Man I did it the hard way lol. I didn’t remove my lower control arm or my header lol. I had a stock header at the time but I just disconnected the cat from the downpipe. I left the downpipe. If it wasn’t my daily and I wasn’t battling time, I definitely would’ve taken more off to make it easier
Hey so I’m changing my rack and pinion and I drained out the transfer assembly and put everything back together but I don’t know where to put back the oil, can you help please?
How can I replace the Power Steering Rack Seal Kit for 1st Generation Honda CRV (1997 - 2001 Honda CRV RD1)? There’s excessive play in the steering system. The steering wheel is loose, “has play in it”; ATF is leaking from the steering rack.
I've got a 97 Honda CRV there's no fluid leaking but what causes the rack to be Berry spongy when you turn wheel left or right really quick feels like the car is floating in the wheels are going to collapse under it
I have a 97 CRV what are the signs of rack going bad it's not leaking anywhere but steering is really loose and spongy feeling also where the coupler is coming out of the column there is play that must be signs of something going bad any information would be helpful thanks
Did you order straight from Detroit axle or Amazon? Is it still holding up? Did you completely flush fluid etc and make sure to use Honda compliant ps fluid?
Yes sir I've got a 97 CRV right side of rack and pinion starting to leak was watching your videos was wondering what is the best brand of rack to get on Market any advice thank you
Anybody else out there have a say hi mileage 97 Honda CRV I have 238 000 on it do all the maintenance myself hopefully the engine will last maybe well over 300,000 anybody out there have one one more miles than me let me know
I have a 98 crv and the guy I bought it from smashed the hard metal line to the middle of the rack, can I get to it to undo it without dropping everything?
It would be really tough I would say honestly the easier path would be to just drop the rack that way you can get access to everything clean and clear.
@@crv_tom Update. I just dropped rack bolts and used a flare crows foot and got the line out and replaced. Its working other than I have pump growl, so will try to reseal the pump next.
I have a 1997 Honda CRV have all new suspension components as far as inner and outer tie rods car has 235000 miles on it rack is not leaking but has very excessive play and sloppiness can you give me any advice on what to look for as I don't know if I should just replace the rack and everything else steering is very loose and spongy could you possibly tell me what to look for any help would be greatly appreciated the four I start throwing a bunch of parts in money into into car
If you replaced all that most likely I would say the rack is probably getting worn out and old that's a lot of miles but they generally last a pretty good time if they've been taken care of I would definitely start with maybe taking it straight to a Honda dealership to do the alignment and they can really take a look at see what's going on.
@@crv_tom thanks for your advice save me a little time instead of throwing Parts into it I have all new suspension ball joints everything being the year of the car it runs great I did all the other motor maintenance Onnit
@@crv_tom let me rephrase that about my 97 I have all new upper and lower control arms and ball joints have not installed yet maybe I should to see if that's the problem before I jump into install a new rack
Yes just confirmed the rack is getting weak big time has fluid leak and right side boot how much of a pain in the ass is it to change one of those I have a 97 crv I love the car it has 238000 runs great
In my video it pretty much explains the just of what you got to do it's not too bad as long as you get a date and set aside to do it and not a lot of rust.
I have had good luck with the Detroit Axle one not everything of theirs people have had good luck with but they have done good for me so far but that or definitely an oem one if you could get your hands on it.
So far I would say my only complaint is it doesn't feel as smooth as OEM of course but it does a damn good job it's not bad by any means. I drive it every day and it has held up nice no leaks and no problems to report here so far! I just suggest replacing all of your bushings related to it when you do the job.
Man I'm on this job right now. Ended up finding myself here because I'm going through what you must've gone through... So I've got the driveline exhaust and transfer case off. (I had to resort to it). But I still couldn't get the rack out. I removed motor mounts to create space. That did nothing. I don't personally think removing those did anything. But it's another thing I found online. I digress, the rear mount came off and is broken as shit. Now I'm doing a couple jobs until the part gets here. Then I can continue. But what would you recommend to remove the rack? You said sway bar and sub frame but I'm on an incline in a driveway. (owner insisted) I've got two rear tires still on. But still was wondering about that. I couldn't do it until I got the mount in but yeah. Any thought at all is very very appreciated. This job is savage. Lol
Shit man sorry brother I just saw this I get a lot of comments between social media so it's hard to keep up have you got this off yet and if so if you have an Instagram or Facebook find me on there it's easier to message.
I didn't think so, but I do know not to turn steering column or it can mess up the clock spring which can cause a lot of other issues. Thanks man, lots of help...
I don't understand why people are removing their exhaust and transfer case I literally got my rack opinion out by taking the gearbox off the top and sliding it straight out
CRV Tom I have a 97 Honda CRV my rack is leaking a little bit but if these things get wore out is that why the car wanders all over the road and the steering so sloppy ball joints control arms and everything else has been replaced
First thing is you have to make sure if you haven't already that you have a good alignment from a good shop to align the vehicle the tow and everything and that your tires are good cuz that can cause drift, but if that's all good then definitely the rack is starting to go, also make sure you check your control arm bushings but usually really bad drift is cause from a bad alignment or definitely the rack.
@@crv_tom okay thanks good year couldn't do it they couldn't realign the back I bought aftermarket adjusters for camera and tow going to install those hopefully they can get it right everything else is good except front rack is starting to leak and on Jack's I can take wheels and move them also when I drive over the yellow lines on the road it grabs the wheel and pulls the car that could also be the rack doing that also I don't know any advice or answers would be helpful
@@crv_tom I know they could not align the rear wheels that's why I bought aftermarket tow and Camber adjusters hoping that will correct the problem because the tires are only making very little contact in the back and wearing them out I could be steering the vehicle that way
@@crv_tom it still has original ball joints for $230,000 mi for a 97 I'm going to change those out also was wondering if anybody had a good recommendation on CV axles I've gotten them twice from O'Reilly and they are junk
Yes sir it is up for sale check out my Instagram @crv_tom. It is not a complete kit though you would have to source some bolts because I use some of the bolts for my new kit.
That’s a good video, however you can SAVE yourself a lot of time and simply remove the worm drive housing (where the steering shaft sits) and the hydraulic lines and slide the rack out with out having to remove the exhaust, swaybay, rear drive shaft and assembly.
Was reading your reply on your experience changing a power steering rack on a 97 Honda CRV have that fear of jack stands and hydraulic jack doing it in my driveway myself I know I can I know mechanics charge a lot
You dont have to remove the header from the engine just the lower pipe andnif some thing gone wrong just replace those foxed stud by regular bolts of ourse you meed to cut those stud, and then drill a holenthe size of the cutted stud and replace with bolts and nut.
Ha I’m in the middle of this. It’s no simple task on a 24 year old vehicle (or 20+) by any means. I’m mainly on this job as I have to replace subframe due to rust (lower control arm rearward cavity for that bushing is shot on the subframe). Chicago/midwest winters! And on the ground I’ll add…I agree with @crv_tom- it’s a pain in the ass. First honest opinion I’ve came across. Also when ya have to work on in increments of time here and there. It sucks. I’m finally close now. I see you took inner tie rods off. I wasn’t trying to but that’d get mine out now. I have it all disconnected but still have right inner and outer tie rods on and left inner. Transfer case is downward only for me now. It seems to be a fight getting all the way out. I was trying to do rack and pinon first then subframe but it appears after your vid and another one I can remove whole subframe assembly with rack and pinon ?
@crv_tom good to know we can all share our experiences on this chat and use each other tricks or ideas to our own precaution I don't doubt no one here props to us all in the auto industry guys keep up the good work all our customers are happy to have us work on their car/truck.
Nice run down as I'm going manual on my awd civic tyvm 😊
Man I did it the hard way lol. I didn’t remove my lower control arm or my header lol. I had a stock header at the time but I just disconnected the cat from the downpipe. I left the downpipe. If it wasn’t my daily and I wasn’t battling time, I definitely would’ve taken more off to make it easier
Hey so I’m changing my rack and pinion and I drained out the transfer assembly and put everything back together but I don’t know where to put back the oil, can you help please?
How can I replace the Power Steering Rack Seal Kit for 1st Generation Honda CRV (1997 - 2001 Honda CRV RD1)? There’s excessive play in the steering system. The steering wheel is loose, “has play in it”; ATF is leaking from the steering rack.
At that point it is better to just replace the whole rack once the seal has gone bad.
I've got a 97 Honda CRV there's no fluid leaking but what causes the rack to be Berry spongy when you turn wheel left or right really quick feels like the car is floating in the wheels are going to collapse under it
I have a 97 CRV what are the signs of rack going bad it's not leaking anywhere but steering is really loose and spongy feeling also where the coupler is coming out of the column there is play that must be signs of something going bad any information would be helpful thanks
Did you order straight from Detroit axle or Amazon? Is it still holding up? Did you completely flush fluid etc and make sure to use Honda compliant ps fluid?
I ordered it through eBay completely drained the fluid and of course I use Honda power steering fluid and I still have it working fine till this day.
Yes sir I've got a 97 CRV right side of rack and pinion starting to leak was watching your videos was wondering what is the best brand of rack to get on Market any advice thank you
The DetroitAxle one did fine by me in both my 2000 and my 99 CRV I never had an issue with it.
Anybody else out there have a say hi mileage 97 Honda CRV I have 238 000 on it do all the maintenance myself hopefully the engine will last maybe well over 300,000 anybody out there have one one more miles than me let me know
I have a 98 crv and the guy I bought it from smashed the hard metal line to the middle of the rack, can I get to it to undo it without dropping everything?
It would be really tough I would say honestly the easier path would be to just drop the rack that way you can get access to everything clean and clear.
@@crv_tom Update. I just dropped rack bolts and used a flare crows foot and got the line out and replaced. Its working other than I have pump growl, so will try to reseal the pump next.
Thanks for making the vido/ I need to replace the rack and pinion in my Gen 1 CRV. I wondering about how to drop subframe on this car.
I have a 1997 Honda CRV have all new suspension components as far as inner and outer tie rods car has 235000 miles on it rack is not leaking but has very excessive play and sloppiness can you give me any advice on what to look for as I don't know if I should just replace the rack and everything else steering is very loose and spongy could you possibly tell me what to look for any help would be greatly appreciated the four I start throwing a bunch of parts in money into into car
If you replaced all that most likely I would say the rack is probably getting worn out and old that's a lot of miles but they generally last a pretty good time if they've been taken care of I would definitely start with maybe taking it straight to a Honda dealership to do the alignment and they can really take a look at see what's going on.
@@crv_tom thanks for your advice save me a little time instead of throwing Parts into it I have all new suspension ball joints everything being the year of the car it runs great I did all the other motor maintenance Onnit
@@crv_tom let me rephrase that about my 97 I have all new upper and lower control arms and ball joints have not installed yet maybe I should to see if that's the problem before I jump into install a new rack
Yes just confirmed the rack is getting weak big time has fluid leak and right side boot how much of a pain in the ass is it to change one of those I have a 97 crv I love the car it has 238000 runs great
In my video it pretty much explains the just of what you got to do it's not too bad as long as you get a date and set aside to do it and not a lot of rust.
Do you recommend a part or brand for the rack and pinion on gen 1 crv?
I have had good luck with the Detroit Axle one not everything of theirs people have had good luck with but they have done good for me so far but that or definitely an oem one if you could get your hands on it.
@@crv_tom thanks much for replying back to me
hey man great video, where did you get that header from
1320performance.com
It’s been three months. Have you driven it much? How is rack and pinion holding up?
So far I would say my only complaint is it doesn't feel as smooth as OEM of course but it does a damn good job it's not bad by any means. I drive it every day and it has held up nice no leaks and no problems to report here so far! I just suggest replacing all of your bushings related to it when you do the job.
Man I'm on this job right now. Ended up finding myself here because I'm going through what you must've gone through...
So I've got the driveline exhaust and transfer case off. (I had to resort to it). But I still couldn't get the rack out. I removed motor mounts to create space. That did nothing. I don't personally think removing those did anything. But it's another thing I found online.
I digress, the rear mount came off and is broken as shit. Now I'm doing a couple jobs until the part gets here. Then I can continue. But what would you recommend to remove the rack? You said sway bar and sub frame but I'm on an incline in a driveway. (owner insisted) I've got two rear tires still on. But still was wondering about that. I couldn't do it until I got the mount in but yeah. Any thought at all is very very appreciated. This job is savage. Lol
Shit man sorry brother I just saw this I get a lot of comments between social media so it's hard to keep up have you got this off yet and if so if you have an Instagram or Facebook find me on there it's easier to message.
Don't you have to disconnect the airbag as well? Jw.. I'm getting ready to replace mine..
You do not.
But if your worried about anything being wired just disconnect your negative battery terminal and you'll be good either way.
I didn't think so, but I do know not to turn steering column or it can mess up the clock spring which can cause a lot of other issues. Thanks man, lots of help...
Also, mine is a 2000, would that make a difference? Its not all wheel drive either.
No in fact actually I'll make it a little bit easier because you won't have the drive shaft in the way LOL
watched another video you do not have to remove all that you can get it out between the cat and and the manifold pipe
I don't understand why people are removing their exhaust and transfer case I literally got my rack opinion out by taking the gearbox off the top and sliding it straight out
Make a video on it!
CRV Tom I have a 97 Honda CRV my rack is leaking a little bit but if these things get wore out is that why the car wanders all over the road and the steering so sloppy ball joints control arms and everything else has been replaced
First thing is you have to make sure if you haven't already that you have a good alignment from a good shop to align the vehicle the tow and everything and that your tires are good cuz that can cause drift, but if that's all good then definitely the rack is starting to go, also make sure you check your control arm bushings but usually really bad drift is cause from a bad alignment or definitely the rack.
@@crv_tom okay thanks good year couldn't do it they couldn't realign the back I bought aftermarket adjusters for camera and tow going to install those hopefully they can get it right everything else is good except front rack is starting to leak and on Jack's I can take wheels and move them also when I drive over the yellow lines on the road it grabs the wheel and pulls the car that could also be the rack doing that also I don't know any advice or answers would be helpful
@@crv_tom I know they could not align the rear wheels that's why I bought aftermarket tow and Camber adjusters hoping that will correct the problem because the tires are only making very little contact in the back and wearing them out I could be steering the vehicle that way
@@crv_tom it still has original ball joints for $230,000 mi for a 97 I'm going to change those out also was wondering if anybody had a good recommendation on CV axles I've gotten them twice from O'Reilly and they are junk
What's the real telltale sign that my rack-and-pinion is wearing out or going out I see no leak except in a power steering hose and it's very small
Are you planning to sell sub drop kit?
Yes sir it is up for sale check out my Instagram @crv_tom. It is not a complete kit though you would have to source some bolts because I use some of the bolts for my new kit.
Thanks
That’s a good video, however you can SAVE yourself a lot of time and simply remove the worm drive housing (where the steering shaft sits) and the hydraulic lines and slide the rack out with out having to remove the exhaust, swaybay, rear drive shaft and assembly.
Was reading your reply on your experience changing a power steering rack on a 97 Honda CRV have that fear of jack stands and hydraulic jack doing it in my driveway myself I know I can I know mechanics charge a lot
You dont have to remove the header from the engine just the lower pipe andnif some thing gone wrong just replace those foxed stud by regular bolts of ourse you meed to cut those stud, and then drill a holenthe size of the cutted stud and replace with bolts and nut.
😶🧐
Lol dude it's a simple fix as long as you csn get all bolts out it ain't bad man cheers
🤟🏼
Ha I’m in the middle of this. It’s no simple task on a 24 year old vehicle (or 20+) by any means. I’m mainly on this job as I have to replace subframe due to rust (lower control arm rearward cavity for that bushing is shot on the subframe). Chicago/midwest winters! And on the ground I’ll add…I agree with @crv_tom- it’s a pain in the ass. First honest opinion I’ve came across. Also when ya have to work on in increments of time here and there. It sucks. I’m finally close now. I see you took inner tie rods off. I wasn’t trying to but that’d get mine out now. I have it all disconnected but still have right inner and outer tie rods on and left inner. Transfer case is downward only for me now. It seems to be a fight getting all the way out. I was trying to do rack and pinon first then subframe but it appears after your vid and another one I can remove whole subframe assembly with rack and pinon ?
I've done numerous especially working with rust
@crv_tom good to know we can all share our experiences on this chat and use each other tricks or ideas to our own precaution I don't doubt no one here props to us all in the auto industry guys keep up the good work all our customers are happy to have us work on their car/truck.
@@ososcribww I see. Well I hear ya then. Probs becomes rather routine after a first go or two at it👍🏼. Just got mine out! Onto the sub frame now.
Also you said you would put a link to that Instagram? I was curious about that
Hey brother remind me what was it sorry it gets very busy trying to keep track on so many platforms lol
I'll sell mine before I do that much work to my crv.
It's definitely some work to put in but if it's in good shape it's definitely worth it in the long run.
Dude you scared me. Too much