*DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS:* 1. Preparation: - Use genuine Shimano hydraulic mineral oil. - Tools: Shimano bleed bucket and holder, 2.5mm, 3mm, 7mm, 5mm Allen keys, Phillips screwdriver, clean and dirty rags. 2. Initial Setup: - Remove cap screw from lever with 2.5mm Allen key. - Attach bleed bucket. - Loosen free stroke screw on lever ~8mm with Phillips screwdriver. 3. Brake Pad Removal: - Remove pads using 3mm Allen key. - Store pads safely. - Position bike on stand for flat levers. 4. Caliper Adjustment: - Detach caliper from bike frame. - Remove bleed nipple from caliper with 7mm Allen key. 5. Bleeding Process: - Allow oil flow from bucket through line to caliper. - Tip caliper to release trapped air. - Avoid syringe use at bleed nipple. 6. Cleaning Pistons: - Clean around pistons with dirty rag. - Remove all oil from caliper with clean rag. - Push pistons back gently with 5mm Allen key. 7. Brake Pad Maintenance: - Wet pads, rub together. - Clean pad holding pin until shiny. 8. Reassembly and Adjustment: - Reinsert pads, secure pin. - Center caliper over disc. 9. Final Bleeding and Adjustment: - Squeeze brake lever for air expulsion. - Adjust free stroke screw for lever feel. - Match lever distance to rider preference. 10. Final Checks: - Test for sharp, responsive brake feel. - Reinsert bleed nipple, clean spills.
I followed this, and it worked. No more fussing around with syringes and flimsy hoses, getting fluid all over the place, this is much better than the official Shimano process.
Whoa. I just did this exactly like the video and omg, that was the most pleasant, painless non-fiddly bleed I've ever done. Brakes feel awesome. THANKS!
Man I did this the other week. Had I known about this method I'd of been bleeding my own brakes all the time. THANK YOU. It was so simple and took like 30mins
A pro bleed that just about anyone can do at home. And no syringes, hooray. You can tell this guy knows what he's at. Most videos showing how to "properly" bleed a Shimano brake turn it into such a palaver that a beginner mechanic might throw in the towel before even beginning. And thanks for the tip on cleaning the pin so that the pads release smoothly. Never thought of that.
I know it's an old video - but if I hadn't been steered towards it, I'd still be struggling with (and swearing at) the instructions in the Shimano bleed kit trying to sort the XT back brake on my Orbea. Worked perfectly - thank you :) Excellent.
Been doing this a LONG time but i lost track at eleven new ideas that totally make sense. I'm sure that there were a few that i missed so i have to watch a few more times. Awesome and thank you!
Just did it today after days of spongy brakes, Out today and the rear brake was good again, One thing i also did was with the caliper removed i pulled leaver and kissed the pads.
I'm so grateful for this video! I had some air trapped in the line & this method was way more efficient at getting bubbles out, probably because the fluid can flow out so much faster.
Great method! I’ve always wondered why bike brake bleeds are so fussy. Turns out they don’t have to be. I did this and it was so easy. First impressions are good, I’ll test on a ride this weekend.
This is the real deal. Did this on 3 bikes already. Always perfect on the first try. In total I think I've wasted more brakeoil per bleed with the conventional methods, because you don it over and over.
I'm about to try this. For some reason I can't get my head around the fluid flowing down out of the bleed funnel. Does it easily'drip' down the cable into caliper via gravity alone? I'm at the end of my tether with my regular syringe bleeds not eliminating wandering bite !
Yes it does. I've done it with Magura Royal Blood (quite similar to the Shimano stuff) and Putoline so far. Both worked like a charm on various brakes.
I've reread your post. Wandering bite point doesn't need to be due to a bad bleed. The fix is using Putoline (a much thinner mineral oil), which I've done for my Shimano levers.
The boiling point of mineral oil can vary significantly based on its specific composition, but it generally ranges from 300 to 400°C (572 to 752°F) at atmospheric pressure. When subjected to a vacuum, the boiling point of a substance decreases. For mineral oil, under a vacuum of around 1 mmHg (approximately 1 torr), the boiling point can be reduced to around 150 to 200°C (302 to 392°F). It's important to note that the exact boiling point under vacuum conditions will depend on the specific type of mineral oil and the degree of vacuum applied. For precise applications, referring to detailed specifications or conducting empirical measurements under controlled conditions is recommended.
This worked for me. Needed a second bleed & an additional gentle whack of the caliper with a spanner to encourage the last bubbles out. Seems to have sorted it though. Thank you 👍
A few things, tho. 1. I'd say push pistons back in b4 bleed 2. Use Isoprop on the pads removes oils. 3 Line the caliper up first then put the pads back in. I'll let him off as he looks like he had a 'large one' the previous night.
I do everything he does but with one extra step whereby put fresh pads in with caliper off pump brake till pads come together then close system. and prize pads apart and reinstall caliper for super close bight point.
I've come to this video looking to fix my wandering bite point on my Saints- and looking for some more detail on the screw- how is it actually used? Marshy unscrews it at the beginning but unless I missed it, doesn't mention it again at the end. Should it be screwed back down before the system is sealed? Or after? Does it actually offer any adjustment at this point, it certainly seemed to do nothing at any other time...
No need to touch the reach adjustment at all? I've seen some people recommend that you wind the reach all the way in as well as the free stroke all the way out? Still it feels like the best my brakes have ever been after a bleed cheers!
I'm skeptical of that part about mineral oil boiling due to the vacuum. How hot does it need to be outside and at what altitude for that to be a real concern? Using suction to remove the bubbles from the caliper and lever gives me such good bleeds that I have to remove oil so that it's not too firm. Without the suction you can flick the lever forever and still have bubbles in there. I've had no trouble doing this at room temperature at mile-high altitude.
And what if at the last step when flicking the brake lever you continue to get little bubbles of air, which seem to stop, wait a minute, flick again and some more tiny bubbles?
Man.. altitude pressure having an effect on brake line pressure. I would never have thought about that. I wonder how much that effects a "normal" persons rig going from low altitude set up, to higher altitude bike parks. Im guessing not that much..? Maybe its more of an issue in reverse, if you set up in high altitude, then at lower altitude the brake line would be under pressue?
same with tire pressure dude. Even DURING a race run descending it my alternate depending on the outside conditions! after all this IS rocket science!!
Just had the same issue, its because you have to much air in your brake circuit. A medical syringe would fit exactly as the shimanos bucket but compare to the bucket you can use it to actually push the oil into the brake. As Marshy said be carful to not create a vacuum using the syringe. Good ride!
Just had the same issue, its because you have to much air in your brake circuit. A medical syringe would fit exactly as the shimanos bucket but compare to the bucket you can use it to actually push the oil into the brake. As Marshy said be carful to not create a vacuum using the syringe. Good ride!
Marshy videos need to be a more regular feature! I really appreciate his quirks to being a mechanic
Shimano official bleed guide: Just do whatever, it'll be fine
AKA, how to make it the most painful enjoyable task imaginable
This is actually the best Shimano brake “bleed” tutorial around.
*DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS:*
1. Preparation:
- Use genuine Shimano hydraulic mineral oil.
- Tools: Shimano bleed bucket and holder, 2.5mm, 3mm, 7mm, 5mm Allen keys, Phillips screwdriver, clean and dirty rags.
2. Initial Setup:
- Remove cap screw from lever with 2.5mm Allen key.
- Attach bleed bucket.
- Loosen free stroke screw on lever ~8mm with Phillips screwdriver.
3. Brake Pad Removal:
- Remove pads using 3mm Allen key.
- Store pads safely.
- Position bike on stand for flat levers.
4. Caliper Adjustment:
- Detach caliper from bike frame.
- Remove bleed nipple from caliper with 7mm Allen key.
5. Bleeding Process:
- Allow oil flow from bucket through line to caliper.
- Tip caliper to release trapped air.
- Avoid syringe use at bleed nipple.
6. Cleaning Pistons:
- Clean around pistons with dirty rag.
- Remove all oil from caliper with clean rag.
- Push pistons back gently with 5mm Allen key.
7. Brake Pad Maintenance:
- Wet pads, rub together.
- Clean pad holding pin until shiny.
8. Reassembly and Adjustment:
- Reinsert pads, secure pin.
- Center caliper over disc.
9. Final Bleeding and Adjustment:
- Squeeze brake lever for air expulsion.
- Adjust free stroke screw for lever feel.
- Match lever distance to rider preference.
10. Final Checks:
- Test for sharp, responsive brake feel.
- Reinsert bleed nipple, clean spills.
Just gonna grab a set of pads... (grabs new bike from van). LOL
the best tip was watering new brake pads and rubbing them together,makes so much sence ,before installation.cheers
Excellent it’s good when he explains the reason/logic as to how he bleeds the brakes the way that he does & not the ways that some others do, top man👍
His anticipation of that taco is making this video just that much better
really liked the pad rubbing tip.
Yeah definitely going to do that from now on! It's so simple.
you can also rub them with sandpaper
Use Fiji-Water for best results!
I followed this, and it worked. No more fussing around with syringes and flimsy hoses, getting fluid all over the place, this is much better than the official Shimano process.
Whoa. I just did this exactly like the video and omg, that was the most pleasant, painless non-fiddly bleed I've ever done. Brakes feel awesome. THANKS!
Tried it yesterday. Worked great and easy. Best Shimano brake bleed video I've found so far.
Man I did this the other week. Had I known about this method I'd of been bleeding my own brakes all the time. THANK YOU. It was so simple and took like 30mins
This breaks all the “rules” I’ve seen! But the man is a World Cup mechanic for some of the best riders so I need to give this method a try!
yet another method to add to the list of shimano brake bleeds
TBH I tried this method last weekend, only method you need. Bleed done in like 10 mins, easiest thing ever.
A pro bleed that just about anyone can do at home. And no syringes, hooray. You can tell this guy knows what he's at. Most videos showing how to "properly" bleed a Shimano brake turn it into such a palaver that a beginner mechanic might throw in the towel before even beginning. And thanks for the tip on cleaning the pin so that the pads release smoothly. Never thought of that.
If anyone wants to try those tacos, hit up Ricky at RainForest Bar & Grill in Highlands, NC. His food truck provided the eats at that race.
Bring more of this !! ITS AWESOME!
This was awesome! So good to see Marshy in action, and freakin good tips too! More of these vids please!!
The difference between a World Cup caliber mechanic and the rest right there
Lol yeah
Best vid I have seen on this, all the good stuff no BS!
Best how to video I’ve ever seen. Great job.
Killer tips Marshy! Keep these coming.
Holy shit! Thank you! Most comprehensive brake bleed I've ever seen! SUBSCRIBED!!
Tried this and it's an awesome tip. Thanks Marsh. MORE MORE MORE
I know it's an old video - but if I hadn't been steered towards it, I'd still be struggling with (and swearing at) the instructions in the Shimano bleed kit trying to sort the XT back brake on my Orbea. Worked perfectly - thank you :) Excellent.
Probably the best brake set up I’ve seen 👍
Been doing this a LONG time but i lost track at eleven new ideas that totally make sense. I'm sure that there were a few that i missed so i have to watch a few more times. Awesome and thank you!
I subscribed because of the tip rubbing the new brake pads together with water before installing them. It makes sense to me. Very nice! 😎👍
Best method period. I tried it and it purges air so well and no messing with syringes etc.
Just did it today after days of spongy brakes, Out today and the rear brake was good again, One thing i also did was with the caliper removed i pulled leaver and kissed the pads.
I'm so grateful for this video! I had some air trapped in the line & this method was way more efficient at getting bubbles out, probably because the fluid can flow out so much faster.
Great method! I’ve always wondered why bike brake bleeds are so fussy. Turns out they don’t have to be. I did this and it was so easy. First impressions are good, I’ll test on a ride this weekend.
Great video. Makes sense to not push garbage into the brake system.
Gonna try this one soon.
this is awsome, great results every time. thanks for the vid
This was so good. Please more!
I like it and now I will do my saints the same way defo impressed with how easy that was 👌🤟🔥🔥💯💯
Finally a tutorial for my shimano saint brakes!
Marshy, you sir are a legend!!
I’ll have to give this technique a try, thanks Marshy👍
This is the real deal. Did this on 3 bikes already. Always perfect on the first try. In total I think I've wasted more brakeoil per bleed with the conventional methods, because you don it over and over.
I'm about to try this. For some reason I can't get my head around the fluid flowing down out of the bleed funnel. Does it easily'drip' down the cable into caliper via gravity alone? I'm at the end of my tether with my regular syringe bleeds not eliminating wandering bite !
Yes it does. I've done it with Magura Royal Blood (quite similar to the Shimano stuff) and Putoline so far. Both worked like a charm on various brakes.
I've reread your post. Wandering bite point doesn't need to be due to a bad bleed. The fix is using Putoline (a much thinner mineral oil), which I've done for my Shimano levers.
His face at the end slayed me and now I am dead
also, this is a pretty good instructional on how to bleed a Shimano brake
Very helpful. Thanks for sharing!!
Please do more videos like this, very interesting approach.
The boiling point of mineral oil can vary significantly based on its specific composition, but it generally ranges from 300 to 400°C (572 to 752°F) at atmospheric pressure. When subjected to a vacuum, the boiling point of a substance decreases. For mineral oil, under a vacuum of around 1 mmHg (approximately 1 torr), the boiling point can be reduced to around 150 to 200°C (302 to 392°F).
It's important to note that the exact boiling point under vacuum conditions will depend on the specific type of mineral oil and the degree of vacuum applied. For precise applications, referring to detailed specifications or conducting empirical measurements under controlled conditions is recommended.
Just did this, best method ever!
Marshy, you are a legend :D
Oh my god, we need more!
This worked for me. Needed a second bleed & an additional gentle whack of the caliper with a spanner to encourage the last bubbles out. Seems to have sorted it though. Thank you 👍
Best bleed method, period.
Holy cow this was amazing, thanks!
I did this with my sram code R and it woerked like a charm ...😎thanks
Spot on mate, thanks for that 👍🏻
this was way more informative/creative/helpful than i thought it would be! nice one
Nice logical approach to a job others over complicate
Best method ever. Cheers!
Hey, we want more of these videos!
thankyou that was easy and works perfectly now
Hope we get more of this
Awesome details Marshy! Also, I want Luca's bike when he's done with it. ;)
Used this technique at the shop for the first time last week. Worked like a charm. A bit messy but, not as annoying as using the nipple.
More of these videos please!
Спасибо за отличный способ( thanks for this brilliant tips)
Just bled my brakes using this method. Super easy. I don’t have a funnel so I just used an _open_ syringe into the lever.
This is the wildest thing I've ever read on the internet.
great video , cheers!
Crocodile Dundee. Love your vids!
This method should also expel any water that's in there, as it will tend to sink below the oil. Very nice!
Excellent video. Super smart. Thank you!
I'll try this reverse bleeding technique next time. Nice video!
Yeah, I bleed any shimano brake from the caliper pushing the oil to the lever... Is very faster but many mechanics says is not the right way.
A few things, tho.
1. I'd say push pistons back in b4 bleed
2. Use Isoprop on the pads removes oils.
3 Line the caliper up first then put the pads back in.
I'll let him off as he looks like he had a 'large one' the previous night.
Do you have to put the lever in the more like far away position while doing this?
Thanks, that I will try!
Thanks a lot for this video, looking forward to other videos like this :)
And that ladies and gentlemen is what we call the KIWI WAY. When there is a will, there is a way !
awesome got a set of these to fit to my bike
Excellent video, than you very much for that. Ever have any trouble with the pistons not engaging evenly?
I do everything he does but with one extra step whereby put fresh pads in with caliper off pump brake till pads come together then close system. and prize pads apart and reinstall caliper for super close bight point.
More of this!
sweet tutorial. I think they call this a gravity bleed!
This renders all the expensive Shimano-Brake-Bleed-Kits obsolete!
Undoing the freestroke screw is so important on saints yet seldom shown.
I've come to this video looking to fix my wandering bite point on my Saints- and looking for some more detail on the screw- how is it actually used? Marshy unscrews it at the beginning but unless I missed it, doesn't mention it again at the end. Should it be screwed back down before the system is sealed? Or after? Does it actually offer any adjustment at this point, it certainly seemed to do nothing at any other time...
@@JimmyRed1234 He screwed it all the way back in at the end and then turned it back out a quarter turn.
Genial!!!
No need to touch the reach adjustment at all? I've seen some people recommend that you wind the reach all the way in as well as the free stroke all the way out?
Still it feels like the best my brakes have ever been after a bleed cheers!
professional !!!!!!!!!
I have seen 3 different types of bleeding, this is the 4th and functional.
Wow that looks easy, I think even I could do it
Marshy... thank you for finally making the proper Shimano brake bleed video!
Any reason why this method would be a bad idea to bleed a Magura MT5?
Trying this tomorrow, Ive been drawing with syringe from the caliper and still have air.
I’ll be damned this worked really well.
Could you make a tutorial on how to bleed a Shimano system with a drinking straw next?
I'm skeptical of that part about mineral oil boiling due to the vacuum. How hot does it need to be outside and at what altitude for that to be a real concern? Using suction to remove the bubbles from the caliper and lever gives me such good bleeds that I have to remove oil so that it's not too firm. Without the suction you can flick the lever forever and still have bubbles in there. I've had no trouble doing this at room temperature at mile-high altitude.
I think this is a brake bleed you do AFTER you've done with with suction and syringes, so you don't have to worry about that air being in there.
Looked into it out of curiosity I found that mineral oil boils at 657°F.
It's not going to boil at the level of vac you could pull with a syringe.
Reverse bleed... Interesting. That wasn't a confident smile at the end lol.
Can you use this method on TRP Trail / D-HR brakes?
Does this bleed method works for all brakes?
I once made the mistake of not cleaning the calliper let’s just say it made me a faster rider
and makes your brakes scream!
Oh well if it makes you fater
"We need to wind this screw out" Shakes camera violently and zooms out so you can't see whats going on.
Does this method work for front brakes as well?
I think yeah. And its easier.
Works so good on saints but oddly didn't work as well on my zees.
Thomas Wyatt no Free Stroke on the Zees 🤷🏼♀️
And what if at the last step when flicking the brake lever you continue to get little bubbles of air, which seem to stop, wait a minute, flick again and some more tiny bubbles?
Graptos keep flicking, they'll go away eventually.
Man.. altitude pressure having an effect on brake line pressure. I would never have thought about that. I wonder how much that effects a "normal" persons rig going from low altitude set up, to higher altitude bike parks. Im guessing not that much..? Maybe its more of an issue in reverse, if you set up in high altitude, then at lower altitude the brake line would be under pressue?
same with tire pressure dude. Even DURING a race run descending it my alternate depending on the outside conditions! after all this IS rocket science!!
I’ve used this method successfully once but last time I tried the oil wouldn’t drain out! I did everything exactly the same as Marshy. Any idea why?
Just had the same issue, its because you have to much air in your brake circuit. A medical syringe would fit exactly as the shimanos bucket but compare to the bucket you can use it to actually push the oil into the brake.
As Marshy said be carful to not create a vacuum using the syringe.
Good ride!
Just had the same issue, its because you have to much air in your brake circuit. A medical syringe would fit exactly as the shimanos bucket but compare to the bucket you can use it to actually push the oil into the brake.
As Marshy said be carful to not create a vacuum using the syringe.
Good ride!
FINALLY GRAVITY BLEED !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! just like in CARS !!!!!!!!!!!!!
There is still air coming out of the funnel when I “flick” the lever