Have you examined the Husky bar for any twist? I’ve seen a bar with twist in it cause some strange things. It might also be that the bar just needs to be dressed. Have you noticed any kind of excess wear, similar to BBR’s “ditch” that he refers to? That’s a clear sign of the bar needing dressing. You can do it with a file tool made for such a task unless you have an expensive bar rail grinder.
I may order some of your intake bits soon for a Makita 7900. Just got this new saw running - I like it but I gutted the muffler before even firing the saw.
I have the intake bits and the difference is astronomical. However I would also suggest getting the better carb. Walbro. Along with putting some actual fuel line and impulse lines on. Mine was only a few months old and I've had unnecessary problems with it because they choose to take an awesome chainsaw and put less than satisfactory fueling parts on them. Just my opinion. It's also my opinion RBS makes some great parts to add more power and stability. Quality parts!
@@tylermiller8597 I was reading up on doing some drilling on the stock carb. The Poleman saga. You think it is best to swap out the carb? Are the stock lines too small? I'd rather use standard lines if possible anyway since the parts supply will eventually dry up.
I would check to see if the groove was clean, first. Sawdust packed in the bar will cause it to slip off pretty easily. It did not look bent when he laid it on the side rail of the trailer, at least not a noticeable bend. I am always surprised how folks take a saw to the field that is having problems, where they have to adjust the carb or fix things that should have been evident before they brought it. I put Husky bars on Huskies and Stihl bars on Stihl saws. I hate front adjusters on any saw and usually replace them with side adjusters. All my Stihl saws have side adjusters. My 372 has a side adjuster with a 24” Husky bar. I sure am not going to spend a bunch of time in the field working on a saw. That is what I do at home.
Is it possible that your bar needs to be dressed? I get that kind of pinching if one of the sides of the rails gets worn down. Then it'll cut circles even with a brand new chain. I like to use a snowboard file to level it off again. It'll be especially bad if the spinning chain is on the sprocket, but is riding along side the bar under the clutch cover. Somehow I threw the chain off the bottom of the bar, but not the sprocket, nose sprocket or the top of the bar. When I put the chain back on I found the bar was a total mess, and had to go fix that before using it again.
Your Saw runs very well💪
Love your saws Nick! Keep up the great work. Eco Tree Pro down south Florida.
Have you examined the Husky bar for any twist? I’ve seen a bar with twist in it cause some strange things. It might also be that the bar just needs to be dressed. Have you noticed any kind of excess wear, similar to BBR’s “ditch” that he refers to? That’s a clear sign of the bar needing dressing. You can do it with a file tool made for such a task unless you have an expensive bar rail grinder.
I may order some of your intake bits soon for a Makita 7900. Just got this new saw running - I like it but I gutted the muffler before even firing the saw.
I have the intake bits and the difference is astronomical. However I would also suggest getting the better carb. Walbro. Along with putting some actual fuel line and impulse lines on. Mine was only a few months old and I've had unnecessary problems with it because they choose to take an awesome chainsaw and put less than satisfactory fueling parts on them. Just my opinion. It's also my opinion RBS makes some great parts to add more power and stability. Quality parts!
@@tylermiller8597 I was reading up on doing some drilling on the stock carb. The Poleman saga. You think it is best to swap out the carb? Are the stock lines too small? I'd rather use standard lines if possible anyway since the parts supply will eventually dry up.
I would check to see if the groove was clean, first. Sawdust packed in the bar will cause it to slip off pretty easily. It did not look bent when he laid it on the side rail of the trailer, at least not a noticeable bend. I am always surprised how folks take a saw to the field that is having problems, where they have to adjust the carb or fix things that should have been evident before they brought it. I put Husky bars on Huskies and Stihl bars on Stihl saws. I hate front adjusters on any saw and usually replace them with side adjusters. All my Stihl saws have side adjusters. My 372 has a side adjuster with a 24” Husky bar. I sure am not going to spend a bunch of time in the field working on a saw. That is what I do at home.
You got a tuff saw there.
Great video man
Hello sir, this chainsaw is very powerful, I like your video... woodworking greetings from Indonesia ♥️🙋
Is it possible that your bar needs to be dressed? I get that kind of pinching if one of the sides of the rails gets worn down. Then it'll cut circles even with a brand new chain. I like to use a snowboard file to level it off again.
It'll be especially bad if the spinning chain is on the sprocket, but is riding along side the bar under the clutch cover. Somehow I threw the chain off the bottom of the bar, but not the sprocket, nose sprocket or the top of the bar. When I put the chain back on I found the bar was a total mess, and had to go fix that before using it again.
Lookin good Nick! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
What does the decomp delete do? Curious of the purpose
Eliminates a valve that will eventually leak. Plug it up if you don't use it.
Where you get the purple chainsaw tool from? I seen one while back on a forum too. They are cool looking.
Ripping