How to bleed your Avid Elixir disc brakes
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ส.ค. 2013
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Spongy brakes on your mountain bike? It's time for the dreaded bleed. We'll teach you how in this video from mbr.co.uk.
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All the local bike shops have a 4 week lead on repairs. This 8yr old video got me back on the trails.
Bought a bleed kit. Followed all instructions. Did everything right. Brakes still sucked. Repeated. Two times. Brakes only slightly better. Squealed like mad out on the trail.....
Bought Shimano brakes. Worked first time. No slop, no squealing, perfect braking. Lesson learned.
Yeah I done the same. Done both my brakes last year and they have gone again absolute trash.
Just used this technique on some avid juicy three's and it worked perfectly, I bought an epic bleed kit from Jejames cycles for £14.99 the kit didn't come with the block to put in the caliper so just packed it tightly with cardboard instead then slid a flat bladed screwdriver through the middle of the cardboard to make it an even tighter fit I searched through loads of videos all showing various techniques but found this one to be the most simple and easiest to follow, good job!
This video mentions adjusting lever adjust. THANK YOU!
Took seeing this to understand why fluid would not push through.
I’m italian but i have understand better how to change my brakes oil with this video than other italian’s, we speak to much 😂
Thank you!
Totally worked, huge difference, I've never bled these in the 3 years I've owned the bike, Remember if you are in north america like me, he is doing reverse location brake levers )))
So you're saying if I'm bleeding the back caliper, then I shouldn't wonder why the front lever isn't responding when I pressurize the line from the back caliper? Coz that's exactly what I did.
This was better than the official SRAM video! Don't ever sit through a SRAM video until you've seen this guy, or perhaps Calvin from Park Tool, or anyone who isn't paid to read a step-by-step script.
amazing deetailed video and instructions, I've made several attempts to refill my avid5 braking system, and I've been looking for docs and many videos and could not find a clear and working instruction set. This video has all the details to succeed, clear and straight instructions, easy to follow and nothing is missing. Awesome job and big thank you.
A really useful video which helped me get my bike back on the road again after one of the rear pistons seized. Many thanks!
MBR magazine never got round to the bleed yesterday, fitted new rotors front and back (203/180mm) then spent an hour trying to line up the back. Front was easy but the rear had the conical washers, nightmare! Next Saturday for definite though. Keep up the vids, good work. Glad to see Al has more than 1 t-shirt too....
Fantastic video :)
Just carried out my first brake bleed and this video made it a piece of cake
I followed this vid for Elixir 3 brakes and found that the calliper syringe would not compress and, when I reassembled everything, the brakes were still ineffective. 2nd attempt: I tried several 'pumps' of the brake lever at the handle bar end (while still trying to compress the calliper end) and could see air coming out of the lever assembly into the syringe. I continued until there was no more air and, on reassembly, the brakes were sorted. So my experience was to follow the vid and read the instructions on the eBay bleed kit (it was fine) and then add a little experimentation when it didn't work as described. Good luck. Patience required!
Thanks, this worked perfectly on my Elixir 3's. they are set up proper sharp now. took a few goes, I got the XLC bleed kit, I would avoid that one tbh, the adapters don't seal well into the bleed port, so it's difficult to get a vacuum. I managed just about by tightening the adapter into the port with a pair of pliers, so it is possible but I would recommend getting a different brand bleed kit, not the XLC. happy bleeding!
Thanks for the vid, sorted my brakes now. Top marks dude.
Great advice. Walked me through the process and all worked first time (though I wasn't as quick!). Thank you.
Thank you so much. Excellent instructions. Have a great day.
Brilliant video I bled my brothers brake twice using this method and it worked he’s really happy
Excellent level of detail. Very helpful.
Thanks for the great demo, very helpful, now to try!
Nice video mate clear and easy to follow exceptional results cheers
Brilliant. Just followed this and the brakes work (in my garage). Yet to try in reality!
Thanks again mate, another great vid! 👍🏼
Well done. Clear instructions. Very helpful.
just did mine with a kit i order from Ebay ,i thought i messed it up but wow what a diff it had so much air in not brake pretty good , however the hose at the syringe at the caliper came off when i depressed lever, put it back it came off like three times but then it worked. i would recommend getting the avid kit i havent used it but it looks better quality in this video.
thanks for the video.
Thank you very much for this viedeo, helped me a lot :)
Very clear, top job!
*great help thanks, my breaks are dangerously good now :)
Great video, thank you for the information
thankx bro, learned a lot today
thank you for this video sir.
I'm buying Shimano mineral oil system... This is too much pain. Just wasted 2hrs doing this and one hell of a mess, and no lever pressure, taking it to the shop. Never failed a Shimano bleed😮
Thanks, very helpful.
thanks for your effort.
Good demo!
Awesome thanks for help from Sydney Aus.
Followed instructions (good btw) and got a lot of air out, was feeling that it was going to be goo but when i took out the lever syringe and put the screw back in, the breaks were worse than before! Only stopping the wheel after like 5 seconds! Quite a lot of fluid leaked out, so did air get back into the system when i took the syringe out?
Ill be honest, I checked out the cost of bleed kits and the cheap ones get horrinle reviews while the good ones are nearly $80 CAN.
Considering I have zero experiance and predict that on top of removing the wheel and pads before bleed I will need a bottle of Valium so I don't go nuts, I will simply let the shop deal with it.
This is not something I plan on having to do many times so I figure the cost of the kit and frustration is simply not worth it when I can simply send it in. Granted, it will likely cost as much as the kit but I dont mind so long as it saves me the headache.
I do everything else on my bike except trueing.
I will add that this is another example of why I still like the XTR Vs on my old bike.
The Vs perform awesome and are very predictable in that I can really pull them just to the brink of locking with plenty of warning. Hydraulic are great so long as they are inngreat shape but get some air or just some time passes and now things get messed up and its not cheap to maintain.
Vs are dead simple and honestly perform amazingly except in the wet where they are still not bad. I can easily work on them and there is no way I need to part with close to a C note just for maintenance.
This really helped
Excellent videos find them very helpful....do u have any video on how to tighten fluid disc brakes, cheers..
Could you give me a little advice Al.. I have the Avid Elixir brake system. Theres no pressure in the rear brake and ive noticed its been leaking oil were the cable tighening nut enters the cable. There dosent seem to be any cracks in the caliper. The oniy thing i can see that the tightening nut is not tight up against the caliper system were the oil is leaking. Any advice would be welcoming. Am thinking i may need a new brake pad caliper, Which is a shame the bike is just over a year old. Cheers
Excellet! My breaks work again! :-]
This are the best ,you are pro.
Thanks AL!
Hello I come here to praise their videos. I would be happy if where I live tivesser professionals good at what they do like you. parabens
Thanks! I wonder why Formula instructions make first bleed the hose and then the caliper? It leaves bubbles in the hose.
Thank you.
I don't really understand adjustments at the beginning of the process and why are they needed?
is tht thee chris atherton? epic.
Need some help, mine are avid elixir 3 I'm guessing I can still do the bleed for these with this video , furthermore in some avid elixir videos people fill the handle calliper syringe quarter full why is this and which way is better for what reasons cheers
Greta help thanks
thank you so much
Surely pushing the plunger back in after getting the air out of the lever is just going to force it all back in there?
I wonder if you can do the same with Shimano, give advice mbrmagazine. thanks and best regards;)
awesome vid...
MBR magazine why is the spacer inserted in 2 different ways throughout this video? I'm using this video to bleed my db3's tomorrow.
Nice video. Thanks :-)
Did you used to work for Cycle Surgury in Spitalfields in the mid 90's?
this is awesome... great .. really great... thanks AL...
Can I make the same bleed procces in my avid elixir 9 taperboke
This procedure is different from what SRAM recommends. Any experiences on following this video's procedure and how it worked? I only got semi-decent results on SRAM's procedure on Elixir R brakes.
How much fluid does bleeding the brakes really use. Very little, if anything at all, it seems. When I did mine most fluid used seems to be fluids that spilled during installation and removal of the syringe to and from the brake wells.
I took my bike to get new pads fitted (avid elixir r) got it back today and the pads are rubbing. Bloke at the shop told me they will be ok when they bed in, is this true or do the pistons need setting?
I did this with my Elixir r brakes front worked wonders, but when bleading the rears, when clearing the air from the brake lever by pulling plunger on syringe the bubbles would not stop coming out. I assumed I must have a leak, but if I push the plunger in, no more fluid goes in and nothing leaks out of anywhere. Any advice appreciated
as far I can see those levers can work on both hand sides correct?
Thanks for the video . Left handle rear brake ?
Andres Mejia Left lever rear brake yes. Is this not the same as American/Canadian bikes? I’m English by the way, and I’m presuming you’re American?
what if i just need to top up the brake oil?
It's worse having the bolt of distance register too close to the piston or too far?
Guys, do use protective eye wear! today I was trying to reset the front pistons, to insert the bleed block... somewhere upstairs the seals gave in, dot fluid rained on me. I only realised what it was when my eyes started burning. Not amusing at all
You are lucky you are not blind!
What about pressing the lower syringe when releasing the lever? Is this just voodoo or why is it not in this video?
Do you have a shimano m596 tipe bleed video :)
Very Helpful! I'm glad I watched this before attempting. Now I know to get the Avid bleed kit first. It's pretty amazing how much simpler this is vs the bleed process with my formulas. Just hoping it works out as nicely as it does for you in your video.
i done this a few days ago and i was all in dot4 oil because main piston gasket was failed and oil came from brake lever
Great vid and thanks! Can anyone help with what I should do with the old fluid and can I reuse the kit? Many thanks
For DOT fluid dispose of responsibly at a recycling facility.
When I bleed the calliper I’m just getting a constant flow of air bubbles, it does not stop. Anyone know what this is about? They’re elixir 1s
Check how far he pulls the brake Lever 9:37 !!!!.
yeah , job done eh Lol.
Ha, didn't even notice that. That is sneaky.
bohemiamode Bleed FAIL!
Well, he did change that adjustment to facilitate the bleed, after you bleed, just re-adjust the lever.
Didn't look that bad.
About an inch from the bar.
Lever play is something that is highly dependant on the riders preferance.
bohemiamode jeez
Hey does anyone know if if the same works for giant mph brakes?? thank you.
Because they are showing them in the correct position.
why i need to put mineral oil, but not syntetic for cars (Mobil 1, castrol...)?
So I bled the front elixr 1 and was good as new. The bleed screw is on top of caliper. However, the rear bleed screw seems to face downwards angle so when releasing the syringe fluid comes out and I tried it 3 times it got better but still kinda spongey on the rear brake Lever? Any hints guys?
Try rotating the bike in the stand so that it is level. Or take the caliper off the bike to bleed it (use a bleed block in place of the pads).
I'm glad I only use hope brakes so much easier and nicer to work with.
SRAMs guide is not working on my Elixir 3 brakes.. Im trying this method today..
If you live in hot conditions do NOT wind the "contact" screw all the way in. If you do, and take the bike outside, your brakes will be stuck on
why will they be stuck on?
@@Liljoozy yeah. I've heard the new brakes are better though as they have a contact point screw
@@MrLarrytherat I guess I am asking "why" the brakes will be stuck on? Just too much temporary pressure from the screw that you can relieve by unscrewing? Or that it somehow melts something and causes them to be permanently stuck there?
@@Liljoozy the heat can cause the dot 5 brake fluid to expand in the lines causing the breaks to come on
@@MrLarrytherat wow I had no idea. Thanks!
This video just taught me that I am not going to attempt this job. Ever.
Dang domain I love this work mikltily Hispanic
mario rodas
What if no fluid goes from bottom to top?
Still looks spongy in the end when he tests them.
I'm confused - you say we need to remove ALL the air, but every time I pull the plunger down to create a vacuum, loads more bubbles appear? I've clamped off and everything?
You won't be able to get rid of all the micro-bubbles. If there are no more larger bubbles (over 1mm diameter), then you should be good to go.
When I try to bleed i have the siringe that won't go down, what could it be?
the best
Might be a good idea to change gloves or take them off before you handle the pads and putting them back in...
Did you drain the system befor the video ?
The old fluid gets flushed out by the new fluid. No need to drain.
Thats cool this is my first bike with hydraulic brakes im a little nervous cuz i hear that they are high maintenance but i was sold cuz of the debility in wet conditions and the stoping power that they put out...
Why does he look like he is holding in a laugh through this whole video?
Step 1. Remove your Avid brakes from your bike.
Step 2. Place Avid brakes in the bin.
Step 3. Replace with Shimano.
Step 4. Done!
It's the only way to fix this crap 😂
Great vid thanks, came here as my elixir r lever has gone floppy and does nothing (suspect the diaphragm has failed). All it makes me want to do is throw my elixir r's in the bin. Seriously its easier to pressure bleed the car than these Avids. Hopes and Shimano's even easier so them or else.
For the cost of the bleed kit alone you can get one complete Deore brake, whcih will keep working till the cows come home.
My rear brake bites quicker than my front, is this normal?
Mine is the other way round help
So this looks easier than the sram way of having 1 syringe half full and 1 a quarter and mess about like f**k. Will this work ok on elixer 7s? Iv got thr kit ready to go will this method work?
Anyone else notice that the bleed block/pad spacer is in 1 way at 1:18 then the opposite way when he takes it out at 10:44?!?!?!
James fox Don't worry, it's only used to keep the pads apart. As long as it's in there, it's fine.
+James fox Anyone noticed his rear brake lever is on the left???
+Hadrien Berthet British sistem, they use front on right and rear on left
+Hadrien Berthet that's how we have it in U.K.
MARIORODAS
ugh. my rear brake failed on me and seized up completely. now it suddenly has no power. i think it is actually broken inside, a leak somehow. god i hate hydraulic brakes on a bike, it actually makes no sense. hype.
Struggling with the terminology here: Presumably, you don't necessarily want to bleed liquid out of the brake lines, you want to bleed air out of the brake lines, right? You want to get the air out, correct? And nobody bleeds air- people only bleed liquid. But we burp air. So shouldn't we say we want to "burp" the brake lines?
And how does air get in the brake lines anyway? Because of little leaks? Or does it vaporize out of the liquid due to pressure or heat somehow?
And is there an advantage to having hydraulic disc brakes for bicycles that justifies the additional hassle and expense? My son has had a $300 Diamondback bike for 4 years with mechanical disc brakes that have had ZERO issues, and it has lived outside year-round through 3 Chicago winters. Zero adjustments necessary.
Well, it's a term that has been with regards to brakes and hydraulics since they were invented. We guess it came from the fact that to bleed the air out, you have to bleed the fluid out until no more air bubbles are present. With regards to how does the air get in there, well it can get in passed the seals over time. Some fluids (DOT stuff) also absorb water, which lowers the boiling point, and then when it gets hot it turns the water into steam and that releases air.
@@MBRmagazine That's great, very helpful with both questions. Thank you. Now, for extra credit: Why in British English is a wheelie called a "manual"?
Avoid this way at all costs!!! Avid video works better with the brake syringe 1/4 full. As soon as you start you realise you are just introducing air into the system. He starts by sucking air into caliper syringe and creating a vaccum. Then this gets pushed through air bubbles included into the brake syringe. Brake is now worse were as the 1 i did avids way works ok.