Give over and give the guy a break. All these so called 'builders' saying don't use dot and dabs. Like he said he's flaunched the ends so they are sealed up and ants will get anywhere! Also creates a much more level and easy to lay surface. 90% of your 3x2 slabs have dabs under them lift them with a crowbar and see. Try laying 3x2 flags on a bed break your back and end up caked in cack! This guy just shown you how us builders do a proper job. Well done good video keep em coming!
I used to lay m on dry river sand...not keen on spot & dab ..but still nice job...I was a builder since I left school but knackered my back lifting flags like them can't walk now after two back operations..lol...love watching you work reminds me of the good days on site...hope your looking after your back mate.:)
Hi Chris, Complete newbie here. Just wondering how deep you would recommend going if you were putting in a patio & what would be the levels you would use for both hard core & mortar. Thanks.
Hi Chris please advise what you mean by the ends getting flaunched aswell?. also with the 5 dot method as you state if the pile heap is big enough it will spread out. Is there any that can be injected afterwards to fill the voids (if any).
I used the dabs method on a shed base over MOT ten years ago. Still there and no movement or issues. But I had a patio done with same method and after two years was all over the place and all loose. Best to use full coverage on patios due to being walked on.
Dot & dab yes easier for us builders, however not the best for the customer as it allows rat runs and great to for ants... better a full bed of wet mix or dry !! takes longer but its getting the job done right,,!
Incorrect !! They still leave gaps...FACT which allow ants and rat runs.. for sake of little extra work just do full bed....that way job done the correct way..
Still disagree with you bud, ants will get any where- dot and dab has other advantages. If you need to replace, remove etc it will be easier than if the slabs are fully bedded, especially these beasts...Swings and roundabouts dude..The dot and dab originally used by the Council enabled us to re-take up and re-use them, they weren't caked in mortar! Saved us a lot of money..
+Chris Longhurst dot and dab is the single biggest reason for pavement failure, you might get away with it with these big flags but with smaller ones especially that take cars a full bed with a bond bridge is required. Do your homework, it's British standards to provide " uniform support " to paving slabs.
Not a bad job as flagging goes. I'm just in the process of taking some up and re-laying them. Although its hard work at 68. In spite of some of the comments on here mortar dabs are fine for patios and walkways. I use a mix of 1 part of cement to 4 or 5 of sharp sand. Even 1:6 would be ok. For driveways a full bed of wet or dry mix should be used.
@@metallitech I don't think I have ever lifted a 2 inch slab that wasn't dot and dab and before I lifted then they had been in the same place for a decade
Cheers for sharing Chris. Shame about the negative comments. I'd guess the majority of them comes from weak little feathers that would struggle to even lift a 3x2 let alone lay one.. keep up the good work and remember " you can't argue with idiot's "
nice video, some negative comments about rat runs and ants ! load of bollocks,ants are in every garden and rats are not bothered either way. thanks for taking the time.
A rubber hammer isn't really heavy enough to move them 3x2 are about 70 kg so they are on a mix that can hold 70 kg up without sagging.. and rumour has it, to this day no one has accidentally cracked a 2 inch 3x2 slab
I have been trying to find these slabs at B&Q, Homebase and Wickes. Their websites are shite and just keep showing me tiny decorative slabs. Any advice on finding these? Do they go by other names now? or a link to them on a shops website?
hello, which is the best option? to either use your option of 5 concrete dots or to use a base of 6 - 1 dry mix? if i use the 6-1 dry mix option. what depth should the dry mix be? ty
milky1514 he options depend on what you want, you can lay a 2' dry screed of 6x1 and either screed it using screed poles or directly lay the slabs into the dry mix of sand and cement...If you allow the screed to cure over night you will still need to use a wet mix of a weak mortar to lay the slabs on the hardend screed. There is no better way of doing this job, for me on my own using heavy slabs the dot system worked better. Its all in the prep work before you lay the slabs- what ever the preferred system you use. A good base is a must, then decide what system you want to lay the slabs..Obviously the second option will cost more in time and materials? Hope this has helped!
What I mean't, some builders mix the sand/ with cement dry adding no water to the mix then screed it and let the moisture in the sand cure the mix. Then lay the slabs on that hardened surface with a wet mortar bed. The dot system is easier and uses less materials. It is much better for levelling and is widely used especially with large heavy slabs and is better if you need to lift the slabs for repair etc.
bit of a bodge but I guess it doesn't matter being as it under a shed . bet they rock like crazy . would never use the spotting method people have wised up to that these days . full beds a must
No they don't bud...they are solid because the ground work underneath is solid...you can have a solid bed and a rubbish base and they will since....how big do you think the dabs were! The dabs squelch out and cover a large percent of the underside of the slab....No its the base you need to be solid...
![ตีสิบเดย์ [FULL] | ครอบครัวสะท้านทุ่ง "นางบี & อ้ายสติ๊ก"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A1rhYcxxNtA/mqdefault.jpg)
Give over and give the guy a break. All these so called 'builders' saying don't use dot and dabs. Like he said he's flaunched the ends so they are sealed up and ants will get anywhere! Also creates a much more level and easy to lay surface. 90% of your 3x2 slabs have dabs under them lift them with a crowbar and see. Try laying 3x2 flags on a bed break your back and end up caked in cack! This guy just shown you how us builders do a proper job. Well done good video keep em coming!
You know you have done a good days graft lifting them big old heavy slabs. Nice work Chris.
Britec09 Thanks and yes, I'm not getting any younger lol..
I used to lay m on dry river sand...not keen on spot & dab ..but still nice job...I was a builder since I left school but knackered my back lifting flags like them can't walk now after two back operations..lol...love watching you work reminds me of the good days on site...hope your looking after your back mate.:)
Nice job chris you have done, im going to fallow your method for my shed base, many thanks
Well done Pal, keep going 👍
Excellent video, great tips !
Looks great. We mucked around all afternoon trying to get our base finished, not too much fun at all.
Very helpful video! Thank you so much.
Thanks Chris - helpful and interesting.
+bulwul1 Thank you
Many thanks - really useful video
knees too. jeysus. good job this bloke does though. would have him do mine.
Hi Chris,
Complete newbie here.
Just wondering how deep you would recommend going if you were putting in a patio & what would be the levels you would use for both hard core & mortar. Thanks.
Hi Chris please advise what you mean by the ends getting flaunched aswell?. also with the 5 dot method as you state if the pile heap is big enough it will spread out. Is there any that can be injected afterwards to fill the voids (if any).
I don't think the 5 dot method is too terrible, certainly I'd favour that over laying it on a pad of sharp sand, which I've seen done.
Chris, just acquired so heavy slabs like the ones you used. Can I use this method to widen my drive way?
I used the dabs method on a shed base over MOT ten years ago. Still there and no movement or issues. But I had a patio done with same method and after two years was all over the place and all loose. Best to use full coverage on patios due to being walked on.
Will soil compact enough to lay hardcore over instead of digging out
Hi a have a question am looking to build a garage for car but can I use slabs as the base
Why do you want slabs sloping for a shed base?? Should be level surely
I did tell you about this but my back is ok how's yours
Dot & dab yes easier for us builders, however not the best for the customer as it allows rat runs and great to for ants... better a full bed of wet mix or dry !! takes longer but its getting the job done right,,!
+Derek Rooney No so, the dots spread out and I ensured the is fill all around the dabs...The ends all get flaunched too
Incorrect !! They still leave gaps...FACT which allow ants and rat runs.. for sake of little extra work just do full bed....that way job done the correct way..
Still disagree with you bud, ants will get any where- dot and dab has other advantages. If you need to replace, remove etc it will be easier than if the slabs are fully bedded, especially these beasts...Swings and roundabouts dude..The dot and dab originally used by the Council enabled us to re-take up and re-use them, they weren't caked in mortar! Saved us a lot of money..
+Chris Longhurst spot bedding is bad. check out paving expert.
+Chris Longhurst dot and dab is the single biggest reason for pavement failure, you might get away with it with these big flags but with smaller ones especially that take cars a full bed with a bond bridge is required.
Do your homework, it's British standards to provide " uniform support " to paving slabs.
Not a bad job as flagging goes. I'm just in the process of taking some up and re-laying them. Although its hard work at 68.
In spite of some of the comments on here mortar dabs are fine for patios and walkways. I use a mix of 1 part of cement to 4 or 5 of sharp sand. Even 1:6 would be ok.
For driveways a full bed of wet or dry mix should be used.
Nah it is a bad job. The patio won't last very long with the cement dots method.
Hmmm, houses from the 50's still got slabs down well on a 5 dot system....I did jobs in the 70s that are still good today.
i think you'd be surprised
@@metallitech I don't think I have ever lifted a 2 inch slab that wasn't dot and dab and before I lifted then they had been in the same place for a decade
Those slabs are heavy!!!! How are you lifting them
Off topic... love your accent... what part of London are you rom?
Cheers for sharing Chris. Shame about the negative comments. I'd guess the majority of them comes from weak little feathers that would struggle to even lift a 3x2 let alone lay one.. keep up the good work and remember " you can't argue with idiot's "
nice video,
some negative comments about rat runs and ants !
load of bollocks,ants are in every garden and rats are not bothered either way.
thanks for taking the time.
full bed of mortar for me then never have probs
had some of those old slabs in my garden.... old council slabs :)
+Andrew Bobbin lol-heavy beasts
Why arent you using a paviors rubber hammer? A slegehammer and wood block combined with second hand flags is a sure way to crack them surely?
A rubber hammer isn't really heavy enough to move them 3x2 are about 70 kg so they are on a mix that can hold 70 kg up without sagging.. and rumour has it, to this day no one has accidentally cracked a 2 inch 3x2 slab
Dot and dab isn't a long term solution. Dry mix mate 5 to one
I have been trying to find these slabs at B&Q, Homebase and Wickes. Their websites are shite and just keep showing me tiny decorative slabs. Any advice on finding these? Do they go by other names now? or a link to them on a shops website?
hello, which is the best option? to either use your option of 5 concrete dots or to use a base of 6 - 1 dry mix? if i use the 6-1 dry mix option. what depth should the dry mix be? ty
milky1514 he options depend on what you want, you can lay a 2' dry screed of 6x1 and either screed it using screed poles or directly lay the slabs into the dry mix of sand and cement...If you allow the screed to cure over night you will still need to use a wet mix of a weak mortar to lay the slabs on the hardend screed. There is no better way of doing this job, for me on my own using heavy slabs the dot system worked better. Its all in the prep work before you lay the slabs- what ever the preferred system you use. A good base is a must, then decide what system you want to lay the slabs..Obviously the second option will cost more in time and materials? Hope this has helped!
What I mean't, some builders mix the sand/ with cement dry adding no water to the mix then screed it and let the moisture in the sand cure the mix. Then lay the slabs on that hardened surface with a wet mortar bed. The dot system is easier and uses less materials. It is much better for levelling and is widely used especially with large heavy slabs and is better if you need to lift the slabs for repair etc.
instead of putting chairs and I said there you should put a outdoor barbecue were there
should of left a little gap for painting in the future
+Andrew Bobbin There is-:)
bit of a bodge but I guess it doesn't matter being as it under a shed .
bet they rock like crazy .
would never use the spotting method people have wised up to that these days . full beds a must
No they don't bud...they are solid because the ground work underneath is solid...you can have a solid bed and a rubbish base and they will since....how big do you think the dabs were! The dabs squelch out and cover a large percent of the underside of the slab....No its the base you need to be solid...
Stokie?
what's wrong with using a mallet
ali hussein Nothing!
what cement mix?
jesus shavesHi Jesus Saves, 6 sand 1 cement or lime
***** Thanks chris
Why didn't you just concrete that area and levelled nicely ?
The cost, this is my daughters house and we are saving her money dude!
Within about 50 secs. the fencing and entrance had all changed. What happened?
The project is a large job, I filmed it in various stages- When I compiled the vid I used the different shoots to make the one cut!
I have spent months studying building sheds and discovered a fantastic website at Wilfs Shed Formula (google it if you're interested)
My husband uses these plans from Stodoys and is very happy with them. However. I love yours!
deleting posts eh ?
+oldmanfromyork Nope, they go through a filter all swearing etc is removed pal- it takes time
How NOT to........
Dabbing it’s ok if it’s for a quick job and making rats nests shows you love the vermin more then the customer. But looks good nevertheless 💷
Very usfull
Either you're very short, or those slabs are massive.
10 stone each and the are over 900mm long, eel
tell you what im glad this aint my way of making a living. me backs bad enough...
very poor way to lay
Can't handle the audio.
poor method
what a gypo, chap chap chap , never heard of a rubber mallet for slabs , not enough mortar ,first winter frost will move the slabs, poor method.
STOP TALKING AND START WORKING? THEN TALK AFTER THE JOB IS DONE