👉Check out the original video HOW TO FIX A SURGING ENGINE ➜ th-cam.com/video/JOI293d8XUg/w-d-xo.html ✅CLICK HERE FOR THE PRESSURE WASHER ➜ amzn.to/4gJnZza Today I am testing a myth about acetone in gasoline. Does that stop hunting/surging? There is also some Seafoam information! For more videos like this, check out: 👉Best Way To Clean a Honda Style Carburetor ➜ th-cam.com/video/uAHdhuDpeKw/w-d-xo.html 👉Easiest Way To Clean A Metal Briggs Carburetor ➜ th-cam.com/video/kJfpTX2Lx0g/w-d-xo.html 👉Easiest Way To Clean a Plastic Briggs Carburetor ➜ th-cam.com/video/eGF_ynkc3C0/w-d-xo.html 👉Fix A Common Briggs Plastic Carburetor Problem ➜ th-cam.com/video/aNi9sJA4PFI/w-d-xo.html You can connect with Steve here too: ✅Visit Steve’s WEBSITE ➜ www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/ ✅Visit Steve’s PARTS & TOOL STORE ➜ www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon ✅Follow Steve on FACEBOOK ➜ facebook.com/stevessmallenginesaloon ✅Follow Steve on INSTAGRAM ➜ instagram.com/stevessmallenginesaloon/ ✅Follow Steve on TWITTER ➜ twitter.com/SteveSaloon ✅Follow Steve on TIKTOK ➜ www.tiktok.com/@stevessmallenginesaloon
I needed to topped off my lawnmower before cutting the lawn. I only had chainsaw mixed gasoline(32:1). I figured a few of ounces would not hurt. I was surprised that it got rid of the surging. I still do that.
Steve, that other video you referenced saved my snow blower. I finally took the time to tear down and rebuild the carburetor this early fall...used some hand / wire drill bits like you suggested...and put it back together. The thing runs like new. Never ran better. I'm excited to use it this winter...and the best part is by the time I pull it out and start it for the first snow fall, I will have forgotten that I fixed it...and it will be a great memory all over again!
A riding lawn mower and my leaf blower surged. In both cases, it was caused by near-microscopic leak in the fuel line near where it attached to the carb. The leaks were so small that fuel evaporated as it oozed from the tiny hole so there was no puddle. The holes were such that they allowed a little air into the line and cutting off 1/2 and reattaching solved the problem in both cases. Yeah, my pressure washer surging problem was a dirty carb jet.
Steve I have done your pilot jet on a few of our Honda engines over the years works like a charm every time! I’ve done the sea foam thing a few times also ,and I agree it does absolutely nothing ! I bought those little drill bits to clean out the jet like you suggested and bingo it works every time,and only takes a few minutes! Thanks Steve for all your help over the years,your awesome!
we sold the honda powered mower because it kept getting clogged , But kept the briggs engines Because they Dont! no more Honda Keihin carb clog madness!
I own two sports cars from the 1960's, both have Weber carbs on them, even they are always run on premium gas, every once in awhile I have to take the jets out and give them a cleaning. Long time ago I bought a set of carb jet drills, the set has drills in it from the smallest, just a bit larger than a hair to the larger ones which are large enough for the main jets and air correctors. Set comes with a holder, saved me a lot of frustration.
Good video. Those carburetors are simple to take apart, clean the jet or jets properly, and away you go. Also, I run strictly premium fuel in all my small engines. Since I started doing this, I virtually never have a problem with gummed up jets even after winter storage. Ofcourse, I add fuel stabilizer to the fuel in the tank for the winter. The beat thing, is to run the tank empty of fuel prior to storage and drain any fuel from the carb.
I don't know about acetone, but SeaFoam fixed my surging problem with a honda mower. Maybe I just got lucky. I am going to watch your other video though.
i watched the old video a while back, and you saved me a lot of money. Also fixed my friends old briggs and Stratton, 22 years old, that wouldn't even start with the same advice, thanks Steve
While seafoam (and, possibly acetone? ) is great for preventing "varnish" (aka "bad/ old gas), I haven't experienced seafoam "fixing" a carburetor that has bad/old gas. I did add seafoam to a generator BEFORE it sat for 3+ years.... fired right up AFTER sitting for 3+ years
Actually ethanol will clean carbon deposits and boost performance the only issue is is when you leave it in your gas tank over the winter and it absorbs too much water then you get your separation there are many college studies on this nowadays but I've been telling everybody this for years after working out and ethanol plant ethanol does not corrode metals either where is the denature that's put it in to the ethanol and if it is what set for a period of time that's when you get your corrosion other than that straight ethanol after slightly modifying your compression your tank slightly more often you don't have to worry about anything coming up in your engine and your engine runs cooler so there is less wear on parts. Imagine if everybody knew that they could make their own fuel in their backyard what would that do to the oil industry
@@bretk7916 I agree with most points except ethanol will not boost performance on a low compression engine, there’s no need for the added octane which wont do anything if there’s no knock/ping/detonation and ethanol requires slightly more fuel to achieve a stoichiometric AFR, EFI can compensate but a carburetor can’t compensate for ethanol blends, leading to slightly degraded performance and slightly higher combustion & exhaust temps because, with ethanol, the mixture is a bit leaner. We all know a lean mixture leads to higher temps and less performance. Ethanol simply contains less BTU’s than straight petroleum fuel.
@MrHemi4spd I agree one should run non-ethanol in small engines, especially if they are infrequently used. However, in season and with frequent use, there is less buildup, if any. I have been using Marine fuel, supposedly mid-grade colored, but the local station won't tell us if there could be an ethanol contingent, and it has been unavailable for the summer. I have five acres and use mowers, chainsaws and weed-eaters.
Thanks, Steve! Just ordered a set and am thinking of all the other things I can use them on! Exactly the issue I have with my power washer. You are the Best!!!
I only add sea foam AFTER I clean the carb thoroughly. Part of my "maintenance regime". Has worked so far (4 years). Haven't needed to touch the carbs once!
Steve your videos have helped me learn so much, you and Buckin’ say the same things - don’t get all crazy with these new fangled fallacies and shortcuts, just do it the correct way and get it done!
I find they are selling to much cleaner solutions out there. The best way is to take it apart and do it right. I have gas that has sat for over a year and have used it with no problems in my power toys. The problem is moister in the gas from ethanol get to these parts causes problems. I store my fuel in a cool dry place in my shed and I don't open it until I am ready to use it that way moister from the environment can't get to the fuel inside. At the end of the season what ever I don't use I burn in the vehicle and replenish the gas can. Great video Steve.
Sometimes folks get lucky with snake oil however I don’t. I’ve tried some weird stuff but seems I always have to go into the problem head on. Also, it feels good after the fix is done & done right. Thx Steve for all the videos.
A couple of notes. #1 Seafoam is nothing more than Lacquer thinner. Just sniff them. Lacquer thinner used to work well as a carb cleaner, but with the ethanol fuel, it in my experience is a dismal failure. It simply doesn't dissolve the green residue from the ethanol. #2 Acetone is very destructive to the seals in ANY fuel system. It also will destroy many plastics. It has absolutely no place in any type of engine. After viewing your video on how to fix a surging engine I followed your advice and VIOLA, success. Thank you.
Alot of the non chlorinated brake cleners use acetone and butane and whatnot. Its really nasty on plastic ,paint ,rubber , and anything else you care about. The chlorinated "red can" brakecleen is safer ,soaks in better and evaporates at a little slower rate. Tractor supply still has chlorinated also. Not to mention the non chlorinated doubles as a starting fluid. Dont be lighting a ciggy after hosing an engine down with some non chlorinated brake cleaner.
Acetone and Toluene are great additives for making race fuel, be sure to add a little bit of ATF when you do though to reduce the washing/stripping problems with these solvents.
Yeah I use Berryman's B-12 religiously and it helps to prevent, I have never had a surging engine but then I don't use allot of them. Always something eventually that will make it through and plug the jet(s).
I remember you talking about an issue with that before and you talked about the idle jet and I cleaned it and that did it! I’ve worked on those pressure washers before and I know they have the same thing
I agree with Steve that the shortcuts just don't measure up. Fix it right the first time, and move on! I use a #78 or a #80 drill bit mounted in a pin vise to drill the krud (a technical term) out of the pilot jet, and rake it out using the flutes on the drill bit. For those that don't know, a #80 drill bit is .0135", or 13 and a half thousandths of an inch (.343mm) in diameter. It fits through the pilot jet hole without enlarging it. You want it clean, not altered. A normal pin that comes in new clothing looks like a nail compared to a #80 drill bit.
The base oil in seafoam usually makes it surge worse. I run a bit, then stop and let sit. Sometimes even apply a bit of choke. Repeat several times. Then fill with straight gas . Surge is often gone.
I think it depends on what is blocking up the internals. If its rust or sand, the liquid fixed wont work. If it’s ethanol fuel that is gelled up, it may work. seafoam will work for the gelled up alcohol
I've had good luck with Marvel Mystery Oil, but obviously works better as a preventer. I also add it to my mix gas to add some extra lubrication and everything starts first pull.
i pretreat all my gas with seafoam and marvels mystery oil. i also use high octane gas. never had a probem leaving gas in generator or snowblower year round.
Here is my guess on what happened in many of those cases where they said that acetone would clean it. I think old gasoline may have been left in the equipment and varnish formed that the acetone would dissolve. But, in many cases the culprit is old gasoline with ethanol in it and that usually results in small crystals that form in the jets and those crystals are as hard as a rock, and the only way to clear those crystals out is by drilling with a very tiny number drill like a # 80 or a # 78. I know because I've been there, and done that, and I've had it happen 2-3 times. I cured it on my 2018 Cub Cadet 2X26 snowblower by running fuel through it in the spring that doesn't contain ethanol, problem solved. I believe that the issue with fuel with ethanol in it is, the feds are putting greater constraints on small engine manufacturers to reduce emissions, and they try to attain those new standards by using smaller jets in their engines. If you want to be sure the jets are clean, use a drill! Just my opinion. Love your video's.
Surging: One very common issues you find Is a machine running lean. You visit the carb Idle jet and many times increase the jet size with your small drill set. I see the same discussion on several small engine sites. Brings me back to my younger years.😂 I was thinking lean. brought my thoughts to the fact all calibrated engines run lean in the summer and rich in the winter.That is why the air is more dense in the winter when the air is cooler. We would pack the intake manifold with dry ice in the hot summer days and get a little more spunk out of our engines. So my point being is the carb manufactures most likely pick a jet size best they can to get a middle of the temp range performance. I have seen some of the Amazon carbs that others say are not working just need a jet size adjustment. Your Thoughts? Gas today is different more formulated for injection. Best regards
I quit buying into all those quick fix claims years ago. I still use an additive for storing gas in spite of mixed claims but nothing ever goes in the tank or crankcase but fuel and oil.
My Secret is to mix a little Jalapeno 1tbsp and Ghost Pepper 1tbsp and 1tsp of Tabasco sauce with 1/2 gallon of gas, that works every time, Plus you can put it on your burrito if needed.
I was told by my small engine mechanic to use Marine gas(93) octane in all my equipment(2 and 4 stroke) because it doesn't have all the crap in it that regular gas has. So far no problems.
what could work without taking anything apart other than the fuel line is to drain the bulb and the line, then spray in a bunch of carb cleaner from the fuel line.
Correct, it is about the cause. Acetone and Sea Foam are used to remove varnish, asphaltenes, and some coking which are wax, oils, coals present in gasoline. they can not help you with rust, dirt, insects or water borne minerals. Yes running a tank empty helps, or install and use a shut off valve in the hose simplifies that, you still allow the engine to run out of gasoline. However the best option is use ethanol free gasoline in your equipment which has long shutdown periods. Ethanol interacts with water, drawing moisture from the air and that water causes the other problems. That is why if used in a week it causes no problems, but if stored for months it causes big problems.
@@whatsup3270 Had the same problem with my Yamaha TTR90. Would run fine today, but next week when it was started it would not idle correctly --- even after running the carb dry the week before. The 10% Ethanol gas would leave behind a residue that would clog the pilot jet. I would remove the carb, disassemble, clean everything, and put back on the bike. It would start first kick and idle perfectly. Again, I would run the carb dry when finished riding, and the next week when I started the bike it would not idle. After doing this twice, I switched to non-Ethanol gas and zero problems since. That was 6 years ago. Non-Ethanol gas is the way to go for any small engine, no matter what the Owner's Manual says.
I don't know if this will apply, but all my jerry cans have gas & Stabil inside. My lawnmowers, snowblowers, pressure washers, etc all run Stabilized fuel all year around. I haven't had any issues with surging motors since I started doing that about 10 years ago
I have another way to fix it. Get an electric washer. That fixes it every time lol. I know that works on all gas engins. I know they don't have psi of a gas but for what little I use one they work fine and one less gas engin to mess with. James out!
Some of my small engines have done that since new. I find if I leave a little bit of choke it solves it. Is it running rich, or just makes the fuel/air mixture correct...I don't know. Putting a load on the engine seems to help as well.
Well jly Roger matey. Just seen in one of your videos that you mention the name of Cedar BC. Then I find out your located in Nanaimo. Thought ghat was pretty awesome. And so. CHEEERS FTOM VANCOUVER CANADA. had no idea you were canadian. Right on. I watch your videos on occasion. It's how I got started in adjusting carburetors till I decided to read the actual owners manuals on all machines. Have a great day neighbor. Rum drinker here. HAAAR
I dont always trust gas, even if it's supposedly non-ethanol. I'll run a little isopropyl through once in a while. Other than that. It's not that hard to pull it apart spray it out and occasionally use a torch tip cleaner and some compressed air.
My initial thought was: Adding Acetone to Gas sounded dangerous! Then, in thinking about it, I thought it might damage the diaphragm and maybe the gas lines. You proved to me that neither Acetone or Seafoam help at all, and I wasn't surprised about Seafoam. I knew there was a carb fix for surging, but I guess lazy people and/or those with no mechanical aptitude have to try to find a shortcut. However, why would they persist after they find an Acetone-in-Gas "fix" doesn't work? If they tried instead of just pushing the thought, they should know better. This implies that it does work in some cases, but I would never try either one. Seafoam is was made for Small Boat Outboard Engines, yet stores like AutoZone are sponsored to sell it for automobiles, and they sell it that way for the sponsored money. There are better Carb Cleaner additives which might work, but actually cleaning the carb removes all doubt.
Your right! I know for a fact TECHRON could work, don't know what ratio you'd use in a small engine but I used to do automotive inspections for a living and a old-timers i worked for introduced me to Techron, I never believed anything for a bottle would work in an engine but boy was I amazed to find it did! Had an automobile that wouldn't pass emissions test, so he told me go in the store and grab a bottle of techron put it in and drive it down the hwy about 10 mins. One way then back. Did it and that thing passed emissions test I could hardly believe it but you know what they say, seeing is believing! Now it didn't always work if there was mechanical issues such as bad injector or fouled spark plugs or even really dirty oil it may not work but if it's just carbon build up or the dreaded VARNISH, yep it absolutely will cut that stuff out! It is a little pricey 14 to 15 dollars for a 8 oz bottle but I believe it's worth it! Heck even i buy it and I'm a po man, I don't like buying anything I don't have to lol.🤠👍
Steveo! Steveo Disko here, how about a video on log splitter maintenance. I noticed my Hydraulic fluid is getting dark (its 8 years old). Do I need to change it? Why do I need to change it? How do I change it?
@@chrisb9478 lol well, darker than I remember it being. It was a real light yellow (new) and now it's tan. The cylinder gets to the point where it's too hot to touch.
@@steveniksid5874 Steve would be better to answer this. But I think so. I’ve been told to change it if it gets dark, smells burnt or looks milky or cloudy. I don’t split a ton, so I’ll probably just change mine every 5yrs. Mines 3yrs old and a just little darker than new.
@@chrisb9478 thanks for the info. I don't split a lot either. I wish I could post a picture of the clear return hose. It seems prett dark but 5 gallons every few years seems like a lot of hydraulic fluid (money too). I guess I'll start by digging through my archives for the owners manual.
Acetone is what they put in octane booster and it will raise your octane of the gasoline. You have some people who have used it think they fixed the surge problem when it’s just because it’s hitting every time because the gasoline is better but it doesn’t really melt any varnish unless you would run Straight acetone and let it soak overnight in the carburetor. Carburetor cleaner would do the same thing but anytime you want to boost your octane and make the engine run smoother with more power and acetone. It’s the poor Mans nitromethane
@@kerrymehaffey6257 with drill bits?? No wonder I have to constantly take my crap back to a shop if I have any work done. Those drill bits are highly abrasive. They can leave gouges and grooves that can trap dirt. That's why I always recommend soft metal like copper, or brass. Since copper is so easy to find if you remove some of the sheath off of a speaker wire, is why I recommended it.
👉Check out the original video HOW TO FIX A SURGING ENGINE ➜ th-cam.com/video/JOI293d8XUg/w-d-xo.html
✅CLICK HERE FOR THE PRESSURE WASHER ➜ amzn.to/4gJnZza
Today I am testing a myth about acetone in gasoline. Does that stop hunting/surging? There is also some Seafoam information!
For more videos like this, check out:
👉Best Way To Clean a Honda Style Carburetor ➜ th-cam.com/video/uAHdhuDpeKw/w-d-xo.html
👉Easiest Way To Clean A Metal Briggs Carburetor ➜ th-cam.com/video/kJfpTX2Lx0g/w-d-xo.html
👉Easiest Way To Clean a Plastic Briggs Carburetor ➜ th-cam.com/video/eGF_ynkc3C0/w-d-xo.html
👉Fix A Common Briggs Plastic Carburetor Problem ➜ th-cam.com/video/aNi9sJA4PFI/w-d-xo.html
You can connect with Steve here too:
✅Visit Steve’s WEBSITE ➜ www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/
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I needed to topped off my lawnmower before cutting the lawn. I only had chainsaw mixed gasoline(32:1). I figured a few of ounces would not hurt. I was surprised that it got rid of the surging. I still do that.
After two tries with acetone and then Sea Foam, I had a good laugh. Thanks for the humor Steve.
You're Welcome...
Thanks for saving us all the trouble of trying this out for ourselves. 😁👍
Glad to help
Steve, that other video you referenced saved my snow blower. I finally took the time to tear down and rebuild the carburetor this early fall...used some hand / wire drill bits like you suggested...and put it back together. The thing runs like new. Never ran better. I'm excited to use it this winter...and the best part is by the time I pull it out and start it for the first snow fall, I will have forgotten that I fixed it...and it will be a great memory all over again!
Excellent!
That's right Steve, manual cleaning is the best procedure. 😊
A riding lawn mower and my leaf blower surged. In both cases, it was caused by near-microscopic leak in the fuel line near where it attached to the carb. The leaks were so small that fuel evaporated as it oozed from the tiny hole so there was no puddle. The holes were such that they allowed a little air into the line and cutting off 1/2 and reattaching solved the problem in both cases. Yeah, my pressure washer surging problem was a dirty carb jet.
Steve I have done your pilot jet on a few of our Honda engines over the years works like a charm every time! I’ve done the sea foam thing a few times also ,and I agree it does absolutely nothing ! I bought those little drill bits to clean out the jet like you suggested and bingo it works every time,and only takes a few minutes! Thanks Steve for all your help over the years,your awesome!
Good to know!
we sold the honda powered mower because it kept getting clogged , But kept the briggs engines Because they Dont! no more Honda Keihin carb clog madness!
I own two sports cars from the 1960's, both have Weber carbs on them, even they are always run on premium gas, every once in awhile I have to take the jets out and give them a cleaning.
Long time ago I bought a set of carb jet drills, the set has drills in it from the smallest, just a bit larger than a hair to the larger ones which are large enough for the main jets and air correctors.
Set comes with a holder, saved me a lot of frustration.
Good video. Those carburetors are simple to take apart, clean the jet or jets properly, and away you go. Also, I run strictly premium fuel in all my small engines. Since I started doing this, I virtually never have a problem with gummed up jets even after winter storage. Ofcourse, I add fuel stabilizer to the fuel in the tank for the winter. The beat thing, is to run the tank empty of fuel prior to storage and drain any fuel from the carb.
I don't know about acetone, but SeaFoam fixed my surging problem with a honda mower. Maybe I just got lucky. I am going to watch your other video though.
i watched the old video a while back, and you saved me a lot of money. Also fixed my friends old briggs and Stratton, 22 years old, that wouldn't even start with the same advice, thanks Steve
Nice work!
Anyone who believes there's a "mechanic" in that can is a fool. Simple maintenance is all that is required!! Thanks for the video, Steve!!
They just can't fit a mechanic in a bottle. 😂
While seafoam (and, possibly acetone? ) is great for preventing "varnish" (aka "bad/ old gas), I haven't experienced seafoam "fixing" a carburetor that has bad/old gas.
I did add seafoam to a generator BEFORE it sat for 3+ years.... fired right up AFTER sitting for 3+ years
I simply used Non Ethanol fuel....made my own from 87 oct. Runs like a champ ever since!
Actually ethanol will clean carbon deposits and boost performance the only issue is is when you leave it in your gas tank over the winter and it absorbs too much water then you get your separation there are many college studies on this nowadays but I've been telling everybody this for years after working out and ethanol plant ethanol does not corrode metals either where is the denature that's put it in to the ethanol and if it is what set for a period of time that's when you get your corrosion other than that straight ethanol after slightly modifying your compression your tank slightly more often you don't have to worry about anything coming up in your engine and your engine runs cooler so there is less wear on parts. Imagine if everybody knew that they could make their own fuel in their backyard what would that do to the oil industry
@@bretk7916 I agree with most points except ethanol will not boost performance on a low compression engine, there’s no need for the added octane which wont do anything if there’s no knock/ping/detonation and ethanol requires slightly more fuel to achieve a stoichiometric AFR, EFI can compensate but a carburetor can’t compensate for ethanol blends, leading to slightly degraded performance and slightly higher combustion & exhaust temps because, with ethanol, the mixture is a bit leaner.
We all know a lean mixture leads to higher temps and less performance.
Ethanol simply contains less BTU’s than straight petroleum fuel.
SIMPLY!!!! Another person looking for shortcuts. geeesh.
@MrHemi4spd I agree one should run non-ethanol in small engines, especially if they are infrequently used. However, in season and with frequent use, there is less buildup, if any. I have been using Marine fuel, supposedly mid-grade colored, but the local station won't tell us if there could be an ethanol contingent, and it has been unavailable for the summer. I have five acres and use mowers, chainsaws and weed-eaters.
Thanks, Steve! Just ordered a set and am thinking of all the other things I can use them on! Exactly the issue I have with my power washer. You are the Best!!!
Glad to help
I didnt think that would've worked either, you have a good detailed tutorial and video on the chonda carb cleaning 👍🏻🤛🏼
I only add sea foam AFTER I clean the carb thoroughly. Part of my "maintenance regime". Has worked so far (4 years). Haven't needed to touch the carbs once!
Steve your videos have helped me learn so much, you and Buckin’ say the same things - don’t get all crazy with these new fangled fallacies and shortcuts, just do it the correct way and get it done!
I find they are selling to much cleaner solutions out there. The best way is to take it apart and do it right. I have gas that has sat for over a year and have used it with no problems in my power toys. The problem is moister in the gas from ethanol get to these parts causes problems. I store my fuel in a cool dry place in my shed and I don't open it until I am ready to use it that way moister from the environment can't get to the fuel inside. At the end of the season what ever I don't use I burn in the vehicle and replenish the gas can. Great video Steve.
Sometimes folks get lucky with snake oil however I don’t. I’ve tried some weird stuff but seems I always have to go into the problem head on. Also, it feels good after the fix is done & done right.
Thx Steve for all the videos.
Great point!
A couple of notes.
#1 Seafoam is nothing more than Lacquer thinner.
Just sniff them.
Lacquer thinner used to work well as a carb cleaner, but with the ethanol fuel, it in my experience is a dismal failure.
It simply doesn't dissolve the green residue from the ethanol.
#2 Acetone is very destructive to the seals in ANY fuel system.
It also will destroy many plastics.
It has absolutely no place in any type of engine.
After viewing your video on how to fix a surging engine I followed your advice and VIOLA, success.
Thank you.
How about adding carb cleaner ?
I have found in many carbs this nasty sticky residue. Gasoline doesn’t dissolve it but acetone cuts right through it. I’ll stick with manual cleaning.
This was awesome! Great video Steve!! Thanks and have a great day sir!
Yep, sounds about right.
Except I'm impressed you didn't have to pull the carb to fix it the correct way!
Right on
For storage I've always used ATF 8oz per gallon run it for a bit and never had an issue in the spring. Best is to drain all and the carb bowl!
Acetone can affect rubber and plastic can't it?
Guess what's in modern small engine fuel systems....
Acetone is nasty on a lot of things.
We used to use acetone to weld plastic together
yep it eats rubber needles and seats and some gaskets and o rings.
Carb cleaner is nearly equal parts Toulene, Methanol and Acetone.
Alot of the non chlorinated brake cleners use acetone and butane and whatnot.
Its really nasty on plastic ,paint ,rubber , and anything else you care about.
The chlorinated "red can" brakecleen is safer ,soaks in better and evaporates at a little slower rate.
Tractor supply still has chlorinated also.
Not to mention the non chlorinated doubles as a starting fluid.
Dont be lighting a ciggy after hosing an engine down with some non chlorinated brake cleaner.
Well done and interesting video Steve. Glad that the engine is running smoothly again! 👍👍
Thank You...
Acetone and Toluene are great additives for making race fuel, be sure to add a little bit of ATF when you do though to reduce the washing/stripping problems with these solvents.
You're the man Steve, never put me wrong with my machines
Thank You...
No, thank you. Your video's are so informative and definitely the best out there for advice. Please keep them coming
Thank you, saved my time and money.
I've been using techron fuel line cleaner for years and it's always fixed my problems.
Yeah I use Berryman's B-12 religiously and it helps to prevent, I have never had a surging engine but then I don't use allot of them. Always something eventually that will make it through and plug the jet(s).
Awesome video Steve !
Your humour is great.
Thanks for the laughs.
My pleasure
I remember you talking about an issue with that before and you talked about the idle jet and I cleaned it and that did it! I’ve worked on those pressure washers before and I know they have the same thing
Keep up the good work it's refreshing and good timing for Spot checks
I agree with Steve that the shortcuts just don't measure up. Fix it right the first time, and move on! I use a #78 or a #80 drill bit mounted in a pin vise to drill the krud (a technical term) out of the pilot jet, and rake it out using the flutes on the drill bit. For those that don't know, a #80 drill bit is .0135", or 13 and a half thousandths of an inch (.343mm) in diameter. It fits through the pilot jet hole without enlarging it. You want it clean, not altered. A normal pin that comes in new clothing looks like a nail compared to a #80 drill bit.
I used everclear on a snowblower, made it run like a race car, but then reved up to max rpm and put rod out of side of the engine
I have learned to run fuel stabilizer in my machines to keep the jets clear. Especially my generator.
Thanks, Steve.
The base oil in seafoam usually makes it surge worse. I run a bit, then stop and let sit. Sometimes even apply a bit of choke. Repeat several times. Then fill with straight gas . Surge is often gone.
Awesome stuff. This is very helpful, SteveO! Have 2 brother!🍺. Hopefully, you and April have an amazing weekend!
Same to you
Brother Steve ….. you bring us gold!!
Hey if it were that easy we’d all have mint carburetors. Good vid Steve
I think it depends on what is blocking up the internals. If its rust or sand, the liquid fixed wont work. If it’s ethanol fuel that is gelled up, it may work. seafoam will work for the gelled up alcohol
I just watched your 6 year old video
Awesome video.
I never even learned that from when I worked at Yamaha
I've had good luck with Marvel Mystery Oil, but obviously works better as a preventer. I also add it to my mix gas to add some extra lubrication and everything starts first pull.
i pretreat all my gas with seafoam and marvels mystery oil. i also use high octane gas. never had a probem leaving gas in generator or snowblower year round.
Here is my guess on what happened in many of those cases where they said that acetone would clean it. I think old gasoline may have been left in the equipment and varnish formed that the acetone would dissolve. But, in many cases the culprit is old gasoline with ethanol in it and that usually results in small crystals that form in the jets and those crystals are as hard as a rock, and the only way to clear those crystals out is by drilling with a very tiny number drill like a # 80 or a # 78. I know because I've been there, and done that, and I've had it happen 2-3 times. I cured it on my 2018 Cub Cadet 2X26 snowblower by running fuel through it in the spring that doesn't contain ethanol, problem solved. I believe that the issue with fuel with ethanol in it is, the feds are putting greater constraints on small engine manufacturers to reduce emissions, and they try to attain those new standards by using smaller jets in their engines. If you want to be sure the jets are clean, use a drill! Just my opinion. Love your video's.
Surging:
One very common issues you find Is a machine running lean. You visit the carb Idle jet and many times increase the jet size with your small drill set. I see the same discussion on several small engine sites.
Brings me back to my younger years.😂 I was thinking lean. brought my thoughts to the fact all calibrated engines run lean in the summer and rich in the winter.That is why the air is more dense in the winter when the air is cooler. We would pack the intake manifold with dry ice in the hot summer days and get a little more spunk out of our engines. So my point being is the carb manufactures most likely pick a jet size best they can to get a middle of the temp range performance. I have seen some of the Amazon carbs that others say are not working just need a jet size adjustment. Your Thoughts? Gas today is different more formulated for injection.
Best regards
Thank you for your honesty!!!
Always!
I quit buying into all those quick fix claims years ago. I still use an additive for storing gas in spite of mixed claims but nothing ever goes in the tank or crankcase but fuel and oil.
So funny the ideas people give you!!
This was great! Thanks Steve!
My pleasure!
Awesome video Steve!
Thank you
Very welcome
My Secret is to mix a little Jalapeno 1tbsp and Ghost Pepper 1tbsp and 1tsp of Tabasco sauce with 1/2 gallon of gas, that works every time, Plus you can put it on your burrito if needed.
Great vid. Thx for filming this and sharing it with us.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great advice, as always!
Thanks again!
I was told by my small engine mechanic to use Marine gas(93) octane in all my equipment(2 and 4 stroke) because it doesn't have all the crap in it that regular gas has. So far no problems.
what could work without taking anything apart other than the fuel line is to drain the bulb and the line, then spray in a bunch of carb cleaner from the fuel line.
I added TCW3 outboard oil , capsule size for sticky valves
Thats crazy sauce Steve!
Nothing beats a real cleaning
I spray Seafoam into the engine block to clean out deposits. Never to clean up a carb.
I put a bit of VP Racing 116 octane race gas for the race car in my pressure washer for the exhaust smell. 😂
Thank you Steve.
Good on you for testing these suggestions! Stevo remains open-minded!
Winderdome Resort
Thanks for the video Steve.
Good bit of info Steve....cheers🍻
Seafoam is good for regular maintenance but that jet is pretty small so it needs to be taken apart and cleaned.
What causes the Pilot jet to stop up to begin with. Will running machine completely out of gas prevent clogging.
Correct, it is about the cause. Acetone and Sea Foam are used to remove varnish, asphaltenes, and some coking which are wax, oils, coals present in gasoline. they can not help you with rust, dirt, insects or water borne minerals. Yes running a tank empty helps, or install and use a shut off valve in the hose simplifies that, you still allow the engine to run out of gasoline. However the best option is use ethanol free gasoline in your equipment which has long shutdown periods. Ethanol interacts with water, drawing moisture from the air and that water causes the other problems. That is why if used in a week it causes no problems, but if stored for months it causes big problems.
@@whatsup3270 Had the same problem with my Yamaha TTR90. Would run fine today, but next week when it was started it would not idle correctly --- even after running the carb dry the week before. The 10% Ethanol gas would leave behind a residue that would clog the pilot jet. I would remove the carb, disassemble, clean everything, and put back on the bike. It would start first kick and idle perfectly. Again, I would run the carb dry when finished riding, and the next week when I started the bike it would not idle. After doing this twice, I switched to non-Ethanol gas and zero problems since. That was 6 years ago. Non-Ethanol gas is the way to go for any small engine, no matter what the Owner's Manual says.
He's not afraid to prove anyone right or wrong, even himself 🍻
Awesome video , thanks for sharing my friend !!!!! 😊🙏👍❤️
Thank you! Cheers!
Your a magician Steve your the man ✔️💯. From Melbourne AUSTRALIA 👍🤠
I was wondering where you were going with that. Thanks for sharing💀✌️
Any time!
Good job!
I don't know if this will apply, but all my jerry cans have gas & Stabil inside.
My lawnmowers, snowblowers, pressure washers, etc all run Stabilized fuel all year around.
I haven't had any issues with surging motors since I started doing that about 10 years ago
I have another way to fix it. Get an electric washer. That fixes it every time lol. I know that works on all gas engins. I know they don't have psi of a gas but for what little I use one they work fine and one less gas engin to mess with. James out!
Some of my small engines have done that since new. I find if I leave a little bit of choke it solves it. Is it running rich, or just makes the fuel/air mixture correct...I don't know. Putting a load on the engine seems to help as well.
I love advice people give to fix problems, yet they've never taken that same advice, and they STILL have the same problem.
Well jly Roger matey. Just seen in one of your videos that you mention the name of Cedar BC. Then I find out your located in Nanaimo. Thought ghat was pretty awesome. And so. CHEEERS FTOM VANCOUVER CANADA. had no idea you were canadian. Right on. I watch your videos on occasion. It's how I got started in adjusting carburetors till I decided to read the actual owners manuals on all machines. Have a great day neighbor. Rum drinker here. HAAAR
Cool, thanks
berryman's b12 chemtool I have seen work in cars to clean up injectors and fix a check engine light with a fuel injector code.
It works for derek at vgg
iv fixed small engine with it but you have use alot like 30% to tank of gas and it dont work 100% of time
That is basically equal parts Acetone, Toulene and Methanol.
They dissolve aluminum.
@@TrollinCrazyRussian Which product dissolves aluminum?
I dont always trust gas, even if it's supposedly non-ethanol. I'll run a little isopropyl through once in a while. Other than that. It's not that hard to pull it apart spray it out and occasionally use a torch tip cleaner and some compressed air.
Great Video as always
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you for the video
Best way to keep a fuel sys clean is keep it in fresh gas or run it completely empty.
Valve adjustment?
My initial thought was: Adding Acetone to Gas sounded dangerous! Then, in thinking about it, I thought it might damage the diaphragm and maybe the gas lines. You proved to me that neither Acetone or Seafoam help at all, and I wasn't surprised about Seafoam. I knew there was a carb fix for surging, but I guess lazy people and/or those with no mechanical aptitude have to try to find a shortcut. However, why would they persist after they find an Acetone-in-Gas "fix" doesn't work? If they tried instead of just pushing the thought, they should know better. This implies that it does work in some cases, but I would never try either one. Seafoam is was made for Small Boat Outboard Engines, yet stores like AutoZone are sponsored to sell it for automobiles, and they sell it that way for the sponsored money. There are better Carb Cleaner additives which might work, but actually cleaning the carb removes all doubt.
Your right! I know for a fact TECHRON could work, don't know what ratio you'd use in a small engine but I used to do automotive inspections for a living and a old-timers i worked for introduced me to Techron, I never believed anything for a bottle would work in an engine but boy was I amazed to find it did! Had an automobile that wouldn't pass emissions test, so he told me go in the store and grab a bottle of techron put it in and drive it down the hwy about 10 mins. One way then back. Did it and that thing passed emissions test I could hardly believe it but you know what they say, seeing is believing! Now it didn't always work if there was mechanical issues such as bad injector or fouled spark plugs or even really dirty oil it may not work but if it's just carbon build up or the dreaded VARNISH, yep it absolutely will cut that stuff out! It is a little pricey 14 to 15 dollars for a 8 oz bottle but I believe it's worth it! Heck even i buy it and I'm a po man, I don't like buying anything I don't have to lol.🤠👍
@@DarrenFinley Thanks for telling me about Techron.
Steveo!
Steveo Disko here, how about a video on log splitter maintenance. I noticed my Hydraulic fluid is getting dark (its 8 years old). Do I need to change it? Why do I need to change it? How do I change it?
8yrs old, and it’s dark, yes I’d change it 😂
@@chrisb9478 lol well, darker than I remember it being. It was a real light yellow (new) and now it's tan. The cylinder gets to the point where it's too hot to touch.
@@chrisb9478 is the hose from the Hydraulic pump to the reservoir purposely clear for this reason?
@@steveniksid5874 Steve would be better to answer this. But I think so. I’ve been told to change it if it gets dark, smells burnt or looks milky or cloudy. I don’t split a ton, so I’ll probably just change mine every 5yrs. Mines 3yrs old and a just little darker than new.
@@chrisb9478 thanks for the info. I don't split a lot either. I wish I could post a picture of the clear return hose. It seems prett dark but 5 gallons every few years seems like a lot of hydraulic fluid (money too). I guess I'll start by digging through my archives for the owners manual.
ABSOLUTELY Nothing! 😂
Love it!
Stabil will prevent a whole lot of things. I use it year round.
Would it be the same for fuel injection ?
Hell ya love the videos you are really helpful
Glad to hear it!
Exhaust smelling of acetone and gas….. someone is gonna think you’re running a meth lab.
Acetone is what they put in octane booster and it will raise your octane of the gasoline. You have some people who have used it think they fixed the surge problem when it’s just because it’s hitting every time because the gasoline is better but it doesn’t really melt any varnish unless you would run Straight acetone and let it soak overnight in the carburetor. Carburetor cleaner would do the same thing but anytime you want to boost your octane and make the engine run smoother with more power and acetone. It’s the poor Mans nitromethane
what does it do to the plastic float?
And that’s why we call him the Ninja folks!! That was a six pack project!
Is that Lucky Lager (the inclogger)?
Pull pilot jet . Send some thin copper wire through 🤷🏽
I use E string from guitar!🤠👍
I use strand of stainless cable.
Twist tie from a loaf of bread with plastic or paper taken off
Real mechanics use a pin vise !
@@kerrymehaffey6257 with drill bits?? No wonder I have to constantly take my crap back to a shop if I have any work done. Those drill bits are highly abrasive. They can leave gouges and grooves that can trap dirt. That's why I always recommend soft metal like copper, or brass. Since copper is so easy to find if you remove some of the sheath off of a speaker wire, is why I recommended it.
Yeah that's like what I used to call adding that engine rebuild in a can it don't work