Really love how transparent you are with this whole process. Nothing ever seems to cooperate on these cars, and it's frustrating when you see someone filming content that just does jump cuts and pretends like everything went smoothly. It's refreshing to know that even someone with as much experience as you with fab work and macgyver'ing tools together for builds; there's still some times even you want to throw in the towel. Looking forward to the next update!
Gotta say that this was a GREAT episode. The lil misshap and technical difficult ora really highlights your way of approching problems and honestly I love it. Thank you for the great content!
I like when you take your time and show us how to do and not do things, you are a great teacher. Prefer you don’t rush just to show progress as the journey is the most interesting thing. At least in my opinion. Thanks for another lesson.
Lots of great memories of the E36's I had back in the day. I love the use of the Dead Blow which in my shop it is expected that when you ask for one you deepen your voice as 'Dead Blow' should sound like some vigilante action hero.
Is 420-69 the dead blow or standard mallet? I saw 69-420-69 was a mallet and wanted to be sure I grab the right tool for the job. Good stuff, seeing how you move about between jobs makes me feel better about time I spend going back and forth. Cheers! 🤘🔥😎🔥🤘
With all these new specialty tools you're going to have to create a new "must have" tool video! I can only imagine how difficult it must be getting such rare German tools into your shop. I hear those are well sought after. No worries about getting everything done you hoped for, that's just how it goes man. Rule of Pi haha! Always happy to watch build videos no matter how "finished" you get at the end. It's all great content and good content to learn from.
There's no mistaque if you correct it ,you just learn(sometime to just not forget)! It's refreshing to watch someone work with what they have and get the job done(from time to time the help of a better equipped friend makes the difference!).
I've been watching your channel for a few months now and i have to say i look forward to every one of them. As being a mechanic for 25 years i found that if it's worth doing it's worth doing 2 or 3 times. Good stuff!
😂 😂 made exactly the same mistake with the brake shields while rebuilding my e30 rear axel a couple of months ago. Refused to risk ruining the new wheel bearing, so I cut the plates and bent them over the hub. Worked pretty well, just left with a thin straight cut at the plate as a silent reminder of my mistake. Still hoping I stop seeing that cut everytime I look at the rear suspension. (Finishing the car will probably help with that). Nice episode!!
I've done this job on my last e46 m3 years ago and then last year on my current e46 m3. Anytime I used those bushing tools I always used a nice thick grease on the threads and reapplied it after installing each bushing. I also give the tool a break since it gets hot quickly when the bushing is a tight fit. I also purchased those Ground Control rear control arms. Love them. They're the closest to the csl m3 rear control arms.
Dont worry Mike, i have been doing this job (e36 rear subframe replacement) last year and i have devastated much more things... :D i have even put on the brake shields on the iccorrect sides. soo yeah destroyed 2 bearings right away :D
Nice video! Just went through this. When the tool that installs the bearing starts to strip, just add a socket or other small spacer to grab the threads on the rod somewhere else. Make sure to grease the threaded rod and some assembly lube on the parts and bearings go right in. Once I used lube, I didn't hjave any further problems stripping the rod.
I'm no stranger to major car projects, including complete restoration, but watching this video makes me feel better about my decision to have someone else do all this work when I had it done in my E36.
This is great, being an auto mechanic, and a car enthusiast I appreciated this episode. Love all the 308 updates, and I'm jealous of your fabricating abilities, but this video made me feel a little bit more proud of my own abilities watching you struggle with this rear end rebuild. You don't see car youtubers film, and post their short comings, its fresh to see, keep up the good work!
So we install these rtab bushings with a heavy duty otc bushing install tool. Of course we run a strictly German auto repair shop so we need it but they are like $1500 but they work with literally anything from ball joints to bushings. But glad to see you got it done. I'm in the middle of a low low milage e36 323is street build I bought from some one in the villages, Florida. How refreshing to see people still loving the e36.
Engineer here, press fit bearings easily can be installed with that tool you had however threaded bar material and lubrication, lots of it is key. Shit happens at least you did not give up. Another thought was the difficulty you experienced could have been due to the gland that the bearing installs into had paint/powder coat into it changing the press fit tolerance needed.
For what it's worth, a cup-style ball joint/bushing press tool with a threaded rod will make the E36 RTABs pretty easy to press in and out. I recently installed a set of Syncro Design Works monoball RTABs in a customer E36 M3 with a pretty simple bushing press tool. I also froze the monoballs overnight which made fitment an absolute breeze.
I thought it was only me dealing with this issue when I tried doing this job many years ago. The press is always your friend if you have one. I had to do a combination of heating, manual press, hammers, and clamps.
Tip to fix your hydraulic press issue where it is not laying flat. measure the hieght and width of the C-channel. Replace them with the next larger thicker size. Weld gussets in the channel. Should last quite longer where it will not bend again😉. I believe the C-channel on the that press could be a standard C3x4.5 channel. Got more questions on structural steel give me a hollar😉 this is how you beef it up.
On the press. Ya know … you own a welder ;) I’m sure making a nice home built press would make for some pretty great content and some more tig practice wouldn’t hurt not to mention It’s a seriously handy tool to have in everyone’s shop! Could be a solid day project to if you ever are starting to feel burnt out on the other projects
"I prefer doing the whole process twice... Gives you a lot of good EXTRA practice..." Top quote of the episode, it also seems to be my default assembly method lol!!
they are not the only ones, decades (half a century?) ago, Citroën used to be know for their "special" tools, just for wanting to service a car. And those tools could only bought from, yes, Citroën.
Fellow E36 owner here, we all have felt, currently feel, and will feel your pain again 😂. At least when you start putting in the interior, it will (hopefully?) be new-ish plastics and connectors, not 25-year old stuff that has been baking in the sun and becoming brittle 🤞😬
Loved the assembly sequence reminder shots :-) The first time I ever changed hubs on my daughter's Focus I forgot to press in the magnetic ABS rings. Wasted two wheel bearings fixing the issue.
Front Diff bolt warning !!!! Hey Mike while u have the diff out please upgrade the front bolt. Considering the extra power and spirited driving intended its a must. Drill front mount bush 9/16"=14.3mm Drill out diff casting to 1/2"=12.7mm, a 12.5mm will also work. Tap M14x1.5 pitch. I use 3/8"extension and large tapping handle to clear diff nose. Fold some aluminium foil to give snug fit from tap to extension. Purchase M14x1.5p - 80mm long G8.8 hex bolt, zinc and good quality 14mm flat washer. Cut a slot in thread end of bolt so if it ever snaps you can wind it out from back without removing diff. I have just done all of this to mine. 25% stronger.
I put in a higher grade (12.9) socket head cap screw in the original m12 size. I couldn’t find a high tensile m14 bolt so figured it was next best thing!
Glad I’m not the only who forgets things during reassembly. I ditched my shields and made brackets to fit on some Accord calipers for a drift brake tho
Tip for if you ever do the trailing arm ball joints again. First freeze them for 12 hours. Second, they are directional, there’s a chamfered edge on both that allows them to go in easily. Also not a great idea to use bearings on the RTAB mount, they do require lubricating on a regular basis for road use
I'm glad to know I'm not the only one who does everything twice, the wrong way, or just forgets the simple things. We learn more by f__cking up then doing it the easy way. Have you always had the 2002 in the background? Mine is moving up the list...
A tip for doing those ball joints in the traiiling arms, put them in the freezer overnight, it makes them far far easier to press in using those screw press tools.
I used a similar tool on ford suspension. Part number B15 A55 Hamm3r. When i had to do bushing on a stock ttb and also some drop beams i made a similar tool from some pipe, plates and all thread. Threads strip too but my trick was to use brass bushings and several washers. The washers help the threads survive a bit longer and the brass helps the threads from smearing on the metal plate. I did this with beams on the truck so a press wasnt an option. Not the right way but A way
Tip. If you intend on keeping a vehicle you will probably have to replace the same parts multiple times so always use corrosion mitigation methods and substances. Depending on where they go and what they do you can use anti seize, thread locker, paint glue various oils and greases and even candle wax to ensure that metal rot doesn’t spoil your day the next time you work on something. Note if two different types of metal are to go against each other rot is virtually certain to ruin your day.
That's too funny, I was wondering if you were going to install those trailing arm brackets backwards. Glad you were able to make light of it, great video!
This is gold man. Good info.. Also I see in the background your 2022 Sema build. Strangely enough I came across you from a prank at Sema. lol. Then found out that my buddy Jeff at Circuit Demond has known you for a while. Small world.
This is the exact car I want 🥺 e36 s54 swapped. I'll never get my hands on an e36 with the prices there going for but I guess I'm glad I get to watch a great creator build one
Haha you can't even get an E30 M3 shell for that. They're around $40k for one even worth looking at these days, and $50-60k for one that isn't a pile of junk.
Just some feedback for the trailing arm bearing installer tool. The threads should be lubricated with a heavy grease to help protect them and reduce heat buildup. Not sure if you did use grease or not, but if you didn't try that next time. It was a huge pain, but I was able to do all the bushing and bearings on my e36 with an Amazon e36 installer tool kit
I had to do the lower control arm bushings on my e46 M3, I think they're the exact same part as on the e36 that you were having trouble with. I had NO special tools other than Harbor Freight balljoint press cups, and it was a huge pain. What finally made it possible was actually using silicone grease and freezing the bearing overnight. After that it slipped right in just using some long bolts form the hardware store and the HF press cups. If you find yourself doing that kind of job again, the grease really makes it easier. Also forget about trying to press the old ones out. Just use a press to pop the sphere out and then a jigsaw to cut the race out.
With my e36 I opted to get rid of the rear spring bucket for the adjustable toe arms, full body coilovers are a game changer on german cars, especially if you hit the track often.
If you buy an e36 and plan on doing any wheel bearing or suspension work, do yourself a favor and go spend the couple hundred bucks on a press. It makes many jobs exponentially easier. Those rear spring mounts are pretty cool I want some! Btw you can use front wheel bearing nut socket (46mm -The big one) to hold the bottom as receiver and press in with a 30-something mm it does work but you need to hold the trailing arm so a friend helps.
I didn’t have to clearance my e36 arms for my GC weight jacks, strange. Those outer trailing arm bearings are a bear. I freeze the bearings and use a 20 ton press and that seems to work. Austin at bimmerworld is the man!
Great to see you back on this build Mike even tho its been fighting you along the way the results are looking good so far looking forward to the next installment 🤘
I know this video is two years old, but you can run e46 aluminum upper control arms on an e36, mine work flawlessly. Slight modification to sway bar link placement, but with a little measuring it comes out perfect.
This brought back the painful memory of replacing rtab with homemade speciality tool. Lots of cursing and praying lol. Freeze the bushing and heat the arm beforehand coz every micro meter of gap helps.
On my W211 Mercedes I'm fairly certain the factory procedure for the front wheel bearing and hub mentioned something about forgetting dust shields too.
@Mike I freeze the bushings overnight in dry ice and then they slip into place. I have broken like 3 of those bushing press coupler... I ended up making my own, along with freezing it, makes for a more easy install of those fuckers!
Really love how transparent you are with this whole process. Nothing ever seems to cooperate on these cars, and it's frustrating when you see someone filming content that just does jump cuts and pretends like everything went smoothly. It's refreshing to know that even someone with as much experience as you with fab work and macgyver'ing tools together for builds; there's still some times even you want to throw in the towel. Looking forward to the next update!
Gotta say that this was a GREAT episode. The lil misshap and technical difficult ora really highlights your way of approching problems and honestly I love it. Thank you for the great content!
I like when you take your time and show us how to do and not do things, you are a great teacher. Prefer you don’t rush just to show progress as the journey is the most interesting thing. At least in my opinion. Thanks for another lesson.
Lots of great memories of the E36's I had back in the day. I love the use of the Dead Blow which in my shop it is expected that when you ask for one you deepen your voice as 'Dead Blow' should sound like some vigilante action hero.
HAH! I love it.
Is 420-69 the dead blow or standard mallet? I saw 69-420-69 was a mallet and wanted to be sure I grab the right tool for the job. Good stuff, seeing how you move about between jobs makes me feel better about time I spend going back and forth. Cheers! 🤘🔥😎🔥🤘
I’m biased but E36 episodes are my favorite. I want to go in and redo a few things on my rear subframe eventually, this is great motivation to do so 😄
Nicely done. Can't understand how you build 3 cars at the same time, alone and with that attention to detail. Awesome.
With all these new specialty tools you're going to have to create a new "must have" tool video! I can only imagine how difficult it must be getting such rare German tools into your shop. I hear those are well sought after.
No worries about getting everything done you hoped for, that's just how it goes man. Rule of Pi haha! Always happy to watch build videos no matter how "finished" you get at the end. It's all great content and good content to learn from.
There's no mistaque if you correct it ,you just learn(sometime to just not forget)!
It's refreshing to watch someone work with what they have and get the job done(from time to time the help of a better equipped friend makes the difference!).
I've been watching your channel for a few months now and i have to say i look forward to every one of them. As being a mechanic for 25 years i found that if it's worth doing it's worth doing 2 or 3 times. Good stuff!
😂 😂 made exactly the same mistake with the brake shields while rebuilding my e30 rear axel a couple of months ago. Refused to risk ruining the new wheel bearing, so I cut the plates and bent them over the hub. Worked pretty well, just left with a thin straight cut at the plate as a silent reminder of my mistake. Still hoping I stop seeing that cut everytime I look at the rear suspension. (Finishing the car will probably help with that). Nice episode!!
I've done this job on my last e46 m3 years ago and then last year on my current e46 m3. Anytime I used those bushing tools I always used a nice thick grease on the threads and reapplied it after installing each bushing. I also give the tool a break since it gets hot quickly when the bushing is a tight fit.
I also purchased those Ground Control rear control arms. Love them. They're the closest to the csl m3 rear control arms.
Dont worry Mike, i have been doing this job (e36 rear subframe replacement) last year and i have devastated much more things... :D i have even put on the brake shields on the iccorrect sides. soo yeah destroyed 2 bearings right away :D
Nice video! Just went through this. When the tool that installs the bearing starts to strip, just add a socket or other small spacer to grab the threads on the rod somewhere else. Make sure to grease the threaded rod and some assembly lube on the parts and bearings go right in. Once I used lube, I didn't hjave any further problems stripping the rod.
I'm no stranger to major car projects, including complete restoration, but watching this video makes me feel better about my decision to have someone else do all this work when I had it done in my E36.
When you patiently wait you get the episode you always wanted! Always great to see a e36 update :)
This is great, being an auto mechanic, and a car enthusiast I appreciated this episode. Love all the 308 updates, and I'm jealous of your fabricating abilities, but this video made me feel a little bit more proud of my own abilities watching you struggle with this rear end rebuild. You don't see car youtubers film, and post their short comings, its fresh to see, keep up the good work!
So we install these rtab bushings with a heavy duty otc bushing install tool. Of course we run a strictly German auto repair shop so we need it but they are like $1500 but they work with literally anything from ball joints to bushings. But glad to see you got it done. I'm in the middle of a low low milage e36 323is street build I bought from some one in the villages, Florida. How refreshing to see people still loving the e36.
I didn't realize the E36 suspension was so complex. Jason is a great guy and makes a quality product, he's definitely an out of the box thinker.
Love the e36 episodes. Currently working to get my e39 back on the road after about 7 years of neglect so this is great motivation
wow what a nostalgia trip. this was one of my favorite cars when i first got into the car scene 10+ years ago
Great episode Mike! It’s always nice to see e36 content, Khalil and Andrew helping out as well! Looking forward to seeing the e36 back on the ground!
Engineer here, press fit bearings easily can be installed with that tool you had however threaded bar material and lubrication, lots of it is key.
Shit happens at least you did not give up.
Another thought was the difficulty you experienced could have been due to the gland that the bearing installs into had paint/powder coat into it changing the press fit tolerance needed.
I friggin love SuperfastMatt. I'm ready for a collab.
For what it's worth, a cup-style ball joint/bushing press tool with a threaded rod will make the E36 RTABs pretty easy to press in and out. I recently installed a set of Syncro Design Works monoball RTABs in a customer E36 M3 with a pretty simple bushing press tool. I also froze the monoballs overnight which made fitment an absolute breeze.
I can't believe i didnt find this channel earlier, the content is so well made and put together
I thought it was only me dealing with this issue when I tried doing this job many years ago. The press is always your friend if you have one. I had to do a combination of heating, manual press, hammers, and clamps.
Early E36 days at SW were the best. 💯❤️
FINALLY E36 CONTENT. Glad to see you are getting back at it. So excited to see the car come back together
She's looking good under there, cant wait to see her fully sorted. Going to be a beautiful machine when you're done.
Tip to fix your hydraulic press issue where it is not laying flat. measure the hieght and width of the C-channel. Replace them with the next larger thicker size. Weld gussets in the channel. Should last quite longer where it will not bend again😉. I believe the C-channel on the that press could be a standard C3x4.5 channel. Got more questions on structural steel give me a hollar😉 this is how you beef it up.
The third Banner that's partially falling down above the garage door gets me every time.
On the press. Ya know … you own a welder ;) I’m sure making a nice home built press would make for some pretty great content and some more tig practice wouldn’t hurt not to mention It’s a seriously handy tool to have in everyone’s shop! Could be a solid day project to if you ever are starting to feel burnt out on the other projects
"I prefer doing the whole process twice... Gives you a lot of good EXTRA practice..." Top quote of the episode, it also seems to be my default assembly method lol!!
Gotta love your jab at BMWs ridiculous part/tool grouping system. As a former BMW tech that by far was the most annoying thing to learn lol
they are not the only ones, decades (half a century?) ago, Citroën used to be know for their "special" tools, just for wanting to service a car.
And those tools could only bought from, yes, Citroën.
Fellow E36 owner here, we all have felt, currently feel, and will feel your pain again 😂. At least when you start putting in the interior, it will (hopefully?) be new-ish plastics and connectors, not 25-year old stuff that has been baking in the sun and becoming brittle 🤞😬
Loved the assembly sequence reminder shots :-) The first time I ever changed hubs on my daughter's Focus I forgot to press in the magnetic ABS rings. Wasted two wheel bearings fixing the issue.
Front Diff bolt warning !!!!
Hey Mike while u have the diff out please upgrade the front bolt.
Considering the extra power and spirited driving intended its a must.
Drill front mount bush 9/16"=14.3mm
Drill out diff casting to 1/2"=12.7mm, a 12.5mm will also work.
Tap M14x1.5 pitch. I use 3/8"extension and large tapping handle to clear diff nose.
Fold some aluminium foil to give snug fit from tap to extension.
Purchase M14x1.5p - 80mm long G8.8 hex bolt, zinc and good quality 14mm flat washer.
Cut a slot in thread end of bolt so if it ever snaps you can wind it out from back without removing diff.
I have just done all of this to mine. 25% stronger.
I put in a higher grade (12.9) socket head cap screw in the original m12 size. I couldn’t find a high tensile m14 bolt so figured it was next best thing!
Glad I’m not the only who forgets things during reassembly. I ditched my shields and made brackets to fit on some Accord calipers for a drift brake tho
I know so much information about cars I’ll never own. Thank you Mike
Tip for if you ever do the trailing arm ball joints again. First freeze them for 12 hours. Second, they are directional, there’s a chamfered edge on both that allows them to go in easily. Also not a great idea to use bearings on the RTAB mount, they do require lubricating on a regular basis for road use
I'm glad to know I'm not the only one who does everything twice, the wrong way, or just forgets the simple things. We learn more by f__cking up then doing it the easy way. Have you always had the 2002 in the background? Mine is moving up the list...
A tip for doing those ball joints in the traiiling arms, put them in the freezer overnight, it makes them far far easier to press in using those screw press tools.
I used a similar tool on ford suspension. Part number B15 A55 Hamm3r.
When i had to do bushing on a stock ttb and also some drop beams i made a similar tool from some pipe, plates and all thread. Threads strip too but my trick was to use brass bushings and several washers. The washers help the threads survive a bit longer and the brass helps the threads from smearing on the metal plate. I did this with beams on the truck so a press wasnt an option. Not the right way but A way
Bro I love this guy for the factory tools, fucking amazing
Tip.
If you intend on keeping a vehicle you will probably have to replace the same parts multiple times so always use corrosion mitigation methods and substances.
Depending on where they go and what they do you can use anti seize, thread locker, paint glue various oils and greases and even candle wax to ensure that metal rot doesn’t spoil your day the next time you work on something.
Note if two different types of metal are to go against each other rot is virtually certain to ruin your day.
I love Fireball Tool's 1,500 lbs floor vice
Wow. Thanks for sharing all the details. Awesome.
Lol...on the dust shield. Get in there Lewis!
Those spring mounts are rad!
That huge arbor press is amazing.
That's too funny, I was wondering if you were going to install those trailing arm brackets backwards. Glad you were able to make light of it, great video!
This is gold man. Good info.. Also I see in the background your 2022 Sema build. Strangely enough I came across you from a prank at Sema. lol. Then found out that my buddy Jeff at Circuit Demond has known you for a while. Small world.
This is the exact car I want 🥺 e36 s54 swapped. I'll never get my hands on an e36 with the prices there going for but I guess I'm glad I get to watch a great creator build one
Haha you can't even get an E30 M3 shell for that. They're around $40k for one even worth looking at these days, and $50-60k for one that isn't a pile of junk.
Just some feedback for the trailing arm bearing installer tool. The threads should be lubricated with a heavy grease to help protect them and reduce heat buildup. Not sure if you did use grease or not, but if you didn't try that next time. It was a huge pain, but I was able to do all the bushing and bearings on my e36 with an Amazon e36 installer tool kit
I greased 'Em. Just lots of mileage on the tool itself.
Enjoy the pointy sticks! Love what you've been doing. Keep it up!
The mistakes are extremely relatable. I just did a similar job a couple of weeks ago... definitely worth it though!
I'm a simple man. I see a StanceWorks upload, I click like.
Nice video Stance. Still learning all the cars u have in your fleet. Keep it up 👍
I had to do the lower control arm bushings on my e46 M3, I think they're the exact same part as on the e36 that you were having trouble with. I had NO special tools other than Harbor Freight balljoint press cups, and it was a huge pain. What finally made it possible was actually using silicone grease and freezing the bearing overnight. After that it slipped right in just using some long bolts form the hardware store and the HF press cups. If you find yourself doing that kind of job again, the grease really makes it easier. Also forget about trying to press the old ones out. Just use a press to pop the sphere out and then a jigsaw to cut the race out.
I froze mine as well with no luck.
With my e36 I opted to get rid of the rear spring bucket for the adjustable toe arms, full body coilovers are a game changer on german cars, especially if you hit the track often.
That also requires caging the car to do it properly.
Brand new to the channel, and I'm super impressed by the quality for your sub count. Good work!
Some bush installation tools have a bearing that sits between the nut and the bit that sits on the bush, makes it heaps easier
i love how you turned a horrible day into fun, nice job
Lol, specialty tool=BFH. Always watching dude, thanks for the update on the bimmer.
Sarcasm level 10000 in this ep, love it
If you buy an e36 and plan on doing any wheel bearing or suspension work, do yourself a favor and go spend the couple hundred bucks on a press. It makes many jobs exponentially easier. Those rear spring mounts are pretty cool I want some! Btw you can use front wheel bearing nut socket (46mm -The big one) to hold the bottom as receiver and press in with a 30-something mm it does work but you need to hold the trailing arm so a friend helps.
I didn’t have to clearance my e36 arms for my GC weight jacks, strange. Those outer trailing arm bearings are a bear. I freeze the bearings and use a 20 ton press and that seems to work. Austin at bimmerworld is the man!
Great to see you back on this build Mike even tho its been fighting you along the way the results are looking good so far looking forward to the next installment 🤘
Had me at "Hates E36 Outer Control Arm Joints". It's unreal how excruciating this job is.
Love the oem part number bit
Might steal that one
Stoked to see what wheels and tire specs the fikse fm5’s will be. Best looking wheel!
It's always good to see your favourite TH-camrs being human and making the same errors as the rest of us 🤣👌
We love to see it
I know this video is two years old, but you can run e46 aluminum upper control arms on an e36, mine work flawlessly. Slight modification to sway bar link placement, but with a little measuring it comes out perfect.
factory part number 42069 is back ordered i’m jealous you have one!
Looking forward to seeing the model A engine sorted 🤞
We all need a Brett in our lives
I love Fireball Tool!
Its nice to see someone as smart as you makes mistakes like some of us do too.lol
SUPER SUPER MAXXXX
won the one who deserved the most
YEEESSSS BOYS !!!!
Love this content brother, keep on trucking. We are here for it all.
This brought back the painful memory of replacing rtab with homemade speciality tool. Lots of cursing and praying lol. Freeze the bushing and heat the arm beforehand coz every micro meter of gap helps.
Love this, really enjoying the variety of your builds at the moment!
Looks like you had all the fun after I left... Hope you enjoyed the crumpets.
Delicious. Made the perfect late night editing snack for this episode
Yesssss E36 Progress!
Good episode funny, been there done that, have never
brought another BMW, Paul from New Zealand.
Quality of the vids is noticeably going up with each upload !! Keep it up bro
On my W211 Mercedes I'm fairly certain the factory procedure for the front wheel bearing and hub mentioned something about forgetting dust shields too.
Hi performance Glovehands, fun! BMW misfortune, fun! Ferrari ando Model A can wait, we are having fun.
You need a good C clamp style ball joint press with assorted cups gets the job done most of the time
“Extraordinarily heavy differential”. Proceeds to bring it down relatively easy.
Like the dilla style tunes . Keep keeping on Mike!
you got me with the 42069 pn i thought it was a real part number.
Great video and tutorial 👌
@Mike I freeze the bushings overnight in dry ice and then they slip into place. I have broken like 3 of those bushing press coupler... I ended up making my own, along with freezing it, makes for a more easy install of those fuckers!
Adopt and overcome 👍🏾 great episode
Oh Mike, the struggle is real! Without mistakes there wouldn't be learning. Have a good weekend mate ;-)
Always put the bushings in the freezer, use grease and an impact driver.
When this is done its gonna be awesome nice job !