This was great DIY actually! Btw for anyone reading this make sure to be careful with this especially when doing it alone, if this thing falls on your fingers kiss 'em goodbye. I'm looking forward seeing how it pans out! Great thing you actually had the courage to do this yourself. I didn't that's for sure. Btw be careful about 'em 7:09 ! Cheers!
Props to doing that all yourself. That's a ton of work. Just dropped a bunch of money doing my rear. Make sure to check the rear diff seal. Since it's out of the car the paper gasket can/will fail. So usually worth replacing since the unit is out and easy to do a full fluid change on it and inspect the gears. +1 for the HF Hardy mechanics gloves!
I think you did a great job on step by step for how short the video is. And when you were explaining how you broke the abs sensor I wanted to tell you you could disconnect it xD
Great video man. Keep these coming. Im still waiting to see a turbo build or supercharger. Im curious though as to how much of a difference you'll be able to feel after you get your car back together.
Ha-ha! I'm changing all bushes to polyurethane in rear suspension too. And I'm changing drum breaks to disks. My advice: change bushes in control arms too. It's more important than changing bushes in sub frame.
i ended up snapping two front diff mount bolts and finally just drilled out the diff and grinded that ear off to fit a bigger bolt and nut through, so if it snaps again all ive got to do is throw a new bolt and nut at it.
More videos like this please! I had the rear diff bolt bend issue too... until it finally broke. I replaced it and added a diff brace for the bolt. Been rock solid since!
I'm stocked to see the refinished subframe. Tho I'm wondering, why you took so much stuff apart underneath the car. It would have been waaaaay more comfortable if you just disconected everything from the car (all sensors, diff from drive shaft, trailing arms and the brakes (that was quiet clever how you did it!)) and then lower the subframe with everything conected to it. Then you could have taken it appart outside if the car. In my opinion that's much easier, but it's up to you. As allways nice video
It would have been more simple for sure to do it that way and might be better for most people, but since I was doing it by myself I wanted to remove as much weight as possible piece by piece before taking it out. Thanks for watching!
Doing the same job, going absolutely horribly rtab bolts are stuck and will probably break since i've been trying to open them with a breakerbar not opening
Watz up bredrin how's tingz going on been a while no video i know yu r doing ur rear subframe hope all is going good can't wait to c. C u soon Oooooooh
Great video! I'm just a little confused why you didn't disconnect the brakes, rear shocks, parking brake cables, driveshaft etc... and then just dropped the whole assembly together and take it all apart after it's out of the car instead of taking it all out piece by piece? Spending less time under the car is always a goal for me.
Kinda off topic but do you plan on replacing the headers in your E36? I have an S50 and my headers are rusty and look terrible, im about to replace them with the Turner shorty headers. Looking at where the bolts are this looks like it will be quite difficult with the engine still in the car.
Nice video! I also had that problem with the speedsensor, I just find out rustico mixed with penetrating oil. It really works, all bolds and stuff are old on the e36 so they brake, with this no problem :) P.s. If you get your suspension out (at the rear) doesn's the spring pops out? I say it in a garage once, almost in his fase. I have to do the rear arms, looks doable when I see ur movie, but the spring?
I got an e36 but I’m pretty new to cars. I don’t think I could do all this I’d probably break the car lol. Would u recommend just taking it to a shop to get maintenance?
Depends on exactly what needs to be repaired. For the subframe it is relatively easy and straight forward and a shop will charge you a lot to do it. They're good cars to learn on for the most part. Everyone who works on cars has a first time for everything they do 👍.
Just a question, why didnt you just drop the subframe complete with the arms, diff and everything? That is by far the easiest way to do it imo. I didnt even remove the shocks. Remove rear shock bottom bolts, calipers, front 3 bolts each side for the big trailing arms, and then drop the whole subframe, then remove everything when you have the whole assembly on the floor
That is definitely the shorter way to do it for sure. I didn't go that route because I had no good way to control it all coming out. Removing it all a little at a time made getting the subframe out a lot easier as far as controlling the weight.
couldve left the wheel speed sensor inside of the knuckle and just disconnected it from the connector and not worried about drilling out the old one, no?
How would you suggest disconnecting those axles from the differential in an automatic car? You can't really put it in and out of gear to spin it around and make the bolts accessible
You couldve also just remove the subframe and the diff, there is literally no need to drop the RTA's unless you are regreasinng them or reinforcing them as that will ruin your alignment. It is possible to remove your rear sub frame without screwing up your alignment.
As I mentioned I removed it all to sand and repaint, as well as removing some stuff to make dropping the subframe lighter/ easier. You can do a better job with it off the car. I'm taking a more in depth approach to my subframe restoration. I need an alignment front and rear anyways so it didn't matter to me. Good points though!
You'll need to weld the reinforcements. It can be done with the subframe still on the car and is really only necessary if you have thicker aftermarket sway bars.
I like your videos. I have strongflex all the way except tranny. So it is super sharp but noisy. I dont recommend for daily but in "projektcar" it have nice different race feeling versus soft daily. If you understand my english:) -eurospec m3 from finland
@@TreatsOnTheStreets no, I have 318is, so i think thats diferent than an m3... i was thinking for instants that you have an 325i sorry! And i was thinking that you have a rear brakes from a 330i E46. But its an m3
@@masscomnet the main increase in NVH has been from the poly motor mounts and trans mounts. With the poly diff bushings and subframe, all I hear is a little whining from the diff (very quiet) and the gear lash at low speeds in first gear. No real comfort change with the subframe stuff.
@@TreatsOnTheStreets that's good to hear. In some applications, the vibration and noise is really bad. Glad it's good to go and hope the handling is great!
I kind of did it the long way. Took about 3 hours including having to stop and film a bunch. Could be done in less time, or could take more if your car is really rusty.
Yeah that rear differential bolt that you took out and was bent, that is a known issue with these rear differentials. Usually they just break instead of Bend so you've gotten lucky with a few burnouts!... I would recommend a bracket specifically to hold the differential properly and not bend / break those bolts, but for whatever reason they decided to make them horribly overpriced so I will just show you the link and you can decide. But that is definitely a known issue with these rear differentials. Terrible design. Here's one place to get them. www.modbargains.com/active-autowerke-differential-support-bracket-bmw-e36.htm
I got a question about the rear brake line for the e36 m3, mine is pinch/broken how the heck can I replace it or fix it? It’s on the rear passenger side do to undercarriage damage
Exactly the level of detail most of us need. This helps scope the project, and now I know what to look for before I order parts!
Way outta my league sent back the bushings and reinforcements
Definitely one of your best videos so far. You should do more DIY videos and I'm sure your channel will grow up faster. Keep it up mate and good luck!
This was great DIY actually! Btw for anyone reading this make sure to be careful with this especially when doing it alone, if this thing falls on your fingers kiss 'em goodbye.
I'm looking forward seeing how it pans out! Great thing you actually had the courage to do this yourself. I didn't that's for sure.
Btw be careful about 'em 7:09 !
Cheers!
Underrated channel as hell.
Awesome video sir. Need to do this on my car. Used to be scared to do it myself. After watching this? Not so much. Thank you.
This video changed my life.
Props to doing that all yourself. That's a ton of work. Just dropped a bunch of money doing my rear. Make sure to check the rear diff seal. Since it's out of the car the paper gasket can/will fail. So usually worth replacing since the unit is out and easy to do a full fluid change on it and inspect the gears. +1 for the HF Hardy mechanics gloves!
Haha thanks man. I'll have to make sure to check out the diff!
Great video ,since by accident i found out about your channel I fell in love with E36 bro I even bought one.... So keep it up , God bless
Wow, fantastic video, been thinking about doing this work on my e36 for a while. Just the motivation I needed
This is gold quality!!! Im about to do the same process on my Touring 325 TDS, i hope it almost the same Like the M3!!! Good luck!!!
What do you do with the brake wire
I think you did a great job on step by step for how short the video is. And when you were explaining how you broke the abs sensor I wanted to tell you you could disconnect it xD
😂 yeah I kind of made problems for myself on the sensor. Thanks man!
Great video man! Looking forward to more diys
Literally made the whole removal easy
Great video man. Keep these coming. Im still waiting to see a turbo build or supercharger. Im curious though as to how much of a difference you'll be able to feel after you get your car back together.
can't wait for the part 2
doing something similar with my E36, suggest higher grade bolts to replace bent one. good work on the vid, cheers
Ha-ha! I'm changing all bushes to polyurethane in rear suspension too. And I'm changing drum breaks to disks. My advice: change bushes in control arms too. It's more important than changing bushes in sub frame.
i ended up snapping two front diff mount bolts and finally just drilled out the diff and grinded that ear off to fit a bigger bolt and nut through, so if it snaps again all ive got to do is throw a new bolt and nut at it.
The in-depth was great!! Keep it up
Solid work bro.
My only regret is that I have but one up vote to give.
😂👍👍
Awesome. Its been 9 yrs since I did mine....been thinking I should do it again lol.
Great video! gives me the motivation to get my hands dirty and save some money 😊
More videos like this please!
I had the rear diff bolt bend issue too... until it finally broke. I replaced it and added a diff brace for the bolt. Been rock solid since!
Nice! I looked into a brace too but decided to wait. Probably will pick one up eventually.
This is an excellent video. I'm doing all rear bushings and mounts next weekend on my E36 M3, this was super useful to watch.
I'm stocked to see the refinished subframe. Tho I'm wondering, why you took so much stuff apart underneath the car. It would have been waaaaay more comfortable if you just disconected everything from the car (all sensors, diff from drive shaft, trailing arms and the brakes (that was quiet clever how you did it!)) and then lower the subframe with everything conected to it. Then you could have taken it appart outside if the car. In my opinion that's much easier, but it's up to you. As allways nice video
It would have been more simple for sure to do it that way and might be better for most people, but since I was doing it by myself I wanted to remove as much weight as possible piece by piece before taking it out. Thanks for watching!
Awesome video! Very informative and flowed smoothly! 👌🏻
Thanks man!
Loved the video man. Keep up the good work
Hey man. What jack stands do you have, or recommend? Thanks! Love ur E36
Great vid, will be doing this soon to my e36
Ahhmazing JOB my friend 👍🏽 and on your back too! Much respect 💯 keep it up!
Thanks man!
I always wondered why for the e46, people use the epoxy method but for e36 and e30 should be welded for the reinforcement plates.
Really helpful and complete details about how to doing it. 👍👍
Your best video by far. Getting ready to drop mine soon!
Doing the same job, going absolutely horribly rtab bolts are stuck and will probably break since i've been trying to open them with a breakerbar not opening
Awesome video!
Watz up bredrin how's tingz going on been a while no video i know yu r doing ur rear subframe hope all is going good can't wait to c. C u soon Oooooooh
Great video good detail. I probably need to look at my e36 m3. Vibrations getting worst when i drive. Feels like the rear is loose or something
Thanks! Good luck hunting that down man 👍. Hopefully you find out what's up
Thank you for the video, lots of good information. We are putting a M3 rear in my sons e36. We have a Mexican blanket in the trunk as well😂
Your videos give my good vibes 👍🕉
How do you go about reconnecting the hand brake cables? Just feed them back through the holes in the driveshaft tunnel?
Yes
Cool thanks.
Love the video,,keep making in deepth videos like that 👌👌
Will do man thanks!
Thanks for the video very detailed this is going to be my next project on my m3!
Awesome man I hope it helps you along the way!
Was gonna sell my m3 but might as well rebuild it
You can access all 6 of the axle bolts with a wobble socket
Great video! I'm just a little confused why you didn't disconnect the brakes, rear shocks, parking brake cables, driveshaft etc... and then just dropped the whole assembly together and take it all apart after it's out of the car instead of taking it all out piece by piece? Spending less time under the car is always a goal for me.
You can totally do it that way and it would be faster. I took things apart before to make it easier and lighter to drop on my own.
Thank you for making this video!
Quality video, great work mate :)
Thanks man!
nice one, was waiting for new stuff from u, thanks:))
Kinda off topic but do you plan on replacing the headers in your E36? I have an S50 and my headers are rusty and look terrible, im about to replace them with the Turner shorty headers. Looking at where the bolts are this looks like it will be quite difficult with the engine still in the car.
I just bought a rev shift guibo. What are your thoughts on it? A lot of the forums about revshift stuff is so confusing and misleading. Thanks.
Nice video! I also had that problem with the speedsensor, I just find out rustico mixed with penetrating oil. It really works, all bolds and stuff are old on the e36 so they brake, with this no problem :)
P.s.
If you get your suspension out (at the rear) doesn's the spring pops out? I say it in a garage once, almost in his fase. I have to do the rear arms, looks doable when I see ur movie, but the spring?
I got an e36 but I’m pretty new to cars. I don’t think I could do all this I’d probably break the car lol. Would u recommend just taking it to a shop to get maintenance?
if you have the tools then this is a very fun way to learn more about your car since most of it is just removing a bolt and replacing a part.
Depends on exactly what needs to be repaired. For the subframe it is relatively easy and straight forward and a shop will charge you a lot to do it. They're good cars to learn on for the most part. Everyone who works on cars has a first time for everything they do 👍.
Learn to work on it yourself or it's going to cost you a lot of money
Definitely save a ton doing things yourself
Gavin, you don't make enough videos☹. I have to rewatch some to refuel my passion for your car.
Just a question, why didnt you just drop the subframe complete with the arms, diff and everything? That is by far the easiest way to do it imo. I didnt even remove the shocks. Remove rear shock bottom bolts, calipers, front 3 bolts each side for the big trailing arms, and then drop the whole subframe, then remove everything when you have the whole assembly on the floor
That is definitely the shorter way to do it for sure. I didn't go that route because I had no good way to control it all coming out. Removing it all a little at a time made getting the subframe out a lot easier as far as controlling the weight.
@@TreatsOnTheStreets I gotchu. However, just putting the jack on the diff works fine. I did it myself in like an hour
Another great video man
Thanks for watching 👍
Why not disconnect the rear shock mounts, drive shaft and unplug what you need and bring all of it down as a whole?
You can do that but I wanted to remove it in pieces so it would be easier to drop alone without the right tools
couldve left the wheel speed sensor inside of the knuckle and just disconnected it from the connector and not worried about drilling out the old one, no?
You are correct. I only took it out of one side because I wanted to clean and repaint.
Alright, took the day off tmrw, once wife n kids leave for the day im on this.
How would you suggest disconnecting those axles from the differential in an automatic car? You can't really put it in and out of gear to spin it around and make the bolts accessible
Park, neutral, park, neutral, etc.
Thanks
For the rear adjustable coilover part, does it go on the top or the bottom? Lol mine are on the bottom bc that’s what I saw from videos
Probably just depends on the manufacturer's design.
If you disconnect the subframe bolts and trailing arms, would it be possible to drop everything as one unit, without taking the diff out first?
Absolutely!
You couldve also just remove the subframe and the diff, there is literally no need to drop the RTA's unless you are regreasinng them or reinforcing them as that will ruin your alignment. It is possible to remove your rear sub frame without screwing up your alignment.
As I mentioned I removed it all to sand and repaint, as well as removing some stuff to make dropping the subframe lighter/ easier. You can do a better job with it off the car. I'm taking a more in depth approach to my subframe restoration. I need an alignment front and rear anyways so it didn't matter to me. Good points though!
Maybe I missed this part but are the brake lines being disconnected also?
Nah I just took the calipers off and hung them with wire. Left brake lines on.
Awesome channel, i love the videos keep up the good M3 content it motivates me to work on mine :)
how long does this job take?
is there a substitute for welding the reinforcement plates?
Can I just put them on there with some sort of adhesive? lol
You'll need to weld the reinforcements. It can be done with the subframe still on the car and is really only necessary if you have thicker aftermarket sway bars.
Do you have dinan sway bars?
Why not take the axle off with the diff and brakes etc
So it isn't as heavy and easier to do alone. More complicated to do it the way I did, but made it easier in the end
I like your videos.
I have strongflex all the way except tranny. So it is super sharp but noisy. I dont recommend for daily but in "projektcar" it have nice different race feeling versus soft daily. If you understand my english:)
-eurospec m3 from finland
I noticed that you have diferent brakes on the rear...What brakes are those?
Are you talking about the calipers?
@@TreatsOnTheStreets and the disks too yeah
The rotors are stock US m3 and so are the calipers. Maybe you're seeing the black wheel spacers?
@@TreatsOnTheStreets no, I have 318is, so i think thats diferent than an m3... i was thinking for instants that you have an 325i sorry! And i was thinking that you have a rear brakes from a 330i E46. But its an m3
Oh ok that makes sense!
What grade of poly did you use? I'm thinking of doing the same with 85a.
Don't exactly remember the rating. Whatever the green poly is rated from Revshift
@@TreatsOnTheStreets Yikes! Green is 95a - really hard stuff.
@@masscomnet the main increase in NVH has been from the poly motor mounts and trans mounts. With the poly diff bushings and subframe, all I hear is a little whining from the diff (very quiet) and the gear lash at low speeds in first gear. No real comfort change with the subframe stuff.
@@TreatsOnTheStreets that's good to hear. In some applications, the vibration and noise is really bad. Glad it's good to go and hope the handling is great!
Man that may not be the most grateful but damn it was a smooth dif drop 😋
How many hours did it take you to remove the subframe?
I kind of did it the long way. Took about 3 hours including having to stop and film a bunch. Could be done in less time, or could take more if your car is really rusty.
@@TreatsOnTheStreets wow. I thought it would take a lot longer than that
If that's the long way, what's the quick?
what rear sway do you got?
Dinan
Yeah that rear differential bolt that you took out and was bent, that is a known issue with these rear differentials. Usually they just break instead of Bend so you've gotten lucky with a few burnouts!... I would recommend a bracket specifically to hold the differential properly and not bend / break those bolts, but for whatever reason they decided to make them horribly overpriced so I will just show you the link and you can decide. But that is definitely a known issue with these rear differentials. Terrible design.
Here's one place to get them.
www.modbargains.com/active-autowerke-differential-support-bracket-bmw-e36.htm
Oh thank you man I'll have to check that out!
Powdercoat those subframes just as papa tommy does
year ago today
First! 😄
Jesus the auto-generated subtiles are nightmare fuel
wish i woulda dropped it like that lmao i was so nervous having everything drop at once
Gavin your a beast ! & btw my little sister thinks your hot lol !
😂😂 that's funny, thanks man!
I did the same, a lot of yob but fun to drive after. I have e36 touring with m54b30. Guys check it out on my chanel 😁
I got a question about the rear brake line for the e36 m3, mine is pinch/broken how the heck can I replace it or fix it? It’s on the rear passenger side do to undercarriage damage
Great video man! Keep on the DIY content!
What sway bar do you use?
I think they are either Turner or Dinan. They're blue