I appreciate your unique approach to this Fred. The air gaps have to help isolate the heat quite a bit. Your attention to detail is amazing, most folks would skip the alcohol wiping but that will make the tape stick 5x to 10x longer than without that step. You are the type of guy anyone with any house pride would want to hire.
I have watched your video many times. My boyfriend and I just air conditioned the garage and decided we needed to insulate our garage doors. We used your plan and adapted it to our garage doors. It turned out very nice and has made a major difference. Thank you so much for your inspiration and your instruction.
Doesn’t sound like it. My garage door is 1.5 inches from the lip to the front of the garage door. If he did a cell he’s have to account for probably another half inch
@@yevenstee I think I was able to get R-10 in there (2" thick pink Styrofoam board). I did have to lap-joint the edges in some spots because of the thickness of the garage door frame.
Wow. I've looked at over a dozen videos on this topic and have not seen anything like this. Amazing. Very thoughtful design. Great editing and script. This changes my idea about how to do my garage door.
Thanks for the kind remarks. This project wasn’t supposed to be a video, it was just a project that needed done. Filming inside my 100° garage was a challenge. In the end I am glad I recorded it and that I am able to share this project/concept with the world.
Smart method with the air gap. I'm in the process of fully insulating & conditioning my west facing hot garage so I can do projects year 'round. I like this approach.
I used aluminum duct tape at work. Even when I was careful, I’d get nasty cuts smoothing it. Balling up tape backing to press it is a great way prevent bleeding fingers. Other than that, it is what I’m planning to help my son with. Thanks.
Nice video and great insulation, but if you want the super easy method, you don't have to build a box to get a fairly drastic change in insulation--you can just glue panels right to the door. Just cut 1" thick rectangular panels to your garage panel sizes, then simply put some caulk on a few of the high spots (clean the areas on the door first), slide in the panel and make sure it's resting on the bottom edge of the individual panel areas, press to make sure it has contacted the door/caulk and that's it (some use double sided tape). When measuring for the panels, make sure there's about a 1/4-1/2" overlap so the frame will slightly hold the panel if they come unglued, but mine never did. I did this in Canada north of North Dakota and even when it was like 5 degrees out, I could make the single story garage 50 degrees or more with just a little space heater. Going from a thin layer of highly conductive metal to a door with 1" of insulation makes a massive difference, even if you don't build a box and make an air gap. I just did it on a second garage recently. If you're going to use your garage a ton then I think maybe the box method is worth it, otherwise just slap up some panels ;-)
I wonder how the caulk would last in the insane heat we have? I feel like it might just cook right off. 🤣 I need to get the laser thermometer out, but I’m guessing my garage door gets to his temps or higher. The high today will be 110° F, and the garage faces west with FULL sun for several hours a day. I’m so anxious to try this!
Great Idea Mr. Fred I like the attention in quality and the ( No WRINKLES ) it does make for a aweson finish, I see at the beginning the door was 141 degrees and would like to ask what the temp was after completion the fallowing day, Looks great
Thanks for the comments! I made a follow up video that has lots of temperature data points. That video is right here ▶️th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
Did you measure the difference before and after? That would be interesting to know. Nice job. I like the idea. I would've just like to know the cost value on your method. I live in Phoenix (HOT) and using a foil kit. So changing to your method is it worth the cost. Thanks
I don't think you need air gaps at all. They say 1/2 inch gap might be optimal. The air circulation in the gas has to be low and 1/2 inch is the ideal , if I remember correctly. Unless the aluminum door gets too hot and melts the insulation coating. No need for the air gap. I did my garage door with 1 1/2 in sm styrofoam and it fits perfectly in the door gap. You can put more layers on. It is better using the Polyisocyanurate but I couldn't find any since this was 20 years ago. The reason why all windows, tri pane etc. have air gaps of 1/4 to 1/2 inch is because that is the optimum distance. With the big cell design the heat is trapped inside the cell and convection is very efficine t and it just transmits all of the heat to the inside layer. Best just to do the 1/2 inch or no gap at all. I need a flexible insulation to insulate the exposed joints in the Aluminum door at the hinges. In my garage when it is -35 outside these hinge areas transmit the cold inside and they instantly get a large layer of ice. So I am looking at some flexible layer to cover up the exposed metal on the inside.
Wow! Nice. What R value do you estimate you achieved? Also, did you measure temperature inside and out after completion? That would be very useful to know.
True novice here. I’ll bet you’d guess. Could you just put spacers 2 or 3, then cut the foam board taller and wider to glue or tape to the raised surface then trim with the aluminum tape? You’d still be creating the cell. I am about to do this on my door. I appreciate your tutorial.
@@MrFredsDIY I’ll try it and let you know - but maybe you already do. 😬The only trip up -that I see- is making sure there is room for the insulation as the garage door panels move. Of course I will use spacers that take the insulation to a flat depth with the raised frame around the panel. Thanks for your encouragement. Let me know if I’m saving time but creating problems.
Hi there, i want to insulate my single garage door and I live im North east. Will your method help with either cold or hot temps in garage? After I install your method, do I need to adjust for any tension issues on the garage door? Thanks
Yes, I had my garage door guy adjust my springs a bit (they scared me too much to diy). It only gets to freezing a few times each winter here in Las Vegas but when it gets cold my Buddy heater works great. Here is an update video I made with more information ▶️th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.htmlsi=fDF0NO13GkdHdAnS
The hindge supports are not insulated. Why did you not use spray foam to insulate? I like your approach and I intend to insulate each hindfge segment to make as complete a heat barrier as I can. Would appreciate your thought on this extra step.
From what I understand the best air gap is about 1/2 inch. Any more and you have circulation and defeats the gap function. You are best to put more layers of insulation which have the microcells already in the material. The weight of the insulation is not important. You just adjust your garage spring so that the door is actually weightless. Also the hot or cold climate does not matter. In a cold climate the hot area is inside and in a hot climate the cold area is on the inside assuming you have A/C. My wall of my house have R 20 insulation and on the outside is R 10 Blue SM. If made an airgap in the middle of my wall , it would just lower the overall insulation of my house and do no good at all. The insulation value of a 1/2 inch airgap is about R = 1 while the 1/2 inch Polyisocyanurate is probably about R!0, so 10 times better than an air gap. Also if you use airgaps , in places that aren't walls so you have space for air gaps, to keep them to 1/2 inch or they are useless. The air inside quickly sets up a convection current and transmits the heat or cold perfectly.
I can feel a draft of air coming through my garage door at the seams where the panels hinge and butt up against each other. Would covering those gaps with a bubble wrap insulation be a good idea or any possible better solutions? Yours looks great by the way.
Might be a little expensive, use the rubber door strips with aluminum edge. Maybe your garage door man might have some rubber stripping that goes on bottom of door. (Used/free)
Keep your garage cool 😎 and insulate that door! Mine was 140°F in the sun! Here is the follow up videoth-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html 🔴 Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/mrfredsdiy/
The big difference is the actual door itself. It is no longer 140°. In the full sun the door is now the same temperature as the garage and my garage no longer has giant temperature fluctuations. It’s hard to say scientifically but it’s 10-15°. Thanks for watching!
@@MrFredsDIY Thanks for the details and now I am considering that project for our garage door in Texas where the heat is about the same but the winter is or is not that cold. ;-)
You definitely need to have your springs upgraded after adding all that weight. You will have problems long term if you don't accommodate for all the added weight!
Thanks for watching. 25lbs was the total weight added. Here is an update video for this one.Garage Door Insulated The Right Way (Proof It Works) th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
@@MrFredsDIY Yes you definitely need to get your springs updated. The general rule of thumb is anything over 10 lbs you need to change the springs. The door is supposed to hang in balance from the springs and adding even as little as that will change the balance. Long term this will cause wear and tear and possibly breakage of your opener. I strongly suggest you get your springs updated ASAP.
I tried this first but the 2” insulation works better. The air gap is a GREAT idea but the first time you bump it you crease it or put a hole in it. Stay with the 2” boys and girls.
Great video, however, adding weight to the door will put the door out of balance making your opener have to work much harder and also potentially dangerous.
Adding insulation to a garage door DOES add weight to the door and will often require an adjustment to the torsion springs. Adjusting the springs brings the door back into balance no additional stress is transferred to the opener. Thanks for watching!
Adding turns to a torsion spring is NEVER a good idea. Springs are cut to a balanced size and lift. Adding more turns doesn’t make the springs “stronger” it only changes the Balance point making the door more difficult to pull down from the top. This is not only dangerous to overload springs but your opener will be working nearly twice as hard trying to close that door.
Not sure if this is worth the time instead of just using 1.5 or 2 inch foam. I'd be surprised if the R rating from the air gap is anything more than marginal.
Thanks for sharing this video. This is quite labor intensive when compared to filling up the space with 1" - 2" solid sheet. It would be great if you could follow up with a thermal scanner video just to confirm if it's worth to take this approach. Thanks again.
With a foil backed foam it needs an air gap or work or the foil aspect is useless and you're just putting foam in. I think this video's process is great, but maybe a bit overkill for the everyday person--I chose to just do one layer instead of the two he did (for ease and finances). But obviously two would be better than one since the air gaps let less and less heat transfer through each subsequent one. In Arizona he probably needs this.
Good luck with your project! I was contemplating this project for quite some time. I wanted to do something more than the normal thick foam kit because it’s so blessed HOT here in Las Vegas. My neighbor has the regular foam and he is happy. I just wanted more lol.
@@MrFredsDIY dude! i just had to start living in my in-laws garage in Las Vegas as well. (mtn. edge) because....well i'm sure you can get a few ideas probably why and one or 2 could probably be correct. Anyway its just killing my wife and I along with are big fatty cat. i was able to get a little a/c unit but its not big enough at all to really feel a difference unless your right next to it. so iv been trying to think of how i can put up make shift walls that will help keep the cool air in a smaller area but my big issue i think is the garage door. by 8:30 -9:00 A.M. i feel that heat just radiant against the door because mine faces south and gets contact from the sun till it starts setting.... i would really like to use the stuff like you did in your video but i cant afford that. i mean i was going to see if i could collect something like really big packing foam from a maybe a fridge or what ever and wrap it in my own foil from the kitchen.. lol its like that for me right now. thank you for your time and video very easy to follow and understand. maybe if you have any ideas or know where i could salvage some scraps so we don't cook and over heat because the rate its going its not looking to good. Not to mention on top of everything i can only work on it at night because its the only time its barrable to work in there but i need to sleep at night so i can get to work in the A.M. sorry for the long message. just had to vent i guess. look forward to seeing more videos. thanks again Levi Patton
@@MrFredsDIY Very good idea, the air gap does create more insulation. I built 2" frame inside my 60" X 60" single pane window, wrap insulation window film with air gap. Really help to keep the cold out.
@@davids7209 I don't think you're understanding what everyone is trying to say here. Exterior temp Interior temp before Interior temp after These will indeed dictate its success.
I admire the creativeity and the detail, but I have to side with the 2" thickness vs the 1/2". Although 2" is heavier, it is in NO WAY "heavy"!! Especially when only 3 1/2 sheets are needed for a double door. It's also a little more expensive, but the 3 1/2 sheets needed at $46 each is only about $50 more than the 7 sheets needed if using the 1/2". Additionally, rather than just the R-6.4 that you have, (R-3.2 x 2 layers), just one sheet of 2" would have given you R-13! Finally, the heat trapped in the air gap STILL has to transfer and dissapate somwhere, and that will be whichever side is cooler.
I also dont see where the difference between 8 sheets of 0.5" vs your estimate of 3.5 sheets of 2" (maybe is just that the cell has at least two sides and you are not making the cell design
So you are going to leave us all hanging? What temperature difference did it make in your garage? What is the r value that you got out of that? What was your temperatures before which we saw, and what was your temperatures after? What was the temperature inside the garage? I live in a part of Texas and I would like to do something similar but it has to make mathematical sense and it has to drop the temperature in my garage by more than maybe a piddly five degrees or six degrees which does absolutely nothing
He provided limited info in response to some comments (months ago). There will be a follow up video in July. How do I know that? I read comments and replies when I am interested in something.
@@MrFredsDIY Thank you for the updated video with the results and benefits. Edit: Would be helpful to amend your description for this video with the link posted here. Thank you sir.
Why can’t garage door manufacturers build garage doors with these features already? It’s ridiculous how vulnerable they are to break-ins and weather conditions.
Looks really good! Thank you for sharing. I live in Arizona and am considering doing this with my garage doors. Just a couple of questions. You used wood spacers tabled to the surface. Do you worry that the heat will release the adhesive and these spacers will end up rattling loose behind the inserted foam panel? Could you have cut your panels from the width dimension, 48”, of the large foam for easier workability and less waste? Have you tested this for effectiveness? Please provide a review video months later if you can. Pros and cons and what you may have done differently. Thank you!
I'm on year two of my installation and haven't noticed any rattling. But I used dryer foil tape and put one on each end of the stick just to make sure it wouldn't slide around. Seems to be holding well because the foam pushes on the sticks anyway.
Metallic tape trick I recently learned: wet a tiny corner of the paper side. Use a thumb-nail to scratch off the wet paper. Now you can easily peel back the metallic tape and apply!!
You added an awful lot of weight to that door. The springs won't last long, and if you are using an opener with the heavy door, then you run into a whole world of problems. For instance, the top panel middle style will start to come apart. It typically leaves a hair like tare in the door off to the side of the panel. Taht tare will go down each panel and show in all the panels. You are also putting extremely heavy loads on the opener sprocket. As this job might look nice and be very cheap to do, it will cost you more down the road when the fine details are not considered when doing this type of work. I change countless doors and openers from people using things outside what the manufacturer has designed for the door.
Thanks for checking out the video! Here is the follow up video for this project th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html . This insulation did not add an awful lot of weight to the door and in fact it only added just under 25 lbs. The typical styrofoam garage door kit for this size of door adds about 20lbs of insulation. These kits are sold widely at the big box stores. Adding weight to a garage door usually requires an adjustment to the torsion springs as was the case with my door. I had my garage door guy adjust my springs and I can lift it easily with little effort. The motor doesn’t work any harder than it did before this project.
You did a great job with the design, and explaining it, and then demonstrating the installation. You failed, however, to show a before and after temperature reading. You responded to comments asking about it but only by saying that the inside door temp was basically the same as the air temp inside the garage. You never gave us any numbers. What is the air temp in the garage!! Give us some sort of reference to know just how well it worked. Not doing so makes me wonder if you were disappointed with the results and don't want to get too specific with the results. The proof is in the numbers.
I agree also, I watched the entire video to see the end results of all the work and money invested. I live in Phoenix and have the same heat problem but without seeing the end temps for the inside on this build it was a waste.
He said it was 117 degrees outside, without humidity in AZ and based on what he's wearing and not sweating it probably drops the temp about 25-30 degrees. We did this to our garage with temps in high 90's and high humidity and it cooled it to mid 70's
Well done. I'm in a milder climate however, the humidity makes up for it. I'd like to see some up close assembly shots of what you were doing. The right spacer being shorter confused me as the left should have been shorter as well for the top panel to sit on both evenly, correct? What have you done to combat the exposed aluminum rails? They are essentially heatsinks as well.
Chris High, I think the left side of the door cavity is recessed. The 44" of the top panel does not go inside the recess, but sits on top at all the edges. The top and bottom is the same, not reduced width for top to sit on but to create the "box" edges. Cool project and the little foam strips around the perimeter to make the "cell" is a good effective idea. The little lattice strips should keep the back panel from contacting the doors' surface. Theory is to limit the heat transfer and 2 little contact points hopefully reduce the transfer. I edited my previous post... I watched again and the little scraps he tapes onto the back panel are the spacers to have some support for the top panel and another air gap. That right edge foam strip that goes in before he measures the panel lengths, was not a spacer (works as 1 though), but it was the edge of the "box" and was thinner because the top panel sits on top of it flush with door rails. I was a little confused too. Hope that helps.
Not to rain on anyone's parade but, Sika and Johns Mansville polyisocyanurate boards are now required to be covered by a thermal barrier. Sika states: "Installations utilizing R-Matte® Plus-3 must be fully protected on the inhabited side of the building by a thermal barrier such as a minimum of 1/2” gypsum wallboard." And JM states that "AP Foil-Faced sheathing must be separated from the interior of a building by either a thermal barrier or ignition barrier as required by code." All the foam plastic insulation products are now required to have this protection however most do not provide that information on their product, only in the fine print of their installation instructions. There were exceptions in some of the adopted codes for thicknesses and area limitations but they are not universal and many have been discontinued. The toxic fumes given off by these products are often fatal when inhaled. Please note that there are some polyisocyanurate panels which meet higher standards and are not required to have a thermal barrier but those panels are very expensive and are not found in the box stores. Check with your local building departments and get a letter from them stating that the material in question may be left uncovered. If they will not give you a letter - look elsewhere for insulation. Clark County is unusually tough on this - a result of the MGM fire many years ago.
I had a boxcutter jump off a t-square while I was cutting and cut the tip of my finger off. It wasn't recent and I was cutting shingles, but be careful folks.
I love how everyone is an expert. Nothing special about putting insulation in garage door panels. You did all that extra work for nothing because the foam itself is the insulator. Your design is meant for window installation where the gas in between the two panes acts as the insulator....smh
Foil-coated polystyrene (styrofoam) board is (at least in my area) much cheaper than Polyiso, and will perform effectively just as well. As to the "double-sided reflective insulation" - reflective barriers are one-way insulating strategies. The foil facing the outside will reflect radiated heat back to the exterior. The interior-facing reflective barrier will actually be hurting your efforts in a hot climate, as any radiated heat from objects in the garage will be reflected...back into the garage. While the styrofoam can be more fragile if you scrape against it, I found its flexibility to be a bonus, wherein I did not have to cut spacers due to the design of my garage door panels that had a natural crevice for the board sections to hold their place in towards the interior side of the panels. I was able to cup/bend my board sections enough where they popped back into place once inside the metal lip of the door panels. I used no additional tape/foam/glue, and the panels have stayed perfectly in place since I did the project 5 years ago. As to the "added weight/springs" issue some have brought up - polystyrene is also much lighter than Polyiso, such that (personal opinion only) - I saw no need to upgrade my springs, nor have I noted any detrimental effects of the insulation on the door mechanics.
As I watched the video, I did see that the interior-facing reflective barrier was facing into the inside; so, it is safe to say that it should be install facing the garage door(outside) instead?
@@justinjimenez6960, I totally agree with you regarding keeping the heat out; that is why I asked if the reflective barrier should be facing the garage or should be facing away from it. Thanks
Has anyone taken into account the heat from an SUV once it parks in the garage and radiates it’s heat into the garage? I want to insulate but I feel like I will trap the heat from hot cars
Areas that were clean and dirt free have held up well. I have a few area that I have has to clean better and reapply. I have a follow up video for this on my channel. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great detailed video Mr. Fred. I like your method and will do the same. I found the sheets at Home Depot. How many 4 X 8’ sheets do you need per garage door?
Your torsion springs are really going to love all the additional weight added to them panels. Not only have you decreased the life cycle of the springs, your causing unnecessary stress on the garage door opener. People if your going to insulate your panels, the springs need to be replaced and proper springs installed with the added weight taken into consideration. It might not seem like much weight, but it’s more than you would think. Applying more tension to the springs only decreases the life cycles even further. Typically manufacturers give 10,000 life cycles on torsion springs, you can easily take off a couple to few thousand by this very method
Did you adjust door springs to account for added weight? Even though weight seems light there are added lbs to the door which can affect door openers function. Just thinking out loud. Your system appears to be so much more energy efficient.
Thanks for commenting. The springs were adjusted, I had my garage door guy do that for me. Here is a follow up video with tons more information.th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.htmlsi=fs3Rf6SlQ2CM1a2c
Mr. Fred, do you find it also keeps the garage warmer in winter? Here in Texas, I'm sure it will work well in summer, but I'm wondering if it will reduce heat transmission out of the garage in summer?
It’s in the 40’s at night here now so not too cold. When I use my Buddy Heater it seems to reflect off the insulation and keep my work area warmer. Thanks for watching!
Expense. No builder is going to take on the cost and time unless the homeowners specifically pay for it. And doing it yourself is waaaaay cheaper than paying for an install!
The added weight will throw off the calibration of your springs. The door won’t balance and if not serviced will make your operator work harder but y’all knew this already.
I like this design. I wish Fred would have shown how the cells hold up to several garage door openings and closings. I have found that the abuse of the openings and closings can cause insulation like this to start to come out of the door cells over time.
You can take it a step higher and get 1/8" wire rod (I used brazing rod from welding supply/Tractor supply type stores). Drill hole at top & bottom of panel and run rod down, bend at top end to keep in place. Does a nice job.
I just used Reflectix to insulate the interior of my cargo van for my camping trips. It made a tremendous difference for hot or cold! I used the leftover material to make an insulation panel to shield my AC condensor in the patio from the summer sun. The area above the panel facing the sun was 140 degrees and the area below the panel was 95 degrees! The concrete floor of the patio where it is installed was 120 degrees!
The one and only thing I’d do different is for the spacers I would not trust the one flap of tape I would use an adhesive and cover the entire back side of the spacer this way you can eliminate the possibility of the spacers failing internally
I used a couple different brands with mixed results. The brand I am using now is called “Flex Fit” and seems to be working well. Time will be the test! Thanks for the question!
In a conventional and framed structure, I would imagine traditional insulation would give you more R-value. I have seen people put 4 x 8 sheets of polyisocyanurate as a wall covering instead of drywall.
what if instead of using all the extra strips on top and bottom... run a bead of expanding foam insulation between panel and door panel. the foam would push the insulation panel out against the lip of door panels and create a good sealed air pocket
I made a follow up video to this one with a lot of temperature data. You can watch it here.▶️th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.htmlsi=aAXWGDMC5I8qzwmX
Here is a follow up video that I made with lots of temperature data Garage Door Insulated The Right Way (Proof It Works) th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
I've watched several of these vids and I like this plan the best, the double air gap will help to prevent heat transfer from on substrate to the next. Good plan. Thanks.
🤔 Why use wooden spacers versus foam spacers? Why the air cell between the foam panels versus three full foam layers? I agree with the air gap between the foam and the metal as long as there is trapped air flow to the outside. What was the Delta T (Deg F) between the outer skin and inner skin after the mod? What is the fire retardancy of the foam, as well as the toxicity of the burning off gas? This is after all a garage. If the foam is flammable then applying thick AL foil or thin sheet metal w/ glue would prevent spark ignition. Thanks for an interesting presentation.
I used the wooden trim because it was thin and allowed for a larger “cell cavity”. A solid thick piece of foam would contact transfer heat more readily than the cell design. Here’s a follow up video.th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
The only issue that I had with garage door springs was to have them adjusted to compensate for the weight differential. This ends up being true for pretty much any insulation kit applied to overhead doors like mine.
Thanks for watching the video! This foam is NOT extremely flammable. From Polyiso.org: Polyiso insulation delivers a high level of inherent fire resistance when compared to other foam plastic insulations due to its unique structure of strong isocyanurate chemical bonds. These bonds result in improved high temperature resistance (up to 390 degrees F; more than twice the temperature resistance of other building insulation foams) which in turn leads to enhanced fire resistance. It also,conforms to code.
Great questions! Every insulation option will add weight to a garage door and Polyiso is no exception. It did add weight to the door and I had my garage door guy adjust my torsion springs to compensate. Here is a follow up video that I made with tons of specific data points. Thanks for watching! th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
Would have loved to see the same time of day with similar temps in the same time of year measured before and after. Another user posted that the foil should be pointed outwards, but foil is also conductive, as well as radiative. I think that its a wash between the two, but probably MORE resistant to heat leakage in climates that have colder climates as well when facing inwards.
Thanks for the insights. Having the reflective side inward helps with heating & cooling the garage space (even if only a little). Here is a follow up a year later with more data points. th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching! I made an entire follow up video complete with thermal imaging to answer popular questions. Here is the link th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
It gets cold here in Las Vegas at night and some days in the winter also. It makes a difference! Here is a follow up video with more temperature statistics.Garage Door Insulated The Right Way (Proof It Works) th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
Wait, no after install temperature results to show the benefits of the insulation? I went through the whole video hoping for positive results at the end.
Here is the follow up video I made for this one. Lots of temperature data. th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.htmlsi=aAXWGDMC5I8qzwmX
I appreciate your unique approach to this Fred. The air gaps have to help isolate the heat quite a bit. Your attention to detail is amazing, most folks would skip the alcohol wiping but that will make the tape stick 5x to 10x longer than without that step. You are the type of guy anyone with any house pride would want to hire.
I have watched your video many times. My boyfriend and I just air conditioned the garage and decided we needed to insulate our garage doors. We used your plan and adapted it to our garage doors. It turned out very nice and has made a major difference. Thank you so much for your inspiration and your instruction.
Great! I’m glad your project was a success!
i did mine using 2" thick foam board. it fit perfectly and worked a charm. kept the garage toasty during winter.
Did you make a cell like him or not
Doesn’t sound like it. My garage door is 1.5 inches from the lip to the front of the garage door. If he did a cell he’s have to account for probably another half inch
@@McNateDoggYT Nope, no need. Northern climate.
@eternalsunshine1651 I live in MN, and am this will be a project for me this summer. What R value did you use?
@@yevenstee I think I was able to get R-10 in there (2" thick pink Styrofoam board). I did have to lap-joint the edges in some spots because of the thickness of the garage door frame.
Wow. I've looked at over a dozen videos on this topic and have not seen anything like this. Amazing. Very thoughtful design. Great editing and script. This changes my idea about how to do my garage door.
Thanks for the kind remarks. This project wasn’t supposed to be a video, it was just a project that needed done. Filming inside my 100° garage was a challenge. In the end I am glad I recorded it and that I am able to share this project/concept with the world.
Here is the follow up I just finished th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
Wow. Very impressive. I'm gonna do this for my garage door here in Florida. Thanks for showing step by step and explaining everything so clearly.
I'm in FL too - any luck? did you cover the vents?
Smart method with the air gap. I'm in the process of fully insulating & conditioning my west facing hot garage so I can do projects year 'round. I like this approach.
I used aluminum duct tape at work. Even when I was careful, I’d get nasty cuts smoothing it. Balling up tape backing to press it is a great way prevent bleeding fingers. Other than that, it is what I’m planning to help my son with. Thanks.
This is a great way to insulate! We are in Florida and will be doing this the same way! Thank you! Great video!
Nice video and great insulation, but if you want the super easy method, you don't have to build a box to get a fairly drastic change in insulation--you can just glue panels right to the door. Just cut 1" thick rectangular panels to your garage panel sizes, then simply put some caulk on a few of the high spots (clean the areas on the door first), slide in the panel and make sure it's resting on the bottom edge of the individual panel areas, press to make sure it has contacted the door/caulk and that's it (some use double sided tape). When measuring for the panels, make sure there's about a 1/4-1/2" overlap so the frame will slightly hold the panel if they come unglued, but mine never did.
I did this in Canada north of North Dakota and even when it was like 5 degrees out, I could make the single story garage 50 degrees or more with just a little space heater.
Going from a thin layer of highly conductive metal to a door with 1" of insulation makes a massive difference, even if you don't build a box and make an air gap. I just did it on a second garage recently. If you're going to use your garage a ton then I think maybe the box method is worth it, otherwise just slap up some panels ;-)
I wonder how the caulk would last in the insane heat we have? I feel like it might just cook right off. 🤣 I need to get the laser thermometer out, but I’m guessing my garage door gets to his temps or higher. The high today will be 110° F, and the garage faces west with FULL sun for several hours a day. I’m so anxious to try this!
the air gap will add more than you think to the R value
Thank you so much. I'll do it at my studio garage in Florida.
Great Idea Mr. Fred I like the attention in quality and the ( No WRINKLES ) it does make for a aweson finish, I see at the beginning the door was 141 degrees and would like to ask what the temp was after completion the fallowing day, Looks great
The inside surface temperature of the door is always within a few degrees of the ambient temperature of the garage.
Great video with actionable advice. Thank you! Would love to have seen a temp difference from inside and outside on a hot Vegas day.
Thanks for the comments! I made a follow up video that has lots of temperature data points. That video is right here ▶️th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
Did something similar and after the first evening of working in garage added a layer of fabric to take the glare off the foil . Was maddening.
Did you measure the difference before and after? That would be interesting to know. Nice job. I like the idea. I would've just like to know the cost value on your method. I live in Phoenix (HOT) and using a foil kit. So changing to your method is it worth the cost. Thanks
that is what i was waiting for.... where is the temperature test??????????????????????
Agreed. The whole point of going through this whole process is if there is a significant change in the temperature in the garage after installation!
I just published a follow up video on my channel with FLIR imaging and many data points. Thanks for watching!
@@MrFredsDIY How about total cost for the materials?
I don't think you need air gaps at all. They say 1/2 inch gap might be optimal. The air circulation in the gas has to be low and 1/2 inch is the ideal , if I remember correctly. Unless the aluminum door gets too hot and melts the insulation coating. No need for the air gap. I did my garage door with 1 1/2 in sm styrofoam and it fits perfectly in the door gap. You can put more layers on. It is better using the Polyisocyanurate but I couldn't find any since this was 20 years ago. The reason why all windows, tri pane etc. have air gaps of 1/4 to 1/2 inch is because that is the optimum distance. With the big cell design the heat is trapped inside the cell and convection is very efficine t and it just transmits all of the heat to the inside layer. Best just to do the 1/2 inch or no gap at all. I need a flexible insulation to insulate the exposed joints in the Aluminum door at the hinges. In my garage when it is -35 outside these hinge areas transmit the cold inside and they instantly get a large layer of ice. So I am looking at some flexible layer to cover up the exposed metal on the inside.
Can you do this for a vertical attic 🚪, so much heat comes from the attic through that door.
Polyiso is used in many applications including roofing. Perhaps your attic is not ventilated properly? Thanks for watching.!
Wow! Nice. What R value do you estimate you achieved? Also, did you measure temperature inside and out after completion? That would be very useful to know.
Here is a follow up I just finished. Thanks for watching th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
True novice here. I’ll bet you’d guess. Could you just put spacers 2 or 3, then cut the foam board taller and wider to glue or tape to the raised surface then trim with the aluminum tape? You’d still be creating the cell.
I am about to do this on my door. I appreciate your tutorial.
Sounds like it should work. The cell is the important part. Thanks for watching!
@@MrFredsDIY I’ll try it and let you know - but maybe you already do. 😬The only trip up -that I see- is making sure there is room for the insulation as the garage door panels move. Of course I will use spacers that take the insulation to a flat depth with the raised frame around the panel.
Thanks for your encouragement. Let me know if I’m saving time but creating problems.
Instead of latus strips, can you use paint stiring sticks?
Sure, anything to keep it from surface to surface contact. Thanks for watching!
The silver side should be placed inside, that will make it more efficient to deflect the heat from the door.
Hi there, i want to insulate my single garage door and I live im North east. Will your method help with either cold or hot temps in garage? After I install your method, do I need to adjust for any tension issues on the garage door? Thanks
Yes, I had my garage door guy adjust my springs a bit (they scared me too much to diy). It only gets to freezing a few times each winter here in Las Vegas but when it gets cold my Buddy heater works great. Here is an update video I made with more information ▶️th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.htmlsi=fDF0NO13GkdHdAnS
The hindge supports are not insulated. Why did you not use spray foam to insulate? I like your approach and I intend to insulate each hindfge segment to make as complete a heat barrier as I can. Would appreciate your thought on this extra step.
Spray-foam is a good idea and the cost would be minimal. Thanks for watching!
From what I understand the best air gap is about 1/2 inch. Any more and you have circulation and defeats the gap function. You are best to put more layers of insulation which have the microcells already in the material. The weight of the insulation is not important. You just adjust your garage spring so that the door is actually weightless.
Also the hot or cold climate does not matter. In a cold climate the hot area is inside and in a hot climate the cold area is on the inside assuming you have A/C. My wall of my house have R 20 insulation and on the outside is R 10 Blue SM. If made an airgap in the middle of my wall , it would just lower the overall insulation of my house and do no good at all.
The insulation value of a 1/2 inch airgap is about R = 1 while the 1/2 inch Polyisocyanurate is probably about R!0, so 10 times better than an air gap. Also if you use airgaps , in places that aren't walls so you have space for air gaps, to keep them to 1/2 inch or they are useless. The air inside quickly sets up a convection current and transmits the heat or cold perfectly.
Great great video! I’m doing my garage door immediately……
you used the nail to hold the chalk line ?
How well does this work for cold temperatures?
Here in Las Vegas it only gets down to freezing a few times per winter buy when it does, Buddy Heater makes the garage pretty comfortable.
What was the temperature difference after you were done?
Here is a follow up video with tons of temperatures ➡️th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
How would work for someone that lives in minnesota where it gets zegetive zero?
That’s a really good question! It does not get that cold here in Las Vegas.
I can feel a draft of air coming through my garage door at the seams where the panels hinge and butt up against each other. Would covering those gaps with a bubble wrap insulation be a good idea or any possible better solutions? Yours looks great by the way.
There really shouldn’t be much of a “gap”. It could be that your door needs adjustment. Thanks for watching!
Might be a little expensive, use the rubber door strips with aluminum edge. Maybe your garage door man might have some rubber stripping that goes
on bottom of door. (Used/free)
nice work fred
Thanks for watching!
Keep your garage cool 😎 and insulate that door! Mine was 140°F in the sun! Here is the follow up videoth-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
🔴 Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/mrfredsdiy/
What were the results?
The big difference is the actual door itself. It is no longer 140°. In the full sun the door is now the same temperature as the garage and my garage no longer has giant temperature fluctuations. It’s hard to say scientifically but it’s 10-15°. Thanks for watching!
@@MrFredsDIY Just use your temperature sensor and scan the door in 8 locations - average the temp, and compare it to the room temp.
@@TheEternalPresent here is a follow-up video. Garage Door Insulated The Right Way (Proof It Works)
th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
Wouldn't it be easier to replace the door with an insulated door?
He should have changed the springs from 207x22x2 to 218x26x2
22 years in the garage door business,resi and commercial
Hello, how much Horse Power does the engine has?
Awesome! Thanks 😊
Thanks for comments!
Can you or did you provide temps on outside and inside againt the garage door to see the change?
Here is a follow up video that I made with lots of temperature data! th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.htmlsi=SQciVyF5fe_FGXcg
@@MrFredsDIY Thanks for the details and now I am considering that project for our garage door in Texas where the heat is about the same but the winter is or is not that cold. ;-)
You definitely need to have your springs upgraded after adding all that weight. You will have problems long term if you don't accommodate for all the added weight!
Thanks for watching. 25lbs was the total weight added. Here is an update video for this one.Garage Door Insulated The Right Way (Proof It Works)
th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
@@MrFredsDIY Yes you definitely need to get your springs updated. The general rule of thumb is anything over 10 lbs you need to change the springs. The door is supposed to hang in balance from the springs and adding even as little as that will change the balance. Long term this will cause wear and tear and possibly breakage of your opener. I strongly suggest you get your springs updated ASAP.
@@evilnuff5950 having a professional evaluate your door after installing insulation is definitely recommended! I had mine checked out and adjusted.
@@MrFredsDIY Glad to hear that!
Anyone calculate the R value for this?
Did you have to recalibrate the garage door opener? I saw others who had this problem from the weight of the insulation?
As a matter of fact I did have my torsion springs adjusted to compensate for the weight difference. Thanks for watching!
Are you using .5 inch or 1 inch?
1/2 “ was used for this project.
Temp after installation please.😅😅😁😁
foil needs to face air to be radiant
I tried this first but the 2” insulation works better. The air gap is a GREAT idea but the first time you bump it you crease it or put a hole in it. Stay with the 2” boys and girls.
Great video, however, adding weight to the door will put the door out of balance making your opener have to work much harder and also potentially dangerous.
Adding insulation to a garage door DOES add weight to the door and will often require an adjustment to the torsion springs. Adjusting the springs brings the door back into balance no additional stress is transferred to the opener. Thanks for watching!
I’m not trying to be critical and I appreciate you taking the time to make videos. They are very useful and helpful and you’re doing a great service.
Adding turns to a torsion spring is NEVER a good idea. Springs are cut to a balanced size and lift. Adding more turns doesn’t make the springs “stronger” it only changes the Balance point making the door more difficult to pull down from the top. This is not only dangerous to overload springs but your opener will be working nearly twice as hard trying to close that door.
Why are you wasting the chalk line if you've got a T-Square? Just use the factory edges.
Not sure if this is worth the time instead of just using 1.5 or 2 inch foam. I'd be surprised if the R rating from the air gap is anything more than marginal.
Thanks for sharing this video. This is quite labor intensive when compared to filling up the space with 1" - 2" solid sheet. It would be great if you could follow up with a thermal scanner video just to confirm if it's worth to take this approach. Thanks again.
With a foil backed foam it needs an air gap or work or the foil aspect is useless and you're just putting foam in. I think this video's process is great, but maybe a bit overkill for the everyday person--I chose to just do one layer instead of the two he did (for ease and finances). But obviously two would be better than one since the air gaps let less and less heat transfer through each subsequent one. In Arizona he probably needs this.
Good luck with your project! I was contemplating this project for quite some time. I wanted to do something more than the normal thick foam kit because it’s so blessed HOT here in Las Vegas. My neighbor has the regular foam and he is happy. I just wanted more lol.
@@MrFredsDIY dude! i just had to start living in my in-laws garage in Las Vegas as well. (mtn. edge) because....well i'm sure you can get a few ideas probably why and one or 2 could probably be correct. Anyway its just killing my wife and I along with are big fatty cat. i was able to get a little a/c unit but its not big enough at all to really feel a difference unless your right next to it. so iv been trying to think of how i can put up make shift walls that will help keep the cool air in a smaller area but my big issue i think is the garage door. by 8:30 -9:00 A.M. i feel that heat just radiant against the door because mine faces south and gets contact from the sun till it starts setting.... i would really like to use the stuff like you did in your video but i cant afford that. i mean i was going to see if i could collect something like really big packing foam from a maybe a fridge or what ever and wrap it in my own foil from the kitchen.. lol its like that for me right now. thank you for your time and video very easy to follow and understand. maybe if you have any ideas or know where i could salvage some scraps so we don't cook and over heat because the rate its going its not looking to good. Not to mention on top of everything i can only work on it at night because its the only time its barrable to work in there but i need to sleep at night so i can get to work in the A.M. sorry for the long message. just had to vent i guess. look forward to seeing more videos. thanks again Levi Patton
it works, have always done this and it is well worth it
@@MrFredsDIY Very good idea, the air gap does create more insulation. I built 2" frame inside my 60" X 60" single pane window, wrap insulation window film with air gap. Really help to keep the cold out.
Wish you'd have shown the exterior temperature outside and inside before and after
Yes this update is needed.
@@HotmailHacks Here is an update I just finished th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
The exterior temperature shouldn't change.... it the interior temp that changes. If the exterior does change it will be very slight.
@@davids7209 I don't think you're understanding what everyone is trying to say here.
Exterior temp
Interior temp before
Interior temp after
These will indeed dictate its success.
I admire the creativeity and the detail, but I have to side with the 2" thickness vs the 1/2".
Although 2" is heavier, it is in NO WAY "heavy"!! Especially when only 3 1/2 sheets are needed for a double door.
It's also a little more expensive, but the 3 1/2 sheets needed at $46 each is only about $50 more than the 7 sheets needed if using the 1/2".
Additionally, rather than just the R-6.4 that you have, (R-3.2 x 2 layers), just one sheet of 2" would have given you R-13!
Finally, the heat trapped in the air gap STILL has to transfer and dissapate somwhere, and that will be whichever side is cooler.
I also dont see where the difference between 8 sheets of 0.5" vs your estimate of 3.5 sheets of 2" (maybe is just that the cell has at least two sides and you are not making the cell design
So you are going to leave us all hanging? What temperature difference did it make in your garage? What is the r value that you got out of that? What was your temperatures before which we saw, and what was your temperatures after? What was the temperature inside the garage? I live in a part of Texas and I would like to do something similar but it has to make mathematical sense and it has to drop the temperature in my garage by more than maybe a piddly five degrees or six degrees which does absolutely nothing
He provided limited info in response to some comments (months ago). There will be a follow up video in July. How do I know that? I read comments and replies when I am interested in something.
Here is a follow up I just published th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
@@MrFredsDIY Thank you for the updated video with the results and benefits. Edit: Would be helpful to amend your description for this video with the link posted here. Thank you sir.
Why can’t garage door manufacturers build garage doors with these features already? It’s ridiculous how vulnerable they are to break-ins and weather conditions.
Looks really good! Thank you for sharing. I live in Arizona and am considering doing this with my garage doors. Just a couple of questions. You used wood spacers tabled to the surface. Do you worry that the heat will release the adhesive and these spacers will end up rattling loose behind the inserted foam panel? Could you have cut your panels from the width dimension, 48”, of the large foam for easier workability and less waste? Have you tested this for effectiveness? Please provide a review video months later if you can. Pros and cons and what you may have done differently. Thank you!
I'm on year two of my installation and haven't noticed any rattling. But I used dryer foil tape and put one on each end of the stick just to make sure it wouldn't slide around. Seems to be holding well because the foam pushes on the sticks anyway.
Metallic tape trick I recently learned: wet a tiny corner of the paper side. Use a thumb-nail to scratch off the wet paper. Now you can easily peel back the metallic tape and apply!!
You added an awful lot of weight to that door. The springs won't last long, and if you are using an opener with the heavy door, then you run into a whole world of problems. For instance, the top panel middle style will start to come apart. It typically leaves a hair like tare in the door off to the side of the panel. Taht tare will go down each panel and show in all the panels. You are also putting extremely heavy loads on the opener sprocket. As this job might look nice and be very cheap to do, it will cost you more down the road when the fine details are not considered when doing this type of work. I change countless doors and openers from people using things outside what the manufacturer has designed for the door.
Thanks for checking out the video! Here is the follow up video for this project th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html . This insulation did not add an awful lot of weight to the door and in fact it only added just under 25 lbs. The typical styrofoam garage door kit for this size of door adds about 20lbs of insulation. These kits are sold widely at the big box stores. Adding weight to a garage door usually requires an adjustment to the torsion springs as was the case with my door. I had my garage door guy adjust my springs and I can lift it easily with little effort. The motor doesn’t work any harder than it did before this project.
You did a great job with the design, and explaining it, and then demonstrating the installation. You failed, however, to show a before and after temperature reading. You responded to comments asking about it but only by saying that the inside door temp was basically the same as the air temp inside the garage. You never gave us any numbers. What is the air temp in the garage!! Give us some sort of reference to know just how well it worked. Not doing so makes me wonder if you were disappointed with the results and don't want to get too specific with the results. The proof is in the numbers.
Yeah what a waste of a video. No facts
I agree!
I agree also, I watched the entire video to see the end results of all the work and money invested. I live in Phoenix and have the same heat problem but without seeing the end temps for the inside on this build it was a waste.
@@znelson32 Thanks for checking out the video. I just finished the follow-up th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
He said it was 117 degrees outside, without humidity in AZ and based on what he's wearing and not sweating it probably drops the temp about 25-30 degrees. We did this to our garage with temps in high 90's and high humidity and it cooled it to mid 70's
Well done. I'm in a milder climate however, the humidity makes up for it. I'd like to see some up close assembly shots of what you were doing. The right spacer being shorter confused me as the left should have been shorter as well for the top panel to sit on both evenly, correct? What have you done to combat the exposed aluminum rails? They are essentially heatsinks as well.
Chris High, I think the left side of the door cavity is recessed. The 44" of the top panel does not go inside the recess, but sits on top at all the edges. The top and bottom is the same, not reduced width for top to sit on but to create the "box" edges.
Cool project and the little foam strips around the perimeter to make the "cell" is a good effective idea. The little lattice strips should keep the back panel from contacting the doors' surface. Theory is to limit the heat transfer and 2 little contact points hopefully reduce the transfer.
I edited my previous post... I watched again and the little scraps he tapes onto the back panel are the spacers to have some support for the top panel and another air gap. That right edge foam strip that goes in before he measures the panel lengths, was not a spacer (works as 1 though), but it was the edge of the "box" and was thinner because the top panel sits on top of it flush with door rails. I was a little confused too. Hope that helps.
Not to rain on anyone's parade but, Sika and Johns Mansville polyisocyanurate boards are now required to be covered by a thermal barrier. Sika states: "Installations utilizing R-Matte® Plus-3 must be fully protected on the inhabited side of the building by a thermal barrier such as a minimum of 1/2” gypsum wallboard." And JM states that "AP Foil-Faced sheathing must be separated from the interior of a building by either a thermal barrier or ignition barrier as required by code." All the foam plastic insulation products are now required to have this protection however most do not provide that information on their product, only in the fine print of their installation instructions. There were exceptions in some of the adopted codes for thicknesses and area limitations but they are not universal and many have been discontinued. The toxic fumes given off by these products are often fatal when inhaled.
Please note that there are some polyisocyanurate panels which meet higher standards and are not required to have a thermal barrier but those panels are very expensive and are not found in the box stores. Check with your local building departments and get a letter from them stating that the material in question may be left uncovered. If they will not give you a letter - look elsewhere for insulation. Clark County is unusually tough on this - a result of the MGM fire many years ago.
And now the door is heavy.
I had a boxcutter jump off a t-square while I was cutting and cut the tip of my finger off. It wasn't recent and I was cutting shingles, but be careful folks.
I love how everyone is an expert. Nothing special about putting insulation in garage door panels. You did all that extra work for nothing because the foam itself is the insulator. Your design is meant for window installation where the gas in between the two panes acts as the insulator....smh
Foil-coated polystyrene (styrofoam) board is (at least in my area) much cheaper than Polyiso, and will perform effectively just as well. As to the "double-sided reflective insulation" - reflective barriers are one-way insulating strategies. The foil facing the outside will reflect radiated heat back to the exterior. The interior-facing reflective barrier will actually be hurting your efforts in a hot climate, as any radiated heat from objects in the garage will be reflected...back into the garage.
While the styrofoam can be more fragile if you scrape against it, I found its flexibility to be a bonus, wherein I did not have to cut spacers due to the design of my garage door panels that had a natural crevice for the board sections to hold their place in towards the interior side of the panels. I was able to cup/bend my board sections enough where they popped back into place once inside the metal lip of the door panels. I used no additional tape/foam/glue, and the panels have stayed perfectly in place since I did the project 5 years ago.
As to the "added weight/springs" issue some have brought up - polystyrene is also much lighter than Polyiso, such that (personal opinion only) - I saw no need to upgrade my springs, nor have I noted any detrimental effects of the insulation on the door mechanics.
As I watched the video, I did see that the interior-facing reflective barrier was facing into the inside; so, it is safe to say that it should be install facing the garage door(outside) instead?
@@JoseMartinez-dk1pw Depends on your climate and desires. In South TX, I’m far more interested in keeping heat out than keeping heat in.
@@justinjimenez6960, I totally agree with you regarding keeping the heat out; that is why I asked if the reflective barrier should be facing the garage or should be facing away from it. Thanks
I’m not an expert but I imagine if you’re in a climate that gets cold as well as hot you’d find it beneficial to help keep heat inside in the winters?
@@benjaminking5450 Yup. Whatever your need case is. For me, I've never lived anywhere I wanted to keep heat in.
Has anyone taken into account the heat from an SUV once it parks in the garage and radiates it’s heat into the garage? I want to insulate but I feel like I will trap the heat from hot cars
HEY! You didn't give a before and after temperature reading!
This video has temperature comparisons Garage Door Insulated The Right Way (Proof It Works)
th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
I like the idea up to the tape. Not sure if the tape will hold up. After a year, did it?
Areas that were clean and dirt free have held up well. I have a few area that I have has to clean better and reapply. I have a follow up video for this on my channel. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great detailed video Mr. Fred. I like your method and will do the same. I found the sheets at Home Depot. How many 4 X 8’ sheets do you need per garage door?
I used 8 sheets. There is a breakdown of matin the video description. Thanks for watching!
Your torsion springs are really going to love all the additional weight added to them panels. Not only have you decreased the life cycle of the springs, your causing unnecessary stress on the garage door opener. People if your going to insulate your panels, the springs need to be replaced and proper springs installed with the added weight taken into consideration. It might not seem like much weight, but it’s more than you would think.
Applying more tension to the springs only decreases the life cycles even further. Typically manufacturers give 10,000 life cycles on torsion springs, you can easily take off a couple to few thousand by this very method
Did you adjust door springs to account for added weight? Even though weight seems light there are added lbs to the door which can affect door openers function. Just thinking out loud. Your system appears to be so much more energy efficient.
Thanks for commenting. The springs were adjusted, I had my garage door guy do that for me. Here is a follow up video with tons more information.th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.htmlsi=fs3Rf6SlQ2CM1a2c
Mr. Fred, do you find it also keeps the garage warmer in winter? Here in Texas, I'm sure it will work well in summer, but I'm wondering if it will reduce heat transmission out of the garage in summer?
It’s in the 40’s at night here now so not too cold. When I use my Buddy Heater it seems to reflect off the insulation and keep my work area warmer. Thanks for watching!
I wish you would have shown the thermal difference.
Makes me wonder why this isn’t just standard practice in warmer climates. Thanks for the video!
Expense. No builder is going to take on the cost and time unless the homeowners specifically pay for it. And doing it yourself is waaaaay cheaper than paying for an install!
Here is a follow up I just finished th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
The added weight will throw off the calibration of your springs. The door won’t balance and if not serviced will make your operator work harder but y’all knew this already.
I had my door guy recalibrate my springs to compensate. Thanks for checking out the video!
I like this design. I wish Fred would have shown how the cells hold up to several garage door openings and closings. I have found that the abuse of the openings and closings can cause insulation like this to start to come out of the door cells over time.
You can take it a step higher and get 1/8" wire rod (I used brazing rod from welding supply/Tractor supply type stores). Drill hole at top & bottom of panel and run rod down, bend at top end to keep in place. Does a nice job.
I am in Northern climate. I used foam kit. Quick question: with foam do you still recommend tape?
I’ve had good luck with foil tape. If you do go that route I recommend spending extra time cleaning and preparing the surfaces. Thanks for watching!
I just used Reflectix to insulate the interior of my cargo van for my camping trips. It made a tremendous difference for hot or cold!
I used the leftover material to make an insulation panel to shield my AC condensor in the patio from the summer sun. The area above the panel facing the sun was 140 degrees and the area below the panel was 95 degrees! The concrete floor of the patio where it is installed was 120 degrees!
Reflectex isn't an insulation, it's a radiant barrier.
@@evictioncarpentry2628 I do realize that, but it does cut down the inside temperature as well.
The one and only thing I’d do different is for the spacers I would not trust the one flap of tape I would use an adhesive and cover the entire back side of the spacer this way you can eliminate the possibility of the spacers failing internally
Can you explain what tape you used? I've tried using duct tape and it has failed on several areas.Thanks
I used a couple different brands with mixed results. The brand I am using now is called “Flex Fit” and seems to be working well. Time will be the test! Thanks for the question!
My garage is detached. Couldn't I use this in the walls instead of traditional batts??
In a conventional and framed structure, I would imagine traditional insulation would give you more R-value. I have seen people put 4 x 8 sheets of polyisocyanurate as a wall covering instead of drywall.
I can’t believe I watched till the end and there was no before and after temperature comparison. Lame.
Thanks for checking out the video! Here is a recent follow-up with many temperature data points.
th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
Hello very good video!! What kind of tape are you using?? Thanks
Thanks for watching the video! The rape is Multi-Purpose Foil Tape, 46m Length, 48 mm Width, Aluminum
amzn.to/3iWcKaK
what if instead of using all the extra strips on top and bottom... run a bead of expanding foam insulation between panel and door panel. the foam would push the insulation panel out against the lip of door panels and create a good sealed air pocket
Interesting concept! Thanks for watching!
I would like to see a before and after reading with a meter.
I made a follow up video to this one with a lot of temperature data. You can watch it here.▶️th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.htmlsi=aAXWGDMC5I8qzwmX
I'd like to know the before and after temperature inside the garage to see how much difference?😊❤
Here is a follow up video that I made with lots of temperature data Garage Door Insulated The Right Way (Proof It Works)
th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
I've watched several of these vids and I like this plan the best, the double air gap will help to prevent heat transfer from on substrate to the next. Good plan. Thanks.
🤔 Why use wooden spacers versus foam spacers?
Why the air cell between the foam panels versus three full foam layers?
I agree with the air gap between the foam and the metal as long as there is trapped air flow to the outside.
What was the Delta T (Deg F) between the outer skin and inner skin after the mod?
What is the fire retardancy of the foam, as well as the toxicity of the burning off gas? This is after all a garage. If the foam is flammable then applying thick AL foil or thin sheet metal w/ glue would prevent spark ignition.
Thanks for an interesting presentation.
I used the wooden trim because it was thin and allowed for a larger “cell cavity”. A solid thick piece of foam would contact transfer heat more readily than the cell design. Here’s a follow up video.th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
You would think there’d would have been conclusion temperature measurements…
This follow up video has more data points. th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
Did Sika stop producing these sheets? I can't find them anywhere.
Here in Las Vegas both Lowe’s and Home Depot have them in stock still. It could be a regional supply issue, thanks for watching.!
It would be to heavy. Some garage door motors would struggle for that much extra weight?
A simple spring adjustment by my garage door guy is all that was needed. Thanks for checking out the video.!
so why didnt u show how it effected your temps?
Would this work well for cold weather or is there something different you would do in colder weather?
If I were in a colder climate I would probably do it the same way. Thanks for watching!
Some had issues of too much weight on the garage door springs. Did you have issues with that?
The only issue that I had with garage door springs was to have them adjusted to compensate for the weight differential. This ends up being true for pretty much any insulation kit applied to overhead doors like mine.
@@MrFredsDIY thanks that’s more money to have them come out and adjust I assume.
solid foam sheets are a great product except for one issue. they are extremely flammable and give off all kinds of toxic fumes when burning
Thanks for watching the video! This foam is NOT extremely flammable. From Polyiso.org: Polyiso insulation delivers a high level of inherent fire resistance when compared to other foam plastic insulations due to its unique structure of strong isocyanurate chemical bonds. These bonds result in improved high temperature resistance (up to 390 degrees F; more than twice the temperature resistance of other building insulation foams) which in turn leads to enhanced fire resistance. It also,conforms to code.
@@MrFredsDIY i stand corrected, thanks for the information
So does all this foam adds extra weight for the motor . It won’t over work it ?
Great question! For me, this process added about 25 pounds. I had my garage door guy. Adjust my torsion springs to compensate.
How much weight does that add to the garage door and does it affect the opening and closing?
Great questions! Every insulation option will add weight to a garage door and Polyiso is no exception. It did add weight to the door and I had my garage door guy adjust my torsion springs to compensate. Here is a follow up video that I made with tons of specific data points. Thanks for watching! th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
Would have loved to see the same time of day with similar temps in the same time of year measured before and after. Another user posted that the foil should be pointed outwards, but foil is also conductive, as well as radiative. I think that its a wash between the two, but probably MORE resistant to heat leakage in climates that have colder climates as well when facing inwards.
Thanks for the insights. Having the reflective side inward helps with heating & cooling the garage space (even if only a little). Here is a follow up a year later with more data points. th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
The foil should be facing inwards with the white part facing out. It helps with IR barrier
You have a laser gun. Why didn't you use it to show the data/results at the end?
Thanks for watching! I made an entire follow up video complete with thermal imaging to answer popular questions. Here is the link th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
Dose this work well also for cold weather trying to keep my garage warmerr
It gets cold here in Las Vegas at night and some days in the winter also. It makes a difference! Here is a follow up video with more temperature statistics.Garage Door Insulated The Right Way (Proof It Works)
th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
Wait, no after install temperature results to show the benefits of the insulation? I went through the whole video hoping for positive results at the end.
Show us the damn results with a with the temp readings other wise it all means nothing
Here is a follow up video. Lots of results th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
What size foam did you use 1/2 inch or smaller?
Yes, 1/2”. Thanks for watching the video!
What was the temp difference? Not sure I heard it mentioned.
Here is a follow up video with lots of temperatures, thanks for watching! th-cam.com/video/PMiOitCwpak/w-d-xo.html
does this help reduce mold growth in the garage as well or unrelated?
I am not sure about mold. Here in Las Vegas it’s not much of an issue in garages. Thanks for watching!
@@MrFredsDIY Oh its Vegas. Im sure you guys are mold free lol