The STL file we use in this video, the sleeping dog, is part of our Welcome Pack 2.0, available for our fantasy bundle subscription. Click the link below to know more: bit.ly/30q1Sez
I will generally print everything at .03 layer level I find it the best time to quality, sure it might take a bit longer but it will look better and if you want things to be there to look at might as well having it looking better :-)
@@BigMikeMora Also interested in this! I changed to 0.03 based on recommendations but didn't adjust the exposure time. I only just started printing, though, so not sure if it's optimal.
@@BigMikeMora u need to change everything, otherwise u will loose in quality, and it might be overexposed. U need to redo a full test. I suggest doing a full test for 05, and then anthoner one fror 03, each time you buy new resins. So u can change settings quickly
this is perfect timing! I just brought home my new resin printer yesterday :D I'm printing the bard right now, always had a problem with some part of her breaking on my fdm printer edit: Holy shit, the difference is amazing! she has fingers! and lute strings! and a face! and no part broke off!
Quality, ALWAY quality. Sure, printing at those lower layer heights is going to take longer but the results are well worth it. If it's going to be a functional part then I will go with a higher layer height and speed thing up as much as I safely can but when I am going to print a detailed figure and want the best surface possible it's lower layer heights and lower speeds. In this day and age where it's all about speed it's good to teach and actually show people with printed examples the difference it can make. Thanks for showing them that good things take time. Subbed!
I'm painting my minis printed with a 0.5 mm and we still see them once primed and painted :( I'm looking for alternate methods to not see the layers such as "Brush On Primer" (it's slightly more thick so I suppose it could fill the gap between layers) and plastic putty, but in every case the paint is too thin to hide layers.
I've only tweaked the layer height on my printer once (set it to max) in the hope of printing a large model quickly, but the print failed, so I never messed with it again. You've inspired me to take another look at dialing in my layer heights for best results. Thank you.
I Have a Anycubic Photon M3 and I only chance de Layer in 10mm Miniatures, and I think 0.04 it's the best for 32mm minis. And thanks for the information. This helps me a lot to print my minis in the best quality.
I started out using 0.05mm layer height when I first got my printer, but recently changed to 0.03mm layer height…more concerned with print quality of miniatures than print time. Not sure if I’ll try going thinner at some point, but for now I’m pretty happy with the quality at 0.03mm.
great vid... on my LD002R i usually use .02 mm and on my mono i use .025 mm layer... found that these gives the beast result printing 32mm minis... when printing bigger stuff i use .05mm on both printers
I use an Anycubic Photon S printer. I read in a Photon S forum somewhere that this printer (2K resolution) struggles with printing anything smaller than .05 layer height, so I've not attempted to go any lower. You've intrigued me to try, though!
This is exactly what im trying to eliminate from my prints on the anycubic mono 4k, i just got thr mono 2 the other day and that basically eliminates all lines in default but need to get the mono 4k running as good so will be trying out this tonight
0.02 or 0.035mm but a lot depends on anti aliasing, which does not always work correctly with different applications, for example with anycubic mono se, this is a pain. Tell us about smoothing or post processing, how do you cut the model and do you use sandpaper?
My current default layer height is 0.025 mm, that compromise works well for me. I follow the setting recommendations of GrimDark Terrain, which produces terrain for Adeptus Titanicus, which in turn tends to have many surfaces that would show the stairs of 0.05 mm layer height too well for satisfaction.
Adpatative layer height would be a great contrinution to resin printing. Considering a cube with rounded cornes, the slices can use 0.1mm or 0.05mm and in the at the planes with cornes reduce that layer to 0,03 or less. In resin printer I bet it's easy to implement by developers, because our x and y resolution are always the same and the shrink compensarion of the resin is a spec of the resin that you will print all the model. Juts a idea, they implemented on a less stable and precise method, filament print, why not in resin print?
Thank you very much! Will tweak my Anycubic Photon M3 for Battletech miniature printing. Default is 50um and layer lines are not that visible in the mechs but I want to see how far my printer can go.
I've been using .035mm because I don't really mind the time it takes, I usually print overnight or while I am working. may go even lower but I haven't had time to test exposure times.
Im liking the base .005mm layer height i want to go thinner but im waiting untill i find some larger pieces to print with high detail. Im cool with a 10+hour print if i know it will be worth it but working on 28-35mm minies .005 looks really good.
I print bigger models most of the time, so .05 seems an okay value for the job. Might try .03, just to see the quality difference. But the printing time increase on big models may scare me away from it again, lol.
What are your settings that you’re getting such quick print times.. I dialed in my resin and I’m still doing about a hour and a half longer than your prints at .05
Thank you guys for providing a non-Facebook link for the new Fantasy for December, could we please get the same for the new Sci-Fi concept art? The December fantasy pack looks like the best one you've done in months, really awesome! Love the Gnome Illusionist!
I print everything at .05 layer level I find it the best time to quality. Anything I resin print is for quality and I have a few FDM that I use for bigger items that do no need quality with .1 to .4
Very interesting video, thanks a lot :) In my case, I always used 0.05 mm layers and I especially see them for faces that very horizontally orientated (for example, if we rotate a standing character at 90°, we'll see layers on the front). Less I incline it, less they are visible because I suspect the anti-aliasing option only applies on X and Y axis. I'll try to decrease it to 0.04 or 0.03 for my next prints, but not further.
Is the exposure time linearly correlated to layer height? For example, if I go from 50 microns to 25 microns, should my exposure time be halved or would I need to fine tune my exposure times for each resolution?
Best would be to print some benchmark for details, there's a lot of videos on TH-cam. :) With Photon Mono I have something between 1.95s and 1.7s per layer, but it differs per layer height and also resin! :)
At the moment I'm still figuing out my mono se so I've been using 50um and 35um so far with great results from the eco resin after switching to lychee slicer.
@@beemo1579 I usually test for details of the particular calibration. So I print 5 different plates (each varies in 0.05s on my Mono) and then just let more people pick the best. But I'm not sure I understood what you mean. :)
@@BleedingDev so I have an anycubic photon mono. If I change layer height down from 0.05 to say 0.03 is it worth testing different exposure times at the same time? Or would they stay the same?
@@beemo1579 for me, when I went from 50 um to 25 um, I also lowered exposure time by 0.05. But I might have to recalibrate as now I use different resin. So I'd say give it a try, it's max. 1 hour of work. :)
question: I usually print at .05, if I chage to .03, or .01 would I have to change the exposuretime and rasing speed? if so, how do I determine by how much?
From what I have heard, then simple rule is for every 0.01 lowering you should also about 10% lower exposure time. For example if you are using 0.05 with 2.5 sec exposure, then with 0.3 layer exposure time should be 2 sec (2.5 x0.8).
Ok I’m going to reduce the layer thickness to 0.03mm. I’ve also noticed that you have the anti aliasing was turned off. Is this correct when printing a 0.03mm. Looks so smooth 👍
A good video, ill no be changing anything, as im content with the layer height, as most of the time i can not notice the lines at 0.05 after painting, but i like the use of very lose up images to prove the difference it actually makes. :)
For terrain and stuff (pillars, chests, ...) I use 50um. For friends of mine I go for 25 um and for mine I use 10 um, because I'm painting them with Citadel Contrast colours. :)
I'll likely do the same, for the same reasons What exposure and lift speed settings do you use? I know it also depends on machine and resin, but I'd be interested to hear the values you've found to work, just to see the relative differences. 😊
You forgot to mention that reducing your layer height will also reduce the curing time needed for each layer. Otherwise I like the video because it helps teach beginners the basics.
I’ve been considering decreasing my layer height from 0.05mm to 0.03mm (or possibly even 0.01mm). Do you think that a good layer exposure time for that is 2 seconds?
It would be much more helpful to discuss the voxel (3d pixel). To get the optimal resolution and make x/y match the capacity of z based on 1, 2, 4, and 8k options. This would also matter to the size of your screen. My Epax X1 with a 5.5” 4K screen has a smaller pixel (31.5 micron) versus a 6.6” (~35 micron) which would continue to be less resolved at a 13.3” or 15.6”. By comparison a 10.1” 8k would have a 28.5 micron pixel and if that 8k screen were smaller resolution would continue to rise. So if time/optimal printing is considered the shape and the x/y has to be considered and is a square voxel or a flat rectangular voxel going to yield a better print.
So you are telling with consideration of your last video about Exposurtime, you do print 0.05 Layerhight with 1,0 sec Exposurtime? I have a Photon Mono as well, and these settings are a sure fail for me. My Exposurtime is at least 2,0 sec with 0,05 Layerhight. Before I used Anycubic Clear with these settings and it worked fine. Now I use Anycubic Grey and already increased the Exposurtime to 2,5 sec and I am still struggling with the Outcome.
Is there some formula for changing the time and lift speeds between resolution settings? For instance, .05 to .03 is a 60% decrease. If you have a 3 second delay at 0.5 what is at 0.3?
Hey Robin! After you subscribe, you can purchase our older bundles for 30$ each, accessing the tab "Old Loot's" www.loot-studios.com/old-loots-all . If you are not a subscriber and want check on them, you can do it here: www.loot-studios.com/story-all
If your printer supports it, it should be. The thing is, the smaller you make your layers, the more it will take to print, and sometimes the difference is negligible to the naked eye. In this video, we tried showing what could be a sweet spot, so you don't need to worry about it yourself 😉
Geralmente uso 0.05 e 2 segundos, caso eu queira usar 0.03 de camada tenho que diminuir o tempo certo? Como faço, um regra de 3 simples? Se em 0.05 uso 2 segundos, então em 0.03 devo usar 1,20 segundos por camada? Na duvida é imprimir testes de novo e ver na pratica xD
For me it depends, since I am 14 years old and I have to go to school, when I'm home i print with 0.05mm layer hight since I want yo be able to print good prints but quickly. But when I go to bed I insert prints of 0.01mm layer hight because I will not be able to take them out until 6pm next day
![MV วิถีชีวิตใต้ - ผา อัยย๊ะ [Official MV HD]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nODlkOUu9B0/mqdefault.jpg)
The STL file we use in this video, the sleeping dog, is part of our Welcome Pack 2.0, available for our fantasy bundle subscription. Click the link below to know more:
bit.ly/30q1Sez
0
,1
@@valentinasarria6394 a
Recently switched from .05 to .025. Love the quality improvement
I will generally print everything at .03 layer level I find it the best time to quality, sure it might take a bit longer but it will look better and if you want things to be there to look at might as well having it looking better :-)
do you keep the resin exposure settings the same as the .05? I might consider trying this out...
@@BigMikeMora Also interested in this! I changed to 0.03 based on recommendations but didn't adjust the exposure time. I only just started printing, though, so not sure if it's optimal.
Hey, a 10 hour print is still quicker than buying with next day delivery lol 👍
@@BigMikeMora u need to change everything, otherwise u will loose in quality, and it might be overexposed. U need to redo a full test. I suggest doing a full test for 05, and then anthoner one fror 03, each time you buy new resins. So u can change settings quickly
This is going to yield a square voxel, or nearly square and will depend if curves are pronounced in the design.
this is perfect timing! I just brought home my new resin printer yesterday :D I'm printing the bard right now, always had a problem with some part of her breaking on my fdm printer
edit: Holy shit, the difference is amazing! she has fingers! and lute strings! and a face! and no part broke off!
I think it may be helpful to show the effect of layer height on painting, especially washes and contrast paints.
Quality, ALWAY quality. Sure, printing at those lower layer heights is going to take longer but the results are well worth it. If it's going to be a functional part then I will go with a higher layer height and speed thing up as much as I safely can but when I am going to print a detailed figure and want the best surface possible it's lower layer heights and lower speeds. In this day and age where it's all about speed it's good to teach and actually show people with printed examples the difference it can make. Thanks for showing them that good things take time. Subbed!
Would have been interesting to see a comparison after the models are primed. I would imagine, that some paint may smooth the layer lines quite a bit.
I'm painting my minis printed with a 0.5 mm and we still see them once primed and painted :( I'm looking for alternate methods to not see the layers such as "Brush On Primer" (it's slightly more thick so I suppose it could fill the gap between layers) and plastic putty, but in every case the paint is too thin to hide layers.
I've only tweaked the layer height on my printer once (set it to max) in the hope of printing a large model quickly, but the print failed, so I never messed with it again. You've inspired me to take another look at dialing in my layer heights for best results. Thank you.
Please please please keep this kind of videos, I'm learning tons! Obrigado!
Absolutely love the videos.
I am a newbie, and your channel helps me out a LOT 😄
Keep up the great work 🤘
I Have a Anycubic Photon M3 and I only chance de Layer in 10mm Miniatures, and I think 0.04 it's the best for 32mm minis. And thanks for the information. This helps me a lot to print my minis in the best quality.
thank you, i knew what to do and how to configure but i didnt know HOW it worked, ty ty
awesome video!!!
So much experimenting to do!
Great job Julia
Love at first sight.
I really need to study all of your videos to do a good job as this really drives me crazy sometimes.
I started out using 0.05mm layer height when I first got my printer, but recently changed to 0.03mm layer height…more concerned with print quality of miniatures than print time. Not sure if I’ll try going thinner at some point, but for now I’m pretty happy with the quality at 0.03mm.
great vid... on my LD002R i usually use .02 mm and on my mono i use .025 mm layer... found that these gives the beast result printing 32mm minis... when printing bigger stuff i use .05mm on both printers
I use an Anycubic Photon S printer. I read in a Photon S forum somewhere that this printer (2K resolution) struggles with printing anything smaller than .05 layer height, so I've not attempted to go any lower. You've intrigued me to try, though!
Thanks for sharing all of this videos, they are very helpful and enjoyable
I use a .01 layer height on smaller parts and blast it at 1.5 secs with an 80% LED output... works great!
Thank You...............💖💖💖
0.05mm currently
But have considered going to 0.03mm as the layers are quite noticeable to me when painting and would prefer an even smoother surface.
Have you tried using the antialiasing setting?
@@Selppins Antialiasing is only applied on XY axis, not on Z one :)
This is exactly what im trying to eliminate from my prints on the anycubic mono 4k, i just got thr mono 2 the other day and that basically eliminates all lines in default but need to get the mono 4k running as good so will be trying out this tonight
Good stuff
great advice, thank you! I use 0.05 but I'm new and thats kinda the default.
Thanks for the video, really helpful!
thanks, great video
thank you
Great video and a clear explanation. Thank you.
Great video! I love that you guys are teaching the basics! I usually print at .03 on my Sonic Mini 4k, and. 05 on my Epax E10.
This is fantastic:)
Yours 0.01 prints look way better than mine and I'm using same printer. Would you mind sharing settings/resin brand?
0.02 or 0.035mm but a lot depends on anti aliasing, which does not always work correctly with different applications, for example with anycubic mono se, this is a pain. Tell us about smoothing or post processing, how do you cut the model and do you use sandpaper?
Slice the model using anycubic photon workshop and anti aliasing will work with most recent firmware :)
My current default layer height is 0.025 mm, that compromise works well for me. I follow the setting recommendations of GrimDark Terrain, which produces terrain for Adeptus Titanicus, which in turn tends to have many surfaces that would show the stairs of 0.05 mm layer height too well for satisfaction.
Adpatative layer height would be a great contrinution to resin printing.
Considering a cube with rounded cornes, the slices can use 0.1mm or 0.05mm and in the at the planes with cornes reduce that layer to 0,03 or less.
In resin printer I bet it's easy to implement by developers, because our x and y resolution are always the same and the shrink compensarion of the resin is a spec of the resin that you will print all the model.
Juts a idea, they implemented on a less stable and precise method, filament print, why not in resin print?
Great idea :) Indeed it would be amazing :)
Thank you very much! Will tweak my Anycubic Photon M3 for Battletech miniature printing. Default is 50um and layer lines are not that visible in the mechs but I want to see how far my printer can go.
Hy!
Have you already tried using transparent water-based resin? If so, could you bring a video about the settings and experiences?
I've been using .035mm because I don't really mind the time it takes, I usually print overnight or while I am working. may go even lower but I haven't had time to test exposure times.
Im liking the base .005mm layer height i want to go thinner but im waiting untill i find some larger pieces to print with high detail. Im cool with a 10+hour print if i know it will be worth it but working on 28-35mm minies .005 looks really good.
Yes.... More!
Vaaaleu!
Eu comprei uma Elegoo Mars 3 Pro hoje e imprimi um jogo de dados de RPG, estava com essas dúvidas aí :)
I print bigger models most of the time, so .05 seems an okay value for the job. Might try .03, just to see the quality difference. But the printing time increase on big models may scare me away from it again, lol.
great lesson!! :D thanks ;)
wonderful! thank you!
exquisite
Mt mt bom, testar tudo hj
0.03 é um valor muito bom. Mas eu acho que depende também do tamanho e da superfície da impressão. Belo vídeo 👏🏾☺️
What are your settings that you’re getting such quick print times.. I dialed in my resin and I’m still doing about a hour and a half longer than your prints at .05
I use 0.05mm an anti aliasing to remove the voxel lines. Can you do a video on anti aliasing?
O sotaque te entregou Julia kkkkkkkkk
Só pelo acento no Júlia já sabíamos. 😅
Thank you guys for providing a non-Facebook link for the new Fantasy for December, could we please get the same for the new Sci-Fi concept art?
The December fantasy pack looks like the best one you've done in months, really awesome!
Love the Gnome Illusionist!
Thanks for the feedback! I will share your idea with the team.
My resin printer comes tomorrow. It can do 18 microns. Can I set it to 0.018 or do I have to set it to 0.02? I guess I’ll find out tomorrow.😅
I print everything at .05 layer level I find it the best time to quality. Anything I resin print is for quality and I have a few FDM that I use for bigger items that do no need quality with .1 to .4
Very interesting video, thanks a lot :) In my case, I always used 0.05 mm layers and I especially see them for faces that very horizontally orientated (for example, if we rotate a standing character at 90°, we'll see layers on the front). Less I incline it, less they are visible because I suspect the anti-aliasing option only applies on X and Y axis. I'll try to decrease it to 0.04 or 0.03 for my next prints, but not further.
Is the exposure time linearly correlated to layer height? For example, if I go from 50 microns to 25 microns, should my exposure time be halved or would I need to fine tune my exposure times for each resolution?
Best would be to print some benchmark for details, there's a lot of videos on TH-cam. :)
With Photon Mono I have something between 1.95s and 1.7s per layer, but it differs per layer height and also resin! :)
It’s logarithmic. There are various tables online to check but still a print test is mandatory
If I change the layer height, do I have to change the exposure time?
At the moment I'm still figuing out my mono se so I've been using 50um and 35um so far with great results from the eco resin after switching to lychee slicer.
Is there any downsides to changing layer height outside of time? Also should exposure time change if you decrease layer height?
It's best to print some calibration piece with new layer height and also with new resin. :)
@@BleedingDev thanks! Certainly I will do that before committing. Just was wondering if that is something I should test for?
@@beemo1579 I usually test for details of the particular calibration. So I print 5 different plates (each varies in 0.05s on my Mono) and then just let more people pick the best.
But I'm not sure I understood what you mean. :)
@@BleedingDev so I have an anycubic photon mono. If I change layer height down from 0.05 to say 0.03 is it worth testing different exposure times at the same time? Or would they stay the same?
@@beemo1579 for me, when I went from 50 um to 25 um, I also lowered exposure time by 0.05. But I might have to recalibrate as now I use different resin. So I'd say give it a try, it's max. 1 hour of work. :)
question: I usually print at .05, if I chage to .03, or .01 would I have to change the exposuretime and rasing speed? if so, how do I determine by how much?
From what I have heard, then simple rule is for every 0.01 lowering you should also about 10% lower exposure time. For example if you are using 0.05 with 2.5 sec exposure, then with 0.3 layer exposure time should be 2 sec (2.5 x0.8).
Nice Brazilian Portuguese accent! Could tell just by the name hahaha
I never changed the layer height settings in my printer
Interesting. Good to have some content on 3D printing! This definitely helps push me toward getting a 3D printer!
Ok I’m going to reduce the layer thickness to 0.03mm. I’ve also noticed that you have the anti aliasing was turned off. Is this correct when printing a 0.03mm. Looks so smooth 👍
I finally painted a printed mini for the first time after a couple of years of printing. At .05 mm, I did find layers lines a bit too visible.
So if I’m correct if I print at 0.1 I need to double my exposure times per layer also to match the double to the height?
.04 but It also depends on the printer the exposure time and the UV power, at least that's how it is with me on the mono x.
A good video, ill no be changing anything, as im content with the layer height, as most of the time i can not notice the lines at 0.05 after painting, but i like the use of very lose up images to prove the difference it actually makes. :)
Is this made with the Phrozen Aqua-Grey resin?
I use 0.05 on a Elegoo 3 4k, can I reduce it down to 0.01 for detailed rings? The resins I am using is Nova 3D Grey washable 405mm.
I'm new to this. You don't mention exposure time (that I noticed) so for a basic grey resin from Anycubic, what exposure time would you recommend?
For terrain and stuff (pillars, chests, ...) I use 50um. For friends of mine I go for 25 um and for mine I use 10 um, because I'm painting them with Citadel Contrast colours. :)
I'll likely do the same, for the same reasons
What exposure and lift speed settings do you use?
I know it also depends on machine and resin, but I'd be interested to hear the values you've found to work, just to see the relative differences. 😊
@@Mike-tc2rl It might take some time for me to check as I no longer have direct access to the printer since I started Digital nomad life.
You forgot to mention that reducing your layer height will also reduce the curing time needed for each layer. Otherwise I like the video because it helps teach beginners the basics.
Most helpfull comment on this whole thread. I didnt think of that it seems obvious now
1:00.
Its literally one of the first things they tell you
I’ve been considering decreasing my layer height from 0.05mm to 0.03mm (or possibly even 0.01mm). Do you think that a good layer exposure time for that is 2 seconds?
It would be much more helpful to discuss the voxel (3d pixel). To get the optimal resolution and make x/y match the capacity of z based on 1, 2, 4, and 8k options. This would also matter to the size of your screen. My Epax X1 with a 5.5” 4K screen has a smaller pixel (31.5 micron) versus a 6.6” (~35 micron) which would continue to be less resolved at a 13.3” or 15.6”. By comparison a 10.1” 8k would have a 28.5 micron pixel and if that 8k screen were smaller resolution would continue to rise. So if time/optimal printing is considered the shape and the x/y has to be considered and is a square voxel or a flat rectangular voxel going to yield a better print.
So you are telling with consideration of your last video about Exposurtime, you do print 0.05 Layerhight with 1,0 sec Exposurtime? I have a Photon Mono as well, and these settings are a sure fail for me. My Exposurtime is at least 2,0 sec with 0,05 Layerhight. Before I used Anycubic Clear with these settings and it worked fine. Now I use Anycubic Grey and already increased the Exposurtime to 2,5 sec and I am still struggling with the Outcome.
Is there some formula for changing the time and lift speeds between resolution settings? For instance, .05 to .03 is a 60% decrease. If you have a 3 second delay at 0.5 what is at 0.3?
Anyone know how we get the painting handle used in this video? I remember seeing it ages ago, also Ive been a Loot subscriber for 7 months.
You can get it in the Welcome Pack 2.0 :)
Is there any way to get previous months bundles?
Hey Robin! After you subscribe, you can purchase our older bundles for 30$ each, accessing the tab "Old Loot's" www.loot-studios.com/old-loots-all . If you are not a subscriber and want check on them, you can do it here: www.loot-studios.com/story-all
@@LootStudios Thank you
@@magicien233 Also they are preparing a black friday/cyber monday deals for buying old loots. It was announced few days ago
I usually using 0.05 for 75mm and 0.03 for 32 mm.
What does Anti-aliasing do in Chitubox and should I enable it with the print settings I listed below?
Julia...the "miniture maven"
10 micron, is it stable for printing?
If your printer supports it, it should be. The thing is, the smaller you make your layers, the more it will take to print, and sometimes the difference is negligible to the naked eye. In this video, we tried showing what could be a sweet spot, so you don't need to worry about it yourself 😉
@@LootStudios i tried and result better very much. i will guide our clientd do that. Thank you
I use .05 for my layer height, it's not a 4k printer so the real tinkering doesn't really matter as much.
I use 50um as I even was not aware that resin printer could go below 50um :O
Title isn't a question, so shouldn't have a question mark. 'How can I...? (etc.) - that's a question.
Please kill me. All best.
Geralmente uso 0.05 e 2 segundos, caso eu queira usar 0.03 de camada tenho que diminuir o tempo certo? Como faço, um regra de 3 simples? Se em 0.05 uso 2 segundos, então em 0.03 devo usar 1,20 segundos por camada? Na duvida é imprimir testes de novo e ver na pratica xD
wanna try 0.01mm for minis and also 0.1mm for tech
Pls make a supports tutorial in lychee
0.02 because that's finer than whe Form3 can do and I like 1uping "pro" grade Form3.
Helloooo mungo!
.050 nobody have microscope eyes and the paint covers almost all the errors of that layer size
Essa mina é brasileira, ctza
hello @Loot ! can you share the discord url ?
I use always 0,03 Layer hight. That way I dont Care yourself much detail i need.
I'll do whatever the fuck she says
100 numetres
Or more commonly known as 0.1mm
Aynen
For me it depends, since I am 14 years old and I have to go to school, when I'm home i print with 0.05mm layer hight since I want yo be able to print good prints but quickly. But when I go to bed I insert prints of 0.01mm layer hight because I will not be able to take them out until 6pm next day
Hola, me podrían mandar una invitación para Discord, Gracias
laughs in FDM 0.2mm ....