Can this Jaguar XJ6 be a Reliable Classic? Part 2: Mechanical Inspection
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ต.ค. 2021
- Well it's time for Part 2 and that means getting under the engine bay and then under the car and doing a stem to stern inspection. What will we find? Will we find hidden issues? Hidden rust? Hidden demons? Or will this Jag turn out to be pretty solid?
We also share some stories from my first car, that old Chevy 305 converted 1980 XJ I had as a kid.
Many more videos to come for this car, so subscribe to see more! - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
These are great videos. I own a series 3 XJ6 and this has been very interesting!
Using Simple Green with a spray bottle and a firm brush will help cut the oil and grease, The 1974- 78 kent wheels, Do look like Chevy Monty Carlo wheels, Same bolt Pattern, and lug size too. For a sporty look I Used the XJS CAC 4379 Starfish 15 x 6 wheels , POLY Steering Rack Bushings work well and last longer too.
Great inspection of this car. I have similar one (XJ6 Series III) which is before restoration.
This video give me better understanding what should be checked - thank you.
Kind regards - Jan.
More XJ6 videos please.
I replaced the steering rack in mine because of the leaks. I think the one I replaced was a rebuilt one though because there was no tag like on yours. I am glad you pointed out that it’s common that the rear crank seal in these cars leak; I need to check that on mine!
Just found this channel. Yes! Please more XJ6 content. I have a series 3
If you mirror polish them, the wheels can "pop". Once polished, you would want to coat them to keep from oxidizing (see the Harry's Garage XJ12C). The S tips on the exhaust are EXACTLY there for the reason you mentioned - preventing exhaust recirculation. . Issue was identified on the Series 1. Looks like you got a really clean example.
Awesome info, thank you! I'll check out Harry's garages XJ12C
Excellent vid, keep them coming. Btw original exhaust was never stainless. Also, the fuel sender unit is easily replaced by removing the tail lamp assy and extracting through the apeture.
Thanks! I really need to catch up as I have lots of video from working on this car. Not sure I did video on the sender but yes just as you stated it was a simple job through the tail light aperture. 😎
You are a lucky man! Great buy!
Really appreciate these videos. The tank senders are accessed via the rear lights, no need to remove the fuel tanks. Probably though you have a connector or wiring issue due to some corrosion. If it helps you, I can send you the original workshop manual and the spare parts catalog. The latter is very useful in understanding how all parts assemble due to the many exploded views.
Thanks! I ended up getting a reprinted Jag service manual that has lots of great detail. I did fix the sender - ended up replacing it and yep had forgotten they were accessed behind the tail light. In this case the sender arm was completely frozen. So replaced with new and gauge working great now. I'll have more videos soon, did a ton of service on the Jag over the winter and been learning a ton about it
The sender is probably stuck due to manky fuel and lack of use and the wheels are Kent alloys from the XJS
The TH-cam channel Living With A Classic can give you advice or pointers on one of these. He has experience with Jaguar and the engines
You can fit Teflontape to get the Drainplug tight. The same u use with Airtools.
Love the vids! Got a 76 SII. Any tips on the bonnet not staying closed, that'd be awesome. Alignment issue? Mine has two bars to keep it from twisting. Thx! 👍
3:40, That red Relay is not a relay. It is a Diode Pack. Three relays (main relay, cold start relay, and pump relay), and a diode unit are mounted on the engine rear bulkhead next to the vehicle battery. When the ignition key is turned on, the main relay is activated, connecting the battery circuit to the ballast resistors and the injectors. The relay also allows current to flow to the ECU and the pump switch on the air-flow meter. When the engine is cranked for starting, the diode unit is activated and thus energizes the auxiliary air valve, the cold start system and the fuel pump. Credit for this info goes to the Jaguar Club of North America
Great info, thank you!
Hi - only just came across youre channel, very interesting. This is a in depth 'walk around'. Hope you're able to show us a bit to do with the repairs. Looks like an excellent basis. Do you intend keeping the paint & trim original. So many ???'s id luv to ask but just impossible
Ive admired Jaguars...from a distance. I think they're more possibly a mechanic's joy rather than the average persons ownership, most interesting thanks
Got plenty of videos I'll be editing and posting! Today just did the first start after a major service and refresh under the bonnet. Lots of ignition service, all rubber hoses, new coolant, and other bits. Have been learning a lot about this car and it's been fun so far.
I do for now plan to keep the paint and trim original. It's all in good enough shape, though the paint is getting a bit cracked in some areas, it still looks very nice. Paint and trim is only original once, and anything less than a full restoration level repaint would not do it justice. So for now, keeping as is. Though I may eventually repair some of the rust on the lower valence in the rear, before it spreads, which means that part would need to be properly paint matched.
Hoping it can be a good driver and a very nice survivor.
They also don't like 90 fuel