ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ค. 2024
- I'm repairing and restoring a 1977/78 Sansui SC-1100 tape deck. Replacing the belts, recapping the boards and doing lots of cleaning and lubrication.
Sansui SC-1100 Service Manual:
elektrotanya.com/sansui_sc-11...
TIME STAMPS:
0:00 Introduction
3:48 A Look inside
6:26 Recapping the Power Supply
15:09 Power on Test
16:18 Cleaning the Mechanism
25:11 Replacing the Belts
30:12 Testing the Tape Transport Mechanism
31:52 Fixing the Rewind
35:23 Testing Audio Outputs
38:19 How the Mechanism Works
44:09 Replacing the burnt out Lamp
49:55 Recapping the Audio Board
56:40 Final Test Run
59:37 Thank you & good night
--------------------------------------------
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Thanks for watching!
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#JanBeta #Sansui #VintageHifi #VintageAudio #TapeDeck #Cassette #Capstan #Restoration #Repair #Belt #SC1100 #SansuiSC1100 - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Note on the poly caps: If you want to help them do their best, test them on an oscilloscope to see which leg is the outside foil. Mr. Carlson's lab has a video on it. Connecting that side to ground will shield the caps and provide just a tiny bit less interference. The downside to single sided boards is they don't have the massive flood ground planes like we're used to in multi-layer electronics boards today, so they don't get that passive shielding.
Ah, yes! I even remember watching that video but I forgot all about it. Thanks for the reminder!
This is awesome advice, dude. I've noted it in my restoration notes. Thanks.
At 33:10 - removing e-clips. Not easy, I use a very small strong (flat-head) screw driver to 'prize open' the spring and of course put a little 'Blu Tack' on the spring to stop it flying 1000 metres away! I am always aware that the said e-clip could find itself in the circuit and cause a short-circuit somehow, so if I lose one of these, I make sure I find it! :o)
Enjoying your video Jan!
Holding a strong magnet close to he clip during removal would also work. I doubt the clip was nonmagnetic.
Good restoration. A little contact cleaner on the REC switch is always a good idea as well.
It's always fun getting into a project, taking it apart, cleaning, repairing & replacing parts as needed, and then putting it all back together and seeing it working again, quite a satisfying feeling... :)
I always like the vintage hi fi restorations you do. Thanks for posting them
I like these video's tho !
14V lamps are even better to replace 12V. The lamp will last much longer and give a more golden glow. Perfect.
That woodgrain style electronics era stuff just looks so nice! ❤
Just like the Atari 2600 😉
Your work mate is very lucky person to find a beauty like this tape deck. Back in the day when they made things properly.
I was always fascinated by the engineering that went behind any tape deck. I used to ride my bike around in the late 80s and trash pick old boom boxes and fix them. 9 out of 10, it would be the belts just slipped off and people would chuck them 😂
Yeah, the belts are certainly the weakest link (quite literally). :D
Jan come sempre un buon lavoro.registratore di buona marca
See if you can pull the plastic cap on the rewind reel. If you can you should find a c clip you can remove to clean the axel it rides on. Also, clean the tire around the rewind reel. Typically the rewind will run faster when there is more tape on that reel.
Best of luck!
Tolle Arbeit wie immer. Bitte nicht mit Bastlervideos aufgeben. Ich lerne immer noch etwas davon!
I have a black version of this machine and recently after being at my mums for decades I brought it home, cleaned it up and fitted 4 new belts and had to resurface the pressure roller and use rubber renue as it use to chew tapes but ok now. Then the motor stopped so took those three screws out to move motor about and stripped it and cleaned pickups and now the deck plays back perfectly..Recorded some tracks onto TDK SA90 tape with Dolby on and this machine on playback sounds superb, not bad for a 1978 machine..great video by the way..👍
Great video! I was looking for a nice long tape deck restoration video to watch while sitting at home recovering from a bad cold. This was perfect.
I'll have to follow your suit on my channel soon, as I have an Akai and a TEAC deck to do. So thanks for the inspiration.
Glad I discovered your channel today. Subscribed.
This video inspired me to try restoring my Sony deck that I got for graduation in 2000. The belts were extremely gooey. Fortunately, replacements were readily available on Amazon.
Awesome! Most of the times, the decks only need the belts replaced indeed. Thankfully they are mostly still readily available (at least for the "better" models). :)
Nothing better than watching a retro hifi repair in the last hour of the year! Thanks!
I just pulled out my SC-1100G from the damp cellar that's been flooded a couple of times and it still powers up, but it goes into stop as soon as you press play, must have this looked into,there is one belt coonnecting the motor to the flywheel (probably wrong), there is some black goo on the wheels inside, probably the leftover from the original belt. It's different layout inside, the power unit has a different number - 4002444. THE G HAS THE SAME WOODEN CABINET BUT IT IS SMALLER THAN THE FACE PLATE WHILE ON THIS REGULAR ONE IT GOES OVER THE FACE PLATE.
Thank you for the thorough instructions, I may even try to fix it myself.
*High impedance input circuits:* It's is worth noting that if anyone ever replaces an OP Amp, (most) ICs, small signal transistors, that after cleaning the effected areas that we then apply some conformal coating. This is an insulating paste/liquid that will set and provide good insulation on the solder side of the board. It is very easy for stray electric fields around the circuit (and they do exist all the time) to drive small charges across components and upset the voltage-sensitive circuits.
Regards and Happy New Year!
I do enjoy watching these types of restoration videos. It takes me back in time when I would spend countless hours making mix tapes back in the early 80's to play on my Walkman. Thanks for sharing.....
I love seeing these old classics from the 1970';s restored, it's good to see them being kept in use and not being thrown away. Good restoration, thanks for uploading ;)
Happy new year jan !!!! Tks for another year
Happy 2024, Boca! Thanks for sticking around. :)
I have the matte-black metal-case version of this unit. The only part I have lost is the plastic cover, the same as you. It still works perfectly.
Your command of the English language is excellent! Yes, those mid-late 1970s decks are the most interesting for me. Good layout.
Very interesting design, i really like it.
The PCB layout is a real work of art especially when you take into account the capacitor polarity all facing the same direction.
Perfect entertainment for new years eve.
Best wishes in the new year.
That kind of attention to detail reminds me of something that happened while I was studying engineering: in the postgraduate laboratories, the emergency power switch was located right next to the lab telephone, so people were always accidentally hitting the switch with their elbows when answering the phone, causing everyone in the lab to lose work when their PCs shut down. Eventually, one of my friends got fed up with this & got one of the lab technicians to make a kind of frame to fit over the power switch so it could only be pressed straight-on. When the technician gave the finished part to him, my friend noticed that the guy had constructed it in such a clever way that the welds holding it together were invisible from the front. My friend protested that the technician needn’t have gone to such effort for what was a bit of a throwaway project & asked who’d know if the welds were there in any case. The technician looked at him and said, “_I’d_ know”. Now that was someone who took pride in their work!
@@KenKeenan1973 that's the way you should design something like that.😀
Done a decent amount of work for public places as a welder/fabricator and hiding fasteners and welds was always priority 1.
Especially in environments like labs or in the food industry it has a high priority.
These days I am a part time mechanic at a machine rental company and need to fab stuff on a regular basis.
I just take the time to design it so I can blend the welds and as little welds as possible are visible.
Also a small business owner with a cnc plasma cutting table making signs and stuff as a side hustle.
Great video! Acetone is a fairly strong ketone solvent and is great for some things but rubber doesn't like it. A better choice is a hydrocarbon solvent like naphtha or a plain old paint remover blend, they're weak solvents but are more similar to rubber chemically and dissolve in it more readily.
Happy new year, Jan!
Lovely restoration Jan and great spot with that last cap. Really enjoyed the video.
Big journey. Fun video Jan. Happy New Year!
Love these hifi videos bud, thank you
Those old stereo components from the hi-fi golden age are great to tinker with. Sound better than today’s blue tooth speakers and the mechanical tech involved is quite interesting.
"Where the belt meets the motor..." that would make a good love story.
I really enjoyed watching this. It's amazing how well made even "lower end" tapedecks were. Btw, they did have low ESR electrolytic caps back then and your tapedeck had a few. It's the yellowish/orange caps. I'm glad the tapedeck got the attention and service it deserved. Thank you!
Just in time - I've been watching restorations of Cassette decks and vintage amps on other channels for a few weeks. lol
"Mend It Mark" is a good one.
Happy New Year, Jan.
Lovely video. I also have to change some belts. Nice.
The second-best thing to having test tapes is simply to have a few high-quality, commercially pre-recorded tapes of music you're familiar with, and adjust the speed until the pitch is correct and the azimuth for the brightest, clearest sound (ideally with the left and right channels summed to mono, to get the most accurate adjustment).
I only have very few tapes left unfortunately, some commercial ones though, so that’s a good place to start I guess. Thanks for the tip! I also ordered some proper test tapes in the meantime so I hopefully can adjust everything accurately. Just have to figure out how to set things up (there’s some nice test software as far as I know, so I’m going to give that a shot). :)
Lovely deck!
From the times when manufacturers didn’t try to hide the cassettes from the view
Happy New Year 🎉🍀🍺👊🏻💥
That's quite a high-end cassette deck. You had to take your time to get it 100% -- well done! Happy New Year!
Ironically, it's the lowest-cost lowest-featured deck in Sansui's 1978 catalog. In market terms at the time, it would probably have been on the lowish-end of mid-range in terms of function. I suppose it's a comment on how low the quality of things are now in the early 21st century.
@@dennisp.2147 Yup. Sansui makes pretty good gear, even on their low-end, though. I guess i was taken in by all the features (Dolby, metal tape support, 1/4" mic inputs, and that waggity control panel for the tape deck...)
Sounds good😁
Back when I worked at an auto repair shop (early 80's) they used to call those e-clips (or c-clips) "Jesus clips", because of what you'd say when they flew off into some alternate dimension (probably in a pile right next to the pile of left gym socks).
Thank you from India
Oh, cool that you are watching from India! Hope the video is helpful. Greetings from northern Germany to you over there on the other side of the world! :D
@@JanBeta i bought it second hand. Same model. Rewind not working. And it had a damaged r/p switch. So replaced the rp switch with 5 dpdt relays. Now it works fine. But rewind problem is still unsolved.
Hm, the whole deck is honest and has a really clean layout. Even if it was a mid range or low range deck, it's worth salvaging. The missing plastic cover fits the deck really well. Even if it would be existent, I would keep it away. Looks much more special.
btw: you didn't have energy to disassemble the whole mechanism? I did it a week ago to my Sony KA-TC5ES. A lot of fun :-). A 5 layer mechanism. Like a puzzle with belts, screws and two huge flywheels, even on a non auto reverse deck (never seen that before).
Nice!!!
Tape decks are so cool. I should get one. Too bad i dont have any tapes.😂
Automotive vacuum tubing would be perfect to hold that bulb.
great content, thank you, and have a great 2024 Jan Beta.
What a gorgeous looking cassette deck; From a time when Sansui was a major player in Hi-Fi, and these things were built like tanks! Marvellous 🤩 I bet it's still capable of some excellent playback once the heads have had an azimuth check/alignment, so I look forward to the follow-up video... 😃 You could record to a good cassette some of the music that use during the video for the sped-up footage, so that you can then demonstrate the performance..... 😉
Thanks Jan; Please do continue the Hi-Fi videos... 👍
Thanks! Yes, it’s a magnificent tape deck! I planned on recording some of the music I am allowed to play back just to find that my other (slightly more modern) tape deck I wanted to use for recording had also just died. So more tape deck videos coming up sometime in the future. 😅
Mine fell from the eye level height shelf to the floor and continued to work normally.
I have used old VU meters as voltmeter by soldering a 100k resistor to it in series. Obviously, the value was arbitrary and i was basically playing with them, but if the right value is chosen, it can be a volt or amper meter.
And the resistor must be in parallel in amperemeter setup.
Hi Jan, very helpful. Your footage. My question would be: should a transistor replacement go alongside with the caps replacements? . My experience from reel-to-reel tape recorders are that this brings a additional reduction of hissing - I mean you made the efforts anyway so much , why passing this step?
I always find these videos infomative and entertaining :) Happy New Year!
A question, here maybe I can have an answer: how is it that audio equipment always set that the volume is normal in only the first few percent of the possible value? My old boomboxes and amplifiers were all working between 10-20 degrees on the dial, an old boombox had a volume slider, needed to just pick with the fingernails becouse the of 5cm length the first 4-5mmm were usable. After that it's way too loud in the room (not small, ~20m2) and/or distorted... Even the more modern TV with the digital volume control uses between 10-20 of the possible 100.
The question come up now for me, becouse I had an old ('90s) sony ampiflier, but only a mediaPC hooked up. Now I bought a real CD player, and again, only the first few degrees on the volume knob, after that my ears would pop 😅)
The volume potentiometers are usually logarithmic pots, so you get a more accurate setting in the lower parts and the higher you get the more exponential the volume increase gets.
I would not use low ESR caps, if not required, because they very often have a water based electrolyte (see datasheet). And that tends to dry out easier. Low ESR is usually only required in switch mode power supplies.
And since the modern electrolytic caps have a lower volume, it is good to invest in a higher voltage rating for a longer lifespan (that is, what I do in developments). I guess, the lifespan somehow is proportional to the amount of electrolyte and volume. Of course, the rubber sealing is another critical factor.
I think the Panasonic FC series caps I used are marketed as "low impedance" so they are not quite as low ESR as their other series (still lower than the original caps when they were new probably). Not sure what kind of electrolyte they use though. I‘m going to have to see if I can find any more conclusive data about them. Good point.
@@JanBeta the datasheet doesn’t say anything about the electrolyte. The ESR is „a little bit low ESR“. I guess, it os not water based. From the ESR, I would say, it is am ethylene glycol/borax based wet electrolyte. What the datasheet clearly shows, is that the endurance increases with the size of the capacitor.
And what we don’t know is, will the rubber sealing be good in 10 years, 20 years, etc. I didn’t see many leaking caps in the Commodore computers yet and I didn’t find many with a capacity, that is lower than specified, so the old sealing was quite ok. Nobody talks about the sealing of modern capacitors. In most applications, the capacitor doesn’t have to work hard, in switch mode power supplies, the electrolytics are galley slaves with a lot of ripple current. That is the thing, which really stresses a capacitor.
The search keyword you're looking for with the 12v bulb is "grain of wheat bulb"
I found the correct size by just looking for "miniature lamp", this form factor seems to be pretty common, available in 3mm and 4mm sizes mostly. I think they are often used for model making and such as well. :)
I've found the calibration tapes from Hanspeter Roth to be quite good. And I'm pretty sure he is in Germany
Yup, I just ordered those! They have a very good reputation around the hifi forums (plus, nobody else seems to make proper test tapes anymore). :D
Awesome vid! I have the same deck along with a Receiver and Phonograph, I bought a belt kit off of Amazon, I think the tension belt is a bit small in the kit. My current problem is when I hit play it engages the auto stop, but FF and RW work just fine, any suggestions? Honestly if you were local I'd have you do all the caps for me.
All idler and drive wheels and capstan/flywheel spin freely, the 2 main black take up spindles do have a tiny bit of drag when you manipulate one of the play, record or rewind buttons to let them spin free of the flywheel. I don’t know if its possible to remove them to lubricate
With no belts the motor starts then auto off gets triggered 😢
Auto stop is connected to the counter mechanism, so without any belt that is normal behavior. I haven't figured out the way to remove the covers from the spindles unfortunately, the service manual doesn't elaborate on that. If the auto stop is engaged too quickly, one very likely reason is also the capacitors on the little angled board that plugs into the main board. As far as I understand, the large cap on that is responsible for the delay for the stopping. It is charged up and then triggers the row of transistors on there which engages the stop. If that capacitor is faulty, the auto stop is going to engage no matter what else is happening, basically.
Well, removed belts again, pulled auto stop board, found no signs of bad caps or solder anywhere on all boards, put belts back on and reinstall auto stop board, now it plays 🎉🎉 Thank you!!
@swamprat2818 Oh, then possibly something was just stuck a tiny little bit. Glad you got it to work! May it continue to do so for a long time! 🤞
So many cassette decks are a nightmare to work on. And that belt gue!
I would guess the rewinder roller (idler) would probably originally had a small rubber tire around it? Most of the models I've seen from around that era had it. So it's probably not having enough traction now.
I think the little roller didn’t have a rubber ring, the other two parts that it touches do have rubber so it gets enough grip from those I suppose. At least I couldn’t see any remnants of rubber on it, it had a really clean plastic surface.
@@JanBeta I just checked the service manual (it is available for free download and it may help you with other problems) and it looks you are right, the rewind idler does not seem the have a rubber ring.
Hi there I've replaced all 4 belts on deck and it plays back perfectly most of the time but creases tapes occasionally and you can hear it doing it..would you suggest swapping the pinch roller and where is best to get one for this machine..thankyou..
41:07, all those diodes where the fuses are, is that a rectifier? I’ve never seen them perfectly in a straight line like that.
Yup, 8 diodes for 2 rectified DC rails as far as I understand the circuitry. The layout is hand drawn so it’s very clean and lined up a lot neater than many computer generated PCBs. :)
Pro tip: if you use WD-40 to clean up sticky stuff, clean that up with IPA to remove the oily residue.
Yes, I’ve seen people using WD40 in some videos. Definitely a good option. Acetone worked beautifully, too, though. Although it is a lot more aggressive if you accidentally get it on the wrong spot of course.
Nice sony crt monitor
Is it a pro monitor?
@43:55 - 'there was a lot of swearing...'. Ha ha .... join the club! ;o)
That looks like my Pioneer CT-F7272 Stereo Cassette Tape Deck Player
I guess all the big manufacturers took some "design clues" from each other at the time. There's suspiciously similar looking decks from the same era from Technics, too... ;)
I have a well used technics tape deck that has a quieter output on one channel. The same thing happened to a Sony Walkman I had. Cleaning the heads made no difference. Anyone know what causes this?
There can be quite a few things causing that. Maybe it's just dirt on the record/playback head or the head got slightly misaligned. On most proper cassette decks, there's also potentiometers on the board to adjust record and playback levels for both channels individually. You would have to look up a service manual for your particular model and see if you can find the adjustment procedure. Maybe that helps. Heads also wear out over the years but I've not seen that happen very often as long as they are reasonable quality.
@@JanBeta Thank you for the great advice.
I have Sansui SC-3 but still confused how to fixed..
Hi, do you still have this unit? I'm currently servicing one myself but having issues with the pinch roller. Do you think you could send me a picture of yours? I tried looking through the video but need a closer look to make sure its the same! If not, thank you anyway!
Sure thing. I have it set up in the living room currently. Send me an email (contact on my website janbeta.net) and I’ll mail you some pictures back asap. :)
Local hardware store should have small C clips you need.
Unfortunately there’s not too many hardware stores left around here that sell small parts like that. I’ll probably end up ordering an assortment online (might come in handy for other lost clips, too, I’m sure I’ll lose more of these darn things in the future).
I have a D90 that looks quite similar, but of course, cheaper. Pretty good quality overall, sadly lacking Metal recording.
Il tape selector non puo essere compatibile,la type 4 e' nata nel 1979
@@giuseppelavecchia775 Good point. Didn't think about that. I still like the D90!
A common colloquial name for those e-clips in English is "Jesus clips" because, inevitably, as soon as you try and take one off they shoot off at warp speed and disappear, prompting the technician to exclaim, "Jesus!"
Haha, sounds about right. I think I exclaimed something else, not really suitable for TH-cam, so I edited it out. 😅
Everything is better with wood grain!
🤣
Obviously!
first!
Indeed! 😅
|:-()
Those C clips are also known as Jesus Clips because when they fly across the room you will say "JESUS CHRIST!"
I don't care what it is, cassette tapes are garbage.
And yet, you still cared enough to comment. As a troll, you're sub-par.
You should watch Techmoan‘s video about cassette tapes. They are better than you don’t remember. ;)