I just finished a service in my neighbors 95% York unit, complaint was that it lights but goes right out. Unit is in a small 2nd floor crawl space. The “pro” who was there just the day before changed the pressure switch for the inducer motor and “beat feet”. As soon as I turned it on the next day, the inducer squirrel cage sounded like it was UNDER WATER. Shut it down, removed the tube from the inducer outlet to the drain pan and pulled out a huge “booger” from it. Now the water flows freely, inducer motor is happy. Completed your checklist per the video, all is well. NEVER underestimate the importance of the condensate drain !!! Thanks again, another warm neighbor 👍👍👍
Yes this is huge and always confusing to new techs especially since we only do heating certain times out of the year so it’s easy to forget and with new efficiency standards this could really help. On natural gas and LP. Thanks Craig
NCI has all the knowledge you will need. Be careful who you research or watch, because a lot of people are misinformed when it comes to combustion analysis.
I really would like to. That would take a bit because of all the fuel gas, electric and everything. I certainly would like to in the future. Stay tuned for our minisplit book coming out near the end of the year. Its almost done, thanks!
No such thing as too much information when it’s 10 degrees outside at 2AM on Sunday morning and your furnace is “being naughty” . Great information as always.
I had an 80% efficient furnace, with the inducer port, which didn't get clogged, but it got hot enough that over three to five years would cook the tube, made of rubber, or plastic or whatever, and it would crack and leak. This caused the furnace to fail. The first time it cracked, it took me a couple of days to discover what it was. It's very simple to replace.
The proactive advice and cleaning guidelines you provide in your great video will aid in preventing furnace failure, thereby lowering repair expenses. we offer quality furnace spare parts.
@@isaiahmedina9301 I saw that just wasn’t sure what your overall goal was. Some guys will get into install and stay doing that until they retire. Others are more technically inclined and go that route. Install, just watch your lead installers, and do what they do, some will do things one way others another. Install is an art of its own. Great that you’re starting there. Learn to field fabricate transitions, most commercial won’t. They measure it and have a sheet metal shop make it. If you can fab it in the field you will be worth your weight in gold, because I can’t tell you how many times what you lay out and what you get sent to you won’t always be the same thing. Service is a whole other animal, and different level of commitment. Install guys in the commercial space aren’t likely to be called out for emergencies. Residential oh yeah. I’ve spent 23 years from residential to commercial to industrial, install, service, and now controls Has been a great life, hard but great, and supported at times two families, stick with it, don’t be afraid to ask questions, if your lead is a dick do what you can and move on, lots are when you’re new. But then lots aren’t either. Welcome to the industry
Thank you man I appreciate the advice, looking forward to it and just to answer your question about whether install or service, I want to learn it all I want to be so valuable that I grow expeditiously. I would also love to learn plumbing and electrical. Didn’t grow up with a father wasn’t taught about tools or anything, so just want to be as educated as possible man to be honest with you. I’m 20 years old and just want to be known as having an incredible work ethic. And have that push me into growth within my career. Earn what work for man.
I have had my 96prcnt efficient propane furnace preventive maintenance completed annually by local what seemed to be reputable furnace guy. I followed him through his process. He only checked if the burner's were firing correctly ie. not sputtering and checked glow plug to see if it had soot build up on it. Never looked at air filter instead placed a device inside return air duct to measure psi there. Never checked any of the other things you mentioned. Your thoughts? Cost's me 169.00$ per year. Is it really worth it?
I brought in a large HVAC company in to service my furnace and they did none of this. I didn’t know all of what you mentioned, but I knew that the combustion chamber needed to be cleaned and he did none of it. I wasn’t able to watch him do the service, but I checked afterwards and none of what you described was done. My system was 18 years old at the time so they pushed for replacement. Shame on them.
Nooo, shame on you for hanging on to an old furnace. Chances are the new one will save you enough in gas usage to pay for its self. Them you have new switches, wiring, motors, heat exchanger, everything! HVAC companies make little on service. They do service to stand behind their product. But mostly to be first in line when a new furnace is needed.
Ya know.. while i appreciate this. There are so many units and systems out there and over time have changed... that for us to understand what we are poking at when you explain.. lol... is not quite going to happen. Mine is pretty old too, that i dont know its efficiency or year made, metal nameplate has info for it but no brand. Tho a model number, HG100U3. Im interested in possibly replacing, in case its very old and inefficient. If standard 80% id leave perhaps.. but if not, id change. Either way, i dont know quite how to clean or what im looking at it either. Like i said, so many factors and differences. Mine isnt exactly like that, to follow. How would you suggest understanding it more, where to find a possible manual and also, how much savings between each units? Lets say i had an 80%, so if i got to 90%, is that a 10% savings per month off my bill, would you say? Is it more? How do we understand that too. I know the larger the. Nunber its more efficient etc but what about savings? Lets say its 100$ a month for the 80% and i got 90%, its 1/9 better so does that mean maybe like 9-10% savings, so lets say $90 it would have been? Or am i missing something trying to understanding the savings as well?
i wish you where more specific as to the age, manufacturer, and model number fore the type of Gas furnace your referring too based on the 500 Sq ft per ton usage fore the type of residential weather its a house or moblehome fore the unit use with this tutorial. but i do see you provided alot of links fore further tutorials
Why is there so much concern over the flame rod being clean? I cleaned mine for the first time 9 years after the unit was installed. It only had a very very light "coating" of debris/scale/corrosion on it. Since it's only purpose is to detect a temperature rise created by a flame, seems you would need a very thick coating of debris to prevent that from happening.
What could be the reason for a flame rollout switch to keep tripping (once per week or so)? Had a tech clean out the unit, he said it wasn't bad. Tenant has changed air filters pretty regularly. It's a higher end unit from '08.
@@roberthayes8131 Could be. Could be a leaking gas valve and not making all the way across the burners. Could be a faulting draft induce motor Could be improper gas settings Could be the exhaust is on a prevailing wind side of the home and catching wind gusts Could be a cracked heat exchanger, popped ring and gets hot enough and metal expands enough for the blower to affect the unit. Someone needs to put a combustion analyzer on it that knows what they’re looking at and can tell you exactly what it is.
Could be a lot of things. I once had a York unit that was driving me nuts until I caught the problem red-handed . I found the circuit board had an intermittent problem that would keep the igniter on after ignition from time to time . The igniter would get so hot it would trip the flame rollout switch.That was one job I had to pull a chair up on and cycle the unit over 20 times before it happened (i’ll never forget that furnace as long as I live,😅).
Thanks all. Some great insights here. I'll be giving these suggestions a go and investigate more. Will reply back as well with an update for those curious. In the meantime, I showed my tenant how to reset the switch which she's been having to do still about once per week.
Certainly you are right on the money if they are not burning right, the pilot tube gets covered in soot and then the pilot flame gets choked out, thanks!
A boiler is just a furnace with water moving past the heat exchanger instead of air. Still has the same items to check. Gas train and pressure and limit switches Don’t get all caught up with it being water vs air, same same, it’s a fuel burning appliance,
@@jw5297 I agree with you as far as air and water , but furnaces and boilers are different. Yes they do the same job , as far as combustion yes they have the same principle but as far as components, electric etc way different. Furnace does not have a expansion valve , PRV , sight glass ( steam boilers).... I have been on the field for close to ten years , I like how he explains things and demonstrate the functions.
@@mangoisback Agreed. I thought maybe you were referring to the topic of keeping them clean and running. Yes the water side clearly is different but that can be made or broken by how well it is installed. And yes he does a great job of explaining things and his processes
Just throwing this out there but if your running a PM or service call to a fuel burning appliance and your not doing a combustion test and analysis and removing and cleaning the flame sensor, shame on you! Be a technician, it literally takes 30 minutes and you could save a life, and you will definitely will save them money and prolong the life of the equipment, IE doing your job.
@@anarki8560 yep until the fire department tells them to ditch them Have had it happen many times. Nighthawk low level detects the home owner has opened the man door to the garage with the car running in garage with garage door open but the CO comes in and it goes off. Educating your customers and actually helping prolong the life of their equipment is why your there, earn your money and make the relationship with the customer! It will pay off in the long run.
@@jw5297 yea we offer the NSI 6000 and I educate the customer the best I can while I'm there and am always educating myself to learn more and more about carbon monoxide and its effects. It's a scary thing and I feel like not enough people know about the different types of detectors and carbon monoxide in itself. I've had numerous customers thank me for educating them because they didn't know. It's truly rewarding.
Oh really? Thats not good because this was only meant to be literally the basics but musch else shoulod be cleaned and inspected such as the blower wheel, ducting, etc, thanks!
Then you’ve got the wrong people coming to your home. Everything he went over is basic HVAC service call stuff for me. Your money should pay for something, not just a body showing up.
My Carrier dealer cleaned the flame rod, moisture trap, changed filters, checked static gas pressures, and did a carbon monoxide sniff test ton check for a cracked heat exchanger.
I disagree with flame sensor. I feel like it scratches the smooth surface and allows combustion products sit on it much easier. Once you clean it once, you need to clean it every year.
You can clean it with whatever you would like as long asss it doesn't leave residue. Certainly don't use heavy steel wool, just fine, some people use brillow pad, some use dollar bill but just make sure to clean it off, thanks!
I use blue scotchbrite pads. And I always include a new flame sensor if I replace an igniter They’re $15-$25 and if your doing your job you’ve pulled it out anyway have your company adjust the price to cover the part time 1.5 and you’ve capitalized on your labor and added revenue and added value to that customers experience with your company. I’ve cleaned thousands of flame sensors and replaced around 75-100 in my 23 years. The replacement idea came to me 16-17 years in and working for a franchised company.
My air filter housing was installed wrong and cheap,,,so filter wasn't doin it job,,,98 percent efficient,, works great an cheap when CORRECT, is now but plug up entire furnace,,so most of a day later disassemble clean reassemble. Had 1 issue, a very small dead dried up spider was between flame sensor an 1 hole in burner tube,,I was stumped for a bit then I seen that little thing removed the ol spider carcus an instant heat with no codes,, definitely the smallest little thing will shut these down.
I just finished a service in my neighbors 95% York unit, complaint was that it lights but goes right out. Unit is in a small 2nd floor crawl space. The “pro” who was there just the day before changed the pressure switch for the inducer motor and “beat feet”. As soon as I turned it on the next day, the inducer squirrel cage sounded like it was UNDER WATER. Shut it down, removed the tube from the inducer outlet to the drain pan and pulled out a huge “booger” from it. Now the water flows freely, inducer motor is happy. Completed your checklist per the video, all is well. NEVER underestimate the importance of the condensate drain !!!
Thanks again, another warm neighbor 👍👍👍
I am in hvacr school and really appreciate your informative videos keep them coming thanks for all you do. 👍
Robert, thats so encouraging to hear, thanks!
Scotch bright pads are best for the rod, the steel wool could cause scoring of the rod which actually causes the rate of deposit buildup to increase.
Do a video on combustion analysis and what the parameters should be. Thanks
Look up NCI all the info in the world about proper combustion
Yes this is huge and always confusing to new techs especially since we only do heating certain times out of the year so it’s easy to forget and with new efficiency standards this could really help. On natural gas and LP. Thanks Craig
@Michael A Combustion really isn’t complicated
If your not checking it on fuel burning equipment, you are WRONG.
NCI has all the knowledge you will need. Be careful who you research or watch, because a lot of people are misinformed when it comes to combustion analysis.
@@anarki8560 Agreed
Hey Craig, please make another book dedicated to furnaces.
Sincerely,
Everybody here.
Thanks!
I really would like to. That would take a bit because of all the fuel gas, electric and everything. I certainly would like to in the future. Stay tuned for our minisplit book coming out near the end of the year. Its almost done, thanks!
No such thing as too much information when it’s 10 degrees outside at 2AM on Sunday morning and your furnace is “being naughty” .
Great information as always.
Thats for sure!
You never miss 👌🏾👌🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Lots of useful information. Learning a lot from you. When ever I'm stumped on a unit, I go searching through your videos. Appreciate all your work
Thats so awesome to hear, thanks!
Good information. Thanks for sharing. 👍👍
I had an 80% efficient furnace, with the inducer port, which didn't get clogged, but it got hot enough that over three to five years would cook the tube, made of rubber, or plastic or whatever, and it would crack and leak. This caused the furnace to fail. The first time it cracked, it took me a couple of days to discover what it was. It's very simple to replace.
Some great information! Thanks for sharing!
thank you so much teacher
So glad to help!
As always very good. Thank you!
Thanks so much!
What a great video!
Thanks a lot Myhero Camus!
I really like it. I am Maintenance technician is there anyway to make step by step a furnace and heat pump maintenance videos? Thanks for your help
We just try to focus on one topic at a time. Thanks for letting me know what you would like to see!
Fantastic information 👉
Thanks for informative video, would you please make a video about a master and sleeve thermostat how they communicate 🙏
Thanks for letting me know what you would like to see, thanks!
Had the last one today on a tuneup and cleared it out
Thanks! Nice!
The proactive advice and cleaning guidelines you provide in your great video will aid in preventing furnace failure, thereby lowering repair expenses. we offer quality furnace spare parts.
Any advice, got a job commercial install apprenticeship ? First day October 31st.
Read and watch.
Are you going into an install or service position, that will narrow down what to tell you to start with
Install commercial
@@isaiahmedina9301
I saw that just wasn’t sure what your overall goal was. Some guys will get into install and stay doing that until they retire.
Others are more technically inclined and go that route.
Install, just watch your lead installers, and do what they do, some will do things one way others another.
Install is an art of its own.
Great that you’re starting there. Learn to field fabricate transitions, most commercial won’t. They measure it and have a sheet metal shop make it.
If you can fab it in the field you will be worth your weight in gold, because I can’t tell you how many times what you lay out and what you get sent to you won’t always be the same thing.
Service is a whole other animal, and different level of commitment. Install guys in the commercial space aren’t likely to be called out for emergencies. Residential oh yeah.
I’ve spent 23 years from residential to commercial to industrial, install, service, and now controls
Has been a great life, hard but great, and supported at times two families, stick with it, don’t be afraid to ask questions, if your lead is a dick do what you can and move on, lots are when you’re new. But then lots aren’t either.
Welcome to the industry
Thank you man I appreciate the advice, looking forward to it and just to answer your question about whether install or service, I want to learn it all I want to be so valuable that I grow expeditiously. I would also love to learn plumbing and electrical. Didn’t grow up with a father wasn’t taught about tools or anything, so just want to be as educated as possible man to be honest with you. I’m 20 years old and just want to be known as having an incredible work ethic. And have that push me into growth within my career. Earn what work for man.
@@isaiahmedina9301 You’ve got the right mentality
You’ll learn plenty about electrical and plumbing in this industry
I have had my 96prcnt efficient propane furnace preventive maintenance completed annually by local what seemed to be reputable furnace guy. I followed him through his process. He only checked if the burner's were firing correctly ie. not sputtering and checked glow plug to see if it had soot build up on it. Never looked at air filter instead placed a device inside return air duct to measure psi there. Never checked any of the other things you mentioned. Your thoughts? Cost's me 169.00$ per year. Is it really worth it?
I brought in a large HVAC company in to service my furnace and they did none of this. I didn’t know all of what you mentioned, but I knew that the combustion chamber needed to be cleaned and he did none of it. I wasn’t able to watch him do the service, but I checked afterwards and none of what you described was done.
My system was 18 years old at the time so they pushed for replacement. Shame on them.
Nooo, shame on you for hanging on to an old furnace.
Chances are the new one will save you enough in gas usage to pay for its self.
Them you have new switches, wiring, motors, heat exchanger, everything!
HVAC companies make little on service. They do service to stand behind their product.
But mostly to be first in line when a new furnace is needed.
Craig , I have Trane S9V2 furnace, how do you get the furnace condensate trap out of that and how to clean. Thanks
Some furnaces have removable traps and others do not. In those cases, just vacuum or blow it out in position, thanks!
Can you make a video for boilers and gas packs?
Thanks for the video ideas Isaiah! I just put one out on zoning controls for boilers, thanks!
Ya know.. while i appreciate this. There are so many units and systems out there and over time have changed... that for us to understand what we are poking at when you explain.. lol... is not quite going to happen. Mine is pretty old too, that i dont know its efficiency or year made, metal nameplate has info for it but no brand. Tho a model number, HG100U3. Im interested in possibly replacing, in case its very old and inefficient. If standard 80% id leave perhaps.. but if not, id change. Either way, i dont know quite how to clean or what im looking at it either. Like i said, so many factors and differences. Mine isnt exactly like that, to follow. How would you suggest understanding it more, where to find a possible manual and also, how much savings between each units?
Lets say i had an 80%, so if i got to 90%, is that a 10% savings per month off my bill, would you say? Is it more? How do we understand that too. I know the larger the. Nunber its more efficient etc but what about savings? Lets say its 100$ a month for the 80% and i got 90%, its 1/9 better so does that mean maybe like 9-10% savings, so lets say $90 it would have been? Or am i missing something trying to understanding the savings as well?
Can you do a video on servicing Heat Pumps?
You didn’t mention the blower motor fan blades.
Inducermotor failure it was extremely noisy, replaced on an American Standard Gold series. IS this a common problem and what would cause it???
Are they facing out 410a
Yes they are mainly moving to R-32 and R-454B in the US, thanks!
I would put the air filter at #1 do folke still install 80% furnaces?
i wish you where more specific as to the age, manufacturer, and model number fore the type of Gas furnace your referring too based on the 500 Sq ft per ton usage fore the type of residential weather its a house or moblehome fore the unit use with this tutorial. but i do see you provided alot of links fore further tutorials
I never say anything like 500 sq ft per ton. If you are referring to a heat load and loss calculation, I use wrightsoft, thanks!
How long should all this take? We are given 1 hour to complete heating service
Why is there so much concern over the flame rod being clean? I cleaned mine for the first time 9 years after the unit was installed. It only had a very very light "coating" of debris/scale/corrosion on it. Since it's only purpose is to detect a temperature rise created by a flame, seems you would need a very thick coating of debris to prevent that from happening.
👍
Here's a trick, widen that inducer port with an 1/8" drill bit. Cuts down on repeat clogs. Drill carefully.
What could be the reason for a flame rollout switch to keep tripping (once per week or so)?
Had a tech clean out the unit, he said it wasn't bad. Tenant has changed air filters pretty regularly. It's a higher end unit from '08.
Many things could cause it. Checking gas pressure and doing a combustion test would point out that culprit
Probably a cracked heat exchanger. Flame rolling out.
@@roberthayes8131 Could be. Could be a leaking gas valve and not making all the way across the burners.
Could be a faulting draft induce motor
Could be improper gas settings
Could be the exhaust is on a prevailing wind side of the home and catching wind gusts
Could be a cracked heat exchanger, popped ring and gets hot enough and metal expands enough for the blower to affect the unit.
Someone needs to put a combustion analyzer on it that knows what they’re looking at and can tell you exactly what it is.
Could be a lot of things. I once had a York unit that was driving me nuts until I caught the problem red-handed . I found the circuit board had an intermittent problem that would keep the igniter on after ignition from time to time . The igniter would get so hot it would trip the flame rollout switch.That was one job I had to pull a chair up on and cycle the unit over 20 times before it happened (i’ll never forget that furnace as long as I live,😅).
Thanks all. Some great insights here. I'll be giving these suggestions a go and investigate more. Will reply back as well with an update for those curious.
In the meantime, I showed my tenant how to reset the switch which she's been having to do still about once per week.
I can't believe you never mentioned cleaning the pilot. Still used in many older furnaces that are still out there.
Certainly you are right on the money if they are not burning right, the pilot tube gets covered in soot and then the pilot flame gets choked out, thanks!
My flame rod stopped heating so I replaced it. The new one gets red hot but won't light the gas. If I use a barbecue lighter it works just fine.😶😶😶
Are you talking about the igniter? The flame rod checks to see if there is a flame. Igniter lights the flame when the gas valve opens.
Boilers where are those videos!!!!
A boiler is just a furnace with water moving past the heat exchanger instead of air. Still has the same items to check. Gas train and pressure and limit switches
Don’t get all caught up with it being water vs air, same same, it’s a fuel burning appliance,
@@jw5297 I agree with you as far as air and water , but furnaces and boilers are different. Yes they do the same job , as far as combustion yes they have the same principle but as far as components, electric etc way different. Furnace does not have a expansion valve , PRV , sight glass ( steam boilers).... I have been on the field for close to ten years , I like how he explains things and demonstrate the functions.
@@mangoisback Agreed. I thought maybe you were referring to the topic of keeping them clean and running.
Yes the water side clearly is different but that can be made or broken by how well it is installed.
And yes he does a great job of explaining things and his processes
We just put up a boiler zoning control video last week, thanks all!
Just throwing this out there but if your running a PM or service call to a fuel burning appliance and your not doing a combustion test and analysis and removing and cleaning the flame sensor, shame on you!
Be a technician, it literally takes 30 minutes and you could save a life, and you will definitely will save them money and prolong the life of the equipment, IE doing your job.
Also educate the customer on the standard carbon monoxide detectors and how they work, and offer low level carbon monoxide monitors.
@@anarki8560 yep until the fire department tells them to ditch them
Have had it happen many times.
Nighthawk low level detects the home owner has opened the man door to the garage with the car running in garage with garage door open but the CO comes in and it goes off.
Educating your customers and actually helping prolong the life of their equipment is why your there, earn your money and make the relationship with the customer!
It will pay off in the long run.
@@jw5297 yea we offer the NSI 6000 and I educate the customer the best I can while I'm there and am always educating myself to learn more and more about carbon monoxide and its effects.
It's a scary thing and I feel like not enough people know about the different types of detectors and carbon monoxide in itself.
I've had numerous customers thank me for educating them because they didn't know. It's truly rewarding.
Great vids as always, hopefully homeowners don't learn this because soon we will be out of a job!
i doubt a 90 year old woman has a computer let alone tools to fix her own furnace!
No sound?
There is sound. I tested. It must be on your device, thanks!
there is NO tech Ive seen in forty years who does this on preventative maintainence. They do a drive dy and cursory inspection and then bill you $150.
Oh really? Thats not good because this was only meant to be literally the basics but musch else shoulod be cleaned and inspected such as the blower wheel, ducting, etc, thanks!
Then you’ve got the wrong people coming to your home.
Everything he went over is basic HVAC service call stuff for me.
Your money should pay for something, not just a body showing up.
My Carrier dealer cleaned the flame rod, moisture trap, changed filters, checked static gas pressures, and did a carbon monoxide sniff test ton check for a cracked heat exchanger.
BTW, that’s $250-300 now.
Let a professional company do the maintenance yearly, it’s safer
For sure!!!
I disagree with flame sensor. I feel like it scratches the smooth surface and allows combustion products sit on it much easier. Once you clean it once, you need to clean it every year.
You can clean it with whatever you would like as long asss it doesn't leave residue. Certainly don't use heavy steel wool, just fine, some people use brillow pad, some use dollar bill but just make sure to clean it off, thanks!
I use blue scotchbrite pads. And I always include a new flame sensor if I replace an igniter
They’re $15-$25 and if your doing your job you’ve pulled it out anyway have your company adjust the price to cover the part time 1.5 and you’ve capitalized on your labor and added revenue and added value to that customers experience with your company.
I’ve cleaned thousands of flame sensors and replaced around 75-100 in my 23 years.
The replacement idea came to me 16-17 years in and working for a franchised company.
My air filter housing was installed wrong and cheap,,,so filter wasn't doin it job,,,98 percent efficient,, works great an cheap when CORRECT, is now but plug up entire furnace,,so most of a day later disassemble clean reassemble. Had 1 issue, a very small dead dried up spider was between flame sensor an 1 hole in burner tube,,I was stumped for a bit then I seen that little thing removed the ol spider carcus an instant heat with no codes,, definitely the smallest little thing will shut these down.
A dollar bill is abrasive enough and won't scratch the flame sensor.
If doing a video to inform or share info do NOT spit your words out as fast as you can.