Good job sir, the porous metal that you are seeing is from cavitation from the coolant vapor bubbles attaching to the metal surfaces and imploding on the power stroke cycles. You can take a semi abrasive slowly on a straight shaft die grinder to clean the surfaces. Make sure that you wrap the crank oil journals with towels to keep from getting debris in the cross drillings.
Mr.G.Robertson I like what you did by inframe rebuilding your diesel engine your real good at doing mechanic diesel work how long did it take to rebuild your Detroit engine?🤠🤙👍✊💪🙏☝️your real good Mr.Gordon Robertson that's 💯✌️out God bless 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸 us all love what you do do what you love Mr.Robertson.
Like what you said about getting thev anti freeze out of rge head bolt holes I actually seen a mechanic ruin an engine by not doing that he ran the head bolts down with an air wrench and there was antifreeze in the bottom of 1 hole and he blew the bottom out of one of the holes
Hi Gordon, Just wanted to let you know I use an angle air tool with a scotch brite pad to clean my mating surfaces on engines and and anything that needs a smooth polished surface to seal. glad to see you can work on it again for a day or two anyway.
That's a good way to do it, I may not go the full 100% on polishing it, I really don't care if it still has a few stains from the old gasket as long as it is clean and dry and has no residue of the old gasket. I wish I could know when the shop will have my stuff done, I have done everything I can with what I have.
Yea you would think they had plenty of time to get it done. I have to overhaul an Allis Chalmers 301ci for a tractor but I am waiting till spring. Never overhauled a diesel before but have done several gas engines. If I screw it up I have not lost anything because it is a boat anchor right now!
I would do all the research online to make sure you have every part you might possibly need available and a way to make, or have made anything that could go wrong before I start buying anything. Good luck.
I guess I never rebuilt a Diesel either, I never really thought about it being a Diesel, to me it's just another motor that's not much different other than the size. I have done plenty of repairs and maintenance on Diesels over the years, so the difference between Diesel and Gas to me is like the difference between Ford and Chevy.
Thanks for watching. You know I do old school mechanic work and a lot of it is not acceptable in a school setting. I do videos to show what works for me and to help people in a pinch, not all of it is 100% correct. Good luck with your endeavor.
Mr Gordon,. I'm in the middle of rebuilding my Detroit. I watched all your videos which helped me tremendously so thank you for passing on your knowledge. I just got my liners out and need to clean my block crankshaft and all any suggestions?
I just used an old sock with a scotch-brite pad soaked with Diesel and wrapped it over the top of every crank journal and polished the crank like a shoe shine and turned the crank to get the other side. I used the Scotch-brite with Diesel on the top of the block too. Watch out for pitted areas in the machined surface where the liner seals go into the block, I had to mix some epoxy to fill those on mine so they wouldn't cut the new seals.
Gordon, You seem like a man on a mission. I can tell you have the process broken down in your mind and now you're just checking items off the list to get the job done. A few questions for here or your next video. 1) Did you clean all those parts with just brake cleaner and a sharpened drywall knife? 2) Does the machine shop order all the new parts and then make sure they're to spec? You mentioned the machine shop ordering pistons and I didn't think they did that. 3) Could you use a round wire brush on a drill or grinder to clean out where the o-Rings go on the cylinder liners? Perhaps it would be tough getting down those cylinders. Keep up the great work and great series. Again, I'm not about to go out and rebuild my I4700 but it's cool to see how it's done.
Hey John, no, I didn't use brake cleaner for that much cleaning, I only use brake cleaner for drying oil residue or for cleaning a very small area for the convenience, or if I need something strong that will cut through paint or something tough, I used diesel fuel for all the big cleaning and a parts cleaning brush, wire brush, and the scrapers. You know those knives are not drywall, they are thick, ridged putty knives, drywall knives are wide, very thin and flexible. As for the machine shop, yes they will order any parts pertaining to the job they are doing even if they are only doing a fraction of the complete job if you want them to, most auto machine shops are connected to an auto parts store and order within, the shop I used does auto engines also but is a shop for industrial equipment. I like the idea of a drill type brush wheel with an extension, there is an air tool just for that, that can reach down inside but I don't have one.
Thanks for the info Gordon. I didn't know there was a difference between a drywall knife and a putty knife. I wonder if you'll have that air tool wire brush by the end of the job. :-) Keep up the great work and informative videos.
Yeah...drywall knife is pretty thin to be flexible...putty knife a little thicker...but you can get a very stiff scraper if you look at industrial tools....a carbide scraper is a few $$ but will do a nice job, very sweet for gasket removal..... and last for years.....?
I got a queation to pull off the sleeves did you turn the motor at all or where you able to get all the sleeves out while on top dead center on number 1???
Have you seen any 60 series blocks crack in the counter bore? Liners looking good on the inside but getting air in coolant. Head gasket was already replaced.
I haven't been inside a truck engine before this one, I worked on cars when I was a mechanic. Did you find a crack? or are you looking for possibilities where one could be. What about the air compressor? the coolant goes through that too.
Why is it the truck always breaks down when the weather is at its worst ,last time I inframed my cummins got it all tore apart in a gravel yard and we ended up with 60 mph winds. Looks like you're using your two best Snap On wrenches lol.
I know it happens more often when it's most inconvenient, but things happen to my stuff all year long, just look at the background on my videos. I HATE cold weather, I don't complain about hot weather but I have had to deal with super heat working too, but this job now 3 weeks, the whole country was on vacation for 2 weeks plus the bad weather, I want to finish worse than you know. Thanks for watching
any early s60 with lots of miles always replace the pistons liners and rings. you do not want a Frisbee failure to ruin the job in a few weeks after you get it on the road. (top ring land area of the piston breaks off and the skirt goes up and down with the rod. usually bends valves and hammers the bottom of the head) later (epa 07 and newer ) you may inspect and reuse the pistons. new rings and liners always. also pull the accessory drive and pry the bull gear back and forth- any movement, replace the bull gear. any time the pan is off replace the oil relief and regulator. and be damn careful with rotary cleaning tools. if you remove block material bad news. run a 1" bore brush in each head bolt hole and blow out the crap. closely inspect the counterbores for pits, erosion, and low spots (depth mic). any problems install salvage sleeves as needed. I use a cat expanding liner puller. pulls the piston, rod, and liner together. epa engines you load the piston ad rod assy from the bottom of the liner after you have the liner o rings on.
GET THE SHOP MANUAL! and make sure you can lift the head (300 lbs.) out of there and set it down in a truck, make sure you understand all of the mechanic lingo in the book and if you don't have training and or years of engine mechanic experience, don't try it alone without someone who does have available, take plenty of pictures along the way so you don't forget how to put it together, make sure you have access to all of the required tools. All the bolts are metric, mostly 12 pt. Good luck!
The video on "making the liner puller" is in the series on the in frame rebuild between part 6 and part 7, just go to my channel and hit playlists and hit the series on the rebuild.
I think about $150 or so, but if you're looking into one of those, look at Amazon for ones that plug into your smart phone, I don't have any details handy anymore but I remember seeing some very interesting mini cams for the smart phones on Amazon.com
I plan on just using a couple of the old head bolts and another block of steel, probably the heavy sq. tubing I used for the puller, just put some holes in the ends for the bolts, and use the Jake brake spacers across the top of the liners for a height gauge with the tail of a caliper or a feeler gauge.
If it passes DOT inspection then I assume all the lights, brakes, tires and steering are in shape, check oil levels on anything that can leak like transmission, differentials, power steering, check u-joints, clutch pedal free play, heater and radiator hoses, fuel lines, oil pressure hose from the engine block to the air compressor (this is a good one for a leak and you need a 17mm crows foot wrench to change it.) If it has close to a million miles on it you need to check for play in the Bull Gear, if it uses a serpentine belt, get a spare, or just change it and keep the old one and the same goes for v-belts. That's all I can think of at the moment. Good luck!
Good answer; except everything you named off, he should have checked BEFORE he bought the truck. Hopefully he won't have any expensive surprises: and with a big truck, every surprise seems to be expensive. I don't envy you doing a driveway overhaul outside in the winter, I once needed to change a blown head gasket outside in January when I lived in Upstate New York, there's just some things a guy can't do with gloves on. On the plus side, at least the Big Cam Cummins has three separate heads.
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I love how you are doing this alone with the camera and old tools. . .mentally you have taken me to the next level. Thankyou
Thanks for watching.
Good job sir, the porous metal that you are seeing is from cavitation from the coolant vapor bubbles attaching to the metal surfaces and imploding on the power stroke cycles. You can take a semi abrasive slowly on a straight shaft die grinder to clean the surfaces. Make sure that you wrap the crank oil journals with towels to keep from getting debris in the cross drillings.
Interesting video can't wait for the next installment.
Thanks Eric.
Mr.G.Robertson I like what you did by inframe rebuilding your diesel engine your real good at doing mechanic diesel work how long did it take to rebuild your Detroit engine?🤠🤙👍✊💪🙏☝️your real good Mr.Gordon Robertson that's 💯✌️out God bless 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸 us all love what you do do what you love Mr.Robertson.
Like what you said about getting thev anti freeze out of rge head bolt holes I actually seen a mechanic ruin an engine by not doing that he ran the head bolts down with an air wrench and there was antifreeze in the bottom of 1 hole and he blew the bottom out of one of the holes
Thanks for watching.
Hi Gordon, Just wanted to let you know I use an angle air tool with a scotch brite pad to clean my mating surfaces on engines and and anything that needs a smooth polished surface to seal. glad to see you can work on it again for a day or two anyway.
That's a good way to do it, I may not go the full 100% on polishing it, I really don't care if it still has a few stains from the old gasket as long as it is clean and dry and has no residue of the old gasket. I wish I could know when the shop will have my stuff done, I have done everything I can with what I have.
Yea you would think they had plenty of time to get it done. I have to overhaul an Allis Chalmers 301ci for a tractor but I am waiting till spring. Never overhauled a diesel before but have done several gas engines. If I screw it up I have not lost anything because it is a boat anchor right now!
I would do all the research online to make sure you have every part you might possibly need available and a way to make, or have made anything that could go wrong before I start buying anything. Good luck.
I'll let you know how it goes.
I guess I never rebuilt a Diesel either, I never really thought about it being a Diesel, to me it's just another motor that's not much different other than the size. I have done plenty of repairs and maintenance on Diesels over the years, so the difference between Diesel and Gas to me is like the difference between Ford and Chevy.
I'm on the way to being a desiel tech and your videos are great thanks for the knowledge
Thanks for watching. You know I do old school mechanic work and a lot of it is not acceptable in a school setting. I do videos to show what works for me and to help people in a pinch, not all of it is 100% correct. Good luck with your endeavor.
Mr Gordon,. I'm in the middle of rebuilding my Detroit. I watched all your videos which helped me tremendously so thank you for passing on your knowledge. I just got my liners out and need to clean my block crankshaft and all any suggestions?
I just used an old sock with a scotch-brite pad soaked with Diesel and wrapped it over the top of every crank journal and polished the crank like a shoe shine and turned the crank to get the other side. I used the Scotch-brite with Diesel on the top of the block too. Watch out for pitted areas in the machined surface where the liner seals go into the block, I had to mix some epoxy to fill those on mine so they wouldn't cut the new seals.
Gordon Robertson ok thanks for the reply
Gordon, You seem like a man on a mission. I can tell you have the process broken down in your mind and now you're just checking items off the list to get the job done.
A few questions for here or your next video.
1) Did you clean all those parts with just brake cleaner and a sharpened drywall knife?
2) Does the machine shop order all the new parts and then make sure they're to spec? You mentioned the machine shop ordering pistons and I didn't think they did that.
3) Could you use a round wire brush on a drill or grinder to clean out where the o-Rings go on the cylinder liners? Perhaps it would be tough getting down those cylinders.
Keep up the great work and great series. Again, I'm not about to go out and rebuild my I4700 but it's cool to see how it's done.
Hey John, no, I didn't use brake cleaner for that much cleaning, I only use brake cleaner for drying oil residue or for cleaning a very small area for the convenience, or if I need something strong that will cut through paint or something tough, I used diesel fuel for all the big cleaning and a parts cleaning brush, wire brush, and the scrapers. You know those knives are not drywall, they are thick, ridged putty knives, drywall knives are wide, very thin and flexible. As for the machine shop, yes they will order any parts pertaining to the job they are doing even if they are only doing a fraction of the complete job if you want them to, most auto machine shops are connected to an auto parts store and order within, the shop I used does auto engines also but is a shop for industrial equipment. I like the idea of a drill type brush wheel with an extension, there is an air tool just for that, that can reach down inside but I don't have one.
Thanks for the info Gordon. I didn't know there was a difference between a drywall knife and a putty knife. I wonder if you'll have that air tool wire brush by the end of the job. :-) Keep up the great work and informative videos.
Yeah...drywall knife is pretty thin to be flexible...putty knife a little thicker...but you can get a very stiff scraper if you look at industrial tools....a carbide scraper is a few $$ but will do a nice job, very sweet for gasket removal..... and last for years.....?
Got a question sir is their a way to turn up these motor for more power or maybe this is a stupid question. Love the how to videos..👍
2:30 - 4:50 a wire brush on a grinder will do way more in less time. You are welcomed in advance.
I got a queation to pull off the sleeves did you turn the motor at all or where you able to get all the sleeves out while on top dead center on number 1???
Have you seen any 60 series blocks crack in the counter bore? Liners looking good on the inside but getting air in coolant. Head gasket was already replaced.
I haven't been inside a truck engine before this one, I worked on cars when I was a mechanic. Did you find a crack? or are you looking for possibilities where one could be. What about the air compressor? the coolant goes through that too.
Hey Gordon, What did you clean all your parts with.? Chemical, parts washer, fuel.? -Thanks William.
Why is it the truck always breaks down when the weather is at its worst ,last time I inframed my cummins got it all tore apart in a gravel yard and we ended up with 60 mph winds. Looks like you're using your two best Snap On wrenches lol.
I know it happens more often when it's most inconvenient, but things happen to my stuff all year long, just look at the background on my videos. I HATE cold weather, I don't complain about hot weather but I have had to deal with super heat working too, but this job now 3 weeks, the whole country was on vacation for 2 weeks plus the bad weather, I want to finish worse than you know. Thanks for watching
I have a 12.7 Detroit that I recently bought. It sounds good but I would like to find out if its ready for the road,any suggestions?
any early s60 with lots of miles always replace the pistons liners and rings. you do not want a Frisbee failure to ruin the job in a few weeks after you get it on the road. (top ring land area of the piston breaks off and the skirt goes up and down with the rod. usually bends valves and hammers the bottom of the head) later (epa 07 and newer ) you may inspect and reuse the pistons. new rings and liners always. also pull the accessory drive and pry the bull gear back and forth- any movement, replace the bull gear. any time the pan is off replace the oil relief and regulator. and be damn careful with rotary cleaning tools. if you remove block material bad news. run a 1" bore brush in each head bolt hole and blow out the crap. closely inspect the counterbores for pits, erosion, and low spots (depth mic). any problems install salvage sleeves as needed. I use a cat expanding liner puller. pulls the piston, rod, and liner together. epa engines you load the piston ad rod assy from the bottom of the liner after you have the liner o rings on.
Hi really help full videos i'm starting on mine Detroit next week do you have any tips for me
GET THE SHOP MANUAL! and make sure you can lift the head (300 lbs.) out of there and set it down in a truck, make sure you understand all of the mechanic lingo in the book and if you don't have training and or years of engine mechanic experience, don't try it alone without someone who does have available, take plenty of pictures along the way so you don't forget how to put it together, make sure you have access to all of the required tools. All the bolts are metric, mostly 12 pt. Good luck!
hi gordon the tool for the cam it hold the cam gear in plase so u can turn motor and it will stay on it place like the cam would be on it ?
Yes.
Very informative where does a person buy instruction manuals on a detroit?
I got mine on ebay, you can find pieces on pdf files from docshare.tips or google your subject to repair and look for docs. Thanks for asking
Gordon Robertson appreciate the reply.
I would like to get a good look at your liner puller and how you built it. I was looking for one to buy but they want a small fortune for them
The video on "making the liner puller" is in the series on the in frame rebuild between part 6 and part 7, just go to my channel and hit playlists and hit the series on the rebuild.
Thank you so much very helpfull
Hi Gordon how much is that harbour freight camera
I think about $150 or so, but if you're looking into one of those, look at Amazon for ones that plug into your smart phone, I don't have any details handy anymore but I remember seeing some very interesting mini cams for the smart phones on Amazon.com
Are you making a liner installation tool or renting / borrowing one?
I plan on just using a couple of the old head bolts and another block of steel, probably the heavy sq. tubing I used for the puller, just put some holes in the ends for the bolts, and use the Jake brake spacers across the top of the liners for a height gauge with the tail of a caliper or a feeler gauge.
As long as you can keep it straight you are golden.
Thanks.
I have a 12.7 Detroit that I recently bought. It sounds good but I would like to find out if its ready for the road,any suggestions?
If it passes DOT inspection then I assume all the lights, brakes, tires and steering are in shape, check oil levels on anything that can leak like transmission, differentials, power steering, check u-joints, clutch pedal free play, heater and radiator hoses, fuel lines, oil pressure hose from the engine block to the air compressor (this is a good one for a leak and you need a 17mm crows foot wrench to change it.) If it has close to a million miles on it you need to check for play in the Bull Gear, if it uses a serpentine belt, get a spare, or just change it and keep the old one and the same goes for v-belts. That's all I can think of at the moment. Good luck!
Good answer; except everything you named off, he should have checked BEFORE he bought the truck. Hopefully he won't have any expensive surprises: and with a big truck, every surprise seems to be expensive. I don't envy you doing a driveway overhaul outside in the winter, I once needed to change a blown head gasket outside in January when I lived in Upstate New York, there's just some things a guy can't do with gloves on. On the plus side, at least the Big Cam Cummins has three separate heads.