I strip and regrease every 2 to 3 months depending on how many rides i get in. Definitely overkill but it's peace of mind. Its also a sort of meditation for me.
Absolutely! Friends poke fun at me for completely disassembling things on my bike, and cleaning/greasing them, but they all like how my bikes feel, and I rarely have a mechanical
Copper is a non reactive metal within the bike usage environment. Furthermore copper paste very commonly has other components within it that aid non corrosion. Copper paste is also very difficult to wash away and in doing so it stays in places and stops metal on metal contact. For bikes you can’t go wrong using copper based anti-seize grease. The other alternatives are more expensive without providing much extra benefit, so it’s a great option
Take a any automotove grease, package it in a toothpaste type tube and market it as Bicycle grease, and you're on to a winner. I use the same greases and thread compounds on my mtb as I do on my motorcycles and cars. For bearings and surfaces susceptable to water ingress, Lucus Red-n-Tacky is king which is why it's used on marine and agricultural machinery.
95c wash in the washing machine. I have a large bag full and when I've almost filled up another with grubby microfiber cloths I bung em on a hot wash, brings them up pretty good. You don't need softener though! 😊 Oh, next wash is the work gear before Mrs MTB does a white wash. This is important 😮
Mobi Boat grease is cheap, waterproof and very sticky. You can use it for almost everything. I use anti seize on threads and carbon assembly grease where necessary (carbon handle bars)
I have one thicker grease (zefal) and one thinner. I think it works great and never had any problems with them. I dont use carbon parts so thats all I need.
I'm a fitter/turner by trade, and been working on motorcycles for over 40 years. The only grease i use on bicycles is Mobil grade no. 2 blue grease. Copaslip on all threads. No Loctite anywhere. Nothing comes loose, nothing seizes. But then i also don't do service work on carbon fibre components....
Automotive grease for wheel bearings. This is a no brainer. Nothing could be more harsh than the heat and pressure on car/truck/SUV wheels. As far as other components I use Park Tools grease. Carbon grease is probably the only specific grease I would buy if I was using a carbon component.
With threads, there is a time for petro grease, silicone grease, anti seize , silicone spray, and thread locker (Red/Blue?) - choose wisely, Grass Hopper.
I don’t ride a lot so every 5-7 years. I need to find my note pad to rebuild my fork just because it’s so old I have found parts that work. Because oem parts don’t exist anymore. I use military surplus aircraft grease mostly it’s cheap and does the job.
I use a tube of red bearing grease that I got at a NAPA Auto parts store like 10yrs ago. it's got a medium viscosity so it's good on everything. Not to thick and not to thin. Also for my pedals and BB I use anti-seize instead of grease.
Me, too. Except I bought the small tub of the red wheel bearing grease about 10 years ago also. They stuff never goes bad. I also have a tube of the Park Tool grease that I picked up 10 years ago.
Enjoyed the video - thanks Anna! You said that PTFE was not that great in a grease - can you elaborate on that please? I use Finish Line Premium almost everywhere and it has PTFE. Is your concern environmental/health related or mechanical/performance related? Thanks!
If you use something like morgan blue aquaproof paste on your threads, your seat post (if not carbon) and the outside of bearings (especially around seals) you wont actually need to do this task yearly, could be possible only every 5 years! Just dont use it inside your bearings!
A good waterproof O-ring safe NLGI-#2 grease like “Superlube” is really all most people need. You can use it on all metal to metal contact surfaces, and threads. Please don’t fall for the “specialty grease” hype, and pay ridiculous prices.
Instead of speed grease I have re-greased an old bottom bracket with a mix of assembly grease and a couple of drops of wet chain lube. I need to service it more often but for a dry race day my cranks spin for ages and I haven't needed to sell my kidneys and start an OnlyFans to fund ceramic bearings. On an out and out winter bike I have used a variation of marine grease with calcium, repels water ridiculously well and offers the same anti-fusing properties of copper grease.
You absolutely don't need almost 10 specific greases to maintain your MTB. This is just another way the bike industry wants you to spend more money where it is not necessary. There are also options outside the overpriced bicycle specific product that will work just as well. But I guess they have to tell us to avoid them because otherwise the sponsor of this video would not be very happy.
Definitely agree. I pretty much use all my automotive tools, greases, detailing products on my bike. The only bike specific grease I use are for bearings. Specifically, Shimano premium grease. Automotive ones are so much cheaper than ‘bike specific’ and generally higher quality.
Lubricants and materials carelessly used by populist thinking will in the end teach some very hard lessons. My industrial experience quickly provided lessons on following industry best practice unless you have highly specialized knowledge and experience to do otherwise. It is very instructive to see even knowledgable experts get it wrong for unfamiliar applications. Fit for purpose is a great starting point.
Absolutely, if you can tweak the rim back into place well enough for it to seal, you should be fine. Just give it a thorough inspection for any cracking or other damage. Your LBS may also be able to fix you up if you are not comfortable trying the repair
I dint believe you need 10 different greases/lubs....any mechanical grease will work and cost a fraction of these so called rebranded products...i use truper multiuse grease for metal bike parts as well as oil based lubricant...
Grease and degreaser that contains sodium are not supposed to touch your bike, especially not near hubs, bottom bracket, headset etc Plot twist; MTB specific product contains lot of sodium and phosphates which will eat at anything metal that won't dry properly in seconds... 😂
Grease does not help torquing things properly...it really does help overtightening them. All recommended torque number are for dry threads... please do not spread false information.
That is not accurate. Assembly lubricants are commonly used on torqued fasteners. However, on a bicycle, the torque requirements are so low, wet or dry threads will make little difference. That being said, I lubricant all threaded surfaces with lightweight waterproof grease. Why take a chance on something seizing?
@SubversionGarage Do whatever you want, but you can't fool friction...and within the video it was stated that grease would help reaching the correct torque. This is just wrong. And btw: especially when low torque is required, greasing the threads is more critical compared to very high torque settings.
It has to do with running torque. You want the least resistance from friction until preload is complete. Prevents under torquing. As an aerospace engineer, I can tell you that we require all threads to be lubricated prior to torquing. It's written into the spec.
I strip and regrease every 2 to 3 months depending on how many rides i get in. Definitely overkill but it's peace of mind. Its also a sort of meditation for me.
Absolutely! Friends poke fun at me for completely disassembling things on my bike, and cleaning/greasing them, but they all like how my bikes feel, and I rarely have a mechanical
Don’t use copper grease with aluminium and steel as it will actually speed up the galvanic corrosion of the metals.
is copper grease best for titanium and steel? or titanium and aluminum?
Copper is a non reactive metal within the bike usage environment. Furthermore copper paste very commonly has other components within it that aid non corrosion. Copper paste is also very difficult to wash away and in doing so it stays in places and stops metal on metal contact. For bikes you can’t go wrong using copper based anti-seize grease. The other alternatives are more expensive without providing much extra benefit, so it’s a great option
Take a any automotove grease, package it in a toothpaste type tube and market it as Bicycle grease, and you're on to a winner. I use the same greases and thread compounds on my mtb as I do on my motorcycles and cars. For bearings and surfaces susceptable to water ingress, Lucus Red-n-Tacky is king which is why it's used on marine and agricultural machinery.
I'm more interested in how you clean the nice clean micro fibre cloth after you have covered it in mucky grease?
95c wash in the washing machine. I have a large bag full and when I've almost filled up another with grubby microfiber cloths I bung em on a hot wash, brings them up pretty good. You don't need softener though! 😊 Oh, next wash is the work gear before Mrs MTB does a white wash. This is important 😮
Batch clean at a laundromat - relationship ending event if you use the one at home.
Great video, Anna, thanks a lot! Goes directly to my personal bike maintenance playlist for future reference)
Thanks for the video. I’ve seen so many build videos where the person never seems to explain greasing.
Thinner grease is less viscous not more viscous
Yes, viscosity is a resistance to flow. So low viscosity = less resistance and therefore thin. High viscosity = more resistance and therefore thick.
Mobi Boat grease is cheap, waterproof and very sticky. You can use it for almost everything.
I use anti seize on threads and carbon assembly grease where necessary (carbon handle bars)
Thanks for all the info, cheers from Greece 😂
I have one thicker grease (zefal) and one thinner. I think it works great and never had any problems with them. I dont use carbon parts so thats all I need.
I have the same Canyon. Love it! Great video and beautiful accent!
Ive always just used GT85, Generic Lithium Grease and Tru Tension Wet Lube, with red rubber greease for any suspension
I'm a fitter/turner by trade, and been working on motorcycles for over 40 years.
The only grease i use on bicycles is Mobil grade no. 2 blue grease.
Copaslip on all threads.
No Loctite anywhere.
Nothing comes loose, nothing seizes.
But then i also don't do service work on carbon fibre components....
Automotive grease for wheel bearings. This is a no brainer. Nothing could be more harsh than the heat and pressure on car/truck/SUV wheels. As far as other components I use Park Tools grease.
Carbon grease is probably the only specific grease I would buy if I was using a carbon component.
Just the info Iwas looking for and needed thanks Anna sterling job as ever
No worries! Thanks, Anna :)
Nice video !! 😀👍
I do this on a regular basis as I like to have a nice and well maintained bike 🙂
I strip clean and grease near enough everything regularly, especially after a wet muddy weekend.
Oooof do mine 2 please lol
You told me yesterday that you just bring the bike to the service once a year.
So a 4 hour ride then a 2 hour clean dismantle re-grease and assemble. er ok then
With threads, there is a time for petro grease, silicone grease, anti seize , silicone spray, and thread locker (Red/Blue?) - choose wisely, Grass Hopper.
I don’t ride a lot so every 5-7 years. I need to find my note pad to rebuild my fork just because it’s so old I have found parts that work. Because oem parts don’t exist anymore. I use military surplus aircraft grease mostly it’s cheap and does the job.
I use a tube of red bearing grease that I got at a NAPA Auto parts store like 10yrs ago. it's got a medium viscosity so it's good on everything. Not to thick and not to thin. Also for my pedals and BB I use anti-seize instead of grease.
Me, too. Except I bought the small tub of the red wheel bearing grease about 10 years ago also. They stuff never goes bad. I also have a tube of the Park Tool grease that I picked up 10 years ago.
@@Velo1010 yeah I have a tube of the really thick park tool grease that I only use on the crank shaft/spindle.
@@NonLegitNation2 yeah I can’t believe that stuff doesn’t go bad as long as I’ve had it. I guess that’s because grease doesn’t go bad.
I used grease from fifth wheel of big rigs 🚛. Worked well but messy.
How often do the front (Maxle) and real axles require cleaning and re-greasing?
Enjoyed the video - thanks Anna! You said that PTFE was not that great in a grease - can you elaborate on that please? I use Finish Line Premium almost everywhere and it has PTFE. Is your concern environmental/health related or mechanical/performance related? Thanks!
If you use something like morgan blue aquaproof paste on your threads, your seat post (if not carbon) and the outside of bearings (especially around seals) you wont actually need to do this task yearly, could be possible only every 5 years!
Just dont use it inside your bearings!
Tip: Don’t go crazy with the thread locker, ie, Permatex blue...
My bike getting the same grease for everything: am I a joke to you? 😹
A good waterproof O-ring safe NLGI-#2 grease like “Superlube” is really all most people need. You can use it on all metal to metal contact surfaces, and threads. Please don’t fall for the “specialty grease” hype, and pay ridiculous prices.
Instead of speed grease I have re-greased an old bottom bracket with a mix of assembly grease and a couple of drops of wet chain lube. I need to service it more often but for a dry race day my cranks spin for ages and I haven't needed to sell my kidneys and start an OnlyFans to fund ceramic bearings.
On an out and out winter bike I have used a variation of marine grease with calcium, repels water ridiculously well and offers the same anti-fusing properties of copper grease.
I prefer Mobile 1 Red Synthetic as my "go to" grease/lubricant.
Same here i used mobil xp222 and mobil fm222(white grease)
Screwfix degreaser, red grease from decathlon, muc off wet lube from the middle of lidl; thats it.
You absolutely don't need almost 10 specific greases to maintain your MTB. This is just another way the bike industry wants you to spend more money where it is not necessary. There are also options outside the overpriced bicycle specific product that will work just as well. But I guess they have to tell us to avoid them because otherwise the sponsor of this video would not be very happy.
Definitely agree. I pretty much use all my automotive tools, greases, detailing products on my bike. The only bike specific grease I use are for bearings. Specifically, Shimano premium grease. Automotive ones are so much cheaper than ‘bike specific’ and generally higher quality.
Guys… it is just another commercial.
Hopefully this one is useful.
@@BeyondLuminationsame. Same
$1 dollars worth of automotive grease can maintain your bike in its life time
@@miyui9269 I agree but even the Park Tool grease that is more but will last a lifetime. That crap never goes bad!
Superlube. Superlube for everything lol.
Lubricants and materials carelessly used by populist thinking will in the end teach some very hard lessons. My industrial experience quickly provided lessons on following industry best practice unless you have highly specialized knowledge and experience to do otherwise. It is very instructive to see even knowledgable experts get it wrong for unfamiliar applications. Fit for purpose is a great starting point.
Let me guess - i also need ti buy dot oil from mtb shop for 10 euro and not the one from petrol station for 2
For a dented rim that's hard to set up tubeless with, can i just bend back the bead lip with pliers or should i just get a new rim #askgmbntech
Absolutely, if you can tweak the rim back into place well enough for it to seal, you should be fine. Just give it a thorough inspection for any cracking or other damage. Your LBS may also be able to fix you up if you are not comfortable trying the repair
Wolftooth do a tool specifically for this, can't remember what it's called though.
@@Alan-75an adjustable wrench lol
@@borisflamingo594 Every tool is a hammer 😁
@@borisflamingo594 Sam pilgrim school of bike maintenance eh 😄😄
Good rider but quite often wrong info. Still a good Channel. Just pays to look at quite a few channels to get accurate consensus.
I would have loved the video to be more detailed :-) This video should be on the normal gmbn
Its a sponsored video by Canyone and peaty's grease.
Another useless ad...
Great a 10 minute commercial for Peaty’s products.
Well they are are a sponsor. However, the information can be applied to any lubricant brand
Strip and grease A MTB
I’m glad you mentioned it! I was going to say but didn’t know if i was being petty.👍
"an MTB" is correct.
"A mountain bike" is correct.
That's 5th grade grammar. And you failed.
@@kylegoodson729Go ahead say something and be wrong lol.
@@dystopiaisutopia if the proceeding word begins with A consonant sound you should use A. The letter M is a consonant.
@@krzysiu4003 That doesn't apply to acronyms.
Over £100 just on grease alone! 😬
I dint believe you need 10 different greases/lubs....any mechanical grease will work and cost a fraction of these so called rebranded products...i use truper multiuse grease for metal bike parts as well as oil based lubricant...
I tear down my bike twice a year to clean and grease all pivots and bearings.
You are a bike mechanics dream customer!
@@gmbntech Thank you! I try to be my own mechanic, I will do everything but suspension work.
Double entendre😂
Grease and degreaser that contains sodium are not supposed to touch your bike, especially not near hubs, bottom bracket, headset etc
Plot twist; MTB specific product contains lot of sodium and phosphates which will eat at anything metal that won't dry properly in seconds...
😂
Sponsorship grease is best hey? Channel is a business lol
Grease does not help torquing things properly...it really does help overtightening them. All recommended torque number are for dry threads... please do not spread false information.
Depends on the torque...
@@jawide626 No, it does not. A greased thread is always overtorqued when the required torque setting is given for a dry thread.
That is not accurate. Assembly lubricants are commonly used on torqued fasteners. However, on a bicycle, the torque requirements are so low, wet or dry threads will make little difference. That being said, I lubricant all threaded surfaces with lightweight waterproof grease. Why take a chance on something seizing?
@SubversionGarage Do whatever you want, but you can't fool friction...and within the video it was stated that grease would help reaching the correct torque. This is just wrong.
And btw: especially when low torque is required, greasing the threads is more critical compared to very high torque settings.
Anna doesn’t mean on threads, she means around circumferences of clamped parts
How does grease help with torquing? Useless advice from a fake biker again...
She's literally raced in both xc & enduro 😂😂😂
@@jawide626 So what? She still has no idea what she's talking about.
It has to do with running torque. You want the least resistance from friction until preload is complete. Prevents under torquing. As an aerospace engineer, I can tell you that we require all threads to be lubricated prior to torquing. It's written into the spec.