When adjusting suspension, you must drive the vehicle in between adjustments. This will allow the suspension to settle and re-adjust to the new positions for the adjusted suspension.
Good advice. Also the Front key bolts are adjusted different to compensate for the weight of a full tank of fuel, a driver, and a transfer case and front driveline. Instead of measuring the bolts I usually measure to the fenders. I usually use a floor Jack and after each adjustment I drop the truck fast to actively let the suspension bounce and relax. Rolling a few feet back and forth is even better but I don't usually bother to do that.
For leveling, I would suggest something like the Cognito 2 upper A-arm kits. This helps properly realign the front end after raising the keys or adding re-clocked keys.
It seems like putting airbags in with a pump and a self levelling system would be easier. At least you don’t sacrifice your right quality when there’s no weight on the truck
I love that hoist as much as you do Josh. Makes filming easier for you, and more detail for us. Multiple content with project updates are always welcomed. Thank you.
Cold weather be careful with that spring add on when your pulling the camper. We used something like that on salt trucks and snap springs. What they call on the boxes we open were called load damper
On the DUMP bed, for the FUEL fill lines. Just a idea, go look at the flat bed/ stake bed new trucks. It shows how the fuel fill lines are run, for dump beds. Maybe give you some ideas. Thank you for video.
Remember Adjust the front end like that you have to get re Aligned and it 100% changes the way it rides. On another note check your front axle angle and set them as level as possible for best ride and 4x4 steering. The torsion bars are never the same you have to measure front both sides never go by the bolt length one torsion bar may be warn out more. After each adjustment even with new Helper springs you gotta go drive it the measure it all out again and do adjustment, after all is done go get alignment. It's alot of work and can take a full day doing this, if all else fails the rear springs could have been over loaded at one times and need to be replaced these trucks get overloaded often without you even knowing.
You asked for feedback. Actually using the weight distribution bars on your trailer load equalization hitch would be a more suitable towing solution or should at least be mentioned within the context of the video. If the truck is still squatting with them Installed then there is the option to buy heavier bars for the hitch appropriately sized for the tongue weight of the trailer. Suspension mods can be helpful too, but first things first.
I just bought a 23 l5p Chevy. Has 1800 miles I put a 3in lift on it and when I went to remove the torsion keys I measured the bolts first. Left side was a 1 3/16. Right side was 1 3/4. Very surprised the factory didn’t get it closer then that. Needless to say I have them pretty close now
Kind of unrelated to those but on my old Lbz, I put some smaller kind of u bolts on the front side of the axle on the leafs. They help with axle wrap and chatter especially with boost launches. I heard about it from guys that run them on their drag car setups. My Lbz wasn’t pushing much for horse but even on a stock setup they help a lot with drivability and keeping the leaf stack solid. Super cheap way to help out the stack and keeping it from bouncing around. Wondering if you’ve ever heard of the same thing or not. Lmk!
I just picked up a 2018 Sierra 2500 duramax. Same exact thing. My front passenger side is about and inch lower than the front drivers side. Going out tomorrow to check the torsion key bolts to see if that is the issue. Thanks for the vid!
I know you are up north, but surprising how much rust is under such a new truck. I’m down in Georgia & my 2007 GMC Duramax has almost zero rust underneath. And I’m in process of doing airbags on mine in very near future.
Running the same spring add on! Pull a 36’ Race car trailer, ride improved and helped w/ squat w/o trailer it raised ass end about a inch! (I can live with it for trailering)
The adjustability is the reason people go with airbags, a set spring is just gonna be what it is. the tighter you go the higher it will sit, and the stiffer it will be hence why a majority who are really serious about their level go with the adjustability of the airbags
Install a rough country leveling kit so that you correct the ride height. And just to answer your curiosity I have a 2016 Chevrolet crew 5.3 L Z71 midnight Edition with the midnight kit added. Had a new 2014 Pearl High Country edition with the High Country kit till it was sacrificed to save my daughter and myself from a drunk driver who crossed over the medium at 45 miles an hour.
I don't know about price, but you should look for a 2nd gen door in Wyoming. We are very dry and don't have too many issues with rust. Many people drive older body style trucks here.
Lb7 with a lbz front clip 7-9 inch zone lift with 37 inch trail grapps on 20x10 XDs it’s got Efi live with dsp 5 switch aem cold air and 5 inch exhaust full kryptonite front end with bilstein 5100’s and full Rockford fosgate audio including all the components and subs
Oh and 100 over injectors and I really need a fass lift pump or an air dog or something cause I can’t even run it in tune five because the factory cp3 can’t keep up
To level my LBZ I installed lowering shackles in the rear. It helped also with driveshaft alignment. Still had to raise the front to get a 1” higher stance in the front.
Please please please install Sulastic Shackles and compare them with unloaded vs loaded ride quality. I am interested in them because they are supposed to make the unloaded ride softer (half ton-ish) and help while loaded.
I have been thinking that this would be the best way for my '06. I already have bags installed and bought the drop shackles but have been hesitant to put them on. Any personal experiance with the setup?
Please keep us posted on the PPE upgrades! I’ve been wanting to install those on my truck but not sure if it’s worth the cost (parts/labor). Great content.
They make a 2 inch levelling kit for that for our trucks because I have the same truck I got a 2021 and there’s two different ways you can do it one is a new shock and spring package that raises 2 inches in 2018 to do that one and then I’ll like mine you can do a key torsion bars and no Apple upper a arms
My F150 is taller on the drivers side rear than the passenger side. I swapped out the shocks and also added lift blocks and it still sits .5" taller. Probably the leaf spring in my case.
I own my tri colored 06 lbz cclb with 4" turbo back exhaust. 3" ppe downpipe, 6" trash procomp lift. Also have kryptonite balljoints and their biggest tie rods. Waiting to get a delete and cts2 and then install my ppe up pipes. Raptor lining the truck like Rustbelt Mechanic when I get the truck mechanically sound.
Just need to make sure you find out the correct "Z" angle of the lower control arm pivot to the bottom of the knuckle to save your ball joints. I recommend a front end alignment as well since you moved the torsion keys. Good insurance to keep good treadware and less balljoint wear. I am gonna look into those helper springs.
I just had a 3” Cognito leveling kit installed on my LML. I highly recommend it. Most leveling kits are 2” but the extra inch might help in your case leveling it out with that spring kit in back. And sexy upper control arms are always a plus
Damn I wish I knew that about the dodge ram 2nd gen doors! I have had so many over the last couple years. I get all the scrap from the local Ford and Jeep/Dodge dealerships near me. Same guy owns both dealerships and I get things that are brand new, as "scrap" sometimes. Sometimes used but mint condition. I guess I should stop scrapping things like that as "light iron" and start putting stuff on ebay or Facebook marketplace.
I was going to mention the same thing! A little easier to install also IMO and much improved ride quality without affecting the height of the rear of the truck!!
You should have measured from the frame to the ground, torsion keys could be set differently, also it’s always a good practice to adjust with the weight on the vehicle
I have a 2008 GMC 3500HD Sierra dually crew cab with Banks Speed Brake and Ram Air, Titan in bed 50 gal. auxiliary fuel tank, and FASS lift pump that I pull a 37 ft. Palamino Columbus fifth wheel with. I was wondering why you don't use a weight distributing anti sway hitch with your travel trailer, which would help with level pulling as well as sway?
I always drive anything after doing any suspension work to let the vehicle settle. Also all the def stuff is on the passenger side may account for the passenger side being a little lower
you'll be chasing details forever about that back end. As old as hellwig chores and welding frames with pretension .. trying to think ahead.Might get it right some day. 🙃 A tip for torsion.. left side has more weight due to steering , drivers alone, front diff offset, with transfer and shaft...and fuel tank. that started in 1988. I work with gmt400 and 800
If you had the truck off the ground, then put it back down, especially when doing suspension work you should take it out for a drive and let it settle, then re-measure. But yes, if they keys are that far off, that’s a def smoking gun. make sure they keys are the same (have to remove them and compare the clock of the hex.) HD and 1500 keys will be a different “color” or clocked differently.
What part of Michigan are you from big fan man love what you do I learn stuff everyday im from Michigan too don't have a diesel myself but love em. Keep up the good work
I put heavier leafs on my truck bc it needed springs anyway and put the shocks with the coils on them on rear but I never heard of what u used they look sweet
Honestly, if push came to shove, some emissions friendly tunes still make some good power.. (I mean eventually if we telly have no choice, I’d get a banks tune) TopCorey ran a similar tune in his 6.7 Powerstroke and said it’s scary how good it was and was odd because it was so quiet.
I own the exact truck in your video, I love it. I want to order the suspension parts you're putting on, i noticed you didn't have the weight distribution bars on. The parts you put on are going to replace the weight distribution bars on the camper? I also noticed no swaybar on you're hitch, my camper is a jayco 32kbs and i get hella sway without the swaybar, and even putting those new parts on I would still put weight distribution bars on, just wondering? Also I want to put the exact new pipes you have on my truck, can't wait for your new video on how they improve the performance. Get back to me please on my questions on the weight distribution bars, thanks... Love your videos they're real.....
What brand are you using? You might have is set up with too much distribution...It's typically supposed to settle somewhere between unloaded and loaded.
I thought the traction bars just helped with axle wrap and wheel hop? Do they help with squat too? I put Firestone bags on mine- love them but you’ve gotta make sure there’s always a little pressure in them even when you’re not towing.
the rear axle looks like it’s pushed forward quite a bit. we run fleets of these trucks and none of them look like that. the tire is almost into the bed.
I have a 05 LLY that overheated and engine locked out. Went ahead and bought a 01 lb7 motor and transmission with new Bosch injectors and new cp3. To put on my lly. What are your thought about the swap? Will it be plug and play or will I require different harness?
Josh, wondering how this add on would help with the truck's handling on wash board gravel roads? Or do you you know of any afytermarket parts that would help with this? 2007 GMC 2500HD Classic and a 2006 2500HD Classic long box.
Back in September I had the hsp y bridge kit up pipe 3 inch downpipe and 4 inch exhaust on my 06 lby 3500 dually. When they were taking the up pipe off one of the bolts that connects the pipe to turbo broke inside the turbo to they had to take the turbo off , fast forward to October I have an oil leak from the back of the engine I think it might be leaking oil from the turbo oil line , wht do you think Truck Master
You didn't need that spring kit.. you dont have your spring bars on the the equalizer hitch. If it still sags with the bars adjusted you need heavier bars.. they come as 600 lbs 1000 lbs and 1200 lbs bars..
I wonder how these would compare to the torklift stable loads.. I have the stable loads on my Sierra 2500 and I haul a 2000 lbs truck camper and they make a huge difference with sway; especially when you are on rough roads.
You need new torsion bars. Somebody cranked one further to compensate for a weak torsion bar. Dealer item. I can tell you from experience you're wasting your time trying to adjust it...give it a few months of driving and it will be sagging on the right front again. Bite the bullet, replace them both. My 07 lbz did the same thing (same side too) in 2010. Adjusted them with alignment one time, two months later the right front corner was sagging, I'm surprised you didn't notice the front sagging before you noticed the rear being raised.
I have a question it has nothing to do with video. I have a 2005 silverado 1500 with the electronic 4x4 buttons I shifted it into 4hi and now it won't shift back into 2hi I have replaced switch and actuator and nothing still stuck in 4hi have you ever had this problem or do you know what it might be I don't want to drive my truck stuck in four wheel drive
I have the exact truck he has with a pedal monster on it, DAMN the pedal monster is fantastic. I don't use it when I'm towing my 37 foot camper it kept spinning the tires as I accelerated even in tow mode. However the pedal monster so far is the greatest addition to my truck.
So with this spring set up do you still need to run a weight distribution hitch? I am running one now but I tow my trailer with a 5.3 l gas suburban but I really want a 2500 hd Silverado
Do you not run a distribution hitch on your rv would help level it out and pull better i have a big rv i pull with our l5p high country and its leveled out with just the hitch no bags or anything gonna get the sway stabilizer and test it out soon ive got a 31 foot model with three slides
That's crazy your egt is that high. My LMM, double towing, in 90 degree weather doesn't go over 800 on a normal incline and it's only 500-650 cruising. Although I've got compounds on it too, so that's prob keeping I lower.
Alright impressive part . I like those more than the long traction bars. Any time you have a add a leaf or load handlers such as those. My experience is usually the back end will sit a little taller. Curious about the ride unloaded ? How much stiffer is it. Actually they can be put on and taken off fairly easy. Another advantage of them . I am a big fan of air bags. But if these prove out. They are going to be a good deal. Less expensive, easy install and removal. Very cool
I have a 2019 GMC Denali 2500 HD, do I really need these? I only get about 1 inch squat, when I hook up to my trailer a Jayco 32 KBS (8200 pds). Your thoughts?
Was your test flawed by adjusting the torsion keys in the middle of the spring install or did you measure the starting fender well height after the torsion key adjustment?
Hey everybody. I’m in the market for a diesel. I live in CA. Should I go pre 2011 for the CP3 or just buy a 2015 and do the conversion? I’m 49 years old and I want this truck to last the rest of my working life
What truck do you own? Just curious to see how many truck owners watch these videos. Thanks. Comment your ride below 👇
2012 Cummins with some mods
My truck has industrial commercial, design for commercial applications, cummins 6.7.
2015 gmc Duramax 2500
@@Sn0Pro7 I’m dying to get a 6.7l on the channel
@@repairvehicle nice 👍
When adjusting suspension, you must drive the vehicle in between adjustments. This will allow the suspension to settle and re-adjust to the new positions for the adjusted suspension.
2003 lb7🤘🤘
Good advice. Also the Front key bolts are adjusted different to compensate for the weight of a full tank of fuel, a driver, and a transfer case and front driveline. Instead of measuring the bolts I usually measure to the fenders. I usually use a floor Jack and after each adjustment I drop the truck fast to actively let the suspension bounce and relax. Rolling a few feet back and forth is even better but I don't usually bother to do that.
For leveling, I would suggest something like the Cognito 2 upper A-arm kits. This helps properly realign the front end after raising the keys or adding re-clocked keys.
It seems like putting airbags in with a pump and a self levelling system would be easier. At least you don’t sacrifice your right quality when there’s no weight on the truck
And a proper air ride system that you can adjust from the drivers seat too.
I love that hoist as much as you do Josh. Makes filming easier for you, and more detail for us. Multiple content with project updates are always welcomed. Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback
With that truck so nice and living up north, you should do like a Fluid Film undercoat to your trucks.
Cold weather be careful with that spring add on when your pulling the camper. We used something like that on salt trucks and snap springs. What they call on the boxes we open were called load damper
On the DUMP bed, for the FUEL fill lines. Just a idea, go look at the flat bed/ stake bed new trucks. It shows how the fuel fill lines are run, for dump beds. Maybe give you some ideas. Thank you for video.
Remember Adjust the front end like that you have to get re Aligned and it 100% changes the way it rides. On another note check your front axle angle and set them as level as possible for best ride and 4x4 steering. The torsion bars are never the same you have to measure front both sides never go by the bolt length one torsion bar may be warn out more. After each adjustment even with new Helper springs you gotta go drive it the measure it all out again and do adjustment, after all is done go get alignment. It's alot of work and can take a full day doing this, if all else fails the rear springs could have been over loaded at one times and need to be replaced these trucks get overloaded often without you even knowing.
The rear is supposed to be higher , so when you tow it sets it level depending how heavy the load so your not starring at the sky when loaded
Exactly. But everyone wants to "level" their truck. Then they're doing the Carolina squat when they tow or load it up with some weight in the bed.
My trucks have always been adjusted like that from factory. They factor in for a tank of fuel and driver on that side
You asked for feedback. Actually using the weight distribution bars on your trailer load equalization hitch would be a more suitable towing solution or should at least be mentioned within the context of the video. If the truck is still squatting with them Installed then there is the option to buy heavier bars for the hitch appropriately sized for the tongue weight of the trailer. Suspension mods can be helpful too, but first things first.
06 lbz, 100hp injectors, stage 2 650hp turbo, 3" down pipe, 5" exhaust, 7-900 hp fass fuel system, 6" lift on 37" tires.
Those black Denalis 2500hd (2015-2020 gen) are one of the best if not the best looking crew cabs ever produced. Black and chrome, looking great.
They might have the torsion keys set differently to try to offset the weight on the drivers side when the fuel tank is full
That’s a very good point
When I got my Chevy the previous owner said the driver's side was up because he was a heavy guy and that made it level with him in it.
I just bought a 23 l5p Chevy. Has 1800 miles I put a 3in lift on it and when I went to remove the torsion keys I measured the bolts first. Left side was a 1 3/16. Right side was 1 3/4. Very surprised the factory didn’t get it closer then that. Needless to say I have them pretty close now
Kind of unrelated to those but on my old Lbz, I put some smaller kind of u bolts on the front side of the axle on the leafs. They help with axle wrap and chatter especially with boost launches. I heard about it from guys that run them on their drag car setups. My Lbz wasn’t pushing much for horse but even on a stock setup they help a lot with drivability and keeping the leaf stack solid. Super cheap way to help out the stack and keeping it from bouncing around. Wondering if you’ve ever heard of the same thing or not. Lmk!
I just picked up a 2018 Sierra 2500 duramax. Same exact thing. My front passenger side is about and inch lower than the front drivers side. Going out tomorrow to check the torsion key bolts to see if that is the issue. Thanks for the vid!
I know you are up north, but surprising how much rust is under such a new truck.
I’m down in Georgia & my 2007 GMC Duramax has almost zero rust underneath.
And I’m in process of doing airbags on mine in very near future.
Running the same spring add on! Pull a 36’ Race car trailer, ride improved and helped w/ squat w/o trailer it raised ass end about a inch!
(I can live with it for trailering)
The adjustability is the reason people go with airbags, a set spring is just gonna be what it is. the tighter you go the higher it will sit, and the stiffer it will be hence why a majority who are really serious about their level go with the adjustability of the airbags
Very good point
It is suggested to use the 3rd hole if you can. When I did mine I thought it was nuts that it couldn't make a difference, but turns out it does.
Install a rough country leveling kit so that you correct the ride height. And just to answer your curiosity I have a 2016 Chevrolet crew 5.3 L Z71 midnight Edition with the midnight kit added. Had a new 2014 Pearl High Country edition with the High Country kit till it was sacrificed to save my daughter and myself from a drunk driver who crossed over the medium at 45 miles an hour.
Glad you are ok
I don't know about price, but you should look for a 2nd gen door in Wyoming. We are very dry and don't have too many issues with rust. Many people drive older body style trucks here.
Lb7 with a lbz front clip 7-9 inch zone lift with 37 inch trail grapps on 20x10 XDs it’s got Efi live with dsp 5 switch aem cold air and 5 inch exhaust full kryptonite front end with bilstein 5100’s and full Rockford fosgate audio including all the components and subs
Oh and 100 over injectors and I really need a fass lift pump or an air dog or something cause I can’t even run it in tune five because the factory cp3 can’t keep up
Cool upgrade. I am thinking of doing that to my truck. I am really happy with how it tows. Handles my trailers well.
You could change the torsion keys. That way you don't have to bury the adjustment bolt and lose some of the front suspension spring.
To level my LBZ I installed lowering shackles in the rear. It helped also with driveshaft alignment. Still had to raise the front to get a 1” higher stance in the front.
Please please please install Sulastic Shackles and compare them with unloaded vs loaded ride quality. I am interested in them because they are supposed to make the unloaded ride softer (half ton-ish) and help while loaded.
If you want it level without turning keys, get rear drop shackles and air bags
I have been thinking that this would be the best way for my '06. I already have bags installed and bought the drop shackles but have been hesitant to put them on.
Any personal experiance with the setup?
@@aaronb7990 you will be fine. I’ve been running that setup for years now. Just don’t run the shackles all the way down and keep some air in the bags
@@riotis54 😎👍
Awesome Thanks!
@@aaronb7990 Do it!!!
Please keep us posted on the PPE upgrades! I’ve been wanting to install those on my truck but not sure if it’s worth the cost (parts/labor). Great content.
Thanks! I will find out how it goes this week
My uncle has the 2nd gen grave yard in Nashville GA. He's got a few good doors passenger and driver no dents with the door cards.
With I was closer
You will need an alignment now since u adjusted the torsion keys. Can cause tires to wear uneven
I definitely plan on it
They make a 2 inch levelling kit for that for our trucks because I have the same truck I got a 2021 and there’s two different ways you can do it one is a new shock and spring package that raises 2 inches in 2018 to do that one and then I’ll like mine you can do a key torsion bars and no Apple upper a arms
My F150 is taller on the drivers side rear than the passenger side. I swapped out the shocks and also added lift blocks and it still sits .5" taller. Probably the leaf spring in my case.
I own my tri colored 06 lbz cclb with 4" turbo back exhaust. 3" ppe downpipe, 6" trash procomp lift. Also have kryptonite balljoints and their biggest tie rods. Waiting to get a delete and cts2 and then install my ppe up pipes. Raptor lining the truck like Rustbelt Mechanic when I get the truck mechanically sound.
That sounds like a solid build
2006 GMC 3500 longbed with an 8.1. 2021 GMC DUALLY with Duramax.
Just need to make sure you find out the correct "Z" angle of the lower control arm pivot to the bottom of the knuckle to save your ball joints. I recommend a front end alignment as well since you moved the torsion keys. Good insurance to keep good treadware and less balljoint wear. I am gonna look into those helper springs.
This is solid advice thanks
@@TruckMaster mine was 4.7" on my 06.
Highly recommend the alignment as well! I actually was about to comment it, but saw yours lol
I just had a 3” Cognito leveling kit installed on my LML. I highly recommend it. Most leveling kits are 2” but the extra inch might help in your case leveling it out with that spring kit in back. And sexy upper control arms are always a plus
Josh from the factory the drivers side of a car or truck is preloaded so that when people or cargo are inside the truck or car rides level
Glad you like the kit, we enjoyed the video! 👍
Thanks!
So from research I've done the best thing to do to get your truck level is to put drop shackles in the rear. Curious what you think about that
Same, even bought some but have been hesitant to put them on.
Maybe someone that has done it can chime in.
@@aaronb7990 I had my shop install them …works awesome! My 2015 bolts came out very hard though, not n easy install >.
I put Drop shackles on the rear of my Sierra was not an easy job to Install but trucks it’s level now
LBZ Duramax w/ 5 in straight pipe, 3 in mbrp downpipe, and soon to have a complete kryptonite front end
Damn I wish I knew that about the dodge ram 2nd gen doors! I have had so many over the last couple years. I get all the scrap from the local Ford and Jeep/Dodge dealerships near me. Same guy owns both dealerships and I get things that are brand new, as "scrap" sometimes. Sometimes used but mint condition. I guess I should stop scrapping things like that as "light iron" and start putting stuff on ebay or Facebook marketplace.
Gotta say sumo springs are pretty easy to install and really help with squat and ride.
I was going to mention the same thing! A little easier to install also IMO and much improved ride quality without affecting the height of the rear of the truck!!
I have run Sumo Springs for 5 years in my 2015. No maintenance, put on and forget.
You should have measured from the frame to the ground, torsion keys could be set differently, also it’s always a good practice to adjust with the weight on the vehicle
I have a 2008 GMC 3500HD Sierra dually crew cab with Banks Speed Brake and Ram Air, Titan in bed 50 gal. auxiliary fuel tank, and FASS lift pump that I pull a 37 ft. Palamino Columbus fifth wheel with. I was wondering why you don't use a weight distributing anti sway hitch with your travel trailer, which would help with level pulling as well as sway?
I always drive anything after doing any suspension work to let the vehicle settle. Also all the def stuff is on the passenger side may account for the passenger side being a little lower
you'll be chasing details forever about that back end. As old as hellwig chores and welding frames with pretension .. trying to think ahead.Might get it right some day. 🙃 A tip for torsion.. left side has more weight due to steering , drivers alone, front diff offset, with transfer and shaft...and fuel tank. that started in 1988. I work with gmt400 and 800
If you had the truck off the ground, then put it back down, especially when doing suspension work you should take it out for a drive and let it settle, then re-measure. But yes, if they keys are that far off, that’s a def smoking gun. make sure they keys are the same (have to remove them and compare the clock of the hex.) HD and 1500 keys will be a different “color” or clocked differently.
Just know the torsion keys also play on the alignment, and your Weight distribution Hitch can take out the rest of your squat
4:42 GOT EM!!!
Should get a dpf back exhaust on the l5p so she has a little bit of sound either that or a simple muffler delete
I’m really thinking about it thanks 👍
What part of Michigan are you from big fan man love what you do I learn stuff everyday im from Michigan too don't have a diesel myself but love em. Keep up the good work
Thanks! Lansing area
I put heavier leafs on my truck bc it needed springs anyway and put the shocks with the coils on them on rear but I never heard of what u used they look sweet
Honestly, if push came to shove, some emissions friendly tunes still make some good power.. (I mean eventually if we telly have no choice, I’d get a banks tune)
TopCorey ran a similar tune in his 6.7 Powerstroke and said it’s scary how good it was and was odd because it was so quiet.
I had to do the adjustment on my 03 Silverado. It was off much like yours.
Cant wait your cummins project getting done! NEXT PROJECT DIESEL TRUCK! thumb up! I always excited see your videos new coming up every weeks!
Thanks!
I own the exact truck in your video, I love it. I want to order the suspension parts you're putting on, i noticed you didn't have the weight distribution bars on. The parts you put on are going to replace the weight distribution bars on the camper? I also noticed no swaybar on you're hitch, my camper is a jayco 32kbs and i get hella sway without the swaybar, and even putting those new parts on I would still put weight distribution bars on, just wondering? Also I want to put the exact new pipes you have on my truck, can't wait for your new video on how they improve the performance. Get back to me please on my questions on the weight distribution bars, thanks... Love your videos they're real.....
Which air compressor do you like the best. I saw that you have ~ 3
when my 06 was brand new my rear spring was bad and the dealer changed it out and it fixed that
Weight distribution bars are amazing. I don't tow without them. My truck sits higher with bars installed than when I have no trailer.
I didn’t use the bars on the camper for this one. I figured it would throw the test off some.
What brand are you using? You might have is set up with too much distribution...It's typically supposed to settle somewhere between unloaded and loaded.
Now if you use the bars on the weight hitch it might mess with how the hitch was setup and make the camper unstable as it could raise it
That is a great idea for pulling the trailer
I was thinking of air bags but not anymore…..
How about the unloaded ride ? Is it rougher?
I’m not sure I will keep you posted
I thought the traction bars just helped with axle wrap and wheel hop? Do they help with squat too? I put Firestone bags on mine- love them but you’ve gotta make sure there’s always a little pressure in them even when you’re not towing.
the rear axle looks like it’s pushed forward quite a bit. we run fleets of these trucks and none of them look like that. the tire is almost into the bed.
I have to check this out now
I have a 05 LLY that overheated and engine locked out. Went ahead and bought a 01 lb7 motor and transmission with new Bosch injectors and new cp3. To put on my lly. What are your thought about the swap? Will it be plug and play or will I require different harness?
I have a 2015 F250 Powerstroke.
I think your GMC looks good with the stance at the end of the video.
Thanks
Josh, wondering how this add on would help with the truck's handling on wash board gravel roads? Or do you you know of any afytermarket parts that would help with this? 2007 GMC 2500HD Classic and a 2006 2500HD Classic long box.
Back in September I had the hsp y bridge kit up pipe 3 inch downpipe and 4 inch exhaust on my 06 lby 3500 dually. When they were taking the up pipe off one of the bolts that connects the pipe to turbo broke inside the turbo to they had to take the turbo off , fast forward to October I have an oil leak from the back of the engine I think it might be leaking oil from the turbo oil line , wht do you think Truck Master
It’s leaking from the drain tube off the back of the turbo I’m almost positive
@@TruckMaster it runs down mostly on the driver side
You didn't need that spring kit.. you dont have your spring bars on the the equalizer hitch. If it still sags with the bars adjusted you need heavier bars.. they come as 600 lbs 1000 lbs and 1200 lbs bars..
I absolutely need it for my 14k trailer I use to haul all my trucks
My '14 sits lower on passenger side also. I think it has to do with heavy exhaust and def box too.
That could play a factor as well 👍
Airbags are the way to go in my opinion. A lot easier to deal with in the long run.
What kind of milage do u get hauling that camper with that truck thinking about sujesting that to my dad for his 2011 2500
I wonder how these would compare to the torklift stable loads.. I have the stable loads on my Sierra 2500 and I haul a 2000 lbs truck camper and they make a huge difference with sway; especially when you are on rough roads.
Is there any reason you wouldn’t just use an equalizer hitch? It solves your problem without any installs
I have one
You need new torsion bars. Somebody cranked one further to compensate for a weak torsion bar. Dealer item. I can tell you from experience you're wasting your time trying to adjust it...give it a few months of driving and it will be sagging on the right front again. Bite the bullet, replace them both. My 07 lbz did the same thing (same side too) in 2010. Adjusted them with alignment one time, two months later the right front corner was sagging, I'm surprised you didn't notice the front sagging before you noticed the rear being raised.
I can’t believe I overlooked this
Man…..I gotta say…..I love the new garage. I’m jealous
what did you finally choose for tension on the helpers? Black or white spacer?
I have a question it has nothing to do with video. I have a 2005 silverado 1500 with the electronic 4x4 buttons I shifted it into 4hi and now it won't shift back into 2hi I have replaced switch and actuator and nothing still stuck in 4hi have you ever had this problem or do you know what it might be I don't want to drive my truck stuck in four wheel drive
Looks great!! Great alternative. We have them on a truck at work and do very well.
What kind of travel trailer is that and what is the hitch weight and gross weight?
I highly highly recommend putting a banks pedal monster on that. Night and day difference with no tuning at all
Couldn't agree more
But makes truck regen more.
Mine hasn't changed. Between 350 and 400 miles. But that wouldn't be the pedal monster. That's your foot
I have the exact truck he has with a pedal monster on it, DAMN the pedal monster is fantastic. I don't use it when I'm towing my 37 foot camper it kept spinning the tires as I accelerated even in tow mode. However the pedal monster so far is the greatest addition to my truck.
@@repairvehicle , not the case for my 2017. Mine has always regened the same, once a tank full.
So with this spring set up do you still need to run a weight distribution hitch? I am running one now but I tow my trailer with a 5.3 l gas suburban but I really want a 2500 hd Silverado
Yes I probably should to help prevent sway
Do you not run a distribution hitch on your rv would help level it out and pull better i have a big rv i pull with our l5p high country and its leveled out with just the hitch no bags or anything gonna get the sway stabilizer and test it out soon ive got a 31 foot model with three slides
I have one ☝️
That's crazy your egt is that high. My LMM, double towing, in 90 degree weather doesn't go over 800 on a normal incline and it's only 500-650 cruising. Although I've got compounds on it too, so that's prob keeping I lower.
That L5P is one damn good looking truck.
Thanks
Now that you mess with your torsion bars now you have to do a front end alignment
Did you check LNL in Lawton Michigan or BNS auto in Vicksburg
Alright impressive part . I like those more than the long traction bars. Any time you have a add a leaf or load handlers such as those. My experience is usually the back end will sit a little taller. Curious about the ride unloaded ? How much stiffer is it. Actually they can be put on and taken off fairly easy. Another advantage of them . I am a big fan of air bags. But if these prove out. They are going to be a good deal. Less expensive, easy install and removal. Very cool
I will keep you guys updated, I’m curious to see how these perform
@@TruckMasterSo how are they when driving unloaded?
They do that from factory to help with the curvature of the road
Do they make those for a 1500 that will eventually have a 2/4 drop kit?
My lil bros 2002 silverado 1500, 2wd 5.3 liiter?litter?, just curious
I have a 2019 GMC Denali 2500 HD, do I really need these? I only get about 1 inch squat, when I hook up to my trailer a Jayco 32 KBS (8200 pds). Your thoughts?
Interesting,thanks Josh
Hey man whats the best turbo for towing in my lml ? No budget and I have a built trans
64mm RDS
Thank you man will look into it ! nice l5p btw
Thank you buddy
Great video,. I am going to be getting a Duramax, where is your shop?
Was your test flawed by adjusting the torsion keys in the middle of the spring install or did you measure the starting fender well height after the torsion key adjustment?
No because I got another measurement off camera before I cranked the bars and it was the same measurement 👍
Had to adjust the torsion bars on my truck too for the same reason.
2004 hd GMC Dmax extended cab long box
Check out lmc truck for the door for that dodge. I believe they carry stuff for dodges
Noticed some rust on one of the tortion bolts. Are
you doing anything for rust protection?
I am a big fan of fluid film. Does great for me being in Connecticut
3500 has advantages, it take more load in back and less sag.
Hey everybody. I’m in the market for a diesel. I live in CA. Should I go pre 2011 for the CP3 or just buy a 2015 and do the conversion? I’m 49 years old and I want this truck to last the rest of my working life