Your method the right method. I support this method because it allows for beginners to attempt the process on a table top style railroad. Since if it were a table top it would make doing anything to the sub-roadbed or bench work unattemptable. . I am tight for space therefore I choose to model in the disgusting 4x8 space allotted. I have done Spr Elev on both HO and N, I on the other hand utilize foam track bed on top of the pink-blue-yellow type wall insulation. Therefore I attach the elevation material directly to the track incrementally. 2 ties at a time skipping 1.
NICE methods and pointers, those curve radius templates are sweet too! Great uniformity throughout the curves. CA really reacts and sets up quickly on materials such as lighter/softer plastics and styrene. My fingers were tingling at 9:40-45 cause man I've been there (moment of silence for lost skin). Us modelers would make excellent criminals if we cared to because we don't have any fingerprints left due to stuff like this!
My thought as well except I use 2mm weed whacker line or mono filament fish line. 6 inches divided by 87 is 1.8mm so I like you place the line outside of the outside track. A touch of hot glue does the trick. Thanks for sharing.
Lovely work sir!, like yourself, I solder all my curves and leave gaps on the straights. Like the thick bench work as well, I actually s/elevated my benchwork, but it's extra work, I'll try your method on some new work! Cheers Gregg
Great video and nice. I use percision scale track and they already come super elevated so it makes it really easy to use but what I would say is in my previous layout I used atlas flex track and yes you can use this with super elevation works out just fine. Great video jeep it up
So is your plastic piece 1.5mm thick or 2mm thick or dose it not matter???? I really like your idea it's so much easier than another way I was showed to elevate the outside track.... Thanks for sharing...
Nice video...I have problems bending the ME flex track smoothly on a curve. The weathered is very hard to bend...Not sure about un-weathered code 83...Thanks...
+Uptown Photography Sorry for the response delay! Micro engineering track is very hard to bend regardless, but the weathered is even tougher yes. Personally I cannot use it since I build all my turnouts (using Fast Tracks tools) There is no way to solder/connect weathered track. It must be bare. There used to be a company called MLR manufacturing that had what the called a solder tool" that was essentially a hard plastic track gauge that was useful also to "prebend" M.E. flex track, but I only show some HoN3 and N scale tools left (on walthers site anyways) and I wonder if they are even in business anymore. I had used my RibbonRail track radius gauges to do the same job, but as I mentioned below I learned to just use my thumb (as leverage) and carefully slowly shape the track while free in my hands from the sides of the ties to a roughed in radius BEFORE using the radius tools (as opposed to what I was doing at first was to use the tools to force bend it from straight) as the fine tie spike detail on M.E. track I mentioned in the video will get knocked off by the radius tools if your not careful and/or put too much force on it!
+SliFallen Thanks for the info. I may already have a MLR Track Gauge that you speak of. I will have to check my workbench, but it is a medium gray color plastic square track gauge with rounded cutouts where you would solder the rail joiners. I do have some ribbon rail radius gauges also as I used to hand lay track years ago...I will check it out! Thanks!...Philip
The transition is at the point between straight and curve on the straight section, about 5-6 inches long. I did not put easements on this layout (a situation I will rectify next time) but that's where I put it here. By sanding down "feathering" from the full height down to just a thin part.
I like this method a lot. With a curved double track mainline, would you superelevate both tracks the same amount or would you pare down the superelevation on the inner track?
I like the look of superelevated curved double track mainline where the inside tracks are actually a higher on the roadbed than the outside tracks. You see this quite a bit - esp on heavily ballasted modern double track mainline. It is like there is a double height roadbed with the inside being higher than the outside. I often wonder why they do it like that, but I can say the look of it is agreeable to me esp on long curves.
As I mentioned in the video, you are already using quite a bit of C.A. superglue to brush along the strip. The fumes are quite strong. Applying to the cork would require more glue with a greater opportunity to miss where it needs to go not to mention having the glue wick into the T pins (since they will have to be the guide for the "invisible line" of the strip that you brush along) gluing them to the cork and have the cork rip out divots when you try to remove them. I know that the camera angle was bad, and I am sorry for that, but the strip is not as difficult to handle once "wetted" than it looks. By drawing the brush along the length it leaves a thin bead on it that dries quickly once placed on the cork as you saw in the video.
99.8% looks, Joe. For superelevation to really help with keeping the models on the track, their scale speeds would be bullet train (or faster) speeds. :-) But it really helps the look and realism and photographs very well also.
+chrsmcwtrs So sorry for the terrible delayin replying!! For some reason I was not being notified of replies! The company is called "RibbonRail" and is available from Walthers (and others) BE CAREFUL HOWEVER! I used them to help bend my rail, and though Micro Engineering has nice (and small) tie spike detail, it is also very easy to knock off the spikes of you slide track gauges back and forth too much, especially with downward pressure while doing it. I discovered later it's better to manually carefully bend the track to approximate shape radius then use the tools instead of trying to force it from straight with the tool.
Code 83 Micro Engineering. As I said in the video, Atlas flex track wont work well here as it is much more flexible. (Micro Engineering flex track stays put when you bend it) It's possible, but will be much more difficult unfortunately.
Yes, that is correct. You only sand (feather) the plastic strip down to smooth the transition between the straight flat track into the superelevated curve. The cork remains "stock".
Your method the right method. I support this method because it allows for beginners to attempt the process on a table top style railroad. Since if it were a table top it would make doing anything to the sub-roadbed or bench work unattemptable. . I am tight for space therefore I choose to model in the disgusting 4x8 space allotted. I have done Spr Elev on both HO and N, I on the other hand utilize foam track bed on top of the pink-blue-yellow type wall insulation. Therefore I attach the elevation material directly to the track incrementally. 2 ties at a time skipping 1.
🇧🇷🚂 Ótima trabalho, obrigado por compartilhar!!
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
NICE methods and pointers, those curve radius templates are sweet too! Great uniformity throughout the curves. CA really reacts and sets up quickly on materials such as lighter/softer plastics and styrene. My fingers were tingling at 9:40-45 cause man I've been there (moment of silence for lost skin). Us modelers would make excellent criminals if we cared to because we don't have any fingerprints left due to stuff like this!
Fantastic idea with the pins. Im just starting to lay track down and I like your idea.
You are doing a excellent job, I have a 32 and 30 inch outside curve that I plan to super elevate , not sure about inside curves, 28/30
Cool..great job. .thanks for sharing and keep up the great work. .
PittsburghIndustrialRailroad Your very welcome. And thank you!
My thought as well except I use 2mm weed whacker line or mono filament fish line. 6 inches divided by 87 is 1.8mm so I like you place the line outside of the outside track. A touch of hot glue does the trick. Thanks for sharing.
Great ideas here
Lovely work sir!, like yourself, I solder all my curves and leave gaps on the straights. Like the thick bench work as well, I actually s/elevated my benchwork, but it's extra work, I'll try your method on some new work!
Cheers Gregg
Great video and nice. I use percision scale track and they already come super elevated so it makes it really easy to use but what I would say is in my previous layout I used atlas flex track and yes you can use this with super elevation works out just fine. Great video jeep it up
They are made by a company called "RibbonRail" and are available from Walthers or many other online model railroading retailers.
So is your plastic piece 1.5mm thick or 2mm thick or dose it not matter???? I really like your idea it's so much easier than another way I was showed to elevate the outside track.... Thanks for sharing...
Hardcore man, hardcore. lol j/k
Has anybody tried adding the elevating strips under the roadbed instead of under the ties/rails?
Nice video...I have problems bending the ME flex track smoothly on a curve. The weathered is very hard to bend...Not sure about un-weathered code 83...Thanks...
+Uptown Photography Sorry for the response delay! Micro engineering track is very hard to bend regardless, but the weathered is even tougher yes. Personally I cannot use it since I build all my turnouts (using Fast Tracks tools) There is no way to solder/connect weathered track. It must be bare. There used to be a company called MLR manufacturing that had what the called a solder tool" that was essentially a hard plastic track gauge that was useful also to "prebend" M.E. flex track, but I only show some HoN3 and N scale tools left (on walthers site anyways) and I wonder if they are even in business anymore. I had used my RibbonRail track radius gauges to do the same job, but as I mentioned below I learned to just use my thumb (as leverage) and carefully slowly shape the track while free in my hands from the sides of the ties to a roughed in radius BEFORE using the radius tools (as opposed to what I was doing at first was to use the tools to force bend it from straight) as the fine tie spike detail on M.E. track I mentioned in the video will get knocked off by the radius tools if your not careful and/or put too much force on it!
+SliFallen Thanks for the info. I may already have a MLR Track Gauge that you speak of. I will have to check my workbench, but it is a medium gray color plastic square track gauge with rounded cutouts where you would solder the rail joiners. I do have some ribbon rail radius gauges also as I used to hand lay track years ago...I will check it out! Thanks!...Philip
slifallen... you did respond back in April.... lol
+chrsmcwtrs Yep. Saw that after I posted again. Better twice than never, heh.
Where is the transition to reach the height or are you going directly to the elevated height.
The transition is at the point between straight and curve on the straight section, about 5-6 inches long. I did not put easements on this layout (a situation I will rectify next time) but that's where I put it here. By sanding down "feathering" from the full height down to just a thin part.
Thanks, good info here. How many Jigsaw blades did you need to cut that ply @5:50, seriously some of the worst carpentry I have seen lol
I like this method a lot. With a curved double track mainline, would you superelevate both tracks the same amount or would you pare down the superelevation on the inner track?
I like the look of superelevated curved double track mainline where the inside tracks are actually a higher on the roadbed than the outside tracks. You see this quite a bit - esp on heavily ballasted modern double track mainline. It is like there is a double height roadbed with the inside being higher than the outside.
I often wonder why they do it like that, but I can say the look of it is agreeable to me esp on long curves.
It would much easier to apply the glue to the road bed.
As I mentioned in the video, you are already using quite a bit of C.A. superglue to brush along the strip. The fumes are quite strong. Applying to the cork would require more glue with a greater opportunity to miss where it needs to go not to mention having the glue wick into the T pins (since they will have to be the guide for the "invisible line" of the strip that you brush along) gluing them to the cork and have the cork rip out divots when you try to remove them. I know that the camera angle was bad, and I am sorry for that, but the strip is not as difficult to handle once "wetted" than it looks. By drawing the brush along the length it leaves a thin bead on it that dries quickly once placed on the cork as you saw in the video.
Is this done for looks or for better speed in the curve or both? I am new to this hobby.
99.8% looks, Joe. For superelevation to really help with keeping the models on the track, their scale speeds would be bullet train (or faster) speeds. :-) But it really helps the look and realism and photographs very well also.
i see here in the video that you have some gauges to line up the curves at about 58 seconds... where can i get a set of these????
+chrsmcwtrs So sorry for the terrible delayin replying!! For some reason I was not being notified of replies! The company is called "RibbonRail" and is available from Walthers (and others) BE CAREFUL HOWEVER! I used them to help bend my rail, and though Micro Engineering has nice (and small) tie spike detail, it is also very easy to knock off the spikes of you slide track gauges back and forth too much, especially with downward pressure while doing it. I discovered later it's better to manually carefully bend the track to approximate shape radius then use the tools instead of trying to force it from straight with the tool.
I'm struggling with my phone....what are the track holder pins called??
"T" (Tee) pins.
@@SliFallen thank you!
What kind of track is that I have code 100 atlas I believe dose not want to fit right
Code 83 Micro Engineering. As I said in the video, Atlas flex track wont work well here as it is much more flexible. (Micro Engineering flex track stays put when you bend it) It's possible, but will be much more difficult unfortunately.
So sanding the cork down is not required??
Yes, that is correct. You only sand (feather) the plastic strip down to smooth the transition between the straight flat track into the superelevated curve. The cork remains "stock".
bla bla ......bla bla ......bla bla !!!!!!