Fantastic! I’ve been watching your videos since the early days! Must be so satisfying to build something like that and get it running! Really excellent!
Cmon Andrew! It’s a V-Twin you need a kick starter on it 😉😂🤣😂 ! Sounds great, I’m sure with a little tweaking you will get it to run a little slower , although V-Twins are not known to idle smoothly. You can give yourself a pat on the back for this project, it’s really neat .
Hi,Andrew. Great to see her running at last. It will improve a lot as you tune and tweak the carburation and get a more stable and reliable fuel reservoir level. On the subject of built in starter motor my suggested set up would include an epicyclic geared electric motor and a one way sprag clutch bearing to act as the drive/freewheel mechanism and a small toothed drive belt to connect the starter pulley to the crankshaft starter pulley. All the components I describe are readily available from a large number of suppliers. Small toothed belts and various sized pulleys are widely available,the sprag (one way freewheel clutch) is a type of needle roller bearing available from Simply Bearings and other bearing suppliers. Geared motors with inline epicyclic gearboxes built in on the front are quite compact,available in various DC voltages and various sizes and torque outputs. The sprag/freewheel bearings are also quite compact and act very much like the freewheel on a pushbike does. Reliable head gaskets can be facilitated by using a couple of suitable diameter Viton 'O' rings seated into a shallow groove in the cylinder head mating faces. The pulsed fuel reservoir pump is the same principle as most diaphragm type carburetors employ on small petrol engined garden blowers/vacs,chainsaws etc. The crankcase depression pulses operate the little diaphragm pump. You could also use a low volume small electric solenoid type inline pump to maintain the fuel reservoir level. One last observation is on valve seat lapping. When lapping small valve seats such as these it is good practice to finish the lapping with a very fine abrasive such as Diamantine (often used by jewellers/watchmakers) or metal polish paste such as Solvol Autosol. Note that Diamantine is not and does not contain actual diamond abrasive,which should not ever be used on valve seats because it embeds into the metal faces and continues to act as a long lasting abrasive.
Hi Howard - many thanks for such a detailed comment. I will start investigating! Yeah, I think the lack of a reliable head gasket is a bit of an oversight by JH. All the best. Andrew
Brilliant Andrew, it sounds fantastic. You realise however that there'll be an oik round from some Government department to tell you to put a very restrictive silencer on it. 😅
Congratulation on getting it running may I suggest that the head/barrel leak could be sorted by lapping as per vale seats. This tecnique was often used on British bikes in the past. As for oil leaks it's just the engine showing character and scent marking it; territory 🙂
Not sure whether that was celebration or relief 😂 Delighted for you that the engine has come to life after all those hours of work. It sounds like there is plenty of power there. It has been fascinating and educational following your progress through the build. Thank you for sharing the highs and the lows along the way.
The fuel tank pump setup is an alternative to carburettor bowls. The constant level in the small tank near your carbs makes the adjustments stay constant compared to the rich to lean mix you will get as the carbs draw from the high to low level of a larger tank. Also, if the carbs are set and working well the Idle mix needle should keep the engine running at low speeds with the High Speed needle completely closed. Once you have the idle set where you want it you can start opening the High Speed needles and revving the engine to tune the top speed.
Congratulations on getting the engine to run. I'm not a fan of gasket sealant in high temperature situations but it seems to be working fir you. Best wishes.
Well done Andrew, had to happen. It needed higher throttle setting so it could suck fuel into carbs (vacuum system) I suspect. Sounds lovely. Keep at it you’ll get it done. Cheers and stay well.
Excellent result! Well done. I'm sure once you're sorted the carbs out it'll tick over very nicely (my guess is that the idle mixture is too rich). Not sure how long your head gaskets will last, but if they fail, try some thin copper instead (annealed) - you can thin down copper washers from hydraulic fittings on the lathe if you can find any the right diameter (glue them to a faceplate) . Keep up the good work :)
Congratulations Andrew! I'm about a month behind you building the same engine and I'll be very happy to see it run too. If you didn't already take a look at the video "Howell Twin 4 Stroke by Cor Rademeyer". I'm using the same cheap starter motor as he used, and it seems like a good option. Cheers!
You must be over the moon with that. It sounds amazing. I saw a good video on setting up petrol chain saws, which have 2 jets. Essential Craftsman, I think visiting a friend, worth a look, it might be the same setup.
@pvtimberfaller done a bit more research but whilst terminology is different for 2/4 stroke carbs, the concept appears essentially be the same when you have two fuel valves, one sets the idle or low circuit fuel delivery and the other sets the fuel delivery for higher revs/high circuit. Please could you let me know what the key differences are? I am about to attempt a carb tune and would benefit from a bit more understanding of the valve relationships.
Sounds nice Andrew. I'd think again about your head gaskets. Paper's not a good idea, & definitely not silicon, they'll break down very quickly. If it needs gaskets, use thin copper sheet shim stock or even a few sheets of tin foil to make them, either will work. Or you could trepan grooves in the barrels or heads to accept Viton "O" rings. KTM & others use the latter in their 2 stroke engines.
Hi Dave Many thanks for the advice. I'll get hold of some thin copper sheet. It's a shame the design doesn't cater for an o-ring and there isn't much material to play with to cut a groove in the head. All the best. Andrew
Congratulations Andrew! For an electric starter, You could use a small electric motor, mount a one way clutch bearing, could be a needle- or ball- bearing, into the gearing and Bob's Your uncle :) You didn't seem to reply on my latest comment, where I offered You a RCEXL ignition system for a twin gas engine. It's brand new and still Your if You want it. It fires simultaneously on both cylinders, with only one sensor and one battery pack. It can run between 5-14 volt I think, so You can use literally any battery.
Great you got it running, congratulations! Although I guess nobody but you had any doubts you would succeed eventually. Of course there’s still a lot to do, as you pointed out. Nevertheless, do you already have plans for the next project? A radial, maybe?
Hi Kai - I'm not sure what to make next. I really need to convert my lathe to an electronic lead screw for thread cutting. I also promised my wife that once I got this engine running I would do some long oustanding jobs around the house 😔 Cheers Andrew
More congratulations on this project from me. I am very good on the steam engines and boiler plants but have a rather poor success record on gas engines so I live vicariously in that field through your channel. Question is what's next, one of Doug Kelley's Snow tandem double acting engines or Ronald Colonna's 1/4 Scale 270 Offys? Dick B. USA
Hi ANDREW I told you in my comment in your previous video that i had no doubt this V-twin would run like à Swiss clock. You answered me "more like a three legged dog". i think i was right... what's the next project ? A V12 rolls royce merlin ? 😂 👍👍👍👍👍 BFN OL6162.
Thanks Allen. I hope the video series will help inspire others to make the v-twin. There are a few things to sort out but hopefully I will be able to fully complete the engine soon. I'm not sure if the V4 would be beyond my skill level but it does look like a very nice engine. All the best. Andrew
Congratulations! It could be time to open the champagne bottle, don't You think? About fuel levels. Look at Your motorbike! The tank is mounted above the carburettor level. As I remember that system a simple float valve regulates the fuel level. Too high level, the valve limits down the inflow of fuel..... The system has its equilibrium.
The engine looks great. It's a sham that you don't have a compression gauge. It would have saved you a lot of time and made it much easier to troubleshoot the problems that you encountered. Copper head gaskets or O-rings should solve the head leaks. There are numerous starting systems used for RC hobby engines that should work for you. Some of the 3 phase brushless DC starters are very compact and powerful, but they do require a controller that generates the phases. So they are a little more complicated than a conventional brushed DC starter motor.
Hi Andrew I'm enjoying. Watching your videos but I'm kind of lost on the mini lathe you are using now the feature on the carriage is different from your first mini lathe the actual mini lather does not have a separate threading lever on the side did you add the new features and if so do you have a video on how you did it
Fantastic! I’ve been watching your videos since the early days! Must be so satisfying to build something like that and get it running! Really excellent!
Congratulations Andrew!
Good video on trouble shooting and working things out. Thank you.
Lovely - nice troubleshooting and a great result.
You've got it running! Thanks for the look.
Just...Brilliant...
Congratulations.
Great run Mr. Whale
Superb Andrew.
For the starter motor, a one way bearing and a small electric motor plus some aluminum 3d printer pulleys perhaps? Just spitballing there.
Brilliant job Andrew! I wasn't at all worried last episode as I knew you would get everything sorted. Looks like it's going to be quite a runner.
Kudos and thanks for sharing 👍
Cmon Andrew! It’s a V-Twin you need a kick starter on it 😉😂🤣😂 ! Sounds great, I’m sure with a little tweaking you will get it to run a little slower , although V-Twins are not known to idle smoothly. You can give yourself a pat on the back for this project, it’s really neat .
🎉 hooray. That was some nice detective work, good to see it running now
Well done Andrew, it runs @nd sounds fantastic. This is begging to go in a bike frame
Hi,Andrew. Great to see her running at last. It will improve a lot as you tune and tweak the carburation and get a more stable and reliable fuel reservoir level. On the subject of built in starter motor my suggested set up would include an epicyclic geared electric motor and a one way sprag clutch bearing to act as the drive/freewheel mechanism and a small toothed drive belt to connect the starter pulley to the crankshaft starter pulley. All the components I describe are readily available from a large number of suppliers. Small toothed belts and various sized pulleys are widely available,the sprag (one way freewheel clutch) is a type of needle roller bearing available from Simply Bearings and other bearing suppliers. Geared motors with inline epicyclic gearboxes built in on the front are quite compact,available in various DC voltages and various sizes and torque outputs. The sprag/freewheel bearings are also quite compact and act very much like the freewheel on a pushbike does.
Reliable head gaskets can be facilitated by using a couple of suitable diameter Viton 'O' rings seated into a shallow groove in the cylinder head mating faces.
The pulsed fuel reservoir pump is the same principle as most diaphragm type carburetors employ on small petrol engined garden blowers/vacs,chainsaws etc. The crankcase depression pulses operate the little diaphragm pump. You could also use a low volume small electric solenoid type inline pump to maintain the fuel reservoir level.
One last observation is on valve seat lapping. When lapping small valve seats such as these it is good practice to finish the lapping with a very fine abrasive such as Diamantine (often used by jewellers/watchmakers) or metal polish paste such as Solvol Autosol. Note that Diamantine is not and does not contain actual diamond abrasive,which should not ever be used on valve seats because it embeds into the metal faces and continues to act as a long lasting abrasive.
Hi Howard - many thanks for such a detailed comment. I will start investigating! Yeah, I think the lack of a reliable head gasket is a bit of an oversight by JH.
All the best.
Andrew
I knew that you would crack it in the end. Hope you slept well Andrew. Well done. Regards from Australia.
👍👍👍👍
Brilliant Andrew, it sounds fantastic. You realise however that there'll be an oik round from some Government department to tell you to put a very restrictive silencer on it. 😅
Well Done Andrew, a few things to tweak but you’ve got there.
Hi Andrew, Excellent result. Sounds lovely when running. Regards Kevin
Congratulations Andrew. Fabulous success. You are rightly pleased. Well done 👏👏👍😀
Congratulation on getting it running may I suggest that the head/barrel leak could be sorted by lapping as per vale seats. This tecnique was often used on British bikes in the past. As for oil leaks it's just the engine showing character and scent marking it; territory 🙂
Hi Jerry The little fire breather sounds very nice and points in trouble shooting the issues.
Not sure whether that was celebration or relief 😂 Delighted for you that the engine has come to life after all those hours of work. It sounds like there is plenty of power there. It has been fascinating and educational following your progress through the build. Thank you for sharing the highs and the lows along the way.
Fantastic news Andrew, makes all that hard work worthwhile when they burst into life like that. My Hoglet ran for the first-time last week.
Wow - that's great news Graham! It would be great to see a video clip of you Hoglet running.
Onwards and upwards!
Congrats on getting it running. Very cool. But the dog didn't seem all too impressed at all. 😉
No - he's used to me fiddling about with things and making loud noises. My neighbours are too!
Cheers
Andrew
Gratulation!!
Congratulations mate, brilliant job and sounds great, cheers
Well done Andrew, I like the idea of the starter motor and the fuel pump, I'd appreciate it if you could share their construction on your channel.
Thanks Terry. I certainly will!
Cheers
Andrew
congratulations, well done mate.
The fuel tank pump setup is an alternative to carburettor bowls. The constant level in the small tank near your carbs makes the adjustments stay constant compared to the rich to lean mix you will get as the carbs draw from the high to low level of a larger tank. Also, if the carbs are set and working well the Idle mix needle should keep the engine running at low speeds with the High Speed needle completely closed. Once you have the idle set where you want it you can start opening the High Speed needles and revving the engine to tune the top speed.
Hi Henry - many thanks for the advice. Really appreciated.
All the best.
Andrew
Fantastic Andrew. Sounded sweet running with no rattles. Once you iron out the gremlins I think it will be your favourite buils so far.
Steve.
nice progression mr whale !
cheers ben.
Well done! It sounds great!
Congratulations on getting the engine to run. I'm not a fan of gasket sealant in high temperature situations but it seems to be working fir you. Best wishes.
Well done Andrew, had to happen. It needed higher throttle setting so it could suck fuel into carbs (vacuum system) I suspect. Sounds lovely. Keep at it you’ll get it done. Cheers and stay well.
Sounds quite good, Andrew, You’ll get it running perfectly! 😊
Awesome job Andrew! There appears to be a leak from the T between the carburetors...
I'll check that out!
Cheers
Andrew
Pop a breather in your fuel tank this will help you, All in all, a nice job.👍👍👍👍👍
Great. Nice one. When are you going to build the rest of the motorbike? 😀 😉
Super !!
Excellent result! Well done. I'm sure once you're sorted the carbs out it'll tick over very nicely (my guess is that the idle mixture is too rich). Not sure how long your head gaskets will last, but if they fail, try some thin copper instead (annealed) - you can thin down copper washers from hydraulic fittings on the lathe if you can find any the right diameter (glue them to a faceplate) .
Keep up the good work :)
Very nice work Andrew ! I just found your channel and subscribed looking forward to more uploads I live on Vancouver Island British Columbia
Congratulations Andrew! I'm about a month behind you building the same engine and I'll be very happy to see it run too. If you didn't already take a look at the video "Howell Twin 4 Stroke by Cor Rademeyer". I'm using the same cheap starter motor as he used, and it seems like a good option. Cheers!
Hi Tony - thanks for the info. Which model of moped starter motor did you decide upon?
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal I bought this one from ebay - " 2-Bolt 10 Tooth Gy6 50cc Scooter Moped Starter Motor Starting "
Hi Tony. Thanks for the info. That's put me on the right track.
Cheers
Andrew
You must be over the moon with that. It sounds amazing. I saw a good video on setting up petrol chain saws, which have 2 jets. Essential Craftsman, I think visiting a friend, worth a look, it might be the same setup.
2 stroke engines are set up different for different reasons.
@pvtimberfaller done a bit more research but whilst terminology is different for 2/4 stroke carbs, the concept appears essentially be the same when you have two fuel valves, one sets the idle or low circuit fuel delivery and the other sets the fuel delivery for higher revs/high circuit. Please could you let me know what the key differences are? I am about to attempt a carb tune and would benefit from a bit more understanding of the valve relationships.
Sounds nice Andrew. I'd think again about your head gaskets. Paper's not a good idea, & definitely not silicon, they'll break down very quickly. If it needs gaskets, use thin copper sheet shim stock or even a few sheets of tin foil to make them, either will work. Or you could trepan grooves in the barrels or heads to accept Viton "O" rings. KTM & others use the latter in their 2 stroke engines.
Hi Dave
Many thanks for the advice. I'll get hold of some thin copper sheet. It's a shame the design doesn't cater for an o-ring and there isn't much material to play with to cut a groove in the head.
All the best.
Andrew
Congratulations Andrew!
For an electric starter, You could use a small electric motor, mount a one way clutch bearing, could be a needle- or ball- bearing, into the gearing and Bob's Your uncle :)
You didn't seem to reply on my latest comment, where I offered You a RCEXL ignition system for a twin gas engine. It's brand new and still Your if You want it. It fires simultaneously on both cylinders, with only one sensor and one battery pack. It can run between 5-14 volt I think, so You can use literally any battery.
Hi Kim - I musted have missed that one! Many thanks for the offer but I decided to stick to the original design.
All the best.
Andrew
Great you got it running, congratulations! Although I guess nobody but you had any doubts you would succeed eventually.
Of course there’s still a lot to do, as you pointed out. Nevertheless, do you already have plans for the next project? A radial, maybe?
Hi Kai - I'm not sure what to make next. I really need to convert my lathe to an electronic lead screw for thread cutting. I also promised my wife that once I got this engine running I would do some long oustanding jobs around the house 😔
Cheers
Andrew
More congratulations on this project from me. I am very good on the steam engines and boiler plants but have a rather poor success record on gas engines so I live vicariously in that field through your channel. Question is what's next, one of Doug Kelley's Snow tandem double acting engines or Ronald Colonna's 1/4 Scale 270 Offys?
Dick B. USA
Thanks Dick. I promised my wife that, once I get the engine running, my next projects will be DIY based around the house 😔
All the best.
Andrew
Hi ANDREW
I told you in my comment in your previous video that i had no doubt this V-twin would run like à Swiss clock. You answered me "more like a three legged dog". i think i was right... what's the next project ? A V12 rolls royce merlin ? 😂 👍👍👍👍👍
BFN
OL6162.
Thanks O! I think I need to look at converting the lathe to an electronic lead screw.
All the best.
Andrew
Congrats Andrew! I really enjoy your videos. You planning on building the V4? :)
Thanks Allen. I hope the video series will help inspire others to make the v-twin. There are a few things to sort out but hopefully I will be able to fully complete the engine soon. I'm not sure if the V4 would be beyond my skill level but it does look like a very nice engine.
All the best.
Andrew
The motor sounds great! What’s next ? How about a radial??? Anyway congratulations on a fine piece of kit.
Hi John. I don't like repetition and making two of everything is my limit. Anything greater would just drive me nuts!
All the best.
Andrew
Congratulations! It could be time to open the champagne bottle, don't You think?
About fuel levels. Look at Your motorbike! The tank is mounted above the carburettor level. As I remember that system a simple float valve regulates the fuel level. Too high level, the valve limits down the inflow of fuel..... The system has its equilibrium.
Good jod 😊
The engine looks great.
It's a sham that you don't have a compression gauge. It would have saved you a lot of time and made it much easier to troubleshoot the problems that you encountered. Copper head gaskets or O-rings should solve the head leaks.
There are numerous starting systems used for RC hobby engines that should work for you. Some of the 3 phase brushless DC starters are very compact and powerful, but they do require a controller that generates the phases. So they are a little more complicated than a conventional brushed DC starter motor.
Thanks for the info - very much appreciated.
Cheers
Andrew
My dad used to say if a British motorcycle wasn’t leaking oil there was no oil in the sump.
Ha ha - that's good to know!
Do you know what your compression ratio is?
Not sure - I thought I saw reference to 5:1 somewhere, but I could be wrong.
What's an exhaust inlet? =)
Well if I said that I must have goofed up!
Wait a moment, a British engine leaking oil, am I missing something here ?
John 🇨🇦 (🇬🇧 expat)
Hi Andrew I'm enjoying. Watching your videos but I'm kind of lost on the mini lathe you are using now the feature on the carriage is different from your first mini lathe the actual mini lather does not have a separate threading lever on the side did you add the new features and if so do you have a video on how you did it
The lathe is a Sieg sc4 lathe.
It has power feed for longitudinal and cross feed as standard
Hi
As Adam points out the lathe is a Sieg SC4 without modification. However I would like to add an electronic lead screw at some stage.