it's not there. The ul listing is for the whole system including the support box and how it's all installed. You can't just make it up as you go. And no perlite is not used with chimney liners to meet ul listing. Perlite or vermiculite mixed with cement into a listed insulation mix is used around stainless liners. Straight perlite wouldn't meet code there either. There is no ul listing for clay tiles with or without insulation. They can absolutely be used and insulation is a good idea but there is nothing in the codes about it
I honestly don't see any safety issue with it. But it absolutely does not meet code. If any code inspector noticed it and knew what they were doing it would fail. If I was called to do a real estate inspection I would absolutely fail it. I am just trying to save anyone watching this a big potential headache
Question about the support box. Did you cut it at an angle to match the roof pitch? And I saw you screwing it in, did you build a 2x4 box to attach it to? Thanks for posting this video!
I did have to cut the support box to match the roof, and I did add some 2x4's between the rafters to screw it to.
Another question...Have you had any issues with ice dams forming? We also have a vaulted ceiling and I'm nervous to install the wood stove as someone warned us that a wood stove's heat can cause ice dams on vaulted ceilings due to there not being an attic/increased insulation...
very nice video, just dont have the camera behind you while doing work. cant see what you're doing.
Thanks for the tip
Hey there had a question on the exterior chimney pipe to interior stove pipe transition. Getting the same setup from Menards. I am confused as to how the transition occurs with double wall pipe inside the ceiling support box. Do I need a universal chimney adapter as well as a stove pipe adapter?
I used the cathedral ceiling support box, and it came with a clamp type collar that went around the first length of insulated chimney. You clamped and screwed it into the chimney pipe about 6" up. The edge of the collar is what hold the chimney up when you set it in the support box. A stove pipe adaptor, (separate purchase) is then attached to the chimney pipe hanging that 6" down on the inside of building. That's about the best I could describe it.
@@MIhere2 Ok- thanks! I just asked because on pg. 2 of those instructions it references #12 connecting with #18- the stove pipe adapter connecting to the chimney adapter. Maybe that's just for double wall flue pipe? One other question- any tips on how to find the ceiling rafters on a vaulted ceiling (no attic to get into)? First time, so I'm a little nervous trying to figure it out!
Wow! Nice job! I've done this exact job on two different houses - years ago - needed a refresh as I'm getting ready to do it again. Thank you!!!!!
Glad it was helpful!
n minnestoa got it...i subscribed,
Bought the cathedral ceiling kit but didn’t come with roof jack, had to purchase flat ceiling kit to get roof jack, is this a common problem, now I have parts I can’t use! Your video was helpful thank you!
Glad the video was helpful to you! Maybe you can find use for those extra parts on something else...
HI there whats the part number for the reducer your holding @0:38. Thats the piece i still need thank you!
I think this is the part you're referring to:
"Supervent® 6" ID Class A Double Wall Stove Pipe Adapter
Model Number: JSC6ASE Menards ® SKU: 6371461"
@@MIhere2 Thank you!
Ya gotta love the "Code Crew". Seems like there's always one on every youtube posting. Sometimes, all you can do is just smile and drive on. Have watched all off you work on this greenhouse ... and it's AMAZING in my book. Thanks for the glimpse behind your curtain.
There's no telling who some these commenters are, when they have no content or information on their channel. Some just like to throw attack bait, so they feel important, or they don't have anything to do. Would a normal person talk to you like this in person?
But in some cases, they can be scammer trying to instill fear, so they can get someone to exchange email contact information with them. Once they get a person's email, they can email them (using some reputable name source) that their computer has hacked, and to call a certain telephone number to protect banking information. -Had to deal with something like that this summer. You have to be careful with all these.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
THIS is the video I’ve been searching for. Thank you much, sir!
Glad it was helpful!
Hello sir. Where in the world did you find the spark arrestor that twists on the pipe.... Can't find it anywhere
If you mean the chimney cap; from Menards. Not my favorite store, but I got all the chimney parts from there. You can look at their website if you needed to order it. Hope that helps.
Great video! I'm getting ready to do my wood stove chimney, little nervous about cutting hole in roof.
You can do it! Thanks.
We got our first snow, and it's a doozy. Pretty earl for us, usually green at x-mas. Great stuff thank you. Cheers.
You must have a little bit of a warmer climate where you're at. I think it was in 1977 where one time we didn't have snow at Christmas, (got some later). And sometimes -40˚F then.
I'm going to be doing the same install in my garage this weekend. Thanks for posting the video!
No problem 👍. Thanks for watching!
Very helpful video. Doing this now on my house with a similar setup with the exception of going through an attic space. You made it look easy!
Glad it was helpful!
Was very helpful thanks! Instructions says your not suppose to have any insulation in box!
The instructions for this chimney I put in, says it quite clearly on page 16. It's a common sense thing to do. You just need to use high temp insulation.
any part numbers for the extension below the box,i didnt see those at lowes ,i see theres a wider strap keeps it from falling thru when placing the first section from roof hole ..down into black box,im presuming twist lock,...i saw you twist and clamp, the smoke pipe to chimney pipe,...is that 6 in section double wall?...thanks
At about 3:40 in this video you can see me painting the part of the chimney the sticks down through the cathedral support box. It's actually part of the first section of the chimney that sticks down. There's a 'support band' that is screwed to the first section of chimney at the desired spot. The 'support band' came with the cathedral support box. Then a stove pipe adaptor is connect to that first chimney section, from below. Hope that helps.
@@MIhere2 thank you that does help,is the stove pipe adapter double wall ,the one i got from lowes was 45 bucks and twist locks into the section,ive had a big problem bought 2 ht double wall sections that twist lock second hand(its selkirk),...but is different diameter from accessories sold ,by about 1/4 inch the twist licks werent the same,...so long story short ,the stuff i bought originally came from lowes,and us called suoer vent,...by selkirk? but uts not metalbestos/selkirk,....even though the lable on them doesnt say super vent ,they say selkirk....which really had me suoer confused,been on the phone w selkirk, texting photos, our local woodstove store has a dripless smoke adapter im returning ,sibce it and the square finished support box,neither would work with super vent from lowes,....lowes doesnt offers a smokeless adapter, or the flat fsp(finished support pack),as selkirk metalbestos,does ,...so i have to go a similar route like your big square box,i was wondering if you used the rsk roof support brackets,for more support ....not the rods ...the adapter plates that screws to the double wall stainless ht section ,and adjust for pitch,ill be less than 5 ft also,thanks so much for the video, i ll check back as i progress,...ours us going on a back patio, low pitch, no attic,just 2x6 rafters, so theres not much depth ,but i want it supported well for wind ,ill be adding some framing for my support bix ,and affix the brackets if needed,maybe even those rods ,but like your metal ceiling i wanted to be sure to keep away the combustable underside ,not sure of the length of penetration inside,there isnt insulation, other than whats in the double wall,so 2 inches,i didnt plan on any double wall ,just single stove pipe meeting up to the double stainless sections of super vent ,i heard you say in video your ceiling needed like so many inches was it 9 or? i should clarify selkirk ultra temp ,and sure temp are NOT compatible with lowes SUPERVENT FROM LOWES ,all are ul 103 2100° rated,the twist locks are different by 1/4 inch,and WONT lock together
@@sonofthunder. All the parts I got were from Menards. No Lowes anywhere around here. The stove pipe adaptor was for either single or double wall, $38. I didn't use any other support on the roof but the chimney flashing and storm collar. The installation instructions has charts for clearances, and that's what you need to go by.
@@MIhere2 thank you very much ,im slowly getting there,and following the charts,i spoke to guy at selkirks,and the roof support kit brackets aren't required,im just thinking extra stability,they dont sell the support band indivudually which is weird,you have to buy the kit, there isnt even a part number for just the band,this stuff makes me crazy,i do like the twist lock, cap,...lowes kit fir 6 in was 120.00 and i have my iwn supervent sections,not sure yet if ill add roof guy support rods,only needed over 5 ft high,nw arkansas,.. where you at we dont have menards,just tractor supply,i find some things online too,...thanks for getting back
best dIY video ever Thankyou
Wow, thanks!
Perlite is not approved by the manufacturer for that application. Which means your install isn't code compliant
Please show evidence where it is not allowed. And who's code, with evidence.
@@MIhere2 it's all in the Selkirk manual. They do allow the use of their insulation in the support box. They don't say you can fill it with perlite so you can't.
Code says ul listed appliances and chimney systems need to be installed to manufacturers specs you didn't do that so you don't comply with code
@@benholler1389 Because you say it doesn't mention it, isn't evidence that you can't. The UL is for the chimney itself. Perlite is actually used to insulate chimney liners to get a UL approval. They may not mention ceramic wool from Home Depot either, because that's not their brand.
A firecode or building code just wouldn't want you to use an organic and low temp insulation.
No worries at all here.
@@MIhere2 I am not just saying it doesn't mention it. It doesn't I read the manual it's not there. The ul listing is for the whole system including the support box and how it's all installed. You can't just make it up as you go.
And no perlite is not used with chimney liners to meet ul listing. Perlite or vermiculite mixed with cement into a listed insulation mix is used around stainless liners. Straight perlite wouldn't meet code there either. There is no ul listing for clay tiles with or without insulation. They can absolutely be used and insulation is a good idea but there is nothing in the codes about it
I honestly don't see any safety issue with it. But it absolutely does not meet code. If any code inspector noticed it and knew what they were doing it would fail. If I was called to do a real estate inspection I would absolutely fail it. I am just trying to save anyone watching this a big potential headache