@@XtreeM_FaiL when I got my first 10 MB hard disk connected to my Atari MultiIO adaptor Later on . I was sur I would never fill it in my life time. It was taken from a early 286 that had a failed power supply that blew the mother board. I horded every thing I could from it. Even the ram chips I desoldered all that I could
The design is surprisingly timeless indeed! They did an amazing job even on those (even then) slightly dated machines. Some of the most beautiful home computers ever made, in my opinion.
I'm not a subscriber, but all of the videos attempting to upgrade this Atari to 1MB came up as recommendations and watched them all. It's finally over. The Atari that refused to be upgraded finally is.
Thanks! I am super happy with the result myself. The only trouble is that I already have plans for more upgrades now that the machine finally accepted a RAM upgrade... It never ends! :D
I wonder how mind-blowing stuff like this would have been when these computers were shiny and new, such easy, and affordable, access to what were back then huge upgrades... :D
Yes! Back in the day, this would have been completely mind blowing. :D I think some peeps did massive RAM upgrades even back then, but not as sleek (and inexpensive) as what's possible with modern components obviously. :D
Yes, he does, I tried desoldering the GTIA in my 130XE and I messed something up. I only get a red screen now. I need to find someone to help fix it now.
I was actually surprised how easy that one came out. I usually have to use a bit of hot air from the top side of the PCB to remove the remaining solder. I guess I just got lucky with this Atari. :D
Thanks Bernardo! It turned out surprisingly well. I actually had the black spray paint at the ready in the background, didn't think it would come out that nicely. :D
I like your RetroBright box but I’ve stumbled upon a better solution. Use high concentrate H2O2 in liquid form. Put the part in a resealable plastic bag with enough liquid to fully cover. Place the bag in a water bath with a sous vide heater. The consistent heat from the sous vide warms the H2O2 and you get a very consistent result. Good video.
I've heard about that method, too. Never tried liquid peroxide for larger case parts though, but I am going to look into that. I found that heat and light both play a part in the process, you can use them separately or combined. Just changes how much energy you infuse and how quickly the bleaching happens. I like my box because it goes rather slowly and I have a lot of control.
@@JanBeta he's right. Did that a lot of times and had no issues. You simply had to submerge the case parts (make them heavier by putting something heavier under it, like big screews fixed with tape) and leave it for some hours in the sun (or artificial uv light). Sun is better, because of the slight heat. Nevertheless, the yellow will come back in some years. Only final sollution is to paint the case...
Always nice to see that keyboard in your videos ;) Definitely upgrade to FJC's firmware. I also like to shorten those ribbon cables to size when I do a U1MB upgrade, to keep things tidy with neat folds and nothing to hide under boards :)
The keyboard is magnificent! I am really really happy with it. Thanks again for giving me one. :D I didn't think about shortening the ribbon cables, seems like a great idea (and totally doable, even with my modest skills). Thanks for the inspiration!
I've done 1meg expension in the days of piggy banking over the initial ram chips and using multiplexer chips connected on the lines for the 3 and 4 joystick. That was a large act of faith for those days.
@@JanBeta Not much skills but more like trusting the information that was all text no image or photo like today. It was all for running atari Ocarina bbs all in ramdisk for speed and dropping the message database to disk when the user disconnected from the line.
I wish they would have thrown the sockets in the box for those who needed them, but now you need the Side3 cart to really unlock the Ultimate 1Mb Upgrade's power. That chip came out so easy for you, I had to desolder from both sides to get my rom out.
I am definitely going to get myself a SIDE cart eventually. :D Desoldering was surprisingly easy on this machine, I often need to use hot air from the top side of the PCB to get chips out, too. I probably just got lucky with this Atari. :)
You need one more mod. The Sophia2DVI. Great video mod, I can't believe how crisp the image is. I use an older LCDS panel for mine. It is a 19" 4:3 panel.
I would like to see a video of a Commodore 64 Reloaded Mk2, I saw your video of the evo, but i'm not that resourcefull and think the reloaded can be a litte more friendly and will be delightfull to know your opinion. I'm from Argentina, so if i make some mistakes sorry but english is not my native language. Thanks a lot and you rock!
Hey, your English is excellent (as far as I can tell as a non-native speaker myself)! I have an Mk2 here so I'm eventually going to make a video about it. It is indeed a lot easier on the wallet than the EVO and has nearly the same capabilities. It's not compatible with as many SID reproductions and it's not quite as easy to get it to output stereo but it has some other nice features (especially the ability to just upload Kernal ROMs via USB). I have a lot of projects on my list currently but there's definitely going to be a video about the Reloaded at some point. :)
@@JanBeta thanks to take your time to answer me, love your videos. Yesterday i was peeping on the ultimate 64 new project, there is a lot to revive this great computer that was a delightfull time on my chilhood, the mighty c64, hehe. Greetings from Rosario, ARgentina!
I did my A500 cover out in the sun with peroxide crean the other day. The result was amazing. A wee bit of marbling but I need to really look to see it. Also done my A4000 front but it's not quite where I'd like it. Though, from the almost brown orange that it was it's immensely better. Don't think it got quite hot enough to get a perfect result.
Retrobrighting still amazes me. Most of the times, you get at least better results than what the parts looked before. I found that you can also re-do it in case you get re-yellowing. I like to go slowly so I can prevent marbling, my results in the sun varied quite a bit so I've settled with my trusty box. It's slow but I get great results at least 95% of the time with it. :D
@@JanBeta I've thought about trying something similar to your approach but I honestly think buying a lamp like yours is overkill for the little I'm gonna use it. The sun here in Stockholm isn't all that strong but having the things out for 6-7 hours seems to be enough, just need to massage a bit now and then to minimize the marbling. I have my A4000 keyboard case out right now and it's 24 degrees in the shadow with no clouds. Looks good already after only 3 hours but it wasn't extremely yellow from the beginning. Gonna do the keys tomorrow.
I think that the AVG / SUB carts have rendered most of the internal memory upgrades irrelevant. At the same price of an U1MB (maybe lower) you get a cartridge with an SD lot, 1 to 4MB memory upgrade, RTC, almost 100% compatibility with ALL types of files(full ART support), a list of ROMs to choose from and in SUB's case a stereo pokey upgrade. All that without cracking the case open, just by using its 3 different dongles. Those carts are so goods for plain users that I've shelved my 65XE with the U1MB upgrade. Great video as always Jan!
The AVG Cart may be a good solution AS you can use IT AS a 512 kB memory Expansion plus SD Card File loader with a fast comoatibility of Formats on a machine without the u1mb or AS a Side Card with the u1mb machine....
Die u1mb ist schon seeehr mächtig, ich habe die schon seit einem Jahr in meinem 800xl und immer noch nicht alle Funktionen ausprobiert 😉 Mit dem Sidecard lädt die Maschine wirklich jedes Dateiformat, welches irgendwie für den Atari gedacht ist....
Fun project. I wonder what can you run that uses 1 Mb on this ? Also, in my experience there is no need for UV-light to retro bright. I think heat is the key element. I have retrobrighted with good result just putting plastics into the owen at 50 degrees for 4-5 hours and also outside in the sun.
In my experience, heat and light both play a part in retrobrighting. I tried the oven a while back, too, and it definitely took a lot longer to see results. Light & heat combined are just the right speed for my taste. Sun is a bit scarce here but I had varying results with that, sometimes the process went too quickly and I got marbling, on a slightly cloudy day it was very slow but the results were perfect. There are a few demos and such that make use of the extra RAM, also some new home-brew games and such. But not that much software uses the full 1MB as far as I'm aware. Doesn't hurt to have some headroom though, I guess! :D
Yup, it's the DecentXE replacement keyboard. I made a video about installing it a while back (linked in the video description). It's absolutely amazing, especially compared to the original mushy keyboard. :)
I would probably have routed those 4 colored cables to the underside of the board and soldered them to the socket rather than soldering them onto your 6502. Kind of defeats the purpose of the socket otherwise.
One comment on your soldering, try not to solder the socketed chip while beeing in the socket. especially chips that wer previously solderd in. You melt the solder thats on the pin and accedently solder the chip into the socket which makes the socketing useless because that chip will never leave the socket again. Also when beeing careful using good solder/flux let the solder flow into the socket (especially when gold plated) very easy.
Good call! I didn't think of that. Would have made sense to solder the wires to the bottom of the PCB, too. But I was too focused on keeping them short to take that into account, I guess. :D
@@JanBeta I had that happen to me a long time ago (30 odd years) with an mask rom that was marginal and developed a heat problem. I couldn’t get it out the socket any more to read out the contents and program an eprom. When I initially removed it from the board it seemed ok while reading it in an eprom programmer but the computer ran way faster and wouldn’t work after a few hours. This was a controller board of a CNC lathe built in approx. 1987-1990 can’t remember. The passive cooling of the chassis didn’t make good contact when assembled and mounted in the lathe. I had to order a new rom after the original were shot due to heat. That wasn’t cheap but better than a 600kg paperweight. Luckily the customer paid for the repair (and my silly mistake) and I learned a valuable lesson.
It should work very well on bathroom plastic parts, at least. :D Hydrogen peroxide is just bleach and commonly used for cleaning so it definitely is a good cleaner for some parts of bathrooms, I guess. I usually use more conventional cleaners though. ;)
Yes, that would be easier to work with. In fact, the example pictures on the website show the U1MB with angled connectors. No idea why it got changed for the production units. Maybe it doesn't fit as well in other Atari models?
There's some demos and newer home-brew games that make use of additional RAM. Not sure if there's much software that actually uses the full 1MB but it doesn't hurt to have some headroom, I guess. :D It also supposedly helps with managing larger filesystems and such, I just need a SIDE cart to try that stuff out.
Get a sticker made that says ultimate in a similar font and color to stick over the damaged part of the original atari badge it will cover the ugly and you'll know which atari is the modded one if done right i think it will be better then replaceing the badge.
Yup, I have several old CRT TVs that only have RF input so I usually don't remove the modulators if I don't have to. You would probably be surprised how crisp the image quality is using that ancient tech.
@danielktdoranie It’s a matter of taste and maybe nostalgia I guess. Using the old systems on modern monitors is fine but for the full old-school experience, CRTs are still magnificent.
@@JanBeta I thought that too, but the wires are almost touching the notch in the PCB so routing them down and under would very little length, if any. But since it is done, no need to obsess over it.
Hallo Jan. Hast du mal über Vapor Bright nachgedacht? Dabei kommst du ohne Folie aus. Auf die weisse kommt es nicht zu Streifen oder Marmorierung. 😉 th-cam.com/video/WXhxTtK42A8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=NVKkVdkYsPwpJ-s7 zum Beispiel
Ja, habe ich verfolgt. Ich war damals sogar recht regelmäßig mit Simon in Kontakt (der das als erster ausprobiert bzw. glaube ich sogar erfunden hat). Hab's selbst noch nicht ausprobiert, aber das mache ich bestimmt bei Gelegenheit mal. Ist allerdings nichts, was ich mal so eben über's Knie brechen will. Wasserstoff-Peroxid ist immerhin eine höchst reaktive Chemikalie und damit ist beim Hausgebrauch nicht zu spaßen. ;)
@@JanBeta It's like Werner says... "Ja ja..." 😄 You're a doing a very good job and you're a guide to a lot of people trying it then by themselfes. But a lot of them fail by using the cream peroxide. I did see many of that marbled cases on different machines. You did have luck - by now. But seriosly, that cream technique retrobrighting should stop... no offense.
Yeah, very little software to make use of that amount of extra RAM. Doesn't hurt to have some headroom though, I guess. And there's quite a few demos and newer homebrew games that at least make use of parts of the expanded RAM. :)
The good old days when 1Mbyte was more than we could ever envisage using!
Yeah, many simple text documents are larger files than that these days. 1MB is still massive for an 8-bit Atari today, though! 😉
And more than half a years savings for me.😂
8 million bits is insanity. How can you even use that amount? Are you try to store your brain into a computer?
@@XtreeM_FaiL when I got my first 10 MB hard disk connected to my Atari MultiIO adaptor Later on . I was sur I would never fill it in my life time. It was taken from a early 286 that had a failed power supply that blew the mother board. I horded every thing I could from it. Even the ram chips I desoldered all that I could
Ok, the socks are adorable!
Thanks! :D
Outstanding! Hallo from Australia. The industrial design of these machines is quite beautiful.
The design is surprisingly timeless indeed! They did an amazing job even on those (even then) slightly dated machines. Some of the most beautiful home computers ever made, in my opinion.
I'm not a subscriber, but all of the videos attempting to upgrade this Atari to 1MB came up as recommendations and watched them all. It's finally over. The Atari that refused to be upgraded finally is.
Thanks! I am super happy with the result myself. The only trouble is that I already have plans for more upgrades now that the machine finally accepted a RAM upgrade... It never ends! :D
@@JanBeta VBXE?
What a tremendous result. I am very pleased. Magnificent.
Thanks! I am really happy with the result myself. Now I only need to find a solution for the scratched case badge.
Never had one, but I love these the still modern look of these late Atari machines.
The design is beautiful indeed. Still holds up really well these days, especially after un-yellowing. :D
I wonder how mind-blowing stuff like this would have been when these computers were shiny and new, such easy, and affordable, access to what were back then huge upgrades... :D
Yes! Back in the day, this would have been completely mind blowing. :D I think some peeps did massive RAM upgrades even back then, but not as sleek (and inexpensive) as what's possible with modern components obviously. :D
I have very fond memories of my childhood 130XE.
They are wonderful machines!
27:16 That is so satisfying. It looks great, Jan.
I am really surprised that this poor thing turned out so nicely. I already had the black spray can at the ready, actually. :D
You make desoldering the OS chip look so easy. Far easier than my experience even on a 800XL. Show off! :)
Yes, he does, I tried desoldering the GTIA in my 130XE and I messed something up. I only get a red screen now. I need to find someone to help fix it now.
I was actually surprised how easy that one came out. I usually have to use a bit of hot air from the top side of the PCB to remove the remaining solder. I guess I just got lucky with this Atari. :D
Very satisfying to see the wonderful end-result. I remember how this machine looked in the beginning! What a difference. Top Job!
Thanks Bernardo! It turned out surprisingly well. I actually had the black spray paint at the ready in the background, didn't think it would come out that nicely. :D
I like your RetroBright box but I’ve stumbled upon a better solution. Use high concentrate H2O2 in liquid form. Put the part in a resealable plastic bag with enough liquid to fully cover. Place the bag in a water bath with a sous vide heater. The consistent heat from the sous vide warms the H2O2 and you get a very consistent result. Good video.
I've heard about that method, too. Never tried liquid peroxide for larger case parts though, but I am going to look into that. I found that heat and light both play a part in the process, you can use them separately or combined. Just changes how much energy you infuse and how quickly the bleaching happens. I like my box because it goes rather slowly and I have a lot of control.
@@JanBeta he's right. Did that a lot of times and had no issues. You simply had to submerge the case parts (make them heavier by putting something heavier under it, like big screews fixed with tape) and leave it for some hours in the sun (or artificial uv light). Sun is better, because of the slight heat. Nevertheless, the yellow will come back in some years. Only final sollution is to paint the case...
@@JanBeta The bags big enough to hold large parts are a pain to find. I like the method because the result is very consistent. No splotches!
Always nice to see that keyboard in your videos ;) Definitely upgrade to FJC's firmware. I also like to shorten those ribbon cables to size when I do a U1MB upgrade, to keep things tidy with neat folds and nothing to hide under boards :)
The keyboard is magnificent! I am really really happy with it. Thanks again for giving me one. :D I didn't think about shortening the ribbon cables, seems like a great idea (and totally doable, even with my modest skills). Thanks for the inspiration!
I've done 1meg expension in the days of piggy banking over the initial ram chips and using multiplexer chips connected on the lines for the 3 and 4 joystick. That was a large act of faith for those days.
Wow, that must have been quite the adventure back then. Especially considering RAM cost and the skills needed to pull that off! :D
@@JanBeta Not much skills but more like trusting the information that was all text no image or photo like today. It was all for running atari Ocarina bbs all in ramdisk for speed and dropping the message database to disk when the user disconnected from the line.
@@JanBeta And we could not put back the cover onto the computer as the ram chips were to high to fit.
I wish they would have thrown the sockets in the box for those who needed them, but now you need the Side3 cart to really unlock the Ultimate 1Mb Upgrade's power. That chip came out so easy for you, I had to desolder from both sides to get my rom out.
I am definitely going to get myself a SIDE cart eventually. :D Desoldering was surprisingly easy on this machine, I often need to use hot air from the top side of the PCB to get chips out, too. I probably just got lucky with this Atari. :)
Great video. Very instructive. I'm not an Atari guy but I enjoyed it.
Thank you! :)
You need one more mod. The Sophia2DVI. Great video mod, I can't believe how crisp the image is. I use an older LCDS panel for mine. It is a 19" 4:3 panel.
I have an U1MB and Sophia-2 in an 800XL. Awesome machine now. 🙂
Yes! I am following that project closely. I think I'm going to get one eventually. :D
The colour came back nicely. Just needs a 1024XE badge now.
1040XE, by my calculations
Or 1080 XE, maybe? :D
great job, you make it look easy!
Thanks! It was easier than I thought, to be fair. :D
I would like to see a video of a Commodore 64 Reloaded Mk2, I saw your video of the evo, but i'm not that resourcefull and think the reloaded can be a litte more friendly and will be delightfull to know your opinion. I'm from Argentina, so if i make some mistakes sorry but english is not my native language. Thanks a lot and you rock!
Hey, your English is excellent (as far as I can tell as a non-native speaker myself)! I have an Mk2 here so I'm eventually going to make a video about it. It is indeed a lot easier on the wallet than the EVO and has nearly the same capabilities. It's not compatible with as many SID reproductions and it's not quite as easy to get it to output stereo but it has some other nice features (especially the ability to just upload Kernal ROMs via USB). I have a lot of projects on my list currently but there's definitely going to be a video about the Reloaded at some point. :)
@@JanBeta thanks to take your time to answer me, love your videos. Yesterday i was peeping on the ultimate 64 new project, there is a lot to revive this great computer that was a delightfull time on my chilhood, the mighty c64, hehe. Greetings from Rosario, ARgentina!
I did my A500 cover out in the sun with peroxide crean the other day. The result was amazing. A wee bit of marbling but I need to really look to see it. Also done my A4000 front but it's not quite where I'd like it. Though, from the almost brown orange that it was it's immensely better. Don't think it got quite hot enough to get a perfect result.
Retrobrighting still amazes me. Most of the times, you get at least better results than what the parts looked before. I found that you can also re-do it in case you get re-yellowing. I like to go slowly so I can prevent marbling, my results in the sun varied quite a bit so I've settled with my trusty box. It's slow but I get great results at least 95% of the time with it. :D
@@JanBeta I've thought about trying something similar to your approach but I honestly think buying a lamp like yours is overkill for the little I'm gonna use it. The sun here in Stockholm isn't all that strong but having the things out for 6-7 hours seems to be enough, just need to massage a bit now and then to minimize the marbling. I have my A4000 keyboard case out right now and it's 24 degrees in the shadow with no clouds. Looks good already after only 3 hours but it wasn't extremely yellow from the beginning. Gonna do the keys tomorrow.
Good old days! I used to have a 130xe
Magnificent machines indeed! :D
I think that the AVG / SUB carts have rendered most of the internal memory upgrades irrelevant. At the same price of an U1MB (maybe lower) you get a cartridge with an SD lot, 1 to 4MB memory upgrade, RTC, almost 100% compatibility with ALL types of files(full ART support), a list of ROMs to choose from and in SUB's case a stereo pokey upgrade. All that without cracking the case open, just by using its 3 different dongles. Those carts are so goods for plain users that I've shelved my 65XE with the U1MB upgrade. Great video as always Jan!
Yes, the carts are awesome. I was considering getting one before I got sent the Ultimate 1MB. Maybe I'll still get one and use it with my 800XL. :)
The AVG Cart may be a good solution AS you can use IT AS a 512 kB memory Expansion plus SD Card File loader with a fast comoatibility of Formats on a machine without the u1mb or AS a Side Card with the u1mb machine....
Die u1mb ist schon seeehr mächtig, ich habe die schon seit einem Jahr in meinem 800xl und immer noch nicht alle Funktionen ausprobiert 😉 Mit dem Sidecard lädt die Maschine wirklich jedes Dateiformat, welches irgendwie für den Atari gedacht ist....
Ich brauche auf jeden fall bald eine Side card. Und ich muss die Firmware updaten. Die neue Version scheint ja deutlich mehr Funktionen zu haben. :D
Fun project. I wonder what can you run that uses 1 Mb on this ? Also, in my experience there is no need for UV-light to retro bright. I think heat is the key element. I have retrobrighted with good result just putting plastics into the owen at 50 degrees for 4-5 hours and also outside in the sun.
In my experience, heat and light both play a part in retrobrighting. I tried the oven a while back, too, and it definitely took a lot longer to see results. Light & heat combined are just the right speed for my taste. Sun is a bit scarce here but I had varying results with that, sometimes the process went too quickly and I got marbling, on a slightly cloudy day it was very slow but the results were perfect.
There are a few demos and such that make use of the extra RAM, also some new home-brew games and such. But not that much software uses the full 1MB as far as I'm aware. Doesn't hurt to have some headroom though, I guess! :D
Great Job!
The keys likes as new brand, is it ?
Yup, it's the DecentXE replacement keyboard. I made a video about installing it a while back (linked in the video description). It's absolutely amazing, especially compared to the original mushy keyboard. :)
Try FJC's firmware for the Ultimate 1MB...
He says in the video that there's a newer firmware and that he will upgrade to that at some point.
I am going to try that soon. Seems to have A LOT of added functionality and compatibility. :)
Awesome 🤩
I would probably have routed those 4 colored cables to the underside of the board and soldered them to the socket rather than soldering them onto your 6502. Kind of defeats the purpose of the socket otherwise.
Yup, that would have made sense. I was too focused on keeping them extra short, I guess. :D
Could you perhaps feed the wires through the slot space left next to the mounting screw and solder to the underside instead of directly to the cpu?
That would totally be possible!
One comment on your soldering, try not to solder the socketed chip while beeing in the socket. especially chips that wer previously solderd in. You melt the solder thats on the pin and accedently solder the chip into the socket which makes the socketing useless because that chip will never leave the socket again. Also when beeing careful using good solder/flux let the solder flow into the socket (especially when gold plated) very easy.
Good call! I didn't think of that. Would have made sense to solder the wires to the bottom of the PCB, too. But I was too focused on keeping them short to take that into account, I guess. :D
@@JanBeta I had that happen to me a long time ago (30 odd years) with an mask rom that was marginal and developed a heat problem. I couldn’t get it out the socket any more to read out the contents and program an eprom. When I initially removed it from the board it seemed ok while reading it in an eprom programmer but the computer ran way faster and wouldn’t work after a few hours. This was a controller board of a CNC lathe built in approx. 1987-1990 can’t remember. The passive cooling of the chassis didn’t make good contact when assembled and mounted in the lathe. I had to order a new rom after the original were shot due to heat. That wasn’t cheap but better than a 600kg paperweight. Luckily the customer paid for the repair (and my silly mistake) and I learned a valuable lesson.
Do You think that retrobryting a bathrooom would work? 😮
It should work very well on bathroom plastic parts, at least. :D Hydrogen peroxide is just bleach and commonly used for cleaning so it definitely is a good cleaner for some parts of bathrooms, I guess. I usually use more conventional cleaners though. ;)
Nice!!
Thanks! Turned out much nicer than I anticipated. :D
I wonder if mounting it connectors side down wouldn't be best.
Yes, that would be easier to work with. In fact, the example pictures on the website show the U1MB with angled connectors. No idea why it got changed for the production units. Maybe it doesn't fit as well in other Atari models?
The only thing left would be a Fujinet for this machine.
I already have one! Haven't done much with it yet but I will try it some more soon. :D
Is there software to utilize 1mb? That’s a lot for an 8-bit. I’m less familiar with the Atari ecosystem.
There's some demos and newer home-brew games that make use of additional RAM. Not sure if there's much software that actually uses the full 1MB but it doesn't hurt to have some headroom, I guess. :D It also supposedly helps with managing larger filesystems and such, I just need a SIDE cart to try that stuff out.
Get a sticker made that says ultimate in a similar font and color to stick over the damaged part of the original atari badge it will cover the ugly and you'll know which atari is the modded one if done right i think it will be better then replaceing the badge.
I was thinking about that, too. Maybe I can cover parts of the sticker and make it look nice. Not sure how yet but definitely worth considering. :)
@JanBeta as long as it has an authentic design font and style so it looks like something atari would have produced it should look good.
I like your socks, they are different.
Thanks! :D
Think you can get FUZIX onto this also?
Just reading up on it now, I didn’t know about it at all (shame on me). Looks super interesting! I’m going to have to try to run it. :)
NOICE!
It is! :D
How sleek would that look with an aluminum case :)
Oh, that would look awesome indeed!
@@JanBeta Brushed aluminium, for that added "Too cool for skool" look?
Why not just remove the RF modulator? Do you need really poor display for some reason?
Yup, I have several old CRT TVs that only have RF input so I usually don't remove the modulators if I don't have to. You would probably be surprised how crisp the image quality is using that ancient tech.
@@JanBeta I just don’t see a point when we have the OSSC
@danielktdoranie It’s a matter of taste and maybe nostalgia I guess. Using the old systems on modern monitors is fine but for the full old-school experience, CRTs are still magnificent.
@@JanBeta I understand. Do what thou whilst my man
So its now a 1040 XE ? 🙂
Or a 1080 XE, maybe! :D
Wouldn't it have been easier and cleaner to solder the 4 wires to the backside of the board?
That works, too, of course! I just went with soldering directly to the chip to keep the wires short and easier to route.
@@JanBeta I thought that too, but the wires are almost touching the notch in the PCB so routing them down and under would very little length, if any.
But since it is done, no need to obsess over it.
Nice socks 😁
Thanks! :D
AVGCART = 1MB RAM 👍
Yup, I actually considered getting one of those carts before I got sent the U1MB. I might still get one eventually to use it with my 800XL. :D
Hallo Jan. Hast du mal über Vapor Bright nachgedacht? Dabei kommst du ohne Folie aus. Auf die weisse kommt es nicht zu Streifen oder Marmorierung. 😉 th-cam.com/video/WXhxTtK42A8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=NVKkVdkYsPwpJ-s7 zum Beispiel
Ja, habe ich verfolgt. Ich war damals sogar recht regelmäßig mit Simon in Kontakt (der das als erster ausprobiert bzw. glaube ich sogar erfunden hat). Hab's selbst noch nicht ausprobiert, aber das mache ich bestimmt bei Gelegenheit mal. Ist allerdings nichts, was ich mal so eben über's Knie brechen will. Wasserstoff-Peroxid ist immerhin eine höchst reaktive Chemikalie und damit ist beim Hausgebrauch nicht zu spaßen. ;)
Ja da hast du recht, die Vorsicht sollte man nie außer Acht lassen 👍
Again... No cream, no marble effect. Just use fluid peroxide... 😕
I know, I know. The cream worked again, though. ;)
@@JanBeta It's like Werner says... "Ja ja..." 😄
You're a doing a very good job and you're a guide to a lot of people trying it then by themselfes. But a lot of them fail by using the cream peroxide. I did see many of that marbled cases on different machines. You did have luck - by now. But seriosly, that cream technique retrobrighting should stop... no offense.
i dont think u will use 512k
Yeah, very little software to make use of that amount of extra RAM. Doesn't hurt to have some headroom though, I guess. And there's quite a few demos and newer homebrew games that at least make use of parts of the expanded RAM. :)