To get the knife aligned quicker, put a washer on each screw. What moves the bracket is the friction between the screw and the bracket, and a washer will definitely help with that!
@8:43 for the fence that close to the blade you may want to use the narrow cut attachment to alleviate the issue with the tightening screw. Thanks otherwise for a good detailed and useful review! And by the way, if that is of interest for anyone, this saw is made in Taiwan (where Bosch makes some of its higher quality power tools, after Germany of course).
I've also bought one of these saws. Generally I'm very pleased with it. However, I must mention the mitre slots. There are two significant problems with them: 1. They are of non-standard width (narrower) so many tools which come with a slider will not fit. 2. They are not of equal depth so the sliders one makes have to be of different heights or, as I've done with my cross cut sled, routed out a slot to sink one of the sliders into.
For the riving knife I'd recommend trying to put some split washers between the Allen screws and the cast part of the knife. Might not eliminate the shifting upon tightening completely, but will surely alleviate it. And for dropped screws there is always magnets! Fancy telescopic ones or just simply one tied to a string :)
Wow. And I thought the issues were just me or my GTS10xc. You've exactly the same issues as I have. Bosch should really fix these issues and provide us improvements.
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice th-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Thanks for the video, Andreas! I bought this saw in January 2020 after many reviews and comparison videos watched. It has been almost 2 years now and I have to say I also had to adapt my work and techniques to accommodate for many flaws, but there are some that you showed and some you didn't that I still consider as flaws that should not exist in such a costly product. The parallel fence - I simply cannot get it parallel to blade from nor the directions! I simply loosened the back screw a little to not grip that hard, I then set up the fence, lock it and use a ruler to check distance at the front of the blade and at the back (using same saw tooth). By tapping slightly on the back of the fence I can then bring it to distance to be 99+% parallel. It is far from optimal and sometimes takes me few minutes of checking and tapping till I consider it parallel enough. Another problem is setting an angle. I had to adjust the stops (at 90 and 45 degrees) and I have to always check and re-adjust from time to time. I bought a digital angle finder and use that to set my angles which is far more reliable. My built-in sled has a lot of play (about 2-3mm at the back) which I consider a lot. The play can be adjusted by removing it, loosening the screws holding the rails it slides in, making these parallel and then putting the sled back. I saw this in another video but haven't done it myself, as I also built a separate sled myself. I also found that when I use this one from time to time together with the miter gauge that was part of the saw, I simply have to push all the way do the right at the very front of sled and then push forward (i.e. pushing it forward at an angle). And there is another issue I am not able to find a source for - when ripping the wood, mostly hardwood, the blade vibrates leaving uneven cut with some deep marks. This makes it impossible to use the saw for jointing boards for later gluing them together. I do not own a jointer and didn't have much luck so far jointing the boards using a hand plane. And then the dust! It is everywhere! All these issues you have described and I added make me quite dissatisfied with the product I bought for 700 Eur. Unfortunately, there is no alternative, even in the higher cost segment. However, I am considering to buy a new Dewalt 7492 which seem to have issues with the dust and parallel fence solved! These two things keep me motivated to do the switch. Anyway - how is your experience nowadays (almost 5 years after buying the saw)? Do you still have it? Do you still use it?
I've seen reviews of the dewalt showing that the table platform doesn't come flat and that almost always it dips and there is a low spot around the blade.
I bought one, after watch you (not machine) in this video. I have watched a lot of review. But I had get a decision after this. Seriously Thanks a lot.
Extremely well detailed review. Very useful for me because i'm still not sure to go for a contractor saw or a bigger/heavier cabinet saw. Thank you for sharing your experience.
I have the same saw. to align the riving nife i have 2 tricks. If you position the fence against the saw blade this can be your square. You can push the riving nife to the fence then. besides the 2 screws to fix the riving nife there is a 3 small screw that you can turn in or outwards. this is a screw that keeps the riving nife streight you have to adjust this once. your fence can help with that. i fully agree with you on the other points. al in all I thing it is a pretty good saw. I have it since 3 years and build an out feed table arround it. thanks for sharing your thoughts on this saw.
Please see my comment above. no need to ever remove the riving knife mount...only the knife = no alignment.
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Thanks for that information. The most important thing about a table saw is a perfect and accurate fence. If the fence does not work well, then the saw is only good for cutting firewood. So when I saw how bad the fence was on this saw (5:35) I realized that this saw is not for me. It's a shame, because I really liked that you could store all the accessories under the saw and it seemed otherwise okay.
I have since learned to use the fence properly - I just have to push it to the left very slightly before clamping it down. That way, I get accurate results.
Good review - I have the same saw for over a year too and have found similar draw backs with the sliding table play. As for the hood that fits to the riving knife, you can very easily just hoist up the knife. It has uses 2 spring loaded bearings (at 9m44s) for a position lock for a top and bottom position. I'll make a video reply to illustrate this as well as some of the upgrades (modifications). Yes, Dust is an issue with the knife as well as collection. I made changes to my stand to deal with this but you are 100% correct - best review I've seen on the saw . Mein deutch ist nicht gut, so it'll be in English! Greetings from South Africa
About that blade change issue: perhaps try a rotating wrench with stronger magnet attached to it (to prevent the nut from dropping). No idea if it works, but it just came to my mind. This video is right on point!
I just purchased the same model recently. Great to watch your review, I will test my fence, probably it will need an update to make it align in parallel.
Yes replacing the blade is a pain and even more of a pain when you bore size of the blade is bigger and you have to use the insert (shim) ring and you end up dropping that too. I think we all agree with you as we all have the same problem. The plastic hood is different to the one I have, it is made up of two pieces with metal arms that moves up as you push the work piece towards the blade, also seen another version of this hood. It seems like different countries got different hoods.
thx a lot, your english is very clear and easy to understand for non-native english viewer. The rythm of the video is very good too: you speak not to slow (so we could get borred) not to fast (so we could not understand or remember important things). Great review. Anyway, did you notice the left sliding table precision can be adjusted? some people say the precision could be adjusted to around 0,2mm, that seams to me very acceptable.
I have just bought one and the fence was a bit juddery, but I have used a machine wax on the channels and it slides sweetly and accurately. I also waxed all the channels and runners. Now everything slides easily and quietly. Also when changing the blade stand the saw on its left end and undo the two screws, drop down the bottom and everthing is easily accessible.
To remedy play on the fence just snug the handle a little bit and it will eliminate. The same is with my Metabo bandsaw, if I loosen the handle completely I have side to side play, but once half engaged it snugs up just enough but without actually locking it
Get a rubber door stop (or some other lump of soft plastic) and silastic it to the off switch lever or put a screw through from the other side into it as well if that is possible. I'll have a look at mine when I get it in a few days. I will probably silastic something on it as I can then remove it if I have a warranty problem. With a 3 yr warranty I don't want a claim knocked back because they recon I modified the unit and voided the warranty.
Another issue with the cross cut slide that you may not have noticed is that is is slightly raised to the table height meaning anything that rides on it will be just slightly out of square. I really want to correct this by removing the slides and replacing with thinner bars (it will then not move). This will allow me to build a cross cut sled and I only have the fact that the channel that side is very shallow as an issue (and that they are cast rather than machined) which is something I cannot fix. I think with your issue with the riving knife, if you add washers under the bolt heads that should fix it moving. I will try this tomorrow when I put mine back on. I don't think the fence is any worse than other similar saws, they are all a bit wobbly.
I have this saw and completely agree with your overview. I have it on the mobile stand as I use it in different locations and I like the stand. One extra problem is that sawdust accumulates in the bottom of the case and although there is a grill to let it fall out much of it stays in and it becomes a problem when wheeling it through clean areas. I cut a hole in the grill so I have better access for sucking out the dust. Thanks for your review keep them coming 😀
Hi Andreas, great review. I have this saw and I agree with all you say. Two more downsides though. When the fence sit in its place to the left I have had a situation a couple of times there T-part gets stuck between the saw body and the off switch lever, meaning I can't actually switch off the saw. Quite a safety issue I wouldn't have expected from bosch. Another thing is that the miter slots are not same width, very strange! Overall I like the saw. I built a big panel size cross cut sled that rests on the extension. Instead of having to cut a very accurate runner for the right miter slot. I cut a 30 cm wide piece of 10 mm particle board that runs between the table and the extension. I can easily adjust to tight fit by pushing the extension gently inwards towards the runner, and lock.
Thanks for your feedback, Jesper. I agree with point one: I rarely use the saw with the parallel fence stored away but it IS hard to use the switch in that position. Good idea with the cross-cut sled. Thanks for sharing!
I bought the PTS 10. I have the same porblem with the parallel fence. It will not adjust correct when tightening. I use this solution. Before tightening the fence, pull the fence toward the front and the fence will correct itself. Hope this helps.
when i change the blade on my GTS 10XC and i drop the nut or the washer i use the magnet from any tape ruler i have nearby to pick it up. You don't really need that magnet on the tip of your tape rulers for measuring in woodworking but i like to have all my rulers in my workshop from the same manufacturer and now i have magnet tip tape rulers from Yato. And you never know hiw good those magnets are until you drope some metal thing in a hard to reach corner.
Hey Andreas, in minute 8.45 you mention the problem with the locking knob. I bought a BOSCH PTS10 (green) a few weeks ago, which is very similar to yours. The guide mentions that the reduction should be used for that type of narrow cut (your video minute 2.15). In this way, I do not think you'll hit the knob. Maybe a solution? By the way, thanks for sharing your knowledge. I am a beginner and search the net for such welcome info.
Thanks for this suggestion. That might be a solution - even though it’s a bit of a hassle to mount that reduction all the time. But I’ll keep it in mind. Thank you!
I have a zero clearens plate, I think ill make it my main plate, and insted of the riving kine ill attach those small table saw splitters. I had a few projects in the past which really frustrated me for not being able to make a true 90 degree angel. when I removed the riving knife it all got much better. Im also considering getting back to a portable saw for long crosscuts. with a proper T type of fance there will be no misalignments, allothough it will take longer and will be less comfortable to work. but accuracy is the thing I alwase seek for. even the smallest diffrence in angels can drive me crazy haha
Great video. Actually Makita MLT100x is very bad saw for active use, but makita 2704 which I have already 3 years aprox. is very good saw and presise too. It cost me about 600€. I will never spend 900€ for a saw like Bosch GTS 10 XC.
The riving knife adjustment really drives me nuts too. I bought thin a cross cut blade at the same time as the saw, since it seems much more appropriate for the type of work I do than a ripping blade. It took me far too long to get it right. I also found the way you tilt the blade a bit disappointing. I find it very hard to adjust to a precise angle. I would have preferred some kind of a wheel, but it seems to be a common system for the saws in that price range. For the crosscut sliding carriage, it seems possible to adjust it but I yet have to do it.
I was wondering... I doesn't have such a great machine, so I can't try it, but wouldn't it be easier if you just clamp the blade and the riving knife together with a peice of wood, so it'll be in perfectly a fixed position while you tighten the screws? :)
Ausrichten des Spaltkeils geht ganz einfach. Mit der Einhandzwinge am Sägeblatt arrettieren. Schrauben festziehen fertig. Perfekt gefluchtet. Tolles Video btw.
I think my comments arrive a little late: I saw the date of your video now. I hope they can be useful anyway First time in your channel! Congratulations on your review, really honest. As already mentioned by 3DHERO I also think that using the additional guide can bypass the problem of the lever tighten protection, but surely if the bolt was turned 180 ° the problem would not be presented. Regarding the emergency lever, I think that if you add a thickness at the point of contact between the red lever and the "OFF" button you should be able to recover the problem that, as you say, as it leaves the factory, it is not very practical. About disassembling the blade you could try to build a small accessory: folded like this: J "(take the letter J and the quotes as a drawing and imagine the axis of the blade on the left side of the drawing) the curved part of J is of sufficient diameter to contain nut and washer and at the end of the short side of the J stick a small magnet with a smaller diameter than the blade axis, which you will place on the axis head after loosening the nut, so you will be sure not to drop them. for this "magnetic wonder J" you could use one of those metal plates that hold the rubber trowel in an old windshield wiper. It is hard enough to hang from the magnet
Thank you for a great review. Here's an idea for you: Try putting a little magnet on a stick to fish up any dropped bolts from the inside of the machine instead of turning it over.
I have the TS-4000. Nice to see they fixed the miter slots, and even changed them to T-slots. On blade changes, I recommend a flexible magnetic pickup tool. ;) I work on lower profile sports cars at times. I'm used to fetching. lol. I remember a Bosch sales rep, who was present when I bought my saw. He demonstrated one person can rip a 4 x 8 foot sheet of plywood. (with outfeed, and side feed supports installed.) I like my power switch better, It's a lift, and slap, that looks like the external of your switch. The need feature about it, was upon sawing and pushing through a full sheet, you can use your knee to bump the saw switch OFF. Thank you for the video! Nice job.
Great video. I'm out shopping for one for the first time. It seems that on this category every brand and model has its flaws on its fences and miter gauges and whatnot, so they'll require extra time to fix and upgrade.
Great review. Thank you. I have the same saw. For the knife issue. Together with washers, would 2 magnetic flat bars not be able to keep the blade and knife aligned?
Helpful video thanks. Idea for the riving knife, move the fence up to the blade and then clamp the riving knife to the fence before doing up the screws. Should get you pretty much bang on without having to mess around too much.
The shut off is set back a bit to avoid hitting it accidently with your lag while making a cut. The Dewalt for instance has a switch cover which stands out further and its a common occurrence to tap it off while cutting in close causing the saw to shut down while cutting. No good. Great review. Very good indeed.
i'd heard about the bad fence on this saw, something so fundamental to accurate cuts , its ridiculous that bosch couldnt get it right, and the screw on the blade hood should never have got past quality control. im glad i opted for the dewalt saw with rack and pinion fence, even though it has a smaller rip capacity.
Thanks very much, a very informative video, I've just picked up this saw and following your video has made me happy with my choice. The tips and tricks you've discovered will help me I'm sure.
Andreas Kalt+ When I need the fence to be ninety degrees I push at the front towards the saw. This locks it right. If you drop a nut down into the saw, use a telescopic magnet. I bought mine 2012 and used it a lot. I also bought a new blade Freud LM74R010 10" 30T TCG Glu Line Ripping 16mm Arbor Kerf 3,18 PermaShield Coating
Kannst du was zur Ebenheit der Tische sagen? Bei meiner 10XC befinden sich vorne und hinten links am Griffstück Täler von >0.3mm. Bei den vom Schiebetisch verdeckten Stellen sind die Dellen noch tiefer (>0.5-0.6mm), sie sind deutlich fühlbar. Weiter rechts vom Blatt befindet sich eine zentrale Stelle, die nicht so tief ist. Im Prinzip auf den Seiten eines gezogenen Dreiecks von den Ecken ganz links bis auf einen Punkt rechts neben dem Sägeblatt. Ich denke das ist auf das Gewicht des Sägeaggregats zurückzuführen, weil dieses an der Tischplatte festgeschraubt ist? Ist das bei dir auch so? Messen könntest du mit der Parallelanschlagsverbreiterung (die man für feine Plattenschnitte und allgemeine Längsschnitte in Vollholz verwendet um vor Rückschlägen zu schützen) und entweder Papier (0.09mm Dicke) oder eben einer Fühlerlehre. Danke! PS: Nochmals bezüglich der Probleme mit der Ausrichtung des Parallelanschlages: Bei mir ist das nach Augenmaß auf Spiel des Klötzchens zurückzuführen (Taschenlampe runterhalten und sich den senkrechten Teil des Klötzchens angucken, der mit dem Profil (nicht) Berührung hat). Der Kanal Nachdenksport hat angekündigt das eventuell zu untersuchen, weil es da schon Anfragen von mehreren Leuten gegeben hat.
we use them at the carpenterschool. The blade has quite a bit of flex....which is nasty for 45 degree sawing. Maybe a thick kerf blade would help. Otherwise its an amazing saw.
i get the same problem, brand new table saw. The solution was to take out the blade and sand on a flat surface the nut and washers until you get pretty even sanding marks on all the surface that connect each part. Also make sure it is perfectly clean when you put it back again. Dont forget to clean the axis with some wet wipes too. In my case it solved the problem completely.
Very précise and pragmatic description of this saw I ve got it a i faced the same problems except the parallel guide witch is quite precise The blade has Also tout be changed to obtain good results
What would be your recommendation in selecting saw blade TPI for hard wood and soft wood? Also, any advise for RPM of the motor? (in case of two options 2500 rpm and 5000 rpm)? Otherwise great checks and setting ideas. Thank you.
Hallo Andreas, sehr schöne Vorführung. Ich habe auch die GTS und werde sie nächste Woche einrichten. Verwendest du das Original Sägeblatt welches mitgeliefert wurde?
Hallo Jürgen, ich verwende schon lange drei Sägeblätter von Freud, die es im 3er-Pack gibt: Eines für Längs- eines für Querschnitte und ein Kombiblatt, das ich die meiste Zeit drauf habe.
Nice review. I had that saw before, but sold it as the same reason had as the more negative sides. I am looking at the Dewalt DW745 instead. Much more precise fence, and more compact saw. Easy to carry as well.
Have you tried putting flat washers under the riding knife clamp screws? This will reduce the friction when tightening so the block should not twist as much.
Regarding the problem with riving knife. Have you thought to sharpen inner circle on both sides of the knife where the dust stucks? Probably with the sharper and angled plate dust will be pushing out by the screw.
What about the dust collection hose for the top unit? much cheaper saws include it, in a 1k$ saw I didn't expect Bosch to make me buy another accessories for connecting the bottom dust extraction with the upper dust extraction
I 100% agree! Expeciaally the riving knife. It is real nightmare, completly unadjustable. I havent manage to adjust it with the original narrow blade to the present day. It is allways clogging the piece when it comes. I think I am gonna remouve it completely.
Hi Andreas, thanks for your review one year on, I enjoyed it and have found similar areas for improvement. Can you tell me if you have tried using the saw with a dado? I’m interested in using a dado set for obvious reasons but would like to have the opinion of another similar saw user.
Hallo Andreas! Hebe den Hebel für die Abdeckung bei min 9:00 ein bisschen nach rechts und dann verdrehen, dann kannst du die Position verstellen. Warum sagt niemand bei den tollen Reviws, dass der kurze Parallelanschlag unbedingt beim Ablängen mit dem Queranschlag verwendet werden muss ( max. bis zum Eintauchpunkt des Sägeblattes) um Rückschläge zu vermeiden!
Also the switch basically begs to be a mini project -> If you don't like something, modify it. That's one of my favourite mantras of the maker community. Once you learn to make shit, everything can be made how you like it and doesn't have to stay like it is just because some multinational could save a fraction of a cent in material cost... Maybe you could punch out the metal pin of the old safety lever and replace it with something made of scraps of plywood? Put a thicker block on the bottom so you can hit it with your knee and make the overall shape more like a U so you can still push the on button when the flap is in its down position.
Thanks Pawel - I’ve since learnt that the DeWalt has a very good fence system; I wasn’t aware of it back then when I bought my saw. But thanks for the tip.
Als Anfänger würde ich sie wieder kaufen, allerdings gibt es inzwischen von DeWalt eine sehr interessante Alternative mit deutlich besserem Anschlag: th-cam.com/video/-LLZgS5hYPg/w-d-xo.html Aber: Wenn ich am Anfang schon gewusst hätte, dass ich tatsächlich beim Woodworking dran bleibe und das so ein intensives Hobby wird, würde ich mir gleich eine kleine Formatkreissäge leisten.
Today I’d probably invest more and go for a cabinet saw. But back then I didn’t know that woodworking would really stay my main hobby for many years to come.
@@holzhandwerk_ak I'm a pro carpenter and joiner and had a shop with a Wadkin 10" AGS tablesaw - the Rolls Royce IMHO. Had no alternative but to sell it but have just bought a 10" Dewalt portable - the best they do. Building a new workshop next year where this will be tuned into a "Cabinet Quality" saw where it will remain. I chose the Dewalt specifically because they have incredible potential for serious workshop accuracy. When I'm done with it, I reckon it may even better the Wadkin (in some areas)!
hi Andreas, great review, very helpful....I have a short question as I'm thinking to purchase it too, just to make some garden furniture for us...do you find the precision good enough for 'home-made' products? thank you and take care
I have used it all this time. One thing to double check after adjusting is the fence. If you do that and learn if and how your fence might have a little play, it should be fine. I found that most inaccuracies in my projects don’t come from the table saw but from its operator 😉
Hi Andreas, firstly thank you for sharing your experience with the table saw Bosch 10 xc. Can you explain please why did you choose this saw and not for example Dewalt 745? Can you please share as well the video or planes of the stand for the saw. I can not find it in your video play list. Thanks a best regards from Czech Republic.👍
Hi - back when I bought the saw, I didn’t have the DeWalt on my radar. Today, its successor the DeWalt DWE7492 seems to be worth a look. For the stand, there’s an old video of mine but no plans: th-cam.com/video/xlFY6Sc1XuI/w-d-xo.html
Well, comparing this new DeWalt and your experiences with your Bosch, what do you thing is more practical? Looking to this DeWalt saw there are some interesting features as well.
I don’t have any detailed knowledge of the DeWalt since I’m not in the market to buy a new saw. But the fence especially is supposed to be better which is a big aspect. And it seems it is less messy with sawdust.
Thanks for the great video. The saw is very well shown and demonstrated. It wasn't sold here is the US to my knowledge, but interesting to see the engineering and product choices and design. I would like it more if it were designed for more precision. I don't know of any sliding table saws that are intended so, maybe as for model making or something! Interesting, nevertheless.
Hi Andreas, brilliant vid, very informative and useful for me as I bought the GTS 10 XC three months ago. It's still in the box as I am still in the process of putting my shop together. When changing the blade, would it not help to put a rag into the hole to stop the nut falling down into the housing? I'll try this when I eventually get mine out of the box as I've already bought a better Bosch blade. Übrigens, sind Sie Deutsche? Ich wohne in Deutschland und u.a. unterrichte meine eigene Sprache seit 20 Jahren. Ihre Englisch ist außerordentliche gut, so gut dass mann Ihre mögliche Wurzel fast nicht erkennen kann. RESPEKT! Hab Ihre Channel abonniert, eigentlich schon länger, hab aber kaum Zeit gehabt alles anzuschauen. Freu mich Sie wieder entdeckt zu haben. Weiter so :-)
+Robert Williamson Vielen Dank! Freut mich, dass das Video nützlich war. Inzwischen habe ich einen Tipp aus einem der Kommentare beherzigt und stelle zum Sägeblattwechsel die Sage auf 45 Grad. Dann kommt man gut an die Mutter ran. Thanks for the remarks about m English. I'm an English teacher so one would hope that my English is at least reasonably good ;-)
@@holzhandwerk_ak Ah, English teacher! That explains a lot. Including that wild quilt of alternating US, Londonish, and even northern English inflections that I couldn't quite make sense of. And the preternatural precision. 🙂
I wanna buy this saw for ripping large sheets of plywood. The fence runs on 2 rails front/back witch are atached to 2 metal suports/blades screwed to the base. Can i move thoes blades to the right so i can cut larger sheets than 600mm? I want to created an extension table . Thx
In this video, the guy attached extra long aluminum profiles to do just that: th-cam.com/video/P6hhM8Iynns/w-d-xo.html In his description, he names this website where he got the parts: www.wzservice.de front profile: parts NR : 2610018275 back profile: parts NR : 2610018279 Good luck!
hey Andreas, sehr gutes Review über diese säge! Da bleiben keine Fragen mehr offen. Danke fürs teilen!
Gruss frank
Danke für Dein Feedback, Frank!
genau das! Sehr guter review. Danke sehr!
To get the knife aligned quicker, put a washer on each screw. What moves the bracket is the friction between the screw and the bracket, and a washer will definitely help with that!
@8:43 for the fence that close to the blade you may want to use the narrow cut attachment to alleviate the issue with the tightening screw. Thanks otherwise for a good detailed and useful review! And by the way, if that is of interest for anyone, this saw is made in Taiwan (where Bosch makes some of its higher quality power tools, after Germany of course).
Thanks for the tip. And thanks for the info about Taiwan.
Hello Andreas, changing the blade is easier when you swing the cutting angle to 45° - you will have better access to the screw.
Thanks for the tip - that’s a great idea!
Joerg bastelt thanks for sharing!
Just a thought - a telescopic pick up tool with a magnet on the end, would be handy to retrieve escaped nut. :-)
Thanks for the tip.
I've also bought one of these saws. Generally I'm very pleased with it.
However, I must mention the mitre slots. There are two significant problems with them:
1. They are of non-standard width (narrower) so many tools which come with a slider will not fit.
2. They are not of equal depth so the sliders one makes have to be of different heights or, as I've done with my cross cut sled, routed out a slot to sink one of the sliders into.
OMG, this is the best honest review I ever saw. Thank you!
Thanks I’m glad you find it useful.
thank you so much for this complete review after 1 year of use, much better than unboxing / fist tests and so on....
+dedeyiccj Thanks for your feedback. I’m glad you found it useful.
For the riving knife I'd recommend trying to put some split washers between the Allen screws and the cast part of the knife. Might not eliminate the shifting upon tightening completely, but will surely alleviate it.
And for dropped screws there is always magnets! Fancy telescopic ones or just simply one tied to a string :)
Thanks for the tips. I'll try that!
Also try putting a small magnet in the finger a thin rubber glove and many times you can locate the parts using your finger tip
Wow. And I thought the issues were just me or my GTS10xc. You've exactly the same issues as I have. Bosch should really fix these issues and provide us improvements.
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice th-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Thanks for the video, Andreas! I bought this saw in January 2020 after many reviews and comparison videos watched. It has been almost 2 years now and I have to say I also had to adapt my work and techniques to accommodate for many flaws, but there are some that you showed and some you didn't that I still consider as flaws that should not exist in such a costly product. The parallel fence - I simply cannot get it parallel to blade from nor the directions! I simply loosened the back screw a little to not grip that hard, I then set up the fence, lock it and use a ruler to check distance at the front of the blade and at the back (using same saw tooth). By tapping slightly on the back of the fence I can then bring it to distance to be 99+% parallel. It is far from optimal and sometimes takes me few minutes of checking and tapping till I consider it parallel enough. Another problem is setting an angle. I had to adjust the stops (at 90 and 45 degrees) and I have to always check and re-adjust from time to time. I bought a digital angle finder and use that to set my angles which is far more reliable. My built-in sled has a lot of play (about 2-3mm at the back) which I consider a lot. The play can be adjusted by removing it, loosening the screws holding the rails it slides in, making these parallel and then putting the sled back. I saw this in another video but haven't done it myself, as I also built a separate sled myself. I also found that when I use this one from time to time together with the miter gauge that was part of the saw, I simply have to push all the way do the right at the very front of sled and then push forward (i.e. pushing it forward at an angle). And there is another issue I am not able to find a source for - when ripping the wood, mostly hardwood, the blade vibrates leaving uneven cut with some deep marks. This makes it impossible to use the saw for jointing boards for later gluing them together. I do not own a jointer and didn't have much luck so far jointing the boards using a hand plane. And then the dust! It is everywhere! All these issues you have described and I added make me quite dissatisfied with the product I bought for 700 Eur. Unfortunately, there is no alternative, even in the higher cost segment. However, I am considering to buy a new Dewalt 7492 which seem to have issues with the dust and parallel fence solved! These two things keep me motivated to do the switch. Anyway - how is your experience nowadays (almost 5 years after buying the saw)? Do you still have it? Do you still use it?
I've seen reviews of the dewalt showing that the table platform doesn't come flat and that almost always it dips and there is a low spot around the blade.
I bought one, after watch you (not machine) in this video. I have watched a lot of review. But I had get a decision after this. Seriously Thanks a lot.
Thanks Ahmet. I’m glad to hear that you found my review useful!
Because you havent seen the sawstop 10" jobsite saw
Sawstop doesn’t sell outside the US, at least not in Europe. Unfortunately.
6 Videos geschaut. Immer noch nicht alle Fragen beantwortet. Hätte ich nur deins als erstes geschaut. Kurz, knapp, informativ. Super!
Danke Thorsten, das freut mich zu hören!
Extremely well detailed review. Very useful for me because i'm still not sure to go for a contractor saw or a bigger/heavier cabinet saw. Thank you for sharing your experience.
You’re very welcome! Glad it’s useful to you.
I have the same saw. to align the riving nife i have 2 tricks. If you position the fence against the saw blade this can be your square. You can push the riving nife to the fence then. besides the 2 screws to fix the riving nife there is a 3 small screw that you can turn in or outwards. this is a screw that keeps the riving nife streight you have to adjust this once. your fence can help with that. i fully agree with you on the other points. al in all I thing it is a pretty good saw. I have it since 3 years and build an out feed table arround it. thanks for sharing your thoughts on this saw.
Thanks for your feedback, I’ll try your approach!
Please see my comment above. no need to ever remove the riving knife mount...only the knife = no alignment.
Thanks for that information. The most important thing about a table saw is a perfect and accurate fence. If the fence does not work well, then the saw is only good for cutting firewood. So when I saw how bad the fence was on this saw (5:35) I realized that this saw is not for me. It's a shame, because I really liked that you could store all the accessories under the saw and it seemed otherwise okay.
I have since learned to use the fence properly - I just have to push it to the left very slightly before clamping it down. That way, I get accurate results.
I have Bosch saw with the mobile base from 12 years and I still like it.Good stuff and good video.
Thanks very much.
One of the best reviews I’ve seen. Nice job. Thank you.
Thanks. Glad to hear it.
Wirklich genial. Das ist der beste Test für die Säge & dein Englisch ist genial. Das hilft mir sehr mein English zu verbessern! Herzlichen Dank
Danke für Dein nettes Feedback. Das freut mich sehr.
Very helpful video from a man who knows well the object. Also a honest review.
Glad you like it!
Thanks very much for taking the time to put this together.
Thanks. you’re welcome.
Good review - I have the same saw for over a year too and have found similar draw backs with the sliding table play. As for the hood that fits to the riving knife, you can very easily just hoist up the knife. It has uses 2 spring loaded bearings (at 9m44s) for a position lock for a top and bottom position. I'll make a video reply to illustrate this as well as some of the upgrades (modifications). Yes, Dust is an issue with the knife as well as collection. I made changes to my stand to deal with this but you are 100% correct - best review I've seen on the saw . Mein deutch ist nicht gut, so it'll be in English! Greetings from South Africa
Thanks Gareth. I’m looking forward to your video!
Many thanks for the detailed review and pointing the pros and cons. Very patient and professional indeed.
Thank you. Glad I could help.
About that blade change issue: perhaps try a rotating wrench with stronger magnet attached to it (to prevent the nut from dropping). No idea if it works, but it just came to my mind. This video is right on point!
I just purchased the same model recently. Great to watch your review, I will test my fence, probably it will need an update to make it align in parallel.
Enjoy your saw.
Yes replacing the blade is a pain and even more of a pain when you bore size of the blade is bigger and you have to use the insert (shim) ring and you end up dropping that too.
I think we all agree with you as we all have the same problem. The plastic hood is different to the one I have, it is made up of two pieces with metal arms that moves up as you push the work piece towards the blade, also seen another version of this hood. It seems like different countries got different hoods.
thx a lot, your english is very clear and easy to understand for non-native english viewer. The rythm of the video is very good too: you speak not to slow (so we could get borred) not to fast (so we could not understand or remember important things). Great review. Anyway, did you notice the left sliding table precision can be adjusted? some people say the precision could be adjusted to around 0,2mm, that seams to me very acceptable.
Thank you Benjamin.
I have just bought one and the fence was a bit juddery, but I have used a machine wax on the channels and it slides sweetly and accurately. I also waxed all the channels and runners. Now everything slides easily and quietly. Also when changing the blade stand the saw on its left end and undo the two screws, drop down the bottom and everthing is easily accessible.
Thanks for your tips!
To remedy play on the fence just snug the handle a little bit and it will eliminate. The same is with my Metabo bandsaw, if I loosen the handle completely I have side to side play, but once half engaged it snugs up just enough but without actually locking it
Thanks for this tip, I’ll try that.
Your video review is the best and most thorough for any saw I have seen. AUSGEZEICHNET!
Get a rubber door stop (or some other lump of soft plastic) and silastic it to the off switch lever or put a screw through from the other side into it as well if that is possible. I'll have a look at mine when I get it in a few days. I will probably silastic something on it as I can then remove it if I have a warranty problem. With a 3 yr warranty I don't want a claim knocked back because they recon I modified the unit and voided the warranty.
Thanks for the idea! I'll look into that.
data357 thanks good information
Another issue with the cross cut slide that you may not have noticed is that is is slightly raised to the table height meaning anything that rides on it will be just slightly out of square. I really want to correct this by removing the slides and replacing with thinner bars (it will then not move). This will allow me to build a cross cut sled and I only have the fact that the channel that side is very shallow as an issue (and that they are cast rather than machined) which is something I cannot fix.
I think with your issue with the riving knife, if you add washers under the bolt heads that should fix it moving. I will try this tomorrow when I put mine back on.
I don't think the fence is any worse than other similar saws, they are all a bit wobbly.
Thanks for your feedback on this.
That's a very good review and a major help for me in order to choose my next table saw. A big thank you from Australia.
You’re welcome - I’m glad to hear it.
I have this saw and completely agree with your overview. I have it on the mobile stand as I use it in different locations and I like the stand. One extra problem is that sawdust accumulates in the bottom of the case and although there is a grill to let it fall out much of it stays in and it becomes a problem when wheeling it through clean areas. I cut a hole in the grill so I have better access for sucking out the dust. Thanks for your review keep them coming 😀
Thanks for watching and for your feedback!
Great review, I am thinking of getting the next step down from this saw the GTS 615-216. This gave me a lot of pointers and stuff to think about.
Thanks for your feedback - glad I could help.
Hi Andreas, great review. I have this saw and I agree with all you say. Two more downsides though. When the fence sit in its place to the left I have had a situation a couple of times there T-part gets stuck between the saw body and the off switch lever, meaning I can't actually switch off the saw. Quite a safety issue I wouldn't have expected from bosch. Another thing is that the miter slots are not same width, very strange!
Overall I like the saw. I built a big panel size cross cut sled that rests on the extension. Instead of having to cut a very accurate runner for the right miter slot. I cut a 30 cm wide piece of 10 mm particle board that runs between the table and the extension. I can easily adjust to tight fit by pushing the extension gently inwards towards the runner, and lock.
Thanks for your feedback, Jesper. I agree with point one: I rarely use the saw with the parallel fence stored away but it IS hard to use the switch in that position.
Good idea with the cross-cut sled. Thanks for sharing!
I bought the PTS 10. I have the same porblem with the parallel fence. It will not adjust correct when tightening. I use this solution. Before tightening the fence, pull the fence toward the front and the fence will correct itself. Hope this helps.
Thanks for this tip, Johan. I’ll try it.
when i change the blade on my GTS 10XC and i drop the nut or the washer i use the magnet from any tape ruler i have nearby to pick it up. You don't really need that magnet on the tip of your tape rulers for measuring in woodworking but i like to have all my rulers in my workshop from the same manufacturer and now i have magnet tip tape rulers from Yato. And you never know hiw good those magnets are until you drope some metal thing in a hard to reach corner.
+denoro that's a great tip, thanks.
I hoped that i could use this saw but You convinced me i could not. Thanks great review.
You’re welcome!
Hey Andreas, in minute 8.45 you mention the problem with the locking knob. I bought a BOSCH PTS10 (green) a few weeks ago, which is very similar to yours. The guide mentions that the reduction should be used for that type of narrow cut (your video minute 2.15). In this way, I do not think you'll hit the knob. Maybe a solution? By the way, thanks for sharing your knowledge. I am a beginner and search the net for such welcome info.
Thanks for this suggestion. That might be a solution - even though it’s a bit of a hassle to mount that reduction all the time. But I’ll keep it in mind. Thank you!
Perhaps I also start with a video channel. What camera and software do you use to realize your videos?
I started making videos using my iPhone (for about a year) and Screenflow as the software. Now, I use a Panasonic Lumix FZ 300 and Premiere Elements.
What a good quality! I'm going to find out how to edit these videos. Thanks for the info.
+3DHERO You're welcome.
Thank you sir,my daughter bought me this bosch GTS 10xc.for my small woodshop.thanks for the review.
You’re welcome. Enjoy your saw!
Great video! I have the same saw with the same issues. Now I know much more. Thanks!
+Yinon Sofer I am glad that it is useful to you!
I have a zero clearens plate, I think ill make it my main plate, and insted of the riving kine ill attach those small table saw splitters.
I had a few projects in the past which really frustrated me for not being able to make a true 90 degree angel. when I removed the riving knife it all got much better. Im also considering getting back to a portable saw for long crosscuts. with a proper T type of fance there will be no misalignments, allothough it will take longer and will be less comfortable to work. but accuracy is the thing I alwase seek for. even the smallest diffrence in angels can drive me crazy haha
Great video.
Actually Makita MLT100x is very bad saw for active use, but makita 2704 which I have already 3 years aprox. is very good saw and presise too. It cost me about 600€.
I will never spend 900€ for a saw like Bosch GTS 10 XC.
Thanks. I've added the 2704 to my list, but currently it’s about 800 EUR on amazon so not much money saved. Anyway, thanks for the tip!
The riving knife adjustment really drives me nuts too. I bought thin a cross cut blade at the same time as the saw, since it seems much more appropriate for the type of work I do than a ripping blade. It took me far too long to get it right.
I also found the way you tilt the blade a bit disappointing. I find it very hard to adjust to a precise angle. I would have preferred some kind of a wheel, but it seems to be a common system for the saws in that price range.
For the crosscut sliding carriage, it seems possible to adjust it but I yet have to do it.
+[CPC] Vlad Tepes Thanks for your feedback.
I was wondering...
I doesn't have such a great machine, so I can't try it, but wouldn't it be easier if you just clamp the blade and the riving knife together with a peice of wood, so it'll be in perfectly a fixed position while you tighten the screws? :)
That doesn’t work because the riving knife moves a little when you loosen the clamps.
Ausrichten des Spaltkeils geht ganz einfach. Mit der Einhandzwinge am Sägeblatt arrettieren. Schrauben festziehen fertig. Perfekt gefluchtet. Tolles Video btw.
Danke. Leider ist der Spaltkeil bei mir nicht ganz plan, so dass er sich nach dem Lösen der Zwinge wieder etwas bewegt.
I think my comments arrive a little late: I saw the date of your video now.
I hope they can be useful anyway
First time in your channel!
Congratulations on your review, really honest.
As already mentioned by 3DHERO I also think that using the additional guide can bypass the problem of the lever tighten protection, but surely if the bolt was turned 180 ° the problem would not be presented.
Regarding the emergency lever, I think that if you add a thickness at the point of contact between the red lever and the "OFF" button you should be able to recover the problem that, as you say, as it leaves the factory, it is not very practical.
About disassembling the blade you could try to build a small accessory: folded like this: J "(take the letter J and the quotes as a drawing and imagine the axis of the blade on the left side of the drawing) the curved part of J is of sufficient diameter to contain nut and washer and at the end of the short side of the J stick a small magnet with a smaller diameter than the blade axis, which you will place on the axis head after loosening the nut, so you will be sure not to drop them.
for this "magnetic wonder J" you could use one of those metal plates that hold the rubber trowel in an old windshield wiper.
It is hard enough to hang from the magnet
Thanks for your feedback! Much appreciated.
Thank you for a great review. Here's an idea for you: Try putting a little magnet on a stick to fish up any dropped bolts from the inside of the machine instead of turning it over.
Thanks for the tip! Will try that.
Thank you for taking the effort to do this in English
You’re welcome!
I have the TS-4000. Nice to see they fixed the miter slots, and even changed them to T-slots. On blade changes, I recommend a flexible magnetic pickup tool. ;) I work on lower profile sports cars at times. I'm used to fetching. lol. I remember a Bosch sales rep, who was present when I bought my saw. He demonstrated one person can rip a 4 x 8 foot sheet of plywood. (with outfeed, and side feed supports installed.) I like my power switch better, It's a lift, and slap, that looks like the external of your switch. The need feature about it, was upon sawing and pushing through a full sheet, you can use your knee to bump the saw switch OFF. Thank you for the video! Nice job.
Thanks for your feedback!
¡Gracias por la revisión Andreas!
quiere suceder
Andreas, really detailed and objective review, Thanks.
Thank you - glad you like it.
Thanks Andreas. A very helpful review! Greetings from the UK. 👍
Thanks. I’m glad to hear it!
I use a magnetic telecopic pick when I drop a nut or bolt... Thanks for the feed back.
Thanks for the tip.
Great video. I'm out shopping for one for the first time. It seems that on this category every brand and model has its flaws on its fences and miter gauges and whatnot, so they'll require extra time to fix and upgrade.
Yes, that’s what I’ve concluded over the years as well.
Great review. Thank you. I have the same saw. For the knife issue. Together with washers, would 2 magnetic flat bars not be able to keep the blade and knife aligned?
Well presented and detailed. Thank you.
Helpful video thanks.
Idea for the riving knife, move the fence up to the blade and then clamp the riving knife to the fence before doing up the screws. Should get you pretty much bang on without having to mess around too much.
Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for the review. Greetings from the Philippines!
You’re welcome!
The shut off is set back a bit to avoid hitting it accidently with your lag while making a cut. The Dewalt for instance has a switch cover which stands out further and its a common occurrence to tap it off while cutting in close causing the saw to shut down while cutting. No good. Great review. Very good indeed.
Thanks for your kind words and the feedback.
An excellent video review Andreas. Very helpful, thanks!
Charlie
+chazzer56 Thank you! Glad it was useful.
i'd heard about the bad fence on this saw, something so fundamental to accurate cuts , its ridiculous that bosch couldnt get it right, and the screw on the blade hood should never have got past quality control. im glad i opted for the dewalt saw with rack and pinion fence, even though it has a smaller rip capacity.
Thanks very much, a very informative video, I've just picked up this saw and following your video has made me happy with my choice. The tips and tricks you've discovered will help me I'm sure.
That’s great to hear, Steven - enjoy your saw and the woodworking you do with it.
Thank you for this wonderful explanation
Thanks for the nice feedback
Andreas Kalt+ When I need the fence to be ninety degrees I push at the front towards the saw. This locks it right. If you drop a nut down into the saw, use a telescopic magnet. I bought mine 2012 and used it a lot. I also bought a new blade Freud LM74R010 10" 30T TCG Glu Line Ripping 16mm Arbor Kerf 3,18 PermaShield Coating
+Lars Niklasson Hede thanks for the tips, Lars.
Great all-round review - thanks!
Thanks Ian!
Thank you so much sir. Excellent review . Very very useful
Thanks. I’m glad to hear it.
Kannst du was zur Ebenheit der Tische sagen? Bei meiner 10XC befinden sich vorne und hinten links am Griffstück Täler von >0.3mm. Bei den vom Schiebetisch verdeckten Stellen sind die Dellen noch tiefer (>0.5-0.6mm), sie sind deutlich fühlbar. Weiter rechts vom Blatt befindet sich eine zentrale Stelle, die nicht so tief ist. Im Prinzip auf den Seiten eines gezogenen Dreiecks von den Ecken ganz links bis auf einen Punkt rechts neben dem Sägeblatt. Ich denke das ist auf das Gewicht des Sägeaggregats zurückzuführen, weil dieses an der Tischplatte festgeschraubt ist? Ist das bei dir auch so? Messen könntest du mit der Parallelanschlagsverbreiterung (die man für feine Plattenschnitte und allgemeine Längsschnitte in Vollholz verwendet um vor Rückschlägen zu schützen) und entweder Papier (0.09mm Dicke) oder eben einer Fühlerlehre. Danke!
PS: Nochmals bezüglich der Probleme mit der Ausrichtung des Parallelanschlages: Bei mir ist das nach Augenmaß auf Spiel des Klötzchens zurückzuführen (Taschenlampe runterhalten und sich den senkrechten Teil des Klötzchens angucken, der mit dem Profil (nicht) Berührung hat). Der Kanal Nachdenksport hat angekündigt das eventuell zu untersuchen, weil es da schon Anfragen von mehreren Leuten gegeben hat.
Great and mega helpful video. Thanks so much for your time and effort because I'm looking to buy a saw to have my own hobby shop.
Glad you find it useful. Thanks for your feedback.good luck and enjoyment with your new shop! It’s a wonderful hobby.
we use them at the carpenterschool. The blade has quite a bit of flex....which is nasty for 45 degree sawing. Maybe a thick kerf blade would help. Otherwise its an amazing saw.
i get the same problem, brand new table saw. The solution was to take out the blade and sand on a flat surface the nut and washers until you get pretty even sanding marks on all the surface that connect each part. Also make sure it is perfectly clean when you put it back again. Dont forget to clean the axis with some wet wipes too. In my case it solved the problem completely.
Thanks for the tip!
Very précise and pragmatic description of this saw
I ve got it a i faced the same problems except the parallel guide witch is quite precise
The blade has Also tout be changed to obtain good results
Thanks for your feedback.
You can use a magnet tied to a stick to retrieve nuts or screws that fall into tight spaces.
Thanks for the tip.
What would be your recommendation in selecting saw blade TPI for hard wood and soft wood? Also, any advise for RPM of the motor? (in case of two options 2500 rpm and 5000 rpm)? Otherwise great checks and setting ideas. Thank you.
Hey Andreas, Thank you for the great video. What kind of power connection has the saw? Is a normal german 230V supply enough?
Yes, it has 230 V.
Hallo Andreas, sehr schöne Vorführung. Ich habe auch die GTS und werde sie nächste Woche einrichten. Verwendest du das Original Sägeblatt welches mitgeliefert wurde?
Hallo Jürgen, ich verwende schon lange drei Sägeblätter von Freud, die es im 3er-Pack gibt: Eines für Längs- eines für Querschnitte und ein Kombiblatt, das ich die meiste Zeit drauf habe.
Prima Video - schnelle und umfassende Information - danke.
+Reinhardius Colonius Gerne. Freut mich!
Nice review.
I had that saw before, but sold it as the same reason had as the more negative sides. I am looking at the Dewalt DW745 instead. Much more precise fence, and more compact saw. Easy to carry as well.
Thanks for your feedback!
Have you tried putting flat washers under the riding knife clamp screws? This will reduce the friction when tightening so the block should not twist as much.
Thanks for the tip. I could try that.
I agree with you Andreas that's the perfect saw for your small shop. great review Thanks for Sharing.
+Opa's Workshop Thanks for watching Opa!
Hello Andreas
Many thanks for a great video. I have recently purchased the machine and find it suits my needs just fine.
Mike Paterson
You’re welcome. Glad to hear it.
Regarding the problem with riving knife.
Have you thought to sharpen inner circle on both sides of the knife where the dust stucks?
Probably with the sharper and angled plate dust will be pushing out by the screw.
That’s an interesting idea. Next time I have to take it out I'll have a closer look at it!
What about the dust collection hose for the top unit? much cheaper saws include it, in a 1k$ saw I didn't expect Bosch to make me buy another accessories for connecting the bottom dust extraction with the upper dust extraction
Good explanation of GTS 10, thank you !
Thanks for watching!
Very good review (i was looking for) thanks !
You're welcome.
I 100% agree! Expeciaally the riving knife. It is real nightmare, completly unadjustable. I havent manage to adjust it with the original narrow blade to the present day. It is allways clogging the piece when it comes. I think I am gonna remouve it completely.
Thanks for your feedback.
Hi Andreas, thanks for your review one year on, I enjoyed it and have found similar areas for improvement. Can you tell me if you have tried using the saw with a dado? I’m interested in using a dado set for obvious reasons but would like to have the opinion of another similar saw user.
In Germany, dado stacks are not available.
I used to have this saw in my amazon cart, good bye now! thanks for the video.
You’re welcome … it has its flaws but it can be used productively with a few limitations.
Hej Andreas, If you don`t want to drop the knot when you change the blade, put the blade on 45 degrees.
Thanks for this tip. I’ve been doing that with good success for quite some time. Works well.
you know you can adjust the rails on the push table to have 0 play right?
@9:33 I just received my table saw and this protective hood is totally different. Bosch must have changed te setup in te mean time.
Yes. They have.
Great review! Do you still have this table saw? Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. Yes I still use it.
Hallo Andreas!
Hebe den Hebel für die Abdeckung bei min 9:00 ein bisschen nach rechts und dann verdrehen, dann kannst du die Position verstellen.
Warum sagt niemand bei den tollen Reviws, dass der kurze Parallelanschlag unbedingt beim Ablängen mit dem Queranschlag verwendet werden muss ( max. bis zum Eintauchpunkt des Sägeblattes) um Rückschläge zu vermeiden!
Also the switch basically begs to be a mini project -> If you don't like something, modify it. That's one of my favourite mantras of the maker community. Once you learn to make shit, everything can be made how you like it and doesn't have to stay like it is just because some multinational could save a fraction of a cent in material cost...
Maybe you could punch out the metal pin of the old safety lever and replace it with something made of scraps of plywood? Put a thicker block on the bottom so you can hit it with your knee and make the overall shape more like a U so you can still push the on button when the flap is in its down position.
+Jan Hagedorn You're right. I'll think about it.
Get Dewalt table saw. Very accurate and precise cuts. With a little adjustments you could do a cabinet grade saw.
Thanks Pawel - I’ve since learnt that the DeWalt has a very good fence system; I wasn’t aware of it back then when I bought my saw. But thanks for the tip.
Hey Andreas Danke fuhrs Review, Grusse aus Sud africa, nach 3 Jaren hast du den noch und wie siehst jetzt aus wurdest du es wieder kaufen ?
Als Anfänger würde ich sie wieder kaufen, allerdings gibt es inzwischen von DeWalt eine sehr interessante Alternative mit deutlich besserem Anschlag: th-cam.com/video/-LLZgS5hYPg/w-d-xo.html
Aber: Wenn ich am Anfang schon gewusst hätte, dass ich tatsächlich beim Woodworking dran bleibe und das so ein intensives Hobby wird, würde ich mir gleich eine kleine Formatkreissäge leisten.
Thank you for sharing! Would it still be your number 1 choice???
Today I’d probably invest more and go for a cabinet saw. But back then I didn’t know that woodworking would really stay my main hobby for many years to come.
@@holzhandwerk_ak I'm a pro carpenter and joiner and had a shop with a Wadkin 10" AGS tablesaw - the Rolls Royce IMHO. Had no alternative but to sell it but have just bought a 10" Dewalt portable - the best they do. Building a new workshop next year where this will be tuned into a "Cabinet Quality" saw where it will remain. I chose the Dewalt specifically because they have incredible potential for serious workshop accuracy. When I'm done with it, I reckon it may even better the Wadkin (in some areas)!
hi Andreas, great review, very helpful....I have a short question as I'm thinking to purchase it too, just to make some garden furniture for us...do you find the precision good enough for 'home-made' products? thank you and take care
I have used it all this time. One thing to double check after adjusting is the fence. If you do that and learn if and how your fence might have a little play, it should be fine. I found that most inaccuracies in my projects don’t come from the table saw but from its operator 😉
@@holzhandwerk_ak :D:D:D I'm sure the operator has been fixed since then :D...thanks again, placing my order ;)
Hi Andreas, firstly thank you for sharing your experience with the table saw Bosch 10 xc. Can you explain please why did you choose this saw and not for example Dewalt 745?
Can you please share as well the video or planes of the stand for the saw. I can not find it in your video play list. Thanks a best regards from Czech Republic.👍
I believe the 745 is discontinued
Hi - back when I bought the saw, I didn’t have the DeWalt on my radar. Today, its successor the DeWalt DWE7492 seems to be worth a look.
For the stand, there’s an old video of mine but no plans: th-cam.com/video/xlFY6Sc1XuI/w-d-xo.html
Well, comparing this new DeWalt and your experiences with your Bosch, what do you thing is more practical? Looking to this DeWalt saw there are some interesting features as well.
I don’t have any detailed knowledge of the DeWalt since I’m not in the market to buy a new saw. But the fence especially is supposed to be better which is a big aspect. And it seems it is less messy with sawdust.
Thanks for the great video. The saw is very well shown and demonstrated. It wasn't sold here is the US to my knowledge, but interesting to see the engineering and product choices and design. I would like it more if it were designed for more precision. I don't know of any sliding table saws that are intended so, maybe as for model making or something! Interesting, nevertheless.
Thanks for your feedback.
Nice video i was planing to buy one off these ...Guess i have to spend a bit more
Hi Andreas, brilliant vid, very informative and useful for me as I bought the GTS 10 XC three months ago. It's still in the box as I am still in the process of putting my shop together. When changing the blade, would it not help to put a rag into the hole to stop the nut falling down into the housing? I'll try this when I eventually get mine out of the box as I've already bought a better Bosch blade. Übrigens, sind Sie Deutsche? Ich wohne in Deutschland und u.a. unterrichte meine eigene Sprache seit 20 Jahren. Ihre Englisch ist außerordentliche gut, so gut dass mann Ihre mögliche Wurzel fast nicht erkennen kann. RESPEKT! Hab Ihre Channel abonniert, eigentlich schon länger, hab aber kaum Zeit gehabt alles anzuschauen. Freu mich Sie wieder entdeckt zu haben. Weiter so :-)
+Robert Williamson Vielen Dank! Freut mich, dass das Video nützlich war. Inzwischen habe ich einen Tipp aus einem der Kommentare beherzigt und stelle zum Sägeblattwechsel die Sage auf 45 Grad. Dann kommt man gut an die Mutter ran.
Thanks for the remarks about m English. I'm an English teacher so one would hope that my English is at least reasonably good ;-)
@@holzhandwerk_ak Ah, English teacher! That explains a lot. Including that wild quilt of alternating US, Londonish, and even northern English inflections that I couldn't quite make sense of. And the preternatural precision. 🙂
I wanna buy this saw for ripping large sheets of plywood. The fence runs on 2 rails front/back witch are atached to 2 metal suports/blades screwed to the base. Can i move thoes blades to the right so i can cut larger sheets than 600mm? I want to created an extension table . Thx
In this video, the guy attached extra long aluminum profiles to do just that: th-cam.com/video/P6hhM8Iynns/w-d-xo.html
In his description, he names this website where he got the parts: www.wzservice.de
front profile: parts NR : 2610018275
back profile: parts NR : 2610018279
Good luck!