As I always say it's not a failure or fuck up till it's in the skip . What you actually have is 2 methods of how not to do something. So it was in essence a good practice. I've found in the past it always helps to goof up something then you get the experience of what else is liable to be there waiting to trip you up . However it does make a good video to watch thanks for sharing . Hope you managed to sort out the correct sized tube and make a good collector.
Thanks for the input, yes this really was a valuable learning experience! And yes the manifold did finally get finished, but work on the rest of the car is still ongoing, so yet to see how well it works, or maybe Im in for another lesson! time will tell
Just a some advice on stainless welding for exhausts. Always use purge gas to prevent burning the weld on the inside of the pipe. If you don't back purge the welds will crack due to the high heat and heat/cold cycles. post downpipe its not mandatory but manifold and downpipe definitely needs it.
Thanks for the input. Yes I totally agree with you, in the later videos when I finally complete the manifold I show the back purge set up I use. So hopefully I shouldn't have any cracks or failures.
@@roadiesgarage3816- I'm surprised no one has answered, but here's some info for you. First, no, you don't need to back purge regular mild or carbon steel - there's nothing it will help with, where in stainless it keeps the metal from degrading. Stainless will oxidize our the elements in it that make it stainless if there's any oxygen near it at welding temperatures. Mild steel doesn't have those elements to precipitate out. That said, you wouldn't want to make a manifold like this out of mild steel - it would rust from the inside horribly and not last very long. If you used carbon steel you would want to anneal it after welding- carbon steel is able to be hardened ,and it will do so around any welds in it. That becomes the places where it cracks and breaks apart later, unless you fully stress relieve it. Hope this helps. 😀
I used 1.5inch sch10 pipe, I'm sorry I do not know the exact od and Id measurements, but the id was definitely bigger than 1.5inch because I remember wondering why they called it 1.5inch when it wasn't!
i make my jigs from timber, hold the pipe vertical. just sink a holesaw or two in to make a socket of the required merge angle. keeps the offcut contained as long as you set it up to not cut all the way through the timber... for anything outside a 4-1 collector... subtract the included angle of a regular polygon from 180. ie, 3 is 120 degrees, you rotate it 60 degrees. 5 is 72 degrees, rotate 108 degrees. 6 is 30 rotate 120... etc, etc. the hardest bit of stainless is firstly, getting started, then secondly... stopping every few seconds from then on... inch of bead, stop, cool, proceed... forget back purge gas when you come back. scream. throw hissy fit. go back to thinking and procrastinating. dip the tip. curse some more. give up. return to dreaming.
Thanks for the response. I have seen people use timber jigs since I made mine, I think I will give it a try if I make one again. And yes, I found making and welding things with stainless has a very steep learning curve!
Hi, I am in the UK so I don't know if it will be much help. But I got all of my exhaust tubing and bends online from a company called Profusion Exhausts.
@Fly Fishing Like A Pro - He's using pipe not tubing. Vibrantperformance, Siliconeintakes and Aceraceparts are popular online stores in the US for all your ss pipe needs.
hi, I did not use any of the tubes in this video in the final manifold. So I didnt waste time cleaning the burrs off. The bits I did weld together were just for practice.
As I always say it's not a failure or fuck up till it's in the skip . What you actually have is 2 methods of how not to do something. So it was in essence a good practice. I've found in the past it always helps to goof up something then you get the experience of what else is liable to be there waiting to trip you up . However it does make a good video to watch thanks for sharing . Hope you managed to sort out the correct sized tube and make a good collector.
Thanks for the input, yes this really was a valuable learning experience! And yes the manifold did finally get finished, but work on the rest of the car is still ongoing, so yet to see how well it works, or maybe Im in for another lesson! time will tell
Good on you for continuing to try until you get better. The only way to learn is by continuing to practice. Great work mate!
Thank you, yes at times it can feel like Im going backwards lol. But I am enjoying the learning process and picking up new skills along the way.
Great video, the only way to learn is to try make mistakes as well. and try again. Nicely done, love the jig
Thanks, i was jumping in at the deep end really, but enjoyed the process! Yes the jig took a bit of fettling, but not bad from a bit of scrap!
Parabéns pelo vídeo
Just a some advice on stainless welding for exhausts. Always use purge gas to prevent burning the weld on the inside of the pipe. If you don't back purge the welds will crack due to the high heat and heat/cold cycles. post downpipe its not mandatory but manifold and downpipe definitely needs it.
Thanks for the input. Yes I totally agree with you, in the later videos when I finally complete the manifold I show the back purge set up I use. So hopefully I shouldn't have any cracks or failures.
Does this also apply to carbon steel manifolds?
@@roadiesgarage3816- I'm surprised no one has answered, but here's some info for you. First, no, you don't need to back purge regular mild or carbon steel - there's nothing it will help with, where in stainless it keeps the metal from degrading. Stainless will oxidize our the elements in it that make it stainless if there's any oxygen near it at welding temperatures. Mild steel doesn't have those elements to precipitate out.
That said, you wouldn't want to make a manifold like this out of mild steel - it would rust from the inside horribly and not last very long. If you used carbon steel you would want to anneal it after welding- carbon steel is able to be hardened ,and it will do so around any welds in it. That becomes the places where it cracks and breaks apart later, unless you fully stress relieve it.
Hope this helps. 😀
Whats the diamiter of the individual manifold pipes id and od??
My guess 2inch I'd?
I used 1.5inch sch10 pipe, I'm sorry I do not know the exact od and Id measurements, but the id was definitely bigger than 1.5inch because I remember wondering why they called it 1.5inch when it wasn't!
i make my jigs from timber, hold the pipe vertical. just sink a holesaw or two in to make a socket of the required merge angle.
keeps the offcut contained as long as you set it up to not cut all the way through the timber...
for anything outside a 4-1 collector... subtract the included angle of a regular polygon from 180.
ie, 3 is 120 degrees, you rotate it 60 degrees. 5 is 72 degrees, rotate 108 degrees. 6 is 30 rotate 120... etc, etc.
the hardest bit of stainless is firstly, getting started, then secondly... stopping every few seconds from then on... inch of bead, stop, cool, proceed... forget back purge gas when you come back. scream. throw hissy fit. go back to thinking and procrastinating. dip the tip. curse some more. give up. return to dreaming.
Thanks for the response. I have seen people use timber jigs since I made mine, I think I will give it a try if I make one again.
And yes, I found making and welding things with stainless has a very steep learning curve!
I’d love to l kw where you found access to tubing like that? Though I’m in the states and you may not be? Thank you though!
Hi, I am in the UK so I don't know if it will be much help. But I got all of my exhaust tubing and bends online from a company called Profusion Exhausts.
@Fly Fishing Like A Pro - He's using pipe not tubing. Vibrantperformance, Siliconeintakes and Aceraceparts are popular online stores in the US for all your ss pipe needs.
What is the degree of the shear angle?
It was cut at about 15 degrees
@@BackGardenGarage i did it with 10 deg and it looks smoother
You need to de-burr tubes before assembly
hi, I did not use any of the tubes in this video in the final manifold. So I didnt waste time cleaning the burrs off. The bits I did weld together were just for practice.