How To Bleed Avid Or SRAM Disc Brakes | Essential Mountain Bike Maintenance
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 เม.ย. 2016
- Bleeding disc brakes is nowhere as hard as it sounds, and will make your bike feel much more reliable.
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In this video we show you how to bleed a set of Avid Guide Brakes, most brakes come with instructions and guides are usually available from the companies website.
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▶︎ How To Bleed Shimano Brakes gmbn.eu/2d
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This is definitely the most useful brake bleeding instruction video on youtube. Everything is covered, no bullshit. Watched some german videos before, unbelievable how much wrong information is spreaded there. Thanks a ton.
Particularly if the language sounds differently.
Followed this video after several hours of failing to re-pressurise my brakes, worked first time! Cheers!
Why are all the comments "buy Shimano" or "Shimano is easier".
In the old case of Avid brakes, yes, I'd agree they were a pain in the ass, but I swapped out M8000's for RSC's on my new bike because I prefer them.
Ride what you like, and yes, this is a complicated procedure to some, but it isn't that hard.
I've just bled my brakes using your video so much easier to understand than some of the others out there now my brakes feel perfect again.
Amazing how this is way more complicated than bleeding the brakes on a brand new car!
It takes about 5 minutes once you're familiar with it.
I bleed brakes just like a car and works perfectly for all brands. Idk why the industry makes so many unnecessary steps. 🤷♂️
Oh well, whatever works for ya 🍺
@@andrewh3118 so what are your steps ?
It’s funny you say that because I know of a cyclist who was a car mechanic for over 30 years and he stated bleeding any car brake is way easier.
Just got done bleeding my Juicy 5 system. They work like a glove now...out with the old fluid and in the lines went fresh crystal clear DOT 4.0...took me all day but got them done front and back....I'll keep my Juicy, one call to the bike shop and they wanted 65 bucks for bleeding just the front. And they only carry Shimano so they offer just to sell me new ones and told me Juicy never work....best to put the time in and learn with this video go slow step by step and you will win VS the bike shop.
This was extremely helpful and my brakes feel amazing. Thanks heaps.
After the stop start watching and completing the front brakes, I flew through the process with the rears, thanks guys!!
Glad to have been a help Jason!
THX dude just done mine for the first time thx to this clip, 30 min without rushing . If your a complete novice like me just take your time its easy as sin.
Great job and explanation. I applaud you. Thank you!
Perfect video! I used it as a guide to bleed my Level T brakes for the first time. Got the job done in less then an hour.
Harry Vlaar which seems awesome until you realize that it takes 15 minutes to bleed shimano brakes! Lol
BTW use a plastic tyre lever for pushing pistons back in. The bend on the end is perfect for leverage and it won't damage the pistons or calliper especially if the pistons are a bit sticky, using a screwdriver can twist the pistons a bit and damage the surface and seals.
exceptionally clear and useful guidelines!
you guys should do a bike of the year video. include the bike of the year for xc, downhill, trail
bloody hell... just came for a refresher before hitting new/old brakes.... scotty... now there's a throwback and a half, be clicking on Marc's videos next
Cheers Scott, I requested this video!! :)
Be careful Dot 5 is different than Dot 5.1 and one can only use Dot 4 or Dot 5.1 not Dot 5 !!!
+Mário Ferreira great call, our mistake... Easy to get caught in the moment! Scott
+Global Mountain Bike Network it would be good of you to add an annotation over your published video to clarify DOT 5.1 (really important and safety/operational difference).
Gimme Taco out of interest, what difference does it make?
@DH Skips DOT 5 contains different components that do not pair with neither DOT 4 nor DOT 5.1. 5.1 and 4 can be used according to your preference and can also be mixed without worries.
Mário: Thank you for this info! Greatly appreciated.
I'm waiting on some blue hoses to put on my Foes Mono since my current hoses are too short, i slapped on the short ones running just the front brakes only, this really helped so i can cruise around in the mean time thanks!
great vid - thx dude - did my avids yesterday & still spongy - but you have all the extra tips to get the rest of the air out - getting back to it tonight & feeling confident.... use SRAMs / use Shimanos - like 'em both.....
amazing video!!
Thank yoy GMBN team, really helpfull video instruction. But thanks got for shim... brakes🙏😄
Thanks! great video
good work guys
Thanks. This video seems easier to follow and better explained than SRAM's own one.
SRAM doesn't even know how to bleed their own garbage brakes. They disabled the comments because of the backlash on these trash brakes.
very helpful thanks 😉
With DOT 5.1 fluid you can just use water to clean it up - no need for brake cleaner.
I've done almost the exact same procedure thinking my rs guides needed bleeding. Turns out they are just finicky. The lever will change bite point from the start to the end of the ride. They feel great with new pads and fluid for a bit then they need attention. Shimano and Hope are still my favorite.
I use a small g clamp with the head down to pull the brake calipers in. Makes it bit easier and no chance of scratching nice new brakes.
Followed this procedure - when complete the levers bottomed out
I had to reset with more fluid add onto lever with the wheel on and the contact dial in the midpoint
how do you clean the bleed kits after you've completed the bleed
i think this the best how-to for Avid brakes yet! thanks. but please do something about the places where you specify "dot 5" ! DO NOT USE DOT 5 !!! Dot 5.1 is the correct one, or Dot 4. Please change the video or add some text over it to correct it asap as some people may take your word and bleed with dot 5
Hey guys. Good vid, it will help me with my guides.
However, i heard that you can bleed guides the same way as shimano brakes and just push all the fluid through from the bottom?
Obviously this is unoffical practice and not best practice but sounds like it makes the whole process alot easier.
Keep up the good work, always enjoy watching your videos.
When I remove the last syringer I lost lots of fluid which makes the brakes unusable again. Don't see it happening on the video thou.
Your system must not have been sealed at the top or you still had air in it
Just curious why they recommend pushing the fluid from the caliper back up towards the lever to start? Its usually pretty dirty when I bleed my brakes. Wouldn't it be better to clear that stuff out right away at the caliper instead of pushing it back up through towards the lever?
Deciding to become my own bike mechanic during lockdown = biggest mistake for a while! First crack at this last night. Don't know if it worked, because I now can't get the callipers to retract enough for new brake pads to go in. Come back LBS! All is forgiven.
Hey Guys, great video! Are you going to the Sea Otter Classic this year, if so it would be great to meet you and thank you for all of your help!
+Ernesto Huerta Neil will be there, keep an eye on FaceBook and we'll have a couple of meet and greets! Scott
Are you wearing a Suunoto watch? What year and model do you prefer on watches?
Liked this. Too many vids not showing the air that gets into the initial syringe filling. You could use an elastic band to hold the bottom syringe to the fork leg, which will keep any air at the top of the fluid. But actually, I think it's better to get all the air out of the syringes right from the word go. Takes a few minutes more though.
Can someone tell me how to replace the reservoirs on these? Just bought a new bike and it needs new reservoir kit.
Pro tip: Bleed with the contact adjust in the middle position rather than all the way in for near instant pad contact when dialed all the way in. Not official procedure, but Sram race tech do it. #sram #529legion #project529
+Cory Yalowicki i did like this, but i got much more lever throw than with the standard technique
Máté Bunya interesting. I'm not sure why. I've had success with the technique. Search on TH-cam for "Ultimate sram brake set up mbr" for perhaps a better explanation then I gave.
+Cory Yalowicki watched that video approx. 5 times. Tried this method on both brakes, none was succesful.
It's impossible to bleed avid brakes (including the guides) without shop grade vacuum bleeder. Just throw them away and buy proper Shimano brakes. They are cheaper, offer the same modulation and feel and more importantly they are reliable. And mineral oil doesn't suck water and can be stored for a long time.
Could I use auto Dot 3?
Normally when I bleed I start with the syringe with larger volume at the caliper and push more fluid up through the lever SRAM suggest the same I’m wondering why you did it opposite
nice
i havent used my bike in a while, got scam guide rs brakes and the pistons are not returning back in. if i bleed the system, will it fix it or is there more things i need to do ?
Hi Guy's,
Why is the SRAM Brakes bleeding procedure and tools so complicated compared to Shimano ? Cheers
Damn so much need to do for SRAM guide RSC wish I had Shimano XT or XTR....
Do riders in Great Britain run their front brake line to the right side of the handlebar?
I have AVID DB1 disc brakes in which the T10 screw is on the side (same direction as the hose). I want to bleed them but I don't know in which orientation I need to put the the brake lever assembly ! Can someone help me please ?
Hi, my brakes are FUNN f2 and i can't find any bleed kit for them, iv read that an avid kit will work. do you know if this is correct
When I pull on the plunger loads of bubbles are coming through the syringe! Could the standard bleed kit syringes be leaking?
Your pulling to hard on the syringe and the pressure is causing it to deform letting air through the seal.
Any advice which way is the fully open, clockwise or CCW? I only have the lever adjuster, but have no idea what fully open means...
Same here. I’m guessing ccw but want to be sure.
After 3:00 minutes, I said F it and said I'm just gonna take it to my LBS.
same here
How on Earth then do you handle making toast? It really is that simple.
At 2:37 you say change the bite point so it’s fully open. Do you mean ccw?
what is the contact point and bite point?
So my Rockhopper Pro has been in storage for the past three years and now the brakes are in need of bleeding. The rear lever has some pressure but the front is totally free and has no pressure at all. I tried bleeding them however the fluid would not pass to the brake reservoir. I took the brake lever and reservoir off and opened the lid. there was fluid inside however it would not move as it seems the piston is seized. Is there a way to free it or do I just replace the whole thing?
Also these are Avid Juicy Three SL brakes so I don't know if I can even buy these new anymore. Does anyone know what I can replace the brake handles and reservoirs with without having to replace the entire system? This bike I bought brand new years ago but it has less than 200 miles on it and is in excellent condition minus the brakes. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Is it good for 6"1' to 6"2'?
Should the front and rear brakes have the same biting point? My rear seems to bite further than the front..
You should aim to have both the same, although it can be a tricky thing to set up. If your brake doesn't have bite point adjusters then maybe one set of pads is a lot worn that the other?
My sram brakes were such a pain. Now with shimano they are so easy to bleed. I had to cut the lines shorter and on my first try I had perfect brake bite.
How do you check torque of 1.7 nm ?
I've watched many videos and still have no confidence to perform a successful oil change. Can't we just push the fluid out from the lever above using some air pump and drain the fluid from the caliper below, and follow by pumping the new fluid in from below until it oozes out from above? Or better still, omit first purging the old fluid, simply pump in the new fluid from below and let it push out the old fluid from above?
You said DOT 5. Don't use DOT 5 fluid. That fluid is based off of a different chemical. Just use DOT 4 or DOT 5.1, the main difference between those two are the boiling points. It is also safe to mix the two.
SwagSubscriber Do anything but don't mix them
The worst, annoying thing about SRAM brakes if when you gotta bleed them.
It's a horrible, miserable process. Such garbage brakes.
I need to replace my brake pads on my rear brake, does that require a bleed for that brake?
no, just be sure not to press brake lever
I have SRAM Guide R's on my Specialised Enduro. Just wondered if you have any info on pad wear? Fitted new pads a couple of months back and all was well. Good firm levers, etc. However, now pads are half worn and levers are quite woolly. Had them checked and bled by a Specialized dealer and he reckoned they were OK. Is this normal for SRAM Guide R's? I have Tektro's on my Avanti Montari 29'er and the pads last ages and still have firm levers till almost down to the metal. Just thought it strange and appreciate your views. Keep up the good work!!
not 100% on what "woolly" truly means, but I have a similar issue with my Guide R's. When they were new, they worked wonderfully. After 100's of miles and some bike park days, my pads are about 50% and I have a lot my throw in my levers before the pads engage. I hate that feeling. Anyways, after a bad bleed job, I looked online for some info, here I am....
Brake feel is probably a personal thing but I like good firm levers. Gives me confidence that they're going to work. By woolly, Imeant they feel kinda soft, probably due to long throw so sounds like we have a similar issue. Colleague of mine also has Guide R's and a similar issue. Beginning to see a trend here...
my sram brake eventhough i pull the lever to the max, the wheel didnt stop and still continueously rotating for sometime before it stop totally, what will i do??
Air in the system. They need to be bled, take it to a shop.
hi are theses brakes any good because I might get them if thay are any good
I personally love them. The "Avids" of old were terrible, in most ways, but the new "Sram" brakes feel awesome, and after 6 months of use, I've not needed to bleed them and had no issues.
SRAM and Avid the same? I am pretty sure they merged. That said, are the Guide RSC system the same way to bleed?
Yo everyone! Never mix Dot5 brake fluid with any others, it is NOT COMPATIBLE!!.Your brakes will fail, possibly while riding!!!
Dot 2/3/4/5.1 are glycol based while Dot5 is silicone based. Dot 5 is hydrophobic, (rejects water) while the others are hygroscopic, (absorbs water). If you want to use Dot5 and had a different type in your system before, you'll have to completely strip your brakes right down to clean out even the smallest residue of the other fluid. Why Dot5? You can keep it in the bottle for years. The others have a limited shelf life. After 12 months I would not use any that has been opened once, even if the top was tightly on. Air contains moisture and it will get absorbed into the fluid, giving the possibility of brake failure as the water boils out under heavy braking.
Got a new watch-sponsor ey? ;-)
No both new pads, the rear has to go another half inch to bite, the rear has just been bled at local bike shop to...It's got me!
do i use .4 or .5 fluid for avid brakes?
dot 5.1
epicbleedsolutions.com/blogs/faq/whats-the-difference-between-dot-4-and-dot-5-1-brake-fluid
The logic is totaly viceversa as in the car brakes bleeding. As I see, u have to release the lever while u fixing the bleeding screw.
Are the bikes all yours and where do you get them from
Ktm lover they're sponsored by bike brands. So they get free bikes from the brands for publicity. They get to ride and work on pretty nice bikes and the brand gets a lot of promotion.
Had to do this once on the shitty SRAM brakes on my wife’s bike. Jesus what a huge pain in the ass, I ended up replacing with XTR. Dealing with DOT brake fluid is a massive pain, can’t dump it in my old motor oil container, have to use special containers, it’s enough of a pain to deal with disposing of when bleeding the brakes in our cars.
WOW! It looks very complicated! I better go Shimano brakes...
+Philipp Bentsianov It is complicated. In our bike shop we can get 4 shimanos done in the time of one avid
Can honestly say I'm never going to do this...
I have brake fluid coming out from behind my pads when I apply the brake. Anybody know why?
piston seal most likely
Joshhy thanks for the 3 week long reply lol. Yeah I figured that. Bought a rebuild kit and all is well now.
My preferred SRAM bleed procedure: 1) Remove SRAM brakes from bike. 2) Box them up and see if you can sell them on eBay, if not, dispose of in accordance with local laws. 3) Install Shimano brakes. 4) Don't be ashamed by that shit eaten grin on your face. 5) Never look back.
Haha, so true.
Crazy, that's how I do it too!
Amen brother.
+ThunderStruckCoach SRAM Brakes are way better
YES
funny fact is that you said at the beginning that you will be very carefull with the skin... look at 5:30 haha
I'm so confused on what to do
Step 1: get shimano breaks
+Hamish Durkie Or Hope, you can still use the old fashioned top down method and its a doddle. Plus they're the nicest looking brakes out there.
Step 2 : learn how to spell brakes
what kind of brake fluid is he using ??
Dot 5.1 or 4
I see you've got your front brake lever on the right side - is that just an individual preference of yours or is it very common? Here in Germany you would barely see this kind of setup..are there some benefits for that? :)
Brits have front on right and rear on left....
I just learned that this is true for all countries with left-hand traffic. Quite interesting how this is a thing on mostly singletrack ridden MTB :)
Now I've learned something, I thought it was just a Brit thing!!
Woah, your levers are almost vertical on the handlebar!
Even entry level shimano brakes will be better and less of a hassle. I have Avid elixr5 which are pretty reliable, sram guide that tend to tighten up in the heat but the best of all are the shimano xt deore. Reliable predictable, and if you have to bleed them it's not a twenty step process using dot fluid.
Avid knows they made garbage brakes. They knew they were garbage when they released them to the public. There are countless examples of hydraulic systems in this world and Avid insisted on screwing up the fundamentals. There's no reason for a closed system. It is beyond dumb. And they can't even do basic math to compensate for pad wear or installing new pads. I am so fed up with getting brake fluid all over my bike because I had to bleed my brakes when they shouldn't even need to be bled!
Bleeding brakes should be simple!!! Bleed screw on the caliper and a small reservoir at the handle! Like everything else!
DOT 5.1 or 4, never DOT 5
+Schummy Flores you are correct!
Sad
What a pain in the balls. Buy shimano mineral oil discs any model and call it a day.
I second this msg lol
Absolutely, what a faff around! For the average bike rider doing this once /twice a year it's a veritable nightmare. Take it to a bike shop or better still sell them and buy Shimano XT or ZEE
michel Komots What? I have both and they both seem the same to me, please explain how is the shimano faster or easier, when the shimano seems like it has more steps
So today I was adjusting my rear brake and I over tightened the bolt and the bolt head snapped of! Can I super clue it back or instead of drilling it out?
I think I'll take my KHS to the bike shop to get them bleed, bcs that looks like a pain and the noob I am when it comes to working on bikes
If it bleeds we can fix it...
Are the Rockshox syringes compatible with SRAM tlm calipers n levers? I dont wanna get raped with another 100 bucks for the kit
2 people havent tried the guide's yet! I could boil an egg and make a cup of coffie on shimano's
+Sander Bærøy Johansen Meh. I run XT on my trail bike and ZEE on my DH and never had a problem. I do ride some decently long descents (Whistler) on both bikes as well. I'm a big guy as well, 103kg/225lbs geared up. 203/180 rotors on trail 203/203 on DH.
seriously zee`s are badass, and xt WAS the industry standard, but the new guides are spectacular. well worth the 5 mins extra in bleed pros.
Honestly tried this about 10 times now and it is just not happening! My lever now comes back to the handle and i made sure there was no air what so ever in the system!! Should also add that if doing the rears put atleast 3/4s in the syringe as half just wont cut it!! How can this be?? If bleeding a car brake system is so easy why have sram made it such a faff to bleed a simple bike brake?? Such an over the top procedure, i'm completely with everyone that is pro Shimano brakes. I will be avoid srams from.now on!!
Can you please do more videos that involves you and Neil going out riding the mtb tracks
+ben forsyth plenty coming but we want to cover everything and be a comprehensive channel!
no DOT 5. 4 or 5.1!!
Technically you could also use dot 3 too.
So what I've learned is to take my bike to a bike shop
The specific tool to push back the pistons is not a luxury...using a flat head screwdriver can damage the pistons. I would rather use a plastic tyre lever if the tool is not available..
the title must be : "why you should buy shimano"
Hope brakes are by far the easiest to bleed