An excellent explanation without Magic Special Volvo tools! Brake shoes always come with multiple springs of different lengths, and which have to be removed / replaced in a particular order and that is why I came to this video. I got the job done much quicker with your instructions than I would have by myself. Thank you for your assistance -you're my Right Hand Man - oops sorry I meant Right Hand Maam. OOPS I forgot to say one thing - whenever you have worked on brakes, before you set off anywhere do press the brake pedal several times. You have NEVER felt such acceleration as you do when you approach a road junction, press the brake and nothing happens!
+Steven Degli Angeli Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Great video! I was running through this procedure today, and I figured out a little trick that should make it easier to get the shoe springs out right the first time. If you look at 4:59 in your video th-cam.com/video/phO0arqqxRM/w-d-xo.html you can get a pretty good view of the spring. You'll notice that the coil of the spring comes out and then at the part where you grab it, it makes a sort of 90 degree bend to go back down through the center towards the hook. Well, it turns out that the springs all have the same design and that the hook on the inside end of the spring is always pointing in the opposite direction of the bend at the top of the spring. Looking at the spring at 4:59 in your video, if you imagine a clock face, the bend in the top of the spring is pointing outwards to 3 o'clock, and that means the hook at the bottom of the spring will be pointing outwards to 9 o'clock. Knowing this, you'll know that the hook is pointed left and is hooked around the left side of the slot, so you'd want to grab the spring, push in, and move the whole spring over to the right (towards 3 o'clock), which would position the hook directly inside the slot, and then pull the spring out. I tried using this method on the second set of shoes and got it right the first time on both the top and the bottom. I know this explanation is a bit wordy, but I hope it helps. I might make a video explaining it and post it on my own channel!
Thank you for this video. Just an FYI for people attempting this on brakes as old as mine (they were literally so old/rusted the pads disentigrated in my hands and had to be snapped off with the old rotor). Be VERY careful when prying out those dual purpose compression/tension springs that latch into the brake shield. Mine were so stuck and I got frustrated yanking on them, that the actual welded on clip to the brake shield snapped off, leaving me with nothing to cook the new spring onto. I had to get a whole new brake shield and it cost $40 and takes weeks to ship because no one stocks them. I didn't yank very hard, and those little metal holes are spot welded on with a tiny spot on both sides. They WILL seperate from the cover easily, and you will basically be shit out of luck. You could maybe try to JBweld them back but I wouldn't trust it because the way the brake system is designed in these cars could result in catastrophic failure of the CV joint if anything in the parking brake system comes loose while driving
One tip - the endings of springs holding brake shoes are bended in opposite directions. While lookiing from the side on spring they together create a letter S shape, easy to remember since Volvo are S60/S80. So you don't need to guess where is the hook.
Just did this. A tip, you can see the springs behind the hand brake shoes if you pull them so you can see how they arenoriented. Makes it so much easier to get them off.
Very useful video. Thanks. The only problem is the handrake cable. Shouldn't that be loosened at the handbrake lever (in the car)? With new shoes, you will probably have trouble getting the drum/disc over the new (thicker) brake shoes. Agter you will need to adjust the handbrake cable, as well, or is that automatically adjusted?
I have always used a large C-clamp to push the caliper in and have never had a problem pushing it in without cracking the bleeder screw open (and no harm to the ABS system). The only thing I have watched out for is if someone had filled the brake fluid reservoir when the pads were very low. I open the reservoir tank and watch to be sure it doesn’t over flow as I push the caliper piston in, siphoning off the excess fluid as needed. Being a closed system, I’m not sure what benefit there is to opening the bleeder… a negative result in my mind, since you may introduce air into the system by doing that and add time to your job by having to then bleed it. I am sure Sue or a member of 1A may have a reasonable explanation (that may change my backyard-mechanic practices!), but I have yet to experience an issue using my own method in which I leave the bleeder alone unless I am replacing the caliper (which she may have done in the process of this repair, but isn’t shown since this video is specific to the e-brake system).
I’ve used a C-clamp around the caliper to press back the piston a little so as to remove the caliper. Didn’t loosen the bleeder bolt. I heard ABS restricts pushing back the caliper piston, but I’ve not noticed that. Did I override it or mess with the ABS in doing that?
Do you have to release the parking brake cable? I imagine the rotor will not go on, unless the parking brake cable is released. Also, I could not find the link for the parking brake hardware and shoes at the site provided below. terrific video.
I love you Sue! Also love 1AAuto and your Volvo P2 videos! This has helped tremendously and gives me the confidence to do this brake job myself. Keep up with all the good instructional videos and I will surely be purchasing all the parts from 1AAuto! Thank you :-))
+Mechanics Getting Coffee Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
after she opened the bleeder valve and let the brake fluid cover the whole brake caliper, she didn't clean off the fluid. That was pouring on the brand new pad. She also touched the braking surface of the pad with dripping glove. Why didn't she sprayed off the excess brake fluid from the caliper before fitting everything together again?
why did you have to take the shoes off the caliper assembly?- couldn't the caliper be unbolted from the wheel assembly as a complete unit with the shoes, rattle spring intact?
if the lady left the retaining springs in until last and then removed them it would be SOoooo much easier. she fitted them first when she put the job back together, logic says they go on first then they come off last , but she took them off first.
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This lady has a lovely way of talking through the video. Very nice video to watch, very clear instructions.
+Steve Houlihan Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
An excellent explanation without Magic Special Volvo tools! Brake shoes always come with multiple springs of different lengths, and which have to be removed / replaced in a particular order and that is why I came to this video. I got the job done much quicker with your instructions than I would have by myself. Thank you for your assistance -you're my Right Hand Man - oops sorry I meant Right Hand Maam.
OOPS I forgot to say one thing - whenever you have worked on brakes, before you set off anywhere do press the brake pedal several times. You have NEVER felt such acceleration as you do when you approach a road junction, press the brake and nothing happens!
+Gas Gas Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
This is far the best video out there on how to change the handbreak, thank you
The best break job I have ever seen. She explained as she went along. The best.
+Steven Degli Angeli Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Great video. It makes me want to renew the rear braking assembly on my V70 now! I love the look of new rotors in the morning!
Your video is awesome. You cover everything so thoroughly, it is truly impressive.
I like this lady! Her way of explaining!
Very methodical , informative video, and very relaxing to watch
This was very well presented and extremely useful to me. Many thanks from the UK.
+1506pinkers Thanks for checking us out! 1aauto.com
Great video! I was running through this procedure today, and I figured out a little trick that should make it easier to get the shoe springs out right the first time. If you look at 4:59 in your video th-cam.com/video/phO0arqqxRM/w-d-xo.html you can get a pretty good view of the spring. You'll notice that the coil of the spring comes out and then at the part where you grab it, it makes a sort of 90 degree bend to go back down through the center towards the hook. Well, it turns out that the springs all have the same design and that the hook on the inside end of the spring is always pointing in the opposite direction of the bend at the top of the spring. Looking at the spring at 4:59 in your video, if you imagine a clock face, the bend in the top of the spring is pointing outwards to 3 o'clock, and that means the hook at the bottom of the spring will be pointing outwards to 9 o'clock. Knowing this, you'll know that the hook is pointed left and is hooked around the left side of the slot, so you'd want to grab the spring, push in, and move the whole spring over to the right (towards 3 o'clock), which would position the hook directly inside the slot, and then pull the spring out. I tried using this method on the second set of shoes and got it right the first time on both the top and the bottom. I know this explanation is a bit wordy, but I hope it helps. I might make a video explaining it and post it on my own channel!
That was great explanation, thank you Peter.
Thank you for this video. Just an FYI for people attempting this on brakes as old as mine (they were literally so old/rusted the pads disentigrated in my hands and had to be snapped off with the old rotor).
Be VERY careful when prying out those dual purpose compression/tension springs that latch into the brake shield. Mine were so stuck and I got frustrated yanking on them, that the actual welded on clip to the brake shield snapped off, leaving me with nothing to cook the new spring onto. I had to get a whole new brake shield and it cost $40 and takes weeks to ship because no one stocks them.
I didn't yank very hard, and those little metal holes are spot welded on with a tiny spot on both sides. They WILL seperate from the cover easily, and you will basically be shit out of luck. You could maybe try to JBweld them back but I wouldn't trust it because the way the brake system is designed in these cars could result in catastrophic failure of the CV joint if anything in the parking brake system comes loose while driving
One tip - the endings of springs holding brake shoes are bended in opposite directions. While lookiing from the side on spring they together create a letter S shape, easy to remember since Volvo are S60/S80. So you don't need to guess where is the hook.
Just did this. A tip, you can see the springs behind the hand brake shoes if you pull them so you can see how they arenoriented. Makes it so much easier to get them off.
+Erik Ny Thanks for checking us out!
Keep the P2 videos coming please!
Thank you very much! She was very calm and explained everything perfectly! 🙂
Very useful video. Thanks. The only problem is the handrake cable. Shouldn't that be loosened at the handbrake lever (in the car)? With new shoes, you will probably have trouble getting the drum/disc over the new (thicker) brake shoes. Agter you will need to adjust the handbrake cable, as well, or is that automatically adjusted?
what is the reason for opening the bleeder screws if car has ABS sensors? most likely the caliber will move down without opening bleeder screw?
To release a small amount of pressure from the piston to make it easier to get the caliper off.
I have always used a large C-clamp to push the caliper in and have never had a problem pushing it in without cracking the bleeder screw open (and no harm to the ABS system).
The only thing I have watched out for is if someone had filled the brake fluid reservoir when the pads were very low. I open the reservoir tank and watch to be sure it doesn’t over flow as I push the caliper piston in, siphoning off the excess fluid as needed.
Being a closed system, I’m not sure what benefit there is to opening the bleeder… a negative result in my mind, since you may introduce air into the system by doing that and add time to your job by having to then bleed it.
I am sure Sue or a member of 1A may have a reasonable explanation (that may change my backyard-mechanic practices!), but I have yet to experience an issue using my own method in which I leave the bleeder alone unless I am replacing the caliper (which she may have done in the process of this repair, but isn’t shown since this video is specific to the e-brake system).
I’ve used a C-clamp around the caliper to press back the piston a little so as to remove the caliper. Didn’t loosen the bleeder bolt. I heard ABS restricts pushing back the caliper piston, but I’ve not noticed that. Did I override it or mess with the ABS in doing that?
Do you have to release the parking brake cable? I imagine the rotor will not go on, unless the parking brake cable is released. Also, I could not find the link for the parking brake hardware and shoes at the site provided below. terrific video.
I love you Sue! Also love 1AAuto and your Volvo P2 videos! This has helped tremendously and gives me the confidence to do this brake job myself. Keep up with all the good instructional videos and I will surely be purchasing all the parts from 1AAuto! Thank you :-))
+Mechanics Getting Coffee Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
after she opened the bleeder valve and let the brake fluid cover the whole brake caliper, she didn't clean off the fluid. That was pouring on the brand new pad. She also touched the braking surface of the pad with dripping glove.
Why didn't she sprayed off the excess brake fluid from the caliper before fitting everything together again?
Is the handbrake self adjusting then?
I mene gnjavi ta ručna kočnica, lijeva slabije koči nego desna???
Thank`s Sue regards from Norway. :)
+Saab 9-5 Turbo Estate Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Should you losen the screw under the handbrake lever inside the car before doing this?
Yes. I did, I think that`s the way to go
CS did you ever geta reply? that was my question
thanks the way the hook goes into ...as you said
.you got to manipulate it!!
too dark now cos I gave up!
thanks!!
Great presentation…
how do you know when to replace the shoes? is there an inspection hole or something?
Thank you. Exactly what I needed to know
+jupiter moongauge Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
why did you have to take the shoes off the caliper assembly?- couldn't the caliper be unbolted from the wheel assembly as a complete unit with the shoes, rattle spring intact?
It's because she changed the brake pads at the same time. If you're only changing the handbrake shoes, then you can remove the caliper as a whole.
if the lady left the retaining springs in until last and then removed them it would be SOoooo much easier. she fitted them first when she put the job back together, logic says they go on first then they come off last , but she took them off first.
great video. but the bushings do not lubricate
Great video! 👍
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +Erik Ny
Keep up the good work! 👍
Hola, favor títulos en español, si no es molestía, gracias mil.
That wasn't too bad actually. I expected it to be way more scary.
Holy hell did I underestimate the difficulty of putting the new shoes on.
You are brilliant 😎
Are you single😍 😂
This is by far the worst handbrake i ever had, I don't understand how Volvo used this system
Potpuno se slažem!!!