thank you for this videos in the 80's I was young just came out the army and this very nice man gave me an opportunity to work for him and he only work on 1965 mustangs and he used to take them apart completely man he was good and I learn a lot from him now I'm over 60 and this video brought me so much remembers from back them this was in washington state I don't remember this good guy name but I hope God had bless this good man thank again for your videos . from a D. A. Veteran
Great video as always! I'm restoring/ modifying a 68 coupe right now as well and watch each Jade video 2-3 times to make sure I don't miss any tips, tricks, or suggestions. Thank you for the amazing content!
Thank you, for "sharing" all of your hard work, with the World! It's VERY Interesting, to see all of the detailed considerations, thought processes, tools, skills, proper sequence of "procedures", innovative products, and "tricks" and techniques, and the explanation of the "mindfulness" involved in True "Craftsmanship! "Bravo!" Good work! Thanks!
Great video. Understanding that this is a process helps take the finality of screwing up out of the equation. Especially for beginners. Im sold on giving all this a try!
Thanks for taking the time to record the details. Spot on about taking the time and being patient. The paint will never look right if you run out of patience with the prep work and say "that's good enough" when it's really not. I've found the POR 15 acid/etch stuff works great on killing the rust on pitted metal and really preps the bare metal. The stuff you used seems to give a similar result. Thanks again for sharing!
Well done as always Barry. Thank goodness all of my stuff has to do with Jeeps that get used off road...making body work and paint essentially unnecessary. But, as a fabricator and mechanic, I find your skill set fascinating...a combination of are and science.
I have done this same thing to my Impala (plus trunk, floor, quarters) and I think your explanations were great. Especially liked your tape on the paint can trick.
Thank you, I really enjoyed the video. I did see the videos previous to this one. Thank you i learned a thing or to mainly how you spot welded in the previous video. I'm working on a 99 Expedition and i have a welder but I wasn't sure how to peace the pieces together. Thank you. I think you did an outstanding job.
The surface rust cleaned up beautifully; I'm amazed. I see that you didn't need to scuff the surface of the metal where you applied the glass fortified filler to the edge of the wheel opening; is this OK or would you have preferred to roughen the metal's surface? The trick of feeling the surface of the metal with the paper towel is new to me, but it makes perfect sense. You have a lot of knowledge with body work and I sure do appreciate the fact that you're sharing. Making videos for the masses is work in itself, let alone all of the work at hand. You do a great job. I've been an auto mechanic for 50 years, but never a body man, (at least with cars). You've saved me from making mistakes that I probably would have. Also, that trick with the tape on the paint can makes my day. Having to wipe the paint from the can's groove has been a problem that's been driving me nuts. I don't like paint ruining the seal with the lid. It's like why didn't I think of that! Again, thanks for all that you do.
Thank you for a very informative video,good close ups & advise,my only prob is I don’t have a nice welder like yours but hopefully in the future,that’s if I ever get done with all the honey does,prob never.ok thanks again & keep the videos coming,good job!!!
Super helpful. I'm about to tackle some epoxy work on my Wagoneer. Taken about 1/2 of it to bare metal. I've also read about epoxy vs filler on bare metal. I'm going with epoxy first. It's a process, like you said. Greta work. Thank you.
I soaked a deeply pitted lawnmower body in vinegar for 3 days. It was crazy to see it come out completely clean of any rust, only leaving those deep pock marks!!!
Clean the rust remover with the very thing that caused the rust in first place "water" lol good stuff tho works fast ! Like your videos learning from them 👍
Another great video Barry, keep them coming. Somehow, I think we are on similar build schedules, I just did the same thing with shaping an filler over my weld line on my 73 quarter panels. I already cut most of the spot welds out of the bottom portion of the panel and need to line it up with the trunk drop-offs and quarters are complete. Keep up the videos, we really enjoy them and learn a lot.
a bit to add to the epoxy/body filler discussion.. granted, not all epoxy primers are created equal.. but from what i've read, been told, researched and personal experience. you can apply body filler over epoxy without issue during its "recoat period" (different for each one) without having to etch/scuff the material. it form a chemical bond that is from what i understand, stronger.. it essentially glues it together. after recoat period has passed, you just scuff with 180-220'ish and lay filler over and you're fine. filler is porous and can breath, so the epoxy can gas off, which also means you need to seal the filler if its over bare metal or it can soak moisture and cause rust between the filler and metal its applied directly on.. fiberglass filler isn't porous, so i wouldn't try that over uncured epoxy. but almost everyone recommends filler dtm; especially the older guys that have always done it this way. if you're in a humid place like me, this isn't an option unless you can seal it right after applying.
When working with "epoxy paint", using a sprayer, is it better to use "laquer thinner", or (methyl) alcohol, to dissolve, or remove/flush out residues?... Also: Is it best to use a "HVLP" sprayer, vs the old school "(air) paint sprayer"?... ...[Perhaps you might consider doing a full series of tutorials/demos on the proper use and care of "sprayers", paints/epoxys, coatings, , etc.?!...] ;D
That epoxy work the same as primer surfacer, I have not done body work for along time. I have a 68 sport fury to completely rebuild, it is a rare one as it has a console and bucket seats.
The tend now is to put epoxy on metal, then body filler. I use muratic acid to clean rust then phosphoric, but I always prep the metal with 80 grit on a DA. I like the tape on the can.
I don't use liquid rust desolvers of any brand on panels because the liquid just runs off the panel and since these are water based, in hot days it quickly dries. In your case it worked just fine because it is very light surface rust. What I recommend your readers is to use a gel rust desolver because it sticks to the panel and does not slide off easily or dries like liquid. I personally use The Must For Rust by Krudd Kutter sold at walmart, Home Depot or just about anywhere. It is a sprayable gel that comes on a spray bottle and it is also a water based product that won't burn your skin on contact like a phosphoric metal etcher. In addition, I highly recommend not to rinse off the panel after treating with any rust desolver even thought waterbased rust desolvers instruct to use water. You will simply get surface rust right away, surface rust like your welded piece. Simply wipe it off with those blue shop paper towels. Then use acetone on another clean blue paper towel to wipe off any residue even if it's not visible. I follow with the chemical etcher also on a blue paper towel to rub it on the bare metal for about 5 minutes then wipe if off dry. The phosphoric etcher also helps to remove rust but I mainly use it because it treats the metal for the primer. The phosphoric etcher i use is by Klean Strip. Then I use an epoxy primer & I try to paint the panel asap. But hey my way is not the only way. Other products do the exact same thing. To each their own but I simply wanted to share my experience.
I was taught to tooth up the surface that your applying evercoat or filler too first with 80 grit on a da even bare metal on your first coat. Is that wrong or just preference. I was told it holds better to that than a smooth surface
Barry, I love these videos. I travel a lot for work so I have a lot of free time to watch your videos. Looking for a daddy daughter project, and I’m learning a lot from you. One question I have where do you buy the PPG shop line products. I can’t seem to find them anywhere online. Keep the awesome videos coming, thanks
I have a question. How do you avoid clogging up,sand paper? Seems like if I let it dry 3 hours, or 4 days, I can’t get more then 2 min before the sand paper is useless. No the bondo isn’t tacky or sticky. It’s solid and dry. But, this is 80g, 120g, 220... is that just nature of the beast? Or am I doing something wrong? I’m using normal bondo from Home Depot, and auto stores. In Colorado, so dry warm weather, even in winter. But I don’t bondo much in winter... Also tape on the paint can!! Wow, that will help stay clean a ton! F’n GENIUS!
You're using actual bondo brand? Hate to say it, but that's the problem. Spend the money and get good materials. I use Evercoat Rage Ultra or Gold. I have links on my Amazon page which is in the description. Bondo brand is notorious for holding moisture. What brand of paper are you using?
The order to use filler 1st on bare metal then epoxy primer 2nd has to do with the quality of products you are using. if you are using cheap bondo brand filler on bare metal then epoxy the panel will probably rust down the line. the epoxy primer helps to seal out moisture but probably not enough to stop the absorption of moisture that cheap body fillers tend to do.
Thank you Jo, Great video.I have done some body work / painting on my 68 Camaro, so I have a little knowledge. My next project is a 55 GMC pickup, the bed is single walled, how you go about fixing small rust holes, about the size of a pencils?
Where to you pick up the 3X Rust dissolver? Both Ebay and Amazon are out and don't a have future date. Wondering of something might have happened to distribution.
Always great content. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. No one shows the little details like you do. Maybe you have been asked this before but what size air compressor do you use for your air tools? I will be starting my own 69 fastback project soon and I want to upgrade from my 8 gallon pool toy and tire inflator :)
Hello, sir. My front fender has rot on the backside, so a patch panel of the type you used here won't work for me. Are you aware of a solution for that type of issue? I'd prefer to not replace the entire fender if I don't have to. Thanks again for your videos!
Can't guarantee how it fits, but they make those. www.mustangsunlimited.com/Mustang/Body/Fenders/Fender-Patch-Panels/Inner-Lower-Rear-Fender-Brace-Passenger-Side-1967-1968-Mustang.axd
When drilling sheet metal I use a step drill and you can use it sideways to elongate the hole . your tips on Rust removal is good for me because I own Rust , just look at my photo . Still here ? yes
It looks very nice. If we were not aware that the repair had been made, we could not tell.
Your videos are by-far the best, most thorough step by step restoration videos on the internet!
Thank you!
I just watched 26 and 27, Excellent. You are the "Norm Abrams" of auto body. Thank you
thank you for this videos in the 80's I was young just came out the army and this very nice man gave me an opportunity to work for him and he only work on 1965 mustangs and he used to take them apart completely man he was good and I learn a lot from him now I'm over 60 and this video brought me so much remembers from back them this was in washington state I don't remember this good guy name but I hope God had bless this good man thank again for your videos . from a D. A. Veteran
love your show man ,you get lots done in each show.thanks for your hard work bud
Great video as always! I'm restoring/ modifying a 68 coupe right now as well and watch each Jade video 2-3 times to make sure I don't miss any tips, tricks, or suggestions. Thank you for the amazing content!
Thank you, for "sharing" all of your hard work, with the World! It's VERY Interesting, to see all of the detailed considerations, thought processes, tools, skills, proper sequence of "procedures", innovative products, and "tricks" and techniques, and the explanation of the "mindfulness" involved in True "Craftsmanship! "Bravo!" Good work! Thanks!
Best videos ever 1 & 2, no doubt!!!
What a superb standard of work by a very skilled man.
Great video. Understanding that this is a process helps take the finality of screwing up out of the equation. Especially for beginners. Im sold on giving all this a try!
Awesome.
Nice job, I really enjoyed your videos on the fender. Thanks for sharing this.
Barry thats a smart idea, putting tap on top of the paint tin.I always wanted to no how to get paint out of a full tin with out making a mess.
Nice to See Jade getting worked on again...
Glad I found you! I'm starting my 1966 restoration. The car has been passed down in my family since it was brand new
Great tip with the can seal area, using tape.
Thanks for taking the time to record the details. Spot on about taking the time and being patient. The paint will never look right if you run out of patience with the prep work and say "that's good enough" when it's really not. I've found the POR 15 acid/etch stuff works great on killing the rust on pitted metal and really preps the bare metal. The stuff you used seems to give a similar result. Thanks again for sharing!
Never miss your shows, they're too good to pass up! Thanks again for a job well done.
Best video I've ever seen, hands down, this will help the so many do it yourselfers ,Thank You!!!!
Very good sir. You have a new subscriber
Well done as always Barry. Thank goodness all of my stuff has to do with Jeeps that get used off road...making body work and paint essentially unnecessary. But, as a fabricator and mechanic, I find your skill set fascinating...a combination of are and science.
Thanks Donnie.
Great vid. Thanks for your patience in putting this together.
Looks pretty good! Vast improvement over what you originally started with.
I have done this same thing to my Impala (plus trunk, floor, quarters) and I think your explanations were great. Especially liked your tape on the paint can trick.
Thank you, I really enjoyed the video. I did see the videos previous to this one. Thank you i learned a thing or to mainly how you spot welded in the previous video. I'm working on a 99 Expedition and i have a welder but I wasn't sure how to peace the pieces together. Thank you. I think you did an outstanding job.
As always your attention to detail is spot on and following what you show makes doing it more easier thumbs up.
They should call you Mr. Patence! Great video. A+++
Great video. I love your thorough approach keep up the great work!
The surface rust cleaned up beautifully; I'm amazed. I see that you didn't need to scuff the surface of the metal where you applied the glass fortified filler to the edge of the wheel opening; is this OK or would you have preferred to roughen the metal's surface? The trick of feeling the surface of the metal with the paper towel is new to me, but it makes perfect sense. You have a lot of knowledge with body work and I sure do appreciate the fact that you're sharing.
Making videos for the masses is work in itself, let alone all of the work at hand. You do a great job. I've been an auto mechanic for 50 years, but never a body man, (at least with cars). You've saved me from making mistakes that I probably would have. Also, that trick with the tape on the paint can makes my day. Having to wipe the paint from the can's groove has been a problem that's been driving me nuts. I don't like paint ruining the seal with the lid. It's like why didn't I think of that! Again, thanks for all that you do.
You can scuff if you like. I've done that before, but primarily when removing other paint work. Thanks for the comment.
Love your videos. They are very instructive.
Thank you for a very informative video,good close ups & advise,my only prob is I don’t have a nice welder like yours but hopefully in the future,that’s if I ever get done with all the honey does,prob never.ok thanks again & keep the videos coming,good job!!!
You do really nice work . I enjoy watching your project, it's going to be really clean. Thanks for sharing your experience
awsome, nice tricks and a good way to address challenges. Nice.. I am learning.
Very well explained. Thanks for going into detail on the various steps.
Try using a air pen type rotary burr with carbide bits works like a charm.great video Jo
Neat trick with tape on the can to keep paint out of the groove.
Another awesome video. Thank you Barry!
A very good job thank you keep up the good work
Fantastic process Barry. Thanks for sharing! Mike
Thanks for the inspiration. Good job as always.
Super helpful. I'm about to tackle some epoxy work on my Wagoneer. Taken about 1/2 of it to bare metal. I've also read about epoxy vs filler on bare metal. I'm going with epoxy first. It's a process, like you said. Greta work. Thank you.
Thank you very much for the tricks, keep doing it right!
I have always used vinegar to remove the surface rust it works great it doesn't kill you either
I soaked a deeply pitted lawnmower body in vinegar for 3 days. It was crazy to see it come out completely clean of any rust, only leaving those deep pock marks!!!
I enjoy watching your video's! Very informative as always!
Clean the rust remover with the very thing that caused the rust in first place "water" lol good stuff tho works fast ! Like your videos learning from them 👍
Another great video, I've been using toilet bowl cleaner and water as a rust remover, that stuff your using works much faster..
Eastwood has a similar rust removal product
Try to notch out putty knife to do the corner. Make sure it fits where you like and that’s how you spread it. 🎉 I seen that before
Another great video Barry, keep them coming. Somehow, I think we are on similar build schedules, I just did the same thing with shaping an filler over my weld line on my 73 quarter panels. I already cut most of the spot welds out of the bottom portion of the panel and need to line it up with the trunk drop-offs and quarters are complete. Keep up the videos, we really enjoy them and learn a lot.
a bit to add to the epoxy/body filler discussion.. granted, not all epoxy primers are created equal.. but from what i've read, been told, researched and personal experience. you can apply body filler over epoxy without issue during its "recoat period" (different for each one) without having to etch/scuff the material. it form a chemical bond that is from what i understand, stronger.. it essentially glues it together. after recoat period has passed, you just scuff with 180-220'ish and lay filler over and you're fine. filler is porous and can breath, so the epoxy can gas off, which also means you need to seal the filler if its over bare metal or it can soak moisture and cause rust between the filler and metal its applied directly on.. fiberglass filler isn't porous, so i wouldn't try that over uncured epoxy. but almost everyone recommends filler dtm; especially the older guys that have always done it this way. if you're in a humid place like me, this isn't an option unless you can seal it right after applying.
Fantastic work. Much appreciated
I think your work is brilliant. Keep it up :)
Really useful - good quality work.
I'd be happy with that too. 👍
Great job as usual Barry.
Beautiful work, thanks for the tips.
Looks beautiful you are a pro
Turned out very nice Barry!
When working with "epoxy paint", using a sprayer, is it better to use "laquer thinner", or (methyl) alcohol, to dissolve, or remove/flush out residues?...
Also: Is it best to use a "HVLP" sprayer, vs the old school "(air) paint sprayer"?...
...[Perhaps you might consider doing a full series of tutorials/demos on the proper use and care of "sprayers", paints/epoxys, coatings, , etc.?!...] ;D
I clean out my guns with lacquer thinner. I prefer the modern HVLP guns.
That epoxy work the same as primer surfacer, I have not done body work for along time. I have a 68 sport fury to completely rebuild, it is a rare one as it has a console and bucket seats.
I can't say for sure since I don't use primer surfacer. I know epoxy bonds very well to bare metal.
Haha, yes, I was still there. Hey thank you sir, great video. ❤❤
Thanks, I needed that! Very helpful indeed.
Again another great lesson. Is there a video to follow this one on how you got rid of the sanding scratches
Not for this particular fender, but I have a bunch of other videos that might help.
The tend now is to put epoxy on metal, then body filler. I use muratic acid to clean rust then phosphoric, but I always prep the metal with 80 grit on a DA. I like the tape on the can.
Really good ...Thank you...Bill
Hi Barry, I will be heading to your Amazon page. Love the paint cups. Great work as always. What’s next? Gary
Not sure.
great work ..
Excellent video with lots of helpful information. :-)
THANK YOU...for sharing. Very nice.
Nice work. Takes a long time to do ir right.
Very Nice! Super job on that project there. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thanks for your knowledge
Look great good job
I don't use liquid rust desolvers of any brand on panels because the liquid just runs off the panel and since these are water based, in hot days it quickly dries. In your case it worked just fine because it is very light surface rust. What I recommend your readers is to use a gel rust desolver because it sticks to the panel and does not slide off easily or dries like liquid. I personally use The Must For Rust by Krudd Kutter sold at walmart, Home Depot or just about anywhere. It is a sprayable gel that comes on a spray bottle and it is also a water based product that won't burn your skin on contact like a phosphoric metal etcher. In addition, I highly recommend not to rinse off the panel after treating with any rust desolver even thought waterbased rust desolvers instruct to use water. You will simply get surface rust right away, surface rust like your welded piece. Simply wipe it off with those blue shop paper towels. Then use acetone on another clean blue paper towel to wipe off any residue even if it's not visible. I follow with the chemical etcher also on a blue paper towel to rub it on the bare metal for about 5 minutes then wipe if off dry. The phosphoric etcher also helps to remove rust but I mainly use it because it treats the metal for the primer. The phosphoric etcher i use is by Klean Strip. Then I use an epoxy primer & I try to paint the panel asap. But hey my way is not the only way. Other products do the exact same thing. To each their own but I simply wanted to share my experience.
Thank you very detail
I was taught to tooth up the surface that your applying evercoat or filler too first with 80 grit on a da even bare metal on your first coat. Is that wrong or just preference. I was told it holds better to that than a smooth surface
It's more personal preference. I have done it both ways.
Great video!
Nice work
Great job
Faucforic acid is what all these products are they use it in farm fields also
Barry, I love these videos. I travel a lot for work so I have a lot of free time to watch your videos. Looking for a daddy daughter project, and I’m learning a lot from you. One question I have where do you buy the PPG shop line products. I can’t seem to find them anywhere online. Keep the awesome videos coming, thanks
Thanks. I but from the local PPG store.
Jo Daddy's Garage oh ok. Thanks very much for responding. I don’t have that any where near by. I do have a Sherwin Williams though.
you do a beautiful work you are a master
Phenomenal work as always!
I have a question. How do you avoid clogging up,sand paper? Seems like if I let it dry 3 hours, or 4 days, I can’t get more then 2 min before the sand paper is useless. No the bondo isn’t tacky or sticky. It’s solid and dry. But, this is 80g, 120g, 220... is that just nature of the beast? Or am I doing something wrong? I’m using normal bondo from Home Depot, and auto stores. In Colorado, so dry warm weather, even in winter. But I don’t bondo much in winter...
Also tape on the paint can!! Wow, that will help stay clean a ton! F’n GENIUS!
You're using actual bondo brand? Hate to say it, but that's the problem. Spend the money and get good materials. I use Evercoat Rage Ultra or Gold. I have links on my Amazon page which is in the description. Bondo brand is notorious for holding moisture. What brand of paper are you using?
Looking good
looks great
When doing the filler do you ever use a guide coat to show the highs and lows?
I normally don't.
The order to use filler 1st on bare metal then epoxy primer 2nd has to do with the quality of products you are using. if you are using cheap bondo brand filler on bare metal then epoxy the panel will probably rust down the line. the epoxy primer helps to seal out moisture but probably not enough to stop the absorption of moisture that cheap body fillers tend to do.
Yup, I'm still here lol - Just subbed.
great video!
Thank you Jo, Great video.I have done some body work / painting on my 68 Camaro, so I have a little knowledge. My next project is a 55 GMC pickup, the bed is single walled, how you go about fixing small rust holes, about the size of a pencils?
If the metal is solid enough around the hole, I weld it shut.
Thanks!
Best neutralizer is baking soda just use vinegar
Does that rust dissolver etch the metal? Does it protect the bare metal from rust for a while (weeks or months) until you can get it prime painted?
I do not believe it etches. I would apply epoxy primer.
hi nice work
Where is the inside of the fender? Outside looks nice!
On these classic mustangs, the inner fender is part of the car. They're called aprons, and attach to the frame rail and shock tower.
Where to you pick up the 3X Rust dissolver? Both Ebay and Amazon are out and don't a have future date. Wondering of something might have happened to distribution.
I think I got it at Summit racing. Did you check 3xchemistry.com
Thanks again!
Always great content. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. No one shows the little details like you do. Maybe you have been asked this before but what size air compressor do you use for your air tools? I will be starting my own 69 fastback project soon and I want to upgrade from my 8 gallon pool toy and tire inflator :)
I have a 60 gallon upright. Black Max. Been holding up for about 20 years, and I bought it used.
Hello, sir. My front fender has rot on the backside, so a patch panel of the type you used here won't work for me. Are you aware of a solution for that type of issue? I'd prefer to not replace the entire fender if I don't have to. Thanks again for your videos!
Can't guarantee how it fits, but they make those. www.mustangsunlimited.com/Mustang/Body/Fenders/Fender-Patch-Panels/Inner-Lower-Rear-Fender-Brace-Passenger-Side-1967-1968-Mustang.axd
When drilling sheet metal I use a step drill and you can use it sideways to elongate the hole . your tips on Rust removal is good for me because I own Rust , just look at my photo . Still here ? yes
Do you put any kind of Seam sealer on the back of the fender where the patch over hangs ?
Yes. I used evercoat brushable.
It's called " climb milling" you have to be very careful
Just one question, how much air pressure, can you use a 3 gallon 2.8 cfm.. compressor
That would be too small I believe. You need a lot more cfm. I use a 60 gallon compressor.