A proper job is a long process...leads to success in the end. Congrats Hoss, you make it look easy but there's no substitution for experience. Till next time..."y'all keep strokin"
Wow! So happy I found your channel and the best instructional and step by step detail video on TH-cam. Just subscribe to your channel and I'm surprised you don't have a million subscribers. Thank you!
I know this is some hard work but you make it look so easy especially with no headphones for musical enjoyment. Those fractures are a pain but they've got to be dealt with.
No. I pay attention and when the time comes for me to oil my sander, I run it away from the boat until it’s clean. I only oil my sander when needed. It’s not that often.
what should I expect to pay to have a 26' boat repainted. I would like to change the color from red to dark blue. The boat has a few scratches but no cracks or gouges. Thought of trying to do it myself but don't want to mess it up and then have to pay someone to fix it.
It truly all depends on what area you are in. Prices fluctuate in each state. If you are in Virginia, then you can expect to pay around 5-7 grand. Just all depends. Adding stripes can jump the price up. Really hard to say what it could cost without seeing it first hand. Never know what can pop up that needs fixing until the prep starts. We call those F.U. Factor’s. Lol. Hope this helps 👌
Hello Sir I have an important question. Which protective mask do you use? for the sanding and painting work I would also like to buy one. Thanks for the replies
Everyone has their own preference. I try to leave it for as long as possible, but I move pretty fast. I’ll prep and tape off and try to get two coats on in one day. Then I’ll scotchbrite and repeat the next day. After that I’ll pull the tape and retape. My first 4-5 coats are just buildup coats. After that, I’ll break out the sandpaper and start really sanding to desired prep and then start applying my flow coats/ finish coats. I’ll do that a couple times, re-taping in between. But everyone does things differently. If you leave the tape on too long and it’s not prepped properly, then you risk pulling varnish up with your tape. Also if you leave tape on too long and varnish cures, then when removing the tape it might come off in shredded pieces. ( pain in the a**!) not sure if this helps but I tried. Lol👌
News flash The cracks on the gelcoat hull exterior are not just cosmetic. Glassing on the outside won't achieve a thing - waste of time. If it was cosmetic, awlfair would suffice. Obviously it is an internal structural issue , - floor to hull join that needs beefing up on the inside. The exterior repair will end up with major print through because they didn't post cure.
@@boatpaintingrestorationwit3029 It has nothing to do with budget. It honestly comes down to recognising the issue, fixing the issue and not doing unnecessary steps that achieve nothing - ie glassing over glass where gelcoat once was. With the weakness is in the interior causing issue from constant pound and bad build. Then a cosmetic fix won't fix anything. Then you have the repair, followed with a jet black. - without post curing the epoxy fillers and H/B - it is a guaranteed print through down the track. Just trying to help so you know for next time. Nothing to do with budget, the exterior repair would have been cheaper if you had a post cure light, no glassing necessary. The extra cost would have to be explained to the owner about the interior hull floor to deck join. And they could decide from there. As for posting a YT instruction video showing your company glassing where gelcoat was doesn't make sense.
Lol. Okay buddy. If gelcoat is removed back to glass and reglassed with west system, well there’s nothing wrong with that and it becomes stronger then straight out the factory. As far as the repair on this job, it will last. Down side is it is black. Heat and time shrinks fillers, primers etc. boat will most likely need a fresh touch up sooner or later
@@boatpaintingrestorationwit3029 Nothing wrong with replacing gelcoat with glass when it's not your money. But it's definitely unnecessary. And have you ever heard of post cure ?
Yes I know about post cure. Not sure where you work or what you do but it’s not something that applies to what I do. That’s what’s great about epoxy. It gets stronger with time. Polyester breaks down after it cures. I stick with what I know and that’s just me
When and if I do a bottom, I tape off waterline and roll and brush the bottom paint. Remove all barnacle feet and roll some paint on it. I’ll do a video soon covering the process soon
HELLO. MR. BUSHONG. CAN I PAINT A. BAYLINER. 21.5. FT. FIBER GLASS BOAT. WITH A GOOD. PRIMER. WHAT KIND. AND. A PAOND MADE FOR. FIBER GLASS. LIKE. CORVETT CAR'S. Called. EMMERON. PAINT. CAN YOU HELP ME PLEASE. YOU ARE SUCH A. EXPERT. I WATCH ALL YOUR. YOU TUBE. SHOW'S. THANK YOU. GENE. FROM THE. CALIGORNIA. DELTA. THANK YOU IF YOU GET TIME
A big shout out from the Eastern Shore! I am enjoying your videos. I have been working on boats my whole life.
Can't wait to see her finished. That black paint is gonna be SHARP!!! Glad to see you back in the saddle again!
A proper job is a long process...leads to success in the end.
Congrats Hoss, you make it look easy but there's no substitution for experience.
Till next time..."y'all keep strokin"
Hi Frankie ,very good tecnik to put ppg amercoat ,its very strong stufff ..your the man
Hi Frankie. It's all good. Can't wait to see the super jet black. Great video thanks 😊
Best boat spray painting videos on the web, thank you.
Great learning alot for my up coming paint job Thanks
Wow! So happy I found your channel and the best instructional and step by step detail video on TH-cam. Just subscribe to your channel and I'm surprised you don't have a million subscribers. Thank you!
Frankie you make it look easy.
I want to have you paint my boat.
Where can i get a hold of you?
Thanks and good to see you again making vedios
Thx Carl. I do most of my paint work at Rappahannock yachts in irvinton Virginia. 👌
I know this is some hard work but you make it look so easy especially with no headphones for musical enjoyment. Those fractures are a pain but they've got to be dealt with.
Great videos as usual frankie
When you use air sanders are you concerned about oil contamination on your surface?
No. I pay attention and when the time comes for me to oil my sander, I run it away from the boat until it’s clean. I only oil my sander when needed. It’s not that often.
Hey man... it has been a while!!! Glad to see some more video of how to make a boat shine. I thought maybe the Covid got ya.
good tosee you again. thanks for lesson , i learned some more .
Top man!
what should I expect to pay to have a 26' boat repainted. I would like to change the color from red to dark blue. The boat has a few scratches but no cracks or gouges. Thought of trying to do it myself but don't want to mess it up and then have to pay someone to fix it.
It truly all depends on what area you are in. Prices fluctuate in each state. If you are in Virginia, then you can expect to pay around 5-7 grand. Just all depends. Adding stripes can jump the price up. Really hard to say what it could cost without seeing it first hand. Never know what can pop up that needs fixing until the prep starts. We call those F.U. Factor’s. Lol. Hope this helps 👌
Question Sir, when you’re spraying the 235, do you add thinner?
Great content as always!
Hi Frankie, how much super jet black did you use for the final coats ? Thank you
Hello Sir I have an important question. Which protective mask do you use? for the sanding and painting work I would also like to buy one. Thanks for the replies
I use 3m N95 for sanding and a 3M respirator with vapor cartridge for spraying 👌
Unrelated to this video, but when you do multiple coats of varnish do you remove the tape between every coat or do you leave it on?
Everyone has their own preference. I try to leave it for as long as possible, but I move pretty fast. I’ll prep and tape off and try to get two coats on in one day. Then I’ll scotchbrite and repeat the next day. After that I’ll pull the tape and retape. My first 4-5 coats are just buildup coats. After that, I’ll break out the sandpaper and start really sanding to desired prep and then start applying my flow coats/ finish coats. I’ll do that a couple times, re-taping in between. But everyone does things differently. If you leave the tape on too long and it’s not prepped properly, then you risk pulling varnish up with your tape. Also if you leave tape on too long and varnish cures, then when removing the tape it might come off in shredded pieces. ( pain in the a**!) not sure if this helps but I tried. Lol👌
News flash
The cracks on the gelcoat hull exterior are not just cosmetic.
Glassing on the outside won't achieve a thing - waste of time.
If it was cosmetic, awlfair would suffice.
Obviously it is an internal structural issue , - floor to hull join that needs beefing up on the inside.
The exterior repair will end up with major print through because they didn't post cure.
Agreed. But hey, we do what we can within the budget. Definitely doesn’t make the boat any worse
@@boatpaintingrestorationwit3029
It has nothing to do with budget.
It honestly comes down to recognising the issue, fixing the issue and not doing unnecessary steps that achieve nothing - ie glassing over glass where gelcoat once was.
With the weakness is in the interior causing issue from constant pound and bad build.
Then a cosmetic fix won't fix anything.
Then you have the repair, followed with a jet black. - without post curing the epoxy fillers and H/B - it is a guaranteed print through down the track.
Just trying to help so you know for next time.
Nothing to do with budget, the exterior repair would have been cheaper if you had a post cure light, no glassing necessary.
The extra cost would have to be explained to the owner about the interior hull floor to deck join. And they could decide from there.
As for posting a YT instruction video showing your company glassing where gelcoat was doesn't make sense.
Lol. Okay buddy. If gelcoat is removed back to glass and reglassed with west system, well there’s nothing wrong with that and it becomes stronger then straight out the factory. As far as the repair on this job, it will last. Down side is it is black. Heat and time shrinks fillers, primers etc. boat will most likely need a fresh touch up sooner or later
@@boatpaintingrestorationwit3029
Nothing wrong with replacing gelcoat with glass when it's not your money. But it's definitely unnecessary.
And have you ever heard of post cure ?
Yes I know about post cure. Not sure where you work or what you do but it’s not something that applies to what I do. That’s what’s great about epoxy. It gets stronger with time. Polyester breaks down after it cures. I stick with what I know and that’s just me
Still waiting on your accuspray gun setup video!!
thanks for another video
Thx for sharing! looks good! where are you out of?
Thx! I’m in Virginia. Northern neck area. I’m at Rappahannock yachts in irvinton Virginia 👌
What I really want to know is how Frankie paints the bottom of the boat :/
When and if I do a bottom, I tape off waterline and roll and brush the bottom paint. Remove all barnacle feet and roll some paint on it. I’ll do a video soon covering the process soon
@@boatpaintingrestorationwit3029 That would be cool, Frankie! I was thinking that you get under there with the sprayer :/ Thanks for the reply!
What kind of price tag is on that job
I’ll let ya know when I’m finished. Lol
HELLO. MR. BUSHONG. CAN I PAINT A. BAYLINER. 21.5. FT. FIBER GLASS BOAT. WITH A GOOD. PRIMER. WHAT KIND. AND. A PAOND MADE FOR. FIBER GLASS. LIKE. CORVETT CAR'S. Called. EMMERON. PAINT. CAN YOU HELP ME PLEASE. YOU ARE SUCH A. EXPERT. I WATCH ALL YOUR. YOU TUBE. SHOW'S. THANK YOU. GENE. FROM THE. CALIGORNIA. DELTA. THANK YOU IF YOU GET TIME