You are learning from your mistakes. This time the mistake was twofold. It is the good old one measure twice & cut once. But transposed to maths. Sins, Tans & Cosines, Why? I was taught to keep it simple. All 90deg triangles A squared + B squared = C squared. You have a 45deg triangle 2x A squared = C squared. Simple. You have a Cad system to check your calculation. Please learn as I have that as you get older, it pays to use your CAD to check your maths. Then you are using two methods to check your workings out. "Measure twice & cut once"! Many thanks for reminding me of just how important this simple message is. I enjoy watching your Video's & seeing your efforts getting better by yet more leaps & bounds. You are becoming a very good Model Engineer.
A tricky one to work out the best order of operations. Those interrupted cuts looked hellish. I might have nipped off the corners with the mill or band saw to make it octagonal before going with the lathe. Of course you can get away with a lot when it is aluminium as opposed to steel or cast iron. Impressed by the maths calculating, not so much by the DRO work 😝 Good save though! It is a really nice fit in the crankcase. A big stride forwards 👍
Hi Tim - now why didn't I think of using the bandsaw? The maths worked out okay. Out walking the dog this morning and I suddenly realised I referred to isosceles triangles as equilateral! It's a good few years since I studied trig, but some bits have stuck! I think the hard bit is yet to come on this component! Cheers Andrew
Everything is recoverable to some level! Hope it works out. When I have to do calculations to find a coordinate, honestly, I cheat. I redraw it in CAD and then find the dimensions from an easy to find location. ;)
Some interesting challenges there! It is nice to see your solutions. 👍 That was a tough piece, makes me wonder if it would have been easier to process it all round on the lathe 3-jaw, possibly from round stock, then use the mill to add the flat sides. Rather than start with the flat sides on a block and turn it round. I hate interrupted cuts like that, never much fun. 🙂
Hi Andrew, sorry to see the oversized hole for the bearing. When boring, always consider a spring cut when withdrawing the tool. In this case, it might have saved the day.
Hi Steve, you could well be right. I bet it would have removed just about the right amount of material. One for me to remember going forward. Cheers Andrew
Andrew, great work on this complex piece! I think you're recovery using Loctite for the bearing will be absolutely fine. Plus plugging the erroneous hole is perfectly fine. I've done both types of error recoveries and they've always worked out. Also, thanks very much for showing my running Farm Boy! I really appreciate it. I also have a question. In this video you're using a round carbide insert tool. Is that a .25" OD insert? And what's the designation for the insert and for the tool holder it uses? I need something like that myself. Again, great work and great video and audio quality! Mike
Thanks Mike. You must be very proud of your Farm Boy. I've never had good results when using standard carbide inserts. I use the ones intended for machining aluminium, but they also work great on other materials too. They have really sharp tips/edges. The round one is RCGT0606MO-ALU (APT Tools) in a holder SRDCN1010E06 (RDG Tools). The diamond one is CCGT060204-ALU (APT Tools) in a holder SCLCR1010E06 (ArcEuroTrade). Other supplers sell them too. Hope that helps. Cheers Andrew
As usual, nice work with the machines, and the camera. One second is enough for a bad idea, a mirror image when the figure is off center. We are all humans.... Nice Tou could plug the hole and save the work. An hour ago I ran a too long wooden screw into a "thing" that bent. Thought the screw would come out between "things"... Removing the "thing" and Dremel off the too long screw and then mounting "the thing" again will put the train back on the tracks......
Tricky stuff. Shame about the little errors; would it be possible to bore out the bearing housing and fit a sleeve to avoid the need for loctite which could make future replacement problematical ? Also, is there a reason why you did not use tailstock support for the initial turning operations ? Best wishes and good luck for the next stages.
Hi George - yeah making a sleeve is definitely an option - that could well be my plan B. Tailstock support would have been a good idea too! Many thanks for the advice. All the best. Andrew
Instead of the interrupted cuts how difficult would it have been to remove the corners on the mill first? Or use the rotary table of the mill. Question coming from someone who watches someone else building engines 🙂
You seem to be getting quite a bit of "chatter", at times and the parting tool "grabbing" as well. I have had that too, I expect tool tips are sharp so might be wise to check headstock bearings for play.
Oh boy, my OCD would have tossed that in the bin. This is how we learn!
Ha ha Dave - the hard bit is yet to come - so it may well and up in the bin!
Cheers
Andrew
Some cool (from a sound perspective) resonance coming from that parting tool at about 10min mark.
Hi Mark - I'd not noticed that before. How strange! Sometimes parting tools are you friend then suddenly turn into your enemy!
Cheers
Andrew
The plugged hole adds character
Hi Fernando - that is definitely one way to think about it 🤣.You are onviously a 'glass half full' bloke.
Cheers!
Andrew
You are learning from your mistakes. This time the mistake was twofold. It is the good old one measure twice & cut once. But transposed to maths. Sins, Tans & Cosines, Why? I was taught to keep it simple. All 90deg triangles A squared + B squared = C squared. You have a 45deg triangle 2x A squared = C squared. Simple. You have a Cad system to check your calculation. Please learn as I have that as you get older, it pays to use your CAD to check your maths. Then you are using two methods to check your workings out. "Measure twice & cut once"! Many thanks for reminding me of just how important this simple message is. I enjoy watching your Video's & seeing your efforts getting better by yet more leaps & bounds. You are becoming a very good Model Engineer.
Thanks Mervyn. Yeah I never thought of using CAD.
Cheers
Andrew
Yup! The good 'ol plug trick. I know it well.
Good job Andrew
Ha ha - thanks Todd. I know it well too!
All the best.
Andrew
Thank you for the update, Andrew. Coming along can't wait for mare content. Cheers
Cheers John - I think the difficult bit is yet to come!
A tricky one to work out the best order of operations. Those interrupted cuts looked hellish. I might have nipped off the corners with the mill or band saw to make it octagonal before going with the lathe. Of course you can get away with a lot when it is aluminium as opposed to steel or cast iron. Impressed by the maths calculating, not so much by the DRO work 😝 Good save though! It is a really nice fit in the crankcase. A big stride forwards 👍
Hi Tim - now why didn't I think of using the bandsaw? The maths worked out okay. Out walking the dog this morning and I suddenly realised I referred to isosceles triangles as equilateral! It's a good few years since I studied trig, but some bits have stuck!
I think the hard bit is yet to come on this component!
Cheers
Andrew
Splendid recovery on a very tricky part. Well done.
Thanks Earl - not my best of days!
Cheers
Andrew
Everything is recoverable to some level! Hope it works out. When I have to do calculations to find a coordinate, honestly, I cheat. I redraw it in CAD and then find the dimensions from an easy to find location. ;)
That's a great idea👍
Some interesting challenges there!
It is nice to see your solutions. 👍
That was a tough piece, makes me wonder if it would have been easier to process it all round on the lathe 3-jaw, possibly from round stock, then use the mill to add the flat sides. Rather than start with the flat sides on a block and turn it round. I hate interrupted cuts like that, never much fun. 🙂
Round stock that's what I would have used and milled the flat sections, would have cut down the number of operations. But still a very nice job.
Hi Wiz - yeah maybe round stock would have been better. You live and learn!
Cheers
Andrew
Well at least as you say, you recovered the mistake's Andrew. It's coming on nicely now. Going to look stunning when finished.
Regards.
Steve.
Thanks Steve. I hope my brain engages better when machining the next stage of this component!
Cheers
Andrew
you can nurl the bearringhole, then the bearing wil fit like a glove.
cheers ben.
Internal knurling. Haven't seen that before. How is it done ?
Hi ben - that's an interesting thought. I guess I could put light punch marks at 90 degree intervals to achieve something similar.
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal knurling is nicer/consistent but punch marks wil also do fine.
Hi Andrew, sorry to see the oversized hole for the bearing. When boring, always consider a spring cut when withdrawing the tool. In this case, it might have saved the day.
Hi Steve, you could well be right. I bet it would have removed just about the right amount of material. One for me to remember going forward.
Cheers
Andrew
Andrew, great work on this complex piece! I think you're recovery using Loctite for the bearing will be absolutely fine. Plus plugging the erroneous hole is perfectly fine. I've done both types of error recoveries and they've always worked out. Also, thanks very much for showing my running Farm Boy! I really appreciate it.
I also have a question. In this video you're using a round carbide insert tool. Is that a .25" OD insert? And what's the designation for the insert and for the tool holder it uses? I need something like that myself.
Again, great work and great video and audio quality! Mike
Thanks Mike. You must be very proud of your Farm Boy.
I've never had good results when using standard carbide inserts. I use the ones intended for machining aluminium, but they also work great on other materials too. They have really sharp tips/edges.
The round one is RCGT0606MO-ALU (APT Tools) in a holder SRDCN1010E06 (RDG Tools).
The diamond one is CCGT060204-ALU (APT Tools) in a holder SCLCR1010E06 (ArcEuroTrade).
Other supplers sell them too. Hope that helps.
Cheers
Andrew
Thanks for sharing 👍
Cheers Craig!
As usual, nice work with the machines, and the camera.
One second is enough for a bad idea, a mirror image when the figure is off center. We are all humans.... Nice Tou could plug the hole and save the work.
An hour ago I ran a too long wooden screw into a "thing" that bent. Thought the screw would come out between "things"... Removing the "thing" and Dremel off the too long screw and then mounting "the thing" again will put the train back on the tracks......
Thanks Stefan - life is full of challenges and things don't always go to plan!
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Sometimes two steps forwards and one step backwards..... Do like the train, go backwards and gain more speed....
Tricky stuff. Shame about the little errors; would it be possible to bore out the bearing housing and fit a sleeve to avoid the need for loctite which could make future replacement problematical ? Also, is there a reason why you did not use tailstock support for the initial turning operations ? Best wishes and good luck for the next stages.
Hi George - yeah making a sleeve is definitely an option - that could well be my plan B. Tailstock support would have been a good idea too!
Many thanks for the advice.
All the best.
Andrew
👍👍👍👍👍
YES ANDREW, THAT IS A BIT COMPLICATED, BUT WELL DONE. REGARDS RICHARD.
Thanks Richard. I think the next bit will be extremely challenging for me. We will see!
All the best.
Andrew
I've always found when parting or turning aluminium the greater the top rake on the tool the better. Aluminium has a habit of gumming up.
Hi Paul - thanks for the tip. I must try to remember that.
Cheers
Andrew
Instead of the interrupted cuts how difficult would it have been to remove the corners on the mill first? Or use the rotary table of the mill.
Question coming from someone who watches someone else building engines 🙂
Fair point Timo - somesone suggested taking the corners off with the bandsaw. I wish I had thought of that! Brain fog!
Cheers
Andrew
The equations, what the hell 😮 god I’m thick
Hi Derek I'm sure that is not the case.
All the best.
Andrew
You seem to be getting quite a bit of "chatter", at times and the parting tool "grabbing" as well. I have had that too, I expect tool tips are sharp so might be wise to check headstock bearings for play.
Hi Raymond - that's an interesting thought. I will investigate.
Cheers
Andrew