Looks much better!! I'm about to do this on my mazda 6. I bought a harbor freight 50 lb media blaster and some 24 grit fine walnut. Also bought some brushes and B12 Berryman. I have a 20 gallon compressor that should work with it well. Nice work, using the steamer was a great idea!!! Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for sharing the different methods! Most DIY'ers will have lots of time to do the cleaning (let soak overnight an use multiple products) to the point that they are happy. I agree though that they do not need to be spotless.
@Alpha Werks I have yet to see / find a before & after video (of valves) using seafoam or any other liquid... administered through a vacuum port on the engine while the engine is running. Be it a 30 minute+ cleaning or a stand alone system that adds a liquid at various engine loads. I agree that using such a method on valves that are already clean, will keep them clean. On my personal car (non Direct Injected), I spray Windshield Washer fluid into the intake under boost... and yes, the intake is spotless, but I also am venting PCV fumes to atmosphere.
@Alpha Werks In that video... the scope is inserted at the throttle body at 1:25 and the valves are shown at 1:35. Notice the difference in "image quality". The better quality images are of valves with the intake manifold removed. Later on "images" of before & after also are not of that engine... even if they were (if he spent the time removing the intake before & after cleaning), I'm not impressed with how clean they are. That's why I prefer walnut blasting.
Nice video. I ended up picking off the hard stuff with picks; vacuumed out with shop vac; then filled with chemicals that soaked overnight; then agitated using cheap Harbor Freight brushes on a cordless drill; vacuum out; repeat. Looked good as new, and was not messy at all.
I used a *Dremel and wire brush attachments* and it was almost effortless on my 150K mile 2.0T (I'm 99% positive never had a carbon cleaning). It was a mess, though.
Mine a 2016 2.0l TSI in a VW at 30k it was so bad it broke broke my manifold air flow runner at 83k water pump housing seal blowout so I checked the valves again and they looked exactly the same. There has to be some way to prevent it?
I blasted 3 ports on a 4 cylinder. I used two bottles on 3 intakes. Then on the 4th I started to scrape the carbon off with a pick. As much as i could get. Then i blasted the rest. It was much much quicker than blasting only.
Hey man, you should do a video on, "OK my a4 quattro is just now coming up on 80k miles" What needs to be done to keep this baby from sharing the same fate as the engine in your front yard. My car is a 2012 model a4, it has no problems....yet. but I'd like to hear your input on what I need to be looking for in the not too distant future. Thanks partner. You've helped a ton so far. Keep up the good work.
Pulling the head off mine today today hopefully only be doing a head gasket lost compression in cylinder one , I'm assuming that's the safest bet seeing how when I bought the car I bought about 2k worth of maintenance parts , 168k I'm doing new turbo injectors water pump hpfp new dv valve , I'm really hoping that a valve hasn't messed up if so I'll just redo it all but I'm hoping to find just a leak into the coolant bc I tested the coolant and exhaust gas was detected, I just carbon cleaned with pics and various cleaners . Love your channel tho I've litterally used much of your techniques
I done this 3 times, best way is $120 media blaster & walnut shells. Imagine if shop did it by hand it will take 5 hours labor just to do it half ass. First time I used walnut blaster it was so satisfying. I did have to use the pick behind the valve. But it was easy. If you are gonna use the walnut blaster please mask the area like a painter. Mask the other ports only work on one at a time. Btw CRC carb cleaner is the best!!!
Hey naptowntuner! What you were saying in the previous video is that an catch can helps prevents an excessive amount of build up gunk on the valves? Could you elaborate more on that in the next video possibly? Also how often should carbon cleaning be done on these models? Thanks!
Quick question please reply ur videos kool thumbs up.. seen you turn crank to make valves go up to flush and close them I thought mines were messed up because they all weren’t shut ? Do they shut different with turning crank??
Hot flame but not hot enough to destroy the metal and it will burn off like coke in an oil fired heater. Try it. I use an acetylene with oxygen rig but it will throw a lot of sparks as it burns off.
Does all the valves can close at the same time ? Because it looks like my valve nr 1 and 2 are open and the rest is closed is these normal I hope on a asap answer please bro 🙏
I pulled out my intake flaps and tried some no-fume Easy Off on them. Also tried some dremel style brass brushed in a cordless drill. Neither one did much to remove the deposits. Maybe regular strength would do a little more, idk. What worked better was a small stiff bristle wire toothbrush and a small tipped painter's palette knife along with the oven cleaner and still lots of scraping and scrubbing. Very tedious :(
The valve seats do not get cleaned.. Thats the sealing part.. Cleaning the crown may improve the flow but does nothing to the seats when valves are closed and fully seated.
Go with the cheap crushed walnut shell and blaster from Harbor Freight....60 bucks for both....Amazon has the tool for the valve port that connects to the shop vac and has a hole for the blaster gun....it's 25 bucks....it makes that job a breeze...1 hr at the most....
I think I seen you close them one by one then they don’t close at same time when you spin crank right? Was wondering if mines was bent valve or smth since one was bit open
Nice video .. Im planning an intake job and this is a concern for me. .. Maybe a engine cleaning brush to a drill would help a lot ..with a Chemical soaking would speed things up .. I believe CRC has a product especially designed for this task .. also there is a portable dri ice technology coming to market soon ..
@ my problem ? new BOSCH injectors new oil separator new NGK spark plugs new BERU coils new WESTGATE new rear main SEAL new MAP sensor *replaced twice new engine mounts MEYLE new timing chains only error code on VCDC i have is MAP sensor signal implausible G31 and nothing else, what is it ? why engine shakes when is cold start ? also shakes when its warmed up CARB DEPOSIT ?
Most of the time I try not to diagnose peoples vehicle over the internet but I will give common failures plus I don’t get involved because I’m busy and people would try to start a dialog with me. Maybe do a compression test then a leak down test and ya go ahead and clean your valves first but most of the time you need a professional scan tool rather than something that just pulls codes
@@NaptownTuner i want to email you, i would like to send you a video of my motor, need you to help. Maybe :) i am so far away from you, ofcorse if you could. Thanks a lot m8
@@stefanlazarevic2159 what typa car I’m no mechanic but I have the most project car and if it’s a Honda or really maybe anything try a lash adjustment it’s said to help alot
Hi Naptowntuner .I'm a huge fan, your the best there is keep giving us videos. Ok so now my issue, I have a 2010 tfsi cabriolet and I did a carbon cleaning and whilst doing my scraping I ended up rotating some if not all the valves. Afterwards runs fantastic except soon as I give it throttle or it's under load it pretty much has a stroke and misfires engine light flashes but if I let off and just give the big easy on the pedal it will be fine . So , A- do I need a valve adjustment, B-did I bone something else up , and C- if there is a valve adjustment can you do a video. That's all thanks again Love Murray 😉
definitely not a good idea to go filling up those ports with various oils, solvents or water-based cleaners. Even with the valves closed, a fair amount of chemical will leak down past the valves and you run the very real risk of hydrolocking the motor on first engine start - kaboom!!! I think walnut blasting is really the only satisfactory solution for this problem
It didn’t really need a valve cleaning I’ve seen way worse. Usually over 100k miles for valve cleaning unless the vehicle does lots of small trips or different conditions than where I live I can’t speak for.
For anyone looking to replace their aluminum intake lower and upper intake gaskets I have a video for that and a video to clean the intake valves on a flex fuel intake for 35 bucks
If you've scraped a pipe for resin you should be able to clean some valves. Lifeschool
I’m plenty qualified
Lol resin scraping…good times 😂
Hahahaha this is the best comment all done this once when we were younger
best one for cleaning I've seen without walnut blasting
Looks much better!! I'm about to do this on my mazda 6. I bought a harbor freight 50 lb media blaster and some 24 grit fine walnut. Also bought some brushes and B12 Berryman. I have a 20 gallon compressor that should work with it well. Nice work, using the steamer was a great idea!!! Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for sharing the different methods!
Most DIY'ers will have lots of time to do the cleaning (let soak overnight an use multiple products) to the point that they are happy. I agree though that they do not need to be spotless.
@Alpha Werks I have yet to see / find a before & after video (of valves) using seafoam or any other liquid... administered through a vacuum port on the engine while the engine is running. Be it a 30 minute+ cleaning or a stand alone system that adds a liquid at various engine loads.
I agree that using such a method on valves that are already clean, will keep them clean.
On my personal car (non Direct Injected), I spray Windshield Washer fluid into the intake under boost... and yes, the intake is spotless, but I also am venting PCV fumes to atmosphere.
@Alpha Werks In that video... the scope is inserted at the throttle body at 1:25 and the valves are shown at 1:35. Notice the difference in "image quality". The better quality images are of valves with the intake manifold removed.
Later on "images" of before & after also are not of that engine... even if they were (if he spent the time removing the intake before & after cleaning), I'm not impressed with how clean they are. That's why I prefer walnut blasting.
Nice video. I ended up picking off the hard stuff with picks; vacuumed out with shop vac; then filled with chemicals that soaked overnight; then agitated using cheap Harbor Freight brushes on a cordless drill; vacuum out; repeat. Looked good as new, and was not messy at all.
What chemical worked best?
I used CRC valve cleaner on my 335i. Just let it soak for 10-20 minutes and it cleaned up pretty easily.
How many bottles for all 6 cylinders?
@@bryanm6080 I bought 2. Don't think I used it all.
Depends how bad your buildup was.
I used a *Dremel and wire brush attachments* and it was almost effortless on my 150K mile 2.0T (I'm 99% positive never had a carbon cleaning). It was a mess, though.
Mine a 2016 2.0l TSI in a VW at 30k it was so bad it broke broke my manifold air flow runner at 83k water pump housing seal blowout so I checked the valves again and they looked exactly the same. There has to be some way to prevent it?
Did you use any kind of cleaner as well? Did you let it soak in overnight? Or just start wire brushing dry?
Chucking the rod of the shotgun cleaning brush in a drill works a treat. Cleans the star chamber of an AR beautifully.
I blasted 3 ports on a 4 cylinder. I used two bottles on 3 intakes. Then on the 4th I started to scrape the carbon off with a pick. As much as i could get. Then i blasted the rest. It was much much quicker than blasting only.
Hey man, you should do a video on,
"OK my a4 quattro is just now coming up on 80k miles"
What needs to be done to keep this baby from sharing the same fate as the engine in your front yard.
My car is a 2012 model a4, it has no problems....yet. but I'd like to hear your input on what I need to be looking for in the not too distant future.
Thanks partner. You've helped a ton so far. Keep up the good work.
Pulling the head off mine today today hopefully only be doing a head gasket lost compression in cylinder one , I'm assuming that's the safest bet seeing how when I bought the car I bought about 2k worth of maintenance parts , 168k I'm doing new turbo injectors water pump hpfp new dv valve , I'm really hoping that a valve hasn't messed up if so I'll just redo it all but I'm hoping to find just a leak into the coolant bc I tested the coolant and exhaust gas was detected, I just carbon cleaned with pics and various cleaners . Love your channel tho I've litterally used much of your techniques
I done this 3 times, best way is $120 media blaster & walnut shells.
Imagine if shop did it by hand it will take 5 hours labor just to do it half ass.
First time I used walnut blaster it was so satisfying.
I did have to use the pick behind the valve. But it was easy.
If you are gonna use the walnut blaster please mask the area like a painter.
Mask the other ports only work on one at a time.
Btw CRC carb cleaner is the best!!!
Hey naptowntuner! What you were saying in the previous video is that an catch can helps prevents an excessive amount of build up gunk on the valves? Could you elaborate more on that in the next video possibly? Also how often should carbon cleaning be done on these models? Thanks!
"Youre supposed to put distilled water in here... So i put seafoam and marvel mystery oil in" I need that on a t-shirt! I'm dyin!
Yeah, I imagine seafoam and mmo steam is great for the brain lol.
Yeah, I think there's easier ways to heat it up lol. But we're talk about the same guy that dumps oil on his garage floor..
put that brush on a drill and go to town
HOW ABOUT OPEN UP PATREON ACCOUNT SO YOU COULD HIRE A VANNA WHITE TYPE HELPER
So the best method summarised would be :-
1. Shop High Pressure Air
2. Pick
3. Carb Cleaner
4. Brake Cleaner
Quick question please reply ur videos kool thumbs up.. seen you turn crank to make valves go up to flush and close them I thought mines were messed up because they all weren’t shut ? Do they shut different with turning crank??
Someone needs to make a long brush attachment that fits to an airgun. That would be perfect for this job.
Will this new carbon neutral oil made from natural gas keep carbon from building up on my valves in my 2.0l tsi motor?
Hot flame but not hot enough to destroy the metal and it will burn off like coke in an oil fired heater. Try it. I use an acetylene with oxygen rig but it will throw a lot of sparks as it burns off.
I'm looking at water/meth injection as a preventative measure after I go through my next round of cleaning with CRC.
If you take to to a shop. I expect it clean. That's why DIY is always better
No question about it carbon takes time to clean
Hey, what was wrong with your engine that you were torture testing? You never updated?
#1 turned out the best. Probably due to more time spent. Acetone/brake cleaner is some serious stuff, it eats through plastic.
Hey do you know how we closed the valves ?
Turn the crankshaft by hand (with wrench/socket, clockwise only) until they close.
Use oven cleaner. Always works perfect
“I will see if I can get a zoom”… throws camera at valves
Wondering if Brake Cleaners will do better?
Does all the valves can close at the same time ? Because it looks like my valve nr 1 and 2 are open and the rest is closed is these normal I hope on a asap answer please bro 🙏
Why not use a power drill on the shotgun brushes?
I wonder how Easy-Off over cleaner would work for this
I pulled out my intake flaps and tried some no-fume Easy Off on them. Also tried some dremel style brass brushed in a cordless drill. Neither one did much to remove the deposits. Maybe regular strength would do a little more, idk.
What worked better was a small stiff bristle wire toothbrush and a small tipped painter's palette knife along with the oven cleaner and still lots of scraping and scrubbing. Very tedious :(
I wanted to see the shot gun cleaner end on the cordless drill
Warts n all video. Thanks!
The valve seats do not get cleaned.. Thats the sealing part.. Cleaning the crown may improve the flow but does nothing to the seats when valves are closed and fully seated.
Im with ya. Good enough for me lol. Zip tie on the end of a drill worrks good too!
Did the wire ties with some carbon cleaner was clean in 3 minutes
Go with the cheap crushed walnut shell and blaster from Harbor Freight....60 bucks for both....Amazon has the tool for the valve port that connects to the shop vac and has a hole for the blaster gun....it's 25 bucks....it makes that job a breeze...1 hr at the most....
@UCBGyy2EIkF9mmjoguq2Zu0Q Look for the RKX brand ....carbon cleaning adapter.
I think I seen you close them one by one then they don’t close at same time when you spin crank right? Was wondering if mines was bent valve or smth since one was bit open
Seems the right way to do this is walnut shells?
Nice video .. Im planning an intake job and this is a concern for me. .. Maybe a engine cleaning brush to a drill would help a lot ..with a Chemical soaking would speed things up .. I believe CRC has a product especially designed for this task .. also there is a portable dri ice technology coming to market soon ..
Toyota and Ford use combo dfi and port injection in their engines why did so many German manufacturers choose dfi only? What a pita this is! arghh
After all that an oil catch can would help.
awesome dude, you cracked me up too.
No matter how much i try to avoid it. always end up with carbon spots all over my face doing this job.
@ my problem ?
new BOSCH injectors
new oil separator
new NGK spark plugs
new BERU coils
new WESTGATE
new rear main SEAL
new MAP sensor *replaced twice
new engine mounts MEYLE
new timing chains
only error code on VCDC i have is MAP sensor signal implausible G31 and nothing else, what is it ? why engine shakes when is cold start ? also shakes when its warmed up
CARB DEPOSIT ?
Most of the time I try not to diagnose peoples vehicle over the internet but I will give common failures plus I don’t get involved because I’m busy and people would try to start a dialog with me. Maybe do a compression test then a leak down test and ya go ahead and clean your valves first but most of the time you need a professional scan tool rather than something that just pulls codes
@@NaptownTuner i want to email you, i would like to send you a video of my motor, need you to help. Maybe :) i am so far away from you, ofcorse if you could. Thanks a lot m8
@@stefanlazarevic2159 no thanks, I can only devote my time to in person repairs
@@stefanlazarevic2159 what typa car I’m no mechanic but I have the most project car and if it’s a Honda or really maybe anything try a lash adjustment it’s said to help alot
@@MikeTheHooper707 heheheh i drive now type R FN2 :D
but problem for tfsi audi a5 was carb buildup, nothing else..
Walnut blasting for the win
Hi Naptowntuner .I'm a huge fan, your the best there is keep giving us videos. Ok so now my issue, I have a 2010 tfsi cabriolet and I did a carbon cleaning and whilst doing my scraping I ended up rotating some if not all the valves. Afterwards runs fantastic except soon as I give it throttle or it's under load it pretty much has a stroke and misfires engine light flashes but if I let off and just give the big easy on the pedal it will be fine . So , A- do I need a valve adjustment, B-did I bone something else up , and C- if there is a valve adjustment can you do a video.
That's all thanks again
Love Murray 😉
The worst engines .
Doesn’t need to be shiny clean as long as not gummy and caked up, no more difference part from physiological effect
Cosa fai per chiudere le valvole grazie
OMG!!! you have a proflex mask? you playing paintball?
Cut plastic zip ties on drill
Hi, how did you close each the valves before cleaning? Thanks
Put a socket on the crank shaft pulley bolt and turn it clockwise until the valve closes
Nice
what is the optim granulation for valve clean ?
definitely not a good idea to go filling up those ports with various oils, solvents or water-based cleaners. Even with the valves closed, a fair amount of chemical will leak down past the valves and you run the very real risk of hydrolocking the motor on first engine start - kaboom!!! I think walnut blasting is really the only satisfactory solution for this problem
neptune is great mechanic .....glad he isnt housekeeper
run some vinegar through the steamer, it will be fine.
How many Miles or KM were on this Engine before it needed a Valve Cleaning?
It didn’t really need a valve cleaning I’ve seen way worse. Usually over 100k miles for valve cleaning unless the vehicle does lots of small trips or different conditions than where I live I can’t speak for.
Put the gun cleaning kit on a drill...
the valve clenaning jakuzzi LoL
Thumbs up for the mask!
👍 clean enough, I'd eat off that!
Novice:... How do we need to clean this..?
Answer:...Brake Cleaner....
The seats are what need cleaning, and you can’t get to those.
What did u do to close the valves?
Put a socket on the crank shaft pulley and turn it clockwise until it closes
soak them with carb cleaner for a few hours and then scrub
For anyone looking to replace their aluminum intake lower and upper intake gaskets I have a video for that and a video to clean the intake valves on a flex fuel intake for 35 bucks
Not a gun guy looks like
Better off putting those on a drill. Cut the handle off and drill baby!!$
Ma usa tutte e 2 le mani forse è meglio
I think wd-40 would do a really good job getting that buildup off
I’ve used seafood and I think it works well
@@davidescobedo1317 I love seafood too Red Lobster is good stuff!
Nooo