I wrote an entire book with this exact method once. I used rum instead of vodka. No binding needed. Not sure what people are talking about. The ink never fell off the page lol. Its been almost 20 years...
you might give this a try with the flame inside a pot with that lid on top. you'll have to put a couple of tubes to allow a LIMITED amount of air into result in incomplete combustion. Try this with pine tar :) Thanks for sharing your video!
This entire recipe is just very poor at best, and should not be used in a fountain pen, though if any pen can withstand it, the Metro is it. You can't get high quality lampblack this way. It barely qualifies as low quality. You can get usable lampblack with oil, if you use the correct collecting method, which this is not, but if you want real, high quality lampblack you MUST use resin, or fatwood, as it's known to bushcraft people. And there is NEVER a need or a reason to use alcohol, unless you simply don't know anything about making quality ink. Contrary to internet pseudo-calligraphy masters, I've never met or talked to a real calligraphy master who would go near an ink with alcohol in it. The ink literati of all types, calligraphy masters of all types, poets of all types, and other have drooled over for a very, very long time is made with pine resin, and NO alcohol. If there's a problem with resin ink, including sediment, it is not good ink. It's been made with the bottom scrapings of lampblack, and it's cheap. Oil ink is far inferior to resin ink, but still far better for calligraphy than alcohol ink. Assuming you don't cheap out, of course. It really isn't terribly difficult to make extremely high quality resin lampblam at home, if you simply follow the right ink makers.
i think the alcohol helps to wet the carbon particles, so they dont just float on the liquid. soap will have the same effect. fresh soot is so hydrophobic, water just beads off.
Thanks for this! I totally agree! I also believe the alcohol helps the ink not dry up too quickly. Good point I may try adding another type of humectant next time.
The hydrophobic is due to oil contamination. If you heat the carbon black in a Pyrex test tube to redness for a few mins.it will mix with alcohol more redily.
@@EJSchuman I think it may be just the opposite, alcohol makes the ink dry too quickly. It is true that alcohol works well as humectant for those pigments that are more hydrophobic, maybe trying a different humectant like ox gall could provide the same benefits without accelerating evaporation. Also, as it was said above you would need some kind of binder, so maybe using a drop of alcohol just as a humectant to make it easier for the binder to mix would also work.
Eventually the lamp black particles will just fall off the paper. You need a binder, like gum arabic, to make this work. As others have said, it's best not to put this in fountain pens, it will destroy them.
So this won't work for Fountain pens as youve shown it. Infact this will positively ruin your pen. Fountain pen ink is a dye. This ink has particles (lamp black), you should only use the dip pen to use these types of inks. But great video!
Is this lamp black the same as the black ash build up on the bottom of pans used when cooking over an outdoor fire? Also, do you know if it is a permanent ink?
More or les lamp ash is the same as the ash on the bottom of your pans over the fire... what exactly is in the ash depends on what you burn in the fire.. if you burn plastic the ash will be more likely be toxic.. with pvc even acidic and this can eat your paper over time. If you burn aromatic stuff your ash or ink will more likelu smell good od bad... if you burn wood you may get a more granular ash as if you burn a candle Good luck
Btw.. nothing in the universe is permannt.. it may holds longer with a binder as gum arabicum... bit also other binders exist.. as luquid you can use alcohol this will dry fast.. to stop drying you can use glycerine in the mix.. vinagre can be used to get the ink into clothes or similar matertals and it will stop mold.. bt if your binder is egg white it will denaturalice it.. some add honey this makes the ink a bit more elastic but it will take longer to try.. some use suggar as a binder but once dry it is more likely to break... it is all chemistry or alchemy as in the early days... if you are interested in a ink without pigments you chan use alcokol and wash out cigarette filters but this is toxic and not black.. or wash out similar nasty stuff.. or use the shell of walnuts but this is organic and will not be lightfast for millions of years... just try and share your permanent ink recipe.. thanks ;)
I suppose the intent is to collect the carbon so as long as it's "shiny" facilitating both build up and ability to scrape it off then I'm sure ceramic will work!
That's a horrible way to make ink for almost all uses, and a ridiculous way to make fountain pen ink. What you have is a fountain pen solvent, not an ink. Hopefully the Metropolitan can withstand it, but a great many fountain pens can't. The LAST thing you want anywhere near lampblack ink is alcohol. It's not only never, ever necessary, it's just silly for at least ninety percent of uses, and that includes fountain pens. Try make real, high-quality lampblack ink. Though you can't use it in a fountain pen, either. For a fountain pen you either need a water based ink made without just about all of your ingredients, or you need to make actual carbon ink. Alcohol isk is supposed to be good for calligraphy, and several internet sites say you risk sediment if you use a resin ink, but that's pure BS and shows an immense ignorance about ink. Alcohol ink is vastly inferior to high quality resin ink. If you cheap ink of any kind it will be poor ink, and this includes alcohol ink. But high quality resin ink is the best ink the world has ever seen for calligraphy, and it has no sediment at all. Regardless, alcohol, even pure drinking alcohol, is simply not smart for use in a fountain pens.
James Ritchie: You’re really quick to find fault with both the ingredient list, and the ink that he made itself. You tell him to make a high-quality one instead. But you don’t offer a link or a recipe. That’s problematic. If you want to do a different recipe that’s a better quality, you need to at least provide that.
I wrote an entire book with this exact method once. I used rum instead of vodka. No binding needed. Not sure what people are talking about. The ink never fell off the page lol. Its been almost 20 years...
Very interesting! I never thought of rum but I'll try that someday!
you might give this a try with the flame inside a pot with that lid on top. you'll have to put a couple of tubes to allow a LIMITED amount of air into result in incomplete combustion. Try this with pine tar :) Thanks for sharing your video!
This entire recipe is just very poor at best, and should not be used in a fountain pen, though if any pen can withstand it, the Metro is it. You can't get high quality lampblack this way. It barely qualifies as low quality. You can get usable lampblack with oil, if you use the correct collecting method, which this is not, but if you want real, high quality lampblack you MUST use resin, or fatwood, as it's known to bushcraft people. And there is NEVER a need or a reason to use alcohol, unless you simply don't know anything about making quality ink. Contrary to internet pseudo-calligraphy masters, I've never met or talked to a real calligraphy master who would go near an ink with alcohol in it. The ink literati of all types, calligraphy masters of all types, poets of all types, and other have drooled over for a very, very long time is made with pine resin, and NO alcohol.
If there's a problem with resin ink, including sediment, it is not good ink. It's been made with the bottom scrapings of lampblack, and it's cheap. Oil ink is far inferior to resin ink, but still far better for calligraphy than alcohol ink. Assuming you don't cheap out, of course.
It really isn't terribly difficult to make extremely high quality resin lampblam at home, if you simply follow the right ink makers.
If you use a cup you can reduce oxigenation and get more soot
i think the alcohol helps to wet the carbon particles, so they dont just float on the liquid. soap will have the same effect. fresh soot is so hydrophobic, water just beads off.
Thanks for this! I totally agree! I also believe the alcohol helps the ink not dry up too quickly. Good point I may try adding another type of humectant next time.
The hydrophobic is due to oil contamination. If you heat the carbon black in a Pyrex test tube to redness for a few mins.it will mix with alcohol more redily.
finally something i can try
@@EJSchuman I think it may be just the opposite, alcohol makes the ink dry too quickly. It is true that alcohol works well as humectant for those pigments that are more hydrophobic, maybe trying a different humectant like ox gall could provide the same benefits without accelerating evaporation. Also, as it was said above you would need some kind of binder, so maybe using a drop of alcohol just as a humectant to make it easier for the binder to mix would also work.
Eventually the lamp black particles will just fall off the paper. You need a binder, like gum arabic, to make this work. As others have said, it's best not to put this in fountain pens, it will destroy them.
So this won't work for Fountain pens as youve shown it. Infact this will positively ruin your pen. Fountain pen ink is a dye. This ink has particles (lamp black), you should only use the dip pen to use these types of inks. But great video!
Thanks for the feedback! I wouldn't typically use a fountain pen for long term applications but I didn't have a dip pen at the time.
Is this lamp black the same as the black ash build up on the bottom of pans used when cooking over an outdoor fire? Also, do you know if it is a permanent ink?
More or les lamp ash is the same as the ash on the bottom of your pans over the fire... what exactly is in the ash depends on what you burn in the fire.. if you burn plastic the ash will be more likely be toxic.. with pvc even acidic and this can eat your paper over time. If you burn aromatic stuff your ash or ink will more likelu smell good od bad... if you burn wood you may get a more granular ash as if you burn a candle
Good luck
Btw.. nothing in the universe is permannt.. it may holds longer with a binder as gum arabicum... bit also other binders exist.. as luquid you can use alcohol this will dry fast.. to stop drying you can use glycerine in the mix.. vinagre can be used to get the ink into clothes or similar matertals and it will stop mold.. bt if your binder is egg white it will denaturalice it.. some add honey this makes the ink a bit more elastic but it will take longer to try.. some use suggar as a binder but once dry it is more likely to break... it is all chemistry or alchemy as in the early days... if you are interested in a ink without pigments you chan use alcokol and wash out cigarette filters but this is toxic and not black.. or wash out similar nasty stuff.. or use the shell of walnuts but this is organic and will not be lightfast for millions of years... just try and share your permanent ink recipe.. thanks ;)
Which is oil to make pen ink?
Excuse me sir I did not mean to disturb, but can you burn an old unused soda can to make soot?
innogen gorme yes you can
How did it work when you tried it?
Nonononono don't put carbon ink in a fountain pen please for love of God no
Your account image makes this so muck better
do you have to use a metal thing to essentially burn or will ceramic work as well?
I suppose the intent is to collect the carbon so as long as it's "shiny" facilitating both build up and ability to scrape it off then I'm sure ceramic will work!
HexxInkworks : Use a paper.
Does anyone ever get lamp black from an actual lamp?
I think the name comes from how people hundreds of year's used oil lamps to make carbon black so more people just started saying lamp black
Any substitute for vodka?
Rubbing alcohol
Wine
@@overcookedwater1947 ssly?
well it's still alcohol...
oil
What a lovely way to destroy your fountain pen -.-
Life is about learning
engine exhaust 😂😂
That's a horrible way to make ink for almost all uses, and a ridiculous way to make fountain pen ink. What you have is a fountain pen solvent, not an ink. Hopefully the Metropolitan can withstand it, but a great many fountain pens can't. The LAST thing you want anywhere near lampblack ink is alcohol. It's not only never, ever necessary, it's just silly for at least ninety percent of uses, and that includes fountain pens.
Try make real, high-quality lampblack ink. Though you can't use it in a fountain pen, either. For a fountain pen you either need a water based ink made without just about all of your ingredients, or you need to make actual carbon ink.
Alcohol isk is supposed to be good for calligraphy, and several internet sites say you risk sediment if you use a resin ink, but that's pure BS and shows an immense ignorance about ink. Alcohol ink is vastly inferior to high quality resin ink. If you cheap ink of any kind it will be poor ink, and this includes alcohol ink. But high quality resin ink is the best ink the world has ever seen for calligraphy, and it has no sediment at all.
Regardless, alcohol, even pure drinking alcohol, is simply not smart for use in a fountain pens.
James Ritchie: You’re really quick to find fault with both the ingredient list, and the ink that he made itself. You tell him to make a high-quality one instead. But you don’t offer a link or a recipe. That’s problematic. If you want to do a different recipe that’s a better quality, you need to at least provide that.
@Daphne Raven a good source is staining and polishing by charles h howard