Just did this to a tee.. worked perfectly. My brakes were super squeaky before.. nothing now 🤘👍🤘 Way easier than what i was anticipating. Now i know next time it’s easy peasy
This vidoe was awesome super helpful. I am having this exact noise issue in my 2018 GT350 with less than 10,000 miles and am going to replace the break pads. I have watched another video and they were swapping rotors and DO NOT talk about the noise or clean any of the other contact surfaces while the pads were out of the car. I am finally at a place in lifr to purchace a high performance car. I have been to 2 different dealers (not impressed at all) and they do not treat my car with the same care I will. Thanks again, Dave
Bro the fact you think three steps ahead, articulate yourself real well, and take OCD pride in your work. Made me sub and to mention you pass along a slew of knowledge. 🍻.. thx
Another great video I agree with everything that you’re doing on your car. One additional note, I would take 300 or 400 grit sand paper on a DA and buff up on both sides, those rotors to put on a nondirectional finish and to cut the glaze. You’ll get microscopic grooves like a record which will push your pad around at a high frequency and cause the squeal. You cleaned up the matting surface on your pads but not on the surface of the rotor. After deglazing the brake rotors wash them with dishwashing detergent to lift up any metal filings or debris from the sanding discs. Then quickly clean them and dry them before flash rust sets in. I would also use the copper anti-seize on your metal retainer spring where it’s worn. A truly extraordinary that video that is well done, thank you! 🇺🇸👍
When we installing the rotor a very light coating of your copper antisize on your flange behind the rotor would be a great idea to block the dissimilar metals from attacking each other. Especially if you plan on winter driving your car through salt. Unfortunately our cars have lots of the dissimilar metals mated together. So, within a very short time salt will make sure that none of these pieces will come apart, shall we say peacefully? I would hate to be taking a sledgehammer to break the rotor free from the hub of the caliper pins out of the caliper now swollen with corrosion from salt. It’s why I could never see salt driving GT 350.
Jay Cogan i stopped sanding rotors down way back i usually change them once per year with pads on my modified cars, the rotors on the shelby are not grooved at all i think the issue on this car is the spring and pins binding from corrosion mostly. im so glad the car is quiet now it was making me nuts that i shot this video friday night after a long week and at 9pm i was exhausted doing it that late but it had to get done.
You're absolutely right about wheel cleaners causing corrosion. I used a wheel cleaner that changes color when it reacts with brake dust, and my wheel bolts (I have a BMW) were corroded. And I only took off the wheels like 6 months earlier. Took me a while to loosen those bolts. Luckily none of them snapped. Luckily the brakes werent affected because the caliper bolts are protected with rubber cover.
Please visit my website and learn more about the Auto Fanatic Wheel Cleaner I developed specifically for these issues it is the safest system you can use and you eliminate all corrosion issues . www.auto-fanatic.com
All these are good ideas. Also, the pads that come with these cars create so much dust I have had great luck with changing them out for Powerstop Ceramic pads. Less dust and better stopping and when I replace the pads, I do all this lubrication. Powerstop also provides new hardware. Also lube the spots where the pads rub on the caliper. Did this on my C7 and it worked wonders. Will do on my GT 350 as well. As far as tools I have a cordless Dremel with wire brush and it saves a lot on manual work. I also use a stainless wire brush (toothbrush size).
Pretty much the same process we went through when I work for MB for brake squeal complaints. The only real differences being we would hang the calipers using S hooks (as we used lifts), we would generally rough/scotch bright the rotors with a wheel (mainly just to clean then and provide a new mating surface - not really looking to take material off, more akin to a honing of a cylinder when putting in new rings as when you sand the pads in you should rebed them to the rotors), and we would "bake" in what was basically a graphite/alcohol solution into the pads (heating the pads with a hand torch, lathering the stuff on, and letting it soak in). From my experience that would generally help eliminate the noise longer, but I wouldn't really recommend it for performance pads/rotors (so not really relevant for this - but helpful if you are going through this on a different car maybe?). One thing you didn't mention, that really I think is implied but also should be said, is you can (and should) go through this same process when putting on new pads and rotors (except maybe sanding down the pads). No since in just slapping some pads in and coming back and doing this later. We did this (or, at least I did) on all brake jobs and never had a car come back in for noise complaints after doing brakes (which, is way more common then you would think). Fun fact, on the Maclaren SLR the procedure from Mercedes Benz for pad / rotor replacement, to properly bed in the pads, was to drive the car up to 120 mph and slam on the brakes (I think they said use full braking force or something to that effect) and come to a complete stop. You were to repeat this 2 - 3 times (one after another, as you were trying to generate lots of heat very quickly), and you knew the pads were bed in when they caught fire and flames could be seen from outside the wheel well. That was always fun, because if you have ever done new rotors and pads on a car yourself, the first few brake applications can be a bit sketchy (as far as stopping distance) - and these were no exception to that. But, I digress...
Cool feedback many of my friends work for MB so i know all the nitty gritty on that stuff, AMG are notorious for noises. I do like their brake paste i get it for free from my friend who is the parts manager at the dealer. I always replace pads with rotors, im so anal with this stuff. I do have the 3M rotor surface discs in the shop and there is a local guy who we used many times on higher end cars that wet stone grinds the rotors perfectly, DCM tech makes the machine and its like putting a brand new rotor on for guys who are cheap and don't want to buy new ones. I considered buying this machine but no room for it in the shop and people around here are so cheap they will drive their brakes until the rotor crumbles off on high end cars, such a joke how people drive high end cars and fail to maintain them, all living beyond their means
Based on your process, I had a distinct suspicion that might be the case. I mean, at the end of the day, it is a sound, tried and true process and it works, and that is what is important. Thanks for making a video and sharing it. You explained it very well, and I suspect it will help a lot of people who decide to try it out.
Oh yeah, definitely not. No offense meant to anyone, but they are just going to slap some pads in as quickly as possible it and roll it on down the road. If that isn't the case with your dealer, you have some special relationship with them or they are far and away the exception rather than the rule. This is not something you should expect from them. Not saying that Ford dealerships do bad work, they typically don't work to that level (not an assumption, just what my experience has been from both sides of the counter, so to speak). That is just the nature of the business and the world in which we live in.
I've owned my car for 2 1/2 years and the brakes have squealed since day one. However, I found a different solution. I ran my first track event last Monday and, like magic, noise is gone.
I actually had quite the opposite, my squeal worsened after my track event. I have another event coming up in July, I will be sure to run through this process prior to heading back out on VIR. I sure would like to hear of some suggestions for alternative wheel cleaning if you found one.
Nice vid and thank you for walking us through the process. Back in the day I did all my own brake jobs and the anti-seize compound was a must!! It's too bad that this level of craftsmanship is no longer around at the dealership level, as they are (and not just Ford dealers - most of them) just going to replace parts as it's faster/cheaper. Unfortunately, just replacing rotors/pads will not guarantee your brakes won't begin to squeal again. I only have 900 miles on my new GT350 (1 month old) and it's squealing horribly so will try to more aggressively bed them in and add the anti-seize if necessary. Thx again great vid!!
Brad double check your wheel cleaners as you see the corrosion i show, i feel this is the main cause of the noise on this particular car. I honestly do not like the design of the caliper pad retainer spring, i prefer the design Porsche and GM and others use. I also can not believe how light of a spring rate the retaining spring is compared to other brake calipers ive worked on. give this a shot i am sure it will work for your car.
Another killer video ......... I just turned 5000 miles and they have not started squealing yet .......... but I do not use wheel cleaner either. Just dish soap and a Speed Master wheel brush as I do not let mine get real dirty.
No. I have the collinite 476S which I truly love as this stuff last quite a while. As for the C.Quartz, it was on sale and had very positive reviews. Will see! My stripes are black so they show everything.
Hey....nice vid. BTW your video framing is so much better than your earlier videos, I could actually see what you were doing during the whole process. And what wheel cleaner do you suggest?
diff camera and edit software and tripod, the head strap SUCKS to stay in frame, trying my best with the limited time i have to do this stuff. Wheel cleaner I am using now is the Griots Original and Chemical Guys Diablo and Sticky Citrus. Im glad I was able to show everyone how corroded all the hardware got so quickly. Some owners said right off the dealer lots their cars had squeal and I am certain the dealers prep department use harsh acid wheel cleaners and if cars sat outside in inventory long with any acid cleaner residue it would quickly cause corrosion of the moving parts.
Every single brake manufacturer in the industry recommends against using anti-seize on braking systems under any conditions. There are numerous reasons for this. Research as you see fit. Please use a high quality brake grease instead.
Unfortunately, I just ordered it before messaging you. I cannot cancel online so I will try to call on Monday to cancel if it is not too late. At the same time, I had been using Detailers Pride too and that stuff will choke the hell out of you if not careful. Hard to say if I will have the same problem because I do not leave any wheel products on that long- one wheel at the time and rinse Immediately. BTW, I used a new product for the first time called Magna Sponge in place of the clay and was pleasantly surprised. This seemed to do the job giving my car is not in that bad of shape. It's rectangle and like the fact, you can keep it right against the outer edge of the stripes without working about damaging or getting under the edges. Planning to use C. Quartz ceramic coating. The stripes are a nightmare to keep looking nice!. Thanks
you can return the cleaner don't worry about that. If the cleaner chokes you and they say its safe that is nothing but BS to sell you more of it because it will harm you over time. its been proven that even household cleaners lead to COPD. Have you tried the Collinite 915 and V07, I have white stripes and nothing sticks to them. you should give it a try before you spend the money on the ceramic.
I am late to this only because I just purchased my gt350. This brake squeak is obnoxiously ear piercing. I have owned a camaro 1LE and a widebody challenger and I have never had this issue till now. I will be trading this damn thing in soon as possible. I’ve changed the pads to hawk 5.0 and it helped minimally but not enough.
I take it mostly everyone watching owns a car with big brakes, but if you have a single piston setup with smaller pads, you can chamfer the edges of pad material by sanding the sharp edges (90°) to round it out. That way the pads still function but leading edge on rotor is smooth. Therefore less brake noise. Also sand down the outer edge of rotor just past braking surface. It builds up rust and rubs against the pad.
Great video - you're THE source on these cars. Do you have any feeling now as to what was actually causing or what fixed the issue? Or do you simply recommend taking the blanket solution in this video?
Hi Fanatic. Really enjoy watching your videos. I did notice in this video you mentioned saying that Adams wheel cleaner was causing some corrosion but in another video, you really like the way it cleans. Did you have a change of heart with this cleaner? If so what do you recommend for wheel cleaning?
Yes i really liked the Adams because it did not smell as bad as the SONAX but after a few months using it and what it did to my brake hardware and driveway I stopped using it.Plus the smell was also bothering me. I am using the Original Griots now in my Solo and Sure Shot sprayer. I had no idea the color changing cleaners would cause issues but now I do and want to share with you guys to be careful. I have to suggest to not be lazy even to myself and agitate than use a spray and rinse cleaner that may cause issues.
Hey Auto Fanatic, I think I found the tool you are talking about. It looks like a pair of vise-grips with with the spring compression tips on it. Is that the tool you are telling me to use? i would really appreciate you doing a video on the back brakes. :) (OTC 6722 - Brake Spring Locking Plier)
Is there a reason why you didn't turn the wheel so it is easier to get to the bolts? Just curious. Also, do you have a video of changing out the rear pads? Thank you
Hello Auto Fanatic, I used this video to do the front brakes on my GT350 and it seems to have worked. I need to do the back brakes now and need to know how to remove the back brake calibers. The parking brake spring is in the way of the top bolt. Can show how to remove the spring to gain access to the top bolt? Thanks!
The pins on my Brembo's on my 2007 Subaru STi are held in with R clips on the inside of the inner side of the callipers (front and rear).....I thought all Brembo pins were held in this way. Gave my rear brakes a very similar service recently, didn't re-face the pads though.....one for next time!
Replace the stock dusty/ noisey Bermbos pads with ceramic pads and no more dust and noise. Hey, I thought you couldn't use torque to yield bolts but once?
I went to clean up my brakes and found that Ford states that the caliper bolts are stretch to torque. That means Ford wants those bolts replaced every time you take them loose. They are also not cheap. $15 bucks each I saw somewhere. I see your not installing new ones. Do you feel confident reusing them? I'm not being a smart ass, Just really want to know.
This is correct. ARP sells a stud kit for the GT350 front calipers that many upgrade to. Makes things a lot easier, especially for those that do a lot of work on the track.
Bill Kroll lucky me on my challenger u don't have to do that. only the 2 pins and I think 1 bigger pin. taking of the clipper only for changing the rotor. brembo 6 pistons. BIGBOY brakes.
Thanks a lot for this video. We have 650 miles on our Shelby and the squeal is getting bad I will make this happen soon. I use no wheel cleaner. Dish rag and soap only. Is it possible that tire spray is causing it? How was Track Attack? We plan to go next spring.
dont use tire spray it will destroy the caliper anodize finish quickly, it might have a relation to the noise not sure but it seems to be an issue almost everyone has. after taking the car apart i do prefer other caliper designs in regards to retaining pins and springs. My favorite is the Stoptech ST60 which I have on other cars in my collection, its just a better and easier to service design which anything OEM will have limitations due to cost cutting like the stupid anodize finish they gave us.
Hi, i have a ford C max 1.6 TDCI Diesel Titanium x with 17" wheel in Turkey. Is there any brembo disc&caliper solution to replace my car's brakes ? If it is exist, what is the part number of these ? BR.
Perhaps take old rotors and spray different wheel cleaners on them, along with a control using water only to see if the wheel cleaners are causing more corrosion than normal wear and tear?
too much work its def the color changing wheel cleaners as i just started using those this past year and have nothing but issues with noises on all my cars past and present.
Order was cancelled... what wheel cleaner do you recommend for wheels that do not require serious cleaning? I keep my car in pretty good shape so a strong cleaner is not usually needed.
get the Griots original, works great and it wont kill you, Cyber Monday should have these on sale and free shipping. Use the Solo or Sure Shot Sprayers they work awesome and the Sure Shot will give it good flow to agitate on it's own. check my sprayer video for details on those.
Auto Fanatic curious why you haven’t gone with Caliperfexion studs? Saves the threads in the aluminum hubs and when used with the optional extensions it makes brake jobs a breeze.
sidewayzking13 i did this job at 10pm fri night no time for fancy parts delivery, no need to change studs il be using new oem bolts once i swap calipers soon enough.
Next time you remove them use some compressed air and blow the hub threads out. I removed my caliper bolts once to install Ti backing plates for track duty and I was amazed of how much aluminum pieces blew out of the threads. Glad I had already purchased the studs as I will be working on the brakes a lot during track season. I can’t see the threads lasting long. Rather by the “fancy parts” instead of new hubs eventually.
did you use an impact gun to remove your original bolts? I can make those studs in one of my shops easily, maybe il see what cost per unit is, i think $139 is expensive for 4 studs and nuts we can turn those easily and sell for less, but the market is small i am sure.
Nope. Breaker bar just like in your video. 800 miles on the car and it was the first and only removal of those bolts. If you can make them even better! I just chalked it up to preventive maintenance. The stud extension are worth the price of admission imo also. You remove the nuts off the studs, thread on the extensions and slide the caliper back onto the extensions allowing the caliper to hang for pad/rotor changes.
If the 136 ft*lb torque setting is that critical, how much was the resistance from the partially set-up Locktite Blue stealing from the clamping load that the torque is indirectly measuring?Thanks for the info on wheel cleaners. Haven't used them before, now I know I never will.
considering it was 10PM on a Fri night and i had a long week it was not easy to get those bolts in and out. Going back in was much easier for the bolts. There was oxidized corrosion from the wheel cleaners, I couldn't show that on camera but when I got my spotlight in there I saw it. If you listen carefully you can hear it as I undo the bolts. I used a wire brush the clean out the hole, the same ones I use to clean my spray guns and other equipment. I am going to make 17-4 studs in my shop soon enough. I still prefer the GM Brembo brakes for pad swaps, remove the middle bridge and bingo no caliper removal, I think Ford used this design for caliper stiffness. Also very surprised how small the pistons are for total piston area, My Stoptech ST60 and AP Racing and Brembos on my other cars have way more piston area. Stay away from those wheel cleaners, Im sure il get hate mail from the companies selling them soon enough ha ha ha.
also the loctite i applied on the bolts did nothing for making it harder during assembly, this was a matter of 3 minutes from applying to bolt and reinstalling which is normal. much hard to remove bolts then reinstalling.
AF, I did not view the operational link inside the link I just sent. Their caliper studs are required at $139./set. Those extension sleeves only provide an extended position & support for the calipers ( about 6 inches out ) away from the rotors instead of laying them down. I don't think they provide enough room or allowable access to get the pads & springs out for your cleaning operation, do you? Oh well....Your thoughts?
these are a nice product i am considering and they are the only ones making them. I looked into making these but it isnt worth my time and effort for something so small, i would just do the studs those other pieces don't make much sense to me to be honest. they offer them in two materials i still do not know why or what the benefits are versus the other. But using these studs makes caliper removal identical to al the aftermarket big brake kits from Brembo, Stoptech etc.
Thx, AF. So their caliper bolts are better than the factory stock ones & you would recommend, but the extension sleeve bolt extensions are not really practical?
if you plan to track the car often and do pad swaps having those studs makes total sense, if not the OEM bolts are fine but are a total PITA to get out with the loctite etc. the OEM bolts cost around $27 a pair so think about the savings if you decide to pull the brakes off the car many times as Ford does recommend changing the OEM bolts each time.
@@autofanaticcars The reason why they squeal is not because of the pad surface, but due to vibration harmonic's sure clean pads will make it better, but no person who has performance brakes and rotors is going to do what your doing, in fact its about making sure that the rotors are machined, just so lightly just cleaning them and also using the copper paste anti squealing paste or rubber shims, which stops the vibrations and quieting the harmonic's and also depending on the brand of pads as well, hi end performance pads are made from a compound that reacts with heat, so the more pressure on the pads the less noises as well, which is why when you apply the brakes lightly they squeal like a stick pig cheers :) Also all race performance type rotors are not drilled only slotted, the drilled rotors will crack 100% no matter what steel is used if your going to track the car, as a daily then now you know why, its heat related the more pressure applied the less noises. :) Keep up the great work as well. :)
@@autofanaticcars oh okay cool thanks because I been running after market pads from oriellys and I can’t seem to solve that braking squeaking but I think using oriellys pads is my problem 😅😂
Incredibly informative, absolutely loved the video. Totally subscribing if you do more videos like this. If I may ask: how many miles do you have on yours, and how "bad" is that squeal? I have about 950 miles and three washes on mine (2017 GT350) and there's a squeal, but it's not terrible. Not quite at the "big bus" level of squeal. That said, I imagine it'll get worse.
it will only get worse, if you have the time do everything here and no more noise, so far its been gone ever since. Thanks for watching and Happy New Year. AF
LOL, the slide pins are on the inside of the backing plate you used the sandpaper on ,you need to clean the inside of it not the outside of it, the pins hold that plate in place and the pins hold the pads in place in the caliper, so cleaning all surfaces with brake clean is the best way and using wheel cleaning products which changes to a purple color when you use it, gets stuck on the parts as well, unless you can get a hi pressure water inside, where the pistons are to push out any products used, but hey when it rains the water will remove products anyway, its inside the caliper and if you want to keep the calipers clean, then just imagine how much people spend at dealerships to do what your doing, in fact they would just put new parts on and charge you instead of cleaning them and still not lube the parts??
mate you need to show how loud the squealing noises are before and after you have cleaned them, not just showing how to clean and put copper anti squealing paste on the piston surfaces on the pads etc. :)
if you had a 5th Gen Camaro any version they were putting stick on wheel weights on the front calipers as a bandaid to cancel out the harmonic squeal, it was the craziest thing i ever say and it did not work
simply green isnt safe on anodize calipers we found your safer with soap or a safe cleaner like Griots original, it drives me nuts why OEM use this stupid finish on brake calipers still.
yeah everyone with this car has the issue, if you can do this yourself get it done, my car has been silent since. I also did the rears for the sake of doing them. the rears take 20 min max, the fronts take a bit longer.
@@autofanaticcars I'm having a hard time removing the rear breaks. I even bought the E brake tool (the modified vise grips), but it does not work (it's to big). Do you have any other ideas on how to remove the E brake cable? Thanks!
stop using all of those color change cleaners, do the repair outlined in this video then start using diluted car wash soap for the wheels or the Griots original. the corrosion on the hardware is ridiculous from the other fancy cleaners. it ruined my blacktop on the driveway and rusted out my caliper hardware easily.
100% no more noise. I will do the same to my rears in a couple of weeks when I install my custom painted brake calipers, I am not doing the R Calipers, going to do something a bit more personalized so stay tuned, il make a multi part video series on the process.
ford recommends new bolts because they don’t trust their technicians in dealerships to install loctite and their bolts come with it on the threads already. so everyone can chill ab re using the bolts
not needed Ford just wants to sell you $40 bolts, at the track on cars we always used the same bolts and never an issue, if you use them maybe 10+ times i would say yes but with the loctite and proper torque it isn't a big deal for a few times. Ford also suggest all new hardware when you do a suspension and i know maybe 20% of guys even do this even after swapping parts multiple times.
Auto Fanatic Thanks. Great videos. I just swapped my stock pads for g-loc pads because I couldn’t take the squealing any longer. Are the p51 wheels significantly better thank the project 6gr wheels
The wheels are most likely made in the same factory in Taiwan, its a matter of style you prefer, the car does drive and react totally different with the P51 as they are super light. Cant go wrong either way I had them all in a 4 week period.
easy if you have experience mechanically, ive been doing brakes close to 30 years so yes id say easy for me, ha ha ha thanks for watching and if your car has this issue get this done.
If you find yourself doing brake work on a frequent basis, check out these caliper studs Tob came up with. Will save you from having to replace bolts and the aluminum knuckle from having the material stripped out from repeatedly undoing the bolts. caliperfexion.net/ . He's also a frequent contributor on several Mustang boards and really knows his business.
Really? Even on a W220 S-Class? My 2000 S430 squeals so loud it actually hurts my ears. The Brembo pads aren’t even that old, so I don’t know what the problem is.
Just did this to a tee.. worked perfectly. My brakes were super squeaky before.. nothing now 🤘👍🤘 Way easier than what i was anticipating. Now i know next time it’s easy peasy
This vidoe was awesome super helpful. I am having this exact noise issue in my 2018 GT350 with less than 10,000 miles and am going to replace the break pads. I have watched another video and they were swapping rotors and DO NOT talk about the noise or clean any of the other contact surfaces while the pads were out of the car. I am finally at a place in lifr to purchace a high performance car. I have been to 2 different dealers (not impressed at all) and they do not treat my car with the same care I will. Thanks again, Dave
Bro the fact you think three steps ahead, articulate yourself real well, and take OCD pride in your work. Made me sub and to mention you pass along a slew of knowledge. 🍻.. thx
thanks for watching make sure you watch my video on Brembo brake bleeding lots of great tips in that video.
Another great video I agree with everything that you’re doing on your car. One additional note, I would take 300 or 400 grit sand paper on a DA and buff up on both sides, those rotors to put on a nondirectional finish and to cut the glaze. You’ll get microscopic grooves like a record which will push your pad around at a high frequency and cause the squeal. You cleaned up the matting surface on your pads but not on the surface of the rotor. After deglazing the brake rotors wash them with dishwashing detergent to lift up any metal filings or debris from the sanding discs. Then quickly clean them and dry them before flash rust sets in. I would also use the copper anti-seize on your metal retainer spring where it’s worn. A truly extraordinary that video that is well done, thank you! 🇺🇸👍
When we installing the rotor a very light coating of your copper antisize on your flange behind the rotor would be a great idea to block the dissimilar metals from attacking each other. Especially if you plan on winter driving your car through salt. Unfortunately our cars have lots of the dissimilar metals mated together. So, within a very short time salt will make sure that none of these pieces will come apart, shall we say peacefully? I would hate to be taking a sledgehammer to break the rotor free from the hub of the caliper pins out of the caliper now swollen with corrosion from salt. It’s why I could never see salt driving GT 350.
Jay Cogan i stopped sanding rotors down way back i usually change them once per year with pads on my modified cars, the rotors on the shelby are not grooved at all i think the issue on this car is the spring and pins binding from corrosion mostly. im so glad the car is quiet now it was making me nuts that i shot this video friday night after a long week and at 9pm i was exhausted doing it that late but it had to get done.
Auto Fanatic Documenting your steps as well as you did had to be exhausting... Nice work very much appreciated!
You is the MAN!!! I have the same issue with my gt350 :( good to see these "how to videos".
You're absolutely right about wheel cleaners causing corrosion. I used a wheel cleaner that changes color when it reacts with brake dust, and my wheel bolts (I have a BMW) were corroded. And I only took off the wheels like 6 months earlier. Took me a while to loosen those bolts. Luckily none of them snapped. Luckily the brakes werent affected because the caliper bolts are protected with rubber cover.
Please visit my website and learn more about the Auto Fanatic Wheel Cleaner I developed specifically for these issues it is the safest system you can use and you eliminate all corrosion issues . www.auto-fanatic.com
All these are good ideas. Also, the pads that come with these cars create so much dust I have had great luck with changing them out for Powerstop Ceramic pads. Less dust and better stopping and when I replace the pads, I do all this lubrication. Powerstop also provides new hardware. Also lube the spots where the pads rub on the caliper. Did this on my C7 and it worked wonders. Will do on my GT 350 as well.
As far as tools I have a cordless Dremel with wire brush and it saves a lot on manual work. I also use a stainless wire brush (toothbrush size).
Pretty much the same process we went through when I work for MB for brake squeal complaints. The only real differences being we would hang the calipers using S hooks (as we used lifts), we would generally rough/scotch bright the rotors with a wheel (mainly just to clean then and provide a new mating surface - not really looking to take material off, more akin to a honing of a cylinder when putting in new rings as when you sand the pads in you should rebed them to the rotors), and we would "bake" in what was basically a graphite/alcohol solution into the pads (heating the pads with a hand torch, lathering the stuff on, and letting it soak in). From my experience that would generally help eliminate the noise longer, but I wouldn't really recommend it for performance pads/rotors (so not really relevant for this - but helpful if you are going through this on a different car maybe?).
One thing you didn't mention, that really I think is implied but also should be said, is you can (and should) go through this same process when putting on new pads and rotors (except maybe sanding down the pads). No since in just slapping some pads in and coming back and doing this later. We did this (or, at least I did) on all brake jobs and never had a car come back in for noise complaints after doing brakes (which, is way more common then you would think).
Fun fact, on the Maclaren SLR the procedure from Mercedes Benz for pad / rotor replacement, to properly bed in the pads, was to drive the car up to 120 mph and slam on the brakes (I think they said use full braking force or something to that effect) and come to a complete stop. You were to repeat this 2 - 3 times (one after another, as you were trying to generate lots of heat very quickly), and you knew the pads were bed in when they caught fire and flames could be seen from outside the wheel well. That was always fun, because if you have ever done new rotors and pads on a car yourself, the first few brake applications can be a bit sketchy (as far as stopping distance) - and these were no exception to that.
But, I digress...
Cool feedback many of my friends work for MB so i know all the nitty gritty on that stuff, AMG are notorious for noises. I do like their brake paste i get it for free from my friend who is the parts manager at the dealer. I always replace pads with rotors, im so anal with this stuff. I do have the 3M rotor surface discs in the shop and there is a local guy who we used many times on higher end cars that wet stone grinds the rotors perfectly, DCM tech makes the machine and its like putting a brand new rotor on for guys who are cheap and don't want to buy new ones. I considered buying this machine but no room for it in the shop and people around here are so cheap they will drive their brakes until the rotor crumbles off on high end cars, such a joke how people drive high end cars and fail to maintain them, all living beyond their means
Based on your process, I had a distinct suspicion that might be the case. I mean, at the end of the day, it is a sound, tried and true process and it works, and that is what is important. Thanks for making a video and sharing it. You explained it very well, and I suspect it will help a lot of people who decide to try it out.
we all know a Ford dealer will not do this for us or most dealers for that matter.
Oh yeah, definitely not. No offense meant to anyone, but they are just going to slap some pads in as quickly as possible it and roll it on down the road. If that isn't the case with your dealer, you have some special relationship with them or they are far and away the exception rather than the rule. This is not something you should expect from them. Not saying that Ford dealerships do bad work, they typically don't work to that level (not an assumption, just what my experience has been from both sides of the counter, so to speak).
That is just the nature of the business and the world in which we live in.
I've owned my car for 2 1/2 years and the brakes have squealed since day one. However, I found a different solution. I ran my first track event last Monday and, like magic, noise is gone.
you finally bed them in ha ha ha cool
I actually had quite the opposite, my squeal worsened after my track event. I have another event coming up in July, I will be sure to run through this process prior to heading back out on VIR. I sure would like to hear of some suggestions for alternative wheel cleaning if you found one.
Nice vid and thank you for walking us through the process. Back in the day I did all my own brake jobs and the anti-seize compound was a must!! It's too bad that this level of craftsmanship is no longer around at the dealership level, as they are (and not just Ford dealers - most of them) just going to replace parts as it's faster/cheaper. Unfortunately, just replacing rotors/pads will not guarantee your brakes won't begin to squeal again. I only have 900 miles on my new GT350 (1 month old) and it's squealing horribly so will try to more aggressively bed them in and add the anti-seize if necessary. Thx again great vid!!
Brad double check your wheel cleaners as you see the corrosion i show, i feel this is the main cause of the noise on this particular car. I honestly do not like the design of the caliper pad retainer spring, i prefer the design Porsche and GM and others use. I also can not believe how light of a spring rate the retaining spring is compared to other brake calipers ive worked on. give this a shot i am sure it will work for your car.
Another killer video ......... I just turned 5000 miles and they have not started squealing yet .......... but I do not use wheel cleaner either. Just dish soap and a Speed Master wheel brush as I do not let mine get real dirty.
Doskiller
No. I have the collinite 476S which I truly love as this stuff last quite a while. As for the C.Quartz, it was on sale and had very positive reviews. Will see! My stripes are black so they show everything.
Hey....nice vid. BTW your video framing is so much better than your earlier videos, I could actually see what you were doing during the whole process. And what wheel cleaner do you suggest?
diff camera and edit software and tripod, the head strap SUCKS to stay in frame, trying my best with the limited time i have to do this stuff. Wheel cleaner I am using now is the Griots Original and Chemical Guys Diablo and Sticky Citrus. Im glad I was able to show everyone how corroded all the hardware got so quickly. Some owners said right off the dealer lots their cars had squeal and I am certain the dealers prep department use harsh acid wheel cleaners and if cars sat outside in inventory long with any acid cleaner residue it would quickly cause corrosion of the moving parts.
Every single brake manufacturer in the industry recommends against using anti-seize on braking systems under any conditions. There are numerous reasons for this. Research as you see fit. Please use a high quality brake grease instead.
Unfortunately, I just ordered it before messaging you. I cannot cancel online so I will try to call on Monday to cancel if it is not too late. At the same time, I had been using Detailers Pride too and that stuff will choke the hell out of you if not careful. Hard to say if I will have the same problem because I do not leave any wheel products on that long- one wheel at the time and rinse Immediately.
BTW, I used a new product for the first time called Magna Sponge in place of the clay and was pleasantly surprised. This seemed to do the job giving my car is not in that bad of shape. It's rectangle and like the fact, you can keep it right against the outer edge of the stripes without working about damaging or getting under the edges. Planning to use C. Quartz ceramic coating. The stripes are a nightmare to keep looking nice!. Thanks
you can return the cleaner don't worry about that. If the cleaner chokes you and they say its safe that is nothing but BS to sell you more of it because it will harm you over time. its been proven that even household cleaners lead to COPD. Have you tried the Collinite 915 and V07, I have white stripes and nothing sticks to them. you should give it a try before you spend the money on the ceramic.
I need a bigger garage! thanks for the video, especially information about the wheel cleaner.
I am late to this only because I just purchased my gt350. This brake squeak is obnoxiously ear piercing. I have owned a camaro 1LE and a widebody challenger and I have never had this issue till now. I will be trading this damn thing in soon as possible. I’ve changed the pads to hawk 5.0 and it helped minimally but not enough.
I take it mostly everyone watching owns a car with big brakes, but if you have a single piston setup with smaller pads, you can chamfer the edges of pad material by sanding the sharp edges (90°) to round it out. That way the pads still function but leading edge on rotor is smooth. Therefore less brake noise. Also sand down the outer edge of rotor just past braking surface. It builds up rust and rubs against the pad.
Great video! Very detailed! How do you like those rims?
Great video - you're THE source on these cars. Do you have any feeling now as to what was actually causing or what fixed the issue? Or do you simply recommend taking the blanket solution in this video?
most wheel cleaners are the cause of the issue which was one of the targets when we created out wheel cleaner that is coming out soon
Thanks for making this detailed video and explaining this. Great video pal, much appreciated.
Good detailed video. The detail with the spring clip is key.
Glad it was helpful!
2016 mustang GT and it worked great on the brembo brakes. Its actually easier on the mustang Gt because we dont have to take the whole caliper off
Hi Fanatic. Really enjoy watching your videos. I did notice in this video you mentioned saying that Adams wheel cleaner was causing some corrosion but in another video, you really like the way it cleans. Did you have a change of heart with this cleaner? If so what do you recommend for wheel cleaning?
Yes i really liked the Adams because it did not smell as bad as the SONAX but after a few months using it and what it did to my brake hardware and driveway I stopped using it.Plus the smell was also bothering me. I am using the Original Griots now in my Solo and Sure Shot sprayer. I had no idea the color changing cleaners would cause issues but now I do and want to share with you guys to be careful. I have to suggest to not be lazy even to myself and agitate than use a spray and rinse cleaner that may cause issues.
Hey Auto Fanatic, I think I found the tool you are talking about. It looks like a pair of vise-grips with with the spring compression tips on it. Is that the tool you are telling me to use? i would really appreciate you doing a video on the back brakes. :) (OTC 6722 - Brake Spring Locking Plier)
yes that looks like the tool I have, mine is much older but it gets the job done. expensive little sucker for what it is.
Is there a reason why you didn't turn the wheel so it is easier to get to the bolts? Just curious. Also, do you have a video of changing out the rear pads? Thank you
Mine seem to be quite until they heat up. First couple of stops nothing at all then after that the low speed squeal is embarrassing almost !!!
No not almost embarrassing, it is embarrassing. Pisses me off it squeals so loud
Any reason why I can't use the motorcraft nickel antiseize lubricant? It's even higher temp rated.
Hello Auto Fanatic, I used this video to do the front brakes on my GT350 and it seems to have worked. I need to do the back brakes now and need to know how to remove the back brake calibers. The parking brake spring is in the way of the top bolt. Can show how to remove the spring to gain access to the top bolt? Thanks!
you don't need to remove the calipers to do this, you need a parking brake spring compressor tool for Ford, they cost around $100 OTC makes them
Most manufacturers just have their recommended fluids rebranded. I wonder if that MB stuff is just Copaslip?
Will do and Thanks again! Btw have you ever tried Stoner wheel cleaner?
never heard of that stuff.
The pins on my Brembo's on my 2007 Subaru STi are held in with R clips on the inside of the inner side of the callipers (front and rear).....I thought all Brembo pins were held in this way. Gave my rear brakes a very similar service recently, didn't re-face the pads though.....one for next time!
What if one retaining pin is snug and the other is loose? Is that indicative of a problem?
Replace the stock dusty/ noisey Bermbos pads with ceramic pads and no more dust and noise. Hey, I thought you couldn't use torque to yield bolts but once?
this was an early demo video i shortly installed the caliperflexion kit on the car which is highly suggested
Do you need to use the copper anti seaze or can you use the standard silver stuff?
was wondering what brand of black lug nuts are you using?
Installing a gt350 kit on an s550 GT. I'll be using the antisieze out of the gate.
I went to clean up my brakes and found that Ford states that the caliper bolts are stretch to torque. That means Ford wants those bolts replaced every time you take them loose. They are also not cheap. $15 bucks each I saw somewhere. I see your not installing new ones. Do you feel confident reusing them? I'm not being a smart ass, Just really want to know.
This is correct. ARP sells a stud kit for the GT350 front calipers that many upgrade to. Makes things a lot easier, especially for those that do a lot of work on the track.
Bill Kroll lucky me on my challenger u don't have to do that. only the 2 pins and I think 1 bigger pin. taking of the clipper only for changing the rotor. brembo 6 pistons. BIGBOY brakes.
Thanks a lot for this video. We have 650 miles on our Shelby and the squeal is getting bad I will make this happen soon. I use no wheel cleaner. Dish rag and soap only. Is it possible that tire spray is causing it? How was Track Attack? We plan to go next spring.
dont use tire spray it will destroy the caliper anodize finish quickly, it might have a relation to the noise not sure but it seems to be an issue almost everyone has. after taking the car apart i do prefer other caliper designs in regards to retaining pins and springs. My favorite is the Stoptech ST60 which I have on other cars in my collection, its just a better and easier to service design which anything OEM will have limitations due to cost cutting like the stupid anodize finish they gave us.
What's the best chemical that's safe too clean the caliper. The inside not the outside. Thanks in advance.
Our Auto Fanatic Professional Wheel Cleaning Foam i use it to do all engine and brake detailing ck our website and IG feed for info
Even where the pistons are its good to use. I wanna replace my pads but clean the caliper as well.
Hi, i have a ford C max 1.6 TDCI Diesel Titanium x with 17" wheel in Turkey. Is there any brembo disc&caliper solution to replace my car's brakes ? If it is exist, what is the part number of these ? BR.
Great vids , are we ever gonna see the face that goes with that great voice?
Any recommendation for a Copper anti-seize aside from the tube you got from Mercedes?
3M Anti-seize works great.
Permatex or 3M or Kleen-Flo. Any automotive parts store
Perhaps take old rotors and spray different wheel cleaners on them, along with a control using water only to see if the wheel cleaners are causing more corrosion than normal wear and tear?
too much work its def the color changing wheel cleaners as i just started using those this past year and have nothing but issues with noises on all my cars past and present.
Order was cancelled... what wheel cleaner do you recommend for wheels that do not require serious cleaning? I keep my car in pretty good shape so a strong cleaner is not usually needed.
get the Griots original, works great and it wont kill you, Cyber Monday should have these on sale and free shipping. Use the Solo or Sure Shot Sprayers they work awesome and the Sure Shot will give it good flow to agitate on it's own. check my sprayer video for details on those.
If your issue also is in the rear follow the same steps except the rear caliper bolts require 85ftlbs.
Auto Fanatic curious why you haven’t gone with Caliperfexion studs? Saves the threads in the aluminum hubs and when used with the optional extensions it makes brake jobs a breeze.
sidewayzking13 i did this job at 10pm fri night no time for fancy parts delivery, no need to change studs il be using new oem bolts once i swap calipers soon enough.
Next time you remove them use some compressed air and blow the hub threads out. I removed my caliper bolts once to install Ti backing plates for track duty and I was amazed of how much aluminum pieces blew out of the threads. Glad I had already purchased the studs as I will be working on the brakes a lot during track season. I can’t see the threads lasting long. Rather by the “fancy parts” instead of new hubs eventually.
did you use an impact gun to remove your original bolts? I can make those studs in one of my shops easily, maybe il see what cost per unit is, i think $139 is expensive for 4 studs and nuts we can turn those easily and sell for less, but the market is small i am sure.
Nope. Breaker bar just like in your video. 800 miles on the car and it was the first and only removal of those bolts. If you can make them even better! I just chalked it up to preventive maintenance. The stud extension are worth the price of admission imo also. You remove the nuts off the studs, thread on the extensions and slide the caliper back onto the extensions allowing the caliper to hang for pad/rotor changes.
If the 136 ft*lb torque setting is that critical, how much was the resistance from the partially set-up Locktite Blue stealing from the clamping load that the torque is indirectly measuring?Thanks for the info on wheel cleaners. Haven't used them before, now I know I never will.
considering it was 10PM on a Fri night and i had a long week it was not easy to get those bolts in and out. Going back in was much easier for the bolts. There was oxidized corrosion from the wheel cleaners, I couldn't show that on camera but when I got my spotlight in there I saw it. If you listen carefully you can hear it as I undo the bolts. I used a wire brush the clean out the hole, the same ones I use to clean my spray guns and other equipment. I am going to make 17-4 studs in my shop soon enough. I still prefer the GM Brembo brakes for pad swaps, remove the middle bridge and bingo no caliper removal, I think Ford used this design for caliper stiffness. Also very surprised how small the pistons are for total piston area, My Stoptech ST60 and AP Racing and Brembos on my other cars have way more piston area. Stay away from those wheel cleaners, Im sure il get hate mail from the companies selling them soon enough ha ha ha.
also the loctite i applied on the bolts did nothing for making it harder during assembly, this was a matter of 3 minutes from applying to bolt and reinstalling which is normal. much hard to remove bolts then reinstalling.
AF, I did not view the operational link inside the link I just sent. Their caliper studs are required at $139./set. Those extension sleeves only provide an extended position & support for the calipers ( about 6 inches out ) away from the rotors instead of laying them down. I don't think they provide enough room or allowable access to get the pads & springs out for your cleaning operation, do you? Oh well....Your thoughts?
these are a nice product i am considering and they are the only ones making them. I looked into making these but it isnt worth my time and effort for something so small, i would just do the studs those other pieces don't make much sense to me to be honest. they offer them in two materials i still do not know why or what the benefits are versus the other. But using these studs makes caliper removal identical to al the aftermarket big brake kits from Brembo, Stoptech etc.
Thx, AF. So their caliper bolts are better than the factory stock ones & you would recommend, but the extension sleeve bolt extensions are not really practical?
if you plan to track the car often and do pad swaps having those studs makes total sense, if not the OEM bolts are fine but are a total PITA to get out with the loctite etc. the OEM bolts cost around $27 a pair so think about the savings if you decide to pull the brakes off the car many times as Ford does recommend changing the OEM bolts each time.
Your awesome bro from detailing to mechanical work. Thanks for the education great videos .
thanks for watching this one
@@autofanaticcars The reason why they squeal is not because of the pad surface, but due to vibration harmonic's sure clean pads will make it better, but no person who has performance brakes and rotors is going to do what your doing, in fact its about making sure that the rotors are machined, just so lightly just cleaning them and also using the copper paste anti squealing paste or rubber shims, which stops the vibrations and quieting the harmonic's and also depending on the brand of pads as well, hi end performance pads are made from a compound that reacts with heat, so the more pressure on the pads the less noises as well, which is why when you apply the brakes lightly they squeal like a stick pig cheers :)
Also all race performance type rotors are not drilled only slotted, the drilled rotors will crack 100% no matter what steel is used if your going to track the car, as a daily then now you know why, its heat related the more pressure applied the less noises. :) Keep up the great work as well. :)
Do you do the sanding process on the pads with new pads as well?
no only on used pads to clean them up
@@autofanaticcars oh okay cool thanks because I been running after market pads from oriellys and I can’t seem to solve that braking squeaking but I think using oriellys pads is my problem 😅😂
Sir, does the loktite setting early up cause "binding" on the bolt, thereby affecting the true torque on the bolt??
no the time between putting the loctite on the bolts and installation was less than 3 min, i doubt it even set by then.
Also I use heat shrink tubing on my sockets to prevent scratching the paint on my rims.
that also works but if you let the rim fall it wont save you thats the key mistake not to let happen.
I agree. This is my just in case or oops backup.
Where are you getting your tq specs from? 136ft lbs for caliper bolts into an aluminum bracket seems overkill as well as 150ftlbs for lug nuts! Yikes!
factory specs from Ford
Awesome video. What did you use/do to remove the rust from your wheel hub?
rotary air 3 inch grinder with scotch brite pads usually
Auto Fanatic Great, thanks!
Incredibly informative, absolutely loved the video. Totally subscribing if you do more videos like this. If I may ask: how many miles do you have on yours, and how "bad" is that squeal? I have about 950 miles and three washes on mine (2017 GT350) and there's a squeal, but it's not terrible. Not quite at the "big bus" level of squeal. That said, I imagine it'll get worse.
it will only get worse, if you have the time do everything here and no more noise, so far its been gone ever since. Thanks for watching and Happy New Year. AF
LOL, the slide pins are on the inside of the backing plate you used the sandpaper on ,you need to clean the inside of it not the outside of it, the pins hold that plate in place and the pins hold the pads in place in the caliper, so cleaning all surfaces with brake clean is the best way and using wheel cleaning products which changes to a purple color when you use it, gets stuck on the parts as well, unless you can get a hi pressure water inside, where the pistons are to push out any products used, but hey when it rains the water will remove products anyway, its inside the caliper and if you want to keep the calipers clean, then just imagine how much people spend at dealerships to do what your doing, in fact they would just put new parts on and charge you instead of cleaning them and still not lube the parts??
mate you need to show how loud the squealing noises are before and after you have cleaned them, not just showing how to clean and put copper anti squealing paste on the piston surfaces on the pads etc. :)
Your video inspired me to fix my ZL1’s squeal.... amazing to me that there was no grease whatsoever very poor design
if you had a 5th Gen Camaro any version they were putting stick on wheel weights on the front calipers as a bandaid to cancel out the harmonic squeal, it was the craziest thing i ever say and it did not work
Fantastic! Mines at 2k miles and the squeal drives me nuts
get this done my car has been quiet since i did this video/
Great video. I use wheel woollies and car was soap to wash my wheels. Another alternative would be using Simple Green diluted 10:1
simply green isnt safe on anodize calipers we found your safer with soap or a safe cleaner like Griots original, it drives me nuts why OEM use this stupid finish on brake calipers still.
That is true. We use Alconox or Sparkleen for cleaning Anodized parts at work. It's used mainly for degreasing.
What about between pad and shim?
Good information on the brakes, I have the same issue.
yeah everyone with this car has the issue, if you can do this yourself get it done, my car has been silent since. I also did the rears for the sake of doing them. the rears take 20 min max, the fronts take a bit longer.
@@autofanaticcars I'm having a hard time removing the rear breaks. I even bought the E brake tool (the modified vise grips), but it does not work (it's to big). Do you have any other ideas on how to remove the E brake cable? Thanks!
Great video, thanks for sharing! I think Adam wheel cleaner is the cause of my brake squeal.... will switch to Griots original.
stop using all of those color change cleaners, do the repair outlined in this video then start using diluted car wash soap for the wheels or the Griots original. the corrosion on the hardware is ridiculous from the other fancy cleaners. it ruined my blacktop on the driveway and rusted out my caliper hardware easily.
admire ur skills, i got the same problem on my GT350
get this done and no more problems trust me.
Great video
Thanks!
Nice job.
Thanks!
what car jack do you use
I have a few low profile jacks I suggest investing in a really good jack like the one from Griots or AC Hydraulic, yes expensive but well worth it.
Sir,did it stop the noise?
100% no more noise. I will do the same to my rears in a couple of weeks when I install my custom painted brake calipers, I am not doing the R Calipers, going to do something a bit more personalized so stay tuned, il make a multi part video series on the process.
ford recommends new bolts because they don’t trust their technicians in dealerships to install loctite and their bolts come with it on the threads already. so everyone can chill ab re using the bolts
You could have bought copper antiseize from any where...ijs
not where i live you can not get anything around here
What is the result ?? Because mine Are still squelaing !!! ! !!!
you then did something wrong my car has not squealed since this video
I rest the caliper on a little bucket
Just a FYI The caliper bolts are torque to yield. Ford Recommend installing new caliper bolts
not needed Ford just wants to sell you $40 bolts, at the track on cars we always used the same bolts and never an issue, if you use them maybe 10+ times i would say yes but with the loctite and proper torque it isn't a big deal for a few times. Ford also suggest all new hardware when you do a suspension and i know maybe 20% of guys even do this even after swapping parts multiple times.
Auto Fanatic Thanks. Great videos. I just swapped my stock pads for g-loc pads because I couldn’t take the squealing any longer. Are the p51 wheels significantly better thank the project 6gr wheels
The wheels are most likely made in the same factory in Taiwan, its a matter of style you prefer, the car does drive and react totally different with the P51 as they are super light. Cant go wrong either way I had them all in a 4 week period.
Now that its been 4 months....... are you still squeal free????
yes 100% gone since this video was posted
Are brakes really this easy? You made it look like childs play.
easy if you have experience mechanically, ive been doing brakes close to 30 years so yes id say easy for me, ha ha ha thanks for watching and if your car has this issue get this done.
Auto Fanatic I don't even own a gt350. Lol hoping one day..
If you find yourself doing brake work on a frequent basis, check out these caliper studs Tob came up with. Will save you from having to replace bolts and the aluminum knuckle from having the material stripped out from repeatedly undoing the bolts. caliperfexion.net/ . He's also a frequent contributor on several Mustang boards and really knows his business.
yeah those look like a good idea, will pick some up in the spring.
Mercedes use the same brake setup with the same issues 😂
Really? Even on a W220 S-Class? My 2000 S430 squeals so loud it actually hurts my ears. The Brembo pads aren’t even that old, so I don’t know what the problem is.
18 dec 2019 4:14 pm est:thanks