I have stumbled onto this video by accident. But, I want to say THANK YOU. You have provided consumers with valuable information to arm us when we go out in the trenches to purchase a mattress. I do not live in the USA, I live in Canada. Now I will research about Canadian manufacturers & also about what policies are in place regarding Flame Retardent chemicals. Truely honest, straight up people like you are my kind of people. Again, thank you for all the "Beducation".
These Beducation videos are actually really informative; I'm glad I stumbled across them. So many bed buying "tips" videos are just badly narrated filler and opinions to put in front of a website advertisement, but I actually learned about bed construction and sales practices from the Beducation videos. I mean, even the fact that I've sat here and watched four videos about _beds_ of all things (it is TH-cam, after all...I could be watching cute cat videos) proves they're pretty interesting, haha. You have a great presence for this; feels like I'm watching a documentary on "how it's made" or something.
+krycekno There recently has been an explosion of so called mattress research and review sites, and these are nothing more than REVENUE sites where they get paid referral fees for people buying through the links they produce on their web sites. This is the new method of advertising with many mattress companies, including almost every online mattress brand. BEWARE!
My parents are starting to have issues with their mattress. My mom and dad hips, back, sides is hurting. They’ve had the mattress for over 5 years now... the pains started a few months ago. Thank You for your response...
I can't diagnose online why your parents are uncomfortable when sleeping and have these issues. I can only offer general suggestions. Most pains/back issues are environmentally related and a result of one's level of fitness/strength or pre-existing conditions. Mattresses generally don't cause these problems, but they can contribute to their exacerbation or slow the restoration process. As my friend Mark Kinsley from Englander says, a poor mattress can "keep your pain alive". It's unlikely that something happened to the mattress just a few months ago to cause an issue (like flipping a light switch), unless it was moved and damaged. It's more likely that something changed in your parents' life if the onset of this was sudden. If it was a gradual change, it could be that the mattress no longer suits their specific needs. If the mattress is one of the "typical" larger brand names out there, it very well could be at the end of its useful comfort life, as many of these products use lower density foams that seem to lose quite a bit of their support factor in the 4-5 year range. If this is the case, your parents should seek an educated comfort consultant who can guide them through the mattress buying process and help explain to them the difference in comfort materials and their quality and help them make an educated decision, finding componentry that is appropriate to what seems to be some very specific needs. Good luck!
@andy74123 Andy, visco-elastic memory foam is technically a specialized style of polyurethane foam that slowly recovers and is temperature senstive. There's a wide range of quality, softness and recovery speed within visco-elastic foam offerings. Latex foam isn't polyurethane - it's vulcanized rubber. The terms visco-elastic and memory foam refer to the same thing. If you squeeze your topper product and it slowly "reinflates" then it's probably safe to assume it's some type of memory foam.
The latex we offer (pure LatexBLISS) doesn't off gas (only water), doesn't smell and doesn't absorb moisture. It's exactly the opposite. A premium virgin talalay latex is open-cell, breathable and not temperature sensitive. Plus, the ActiveFusion technology helps to dissipate heat even more. The problems you describe are commonly associated with visco-elastic memory foam.
+Christina Rutherford It's not unusual for people to keep latex mattresses over 20 years, and if you're considering a premium all-latex product (not a poly foam core product with a little latex on top) that certainly would be within the realm of possibility. However, I always recommend that you reevaluate your premium mattress after a decade and then yearly after that.
Comparing same density and depth, which is better for pressure point relief? Visco memory foam or Latex? (I once had a memory foam that was like sleeping on a cloud but can't remember the density. I think it was very very soft and felt wonderul. I'm still trying to find another one like it.) Also do I understand correctly that not all memory foams are created equally in that visco elastic is not the same as polyurethane member foam?
Both materials are very point elastic and can provide good pressure point relief, but they have different feels. Latex is more buoyant and memory foam has more of a dead feel. People tend to prefer one versus the other. Also, realize that the overall feel is subject to the entire sleep system, as it works as a complete unit. Density and plushness is an almost direct relationship in latex (higher density equates to a harder feel), but not necessarily in memory foam. For use in mattresses, almost all memory foam will be in a very ultra plush range of comfort (lower ILD), but there can be variations in recovery rate, glass transition temperature, breathability, sensitivity to heat (viscous nature) and so on, that can change how the memory foam feels. Technically, memory foam is a slow recovery type of polyurethane foam, and yes, not all memory foam is created equally. There are variations in quality (density), as well as some of the characteristics that I previously mentioned.
Comfort is subjective. Generally speaking, for a side sleeper you want enough surface comfort to allow for some point elasticity around the shoulder, waist and hips. But not so much of a drop that you induce lateral curvature. Maintaining a more neutral alignment is key. How much comfort material on top depends upon the individual and their dimensions. You can achieve good comfort for a side sleeper using latex, memory foam, and polyurethane, or a combination of these items for your comfort layers.
@canoeshoe In general, latex foam and norma polyurethane foam don't change comfort as the ambient temperature changes in your bedroom. Visco-elastic foam, even the never ventilated versions, still change comfort as they become cooler or warmer.
Hi and thanks for the demonstration, which one do you think is better for sound absorption? I know it is not typical but I guess latex foam will be a good sound insulator, may you tell your opinion as an expert?
Unfortunately, I know nothing about acoustics. That's a question best left to an expert in that field. I did find some really interesting information about sound absorption and soundproofing and foams from this company: acousticalsolutions.com/how-to-soundproof-acoustic-foam-does-not-block-sound/ . You can even email questions to the expert on that page.
Every piece of foam will have an individual IFD. If the manufacturer is trying to make a harder feeling foam, it will have a higher IFD number (like 36), If the foam is softer feeling, the IFD will be lower (like 19).
@ericjakob I'm not sure of the makeup of the mattress you're talking about but in general memory foam wouldn't be the answer. You'll need something stiffer and more resilient. One of the best replacement ones I've ever found (without an innersrping) was a special zoned high-density polyurethane foam called Conformafoam. I'm sure this is produced under different names for various companies, but in general you'll want to look for a firm and higher density polyurethane foam product.
Thank you for all the great info on all your Beducations. I guess Latex is the way to go for me with all my ailments. Only thing I worry about is it going to be to stiff like laying on a board and aside from my muscle and bone problems I have respiratory problems and am concerned about the odor it gives off...I also, say Latex because I live in Florida, My bedroom is the warmest in the house even with the air going and I tend to be warm.
After doing tons of research I purchased a latex mattress topper a year or so ago. Initially I enjoyed the new feel of it. It was softer and a lot more enjoyable than my previous mattress which felt more like a wooden block.(I use it as the base now) But overtime ive realised that it's not actually helping me for my intended purposes. I weigh around 80kgs and i am a side sleeper and the latex topper is not able to relieve my pressure points like my shoulder and hips and I've very had neck pain and back pain because of it. I feel the topper is too bouncy and resilient for my weight even at a medium density. Interestingly, I purchased another mattress with a memory foam for my other room and that feels a lot more firm than my latex topper. I really thought it would be soft and sink in but it wasn't like that. Its not the most comfortable mattress ive tried but sleeping on that occasionally feels like a relief (which is kinda disappointing since my topper costs almost twice as much) I am thinking of getting something else. Any advise? Should I go for a topper again or a whole mattress? Should I change materials or should i stick to latex and go for something softer? I can't really figure it out honestly
Unfortunately, picking out a mattress for you online isn't something that I can do with any sort of accuracy. I'll try to address some of the comments you made, but much of the information you provided is incomplete so I'll have to make some assumptions and reply in very general terms which I hope are helpful. A topper of any type will generally provide extra plushness to what it is placed upon, but it has no choice but to conform to what it is placed upon, and the feel of the topper is primarily determined by what it is placed upon. If you put it on something very hard, then your overall sleep surface will still feel very hard, but just with a bit of surface plushness. You don't mention the type of latex, the thickness, or the ILD or density of the topper, but assuming a common 3" Talalay latex topper in the mid-20s ILD (you mentioned a "medium density") will provide a bit of extra plushness when placed upon what you describe as a "wooden block". But something of only 3" would unlikely be the cause of back issues, and most neck issues tend to be pillow related. I would guess that the underlying issue if that the mattress under the latex topper is overall too hard. I have to guess here, as I have no specifics upon the exact construction of the product. The "pushback" and "resilience" you're relating to the topper would primarily be from the mattress underneath the topper. It's quite possible that you'd need a more substantial build-up of materials atop this mattress to meet your very specific needs, but this isn't something I recommend you pursue. As for your other purchase, you provide even less information, so I really can't comment at all upon that set up. My best guess would be that it contours a bit better to you when you're on your side, and as far as overall comfort it's probably a step in the right direction. What to purchase next? My best advice would be to find an educated comfort consultant at a store in your area who can assess your body type, sleeping style, previous history, and recommend something with componentry that will better suit you. I don't recommend purchasing a mattress with a topper right away as a general rule, as you're immediately throwing an extra variable into the mix. I'd suggest trying to find something that as a complete mattress better suits your needs. As a side sleeper who seems to have chosen items that are too hard feeling, I'd suggest something that offers good deep support for a more neutral alignment, but also has good surface conforming characteristics to assist with allowing the hips and shoulders to sink a bit and distribute your mass over a bit of a wider area. Good luck!
@@BeducationMattress fantastic assumptions and thank you for taking the time to reply. so let me address what I can. The base mattress is an old coir-spring mattress ad its very hard surface, its hardish. If i put my knee on it, it goes down quite a bit at that spot. but when I lie down on it and my weight gets distributed, there is hardly any sinking in- perhaps even less than a quarter of an inch - maybe. My later topper is 3 inches in thickness and IDL I believe is 22. it sinks in but has a lot of bounce and pushback. perhaps its too resilient for my weight. when I lie down on it, and Ive measured this, some spots like my shouldres sink in by 1/2 max, much less any advertising or video suggests. the topper sinking in only by half an inch means that atleat 2 inches of the topper is unaffected by my weight and I dont think the base is in anyway affected enough to play a role currently since I wrote my questions, I have removed that topper (which i have been using for a year) and gone back to directly sleeping on the base mattress and I am surprised at how relieved my shoulder and neck feel because that wasnt the case before I purchaed the topper. even though the coir-spring mattress is hard, I feel less presssure on my shoulders for sure. granted its only been a 3 times that I have slept on it and so I am going to do this for 30 days before I decide what to buy next. rest of your insight seems logical as well. Thanks, once again
A mattress that uses coir atop of springs will tend to have a bit of a higher surface tension. How much depends upon the concentration and the thickness of the coir, as well as the type of spring unit upon which the coir is placed, and the type of foundation (active versus solid). There is more contouring and deflection going on in the combined sleep set than what you observe at the surface and relate to only 1/4". As for your description of the topper and how it is working for you, it is important to realize that all of the layers within a sleep system (foundation, mattress comfort layers) work in unison, versus sequentially. So again, your topper/mattress combination is deflecting more than you relate in your comments. This can be difficult to conceptualize and wouldn't be something to which most people would relate unless they were in the business of designing and engineering sleep systems (which wouldn't be too many people). Generally, increasing the surface comfort on a product that is too hard will tend to relieve pressure point issues for a side sleeper. But adding surface plushness to something that allows for too much sink (perhaps with poorer support characteristics) can negatively impact alignment and cause more issues. All of this points back to my first statement about the inability to pick a product for someone online. It tends to be a bit of folly. Despite one's best efforts to be accurate in their descriptions, it's difficult for a layperson to provide an accurate representation of the state of the componentry within an existing mattress, which is why it's so much better to visit with someone who is knowledgeable in person and then relate your impressions in real time on products that are presented to you for testing. That's what I do with all of my clients - I tend to not focus too much on their old products, but instead look for componentry in a new mattress that tends to be appropriate. There was a good article I ran across a few years ago on The Mattress Underground that described how mattress layers work in unison if that is of interest to you, but I don't have the link. That site might also be a good resource for finding an educated comfort consultant or business close to where you live. Good luck!
@@BeducationMattress thank you again for taking the time. the search for answers goes on. but i understood that this is something that has to be tried to know more. I will check the resource you mentioned as well.
@blckjade05 Foams aren't impact resistant, but visco-elastic memory foam is the best at deadening motion, as that is its original design. The number one culprit for motion transfer in a mattress is your metal bedframe.
After watching this video I decided on lawyering latex on top of memory foam! Hopefully it'll give me the cooling effect, as sleeping on just my memory foam topper is a little too hot
Placing a layer of latex on top of a typical memory foam construction can be quite comfortable, and it certainly will assist a bit with heat dispersion. Talalay latex will be more breathable than Dunlop latex, generally speaking. Good luck!
Can you do a utube for mattress choices for heavy sleepers? Most mattresses are made for people within a certain weight but what if you are outside this?
Thanks for the suggestion. It's on the list, but I'm afraid it's a ways down in the order. With larger individuals, it's imperative that they choose comfort materials that are durable and maintain their resiliency under higher mechanical stress. This would generally be higher density (and not too soft) polyurethane foams, more dense natural fibers, and latex foam rubber. Nanocoil and microcoils can also be durable comfort layers, as well as some higher quality buckling column gels in the deeper upholstery layers. For the support core, firmer latex can be appropriate, along with higher density, firmer high resiliency polyurethane foam, and stronger innerspring units. These are just some quick, general guidelines.
@@BeducationMattress are there any mattresses you would recommend? My husband is around 270. We are always getting a dip in our mattress. We are considering pocket coil with 3 to 4 inches of latex. What do you think? Ghost bed natural tala latex - 'or silk and snow organic dunlop latex? Or should we go to a private company that customizes where you can switch out the layers like get 2 inches of dunlop and 2 inches of tala. It's really hard shopping right now because most mattress companies do not include latex in their mattresses.
I'm sorry, but I couldn't begin to make any sort of an accurate recommendation for a specific mattress via an online forum. To do so would be a disservice. You're best served by seeking items using the higher quality components about which I previously wrote. There area a few people I respect producing pocketed spring mattresses with latex on top, and they in general are not a fan of that combination with larger individuals, instead preferring some sort of all-latex configuration (using firmer latex for the support core). But this is a general statement. There are other good and solid materials out there besides latex, and with over 500 companies nationally producing mattresses, there are plenty who manufacture lines using higher quality componentry (polyfoam above 1.8 pound in density, pre-compressed cotton and wool, medium-plush to firmer Talalay or Dunlop latex, etc.). There's a good guide somewhere on The Mattress Underground that discusses items for larger individuals that you might find interesting.
The term "relatively nontoxic" isn't an objective standard for which an item can be tested (although most people I think would get the gist of what you're meaning), so standards like CertiPUR-US do have some specific things for which they test (which I think most people would agree are good things to evaluate). If the polyurethane FOAMS used in a mattress are CertiPUR-US certified, it means that they are: -made without PBDEs -made without heavy metals -made without formaldehyde -made without phthalates regulated by CPSC -low VOC certified (< .5 ppm) -made without ozone depleters certipur.us/ has more complete details on the testing process and actual requirements for foams to meet these standards.
@@BeducationMattress thank you. I looked up Centi-Pur's list of mattress manufacturers and Linenspa, the bed I just purchased, had some sort of vague notation that didn't seem to ensure they were Centi-pur certified currently. I'm ok so far, no symptoms. Thank you for the detailed answer
The CertiPUR-US website states for Linenspa: "This company is on record as using CertiPUR-US® certified foam, but updated directory listing information is currently unavailable." So, they simply haven't updated some of their company category information with CertiPUR-US, which needs to be done on a yearly basis.
@@BeducationMattress I feel better now. I had gotten a Zinus innerspeing mattress and got the worst low back pain, so got the Linenspa hybrid my first memory foam.
That's great if the new mattress is working better for you. Unfortunately, there's no one mattress or material that's guaranteed to relieve low back issues. We can only evaluate products based upon the quality of their componentry to help determine/rank for an expected consistent comfort life. I'm happy you feel better now.
Thank you for this great and useful information. I'm in the market for a mattress, but I am not sure what to go with. I tend to stay away from synthetic, chemical materials. What about gel infused mattresses, do they really give a cooler effect? I have read many mixed reviews on this topic. Does it matter if I go with a latex/spring if I want to have a adjustable bed? Will a organic cover help with the chemicals and bed bugs? Thank you.
All foams have chemicals in them (even latex), but that doesn't necessarily mean that the product is harmful. Safety is certainly an important concern and you want to make sure that any foams you consider are at least CertiPUR-US certified for polyurethane. While gels (and to a greater extended phase changing gels) can assist with conduction of heat, the claims of the industry tend to be greatly exaggerated. Most effects are for initial surface touch and these gels tend to load quite rapidly. Specifically, these foams will not act like a heat sink. As for an adjustable bed, we've always recommended an all-latex mattress. It best puts up with the specific weight concentrations and bending produced by a power foundation. A cover will not have anything to do with chemical filtration. An organic certified (GOTS) cover will meet the Global Organic Textile Standards and have fewer synthetics in it (must be at least 95% organic certified componentry). For bed bugs, you'd want to make sure that whatever cover you are using has a zipper that is certified as bed bug proof. The organic nature of the cover wouldn't matter one way or the other in that case. as it relates to bed bugs. That would simply be a personal preference.
I have torn ligaments behind my tailbone and pelvis and need pressure relief #1. Which foam do you recommend? Memory foam, the latex, or the newer generation of polyurethane foams? I'm debating between a sleep number iLE and a sealy copper II plush. Sleep Number's foam is propietary and I wonder if they use the newer poly foams that mimic memory foam?
I'm sorry to hear of your injury. While pressure relief certainly is important for your particular situation, you'll also need to make sure that whatever product you choose has excellent support/alignment characteristics. Latex is excellent at pressure point relief in appropriate ILDs, and when combined with other latex layers or with a good marshall spring unit it can be very good at pressure point relief, as it is very point elastic and supportive. Visco-elastic foam is also quite point elastic and is good at pressure point relief, but it will be more reliant upon the basic foam / spring unit under it for proper alignment and support, so pay attention to that. 4-5 pound density would be a decent quality of visco-elastic foam in general. Some of the newer generation of high density polyurethane foams can also be quite durable and good at pressure point relief, but would also depend upon how they were combined and ordered within a particular mattress. As you have a very specific condition, I'd strongly recommend testing out items in person, and learning about the quality of the components within the mattress before making any purchase decision. Good luck!
What do you say about HR(high resilience) P.U foam? I tried it in one of the stores and it felt good and affordable too. The warranty in the product is a good 15 years. How does it compare with memory foam and latex?
High resilience polyurethane foam is defined as 2.5 lb density or above, with a compression modulus of 2.4 or above. Much of the polyurethane foam marketed as high resilience, especially by mattress companies, is in fact not true high resilience foam. If it is truly high resilience polyurethane foam, this can be a very durable and better quality material. It is a totally different material from memory foam (which is essentially a polyurethane foam that is made to "spring back" slowly with a viscous nature), and latex, which is foamed rubber and generally considered the most durable of all comfort foam materials.
Oh, and I forgot to mention, the warranty tells you absolutely nothing about the quality of componentry, so having a 15 year warranty is not a part of evaluating the quality of mattress componentry, and I would place little emphasis on that.
Can I Buy a Mattress From You? I Appreciate your video. I've had a Tempur-pedic Pillow for Yrs. & my intention was to buy their mattress soon, however, I wanted a New Pillow 1st. It's NOT what it used to be~ Now, it's Soft , 3" Shorter and Not Like my old one! I'm afraid to buy one from them now. I want a Contour Elete Firm Mattress! Can you help?
Hello Elizabeth. Sorry to hear about your pillow, but all foams will soften with use over time, and not all pillows with the Tempurpedic label on them are the same. Yes, we do ship all over the country, but we do not offer Tempurpedic products. We do offer a very high quality memory foam product, but unless you are close to our store in Michigan it would be a bit risky having you buy it without trying it, as it is custom made for us here in Michigan and not something available nationally to sample at a local store. Anytime you change a single layer within a mattress you change the feel, so attempting to match one mattress to another "known" mattress is often a quite futile task dealing specifically with the specifications - even expert mattress foam and spring engineers can't tell what a mattress will feel like until they assemble it and try it out in person. If you're not local to my store and want to order something online that tends to have offerings that "mimic" some of the Tempurpedic models, you may wish to investigate Christeli memory foam beds (I'm not affiliated with them). They do make some nice products and some of their models have a base that can be flipped to offer different levels of comfort to lessen the risk of buying online. I hope that helps.
Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU) is not a normal mattress cushioning material. Here are a few links describing TPU and the process for creating and 3D printing: blog.trimech.com/know-your-materials-tpu-92a www.hexpol.com/tpe/resources/tpe-academy/what-is-tpe/what-is-tpu/ en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoplastic_polyurethane plastics-rubber.basf.com/emea/en/performance_polymers/products/infinergy.html
Thank you so much for your video. It was very helpful and I wish there were more bed experts like you near where I lived! It is my first time shopping for a bed and I tried to do some research online but I just have no idea where to start. I sometimes have back pain from very mild scoliosis, weigh around 58kg (128lbs), but looking for a budget mattress since I am a graduate student. I live in New Zealand so hot and humid in the summer, and wet and cold in the winter. If you have any advise, it would be greatly appreciated! :) Thank you so much.
I'm glad the video was helpful. I know it can be difficult finding something in a limited budget range that works well for you, so you'll have to manage your expectations a bit. As you have a pre-existing condition of scoliotic curvature, and maintaining a more neutral alignment is the most important thing done by a mattress, focus first upon the support unit within the mattress. If it's an all-foam bed, try to find something with a firmer polyurethane foam core of 1.8 lb. in density. If you can't find that in your price range, try to find something that is a firmer core of 1.5 lb. density. As for the surface cushioning, again here you'll probably be limited by your budget. Good sleep ergonomic research will recommend "just enough" cushioning to get the job done, so you don't necessarily need something that is overly plush (again protecting your alignment with your slight scoliosis). Avoid the temptation of buying something that uses multiple layers of very low density foam, and instead try to find something that is using better density cushioning foam (in your price range hopefully you can find 1.5 lb. density). I'm not aware of what you have available in your area in New Zealand, but your best values are probably going to be from all polyurethane foam products (foam core and cushioning layers) or a more basic innerspring product using polyurethane foam for the cushioning layers. Your budget will probably be best served by avoiding memory foam or latex cushioning layers, as those can be more costly. Good luck!
How can you tell if the Latex mattress you have is all latex, or polyfoam in the middle? I have one from 13 years ago which is a Natures Rest Composure which has been great but the impressions from where we sleep are large now and I want to replace it. The market has changed radically and foam is all the rage now. I think I will get another latex mattress but now I am questioning if I should get one which is latex all the way through or not. I think we spent $2200 back 13 years ago and I see some now in the $4,000 range. Not sure I want to go there, but the latex really was very nice for us (back sleepers some side - Normal sized people - 200 lb / 130 lb). Love your videos, wish you were in Massachusetts I would be down today shopping
Thank you for the compliments. Without taking the cover off of your product and looking at the foam, you could look at the law tag and see in the content section if "polyurethane foam" is listed in a significant percentage. I don't know the specifications of the Natures Rest Composure from 13 years ago - even their web site from back them is incomplete. Their N-Balance line did use some polyfoam I know. Regardless, the first thing I would do would be to check that your foundation is perfectly flat and unforgiving and that you have proper center reinforcement under that. Those things can all contribute to the product sagging. Next, I would look for all-latex mattresses that approximate the feel you desire. You didn't mention what size you have, but even a king all-latex mattress can be had very affordably (well under $4000). There are also many component-style systems available where you can change your comfort over time and customize on the left and right sides. As latex has worked well for you in the past, I would start with that and not worry so much about trying to duplicate what you have, but find a comfort range that works for you. That's my best advice. Hope it helps.
Thank you that helps a lot. It is Nature Made (house brand by Sleepys made by Natures Rest) and indeed the law tag has 90% polyurethane foam and then lower (without a percentage) it says "Latex foam rubber core". I will start shopping for all latex. It is a king that I am shopping for. To be specific the sagging is more of an indentation in the upper pad where we lie (the mattress looks like it has a pad similar to a pillow top, then the core below it). It is not a slump in the center. Thanks again though. I know you ship as well, not sure if that would make sense but would be curious what some pricing would look like. Do you have customers out of state you ship to?
If the law tag is correct, and per your description, it would most likely be that you have polyfoam in the quilt, and then probably a layer of latex under that, with a polyfoam core for the base (if 90% of the mattress is indeed polyfoam). This would explain the body impressions you're experiencing, which would be mostly from the polyfoam in the quilt. While we do ship our products, we currently don't ship our Pure Talalay Bliss products. I don't have a recommendation for you regarding a particular brand (that's not what i do here with the videos), but I can say you have many quality options out there for what you're looking to do.
Hi Jeff, I am in the market for a new mattress.I was set on pure latex but some(ok, an online company) are saying it is not comfortable because it pushes against you causing one huge pressure point and that is why it springs back so fast.I take this with a grain of salt and know this part of marketing but still wonder if there is some truth to this.
As I think you're already aware, blanket statements like what you described aren't accurate and in the end generally lead you to a product that someone is hawking. Latex will be more resilient than most foams, but like any product, it's offered in varying ILDs to accommodate various sleeping styles, somatotypes and personal preferences. And of course, the overall feel of any mattress is a combination of all materials, and some people may have an affinity for latex, while others at prefer memory foam, natural fibers or polyurethane foam. There is no one correct answer - you just want to make sure that whatever you choose is made of high quality materials and constructed well. As far as using other people's opinions, that would be the absolute least reliable way of picking out a mattress, as what might feel best for someone else has nothing to do with you and your particular needs.
All foams experience various degrees of change in compression modulus, as well as other measured parameters, when compressed for longer periods of time. There are various factors involved, such as the amount of compression, folding, humidity, along with the specific type of foam and the very specific qualities of that foam. If you have questions about recommended length of time or amount of compression for specific type of foam, those questions would be best answered by the manufacturer of that foam, as they would have gone through their own durability testing of that particular foam formulation and know best the recommendations for appropriate treatment of their material.
thank you for the explanation. I want to start selling poufs that are 100% natural. do you recommend latex foam to stuff the poufs? I want them to be firm, yet comfortable. Thank you so much for your answer.
If you wanted to use a foam stuffing material that is "more natural" than not, you certainly could select latex. While it isn't "100% Natural", you can find quite a bit of Dunlop latex that is GOLS (Global Organic Latex Standard) certified (95+% natural content) if that is important for your story in the production and marketing of your product. For firmness, this would depend upon the density of the Dunlop latex used (higher density = harder feeling), and if it is shredded latex, you would also vary the size of the shredded chunks to achieve your desired level of comfort.
I'm glad you found the video useful. We've had to filter all comments, as over time we've received some very off-color comments from mattress retailers who are upset with us for empowering consumers with honest objective mattress information. It's sad, but true. Too many in the industry want consumers to be uninformed so that they may continue to sell their lower-quality products. Thanks for your kind words.
can you mix latex foam and memory foam together? I'm looking for a deadening effect from the memory foam but with a instant recovery as much as possible, there is no specific memory foam that does this is there, it has a latency in its recovery.
You may mix memory foam with anything you like! There are more variations appearing on the market with different speeds of recovery (faster seems to be more popular these days), but a ball rebound of less than 20% or so is usually considered normal for memory foam. If you are most partial to the feel of memory foam but don't want too much "sink", then you could create a component system using memory foam for the uppermost layer and then latex immediately beneath. If you like the "dead" feel of memory foam but not initially when lying down upon the mattress, place your latex layer as the uppermost layer within the mattress, then place your memory foam layer immediately beneath. One of my favorite old mattresses was one that used latex on top with memory foam beneath. It had a slightly buoyant feel, but also a bit of "deadness". A bit of the best of both worlds. I should note that some of the newer generations of higher density plush polyurethane specialty foams have a plushness similar to memory foam, yet have a higher ball rebound, fast recovery, and little to no viscous nature.
Ah, I understand. No worries. While I'm not a foam engineer or chemist, it has been discussed before mixing polyurethane foam (technically memory foam is just slow recovery polyurethane foam) with latex in different manners. Your question reminded me of a few patents I came across on this subject years ago when there was a company claiming to have a "natural" memory foam with latex in it. European Patent Application (EPA) EP0959099A1 and EP2511327A2 describe such a process. I have notes stating foam company Vefer made something according to the process in EP0959099AQ1 but found the results to be unsatisfactory, but I can't find the follow-up article stating the specifics. So to answer your question, yes, it does seem to be possible, but results currently aren't where the industry would like them to be, and there seems to be much more investigation and creation in the newer generation of high-performance plush polyurethane foams with many of the comforts of memory foam, but with less of the viscous nature and heat-retentive qualities.
About anything can grow mold if the environment is hospitable. You need an organic food source (quite often skin cells when referencing a mattress). You need a warmer temperature (upper 70s to mid 80s Fahrenheit). You need a humid environment. You need oxygen. There's your recipe. While mold is unable to digest inorganic material, it can thrive on organic material placed upon inorganic material, such as dust that contains quite a bit of skin cells that can accumulate between a box spring and a mattress. Latex foam is often represented as being inhospitable to mold formation, as it tends to flow quite a bit of air and not trap so much moisture. This is one of the reasons that latex foam is popular for use in the marine world. However, if you place any type of foam in an environment that is humid, warm and full of organic material, you can get mold to grow.
Yes, there are dozens of companies making such a product. Technically, a mattress that uses a polyurethane foam base with latex on top isn't a latex mattress - it would be some sort of a hybrid. I recommend all-latex products for their durability and consistent level of comfort.
Thank you, how would a latex foam mattress compare to the technology being used in the "purple" mattress, my one concern with the purple mattress is it hasn't been around very long but it seems very supportive and responsive...
Buckling columns perform very differently from foams in how they compress. You'd have to try out a product like that personally to gauge the level of "responsiveness".
I think you're referring to something that you personally would consider most "safe", as everything can be toxic, which is dosage dependent. What I would tell you to look for would be testing certifications from independent third party groups that test for harmful substances and VOCs, such as Oeko-Tex, Eco Institut, Cradle To Cradle or Greenguard Gold, just to name a few. The one foam that would be found to most easily pass these certifications would be latex.
High resiliency polyfoam tends to be a durable level of quality. Technically something that has at least a 2.5# density with a compression modulus of at least 2.4.
I would tell you to take a look at the pure LatexBLISS line of latex beds, based upon your comments. It gives you the buoyant feel you'll only get from a premium latex foam. If you try those out and like them, let us know. We ship them nationally at the lowest prices you'll find.
Density is mass per unit volume (sometimes I slip up and say it is weight, but it technically isn't). Commonly expressed in USA in pounds per cubic foot (I know, a pound isn't a unit of mass, but that's how it's discussed here.). In Europe, more commonly expressed in kg per meter cubed.
As a single foam layer, visco-elastic foam was originally created as a motion dampening foam, with low rebound and high hysteresis. It would be the best foam as minimizing motion transfer, followed generally by latex.
Domestically, flexible polyurethane foam companies have been coming up with different catalysts to substitute for lead and mercury based ones since the 1990s. There's a wide variety of catalysts available depending upon the type of polyurethane foam being produced and the characteristics desired within the foam, and whether it is a gelling or blowing catalyst. Your question is quite broad, and the best source for accurate information would be the actual manufacturer of the specific foam about which you were curious. Also, here are a few links to some catalysts manufacturers that you may find interesting: www.tri-iso.com/polyurethane-catalysts.html and www.intermediates.basf.com/chemicals/pur/catalysts .
@blckjade05 The nature of the product is that there will be some heat retention, varying with density, composition and manufacturing methodology. It's the nature of the beast.
does polyurethane foam soften with use. I have a 4 inch 2.5 density 35 ild poly foam mattress. should I get a 7 inch slab instead. my weight is 285 lbs. Will the 4inch slab soften?
+Rudolphe Alexis All foam will soften over time, even premium latex. But there is a large difference in the amount of softening (Flex Fatigue or Dynamic Fatigue) and change in Support Factor (Compression Modulus). The thickness of the foam will change the firmness a bit, but you'll notice the feel a bit less when placed deep down as opposed to directly on top. From your phone call earlier I would advise you to keep what you currently have, as it is working quite well for you. If over time the core gets a bit too soft, I would simply replace it with a new piece. The latex you're using on top should last a very long time. Good luck!
Thanks for the information. I now see that there is no set rule for core thickness. It is a matter of personal preference. I have 2 really good latex toppers. The 4inch core is just right not to firm not too soft. If the 4inch poly foam core softens then I will add a couple of inches to the core. For right now I will let it be. That was good advice. Thank you.
I'm sorry, but I'm not an expert at what passes for a good seat for a bike. The general consensus is that less padding is better, as it reduces the contact area. Most better seats are thinly padded, using medium to higher density polyurethane foams. You'll seat add-on seat cushions in bike shops, many containing visco-elastic foam, but these can actually cause the setto be uncomfortable in longer rides. See this article: www.cyclingweekly.com/news/product-news/the-best-bike-saddles-4525
I'm not sure what you mean by "Proprietary" foam, but 85 kgM3 translates to foam that is about 5.3 lb. density, which is a common density for a good memory foam or a firmer Dunlop latex foam.
Hi Ann. Thanks for the question. Not to get too complicated, but that's something for which a complete answer would take pages upon pages of explanation, so in lieu of that, I'll provide a few links and make some general statements to help simplify things. Here's a great article about what exactly is a VOC ( www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/technical-overview-volatile-organic-compounds#1 ). Here are some good FAQs about VOCs ( iaqscience.lbl.gov/faq ). Here's a third article with a simple introduction to VOCs ( iaqscience.lbl.gov/voc-summary ). The reason I'm providing this information is that there is an incredible amount of misinformation out there about the actual definition of a VOC, including quite a bit of green-washing within the mattress industry. As far as being able to measure the VOCs currently being emitted by your finished mattress, you'd have to take the product to a certified lab measuring such things, and even then the information you'd receive would be quite confusing and in most instances not something you'd be able to relate to any specific standards. There are differences in the classification of VOCs, the actual definition of a VOC, and the methods of measurement (temperature, pressure, chamber size, time for measurement, air changes, what VOCs are actually measured, levels of detection, and so on). There's also debate on what concentration of certain VOCs can be problematic. And not all tests are able to capture all VOCs, and even then identifying the specific VOC compounds can be problematic. So you could receive a number from a lab that stated 556 ppb of VOCs and you'd wonder what to do with that information, as you'd have to go into much more detailed analysis of the results to determine if any of the specific compound concentrations were of a level that might be considered harmful by different testing organizations. There really is no "one universally accepted scale" of VOCs against which all results can be measured. The most useful thing you may get from a lab measurement might be a reading that was very high, maybe over 10,000 ppb as an example, which most researchers would probably consider problematic or a cause for concern. As a consumer, your best bet is to look for mattresses that use materials which have already been tested to pass certain "safety certifications", such as CertiPUR-US, Oeko-Tex, eco-institut and so on. Tests like these will have their own protocols and test for their own specific compounds and harmful substances at levels they deem appropriate, but at least you would have a very basic "health certificate" as a starting point. I know that is a really long answer to your question (and trust me, I simplified the response as much as I could while still being informative), but I hope the response and the links provided are useful to you.
THANK YOU! So informative! We got an inner spring with pillow top (medium/soft) and I aired it out for a week with a large fan, AC, & air purifier. After that, I had zero physical allergic reaction and now I can sleep at night because of the right softness. No more neck & shoulder pain. I didn't realize how important that is!
Some people are more sensitive to odors than others from new furniture and mattresses (not all VOCs have odors), and it is common that with an initial airing out the items will cause less sensitivity. These sensitivities can come from the foam in the mattress, the ticking, the wood in the foundation...even the plastic used to wrap the product. Everyone is different. People with Multiple Chemical Sensitivities (MCS) can have an especially difficult time with new furniture, and even new car interiors. But this tends to abate rather quickly.
This is obviously a very simple comparison of the properties of the two different foams, not a scientific analysis or rating of ILD/IFD, density or compression modulus, or anything else of that nature. The size is inconsequential and the simple comparison is valid regardless of size.
Good info to know. Thanks. Now we need human bodies dropping/laying/rolling on different foam type mattresses to get a perspective on how the mattresses differ.
Testing out the foams is your job! :) Different somatotypes will respond differently to different foams, and those foams can vary in thickness, density, ILD/IFD and shape. Your personal affinity for a certain product should be your ultimate guide, and personal testing will be the only way for you to make that determination.
Andres Agredo The allergic reaction to latex of which you speak is not common with latex foam. Read this: www.matt-to-go.com/uploads/Dept_HHS_Latex_Allergy_Conference.doc
+Matthew Welch Talalay latex will generally be your most breathable foam, followed by polyurethane and Dunlop latex. The least breathable will generally be visco-elastic foam. Of course there are variations with densities and reticulation, but this would be a good general guideline.
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I have stumbled onto this video by accident. But, I want to say THANK YOU. You have provided consumers with valuable information to arm us when we go out in the trenches to purchase a mattress. I do not live in the USA, I live in Canada. Now I will research about Canadian manufacturers & also about what policies are in place regarding Flame Retardent chemicals. Truely honest, straight up people like you are my kind of people. Again, thank you for all the "Beducation".
+Tara Cox I'm glad you found the information useful. Good luck in your search.
These Beducation videos are actually really informative; I'm glad I stumbled across them. So many bed buying "tips" videos are just badly narrated filler and opinions to put in front of a website advertisement, but I actually learned about bed construction and sales practices from the Beducation videos. I mean, even the fact that I've sat here and watched four videos about _beds_ of all things (it is TH-cam, after all...I could be watching cute cat videos) proves they're pretty interesting, haha. You have a great presence for this; feels like I'm watching a documentary on "how it's made" or something.
+krycekno There recently has been an explosion of so called mattress research and review sites, and these are nothing more than REVENUE sites where they get paid referral fees for people buying through the links they produce on their web sites. This is the new method of advertising with many mattress companies, including almost every online mattress brand. BEWARE!
@nickjhowe Glad you liked it - that's exactly how I wanted the video to be perceived. Appreciate it!
My parents are starting to have issues with their mattress. My mom and dad hips, back, sides is hurting. They’ve had the mattress for over 5 years now... the pains started a few months ago. Thank You for your response...
I can't diagnose online why your parents are uncomfortable when sleeping and have these issues. I can only offer general suggestions. Most pains/back issues are environmentally related and a result of one's level of fitness/strength or pre-existing conditions. Mattresses generally don't cause these problems, but they can contribute to their exacerbation or slow the restoration process. As my friend Mark Kinsley from Englander says, a poor mattress can "keep your pain alive". It's unlikely that something happened to the mattress just a few months ago to cause an issue (like flipping a light switch), unless it was moved and damaged. It's more likely that something changed in your parents' life if the onset of this was sudden. If it was a gradual change, it could be that the mattress no longer suits their specific needs. If the mattress is one of the "typical" larger brand names out there, it very well could be at the end of its useful comfort life, as many of these products use lower density foams that seem to lose quite a bit of their support factor in the 4-5 year range. If this is the case, your parents should seek an educated comfort consultant who can guide them through the mattress buying process and help explain to them the difference in comfort materials and their quality and help them make an educated decision, finding componentry that is appropriate to what seems to be some very specific needs. Good luck!
Excellent explanation. Not too technical, but deep enough to explain the 'why' they are like they are. Thx!
@andy74123 Andy, visco-elastic memory foam is technically a specialized style of polyurethane foam that slowly recovers and is temperature senstive. There's a wide range of quality, softness and recovery speed within visco-elastic foam offerings. Latex foam isn't polyurethane - it's vulcanized rubber. The terms visco-elastic and memory foam refer to the same thing. If you squeeze your topper product and it slowly "reinflates" then it's probably safe to assume it's some type of memory foam.
I appreciate you taking time to explain this, thank you.
So glad I found these videos.
I'm glad you found them useful!
Good comparison. So which foam is better for which conditions? Thanx...Chris
Your question is much too broad for any sort of a meaningful reply, as these of course could be thousands of "conditions" one could create.
Excellent video, very informative. Thanks for taking the time to educate those interested in buying a new mattress.
+Joe S Thank you Joe. I'm glad I could help out.
The latex we offer (pure LatexBLISS) doesn't off gas (only water), doesn't smell and doesn't absorb moisture. It's exactly the opposite. A premium virgin talalay latex is open-cell, breathable and not temperature sensitive. Plus, the ActiveFusion technology helps to dissipate heat even more. The problems you describe are commonly associated with visco-elastic memory foam.
I really appreciate how this gentleman is a great expert in his trade 👏👏👏 I would like to buy a bed from him certainly 😄👏👏🇦🇺
Thank you!
How long do latex mattresses last? I have had my pillowtop mattress for 6 years and I am shopping for a longer lasting quality mattress.
+Christina Rutherford It's not unusual for people to keep latex mattresses over 20 years, and if you're considering a premium all-latex product (not a poly foam core product with a little latex on top) that certainly would be within the realm of possibility. However, I always recommend that you reevaluate your premium mattress after a decade and then yearly after that.
Comparing same density and depth, which is better for pressure point relief? Visco memory foam or Latex? (I once had a memory foam that was like sleeping on a cloud but can't remember the density. I think it was very very soft and felt wonderul. I'm still trying to find another one like it.) Also do I understand correctly that not all memory foams are created equally in that visco elastic is not the same as polyurethane member foam?
Both materials are very point elastic and can provide good pressure point relief, but they have different feels. Latex is more buoyant and memory foam has more of a dead feel. People tend to prefer one versus the other. Also, realize that the overall feel is subject to the entire sleep system, as it works as a complete unit. Density and plushness is an almost direct relationship in latex (higher density equates to a harder feel), but not necessarily in memory foam. For use in mattresses, almost all memory foam will be in a very ultra plush range of comfort (lower ILD), but there can be variations in recovery rate, glass transition temperature, breathability, sensitivity to heat (viscous nature) and so on, that can change how the memory foam feels. Technically, memory foam is a slow recovery type of polyurethane foam, and yes, not all memory foam is created equally. There are variations in quality (density), as well as some of the characteristics that I previously mentioned.
Sir you are an expert !!!! I want to ask what do recommend for side sleeper ? Memory or polyeth.?
Comfort is subjective. Generally speaking, for a side sleeper you want enough surface comfort to allow for some point elasticity around the shoulder, waist and hips. But not so much of a drop that you induce lateral curvature. Maintaining a more neutral alignment is key. How much comfort material on top depends upon the individual and their dimensions. You can achieve good comfort for a side sleeper using latex, memory foam, and polyurethane, or a combination of these items for your comfort layers.
@canoeshoe In general, latex foam and norma polyurethane foam don't change comfort as the ambient temperature changes in your bedroom. Visco-elastic foam, even the never ventilated versions, still change comfort as they become cooler or warmer.
Very informative. Like other commenters below, I am also happy that I accidentally stumbled upon this video!
+KenGLaP I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
Hi and thanks for the demonstration,
which one do you think is better for sound absorption?
I know it is not typical but I guess latex foam will be a good sound insulator, may you tell your opinion as an expert?
Unfortunately, I know nothing about acoustics. That's a question best left to an expert in that field. I did find some really interesting information about sound absorption and soundproofing and foams from this company: acousticalsolutions.com/how-to-soundproof-acoustic-foam-does-not-block-sound/ . You can even email questions to the expert on that page.
@@BeducationMattress Thanks a lot.
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Every piece of foam will have an individual IFD. If the manufacturer is trying to make a harder feeling foam, it will have a higher IFD number (like 36), If the foam is softer feeling, the IFD will be lower (like 19).
@ericjakob I'm not sure of the makeup of the mattress you're talking about but in general memory foam wouldn't be the answer. You'll need something stiffer and more resilient. One of the best replacement ones I've ever found (without an innersrping) was a special zoned high-density polyurethane foam called Conformafoam. I'm sure this is produced under different names for various companies, but in general you'll want to look for a firm and higher density polyurethane foam product.
Thank you for all the great info on all your Beducations. I guess Latex is the way to go for me with all my ailments. Only thing I worry about is it going to be to stiff like laying on a board and aside from my muscle and bone problems I have respiratory problems and am concerned about the odor it gives off...I also, say Latex because I live in Florida, My bedroom is the warmest in the house even with the air going and I tend to be warm.
Great Video! Very educating.
Thanks!
After doing tons of research I purchased a latex mattress topper a year or so ago. Initially I enjoyed the new feel of it. It was softer and a lot more enjoyable than my previous mattress which felt more like a wooden block.(I use it as the base now) But overtime ive realised that it's not actually helping me for my intended purposes. I weigh around 80kgs and i am a side sleeper and the latex topper is not able to relieve my pressure points like my shoulder and hips and I've very had neck pain and back pain because of it. I feel the topper is too bouncy and resilient for my weight even at a medium density.
Interestingly, I purchased another mattress with a memory foam for my other room and that feels a lot more firm than my latex topper. I really thought it would be soft and sink in but it wasn't like that. Its not the most comfortable mattress ive tried but sleeping on that occasionally feels like a relief (which is kinda disappointing since my topper costs almost twice as much)
I am thinking of getting something else. Any advise? Should I go for a topper again or a whole mattress? Should I change materials or should i stick to latex and go for something softer? I can't really figure it out honestly
Unfortunately, picking out a mattress for you online isn't something that I can do with any sort of accuracy. I'll try to address some of the comments you made, but much of the information you provided is incomplete so I'll have to make some assumptions and reply in very general terms which I hope are helpful.
A topper of any type will generally provide extra plushness to what it is placed upon, but it has no choice but to conform to what it is placed upon, and the feel of the topper is primarily determined by what it is placed upon. If you put it on something very hard, then your overall sleep surface will still feel very hard, but just with a bit of surface plushness.
You don't mention the type of latex, the thickness, or the ILD or density of the topper, but assuming a common 3" Talalay latex topper in the mid-20s ILD (you mentioned a "medium density") will provide a bit of extra plushness when placed upon what you describe as a "wooden block". But something of only 3" would unlikely be the cause of back issues, and most neck issues tend to be pillow related. I would guess that the underlying issue if that the mattress under the latex topper is overall too hard. I have to guess here, as I have no specifics upon the exact construction of the product. The "pushback" and "resilience" you're relating to the topper would primarily be from the mattress underneath the topper. It's quite possible that you'd need a more substantial build-up of materials atop this mattress to meet your very specific needs, but this isn't something I recommend you pursue.
As for your other purchase, you provide even less information, so I really can't comment at all upon that set up. My best guess would be that it contours a bit better to you when you're on your side, and as far as overall comfort it's probably a step in the right direction.
What to purchase next? My best advice would be to find an educated comfort consultant at a store in your area who can assess your body type, sleeping style, previous history, and recommend something with componentry that will better suit you. I don't recommend purchasing a mattress with a topper right away as a general rule, as you're immediately throwing an extra variable into the mix. I'd suggest trying to find something that as a complete mattress better suits your needs. As a side sleeper who seems to have chosen items that are too hard feeling, I'd suggest something that offers good deep support for a more neutral alignment, but also has good surface conforming characteristics to assist with allowing the hips and shoulders to sink a bit and distribute your mass over a bit of a wider area.
Good luck!
@@BeducationMattress fantastic assumptions and thank you for taking the time to reply.
so let me address what I can.
The base mattress is an old coir-spring mattress ad its very hard surface, its hardish. If i put my knee on it, it goes down quite a bit at that spot. but when I lie down on it and my weight gets distributed, there is hardly any sinking in- perhaps even less than a quarter of an inch - maybe.
My later topper is 3 inches in thickness and IDL I believe is 22. it sinks in but has a lot of bounce and pushback. perhaps its too resilient for my weight. when I lie down on it, and Ive measured this, some spots like my shouldres sink in by 1/2 max, much less any advertising or video suggests. the topper sinking in only by half an inch means that atleat 2 inches of the topper is unaffected by my weight and I dont think the base is in anyway affected enough to play a role currently
since I wrote my questions, I have removed that topper (which i have been using for a year) and gone back to directly sleeping on the base mattress and I am surprised at how relieved my shoulder and neck feel because that wasnt the case before I purchaed the topper.
even though the coir-spring mattress is hard, I feel less presssure on my shoulders for sure. granted its only been a 3 times that I have slept on it and so I am going to do this for 30 days before I decide what to buy next.
rest of your insight seems logical as well.
Thanks, once again
A mattress that uses coir atop of springs will tend to have a bit of a higher surface tension. How much depends upon the concentration and the thickness of the coir, as well as the type of spring unit upon which the coir is placed, and the type of foundation (active versus solid). There is more contouring and deflection going on in the combined sleep set than what you observe at the surface and relate to only 1/4".
As for your description of the topper and how it is working for you, it is important to realize that all of the layers within a sleep system (foundation, mattress comfort layers) work in unison, versus sequentially. So again, your topper/mattress combination is deflecting more than you relate in your comments. This can be difficult to conceptualize and wouldn't be something to which most people would relate unless they were in the business of designing and engineering sleep systems (which wouldn't be too many people).
Generally, increasing the surface comfort on a product that is too hard will tend to relieve pressure point issues for a side sleeper. But adding surface plushness to something that allows for too much sink (perhaps with poorer support characteristics) can negatively impact alignment and cause more issues.
All of this points back to my first statement about the inability to pick a product for someone online. It tends to be a bit of folly. Despite one's best efforts to be accurate in their descriptions, it's difficult for a layperson to provide an accurate representation of the state of the componentry within an existing mattress, which is why it's so much better to visit with someone who is knowledgeable in person and then relate your impressions in real time on products that are presented to you for testing. That's what I do with all of my clients - I tend to not focus too much on their old products, but instead look for componentry in a new mattress that tends to be appropriate.
There was a good article I ran across a few years ago on The Mattress Underground that described how mattress layers work in unison if that is of interest to you, but I don't have the link. That site might also be a good resource for finding an educated comfort consultant or business close to where you live.
Good luck!
@@BeducationMattress thank you again for taking the time. the search for answers goes on. but i understood that this is something that has to be tried to know more. I will check the resource you mentioned as well.
Good luck in your search!
@blckjade05 Foams aren't impact resistant, but visco-elastic memory foam is the best at deadening motion, as that is its original design. The number one culprit for motion transfer in a mattress is your metal bedframe.
After watching this video I decided on lawyering latex on top of memory foam! Hopefully it'll give me the cooling effect, as sleeping on just my memory foam topper is a little too hot
Placing a layer of latex on top of a typical memory foam construction can be quite comfortable, and it certainly will assist a bit with heat dispersion. Talalay latex will be more breathable than Dunlop latex, generally speaking. Good luck!
+Mattress To Go feels good on my bed but the true test comes tonight when I get to sleep! Lol, great info and I'm sure it's helped many others
Thank you - good luck!
Can you do a utube for mattress choices for heavy sleepers? Most mattresses are made for people within a certain weight but what if you are outside this?
Thanks for the suggestion. It's on the list, but I'm afraid it's a ways down in the order. With larger individuals, it's imperative that they choose comfort materials that are durable and maintain their resiliency under higher mechanical stress. This would generally be higher density (and not too soft) polyurethane foams, more dense natural fibers, and latex foam rubber. Nanocoil and microcoils can also be durable comfort layers, as well as some higher quality buckling column gels in the deeper upholstery layers. For the support core, firmer latex can be appropriate, along with higher density, firmer high resiliency polyurethane foam, and stronger innerspring units. These are just some quick, general guidelines.
@@BeducationMattress are there any mattresses you would recommend? My husband is around 270. We are always getting a dip in our mattress. We are considering pocket coil with 3 to 4 inches of latex. What do you think? Ghost bed natural tala latex - 'or silk and snow organic dunlop latex? Or should we go to a private company that customizes where you can switch out the layers like get 2 inches of dunlop and 2 inches of tala. It's really hard shopping right now because most mattress companies do not include latex in their mattresses.
I'm sorry, but I couldn't begin to make any sort of an accurate recommendation for a specific mattress via an online forum. To do so would be a disservice. You're best served by seeking items using the higher quality components about which I previously wrote. There area a few people I respect producing pocketed spring mattresses with latex on top, and they in general are not a fan of that combination with larger individuals, instead preferring some sort of all-latex configuration (using firmer latex for the support core). But this is a general statement. There are other good and solid materials out there besides latex, and with over 500 companies nationally producing mattresses, there are plenty who manufacture lines using higher quality componentry (polyfoam above 1.8 pound in density, pre-compressed cotton and wool, medium-plush to firmer Talalay or Dunlop latex, etc.). There's a good guide somewhere on The Mattress Underground that discusses items for larger individuals that you might find interesting.
I got a hybrid mattress. In your opinion is a Centi-pur certified mattress relatively nontoxic in it memoryfoam? Thanks for this great video.
The term "relatively nontoxic" isn't an objective standard for which an item can be tested (although most people I think would get the gist of what you're meaning), so standards like CertiPUR-US do have some specific things for which they test (which I think most people would agree are good things to evaluate).
If the polyurethane FOAMS used in a mattress are CertiPUR-US certified, it means that they are:
-made without PBDEs
-made without heavy metals
-made without formaldehyde
-made without phthalates regulated by CPSC
-low VOC certified (< .5 ppm)
-made without ozone depleters
certipur.us/ has more complete details on the testing process and actual requirements for foams to meet these standards.
@@BeducationMattress thank you. I looked up Centi-Pur's list of mattress manufacturers and Linenspa, the bed I just purchased, had some sort of vague notation that didn't seem to ensure they were Centi-pur certified currently. I'm ok so far, no symptoms. Thank you for the detailed answer
The CertiPUR-US website states for Linenspa: "This company is on record as using CertiPUR-US® certified foam, but updated directory listing information is currently unavailable." So, they simply haven't updated some of their company category information with CertiPUR-US, which needs to be done on a yearly basis.
@@BeducationMattress I feel better now. I had gotten a Zinus innerspeing mattress and got the worst low back pain, so got the Linenspa hybrid my first memory foam.
That's great if the new mattress is working better for you. Unfortunately, there's no one mattress or material that's guaranteed to relieve low back issues. We can only evaluate products based upon the quality of their componentry to help determine/rank for an expected consistent comfort life. I'm happy you feel better now.
Thank you for this great and useful information. I'm in the market for a mattress, but I am not sure what to go with. I tend to stay away from synthetic, chemical materials. What about gel infused mattresses, do they really give a cooler effect? I have read many mixed reviews on this topic. Does it matter if I go with a latex/spring if I want to have a adjustable bed? Will a organic cover help with the chemicals and bed bugs? Thank you.
All foams have chemicals in them (even latex), but that doesn't necessarily mean that the product is harmful. Safety is certainly an important concern and you want to make sure that any foams you consider are at least CertiPUR-US certified for polyurethane. While gels (and to a greater extended phase changing gels) can assist with conduction of heat, the claims of the industry tend to be greatly exaggerated. Most effects are for initial surface touch and these gels tend to load quite rapidly. Specifically, these foams will not act like a heat sink. As for an adjustable bed, we've always recommended an all-latex mattress. It best puts up with the specific weight concentrations and bending produced by a power foundation. A cover will not have anything to do with chemical filtration. An organic certified (GOTS) cover will meet the Global Organic Textile Standards and have fewer synthetics in it (must be at least 95% organic certified componentry). For bed bugs, you'd want to make sure that whatever cover you are using has a zipper that is certified as bed bug proof. The organic nature of the cover wouldn't matter one way or the other in that case. as it relates to bed bugs. That would simply be a personal preference.
Is a 4.5" memory foam matress sufficient to not feel the bar on a sofabed? If not what would be the best matress to replace my sofabed matress with?
I have torn ligaments behind my tailbone and pelvis and need pressure relief #1. Which foam do you recommend? Memory foam, the latex, or the newer generation of polyurethane foams? I'm debating between a sleep number iLE and a sealy copper II plush. Sleep Number's foam is propietary and I wonder if they use the newer poly foams that mimic memory foam?
I'm sorry to hear of your injury. While pressure relief certainly is important for your particular situation, you'll also need to make sure that whatever product you choose has excellent support/alignment characteristics. Latex is excellent at pressure point relief in appropriate ILDs, and when combined with other latex layers or with a good marshall spring unit it can be very good at pressure point relief, as it is very point elastic and supportive. Visco-elastic foam is also quite point elastic and is good at pressure point relief, but it will be more reliant upon the basic foam / spring unit under it for proper alignment and support, so pay attention to that. 4-5 pound density would be a decent quality of visco-elastic foam in general. Some of the newer generation of high density polyurethane foams can also be quite durable and good at pressure point relief, but would also depend upon how they were combined and ordered within a particular mattress. As you have a very specific condition, I'd strongly recommend testing out items in person, and learning about the quality of the components within the mattress before making any purchase decision. Good luck!
I'm glad this was useful.
What do you say about HR(high resilience) P.U foam? I tried it in one of the stores and it felt good and affordable too. The warranty in the product is a good 15 years. How does it compare with memory foam and latex?
High resilience polyurethane foam is defined as 2.5 lb density or above, with a compression modulus of 2.4 or above. Much of the polyurethane foam marketed as high resilience, especially by mattress companies, is in fact not true high resilience foam. If it is truly high resilience polyurethane foam, this can be a very durable and better quality material. It is a totally different material from memory foam (which is essentially a polyurethane foam that is made to "spring back" slowly with a viscous nature), and latex, which is foamed rubber and generally considered the most durable of all comfort foam materials.
Oh, and I forgot to mention, the warranty tells you absolutely nothing about the quality of componentry, so having a 15 year warranty is not a part of evaluating the quality of mattress componentry, and I would place little emphasis on that.
Can I Buy a Mattress From You? I Appreciate your video. I've had a Tempur-pedic Pillow for Yrs. & my intention was to buy their mattress soon, however, I wanted a New Pillow 1st. It's NOT what it used to be~ Now, it's Soft , 3" Shorter and Not Like my old one! I'm afraid to buy one from them now. I want a Contour Elete Firm Mattress! Can you help?
Hello Elizabeth. Sorry to hear about your pillow, but all foams will soften with use over time, and not all pillows with the Tempurpedic label on them are the same. Yes, we do ship all over the country, but we do not offer Tempurpedic products. We do offer a very high quality memory foam product, but unless you are close to our store in Michigan it would be a bit risky having you buy it without trying it, as it is custom made for us here in Michigan and not something available nationally to sample at a local store. Anytime you change a single layer within a mattress you change the feel, so attempting to match one mattress to another "known" mattress is often a quite futile task dealing specifically with the specifications - even expert mattress foam and spring engineers can't tell what a mattress will feel like until they assemble it and try it out in person. If you're not local to my store and want to order something online that tends to have offerings that "mimic" some of the Tempurpedic models, you may wish to investigate Christeli memory foam beds (I'm not affiliated with them). They do make some nice products and some of their models have a base that can be flipped to offer different levels of comfort to lessen the risk of buying online. I hope that helps.
What about TPU foam?? How are they produced?
Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU) is not a normal mattress cushioning material. Here are a few links describing TPU and the process for creating and 3D printing: blog.trimech.com/know-your-materials-tpu-92a
www.hexpol.com/tpe/resources/tpe-academy/what-is-tpe/what-is-tpu/
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoplastic_polyurethane
plastics-rubber.basf.com/emea/en/performance_polymers/products/infinergy.html
Thank you so much for your video. It was very helpful and I wish there were more bed experts like you near where I lived! It is my first time shopping for a bed and I tried to do some research online but I just have no idea where to start. I sometimes have back pain from very mild scoliosis, weigh around 58kg (128lbs), but looking for a budget mattress since I am a graduate student. I live in New Zealand so hot and humid in the summer, and wet and cold in the winter. If you have any advise, it would be greatly appreciated! :) Thank you so much.
I'm glad the video was helpful. I know it can be difficult finding something in a limited budget range that works well for you, so you'll have to manage your expectations a bit. As you have a pre-existing condition of scoliotic curvature, and maintaining a more neutral alignment is the most important thing done by a mattress, focus first upon the support unit within the mattress. If it's an all-foam bed, try to find something with a firmer polyurethane foam core of 1.8 lb. in density. If you can't find that in your price range, try to find something that is a firmer core of 1.5 lb. density. As for the surface cushioning, again here you'll probably be limited by your budget. Good sleep ergonomic research will recommend "just enough" cushioning to get the job done, so you don't necessarily need something that is overly plush (again protecting your alignment with your slight scoliosis). Avoid the temptation of buying something that uses multiple layers of very low density foam, and instead try to find something that is using better density cushioning foam (in your price range hopefully you can find 1.5 lb. density). I'm not aware of what you have available in your area in New Zealand, but your best values are probably going to be from all polyurethane foam products (foam core and cushioning layers) or a more basic innerspring product using polyurethane foam for the cushioning layers. Your budget will probably be best served by avoiding memory foam or latex cushioning layers, as those can be more costly. Good luck!
How can you tell if the Latex mattress you have is all latex, or polyfoam in the middle? I have one from 13 years ago which is a Natures Rest Composure which has been great but the impressions from where we sleep are large now and I want to replace it. The market has changed radically and foam is all the rage now. I think I will get another latex mattress but now I am questioning if I should get one which is latex all the way through or not. I think we spent $2200 back 13 years ago and I see some now in the $4,000 range. Not sure I want to go there, but the latex really was very nice for us (back sleepers some side - Normal sized people - 200 lb / 130 lb). Love your videos, wish you were in Massachusetts I would be down today shopping
Thank you for the compliments. Without taking the cover off of your product and looking at the foam, you could look at the law tag and see in the content section if "polyurethane foam" is listed in a significant percentage. I don't know the specifications of the Natures Rest Composure from 13 years ago - even their web site from back them is incomplete. Their N-Balance line did use some polyfoam I know. Regardless, the first thing I would do would be to check that your foundation is perfectly flat and unforgiving and that you have proper center reinforcement under that. Those things can all contribute to the product sagging. Next, I would look for all-latex mattresses that approximate the feel you desire. You didn't mention what size you have, but even a king all-latex mattress can be had very affordably (well under $4000). There are also many component-style systems available where you can change your comfort over time and customize on the left and right sides. As latex has worked well for you in the past, I would start with that and not worry so much about trying to duplicate what you have, but find a comfort range that works for you. That's my best advice. Hope it helps.
Thank you that helps a lot. It is Nature Made (house brand by Sleepys made by Natures Rest) and indeed the law tag has 90% polyurethane foam and then lower (without a percentage) it says "Latex foam rubber core". I will start shopping for all latex. It is a king that I am shopping for. To be specific the sagging is more of an indentation in the upper pad where we lie (the mattress looks like it has a pad similar to a pillow top, then the core below it). It is not a slump in the center. Thanks again though. I know you ship as well, not sure if that would make sense but would be curious what some pricing would look like. Do you have customers out of state you ship to?
If the law tag is correct, and per your description, it would most likely be that you have polyfoam in the quilt, and then probably a layer of latex under that, with a polyfoam core for the base (if 90% of the mattress is indeed polyfoam). This would explain the body impressions you're experiencing, which would be mostly from the polyfoam in the quilt. While we do ship our products, we currently don't ship our Pure Talalay Bliss products. I don't have a recommendation for you regarding a particular brand (that's not what i do here with the videos), but I can say you have many quality options out there for what you're looking to do.
@hodman57 You're welcome. Glad you liked the video.
Hi Jeff, I am in the market for a new mattress.I was set on pure latex but some(ok, an online company) are saying it is not comfortable because it pushes against you causing one huge pressure point and that is why it springs back so fast.I take this with a grain of salt and know this part of marketing but still wonder if there is some truth to this.
As I think you're already aware, blanket statements like what you described aren't accurate and in the end generally lead you to a product that someone is hawking. Latex will be more resilient than most foams, but like any product, it's offered in varying ILDs to accommodate various sleeping styles, somatotypes and personal preferences. And of course, the overall feel of any mattress is a combination of all materials, and some people may have an affinity for latex, while others at prefer memory foam, natural fibers or polyurethane foam. There is no one correct answer - you just want to make sure that whatever you choose is made of high quality materials and constructed well. As far as using other people's opinions, that would be the absolute least reliable way of picking out a mattress, as what might feel best for someone else has nothing to do with you and your particular needs.
@ISybreedI I'm glad the video was helpful to you.
Jeff, a high density PU foam, why does this open cell foam type have reflex issues when compression packed for 6 months plus?
All foams experience various degrees of change in compression modulus, as well as other measured parameters, when compressed for longer periods of time. There are various factors involved, such as the amount of compression, folding, humidity, along with the specific type of foam and the very specific qualities of that foam. If you have questions about recommended length of time or amount of compression for specific type of foam, those questions would be best answered by the manufacturer of that foam, as they would have gone through their own durability testing of that particular foam formulation and know best the recommendations for appropriate treatment of their material.
@@BeducationMattress Cheers Jeff for the info!
You're welcome.
@spunkymonkey75 Glad you liked the video. Thanks for the feedback.
very helpful thank you so much. the best video on youtube about foam, trust me ive been looking.
thank you for the explanation. I want to start selling poufs that are 100% natural. do you recommend latex foam to stuff the poufs? I want them to be firm, yet comfortable. Thank you so much for your answer.
If you wanted to use a foam stuffing material that is "more natural" than not, you certainly could select latex. While it isn't "100% Natural", you can find quite a bit of Dunlop latex that is GOLS (Global Organic Latex Standard) certified (95+% natural content) if that is important for your story in the production and marketing of your product. For firmness, this would depend upon the density of the Dunlop latex used (higher density = harder feeling), and if it is shredded latex, you would also vary the size of the shredded chunks to achieve your desired level of comfort.
what about nontemperature sensitive foam? is that true?
Dunno why rating is disabled, this is very useful info.
I'm glad you found the video useful. We've had to filter all comments, as over time we've received some very off-color comments from mattress retailers who are upset with us for empowering consumers with honest objective mattress information. It's sad, but true. Too many in the industry want consumers to be uninformed so that they may continue to sell their lower-quality products. Thanks for your kind words.
Wonderful review!! You should have been a Chemistry Professor :)
can you mix latex foam and memory foam together? I'm looking for a deadening effect from the memory foam but with a instant recovery as much as possible, there is no specific memory foam that does this is there, it has a latency in its recovery.
You may mix memory foam with anything you like! There are more variations appearing on the market with different speeds of recovery (faster seems to be more popular these days), but a ball rebound of less than 20% or so is usually considered normal for memory foam. If you are most partial to the feel of memory foam but don't want too much "sink", then you could create a component system using memory foam for the uppermost layer and then latex immediately beneath. If you like the "dead" feel of memory foam but not initially when lying down upon the mattress, place your latex layer as the uppermost layer within the mattress, then place your memory foam layer immediately beneath. One of my favorite old mattresses was one that used latex on top with memory foam beneath. It had a slightly buoyant feel, but also a bit of "deadness". A bit of the best of both worlds. I should note that some of the newer generations of higher density plush polyurethane specialty foams have a plushness similar to memory foam, yet have a higher ball rebound, fast recovery, and little to no viscous nature.
Mattress To Go sorry I should have been clear I meant chemically can they be mixed to produce a different compounds
Ah, I understand. No worries. While I'm not a foam engineer or chemist, it has been discussed before mixing polyurethane foam (technically memory foam is just slow recovery polyurethane foam) with latex in different manners. Your question reminded me of a few patents I came across on this subject years ago when there was a company claiming to have a "natural" memory foam with latex in it. European Patent Application (EPA) EP0959099A1 and EP2511327A2 describe such a process. I have notes stating foam company Vefer made something according to the process in EP0959099AQ1 but found the results to be unsatisfactory, but I can't find the follow-up article stating the specifics. So to answer your question, yes, it does seem to be possible, but results currently aren't where the industry would like them to be, and there seems to be much more investigation and creation in the newer generation of high-performance plush polyurethane foams with many of the comforts of memory foam, but with less of the viscous nature and heat-retentive qualities.
I've heard that latex foam can develop mold?
About anything can grow mold if the environment is hospitable. You need an organic food source (quite often skin cells when referencing a mattress). You need a warmer temperature (upper 70s to mid 80s Fahrenheit). You need a humid environment. You need oxygen. There's your recipe. While mold is unable to digest inorganic material, it can thrive on organic material placed upon inorganic material, such as dust that contains quite a bit of skin cells that can accumulate between a box spring and a mattress. Latex foam is often represented as being inhospitable to mold formation, as it tends to flow quite a bit of air and not trap so much moisture. This is one of the reasons that latex foam is popular for use in the marine world. However, if you place any type of foam in an environment that is humid, warm and full of organic material, you can get mold to grow.
Thank you so much for this video, I think my new choice of matress will be heavenly
Are there 100% Talalay Latex foam mattresses (one's that don't use a base foundation)? Would you recommend them?
Yes, there are dozens of companies making such a product. Technically, a mattress that uses a polyurethane foam base with latex on top isn't a latex mattress - it would be some sort of a hybrid. I recommend all-latex products for their durability and consistent level of comfort.
Thank you, how would a latex foam mattress compare to the technology being used in the "purple" mattress, my one concern with the purple mattress is it hasn't been around very long but it seems very supportive and responsive...
Buckling columns perform very differently from foams in how they compress. You'd have to try out a product like that personally to gauge the level of "responsiveness".
which one would you recommend that is nontoxic?
I think you're referring to something that you personally would consider most "safe", as everything can be toxic, which is dosage dependent. What I would tell you to look for would be testing certifications from independent third party groups that test for harmful substances and VOCs, such as Oeko-Tex, Eco Institut, Cradle To Cradle or Greenguard Gold, just to name a few. The one foam that would be found to most easily pass these certifications would be latex.
How about high resilient??
High resiliency polyfoam tends to be a durable level of quality. Technically something that has at least a 2.5# density with a compression modulus of at least 2.4.
I would tell you to take a look at the pure LatexBLISS line of latex beds, based upon your comments. It gives you the buoyant feel you'll only get from a premium latex foam. If you try those out and like them, let us know. We ship them nationally at the lowest prices you'll find.
What is density then?
Density is mass per unit volume (sometimes I slip up and say it is weight, but it technically isn't). Commonly expressed in USA in pounds per cubic foot (I know, a pound isn't a unit of mass, but that's how it's discussed here.). In Europe, more commonly expressed in kg per meter cubed.
What would be better for reducing motion transfer?
As a single foam layer, visco-elastic foam was originally created as a motion dampening foam, with low rebound and high hysteresis. It would be the best foam as minimizing motion transfer, followed generally by latex.
Does the PU foam contain mercury catalysts?
Thank You!
Domestically, flexible polyurethane foam companies have been coming up with different catalysts to substitute for lead and mercury based ones since the 1990s. There's a wide variety of catalysts available depending upon the type of polyurethane foam being produced and the characteristics desired within the foam, and whether it is a gelling or blowing catalyst. Your question is quite broad, and the best source for accurate information would be the actual manufacturer of the specific foam about which you were curious. Also, here are a few links to some catalysts manufacturers that you may find interesting: www.tri-iso.com/polyurethane-catalysts.html and www.intermediates.basf.com/chemicals/pur/catalysts .
@@BeducationMattress Thank you!
@blckjade05 The nature of the product is that there will be some heat retention, varying with density, composition and manufacturing methodology. It's the nature of the beast.
Extremely well explained.
Thanks
does polyurethane foam soften with use. I have a 4 inch 2.5 density 35 ild poly foam mattress. should I get a 7 inch slab instead. my weight is 285 lbs. Will the 4inch slab soften?
+Rudolphe Alexis All foam will soften over time, even premium latex. But there is a large difference in the amount of softening (Flex Fatigue or Dynamic Fatigue) and change in Support Factor (Compression Modulus). The thickness of the foam will change the firmness a bit, but you'll notice the feel a bit less when placed deep down as opposed to directly on top. From your phone call earlier I would advise you to keep what you currently have, as it is working quite well for you. If over time the core gets a bit too soft, I would simply replace it with a new piece. The latex you're using on top should last a very long time. Good luck!
Thanks for the information. I now see that there is no set rule for core thickness. It is a matter of personal preference. I have 2 really good latex toppers. The 4inch core is just right not to firm not too soft. If the 4inch poly foam core softens then I will add a couple of inches to the core. For right now I will let it be. That was good advice. Thank you.
Great info, thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Which foam is best for bike cushion pls tell me
I'm sorry, but I'm not an expert at what passes for a good seat for a bike. The general consensus is that less padding is better, as it reduces the contact area. Most better seats are thinly padded, using medium to higher density polyurethane foams. You'll seat add-on seat cushions in bike shops, many containing visco-elastic foam, but these can actually cause the setto be uncomfortable in longer rides. See this article: www.cyclingweekly.com/news/product-news/the-best-bike-saddles-4525
Is True HD 85kg/m3 Proprietary Foam any good ?
I'm not sure what you mean by "Proprietary" foam, but 85 kgM3 translates to foam that is about 5.3 lb. density, which is a common density for a good memory foam or a firmer Dunlop latex foam.
Very informative and helpful, thank you.
How can I find out what are the VOCs from my mattress?
Hi Ann. Thanks for the question. Not to get too complicated, but that's something for which a complete answer would take pages upon pages of explanation, so in lieu of that, I'll provide a few links and make some general statements to help simplify things. Here's a great article about what exactly is a VOC ( www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/technical-overview-volatile-organic-compounds#1 ). Here are some good FAQs about VOCs ( iaqscience.lbl.gov/faq ). Here's a third article with a simple introduction to VOCs ( iaqscience.lbl.gov/voc-summary ). The reason I'm providing this information is that there is an incredible amount of misinformation out there about the actual definition of a VOC, including quite a bit of green-washing within the mattress industry. As far as being able to measure the VOCs currently being emitted by your finished mattress, you'd have to take the product to a certified lab measuring such things, and even then the information you'd receive would be quite confusing and in most instances not something you'd be able to relate to any specific standards. There are differences in the classification of VOCs, the actual definition of a VOC, and the methods of measurement (temperature, pressure, chamber size, time for measurement, air changes, what VOCs are actually measured, levels of detection, and so on). There's also debate on what concentration of certain VOCs can be problematic. And not all tests are able to capture all VOCs, and even then identifying the specific VOC compounds can be problematic. So you could receive a number from a lab that stated 556 ppb of VOCs and you'd wonder what to do with that information, as you'd have to go into much more detailed analysis of the results to determine if any of the specific compound concentrations were of a level that might be considered harmful by different testing organizations. There really is no "one universally accepted scale" of VOCs against which all results can be measured. The most useful thing you may get from a lab measurement might be a reading that was very high, maybe over 10,000 ppb as an example, which most researchers would probably consider problematic or a cause for concern. As a consumer, your best bet is to look for mattresses that use materials which have already been tested to pass certain "safety certifications", such as CertiPUR-US, Oeko-Tex, eco-institut and so on. Tests like these will have their own protocols and test for their own specific compounds and harmful substances at levels they deem appropriate, but at least you would have a very basic "health certificate" as a starting point. I know that is a really long answer to your question (and trust me, I simplified the response as much as I could while still being informative), but I hope the response and the links provided are useful to you.
THANK YOU! So informative! We got an inner spring with pillow top (medium/soft) and I aired it out for a week with a large fan, AC, & air purifier. After that, I had zero physical allergic reaction and now I can sleep at night because of the right softness. No more neck & shoulder pain. I didn't realize how important that is!
Some people are more sensitive to odors than others from new furniture and mattresses (not all VOCs have odors), and it is common that with an initial airing out the items will cause less sensitivity. These sensitivities can come from the foam in the mattress, the ticking, the wood in the foundation...even the plastic used to wrap the product. Everyone is different. People with Multiple Chemical Sensitivities (MCS) can have an especially difficult time with new furniture, and even new car interiors. But this tends to abate rather quickly.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Thx for the info
You're welcome!
for comparing you should have taken the same size of both memory and latex foam
This is obviously a very simple comparison of the properties of the two different foams, not a scientific analysis or rating of ILD/IFD, density or compression modulus, or anything else of that nature. The size is inconsequential and the simple comparison is valid regardless of size.
Good info to know. Thanks. Now we need human bodies dropping/laying/rolling on different foam type mattresses to get a perspective on how the mattresses differ.
Testing out the foams is your job! :) Different somatotypes will respond differently to different foams, and those foams can vary in thickness, density, ILD/IFD and shape. Your personal affinity for a certain product should be your ultimate guide, and personal testing will be the only way for you to make that determination.
what about if a person is allergic to latex?
Andres Agredo The allergic reaction to latex of which you speak is not common with latex foam. Read this: www.matt-to-go.com/uploads/Dept_HHS_Latex_Allergy_Conference.doc
What about breathability!?
+Matthew Welch Talalay latex will generally be your most breathable foam, followed by polyurethane and Dunlop latex. The least breathable will generally be visco-elastic foam. Of course there are variations with densities and reticulation, but this would be a good general guideline.
WOW!!! Very informative! :)
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it.
I agree with ISybreedl...Very helpful infomation
Very Nice Video :) Thanks
Me at 3am
Nice
Thank you!
👍
Thank you!