This level of quality is just awesome to see. I might not ever own something like this but I appreciate everything that goes in to such an amazing build.
Union trades job then u can ball up on literally 50 of these builds a year if you want and still drive a 80k sports car, still live in a 400k home , and still save money.
Fuel cars is not something I have messed with since the late 60s. 🦖 I really enjoy doing business with Amain, watching your reviews and build videos. And this is one of the best sofar. Don't stop! Wanna see the run video on this. Attention to detail on where to put the weight and were to keep it lite is truly a thing of beauty. And the use of ceramic bearings in the diffs and a slightly less precision type in other parts of the chassis may seem obvious, but it's not occurred to me before so I am learning stuff from your videos.
That's a great video, thanks a lot. I have been waiting for an 1/8 nitro buggy video since, my very favorite, the RTR to race video series. Please make a follow up video to see how it performs at the track. Maybe make a how to setup and tune video? Thanks again!
that cr21 rips. revolution designs also makes a weight that is in the caster plate in the rear. pretty cool and cost a little less i know it fit the b3.2. the j&t mount with the fixed gear mesh inserts are only way to go! great video brett!
Another video showing why the 170sbl is a pia to use, the detachable wire comes out in the middle of the servo end, and the rubber grommet and associated hole in the servo make it a pain to fit. The 170’s however are stellar and strong servos when fitted.
Who ever built this buggy, needs to buy some new hex drivers!! I've never seen to many hacked up screws ends, especially on titanium screws?!!😯Great Review though!
Very cool! I cringe at the thought of intentionally adding unsprung weight; studied some racecar engineering in college and general rule of thumb is one ounce reduction unsprung weight is equivalent to five ounces of sprung weight. I’d be interested to see a test of those wheel nuts in the wheels vs on the chassis.
What’s the best brand 1/8th scale a nice kit not RTR but competition like which kit should I get I have better than average experience I’m a returning racer. Love your content just subscribed
@@AMain_Hobbies Hi Brett, thanks for the reply mate. Can't wait to see you ripping it and hear your thoughts on how it feels.. Hope you do some regular racing as I'd love to see how it evolves over time and what you find works best.. Cheers..
I’ve been out of the hobby for 20yrs. Help me: MP10 or RC8B4?!?!? I’ll never race but wanting upper mid grade without unnecessary maintenance problems that you’d have with crazy race machines. Thx
Either would be great to basher, but which has more parts available at your local hobby shop? Have you checked out the Typhon? www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-typhon-6s-blx-brushless-rtr-1-8-4wd-buggy-red-black-v5-ara8606v5/p1274549 For only bashing, this could be a great, half-the-price, alternative. The tolerances and tightness of the machine won't be the same as the race cars, but if you're just bashing, it may be better to withstand the abuse. If you're set on building a race kit for a basher, I would highly recommend the Tekno cars for how heavy and bullet-proof they are. I know of a few Tekno eTruggies turned into bashers and they're absolute beasts. The only downside to these race kits vs a rtr basher, is the tekno etruggy suspension will have limited travel and sit lower than an Arrma Kraton 6S BLX for instance (an equivalent rtr truggy basher). The race cars want to hug the ground, but bashers traverse better with more ride height. Just depends on how chunky your terrain is I guess. Hope this helps or gives you some ideas. Let me know what you think! -Brett
I'm considering this kit and have a question regarding the problem you came across with the radio tray posts. Could you not mount the servo first and then plug the servo lead in afterwards to avoid dremeling the plastic radio posts. Or, what about possibly mounting the servo using only the radio post on the opposite side of the servo lead - then, manouver the second radio post from the bottom and then fasten it to the radio plate? I'm just going by what I see, so I may not see the full picture. Any insight would be great... thanks!
No, you can't add the wire after, I tried; the opening in the post isn't big enough. Installing the second radio post after installing the servo is a good idea, but didn't try that; you'd need to remove center diff I believe. Regardless how you get the servo installed, once the post is butted up against the wire as it bends down, there's a lot of pressure put on that wire. Removing the boot on the detachable servo wire greatly helps the wire bend with less bulk, but I discovered that trick after the fact, so it's not mentioned in the video. You could probably get away with no dremeling and just install the servo, but that post will put a lot of pressure on the wire as it bends down. Dremeling material off the post just helps elevate some of that pressure, but you could probably get away with not doing it. If the detachable lead has an issue its cheap to replace; although a failure during a race would suck. -Brett
Any chance of a vid with you guys running this on your track? I just bought and built the RC83.2, to good of a deal to pass up. Would still love to see the newer car in action as well.
I have a question about the new Kraton 4s: I bought the battery that you used in the video about it (Gens Ace bashing 120C) and well it kinda doesn't fit, how did you managed to fit it in there? ( I already removed both plastics at the ends of the battery box but it needs like 1mm more space to fit)
Hmm, it might be a small tolerance issue, where your battery is 1mm thicker than ours? The sizes are roughly the same battery to battery but not exact. Is it possible to return the battery? We can find you something a little smaller that won't be so tight. -Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies it's 1mm in lenght but I bought 2 batteries and both of them won't fit because of that. I don't really want to send them back (I bought them in my homeland) so i think I'll just shave of some material on the battery box, I'm upgrading it anyway so it will violate the warranty. But I'm waiting for the charger and other things from you so I hope they'll turn up quickly! Anyway thanks for the reply and suggestions
The real question is will $1000 worth of mods make it faster AND more durable. Titanium screws are softer than steel and break or strip far more easily. Titanium Turn Buckles are weaker than the same sized steel for only a 30% weight disadvantage Clamp Blocks for the exhaust clamp. In running RC for nearly 30 years I have never stripped one of these plus additional weight. The answer is If you have to spend that sort of money on a high end kit to make it competitive all you really have is a kit that is overpriced, inadequate and probably fragile. The wrong kit? For racing I would happily take a bullet proof car to one 1/4 second a lap faster that failed occasionally.
Those are good points. And at the same time, part of the fun of building an RC kit is also building it to your own taste and specification. Turning it into your own personal unique model.
Yes Sir that's very expensive. For what it does (Perform as a Toy) and has no other use, most autonomous vacuums pack better gear and they clean stuff. That's about 100 bucks worth maybe in you hand . This is a Hobby that eats money. Did Apple make this?
How many missing parts and 'trial and error' do you have to encounter before you stop calling it a 'smooth build?' Not everybody has a Dremel and works at a Hobby shop. It would suck having to mail order parts and use a manual file or have to buy different servos.
Just let nitro die with dignity. There is NO club racing nitro left. Nitro is too loud and if you remove the pitman your are left with the same runtime as electric.
This level of quality is just awesome to see. I might not ever own something like this but I appreciate everything that goes in to such an amazing build.
Union trades job then u can ball up on literally 50 of these builds a year if you want and still drive a 80k sports car, still live in a 400k home , and still save money.
An absolutely 2nd to none build. Will be waiting for the run video, impatiently.
Fuel cars is not something I have messed with since the late 60s. 🦖
I really enjoy doing business with Amain, watching your reviews and build videos. And this is one of the best sofar. Don't stop!
Wanna see the run video on this. Attention to detail on where to put the weight and were to keep it lite is truly a thing of beauty. And the use of ceramic bearings in the diffs and a slightly less precision type in other parts of the chassis may seem obvious, but it's not occurred to me before so I am learning stuff from your videos.
Gotta love nitro buggies, just beautiful
I’m into onroad but gotta admit 1/8 nitro buggy is where its at
Rc8b3.2 on Amazon was missing numerous small pieces and 4 button head screws. But it is the best vehicle I've ever driven
That's a great video, thanks a lot. I have been waiting for an 1/8 nitro buggy video since, my very favorite, the RTR to race video series. Please make a follow up video to see how it performs at the track. Maybe make a how to setup and tune video? Thanks again!
that cr21 rips. revolution designs also makes a weight that is in the caster plate in the rear. pretty cool and cost a little less i know it fit the b3.2. the j&t mount with the fixed gear mesh inserts are only way to go! great video brett!
Very nice looks fast need the run video soon thanks
that buggy is incredible
thanks for the video, always awesome
Wow you went All-in for this one , it seems you will enjoy racing it , eager to see your other videos running it 😊
Awesome build cnt wait to see it in action
Building up one as we speak, I was a Mugen racer in the past. AE fanboy overnight with the RC8 kit
Love these types of videos. 1/8 content is my favourite
nice, i've heard a couple people saying they have had to modify or replace parts that were not in kit.
Who is this Babyface!!! What did you do with Brett????🤣🤣🤣 WOW this is a crazy rig!!! Great break down!!!👍👍👍
Cool. That car is beautiful. How about doing a give away. Would make someone VERY HAPPY. Good job. Some of those parts are really cool.
Another video showing why the 170sbl is a pia to use, the detachable wire comes out in the middle of the servo end, and the rubber grommet and associated hole in the servo make it a pain to fit. The 170’s however are stellar and strong servos when fitted.
Love this nitro buggy man it’s awesome ❤
Need to see it run!
Nitro video!! Happy! ❤
Good video man. Appreciate the time you took doing it and sharing. Cheers!
Nice car... wow
Nice build! That antenna tube though 👀
Need to see this thing run
That’s too nice lol. I wouldn’t even want to run it 😂
Absolutely sick 💯
Damn I need a 1/8 nitro
I love ⅛ scale buggys.
Great Video.
My DR10 was missing a piece to complete the diff.Had to order one online.
Smooth? Tamiya never forgets parts. Great video. 👍🏻
But Tamiya packaging all over the place.
He reminds me of Apple Kid !
Who ever built this buggy, needs to buy some new hex drivers!! I've never seen to many hacked up screws ends, especially on titanium screws?!!😯Great Review though!
I think it's just the angle and lighting because I noticed that too but the screws are fine.
-Brett
What a monster
Can you guys do more nitro videos like tips and tricks or fuel selection for racing or bashing not many nitro videos any more
Beautiful buggy. Thing costs more than my first car though 😂
That car is sweet! I want it! :)
Why not a kyosho??
Very cool! I cringe at the thought of intentionally adding unsprung weight; studied some racecar engineering in college and general rule of thumb is one ounce reduction unsprung weight is equivalent to five ounces of sprung weight. I’d be interested to see a test of those wheel nuts in the wheels vs on the chassis.
Damn who mangled those diff screws so badly
you going to do a video where you run it? I would love to see that.
Sweet ride now give it away
Kind of a weird thing to demand, but okay.
@@TranceFur Main distributor in United States who sell 100k orders monthly that buggy is pennies to them.
looks awesome. Have you seen the new Agama N1? Now that is an epic bit of kit
Is that the buggy with the laydown shocks? It's super cool! I'd love to try it!
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies yes that's the one. I think a lot if people are waiting with baited breath for it. saving my pennies for one 🤣
What specific aluminum servo arm is being used?
What’s the best brand 1/8th scale a nice kit not RTR but competition like which kit should I get I have better than average experience I’m a returning racer. Love your content just subscribed
Just built an associate sct trk , missing alot of screws
That antenna is comically long lol
Yeah, with modern 2.4ghz systems, there’s zero need for that. Heck, my receivers actually have no external antenna whatsoever 😛
is it better than the kyosho inferno??
Awesome Buggy Brett, what's the plans for it mate? You going to race and film it so we can enjoy the action? Love your work in all the A main vids..
Thanks Mal! When the weather gets better we'll get on the track, see how it rips and definitely get some footage of it.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Hi Brett, thanks for the reply mate. Can't wait to see you ripping it and hear your thoughts on how it feels.. Hope you do some regular racing as I'd love to see how it evolves over time and what you find works best.. Cheers..
I’ve been out of the hobby for 20yrs.
Help me: MP10 or RC8B4?!?!?
I’ll never race but wanting upper mid grade without unnecessary maintenance problems that you’d have with crazy race machines.
Thx
Either would be great to basher, but which has more parts available at your local hobby shop? Have you checked out the Typhon? www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-typhon-6s-blx-brushless-rtr-1-8-4wd-buggy-red-black-v5-ara8606v5/p1274549
For only bashing, this could be a great, half-the-price, alternative. The tolerances and tightness of the machine won't be the same as the race cars, but if you're just bashing, it may be better to withstand the abuse.
If you're set on building a race kit for a basher, I would highly recommend the Tekno cars for how heavy and bullet-proof they are. I know of a few Tekno eTruggies turned into bashers and they're absolute beasts. The only downside to these race kits vs a rtr basher, is the tekno etruggy suspension will have limited travel and sit lower than an Arrma Kraton 6S BLX for instance (an equivalent rtr truggy basher). The race cars want to hug the ground, but bashers traverse better with more ride height. Just depends on how chunky your terrain is I guess.
Hope this helps or gives you some ideas. Let me know what you think!
-Brett
will kendel do the electric one?
How many races did you win with this PIMP ride?
What Traxxas shock oil should I put in my Traxxas slash and trx4
Traxxas oil 5w30
@@fromthebackofmymind No.. 30wt
water
@@lukeevans6437 lol
30wt. Doesn’t need to be Traxxas. Just use whatever is readily available or a good deal.
I'm considering this kit and have a question regarding the problem you came across with the radio tray posts. Could you not mount the servo first and then plug the servo lead in afterwards to avoid dremeling the plastic radio posts. Or, what about possibly mounting the servo using only the radio post on the opposite side of the servo lead - then, manouver the second radio post from the bottom and then fasten it to the radio plate? I'm just going by what I see, so I may not see the full picture. Any insight would be great... thanks!
No, you can't add the wire after, I tried; the opening in the post isn't big enough. Installing the second radio post after installing the servo is a good idea, but didn't try that; you'd need to remove center diff I believe. Regardless how you get the servo installed, once the post is butted up against the wire as it bends down, there's a lot of pressure put on that wire. Removing the boot on the detachable servo wire greatly helps the wire bend with less bulk, but I discovered that trick after the fact, so it's not mentioned in the video. You could probably get away with no dremeling and just install the servo, but that post will put a lot of pressure on the wire as it bends down. Dremeling material off the post just helps elevate some of that pressure, but you could probably get away with not doing it. If the detachable lead has an issue its cheap to replace; although a failure during a race would suck.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Thanks for this info Brett, much appreciated 👍
Any chance of a vid with you guys running this on your track? I just bought and built the RC83.2, to good of a deal to pass up. Would still love to see the newer car in action as well.
I have a question about the new Kraton 4s: I bought the battery that you used in the video about it (Gens Ace bashing 120C) and well it kinda doesn't fit, how did you managed to fit it in there? ( I already removed both plastics at the ends of the battery box but it needs like 1mm more space to fit)
Hmm, it might be a small tolerance issue, where your battery is 1mm thicker than ours? The sizes are roughly the same battery to battery but not exact. Is it possible to return the battery? We can find you something a little smaller that won't be so tight.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies it's 1mm in lenght but I bought 2 batteries and both of them won't fit because of that. I don't really want to send them back (I bought them in my homeland) so i think I'll just shave of some material on the battery box, I'm upgrading it anyway so it will violate the warranty. But I'm waiting for the charger and other things from you so I hope they'll turn up quickly!
Anyway thanks for the reply and suggestions
@@stradale1310 Ok, that should do the trick. Sorry this happened.
-Brett
where do I enter to win this?
We aren't giving this one away.
-Brett
Now go destroy that thing on the track 😂
pretty cool but theres no way i could bash something this expensive. heck im easy on my maxx loll
The real question is will $1000 worth of mods make it faster AND more durable.
Titanium screws are softer than steel and break or strip far more easily.
Titanium Turn Buckles are weaker than the same sized steel for only a 30% weight disadvantage
Clamp Blocks for the exhaust clamp. In running RC for nearly 30 years I have never stripped one of these plus additional weight.
The answer is If you have to spend that sort of money on a high end kit to make it competitive all you really have is a kit that is overpriced, inadequate and probably fragile. The wrong kit? For racing I would happily take a bullet proof car to one 1/4 second a lap faster that failed occasionally.
Those are good points. And at the same time, part of the fun of building an RC kit is also building it to your own taste and specification. Turning it into your own personal unique model.
2500$ build I shouldn’t have to modify or buy anything to complete the kit itself 🤷🏼♂️
Лучше бы Мюгена купил
Amazing video can I get pinned plz
Why would you get pinned? 🤣
Lmao he’s not going to pin some kids comment
If there is no smoke, it must be a joke.
Yes Sir that's very expensive. For what it does (Perform as a Toy) and has no other use, most autonomous vacuums pack better gear and they clean stuff. That's about 100 bucks worth maybe in you hand . This is a Hobby that eats money. Did Apple make this?
How many missing parts and 'trial and error' do you have to encounter before you stop calling it a 'smooth build?' Not everybody has a Dremel and works at a Hobby shop. It would suck having to mail order parts and use a manual file or have to buy different servos.
Nah thats like 700 dollars
It’s the worst sales pitch I’ve heard in a while. 🥴
Just let nitro die with dignity. There is NO club racing nitro left. Nitro is too loud and if you remove the pitman your are left with the same runtime as electric.