Nice job on the Kevlar canoe repair. Looks good. 6 months ago, I repaired a 16 year old Wenonah Solitude solo Kevlar canoe. The previous owner had hit something that left a thumbnail size hole in the bow. The hole had been patched with an epoxy patch that hid the damage. After a couple of years, the epoxy patch cracked and broke away from the Kevlar allowing water to enter the bow buoyancy chamber. After many phone calls, I discovered that no reputable canoe dealer would repair a Kevlar canoe that had been repaired with epoxy. I called Wenonah to see if they would repair it. The answer was "No." The Wenonah repair technician advised to only use polyester resin to repair Kevlar. I bought the repair kit from Wenonah. They also advised to use fiberglass (not Kevlar) for the overlay patches. I did as they recommended. I used a shopvac to suck the resin from the outside of the bow and through the damaged Kevlar until it reached the inside surface of the buoyancy chamber. After letting that cure for a couple of days, I covered the outside with 2 layers of fiberglass and polyester resin (per Wenonah advice). When the damaged Kevlar was exposed, it was obvious that the cured epoxy had separated from the Kevlar. When I did the repair with polyester resin, the resin soaked into the dry Kevlar fibers. The instructions I got from Wenonah go contrary to common practice that I found when searching the internet. The repair is watertight and structurally sound, from the saltwater marshes on Galveston Island to the cypress tree bayous on Caddo Lake.
Great advice. It sounded Wierd to my ears that a Kevlar canoe would be repaired with epoxy resin. I'll get in contact with the manufacturer of my canoe before repairing. Thx
I’m another person whose used the West System pumps for many years with no issues. I’ve got two sets myself and others at work.. never an issue with them. Nice work mate!
Looks great. I use the pumps but I always pump my resin and hardner into seperate measuring containers. Then when Im sure I have the correct ratios I pour my hardner into the resin then mix. I lost count on a once on a cedar strip kayak and the resin never set up. Ive never had a pump fail though. Ive never used west system either. Im getting ready to do some repairs on my cedar strip kayak after 18.5 years of hard use. Thanks for taking the time to make a video to help others. Again great job.
Very cool. I think it's awesome that you're restoring that 23yr old boat and hopefully you'll get many more wonderful memories out with it. Good job Sir.
I went to buy a 28 year old boat with the bottom about the same condition and a hole in it that needed to be repaired... offered the guy 800 for it and he wouldn't take less than a grand.... I bought new instead, and hope to have the same amount of time with the new one as this gentleman has had with his or more time :-)
Hope your new boat lasts 25+ years. In 1992, I paid around $1500 for the Sundowner shown in this video. For several years, I would take that total cost and divide it by the total trips and total number of days I was out in the boat (mostly BWCA or Quetico trips). With each trip, drove the cost/day and cost/trip down. Would guess I'm now well below $7/day, maybe less than that. With outfitters charging $40-45/day for kevlar canoe rental these days, I think I've gotten my money's worth.
I would say so! I paid 1700 for the wenonah 17 ultra light kevlar... Thought I got it at a steal for new. Apparently they discontinued it a few years ago. Super excited to get it in the water... if this damn snow could stop.
Thanks for taking the time to share. I have a Souris River canoe which I am doing the same to. I found It took forever to sand it with 80 grit paper and the orbital sander. Hardest was the areas in between rivets where the kevlar vibrated with the sander. I elected to purchase the marked measuring cups just because I was too cheap to spend $18 on pumps. Personally, I hope my bottom scratches come out better than yours. I noticed while cleaning the bottom with lacquer thinner (like acetone) that the lines indeed disappeared before it evaporated. A few years ago, I put a coat of varnish on the hull and it looked great (no scratches showing afterwards). But being varnish it didn't have the strength of the epoxy. I hope this hides the scratches like the varnish did. As for the ridge created by the painters tape, I couldn't stand for that. I would sand the ridge off and add a blending coat of epoxy. Maybe you have since done that. Again thanks for sharing your experience. Greatly helpful was your "consistancy like corn syrup" comment to a first timer.
I have seen some debate on whether to use epoxy resin or polyester resin to refinish the outside of a kevlar canoe. I went to Western Canoe and Kayak yesterday in Abbotsford B.C. to ask this as they are also the factory where Clipper canoes are built. I was told to use polyester resin. It is what the ultralight kevlar canoes are made with. He said it's much easier to work with than epoxy, and will bond better because they are the same material. He said to lightly sand the surface but not so much that you are getting down to the kevlar. Another good thing is that polyester resin is much cheaper than epoxy resin.
Thanks for the comment. I agree. Did this repair 7 years ago now. Learned a lot. Has held up very well, but if I ever do this again, would use polyester resin. That said, I am old. Would likely sell this canoe and put $ toward a new canoe if there ever is a “next time” for me. (Bought canoe in this video in 1993. Did re-coat in 2016, 23 years after initial purchase. Might need another re-coat in 2039 if I am not in nursing home by then. 😝) I continue to be somewhat amazed at how many views this old video gets. Must be a lot of folks with beat up old Kevlar canoes in this world!
You were misinformed. Kevlar canoes are made with vinyl ester resin. Older, heavier fiberglass boats were made with polyester--its old technology . Epoxy has excellent adhesion.
@@EricREvans I'm in Sydney, Australia. Looking to give my Solo Plus, Wenonah, a touch up this spring 2024. I think I'll sand it and use the polyester resin finish. Thanks for your advice.
@@Aus_RaH Thanks for your comment. As I have said in other comments, if I were doing it again, I would use the polyester resin. Go slowly and take your time. You’ll have an ‘almost new’ canoe. Happy paddling in/around Sydney. BTW: I also have a Wenonah Advantage solo canoe and love it. Has not needed any repair to date and is around 23 years old. I live not too far from Winona, Wisconsin where the Winonah factory is.
Pumps do screw back together. You need to check them in between uses. If you do know a ratio don't use it you could end up with a disaster. They rotate with use if you let them. Pumps are fast and let you mix any amount you want. Used pumps for years they are great only popped one once. Check them there's no problem with them.
Great job. My research on boat repair said to use plastic straight edged razors. Never knew such things existed but they work awesome. For future projects. :) Thanks for sharing.
unless the scratches go all the way down to the kevlar, I wouldn't epoxy over the whole boat like that, It just adds weight to the boat without adding any significant benefit. If you want it to look pretty, just give it a coat of marine spar varnish thinned with paint thinner. That will hide a lot of the scrapes and will be a lot lighter than epoxy.
Agree re: weight. In this case, many of the scratches penetrated through to the Kevlar over several sections of the bottom. I would not apply coat up the sides if I were to do it again. (But don’t plan on doing it again!)
I got a kyack that was made in 1993 by phoneix and I got to get figured out how to paint the bottom of the kyack. That's the reason I'm watching these videos...it's a 17 foot Kevlar kyack..
Nice job...i just tried a section and used sirran wrap on top as per some advice....dont do it! Did lay nice now i have to sand off the resin and start over...you liked the roller? What nap? You said the milky appearance disappeared as it cured? Thanks
Great video. Thank you. I’m performing the same refinish on a 1981 sundowner. I see some comments regarding applying second coat when tacky. Any idea how long before tacky and a second coat could be applied? Thanks again. Very helpful.
I have a 12 foot crack in my 1989 16 foot cedar strip. Should I repair by belt sanding and then epoxy a new sheet of fiberglass cloth over the bottom hull?
I don’t know about cedar strip canoes, so not sure what to advise. You might find some good info/advice here: www.wcha.org/forums/index.php#maintenance-and-construction.1
Many years ago a friend put resin on his Crozier Carbon Fiber canoe(badly oxidized) I don't know what brand resin or how well he prepared the surface, but a few years later the resin started to peel off.
I got a kevlar Classic 12 pack canoe bought from Hornbeck Boats already scratched real good by the ends on its 3 time in the water and I am wondering how can I repair those scratches or if I should just not worry about it just yet?
Hard to believe it has been 7 years since I did this re-coat and made the video. Epoxy coating has held up very well. No delaminating or peeling. I am about to take the same canoe on a BWCA trip in June 2023; about 7 weeks from now. I will post a video of that trip, probably in July. I think I have more than got the value out of the canoe purchase: bought in 1993 for around $1595 new. Picked it up at Wenonah factory and took it on its first trip to the BWCA the next week. 1-2 trips to BWCA a year for 30 years. Average of 8-9 days a trip, so maybe 50 trips X 8 days/trip average = 400 days in BWCA. So, around $4 per day. And, I could probably sell the canoe for around what I paid for it in ‘93. 🏕😀
Yes, adding resin will make canoe heavier. More coats = more weight, but more protection. Would guess canoe shown in this video was 2-4 pounds heavier after the two coats. Could do no coats at all and just let the canoe wear through. One coat. Two coats or more, I guess. Like most things in life, it was a trade off. In retrospect, I would likely have NOT added resin coat up the sides as it was unnecessary in my opinion and didn't add value, especially for the added weight. Canoe is still doing trips, now 8 years since I did this repair/coating. Holding up well.
Great post. Thanks for sharing experience! @sailorDon01, THANKS! 'The Wenonah repair technician advised to only use polyester resin to repair Kevlar.' Myself, I picked up a 16' Kevlar with a scratched hull, not as serious as yours. Great to know!
When it comes to epoxy best practice is measuring pumps . Also if i were you, because epoxy waxes over as it cures try getting the whole thing done in 2 coats. First as a thin film of epoxy and once tacky a film of epoxy with micro beads. It will adhere without having to wash and flat it again , and will smooth out the dents . Then varnish if you think its going to be exposed to sunlight .
How has the refinish job held up? I spoke with a guy from Wenonah and he warned against this type of complete restoration, but didn’t have a better suggestion. And Wenonah does not do repairs or restoration for you. So I want to go ahead with your method. But I would like to hear how she’s holding up. Your work looks great!
Now, just short of 2 years since this was done and video posted, holding up very well. I am pleased. Have done 1-3 trips to BWCA of 5-10 days each year since with another planned in about a month. In addition, day trips to local lakes/flat water every season as well. Have hit a few rocks, so a few minor scratches as is to be expected, but I try when possible to 'baby' my boats. I do keep my canoes in my garage, suspended from ceiling with rope/pulley systems, so very little exposure to weather or UV when not on trips. May need to put another coat of UV protection/Epifanes boat varnish in a year or two; don't know how to tell when it is time to do so. Probably will just do it to be sure I have good UV protection. Have noted other suggestions/critiques in other comments below and, if I do this again in 21 years (keeping to my 'every 23 year re-coat' schedule), I would do a better job and likely do some things differently. I still would NOT use the pumps with resin and hardener given my experience. If patching a hole/major damage in hull, would use fiberglass cloth patch and likely polyester resin, but I hope I never put a hole all the way through my boat. For my re-coating purposes, epoxy resin worked well and is holding up so far.
I followed all of your instructions to a t , down to the help of my dogs. Probably the most critical part. And now my canoe looks awesome. It was in rough shape with some deep scratches when I bought it from an outfitter. I’ve breathed new life into it now. It looks like it was dropped on the rocks at one time and has a large patch in the side. I want to put a patch there on the inside. I saw one video where a guy patched the inside with both Kevlar and fiberglass. What do you suggest? Is the fiberglass necessary? What is the benefit of it?
Leanne Hinke I am no expert in patching holes in canoes and have never done/tried that. I have seen some good TH-cam videos on this subject, though. If patch that you say is there is on outside and looks good, not sure additional patch on inside would be needed, though. In addition to info on the internet, you may want to call Wenonah factory (or other manufacturer) to seek advice.
10/04/20: Just an update. Just returned from another BWCA trip yesterday. My Sundowner continues to serve me well. Epoxy has held up well and, despite a few more scratches/normal wear and tear, looks good. Hope to get a few more good years of use from this canoe. Hope to post TH-cam video of this most recent trip to my TH-cam channel. Look there for nice video showing this canoe in action from last year’s trip to Quetico Falls Chain area.
About to restore my Holy Cow 16 1/2 foot Kevlar canoe that has been inside and outside stored ( and never used yet!) just to make it shiny and new again!
Hello Jeff. I too just got the same canoe recently. In addition to oxidization, mine has 2 stress crack/soft areas that need to be beefed up. I sent a note to Holy Cow asking for any product suggestions they might have. I believe our boats are Kevlar with a gel coat final layer. I need to learn more about how to patch and refinish these materials. Let me know how to reach you and I will share anything that I learn along the way. Good luck on your restoration. Regards, Steve
Second coat could have been added when almost dry (still minimally tacky) and excellent bond occurs. Never had a pump fail with 6 boats made/fiberglassed.(WEST System and MAS)... I own a 92 Sundowner! Did you know that is the name of a horse!
It's wise to use multiple rags and lots of acetone. Acetone is so darn volatile that it can dissolve oils and grease--then flash off so quickly that it redeposits on the surface I've used WEST system for years and never had a pump failure. Certainly the large capacity professional pumps are bullet proof. Possibly they have recently cheapened up the small kits that they sell to amateurs. That happens when the bean counters take control of a company 🙄🙄🙄
Will be 6 years next month. Canoe going strong. Have 2 BWCA trips planned for this summer. Some usual/typical 'wear and tear' scratches, but coat I did in this video has held up nicely.
Repolied to this once previously but don't see that my reply was posted. I ordered the West System 105 resin in the 32 fl oz can with the 207 hardener in the 10.6 fl oz can. Place I bought these (Jamestown Distributors) sells these in a set; just enough hardener in the can for the volume of resin (assuming you mix in proper ratio). Again, if I were to do it over, given my bad experience with the pump malfunctioning, I would NOT buy the pumps but simply mix in small, disposable plastic cups. Keep it simple (and reduce risk of something going wrong). That amount of resin and hardener easily did my canoe repair and I had about 1/4 of the volume of resin and hardener left over at the end.
Nice job on the Kevlar canoe repair. Looks good.
6 months ago, I repaired a 16 year old Wenonah Solitude solo Kevlar canoe. The previous owner had hit something that left a thumbnail size hole in the bow. The hole had been patched with an epoxy patch that hid the damage. After a couple of years, the epoxy patch cracked and broke away from the Kevlar allowing water to enter the bow buoyancy chamber. After many phone calls, I discovered that no reputable canoe dealer would repair a Kevlar canoe that had been repaired with epoxy. I called Wenonah to see if they would repair it. The answer was "No."
The Wenonah repair technician advised to only use polyester resin to repair Kevlar. I bought the repair kit from Wenonah. They also advised to use fiberglass (not Kevlar) for the overlay patches. I did as they recommended. I used a shopvac to suck the resin from the outside of the bow and through the damaged Kevlar until it reached the inside surface of the buoyancy chamber. After letting that cure for a couple of days, I covered the outside with 2 layers of fiberglass and polyester resin (per Wenonah advice).
When the damaged Kevlar was exposed, it was obvious that the cured epoxy had separated from the Kevlar. When I did the repair with polyester resin, the resin soaked into the dry Kevlar fibers.
The instructions I got from Wenonah go contrary to common practice that I found when searching the internet.
The repair is watertight and structurally sound, from the saltwater marshes on Galveston Island to the cypress tree bayous on Caddo Lake.
SailorDon01 crazy story I’m glad it turned out well
Great advice.
It sounded Wierd to my ears that a Kevlar canoe would be repaired with epoxy resin. I'll get in contact with the manufacturer of my canoe before repairing. Thx
I emailed Wenonah and they said polyester resin.
I’m another person whose used the West System pumps for many years with no issues. I’ve got two sets myself and others at work.. never an issue with them.
Nice work mate!
so glad I found your video!!! I'm happy with the outcome of my 36 year old mohawk
An old boat kind of becomes “family” I think. 1 more year and mine will babe 30 years old. Will need to plan a special trip for that anniversary!
Looks great. I use the pumps but I always pump my resin and hardner into seperate measuring containers. Then when Im sure I have the correct ratios I pour my hardner into the resin then mix. I lost count on a once on a cedar strip kayak and the resin never set up. Ive never had a pump fail though. Ive never used west system either. Im getting ready to do some repairs on my cedar strip kayak after 18.5 years of hard use. Thanks for taking the time to make a video to help others. Again great job.
Very cool. I think it's awesome that you're restoring that 23yr old boat and hopefully you'll get many more wonderful memories out with it. Good job Sir.
I went to buy a 28 year old boat with the bottom about the same condition and a hole in it that needed to be repaired... offered the guy 800 for it and he wouldn't take less than a grand....
I bought new instead, and hope to have the same amount of time with the new one as this gentleman has had with his or more time :-)
Hope your new boat lasts 25+ years. In 1992, I paid around $1500 for the Sundowner shown in this video. For several years, I would take that total cost and divide it by the total trips and total number of days I was out in the boat (mostly BWCA or Quetico trips). With each trip, drove the cost/day and cost/trip down. Would guess I'm now well below $7/day, maybe less than that. With outfitters charging $40-45/day for kevlar canoe rental these days, I think I've gotten my money's worth.
I would say so!
I paid 1700 for the wenonah 17 ultra light kevlar... Thought I got it at a steal for new. Apparently they discontinued it a few years ago. Super excited to get it in the water... if this damn snow could stop.
I am curious of you have any updates on how well your re-epoxy job held up after some time and use.
Absolutely awsome congratulations looks great I just got my first Kevlar 49 canoe needs bit of work so yiur video was a great help
Thanks for taking the time to share. I have a Souris River canoe which I am doing the same to. I found It took forever to sand it with 80 grit paper and the orbital sander. Hardest was the areas in between rivets where the kevlar vibrated with the sander.
I elected to purchase the marked measuring cups just because I was too cheap to spend $18 on pumps.
Personally, I hope my bottom scratches come out better than yours. I noticed while cleaning the bottom with lacquer thinner (like acetone) that the lines indeed disappeared before it evaporated.
A few years ago, I put a coat of varnish on the hull and it looked great (no scratches showing afterwards). But being varnish it didn't have the strength of the epoxy. I hope this hides the scratches like the varnish did.
As for the ridge created by the painters tape, I couldn't stand for that. I would sand the ridge off and add a blending coat of epoxy. Maybe you have since done that.
Again thanks for sharing your experience. Greatly helpful was your "consistancy like corn syrup" comment to a first timer.
I have seen some debate on whether to use epoxy resin or polyester resin to refinish the outside of a kevlar canoe. I went to Western Canoe and Kayak yesterday in Abbotsford B.C. to ask this as they are also the factory where Clipper canoes are built. I was told to use polyester resin. It is what the ultralight kevlar canoes are made with. He said it's much easier to work with than epoxy, and will bond better because they are the same material. He said to lightly sand the surface but not so much that you are getting down to the kevlar. Another good thing is that polyester resin is much cheaper than epoxy resin.
Thanks for the comment. I agree. Did this repair 7 years ago now. Learned a lot. Has held up very well, but if I ever do this again, would use polyester resin.
That said, I am old. Would likely sell this canoe and put $ toward a new canoe if there ever is a “next time” for me. (Bought canoe in this video in 1993. Did re-coat in 2016, 23 years after initial purchase. Might need another re-coat in 2039 if I am not in nursing home by then. 😝)
I continue to be somewhat amazed at how many views this old video gets. Must be a lot of folks with beat up old Kevlar canoes in this world!
You were misinformed. Kevlar canoes are made with vinyl ester resin. Older, heavier fiberglass boats were made with polyester--its old technology . Epoxy has excellent adhesion.
@@EricREvans I'm in Sydney, Australia. Looking to give my Solo Plus, Wenonah, a touch up this spring 2024.
I think I'll sand it and use the polyester resin finish. Thanks for your advice.
@@Aus_RaH Thanks for your comment. As I have said in other comments, if I were doing it again, I would use the polyester resin. Go slowly and take your time. You’ll have an ‘almost new’ canoe. Happy paddling in/around Sydney.
BTW: I also have a Wenonah Advantage solo canoe and love it. Has not needed any repair to date and is around 23 years old. I live not too far from Winona, Wisconsin where the Winonah factory is.
Pumps do screw back together. You need to check them in between uses. If you do know a ratio don't use it you could end up with a disaster. They rotate with use if you let them. Pumps are fast and let you mix any amount you want. Used pumps for years they are great only popped one once. Check them there's no problem with them.
Great job.
My research on boat repair said to use plastic straight edged razors. Never knew such things existed but they work awesome. For future projects. :)
Thanks for sharing.
Nice work. I found this video very helpful. Thanks for posting!
unless the scratches go all the way down to the kevlar, I wouldn't epoxy over the whole boat like that, It just adds weight to the boat without adding any significant benefit. If you want it to look pretty, just give it a coat of marine spar varnish thinned with paint thinner. That will hide a lot of the scrapes and will be a lot lighter than epoxy.
Agree re: weight. In this case, many of the scratches penetrated through to the Kevlar over several sections of the bottom. I would not apply coat up the sides if I were to do it again. (But don’t plan on doing it again!)
@@EricREvans You can use a bead of superglue to repair scratch damage that goes down to the cloth
I got a kyack that was made in 1993 by phoneix and I got to get figured out how to paint the bottom of the kyack. That's the reason I'm watching these videos...it's a 17 foot Kevlar kyack..
Nice job...i just tried a section and used sirran wrap on top as per some advice....dont do it! Did lay nice now i have to sand off the resin and start over...you liked the roller? What nap? You said the milky appearance disappeared as it cured? Thanks
why such a thick nap roller for such a smooth surface?
Great video. Thank you. I’m performing the same refinish on a 1981 sundowner. I see some comments regarding applying second coat when tacky. Any idea how long before tacky and a second coat could be applied? Thanks again. Very helpful.
I have a 12 foot crack in my 1989 16 foot cedar strip. Should I repair by belt sanding and then epoxy a new sheet of fiberglass cloth over the bottom hull?
I don’t know about cedar strip canoes, so not sure what to advise. You might find some good info/advice here:
www.wcha.org/forums/index.php#maintenance-and-construction.1
Many years ago a friend put resin on his Crozier Carbon Fiber canoe(badly oxidized) I don't know what brand resin or how well he prepared the surface, but a few years later the resin started to peel off.
I got a kevlar Classic 12 pack canoe bought from Hornbeck Boats already scratched real good by the ends on its 3 time in the water and I am wondering how can I repair those scratches or if I should just not worry about it just yet?
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Why did you epoxy practically the whole canoe?
I'm curious how this epoxy system has held up over these years?
Hard to believe it has been 7 years since I did this re-coat and made the video.
Epoxy coating has held up very well. No delaminating or peeling. I am about to take the same canoe on a BWCA trip in June 2023; about 7 weeks from now. I will post a video of that trip, probably in July. I think I have more than got the value out of the canoe purchase: bought in 1993 for around $1595 new. Picked it up at Wenonah factory and took it on its first trip to the BWCA the next week. 1-2 trips to BWCA a year for 30 years. Average of 8-9 days a trip, so maybe 50 trips X 8 days/trip average = 400 days in BWCA. So, around $4 per day. And, I could probably sell the canoe for around what I paid for it in ‘93. 🏕😀
Fantastic! Thank you and happy paddling!
Would this make the canoe a few pounds heavier? Can you do just one coat?
Yes, adding resin will make canoe heavier. More coats = more weight, but more protection. Would guess canoe shown in this video was 2-4 pounds heavier after the two coats.
Could do no coats at all and just let the canoe wear through. One coat. Two coats or more, I guess. Like most things in life, it was a trade off.
In retrospect, I would likely have NOT added resin coat up the sides as it was unnecessary in my opinion and didn't add value, especially for the added weight.
Canoe is still doing trips, now 8 years since I did this repair/coating. Holding up well.
Great post. Thanks for sharing experience! @sailorDon01, THANKS! 'The Wenonah repair technician advised to only use polyester resin to repair Kevlar.' Myself, I picked up a 16' Kevlar with a scratched hull, not as serious as yours. Great to know!
I’ve used west system Epoxy for years with the pumps never an issue
So I do not have a dog, but I have a cat named Stella, will she be a good enough supervisor?
When it comes to epoxy best practice is measuring pumps . Also if i were you, because epoxy waxes over as it cures try getting the whole thing done in 2 coats. First as a thin film of epoxy and once tacky a film of epoxy with micro beads. It will adhere without having to wash and flat it again , and will smooth out the dents . Then varnish if you think its going to be exposed to sunlight .
Great video. I hope you got some money back for the faulty pump
How has the refinish job held up? I spoke with a guy from Wenonah and he warned against this type of complete restoration, but didn’t have a better suggestion. And Wenonah does not do repairs or restoration for you. So I want to go ahead with your method. But I would like to hear how she’s holding up. Your work looks great!
Now, just short of 2 years since this was done and video posted, holding up very well. I am pleased. Have done 1-3 trips to BWCA of 5-10 days each year since with another planned in about a month. In addition, day trips to local lakes/flat water every season as well. Have hit a few rocks, so a few minor scratches as is to be expected, but I try when possible to 'baby' my boats. I do keep my canoes in my garage, suspended from ceiling with rope/pulley systems, so very little exposure to weather or UV when not on trips. May need to put another coat of UV protection/Epifanes boat varnish in a year or two; don't know how to tell when it is time to do so. Probably will just do it to be sure I have good UV protection.
Have noted other suggestions/critiques in other comments below and, if I do this again in 21 years (keeping to my 'every 23 year re-coat' schedule), I would do a better job and likely do some things differently. I still would NOT use the pumps with resin and hardener given my experience. If patching a hole/major damage in hull, would use fiberglass cloth patch and likely polyester resin, but I hope I never put a hole all the way through my boat. For my re-coating purposes, epoxy resin worked well and is holding up so far.
I followed all of your instructions to a t , down to the help of my dogs. Probably the most critical part. And now my canoe looks awesome. It was in rough shape with some deep scratches when I bought it from an outfitter. I’ve breathed new life into it now. It looks like it was dropped on the rocks at one time and has a large patch in the side. I want to put a patch there on the inside. I saw one video where a guy patched the inside with both Kevlar and fiberglass. What do you suggest? Is the fiberglass necessary? What is the benefit of it?
Leanne Hinke
I am no expert in patching holes in canoes and have never done/tried that. I have seen some good TH-cam videos on this subject, though. If patch that you say is there is on outside and looks good, not sure additional patch on inside would be needed, though. In addition to info on the internet, you may want to call Wenonah factory (or other manufacturer) to seek advice.
10/04/20: Just an update.
Just returned from another BWCA trip yesterday. My Sundowner continues to serve me well. Epoxy has held up well and, despite a few more scratches/normal wear and tear, looks good. Hope to get a few more good years of use from this canoe. Hope to post TH-cam video of this most recent trip to my TH-cam channel. Look there for nice video showing this canoe in action from last year’s trip to Quetico Falls Chain area.
Thank you for your reply Eric very helpful video
About to restore my Holy Cow 16 1/2 foot Kevlar canoe that has been inside and outside stored ( and never used yet!) just to make it shiny and new again!
Hello Jeff. I too just got the same canoe recently. In addition to oxidization, mine has 2 stress crack/soft areas that need to be beefed up. I sent a note to Holy Cow asking for any product suggestions they might have. I believe our boats are Kevlar with a gel coat final layer. I need to learn more about how to patch and refinish these materials. Let me know how to reach you and I will share anything that I learn along the way. Good luck on your restoration.
Regards, Steve
Second coat could have been added when almost dry (still minimally tacky) and excellent bond occurs. Never had a pump fail with 6 boats made/fiberglassed.(WEST System and MAS)... I own a 92 Sundowner! Did you know that is the name of a horse!
Sue how long before first coat becomes tacky to apply second and final coat? I’m refinishing a 1981 sundowner. Thanks
Great job Eric
It's wise to use multiple rags and lots of acetone. Acetone is so darn volatile that it can dissolve oils and grease--then flash off so quickly that it redeposits on the surface
I've used WEST system for years and never had a pump failure. Certainly the large capacity professional pumps are bullet proof. Possibly they have recently cheapened up the small kits that they sell to amateurs. That happens when the bean counters take control of a company 🙄🙄🙄
did it last?
Will be 6 years next month. Canoe going strong. Have 2 BWCA trips planned for this summer. Some usual/typical 'wear and tear' scratches, but coat I did in this video has held up nicely.
How much epoxy resin do you end up using ?
Repolied to this once previously but don't see that my reply was posted.
I ordered the West System 105 resin in the 32 fl oz can with the 207 hardener in the 10.6 fl oz can. Place I bought these (Jamestown Distributors) sells these in a set; just enough hardener in the can for the volume of resin (assuming you mix in proper ratio). Again, if I were to do it over, given my bad experience with the pump malfunctioning, I would NOT buy the pumps but simply mix in small, disposable plastic cups. Keep it simple (and reduce risk of something going wrong).
That amount of resin and hardener easily did my canoe repair and I had about 1/4 of the volume of resin and hardener left over at the end.
@@EricREvans q
Thank you sir for sharing.
Good video - thanks.
I watched this while taking a massive dump!