Cheap Versus Good Projector Lamps for DLP/LCD Video Projectors
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ต.ค. 2019
- I decided to do this video after seeing a lot projector problems being caused by replacement lamps. I have received enough emails and comments where the issue ends up being a problem with a new and inexpensive lamp.
I then figured it would be helpful to compare two lamps. Both the same part number.
One lamp was $146.50 shipped.
The other was $79.99 shipped.
Both claim to use the Original manufacturer lamp inside the housing.
You can definitely get deals on OEM or OEM quality lamps for less than the popular online stores but you need to know where you can safely trade off and what to look for to make sure you're not wasting your money or putting your projector at risk.
There are certain things to look for when buying a lamp online.
Hopefully this gives you the info to buy the best lamp for the price you want to spend.
If you wanted to buy the Good lamp in the video you can do so here. www.projectorlamps.com/viewso... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
fantastic! My projector's previous owner stuck a cheap bulb in. now im trying to identify it and this video helped massively!
Glad it helped!
Thank you Frank! You nailed it, I had a defective green lense. As soon as I put the old lense back in, it worked like a charm!
Wonderful to hear! I'm very glad it worked out for you.
You're sir so correct. Got my bulb replaced. Got issues. Tries googling around and end up here in comment section of your video telling my sad story 😂😂😂😂
Im glad you have a solution though! It bothers me so much that these are sold with those lenses. So many people probably gave up.
Very much appreciated. Learned something new for sure. Rule of thumb to me is don't buy it because it's cheaper but rather do some research and buy OEM from a reputable manufacturer. Cheaper often times equals low quality junk.
FINALLY FIXED IT, THANK YOU!!!
Been chasing this "flickering" & shutdown problem with my BenQ HT3050 for weeks, went through two aftermarket housings and one "OEM" bulb even getting a new color wheel & sensor from China. When my original bulb popped, it scorched the inside of the glass filter in the housing, which prompted me to get a new complete assembly (plus, it's way easier to just drop a new one in).
Waddya know - the aftermarket "IR filter" was just a clear piece of glass. Fortunately, the filter from the old assembly cleaned up nicely and after I slotted it in, the projector worked perfectly again. SCIENCE!
Great job!! I see those awful bad filters cause people so many problems. I am glad to hear it works finally! Enjoy the projector
Excellent informative video on bulbs. I will buy cheaper bulbs if i cant locate a used OEM for some projectors but always use the original case that blown bulb was in. Frank was able to help me with an issue with color wheel acting crazy on unit i had just replaced bulb on. It turned out to be the coating on lense housing of cheap replacement. Use OEM whenever you can , but always use the oem housing at least....
I saved a couple of person showing this tour video. Thanks Frank!
Fantastic! It's just not worth a junk projector lamp.
Super helpful video. I have a discontinued Epson Home Cinema 2030 with only 2600 hours on it. Thinking about getting a new lamp soon as well as an Epson 4010 for a dual setup. Use the 2030 for TV and gaming and using the 4010 for movies and major sporting events like the Super Bowl.
Hi frank. Thanks for the great videos! I have a Benq w710st. I haven't seen you do a video on one. This video is exactly what I did. Replaced the lamp with a no name one and it blew in 4 days. I took it apart to check the ballast and that looks fine. I'm cleaning the unit out and the fans seem fine (no short). The website you recommend for lamps only has the assembly and I just want the lamp (5J.J5105.001). They list the lamp as an Osram 220 watt (no part number), however my ballast is a 240 watt. Any suggestions on how to find the proper Osram Lamp?
Hello and thank you for the info! I have a BenQ HT2050 and need a color wheel replacement. Is the the W1070 compatible with the 2050? There are many of the 1070 ones but difficult to find new HT2050 ones (unless of course they are both compatible) so I am hoping that might be the case. Thank you!
My benq ht2050/w1110 did the same thing too. Got my bulb replaced then it started dimly with this weird greenish tint to the image. Then as it goes brighter the green tint fades away and the default menu colors started to show up. Then a minute or so the image flickers intensely follow up by automatic shutdown. Then my power button would blinking red telling that there is something wrong with my bulb. I'm suspecting that my newer cheap bulb is the culprit!
Very interesting video. Thank you .
You are very welcome! I see too many instances of amazon and other marketplaces allowing junk to be advertised as a good option and it is not. Most of the inexpensive lamps are not worth the boxes they are packed into. I am a little biased but I also see the damage and problems the knock off lamps cause.
in my case its strange my epson Fhd lcd projektor with organic lcd panels i tested two epson original elp49 (osram) and after 3-4 hours it gets bad with red an yelow tints, typical bad panels. but when i change to a 20 dollar china lamp slowly picture come back as new. I think it is becouse the china lamp is a little cooler. it is an epson tw3500 i tink the name in the usa is PowerLite Home Cinema 8100. it is 9 years old with 1400 total hours.
I just replaced my lamp and housing and purchased bulk x4 $250 lamps ,one blew after only 1:30 minutes im here now ive found the infrared color wheel part i needed ,now im convinced its an glass lense coating problem.
if they came from jasper or amazon, that would make a lot of sense. They are well known for cutting corners like that. good luck, I hope you can find a solution. If you have the old lamp, you can swap that lens into one to make sure.
@@FixitFrank im using an AM philips lamp replacement, it has a high quality bulb and better soldered filament attached to a small wire slot with a tight fit instead of the acer filaments loose construction,ive watched multiple movies through it including mad max 4k and cop city but with a blue tint through the whole movie due to the faulty lamp housing glass ,i purchased the proper glass parts today and even opted for high quality lamp connectors ,thanks for the information i never wouldve guessed the knock-off green glass an bad lamp connector was the problem ,im using an acer h7850 UHD and had it since 2018 the problems started when the acer bulb blew out.
Im using an Optoma H7850 platinum philips bulb from Discount-Merchant.
ahh DM. thats Mitech. I like how they call them "platinum" bulbs when they are all the same. did you happen to check the lens on the lamp yet? I have seen DM sell lamps like that. I recommend companies like Pureland supply or Myprojectorlamps. The rest are kind of a gamble.
Hi. Where can I find a original optoma HD20 lamp.? Thanks.
Fantastic demonstration and great video! When I come to replace my lamp, I definitely know to only ever buy a genuine/original lamp only (of which I already planned to before, as it's best to be on the safe side). 😁👍 Going by this, these cheap lamps are terrible. Although I noticed the most trusted lamp retailer in my country sell two types. "Original bulb in original housing" and "Original bulb in compatible housing", with the former being slightly more expensive. When I one day come to replace my lamp, which one would you go for?
Also thanks for the educational tip on the UV/IR window too. I recently deep cleaned my HD131X/HD25 and when I took out the lamp, I noticed that window had a lot of dust build up on it. You mentioned it has coatings on it. How durable would you say those coatings are? It's just that I gave the window in mine a wipe down on both sides with a microfiber lens cleaning cloth (I didn't use any solutions or cleaners, just a dry cloth) to remove the dust. Would you say that the coatings would still be fine? (the glass still had the same slight blue-ish tint looking directly through it like before after cleaning it) 🤔 I've had no issues with my projector since and a few months have gone by now.
Original bulb in compatible housing is perfectly fine as long as it has the proper IR/UV cut filter. There is a company from Taiwan called APO who makes third party products who is fantastic. If the seller you have found offers APOG products, then you are in good shape.
Hi Frank. Thanks for the video. I need to replace the lamp on my Epson 5040UB projector. Any suggestions on where to get a quality replacement? The real OEM bulbs seems to be unavailable right now.
You're welcome! I see it on Epson US site. $330 for the V13H010L89. There are aftermarket options that use Osram bulbs rather than the OEM Iwasaki Bulbs. The Osram bulbs seem to perform as well. Projectorlamps.com, Bulbsolutions.com carry the Osram version. Here is the link to the epson site just in case. epson.com/Accessories/Projector-Accessories/ELPLP89-Replacement-Projector-Lamp-Bulb/p/V13H010L89
Very interesting. I run a drum scanner myself (pro film gear from the 90s) and it just uses plain Osram 12V 75W bulbs (good thing too since the lamps die after like 50 hours of running in it). The IR filters are very tricky on those devices as well. sadly unlike the very nice looking filter in that bulb you showed people opted for cheaper filters that wear with age on the very expensive scanners. Luckily the filters aren't part of a lens unit, they are deeper in the optical system.
On the green coating, that is most likely a cheap AR coating.
I think you are right. I have seen that green coating work on occasion but it degrades quickly. The other coating is definitely applied with sputtering. What bulb do you use? the 64617?
@@FixitFrank I just checked and my current stock is 64615. I should compare models some day to see if it affects the results.
i have a 2007 Misubishi DLP TV...bought it for 3 grand in 2007....amazing unit...over the years, the bulbs have started to go faster and faster...they used to last years but now they last months or weeks...we used to get our bulbs from high-end places but we've been using Amazon lately...Honestly, is there a difference in quality...and what happens to all of our old lamps when we recyle them...Thank you sooo much
Pastor Mike
Hi Pastor Mike, Most likely you have some dust build up on the fan near the door of where the lamp housing goes. Depending on your TV, you might need a cleaning and then make sure you only use Osram or Philips lamp assemblies. $80-100 you should get a decent product. Sadly Amazon seems to be a cesspool with a few decent sellers. BulbSolutions is a good amazon seller. They would provide a reliable lamp assembly. But like I said, you need to make sure you have good airflow. Another known issue is color wheel failure. IF you hear a whining or see the colors flicker before it shuts down, thats your color wheel going bad. Very replaceable. With DLP TVs, as long as the DLP Chip/DMD is OK, you can more or less keep these running for years.
@@FixitFrank Here's what I did...I bought an auxillary fan and taped it to the intake port after replacing the bulb...the 1080hd picture has returned...these tv's were truly ahead of their time...Thank you soooo much
Hi! Your videos about projectors are very helpful!) Can you help me with one thing? My bulb exploded and I want to replace it but keep a module. However there are some micro dots on IR glass you showing at 18:51. I don't know was it there before explosion or it's a damage because of explosion. So my question is - will this microdots disturb a light quality or picture quality with new bulb? Can't attach photo of a glass.
Probably not. As long as the glass itself is in tact, it should be okay. Little pits and splatter marks are not a huge deal. I would still look at replacing the entire housing as soon as possible or maybe buy a used one and put the glass in it but I dont see any concerns unless it has actual holes.
Hi Frank,
thanks for the video. I see you mentioned some recommendations for 3rd party Brands like Osram and Phillips and others? Do you have recommendations for reputable vendors who offer these?
I do! www.projectorcentral.com/projector-lamp.htm Any of the vendors listed here are reliable in my experience. Whoever has the best price and best reviews will be your best option. Just be sure your projector is out of warranty. In the USA, you have to use OEM from the manufacturer until its out of warranty(or at least save the original lamp assembly to include if you need a warranty repair).
There are really only 3 aftermarket manufacturers out there. In descending order, APO Lamps, Diamond lamps and then MiTech. APO makes the best aftermarket lamps in my opinion. They even make some OEM but they wont say for who. I think its BenQ since they are both in Taiwan. Diamond is fine but they have a lower amount of models available. They also tend to have lamp timer chip issues sometimes. MiTech is the last. They are "fine" but basically the cheapest of the bunch in both price and quality. They do use original Philips bulbs inside but I have had questionable luck and experience with their products. You see them as Discount merchant online. The sellers in the link I posted, mostly sell APO lamps with diamond and MI as the backups.
Frank I believe it would be wiser to buy the bare bulb and eliminate a sub-par housing
Hi Greg! It can be depending on the specific situation. There are a lot of times its not worth it though. Many times the cost difference between a bare bulb and housing is minimal , $20-30. That can save a lot of hassle and potential mistakes for someone who isn't good with tools. for folks like you, who know what they doing it can make a lot of sense. There are also cases where lamps have built in timer modules that must be specially programmed to record the hours and run again. Those need a new housing for most people.
A good example is my HT1075. I put a new bulb in the housing. That worked out. I replaced the two housings in my Projection Design Dvision 30XL though because of the timer modules. But that is why I made the video. If folks are educated on the topic, they can make the best choice for their projector and their situation. Thanks again for watching! I really appreciate it.
Did you ever find out what the last bit of a lampcode is and how to measure it? You mention this at 3:45. I did some measurements too, but did not find that the reflector radius is correct to the number.
Not officially no. I've found some that it seems to apply to and others where it doesn't. Honestly it's been off my radar but since you mentioned it, I'll see if I can get in touch with someone I know from Philips.
You rock Frank. I just pulled the lamp out a Panasonic ae2000 and no coating on lens at all yet it’s an LCD not DLP. Is coating only needed for DLP pj’s? I just bought off eBay super cheap and it works for now yet no markings at all. Looks like a garbage lamp maybe…
Thank you! LCD is a little different. They tend to have the filter inside the projector. However you do want to make sure the bare lamp is of good quality. Substandard cement in the ceramic can be electrically conductive. If it has an Osram brand bare lamp inside and the wires are attached with screws, they you are probably okay. Being that the projector is an older model, your options are limited. www.purelandsupply.com/panasonic-projector-lamp_pt-ae2000.html This one is $129.40(as of this post) and uses an Osram. the OEM is a MAtsushita but they don't make it anymore(and not for a while). If you image is good and you don't see any discoloring, I would keep running it. When I made this video almost 4 years ago, the market was much different. We are rapidly approaching the "buy what you can if it works" market as many of the big names are no longer making many of the bare lamps.
Short version, you are probably okay. Keep an eye on it and if the picture starts to look weird, it might be wise to buy a slightly better lamp. Thanks so much for watching!
that is interesting because in the manufacturing process it should be easier to do a red or blue coating than a green coating. A green coating needs at least two different metal coatings and red/blue needs just one. Not super sure why/how.
Its because of the sputtering metals used. It is not the color that causes the operation but the materials sputtered onto the glass. I am not sure of the type of metal used. I have heard that nickel is used for the low quality "green coating" but I am not sure. Sputtering I do understand as a process, but not the way the metals are chosen for the coating. If you know about this, I would love to learn more.
@@FixitFrank This is all I know. th-cam.com/video/iwj78pR46zM/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=AppliedScience
Very interesting, thank you. Any good places to buy good quality lamps in Europe? The store you mention doesn't deliver outside US.
www.myprojectorlamps.eu/contactus.html These guys also sell APO lamps
) @FixitFrank Thank you so much. I saw there's even a Switzerland store. :)
Hi Frank. Excellent video and channel, so thanks for taking the time and effort to teach us all! Do you know of anywhere I am able to buy the the infrared filter glass separately? Or a known good aftermarket housing with a correctly coated filter for a Benq W1070? After my first lamp died dramatically years ago I replaced the whole housing with a well-reviewed afternarket unit. The replacement worked well enough and long enough that I foolishly threw out my original genuine housing. Ever since I have been through a couple of fake lamps and a supposedly genuine OSRAM whilst retaining that first aftermarket housing and filter. It has periodically suffered from colour flickering followed by shutting down. I have stripped down, checked and removed dust from the projector a few times. I even replaced the colour wheel and ballast but only now found this video. Just checked the filter in the housing and it has a really poor green coating which stops no noticable infrared from a remote. I find it strange that this could have caused problems after hundreds or thousands of hours of use and not constantly but running out of things to check or replace. I can see that it is bad so worth a shot I guess?
Sorry for the late reply. There are a few options. IR block filter glass is on search term to use. Also, "used 5J.J7L05.001" on eBay. DWallen on eBay tends to sell a lot of used/good lamps. If you are in the states, send me an email and I can help (its on the about page).
Is relamping a projector using the original housing and a cheap lamp a bad idea? I’ve got a Vivitek D952HD and Dell S500WI.
ehhh... I am not a fan of knock off lamps. I see a lot of problems that were caused by them. That said, it really comes down to what you can afford. Sometimes you have to do what you need to. Personally I would buy an aftermarket lamp in housing for the Vivitek. www.purelandsupply.com/vivitek-projector-lamps_d952hd.html This is a good lamp. It is basically the same as the original lamp but a lot less in price. The IR filter on those lamp housings does wear out and the vivitek is a decent projector. The Dell S500wi has a funky housing, and at around $170 for a third party aftermarket like the Vivitek, I am on the fence. What I would recommend if you want to go lamp only is to use name brand lamps. Buy a Philips lamp for the Dell, and an Osram lamp for the Vivtek and you would be OK. Check prices though. Sometimes you only save $20-25 between the full housing and the lamp. In my opinion the hassle and new IR filter are worth the $25. The only thing I would recommend against is buying a no-name lamp. They tend to fail early and you will end up replacing them more often than a real brand and that ends up costing you more in the long run. Also, on the Vivitek, look up my Polyvision PJ905 cleaning video. Its the same chassis and these have a known problem with dust build up in the lamp blower fan due to where they cram it in the projector case.
I recently replaced a lamp in my BenQ W7500 using an aftermarket vendor who sold the lamp and housing. It looked great but no IR coating. Anyways the projector would turn on and shut it down after a minute or two. Fortunately, I had an old OEM housing still in tact, and was able to replace the new bulb in the old housing and it worked like a charm. One thing I'm really wondering about though- the new housing had the two wires in the opposite polarity of the original. It made me really wonder, do these lamps have a preferred polarity?
I can definitely help. Polarity isn't much of an issue as these are AC lamps. for the DC Ushio and phoenix it does matter for osram/philips not so much. The problem is the lamp assembly. Using a lamp assembly without the correct IR coating is the fastest way to ruin your projector. If it was from jaspertronics, or amazon, send it back. They are pure garbage and will ruin your projectors. There are only a handful of companies worth buying from these days. The rest are all selling pure trash in my opinion. I have repaired so many projectors damaged by lamps from jaspertonics and amazon. I don't know how they are still in business.
www.projectorcentral.com/projector-lamp.htm Anyone in that link, BHPhoto.com,and Bulbsolutions.com should be safe to buy from. That IR filter is an absolute must. I just repaired an Optoma HD20 that had its shape lens melted by a bad ir filter from jasper.
The reason your projector is shutting down is the IR light is flooding the color wheel sensor. That means it is also heating up the plastic lenses inside the optical assembly. That filters job is to keep the excessive IR heat from getting into the optics.
www.purelandsupply.com/benq-lcd-projector-lamp_w7500.html If you want to buy a good one, this is an option. You can use code YT50 to get 5% off.
Also, if you end up needing an iris for your 7500 I think I have one from the W6000 on my shelf. My email is listed on the about page if you want to get in touch.
Thanks for watching!
@@FixitFrank Thanks for this advice! I did get a Jasper case but the lamp looked really good. I haven't checked it for the AM prefix yet. That's really interesting about the light sensor after the IR window. I really like changing the bulb only and keeping the casing but my lamps were exploding at under 2000 hours. The last was 1830. I went through the steps of your cleaning video and cleaned out about 4 oz of lint and dust. That final exhaust fan after the tunnel from the main lamp seems to be the Achilles heel of these BenQs. I've had W3000, W5000, and W7500. Also "high altitude" mode makes the fans run faster (louder) and the lamps last longer.
If you bought it from them, I would seriously suggest returning it. I just repaired an Optoma that had a burned shape lens. I am almost 100% sure that is your problem. I recommend purelandsupply.com myself. They cost a bit more but they will work properly.
Hey Frank, you have a great channel! I'm a computer tech myself but recently started to explore general electronic repair since I'm getting bored of doing the same thing all the time. This time got a Mitsubishi projector for repair and was puzzled by it displaying the "temperature" warning and shutting down, even after extensive dusting inside. This video helped me connect the problem with a low-quality lamp that had been installed by the client. Still not 100% sure since I'll have to order a new lamp before I can test it. Would you think the symptoms are clear enough to be certain? The bulb itself has no branding or anything written on it whatsoever, the lens seems to have the green tint rather than blue/red, and there is a burnt point in the lense. Also when the projector is working, for about a minute there is flickering accompanied by irregular faint clicking noise (initially I thought this might be a ballast or power supply capacitors issue but now thinking that maybe this points to the color wheel being swamped with IR?). I am very thankful to you for sharing all this information, saved me so much time. If you have any questions re. computer repair, including component-level, I'll be glad to give back some of my experience in that field. I also know a bit about professional and hi-fi audio equipment repair in case you would ever need help with that.
Hi Anton! Thanks so much! It sounds like you and I have a lot in common. I also used to work on a bit of pro/high end AV gear. I still dabble for myself but not as much as I used to. My day job is part of the IT world as well. I also do these repairs and other things tangentially related. You will have no problem repairing this I am sure. If I can do it, going by your skill set, you can definitely do it. DLP projectors are a lot of fun to work on.
What is the model of the Mitsi? Knowing that will steer me better with suggestions.
As far as the lamp you are likely right. The green IR coating is pretty ineffective. The spot in the middle is caused by the heat from the end of the arc tube. There should be a vent duct on the side directing air towards the tip of the arc tube(called burner). If the vent is missing/not aligned it will let the heat blast the lens, causing that spot. Another cause is a weak air stream from the blower fan. If they have their old lamp, it might be worth putting back in. That way you are starting with an original set of problems. If there is no new lamp, you do want another to rule that out. The bad coating can flood the IR sensor. Once it shuts down you get a lamp warning and most folks think its a bad lamp.
The clicking might be the ballast re-striking. With a poor quality lamp you can have all sorts of weird problems. The clicking could also be the color wheel. Its basically a 2 pole stepper driving a small flywheel. To adjust the speed, the controller might change the PWM signal causing the wheel to snap to a new speed after starting to slow down. Then once it can't lock onto the proper speed it will turn off the lamp and go into lamp error mode. The wheel itself might also be going bad. If it was dusty, it might be time. I wouldn't worry about that though until you have a good lamp to put in. I have my email in the about section too if you need it.
Edit: I somehow missed the temp warning mention. Check my video on the WD720. That might be the same problem with the blower fan.
@@FixitFrank Thanks for the comprehensive reply! The mitsu is a HC3900. "Do you still have the old lamp" was my first question - but alas, they don't. I don't know the exact history of the device but I believe the client bought it second hand and first thing they replaced the lamp and threw away the original one without even testing it. The puzzling thing about the flickering and the clicking is that it is not a constant issue - it starts a few minutes after power-on, goes on for about a minute, then stops and the device seems to be working fine for about an hour after that. Then at some point it displays the "temperature" warning and then it shuts down. There are no other warnings displayed. The device has 4 fans and all of them seem to be working fine, including the one that blows air into the lamp. The lamp's housing seems indistinguishable from some pictures I found online. Can't tell whether the air guides are properly aligned or not but at least they look very similar to the pictures. Will go watch the video you pointed to.
@@FixitFrank I'm wondering where the temperature sensor is located? I found a heatshrinked thingy next to the lamp and thought that would be the thermocouple but after measuring it, that looks like a thermal fuse. Also I'm wondering what are the nominal temperatures for the device? I checked the temperature of the lamp's housing after it shut down with a thermal camera, it was about 120C. Can't tell whether this is normal or not.
@@FixitFrank OMG the WD720 there has been through a hell and a half. Good job on fixing all that! It's a joy to see how you work, honestly. The HC3900 in question is very similar to the WD720 but it's not nearly in such a bad shape. At least nothing is burnt (except for the minor filter burn). No optics damage etc. The client did try to open it, too, broke some plastics, broke a connector, but nothing serious. That's where having a ton of donor laptop motherboards comes in handy as you can find most types of connectors there. Your video also gave me an answer to my question re. where the sensors are located. Turns out these are the heatshrinked blobs at the end of what I initially took for wires connecting the board to the chassis ground. Still not clear to me what's the mechanism upon which a low-quality lamp could produce so much more heat, to a degree where it will make the projector detect overheating. Could this only be attributed to the IR that's not being filtered out? Or is there something wrong with the bulb, causing it to convert more energy into heat?
Ah, If its running that long and then shutting down. I would wait for the new lamp. like you thought the IR coating keeps the IR radiation inside the lamp so it can have its heat vented by the air being pushed in my the turbine fan and then exhausted by the fan next to it. If the IR block coating is not working, then the heat will get into the optics and other areas causing it to shut down.
The only other area of interest would be that blower/turbine fan that feeds air into the lamp. Make 100% sure the fan blades are clear of dust. Small amount or coating isn't an issue. These are designed to run with some dust as its unavoidable. The problem occurs when the dust builds up to the point to where the fan blade geometry is compromised and the blades can no longer feed the air properly. The fan will spin, registering the tachometer info properly but the temp will still increase. You will see that the fan is pretty easy to clean. You might need to split the case halves of the fan but hopefully not and just some air will get it clean. If that fan is clean and the rest are running, I would try the new lamp first and see if that resolves the overheating first. If not, then we can check a few other things.
Thanks for this video. I just brought a used Benq pb6100 projector from a friend at work. With just 660 hours on the bulb.
I plug it in and tested it. And low and behold, I was watching a video and it made a clicking sound and bulb flickered abit. Just like you said in this video. It kind of arched. I thought it may need a color wheel but the orginal owner got the wheel cleaned in 2003.
Do you think it's safe just to pull that bulb out and get a new one?I believe I have one of those generic bulbs in my projector.
You're very welcome! It's hard to say. Is the lamp led flashing? 16 years is pretty old for a color wheel. It might be an issue but I always say its better to change the lamp first. You are definitely safe to change the lamp. It might even be more than 660 hours as he may have reset the timer at some point without changing the lamp. Id recommend checking the manual for the LED blink codes and then I'd try a new lamp. If it still makes a noise after that, then the color wheel is worth looking into. The 6100 is a decent PJ. I wouldn't put too much money into it though. They are only 800 x 600 but will scale to 1080i so it's worth some time/effort.
Short version :try a new lamp first. Part # is 60.J8618.CG1. Be sure it is using an Ushio brand bulb inside, and I am pretty sure it needs to have the IR block coating. Check your old lamp to be sure. Some of the older projectors had the IR filter built into the optics.
@@FixitFrank Actually I looked again. I ment to say it had 66 hours. Lol. He didn't hardly used it. But like you said, you never know if it's been reset. I'm going take you advise and just play along with it. It's not worth putting alot of money into it. It works great through so I'll keep my fingers crossed. Thanks for your honesty. 😊 Have a good day
@@FixitFrank IR block coating are on the new lens or is it a part I have to buy?
@@conboyd it's part of the lens. The glass will have a slight red/blue coating when you look at it from an angle. It' ll be very obvious. In this video I show what it should look like. I think it's about halfway through.
I’ve always purchased , bare bulbs (osram ) for my hd20 , never had a problem and way less $
I have a Sony VPL-VW295ES. My projector would shut off and flash red three times. I went ahead and cleaned all the fans and projector worked fine for a little over a week. Same thing happened today. My lamp is most likely due to be replaced. Question is what are your thoughts on bulb only replacement and using original housing? Your thoughts on a brand/seller Lutema on Amazon manufactured by MI Technologies? Thanks for your help
I had to repair an Optoma projector that was ruined by a 'lutema' lamp. I wouldn't touch any lamp unless it was made by Philips, Osram,ushio or phoenix. These knock off lamps littering Amazon are destroying projectors from what I see. Between the poorly made assemblies with incorrect IR filters and the lamps being made with conductive cement it's a bad scene. I know mi well. Not bad people but they build to a price point rather than quality.
www.purelandsupply.com/sony-projector-lamp_vpl-vw295es.html this is using a proper Philips lamp inside. If you can get the same Philips lamp you can swap it out. I'd suggest looking over your housing first. Make sure it's not cracked or suffering from heat damage. If not then you can replace just the bare lamp. That 295es is Really nice! At the least get a good Philips bulb. That's a quality projector and kind of deserves the treatment if you know what I mean.
@@FixitFrank thanks for the reply and the recommendation. Does it hurt if I use a model up let’s say a LMP H230 instead of LMP H220? Does that hurt anything?
@@djara6890 Yes, it won't work reliably if at all. It's a different lamp made for other models. It's not really a model up as its made for units that use a different ballast. That uses an Ushio lamp and the LMPH220 uses a Philips. Different ignition voltages, color profiles etc. There is no such thing as an upgraded lamp. The projectors sets the brightness via the ballast so even if you got a 230W lamp to work, it will only be running at 220W. I'd have to pull the lamps and compare them in depth to really find all the variances, but its always best to use the lamp that was made for that model.
@@FixitFrank you are awesome my friend and very knowledgeable.
@@djara6890 Thanks man. I appreciate that! If you do end up buying a full lamp via that link, use code YT50 to get 5% off. Otherwise just make sure you find that Philips bulb and you will be fine.
Could I just swap the glass to the cheaper new bulb housing?
Sure. As long as the housing isn't that cruddy pot metal you can. The main goal is to block the bad IR radiation and have proper cooling. as long as you reach those goals you can do pretty much whatever you need to. Depending on your time/money available, it is usually easier for people just to buy the right thing at the get-go, but for those who are able to modify the housings and understand the needs, you can make some cheap lamps work fine.
Frank I have a veiw sonic pro 8500 currently shopping for a bulb and housing been online looking around for a good aftermarket who do u recommend
I have an affinity to these folks. www.purelandsupply.com/viewsonic-projector-lamp_pro8500.html or www.projectorlamps.com/viewsonic-projector-lamp_pro8500.html. Also www.bulbsolutions.com/products/rlc-059 They all sell the same brand but Bulbsolutions is a tiny bit cheaper. They all have proper Osram bulbs with the correct IR block coating on the lens and will treat your Pro8500 properly. Be sure to give it a little cleaning when you have the lamp out. Maybe get some air into the blower fan housing to loosen any stuck in dust.
Thx I'll give it a shot
Thanks for the video man :D .btw i bought a used projector for 70$ usd , NEC np-pe401h. and the projector is working perfectly . but there is only 32% lamp life. and planning to replace it . and i really dont know anything in projectors.i found some for 60-100$ on amazon and the official site for 336$ ? what is the different? , and do i need to use the one that the official site are selling to get the best performance ?
Amazon lamps are very hit or miss. Mostly miss. You definitely don't need the $336 lamp though. While a complex lamp, you should be able to get one for under $200 that is just as good as the Official lamp from NEC. Something like this www.projectorlamps.com/nec-lcd-projector-lamp_np24lp.html would be a good start. Also check the lamp sales companies on Projector Central. www.projectorcentral.com/lamp-suppliers.htm Any of these sites are decent.
I got a used E-Vision DLP when I turn it on nothing comes up the fan blows and color wheel spins. Turns out the lamp is broken any recommendations on where to order a replacement Lamp?
I forgot to mention it’s a E-Vision 4500 and we want to use it for home movies.
That is a NICE projector. I am envious! www.purelandsupply.com/digital-projection-bulbs_115-130.html This is the lamp you need(or rather the 2 lamps you need). Another lamp # is 114-786(same as the 115-130).
what is the difference in an Osram p-VIP vs a Philips UHP? i cant decide what i need to get for my DLP tv.
They are basically the same for a TV. They both make similar lamps. Your best bet is to buy whatever is recommended for your TV. What is the make/model?
@@FixitFrank thank you. I have a Mitsubishi WD73735 which I think is the Oram p-vip
Nice! Yes, osram is the original but a philips would be equally (actually slightly better) fine. I'd go with whichever is cheaper. Philips is actually a better brand. But the osram lamp used in the 915b403001 is fine.
In short, either will work perfectly for you but I would buy whoever is cheaper. If you end up at purelandsupply.com you can use YT50 code for 5% off. But anyone selling a philips or osram loaded lamp housing is fine. Just watch out for ones that are too cheap. Philips Bare lamp is about $40-55 cost(premarkup). Osram bare lamp is maybe $30-40. Housings are roughly $15-20. If you see a full assembly for less than $65-70 I'd be very suspicious of the quality.
@@FixitFrank thank you sir. I will remember that in the future. My tv is old, perhaps I'll stock up on a few bare bulbs. When you say the Philips is slightly better, in what ways exactly. Im kind of a nerd about these things is why i ask. I appreciate your responses!
The best analogy is Philips is kind of the BMW or Mercedes of lamps. Osram is Chevy/GM. Philips has better quality control. I have seen Osram make some really dumb decisions in the past. If you get time, google Osram Neolux projector lamps. They also use that name for automotive stuff, but 5? years ago, they tried selling their lamps that had failed spec testing as "neolux" as a way to compete with compatible lamps from China. They claimed they were "about as good as PVIP" which shot their PVIP brand in the head and totally diluted the brand. There was one TV lamp(P22 120W) that would fail for no reason. Turned out they made the burners wrong in the PVIP and still sold them as neolux. Osram then made an Epson eTorl replacement lamp (ETORL is Iwasaki eye tech) and it was good until they decided to add screw terminals which made it harder to fit in Epson housings. Osram seems to be full of good ideas with bad implementation, or bad ideas that are implemented well or bad ideas implemented poorly. Its like the left hand doesn't care what the right hand it doing. I did a few videos on bulbs/lamps specifically. If you search my videos for "lamps" I think they show up together.
Are there any aftermarket brands you do like?
APOG is the best in my opinion. Diamond was 'okay'. Some of their stuff was fine, some of it was not good. there are also some decent chinese companies building stuff for some of the resellers in the US. Basically if its on amazon, be suspicious and if its really cheap, be suspicious. www.projectorcentral.com/projector-lamp.htm anyone listed on here is worth checking. See who has the best price and best reviews and you should be fine.
Have a 92 " Mitsubishi dlp . I wish someone would make a led replacement that lasted longer. I've replaced lamps and after a short they all seem to start Deming. I think a led version would last longer. Hate to replace the TV it cost me 4000 dollars.
If you have one of the original 92" sets, you probably have a lot of dust build up in the fan areas. Heat is the main cause of early lamp failure or dimming. I would clean the dust out of the set and make sure you use an original Osram lamp in the housing and you should get quite a lot of use out of it. That said, you may have a failing fan or fans as well. TVs are a tough device to repair because Mitsubishi stopped offering parts after 7 years from manufacture.
@@FixitFrank looks like I will have to buy a new 4k TV
I think that will serve you best. For what its worth, while expensive, Sony seems to be top notch these days. Visio on the other hand, I would not touch with a 20ft pole.
Pliz send us the link where you bought the better lamp
It's in the description at the bottom
hi is there a part number for the red IR filter?
There not that I am aware of. It's part of the lamp assembly. I find them sometimes listed as ND filter and by it's size in millimeters. Which lamp assembly are you looking for?
@@FixitFrank I bought a "Angrox" lamp on Amazon and its flixkering and turning off just after a few months. I figured its the IR filter like in your videos
I can't stand amazon and how they let companies sell these junk lamp assemblies. There are some reputable sellers but they get buried and mixed in with the junk. Bulbsolutions is the only lamp seller on amazon I trust.
@@FixitFrank Thanks for the help.
is Dekain
Manufacturer Dekain
Part Number ELP-LP97 a real deal? soo confused
Sounds like a fake to me. If it isn't using an Osram lamp inside or Eye Iwasaki, its a knock off. If you are in the states, www.purelandsupply.com/epson-projector-lamp_elplp97.html Use code YT50 for $5 off. This has an Osram inside and a 6mo warranty.
@@FixitFrank can i refund it on amazon ? when it comes ?
My understanding is that you can return anything to amazon. They might not even want it back. If you click on help and then 'more help' you can get a chat link open to talk to a rep at amazon. That might be your best bet. Maybe they can stop it before it gets to you.
@@FixitFrank yep i bought 2 from your link , i do remember in 1980s i went to flee market and thier was a whole china knock off market on nike shoes and shirts and boomboxes this is same type of thing . they make a fake account on amazon thier not checking for offical parts ?? this like facebook currently big whale of company unable to weed out problems.
Don't get me started... Between FB and amazon, the scammers and grifters are making a fortune.
i ordered 2 lamps on amazon from china dealers , amazon is evil...why on earth are they allowed to sell projectors with discontinued projectors no original bulbs soo annoyed $211 i looked up the discontinued bulb on epson thier are $50 each
Epson and amazon drive me up a wall with that stuff. My day job is in the lamp industry and we wont sell on amazon because of how misleading they are. I share your frustations!
Just buy the cheap and swap the infared lense....lol
Why? What's the point of owning a nice projector and then putting junk parts in it? The lens is only one problem.
Great video, but don't touch your bulbs with bare hands like this guy, oils on your hand will cause hot spots and blowouts. He's doing it just to show you stuff, if you're replacing a bulb, use clean disposable gloves.