Excellent project. I applaud your effort and the end result. If you find you have rigidity issues, you may wish to consider a larger diameter main spindle shaft and possibly tapered bearings to eliminate end play. Also, maybe I missed it, take the chuck off that backing plate and face the plate so you know its true to the shaft, then re-assemble the chuck to it.. Welding has a way of making things move a bit. Thumbs up from me.
just here to upvote facing the backplate, no reason why you shouldn't eliminate as much cause of error as you can, this will help you hold a better tolerance and make your parts run a bit more true. Facing the back plate and getting some tapered roller bearings the chuck would go a long way, this DIY late should make some great parts after some upgrades.
Nice to see a young man using practical skills i learnt in my first ever job and have never forgotten. despite it ending 20 years ago after 13 years in the trade.
Nice work. I was a little concerned about the precision of the measurements lining up the guide rods and such, but looks like it came out okay. One thing - get in the habit of *never* leaving the chuck key in the chuck unless your hand is on it, or one day, you *will* eat it when you forget and turn on the motor.
I am enjoying this!! Says someone with 6 lathes and 2 mills. BUT my first lathe was a school project which led to a Degree in 3 D Design. A life teaching 3 D Design... And now making model Steam Locomotives. Yes I still use the home made Lathe with slipping belt clutch. Lots of love David and Lily.
But why did you not have the heart to tell him what he did wrong? Did you maybe figure that he learned what he did wrong in the process? It's great that he accomplished this but I don't know for sure that he does know the important differences between this and one that wouldn't require hammering a bearing on as we saw. Looks like that bearing didn't turn so well either after he did that. What would you say ...+/- .002" repeatability & accuracy? I haven't made my own but I have rebuilt a little Smithy (Midas) 1220-xl except for the gearbox. Fortunately, the gearbox was sealed and hadn't been contaminated with sand rust like everything else. I'm just glad I went to school, watched 1000+ hours of videos and read up extensively, on the subjects I needed to know to make the thing chooch. The one thing I didn't realize though, was that the main reason my teachers were telling me not to get a mill/lathe combo was because they are horribly inefficient when you need to go from milling to turning or vice versa. The two just interfere with each other to much so If I gotta turn anything larger than 2.5" dia. the vice either has to come off or I have to position the vice far to one side so I have to take the work out of the vice & turn it around to mill the other side, just as one example. Maybe he could make some modification to get some preloading. ...?
You know the moment I have a home with a shed to work in, I'm coming back to this video among others. This beast is one item too big to move between the laundry alcove and the outside workbench daily.
Great work just as a point for the future, instead of using a solid roundbar for the head shaft use a 3mm or bigger walled pipe, this will allow you to turn longer projects that run through the pipe, but this would mean you will have to replace those head bearings as well for bigger units and resleaving the main pully. Good luck and I like this build.
The problem is finding such a tube. Show a URL where it can be purchased please along with the correct bearing to also fit. Otherwise it's not helpful at all. It's just criticism not helping
That's very nice considering what you had to work with. Chucks always have a precision shoulder on the back to align the mandrel with the chuck. You should face the backplate without the chuck and machine the male shoulder on it. The diameter have to be as precise as possible compared to the inner diameter in the back of the chuck so the alignment will be precise too. This should give a good alignment on the jaw of the chuck then you can get a nice reference round bar, put it on the chuck and align the carriages to the rotation axis by putting a micrometer on the carriage and moving it up and down and see/fix the error. But I understand that this was more of a proof of concept. Nice work.
Remarkable... May not be the absolute best small lathe a person can have in their workshop BUT it does what it has to and makes so many more projects withing reach without having to go to expensive machine shops to get a part made... AND they are not open at nights or on the weekend 😇
Парень молодец но не рентабельно ,столько затрат а в итоге качество обработки кустарное ,с такой точностью ,даже лучше можно обработать деталь болгаркой и напильником доработать .Если знаешь способ.Не нужно заморачиваться с такой сложной конструкцией .
он просто молодец, сделать станок своими руками при минимальном наборе инструмента - это стоит уважения, я инженер-механик самолетостроения восхищен вами! Удачи в делах!!!
1) the chuck shaft should be 1st aligned with the lathe ways by putting a long straight shaft in the 3 bearings and check the alignment with a micrometer held on the carriage (using a magnet holder for ex) and moved along the ways. Alignemnt of the chuchk shaft can be modified using the adjusment screws on the 3 bearings. 2) the chuck backplate should be then turned on the lathe so that the ridge that goes in the chuck is concentric with the chuck shaft, only then should the backplate be drilled.
You're such a creative guy Sir Sek, it overwhelms me to see a fellow Filipino who's making great contribution to the community. I do hope one day, I'll be able to achieve such large supporters in my own channel. God bless you.
I love it! I would suggest using a different motor which allows speed variation. The smaller the diameter of the piece of metal your turning, the more RPM you need. Maybe one of a bigger hand drill would be a good choice, since these motors are usually electronically controlled.
The problem is PWM and you will lose torque. Better is to calculate a 'gearbox' with different wheels and put the belt on a different wheel to change the speed.
Very clever use of already fabricated parts! The ways and carriage are super hard to make, but your method simplifies the whole process, and could certainly be scaled up!
For a light duty* DIY home workshop lathe, using linear rails is a reasonably workable idea. The 20mm ones he's got are pretty strong, and have a useful amount of mass to them to help prevent tool chatter. Where they fall down though is there's hardly any designs of bearing blocks that have a way to adjust for wear on them. Once there's play in them you can't just tighten up gib screws or resurface the ways. I suppose if you're careful about the bolt hole positioning when building it you could turn the rails around and use the less worn ends to get a bit more life out of them, But you'll probabbly still need to buy new bearing blocks. (*By "Light duty" I mean one that's not used 24/7. If well thought out and constructed I'd think a DIY lathe made using linear rails would probably handle more strain and stay accurate longer than one with traditional dove tail ways, It's just that when it DOES show signs of wear there's not a lot you can do to sort it out other than replacing some pretty expensive hardware.)
@@needdamemes2757 There is also issue of chips and metal dust getting into bearing blocks, ruining them real fast if not protected. There should some accessory parts to those blocks witch try prevent this from happening, but its not perfect solution and as mentioned just little wear and those are next to useless, ending up just wrecking havoc to inserts and surface finish. Its same effect that happened with my DIY mill, from cheap drillpress, cheap cross feed table and rather expensive tooling that got ruined every time it bumped. Tried it in "vertical lathe" setup but similar thing happened. Then again his pillow bearing blocks wont be that accurate anyways, so this is well suited for occasional bushing adapter or such work, but any proper machining tolerances you can forget, though this is lots sturdier than cheap chinese lathes on the market, so with little design chances like cup bearing in the axle to center it properly, replacing threaded rod with machine screw with suitable slack removal like two nuts with strong spring between and building some protection for the ways, sure this will be much cheaper and does what it was designed to do.
Muy buen trabajo, eres un chingón, precisamente estoy necesitando una herramienta para rebajar una parte de unas tuercas, actualmente las mando rebajar al torno pero me cobran muy caro y había pensado precisamente en hacer uno sencillo como este que acabas de hacer, me gustó mucho, me has completado la idea y confirmado que sí se puede. Muchas gracias por compartir y saludos desde León Guanajuato México.
DIY at its best and in the Philippines. This dude knows what he is doing,........his shop is spotless,... great video. Impressive,........doing more with less
I am from Brazil, my friend you are a true genius, I really want to get a lathe and you just made a perfect one, congratulations you are a real genius!
Great job overall, but i have always understood that you never use 3 bearings on a relatively short stiff shaft because they 'fight against' each other and produce vibration and wear out! You should just use two bearings on the lathe spindle. The front one , supporting the chuck, should be the biggest and most robust, eg a roller bearing. The rear one can be a big deep groove ball bearing, to withstand end thrust. Likewise, the linear ball bearings on the saddle and cross-slide should only be in pairs and not threes when spaced close, because it will cause rocking.
Parabéns Sek Áustria, é o mini torno mais bonito que já vi. Vou pegar o seu modelo como total referência. O difícil é encontrar o trilho linear e suas caixas, aqui no Brasil não tem pra comprar. Mesmo assim vou tentar fazer. Abraço.
Things to do. Make a carriage stop to lock the carriage so it can't move along the bed when doing facing cuts. Next, remove the chuck and face its mounting plate, then cut a register step so that the chuck will be concentric without having to use a hammer. That will also ensure it can't slip. After those projects, use the lathe to make some bearings for the leadscrews. Then go on to fabricate a gear drive between the spindle and lead screw, at least for power feed. Thread cutting needs exact ratios between spindle and lead screw.
Excelente!!! Quando você colocou o motor imaginei que ele não seria tão forte. Más quando você torneou aquele pedaço de guia linear de aço duro e cromado provou que não é necessário um motor tão forte quanto os que nós vemos em outros tornos. Parabéns pelo excelente trabalho!!! 👏👏👏
Witam i pozdrawiam!!Wykonanie i zlozenie tokarki wlasnymi rekami to majstersztyk,duza wiedza z dziedziny -budowa maszyn,bedzie sluzyc latami!!Jedyny minus to ze po spawaniu elementow powinno sie je oczyscic i zakonserwowac szpachlowka a potem farba bylby lepszy efekt,dobry pokaz filmu ,tak trzymac!!
Please keep in mind that welding zink plated steel (nuts, bolts) makes very harmful fumes. Weld outside or direct fan at it to blow the fumes away. Great project!
@@jokamwellington4806 yes, pillow blocks there being used to support the shaft - the spindle - having more than two will almost always induce runout and cause unnecessary wear without really being any more stable or rigid. If you need stable and rigid, self centering pillow blocks aren't really the thing to use, tapered roller bearings in fitted castings tend to be the most rigid & precise.
Your vibration could be reduced by increasing your flywheel effect maybe by adding weight to the headstock drive pulley, this looks like Alluminium, steel might help or a custom made heavier
Nice work and very good and it is easy to apply and thank you from the bottom of our hearts from poor countries, which can not afford its modest members to buy expensive machines
Extremely impressive build given the few simple tools you used. But be very careful when using that machine. Only the spinning momentum of that little chuck will surprise you if you give it as much as a chance. Even heavy factory built precision lathes can behave a bit unpredictably at times depending on the work. Please keep all of your fingers, you will need them for future projects. =)
Too much sideway torque forces exerted on the Chuck you reckon as well as the metal hardness being worked on and RPM settings....on that machine seems to be only one speed setting..
I wish you don't mind if I give you some constructive comments: 1. The chuck is the last thing you should mount on the lathe. Weld the flange for the chuck on the shaft at first. Then you can lathe the flange to fit on the chuck that will be perfectly centered. Welding afterwards makes changes to the metal. 2. You don't need three bearings in line, not on the slide rails neither the short spindle shaft. The middle bearing is practically unnecessary.
Great job of building a lathe! I like people who do the things where others say "it can't be done". And you seem to be a master of it! Thanks for sharing the video!
looks about the same precision as a $500.00 Chinese mini lathe although it needs dials so ya know what your taking off your parts. not something i would use but if it gets the job done ya need thats all that matter and kuddos for taking a pile of scrap and making a usable tool out of it ,it was fun to watch thanks for sharing
Excelente eres un genio siempre sigo sus proyectos aunque no sea del mismo idioma pero lo que construye abla por si solo gracias felicitaciones dios lo bendiga saludos
Thank you so much. I was looking to improvise lathe flange i didn't know how to do it, but that first chucking shaft and then welding is really great idea to centre it! Thanks!
Proper lathes dont use ball screws, they use Acme lead screws. Ball screws are a terrible idea on a lathe because they are easily moved from the non feed end. A proper lead screw wont allow the work and tool interaction to reverse the feed. Ball screws basically mandate servos because of this, imagine trying to face a part but every time the tool meets a high spot it pushes slide or carriage back....
You should have built the main shaft and bearing supports from something solid like a couple of matching vehicle driveshaft assemblies which have mighty bearing holders. Upgrade to at least a 3hp motor. Set up coolant feed using an old oil pump with filter. Set up an emergency stop switch and electromagnetic brake coupling. Let her rip!
Apparently the reason for the rough looking surface finish is because you're using carbide insert tools, they require very high RPM and probably many times more than your DIY lathe can do. High-speed steel (HSS) ground to the correct profiles would improve things immeasurably.
Love it. Make a few sheet steel housings to stop swarf getting into your bearings, motor etc. A tailstock is really useful, even if it is just to hold a drill chuck.
Inspirerande!!!!!!. Tack för att du delade länkar till var man får tag på allt man behöver!!!!.Jag kommer att bygga en liknande som din men lite större och med lite andra möjligheter. Men grund idén blir nästan exakt likadan. Tack igen!!!!!!.
20;00 I was doing this with my EMCO Compact 8 Electronic as I wanted to be able to fit several cheaper chucks and also be able to get my fingers closer to the studs and bolts which are now better spaced like yours! £250 and £370 for chucks for it were excessive!!! I also made a faceplate out of a £10 Boxford backplate. David. Reading England.
А че там шикарнейшего? Неверно выбраны направляющие, винты, подшипниковый узел бабки. В итоге куча труда и на выходе поделка для обдирки чего-то мягкого, типа дерева, пластика, алюминия. Крайне слабые направляющие, U образные каретки гибкие, они непригодны для силовых операций. Если бы взял рельсовые направляющие, они не сильно дороже, но куда жестче, то уже что-то бы получилось.
@@denisko121 и если бы человек хотел, он мог бы постараться сделать нормальный станок, а в данном случаи он просто сворганил кривой корпус и прикрепил все основные детали токарного станка(как я увидел)
Tooling angle is slightly high, and too close to 90° to the cutting surface for me. Add some relief by using a tooling block with a radius cut on one side. Should take care of both issues. How accurate is the bed, and do you plan a tail stock? Nice build, btw!
I can't imagine it being to accurate being the cross slide was installed using a square. However with a dial indicator he may have enough play in the bolt holes to bring it in. Same thing for the the rails on the bed way he could adjust the spindle bearings to be parallel. I cant see this being as good as what you can get for $600 - $700 in a mini. It might have a bit more swing but would take a lot to get it dialed in. But I give him props for building it anyway. I might have to see if he has a video with it dialed in any better. You are very correct about the angle of the tool. I wish him the best of luck.
Washing machine motor spining could be set with driver. Cool lathe, easy for numeric control. Consider use of thrust bearing, and clearance check for these vibrations.
Great job! I think that you could improve the quality of finish and accuracy by making it more rigid. I was thinking about doing something similar but adding concrete to the structure for rigidity.
Very good job with the lathe, i like it. Just be sure to clamp the welder ground to the shaft your welding and not the jaws of the chuck, otherwise you could seize the chuck all together, or make it difficult to open or close.
Well done. For those who say not good things, where is yours? Haha, I see the concept is fine. I know you will continue to improve you machine. Again well done
Holy crap someone actually does this. Every diy lathe video I see, one of the first tools they use? A lathe. Well if I had a lathe I wouldn't need to build one, would I? Lol.
I've successfully made a PMDC treadmill motor speed controller using a SCR motor controller, and a bridge rectifier to convert the power from AC to DC. It definitely works, but could probably use some more refinement, and possibly some capacitors to help smooth out the DC voltage on the output. This might be another less expensive option if someone has a motor but no PWM speed controller available. I'd strongly recommend anyone interested in this to do their own research to make sure that they know what they're doing, what they're working on, and how it all works, as mains voltage can be lethal if one isn't careful with it. I hope this helps point someone in the right direction and gives people more options and good ideas to explore :)
Good job, buddy! It seems to me that some changes will be necessary in the future, but the machine for now working well :) I was planning on making a similar machine for several months, but you were faster than me: D
Thanks bro. Your always making projects faster than me i always plan to build similar projects of yours but you were always posting it first. You are in the level of make it extreme bro im so proud of you :)
A youtuber David Richards ( steam powered machine shop) he has some hand built tools for machining diy built some are over 100 years old and still working. They look like you could make some of them for your shop
This, though a homemade, but still a lathe, not an anvil. When you mark holes or wear a bearing with a hammer using a bed of a lathe, my heart starts to ache.
They have too much play, you need to use angular contact ball bearings or tapered roller bearings with some preload applied to them, otherwise the spindle will wobble all over the place and your finish is poor and you can't do parting at all
@@MF175mp you are right, but the title is 'without lathe machine'. For use tapper bearing you need lathe machine for housing. And pillow bearing are working enough for home made mechine.
You have made a great tool here.if you can get your hands on any old treadmills/walking machines the motors are good for variable speeds and cheap to buy speed controllers for.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent project. I applaud your effort and the end result. If you find you have rigidity issues, you may wish to consider a larger diameter main spindle shaft and possibly tapered bearings to eliminate end play. Also, maybe I missed it, take the chuck off that backing plate and face the plate so you know its true to the shaft, then re-assemble the chuck to it.. Welding has a way of making things move a bit. Thumbs up from me.
just here to upvote facing the backplate, no reason why you shouldn't eliminate as much cause of error as you can, this will help you hold a better tolerance and make your parts run a bit more true. Facing the back plate and getting some tapered roller bearings the chuck would go a long way, this DIY late should make some great parts after some upgrades.
You just built a machining lathe (that at least gets the job done) from 90% scrap! That is incredible! Bravo!
Nice to see a young man using practical skills i learnt in my first ever job and have never forgotten. despite it ending 20 years ago after 13 years in the trade.
Nice work. I was a little concerned about the precision of the measurements lining up the guide rods and such, but looks like it came out okay. One thing - get in the habit of *never* leaving the chuck key in the chuck unless your hand is on it, or one day, you *will* eat it when you forget and turn on the motor.
It's even worse when you turn on the motor with your hand on it and in the chuck.
I am enjoying this!! Says someone with 6 lathes and 2 mills.
BUT my first lathe was a school project which led to a Degree in 3 D Design.
A life teaching 3 D Design... And now making model Steam Locomotives. Yes I still use the home made Lathe with slipping belt clutch. Lots of love David and Lily.
Excellent, I'm coming over for some lessons.
But why did you not have the heart to tell him what he did wrong? Did you maybe figure that he learned what he did wrong in the process? It's great that he accomplished this but I don't know for sure that he does know the important differences between this and one that wouldn't require hammering a bearing on as we saw. Looks like that bearing didn't turn so well either after he did that. What would you say ...+/- .002" repeatability & accuracy?
I haven't made my own but I have rebuilt a little Smithy (Midas) 1220-xl except for the gearbox. Fortunately, the gearbox was sealed and hadn't been contaminated with sand rust like everything else. I'm just glad I went to school, watched 1000+ hours of videos and read up extensively, on the subjects I needed to know to make the thing chooch. The one thing I didn't realize though, was that the main reason my teachers were telling me not to get a mill/lathe combo was because they are horribly inefficient when you need to go from milling to turning or vice versa. The two just interfere with each other to much so If I gotta turn anything larger than 2.5" dia. the vice either has to come off or I have to position the vice far to one side so I have to take the work out of the vice & turn it around to mill the other side, just as one example.
Maybe he could make some modification to get some preloading. ...?
In theory if you take the chuck off and reface the mount now that that lathe works, it might make the chuck a little more aligned. Awesome stuff!
You know the moment I have a home with a shed to work in, I'm coming back to this video among others. This beast is one item too big to move between the laundry alcove and the outside workbench daily.
Data you can purchase a Mini Lathe for about 500$ and it does everything. But ok go for it
Sa lahat ng nakita kong gumawa ng lathe. Eto lang talaga ang pulido. Gawang pinoy pa.
im proud to be unting unti na nakikilala ang sarili nating gawa
Fabrication is not a art or hobby or what ever some people look at it , it is a way of living and is inside some people who grow up with it
It is just in some people!!!!!
Thomas D Harrell
I meant some who get familiar with it in early age
Great work just as a point for the future, instead of using a solid roundbar for the head shaft use a 3mm or bigger walled pipe, this will allow you to turn longer projects that run through the pipe, but this would mean you will have to replace those head bearings as well for bigger units and resleaving the main pully. Good luck and I like this build.
The problem is finding such a tube. Show a URL where it can be purchased please along with the correct bearing to also fit. Otherwise it's not helpful at all. It's just criticism not helping
That's very nice considering what you had to work with.
Chucks always have a precision shoulder on the back to align the mandrel with the chuck. You should face the backplate without the chuck and machine the male shoulder on it. The diameter have to be as precise as possible compared to the inner diameter in the back of the chuck so the alignment will be precise too.
This should give a good alignment on the jaw of the chuck then you can get a nice reference round bar, put it on the chuck and align the carriages to the rotation axis by putting a micrometer on the carriage and moving it up and down and see/fix the error.
But I understand that this was more of a proof of concept. Nice work.
Remarkable...
May not be the absolute best small lathe a person can have in their workshop BUT it does what it has to and makes so many more projects withing reach without having to go to expensive machine shops to get a part made...
AND they are not open at nights or on the weekend 😇
точностьу станка конечно так себе, но любой парень молодец и заслуживает уважения кто делает хоть что то, а не сидит на диване.
там даже соосности нет шпиндель-салазки...
Парень молодец но не рентабельно ,столько затрат а в итоге качество обработки кустарное ,с такой точностью ,даже лучше можно обработать деталь болгаркой и напильником доработать .Если знаешь способ.Не нужно заморачиваться с такой сложной конструкцией .
он просто молодец, сделать станок своими руками при минимальном наборе инструмента - это стоит уважения, я инженер-механик самолетостроения восхищен вами! Удачи в делах!!!
а можно узнать, какие самолёты ты строишь? чтобы не садиться в них.
1) the chuck shaft should be 1st aligned with the lathe ways by putting a long straight shaft in the 3 bearings and check the alignment with a micrometer held on the carriage (using a magnet holder for ex) and moved along the ways. Alignemnt of the chuchk shaft can be modified using the adjusment screws on the 3 bearings.
2) the chuck backplate should be then turned on the lathe so that the ridge that goes in the chuck is concentric with the chuck shaft, only then should the backplate be drilled.
This machine ain't accurate enough for this anyway lol. I mean, hot rolled steel? Chinese Hardware? Get Real.
You're such a creative guy Sir Sek, it overwhelms me to see a fellow Filipino who's making great contribution to the community. I do hope one day, I'll be able to achieve such large supporters in my own channel. God bless you.
Home Innoventions piosenki
PIOSENKI
I love it! I would suggest using a different motor which allows speed variation. The smaller the diameter of the piece of metal your turning, the more RPM you need. Maybe one of a bigger hand drill would be a good choice, since these motors are usually electronically controlled.
>>>>
The problem is PWM and you will lose torque. Better is to calculate a 'gearbox' with different wheels and put the belt on a different wheel to change the speed.
The easiest to build. Grade 1000.
A mais fácil de ser construída. Nota 1000
Very clever use of already fabricated parts! The ways and carriage are super hard to make, but your method simplifies the whole process, and could certainly be scaled up!
For a light duty* DIY home workshop lathe, using linear rails is a reasonably workable idea. The 20mm ones he's got are pretty strong, and have a useful amount of mass to them to help prevent tool chatter.
Where they fall down though is there's hardly any designs of bearing blocks that have a way to adjust for wear on them. Once there's play in them you can't just tighten up gib screws or resurface the ways. I suppose if you're careful about the bolt hole positioning when building it you could turn the rails around and use the less worn ends to get a bit more life out of them, But you'll probabbly still need to buy new bearing blocks.
(*By "Light duty" I mean one that's not used 24/7. If well thought out and constructed I'd think a DIY lathe made using linear rails would probably handle more strain and stay accurate longer than one with traditional dove tail ways, It's just that when it DOES show signs of wear there's not a lot you can do to sort it out other than replacing some pretty expensive hardware.)
honestly for an inexpensive DIY lathe this is really good, I had never considered using optical rails or bearing blocks
@@needdamemes2757 There is also issue of chips and metal dust getting into bearing blocks, ruining them real fast if not protected. There should some accessory parts to those blocks witch try prevent this from happening, but its not perfect solution and as mentioned just little wear and those are next to useless, ending up just wrecking havoc to inserts and surface finish. Its same effect that happened with my DIY mill, from cheap drillpress, cheap cross feed table and rather expensive tooling that got ruined every time it bumped. Tried it in "vertical lathe" setup but similar thing happened.
Then again his pillow bearing blocks wont be that accurate anyways, so this is well suited for occasional bushing adapter or such work, but any proper machining tolerances you can forget, though this is lots sturdier than cheap chinese lathes on the market, so with little design chances like cup bearing in the axle to center it properly, replacing threaded rod with machine screw with suitable slack removal like two nuts with strong spring between and building some protection for the ways, sure this will be much cheaper and does what it was designed to do.
Muy buen trabajo, eres un chingón, precisamente estoy necesitando una herramienta para rebajar una parte de unas tuercas, actualmente las mando rebajar al torno pero me cobran muy caro y había pensado precisamente en hacer uno sencillo como este que acabas de hacer, me gustó mucho, me has completado la idea y confirmado que sí se puede. Muchas gracias por compartir y saludos desde León Guanajuato México.
I cant believe every bolt fitted its place. My honest respects.
DIY at its best and in the Philippines.
This dude knows what he is doing,........his shop is spotless,... great video.
Impressive,........doing more with less
This is the determination and dedication that gave us our tools of technological success... great job!
I am from Brazil, my friend you are a true genius, I really want to get a lathe and you just made a perfect one, congratulations you are a real genius!
Great job overall, but i have always understood that you never use 3 bearings on a relatively short stiff shaft because they 'fight against' each other and produce vibration and wear out! You should just use two bearings on the lathe spindle. The front one , supporting the chuck, should be the biggest and most robust, eg a roller bearing. The rear one can be a big deep groove ball bearing, to withstand end thrust. Likewise, the linear ball bearings on the saddle and cross-slide should only be in pairs and not threes when spaced close, because it will cause rocking.
@Raul mechanics yes taper roller bearings will cope with radial load and thrust much better, intact that's exactly what they are designed for.
This guy gives hope to DIYer's that can't afford a lot of high end equipment. Thanks for the videos!
my sentiments exactly. I see his tools are sometimes the cheapest ones but he didnt use that as an excuse to stop him from making this machine.
@@ChrisWMF absolutely! Well said Chris👍🏻
Parabéns Sek Áustria, é o mini torno mais bonito que já vi. Vou pegar o seu modelo como total referência. O difícil é encontrar o trilho linear e suas caixas, aqui no Brasil não tem pra comprar. Mesmo assim vou tentar fazer. Abraço.
I love it. It clearly took you quite a few hrs to build. I'm sure it will last year's of hard use with the quality you put into it
Hola, es admirable lo que has logrado con pocas herramientas y con un resultado excelente, felicitaciones desde Uruguay.
No es mucha ciencia esa madre cualquiera lo puede aser solo te tiene que gustar aser prollectos , ve a darle de comer al pinche gallo
@@j.q5723 men yo también soy de uruguay... Déjame decirte que la mayoría no tenemos gallos... :)
Things to do. Make a carriage stop to lock the carriage so it can't move along the bed when doing facing cuts. Next, remove the chuck and face its mounting plate, then cut a register step so that the chuck will be concentric without having to use a hammer. That will also ensure it can't slip. After those projects, use the lathe to make some bearings for the leadscrews. Then go on to fabricate a gear drive between the spindle and lead screw, at least for power feed. Thread cutting needs exact ratios between spindle and lead screw.
Good start. Now I want to see a gearbox, a feed screw, and some kind of measurement markings!
Pretty good job. Amazing what people can do if you set your mind to it. Try and take out the minor play for a more accurate cut.
Well done and thanks for not using background music I prefer to hear the natural sounds like in this video!
I also appreciate the natural sounds....minus that goddamned rooster that i would have shot day one of this build
Fine job by the way.
Excelente!!! Quando você colocou o motor imaginei que ele não seria tão forte. Más quando você torneou aquele pedaço de guia linear de aço duro e cromado provou que não é necessário um motor tão forte quanto os que nós vemos em outros tornos. Parabéns pelo excelente trabalho!!! 👏👏👏
Witam i pozdrawiam!!Wykonanie i zlozenie tokarki wlasnymi rekami to majstersztyk,duza wiedza z dziedziny -budowa maszyn,bedzie sluzyc latami!!Jedyny minus to ze po spawaniu elementow powinno sie je oczyscic i zakonserwowac szpachlowka a potem farba bylby lepszy efekt,dobry pokaz filmu ,tak trzymac!!
Please keep in mind that welding zink plated steel (nuts, bolts) makes very harmful fumes. Weld outside or direct fan at it to blow the fumes away. Great project!
use just two spindle bearings - having three will cause all three to wear out very quickly. two bearings will last longer & is more accurate
Hi. Just curious. What spindle bearing u talking about ? Is that pillow block you mean? Thanks
@@jokamwellington4806 yes, pillow blocks there being used to support the shaft - the spindle - having more than two will almost always induce runout and cause unnecessary wear without really being any more stable or rigid. If you need stable and rigid, self centering pillow blocks aren't really the thing to use, tapered roller bearings in fitted castings tend to be the most rigid & precise.
The best from scratch lathe build on you tube. way better than open source wood and concrete ones.
Good. But we need thrust bearing pads, because you will have axial play. Always having an inaccurate result.
صدقا" انت شخص محترف بحسدك على هالمعلمية يامعلم بالتوفيق انشالله👍بتمنالك النجاح😘
Your vibration could be reduced by increasing your flywheel effect maybe by adding weight to the headstock drive pulley, this looks like Alluminium, steel might help or a custom made heavier
Looks surprisingly good! And a lathe like this, is waaay better than no lathe at all!
Job well done!
Nice fabrication! Most people have no idea what it takes to make something like this, thanks.
yo si tengo idea de lo que es trabajo en eso
He's a Pro...
Nice work and very good and it is easy to apply and thank you from the bottom of our hearts from poor countries, which can not afford its modest members to buy expensive machines
Extremely impressive build given the few simple tools you used. But be very careful when using that machine. Only the spinning momentum of that little chuck will surprise you if you give it as much as a chance. Even heavy factory built precision lathes can behave a bit unpredictably at times depending on the work. Please keep all of your fingers, you will need them for future projects. =)
Too much sideway torque forces exerted on the Chuck you reckon as well as the metal hardness being worked on and RPM settings....on that machine seems to be only one speed setting..
I wish you don't mind if I give you some constructive comments:
1. The chuck is the last thing you should mount on the lathe. Weld the flange for the chuck on the shaft at first. Then you can lathe the flange to fit on the chuck that will be perfectly centered. Welding afterwards makes changes to the metal.
2. You don't need three bearings in line, not on the slide rails neither the short spindle shaft. The middle bearing is practically unnecessary.
When you return with the cutting tool after making a cut, you should move it away from the material. You'll get a better surface finish :)
If we a million like you, a good lathe would be cheap to own. Thumbs up sir.
Great job of building a lathe! I like people who do the things where others say "it can't be done". And you seem to be a master of it! Thanks for sharing the video!
Galing galing mo po!!! Ang Mabuti naman machine!!!! Awesome work!!! 😎👍🏼🇵🇷
looks about the same precision as a $500.00 Chinese mini lathe although it needs dials so ya know what your taking off your parts. not something i would use but if it gets the job done ya need thats all that matter and kuddos for taking a pile of scrap and making a usable tool out of it ,it was fun to watch thanks for sharing
Chaina ke gand me ghuja
It is $400 Phillipino lathe :)
Just when you think you saw it all YT shows you a guy building a working metal lathe in his backyard with recycled parts... Great video!
nice project, well done. this guy will survive an apocalypse. might buy two cone pulleys and get three or four spindle speeds
Thanks for sharing. It's people like you who transform the world for the better.
Check my description links. Thanks bro.
@@SekAustriaRight. It was my fault. I just watched it later.
Excelente eres un genio siempre sigo sus proyectos aunque no sea del mismo idioma pero lo que construye abla por si solo gracias felicitaciones dios lo bendiga saludos
Thank you so much. I was looking to improvise lathe flange i didn't know how to do it, but that first chucking shaft and then welding is really great idea to centre it! Thanks!
Replace the threaded rod with ball screw with respective parts and it will work like a proper lathe... Add servos and you have a CNC
Muito bom
Proper lathes dont use ball screws, they use Acme lead screws. Ball screws are a terrible idea on a lathe because they are easily moved from the non feed end. A proper lead screw wont allow the work and tool interaction to reverse the feed.
Ball screws basically mandate servos because of this, imagine trying to face a part but every time the tool meets a high spot it pushes slide or carriage back....
Dami kong natutunan boss 16 yrs old here.
You should have built the main shaft and bearing supports from something solid like a couple of matching vehicle driveshaft assemblies which have mighty bearing holders. Upgrade to at least a 3hp motor. Set up coolant feed using an old oil pump with filter. Set up an emergency stop switch and electromagnetic brake coupling. Let her rip!
Well said bro. I think there will be a part two of this project thanks for the suggestion bro :)
An encouragement for others to follow your compassion and ambition
10 out of 10 for ingenuity! Need a lathe? Build a lathe! 👍
Apparently the reason for the rough looking surface finish is because you're using carbide insert tools, they require very high RPM and probably many times more than your DIY lathe can do.
High-speed steel (HSS) ground to the correct profiles would improve things immeasurably.
Thanks bro
Love it. Make a few sheet steel housings to stop swarf getting into your bearings, motor etc. A tailstock is really useful, even if it is just to hold a drill chuck.
I don’t want one,, but 10 out of 10 for all the work you have put in on it.. regards Frank
Now, you have a lathe! Congratulations!!! You can make improvements as you go along.
Inspirerande!!!!!!. Tack för att du delade länkar till var man får tag på allt man behöver!!!!.Jag kommer att bygga en liknande som din men lite större och med lite andra möjligheter. Men grund idén blir nästan exakt likadan. Tack igen!!!!!!.
Hammering on your bearings to center punch holes? Mark the holes and move the plate to the bench.
Molto bravo, hai creato uno strumento professionale in modo semplice ma efficace.
20;00 I was doing this with my EMCO Compact 8 Electronic as I wanted to be able to fit several cheaper chucks and also be able to get my fingers closer to the studs and bolts which are now better spaced like yours! £250 and £370 for chucks for it were excessive!!!
I also made a faceplate out of a £10 Boxford backplate. David. Reading England.
Boa noite sou o Edson de Ferraz de Vasconcelos SP e quero parabenizar seu trabalho sou fam desse tipo de máquina parabéns muito bom
Работа шикарнейшая!
Особенно понравилась ножовка!
Не решён вопрос с миллиметровой шкалой подачи в двух осях.
А че там шикарнейшего? Неверно выбраны направляющие, винты, подшипниковый узел бабки. В итоге куча труда и на выходе поделка для обдирки чего-то мягкого, типа дерева, пластика, алюминия. Крайне слабые направляющие, U образные каретки гибкие, они непригодны для силовых операций. Если бы взял рельсовые направляющие, они не сильно дороже, но куда жестче, то уже что-то бы получилось.
This is the BEST DIY video I have ever seen in my whole life. Magnificent work.
Отличный станок для изготовления ручек для напильников.
только ручек ?
@@migorneirov798 я конечно не професионал, но мне почему то кажется что на более его и не хватит
@@rariteck как основа для творчества самое оно ))
@@denisko121 не в руках человека который подшипники забивает молотком и лениться банальную ржавчину убрать с уголков
@@denisko121 и если бы человек хотел, он мог бы постараться сделать нормальный станок, а в данном случаи он просто сворганил кривой корпус и прикрепил все основные детали токарного станка(как я увидел)
I'm only about 8 minutes into you video and I'm grateful that I found it really enjoyed the video build
Tooling angle is slightly high, and too close to 90° to the cutting surface for me. Add some relief by using a tooling block with a radius cut on one side. Should take care of both issues. How accurate is the bed, and do you plan a tail stock? Nice build, btw!
I can't imagine it being to accurate being the cross slide was installed using a square. However with a dial indicator he may have enough play in the bolt holes to bring it in. Same thing for the the rails on the bed way he could adjust the spindle bearings to be parallel. I cant see this being as good as what you can get for $600 - $700 in a mini. It might have a bit more swing but would take a lot to get it dialed in. But I give him props for building it anyway. I might have to see if he has a video with it dialed in any better. You are very correct about the angle of the tool. I wish him the best of luck.
Filha
Washing machine motor spining could be set with driver. Cool lathe, easy for numeric control. Consider use of thrust bearing, and clearance check for these vibrations.
Great job! I think that you could improve the quality of finish and accuracy by making it more rigid. I was thinking about doing something similar but adding concrete to the structure for rigidity.
pracujem na podobnom ale večšom projekte do konštrukcie som dal armovany beton dosť navýšilo váhu stroja uvidím
Very good job with the lathe, i like it. Just be sure to clamp the welder ground to the shaft your welding and not the jaws of the chuck, otherwise you could seize the chuck all together, or make it difficult to open or close.
Well done. For those who say not good things, where is yours? Haha, I see the concept is fine. I know you will continue to improve you machine. Again well done
Thanks bro.
@@SekAustria Amigos soy de catazaja Chiapas México y quiero comprar un mandril de torno quiero saber si cuánto valen
Greetings from Russia!!! I'm going to make the machine myself . Your video is only added to the desire. Thanks!!!
У парня руки растут от куда надо, молдец, хорошая работа!
Да,только шпиндель полый должен быть,планшайбу на сварку не садят,как-то так!
@@ВладимирПетряев-ю4ш и еще он свободно ходит вдоль оси.
Holy crap someone actually does this. Every diy lathe video I see, one of the first tools they use? A lathe. Well if I had a lathe I wouldn't need to build one, would I? Lol.
You gotta dig up a old 2.5hp PMDC treadmill motor with a Gemini 12m04-00151 PWM speed controller,hook up a 6 or 10k potentiometer and 🤯🥳
I've successfully made a PMDC treadmill motor speed controller using a SCR motor controller, and a bridge rectifier to convert the power from AC to DC. It definitely works, but could probably use some more refinement, and possibly some capacitors to help smooth out the DC voltage on the output. This might be another less expensive option if someone has a motor but no PWM speed controller available. I'd strongly recommend anyone interested in this to do their own research to make sure that they know what they're doing, what they're working on, and how it all works, as mains voltage can be lethal if one isn't careful with it. I hope this helps point someone in the right direction and gives people more options and good ideas to explore :)
Saya akan buat mesin seperti ini.
Good luck Mr.
Good job, buddy! It seems to me that some changes will be necessary in the future, but the machine for now working well :)
I was planning on making a similar machine for several months, but you were faster than me: D
Thanks bro. Your always making projects faster than me i always plan to build similar projects of yours but you were always posting it first. You are in the level of make it extreme bro im so proud of you :)
Next step a drill mill
Надеюсь ты сделаешь лучше.
Made in Poland I can’t wait to see yours too man. You do incredible work.
I have a feeling you will do a far better job.
Muy buen trabajo! Cuidado con el guante sobre las ventilaciones del motor y cerca de la correa!
I enjoy men intense DIY, you really need a dial micro dial indicator to get your work run-outs to a minimum.
A youtuber David Richards ( steam powered machine shop) he has some hand built tools for machining diy built some are over 100 years old and still working. They look like you could make some of them for your shop
it is a bit wobbly but for being made at home with a hacksaw made of rebar you got fantastic results. Kudos!
This, though a homemade, but still a lathe, not an anvil. When you mark holes or wear a bearing with a hammer using a bed of a lathe, my heart starts to ache.
😂
This lathe is better than no lathe at all. I'll try mine, just at the right time.
Chicken or egg springs to mind you need a lathe to make lathe or so.Great job!!!!
Como fasso pra compra
Bjkmknn. Jhkknnmnnnjjb. Mmmk uuuiioghhkjh
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@@thuthanh5660 resep kue
Great job. i love how even though the lathe wasn't done you used the machine to improve its own parts. also i admire your hack saw.
Cool lathe! A tailstock next so you can turn more accurately between centers?
I would love to make them all but the video is taking too lonv. I might make it off cam. Thanks man
Great ideas and ability. I had an uncle like that, he could build first class labor saving machines out of old auto parts.
Well done I need one , but with three jaw chuck ( I'm lazy )
nice video very informative. subukan ko din gumawa nito for addition on my small workshop. 😁
Execellent! But Im just freacking out for security norms
grabe idol to... pangarap kong magkaron ng lathe
I have a couple pillow block bearings lying around and wondered if they would work for a lathe. Question answered!
They have too much play, you need to use angular contact ball bearings or tapered roller bearings with some preload applied to them, otherwise the spindle will wobble all over the place and your finish is poor and you can't do parting at all
@@MF175mp you are right, but the title is 'without lathe machine'. For use tapper bearing you need lathe machine for housing. And pillow bearing are working enough for home made mechine.
@@mightyfitness4053 you can buy a housing that will fit 7000 series angular contact bearings i think
@Richard NZ this is excellent idea, I am going to do that. But I can't find right strong pipe for use as spindle axis.
@@mightyfitness4053 you could just use a solid bar and then drill and bore it once its installed
You have made a great tool here.if you can get your hands on any old treadmills/walking machines the motors are good for variable speeds and cheap to buy speed controllers for.